Re: Safari

2010-05-13 Thread Peter
Webkit is good, even after 12 hours being open :-)

PID COMMAND  %CPU   TIME   #TH #PRTS #MREGS RPRVT  RSHRD  RSIZE  VSIZE
  687 top  4.0%  0:01.25   118 28  440K   200K
 1032K18M
  675 bash   0.0%  0:00.01   114 19  280K   196K  1004K
   18M
  674 login   0.0%  0:00.10   117 49  296K   200K  1056K
   19M
  673 Terminal   19.0%  0:04.05   399+   167 2752K+   16M+ 8472K+
 227M+
  343 Safari 0.0%  9:56.76  10   251823   44M+   30M-   84M
  361M
  238 AppleSpell  0.0%  0:03.14   123 30  612K  6028K  4496K
 34M
  120 WeatherBug0.0%  0:26.59   5   169143 7356K11M11M
216M
  119 Google Not  0.2%  0:10.46   6   177+   179 7624K14M13M
222M
  104 Finder 0.0%  0:28.41   7   160210 4244K24M20M
  243M
  103 SystemUISe   0.0%  0:05.40   6   214207 2916K13M  7840K
215M
  102 coreaudiod  0.0%  0:00.33   2   105 49  984K  1436K  2564K
 20M
  101 ATSServer  0.1%  0:05.25   289106 1136K  4712K  3916K+
55M
  100 Dock  0.1%  0:02.80   2   111197 3780K+   17M  9392K+
 223M


Peter M.

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quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-13 Thread James Morgan
	Don't do anything drastic to your quicksilver yet. I have two MDD  
G4's and both of them are cranky when it comes to starting up. One of  
them shows the same symptoms you describe (push the button, a light  
shows, flickers and dies) anytime it has been improperly disconnected  
from the power source. But if I give it some time and keep trying, it  
starts up again. And after that, if it is shut down properly, it will  
start properly.


	So, as a start, try this. Wait a few hours. Push the button.   Wait  
some more. Push the button. Eventually it will start. Mine does.


	My other MDD G4, even when shut down properly, must be disconnected  
from the power supply (I just turn off the battery backup and then  
turn it back on again) before it will start up.



=


On May 12, 9:13 pm, ll mlitwin3...@att.net wrote:

 We  lost power yesterday. My quicksilver has been on a really
good surge protector for two years. It wasn't enough this time
however. If I push the on button,a light shows,flickers and dies.  
The
machine never turns on. I am assuming my hardrive is fried.Am I  
right
in assuming that I would have to replace the harddrive  and re- 
install
the os? The problem is thta It had Leopard on it. The cost of the  
new

harddrive ,paying someone to install it and buying Leopard would be
more than the $65 I oroginally paid for the computer.
 The question is ,am I right in having to relace the  
harddrive? It

might be worth it if that is all that is necessary.It is a 1 gig
computer and has a 933 processor.Would I have to do more?

--


James K Morgan



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Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-13 Thread Bruce Johnson

On May 12, 2010, at 7:13 PM, ll wrote:

 We  lost power yesterday. My quicksilver has been on a really
 good surge protector for two years. It wasn't enough this time
 however. If I push the on button,a light shows,flickers and dies. The
 machine never turns on. I am assuming my hardrive is fried.

Nope. This is a power supply issue, and seems to be pretty common with 
Quicksilvers. A new replacement ps is about $230 or so, we replaced on in a 
professors system not too long ago. 

You could try to find another QS or later Mac and drop your hdd into it; more 
than likely your drive (and the rest of the system) is just fine, or look for a 
replacement PS on fleabay or such.



-- 
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs


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Re: Ubuntu, G3, XPostFacto

2010-05-13 Thread Bruce Johnson

On May 12, 2010, at 11:26 AM, TVirkkala wrote:

 
 I don't really know if the optical drive is even working properly, at this 
 point. No evidence for it.
 
