Re: [foldingboats] Keelstrips on PVC hull material
"Paul Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > You should treat the keel stripping as sacrificial. Do not use pvc cement. > This will permanently bond the pvc, and you will never get it off without > serious damage to the original hull material. I suspect the same for two I have no experience with two part cement. The pvc-glue I use is a one part cement, that holds on very well (ripping of a glued piece of pvc will damage the surfaces badly). But: It is not heat resistant. While heating the glued pvc to about 100 to 150 dgr. Celsius with an hot-air-gun the patches (or keelstripes) will come off easily. > I haven't tried gluing pvc with rubber cement, so try > it first. Sorry, but this will not work for pvc well (although it sticks together to some extend). -- Rainer Schroeter, Marburg (Lahn), Germany # Foldingboats Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside Foldingboats or Foldingboats archives without author's permission Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscriptions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] #
Re: [foldingboats] Keelstrips on PVC hull material
OOps, I deleted the original question. If you are looking to glue on keel strips, my used Klepper came with a keel stripping kit from the Klepper Service Center. It comes with long strips of stripping (hypalon, in my case) and a big can of rubber cement, so that it can be peeled off in the future. You should treat the keel stripping as sacrificial. Do not use pvc cement. This will permanently bond the pvc, and you will never get it off without serious damage to the original hull material. I suspect the same for two part contact cement. I haven't tried gluing pvc with rubber cement, so try it first. The directions went like this. Assemble boat. Outline keelstips on hull. Sand past outline by 1/4 inch with 60 grit paper, and wipe with white gas. (whatever that is, I skipped that) Brush on rubber cement and allow to become tacky (About 25 minutes). Apply a second coat, and let it start to tack up. Roll on keel stripping, do not lift up after it has come in contact with rubber cemnt. Use a spoon to roll press down on strip. Let dry for two to three days. I didn't do the whole keel, only the back two feet where some brasion had occurred. Hope this helps. Paul _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com # Foldingboats Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside Foldingboats or Foldingboats archives without author's permission Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscriptions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] #
Re: [foldingboats] Keelstrips on PVC hull material
Erik, We can obtain grey PVC of suitable composition for the keelstrips for your particular boat. My 1968 model has not needed any in all this time though and I'm just a touch cavalier about my apprach to PVC skins (light, tough and cheap enough for me not to worry -- I have little patience for that Hype-a-Lot stuff ;-). To effect a glued patch (or keelstrip) even the hard PVC two-part gluing system used by plumbers for PVC piping will probably work (I've used it for patching wth no trouble) ... just use a whole lot more solvent than glue because the latter is likely to get very hard and possibly brittle with age. The solvent will give you a good shot at producing a "chemical weld" with the addition of only very little glue, but you have to work FAST (i.e. in small increments; two-man job). However, if you are treating the keel strips as sacrifical elements (which you might wish to think about), consider using contact cement to give youself a chance to remove them if they get too mangled (if they are not intended to get mangled, why go to the trouble in the first place?). Then there is the possibility of welding. I have never welded a full strip (the factory does that with hot air guns). I have rewelded strips and attached patches and strong points (to which to fasten things) to the skin with a flattened soldering iron tip: Place the tip between the patch and the skin with slight sideways pressure, pull the trigger. Keep moving as soon as the heat melts the PVC sufficiently to slide the iron along and then move it fast enough to avoid any smoke developing. DO NOT BREATHE THE FUMES!! A bit of practice on scraps will soon see you into the higher realms of expert workmanship!! ;-) Best regards, Ralph # Foldingboats Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside Foldingboats or Foldingboats archives without author's permission Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscriptions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] #