 Any ideas? (I forget, can one boot OS X from a Firewire optical drive?)
 

It does sound as if the Optical drive is foo.

 I suppose I could call FreeGeek.com Hate to bother people who do such 
 good work recycling computers, though.

Im sure they have drives laying about to swap you; hell a brand new drive 
won't cost more than $20 or so...

Here's a DVD+/- R/RW DL drive for $28

http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=BLK-SH-S222-DOcat=DVD


-- 
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs


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I need advice on esata external

2010-05-13 Thread Baha Ata
I got a powerbook and macbook pro... I have been using 2.5 inch
external e-sata discs with express and pcmcia cards... My home folders
on external e-sata discs while my system remain on internal discs.

10.5 and 10.6 i have been using...

I use them for mobility and become faster and bigger storage...

What you recommend or think on my usage...

Lately i am thinking on put 2 fast and big HD on my 3.5 inch esata
cases... and replica with my 2.5 inch mobile devices... For faster
speed but no moblity... How can i make it happen? Any replication
software exist for this kind of home folder replication in bettween
discs?

Thanks.

-- 
Baha Ata

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Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-13 Thread lana
 I'm a bit of a newbie. Is power supply a mother board?




From: Nikki Wraith nikkiwra...@gmail.com
To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com g3-5-list@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wed, May 12, 2010 10:18:53 PM
Subject: Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

More likely to be the power supply. Other parts may be affected, but the PS is 
the mostly dead part.

Mikeal Palulis
Kallisti Medias

On May 12, 2010, at 10:17 PM, ll mlitwin3...@att.net wrote:

 I meant that it had 1.3  gig ram.
 
 On May 12, 9:13 pm, ll mlitwin3...@att.net wrote:
  We  lost power yesterday. My quicksilver has been on a really
 good surge protector for two years. It wasn't enough this time
 however. If I push the on button,a light shows,flickers and dies. The
 machine never turns on. I am assuming my hardrive is fried.Am I right
 in assuming that I would have to replace the harddrive  and re-install
 the os? The problem is thta It had Leopard on it. The cost of the new
 harddrive ,paying someone to install it and buying Leopard would be
 more than the $65 I oroginally paid for the computer.
  The question is ,am I right in having to relace the harddrive? It
 might be worth it if that is all that is necessary.It is a 1 gig
 computer and has a 933 processor.Would I have to do more?
 
 --
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 Macs.
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 --You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for 
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 Macs.
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Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-13 Thread lana
 I am a newbie . What description should I be looking for  the power 
supply. I see some on ebay but the descriptions are confusing and I'd rather 
not buy the wrong one.
I have a guy who will do cheap labor for me on fixing computers if I buy the 
parts.  




From: Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu
To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, May 13, 2010 11:23:06 AM
Subject: Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss


On May 12, 2010, at 7:13 PM, ll wrote:

 We  lost power yesterday. My quicksilver has been on a really
 good surge protector for two years. It wasn't enough this time
 however. If I push the on button,a light shows,flickers and dies. The
 machine never turns on. I am assuming my hardrive is fried.

Nope. This is a power supply issue, and seems to be pretty common with 
Quicksilvers. A new replacement ps is about $230 or so, we replaced on in a 
professors system not too long ago. 

You could try to find another QS or later Mac and drop your hdd into it; more 
than likely your drive (and the rest of the system) is just fine, or look for a 
replacement PS on fleabay or such.



-- 
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs


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Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-13 Thread Bruce Johnson

On May 13, 2010, at 9:43 AM, lana wrote:

 I am a newbie . What description should I be looking for  the power 
 supply. I see some on ebay but the descriptions are confusing and I'd rather 
 not buy the wrong one.
 I have a guy who will do cheap labor for me on fixing computers if I buy the 
 parts.  
 


Here's a start:

http://tinyurl.com/37xjz7q

The replacement is a 5-minute job.

-- 
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs


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Re: Flashing PCI cards if you do NOT have a PC

2010-05-13 Thread dc
On May 12, 9:32 pm, deadwinter thecar...@gmail.com wrote:
 Does anyone know if you can
 flash ATI cards if you ONLY have, say, a G4 or G3 desktop with PCI
 slots, and no access to a PC?

Try looking here:
http://thomas.perrier.name/graphiccelerator.html

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Flashing PCI cards if you do NOT have a PC

2010-05-13 Thread tsaec...@att.net
This may be a dumb question but can one flash an AGP card  if you do  
NOT have a PC?


Cause I'd love to upgrade this QS and $$$ is an issue.

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Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-13 Thread geno.y
On May 13, 10:03 am, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu
wrote:
 On May 13, 2010, at 9:43 AM, lana wrote:

      I am a newbie . What description should I be looking for  the power 
  supply. I see some on ebay but the descriptions are confusing and I'd 
  rather not buy the wrong one.
  I have a guy who will do cheap labor for me on fixing computers if I buy 
  the parts.  

 Here's a start:

 http://tinyurl.com/37xjz7q

 The replacement is a 5-minute job.


Isn’t there anybody (company) that makes an adaptor so you can use a
regular PC power supply? I know I purchased a few years ago for my
Gigabit Ethernet G4s and they work fine.

I purchased a regular ATX 20 (24) pin ps.

I know the pinout is different for a QS, but I would think the
principle is the same.

geno

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USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Stephen Conrad
For the longest time I ran my digital camera off the left-hand USB pot on my
KB (mouse runs off the other one)
Today when I plugged the camera into the cord (which I leave plugged in) I
got a Low Power Warning.
Why is this? What could have changed?

-- 
Steve Conrad
Henrietta, MO 64036

The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle behind; to go
forth and claim our place in outer space.
  - Capt. Henry Gloval


(\__/)
(='.'=)
()_()
Help Bunny Take Over The World!

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Re: I need advice on esata external

2010-05-13 Thread iJohn
I'm not sure exactly what you're asking, so apologies for posting some
thoughts  questions which many not be helpful.

On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Baha Ata baha...@gmail.com wrote:
 I got a powerbook and macbook pro... I have been using 2.5 inch
 external e-sata discs with express and pcmcia cards... My home folders
 on external e-sata discs while my system remain on internal discs.

This is just a tedious point of English usage. In my experience it's
much more common to use disc or disk with talking about optical
media such as DVDs or CDs. In this case you appear to be talking about
storing to 2.5 and/or 3.5 hard drives, not about optical discs.
Sometimes folks will refer to a hard drive as a disk, but the term
hard drive is IMO much clearer. Just a FWIW for possible future use.

 What you recommend or think on my usage...

Huh? To repeat myself, I am not sure what you are asking about here.

It sounds like you already have an eSATA external enclosure and SATA
drives which you successfully use with it. So what sort of information
were you hoping to get from the members of this list?

 Lately i am thinking on put 2 fast and big HD on my 3.5 inch esata
 cases... and replica with my 2.5 inch mobile devices... For faster
 speed but no mobility.

You would want to get drives with the newest tech ... by which I mean
using disk platters with the highest bit density ... for the best
performance. What size drives you go with is a separate question which
would depend on other factors such as how you intended to use the
larger drives. Whether or not to use 7200 or 5400 RPM depends more on
the performance of your eSATA adapters and the systems themselves.

7200 RPM will be somewhat faster. Whether or not it will be SO MUCH
faster that you notice a difference between them ... especially with
the older tech in the powerbook ... is a question I cannot answer.
There are other factors beyond the performance of the hard disk
itself. How fast is the memory (RAM) bandwidth? How much of the
theoretically available SATA bandwidth can the PCMCIA/Express card
adapter use?

If it were me, before doing anything else I'd try pulling the SATA
drive from the MacBook and booting it via eSATA. That would give you a
rough idea of what the experience might be like. I'm frankly not sure
you'd see a performance increase which was big enough to justify the
hassle of messing around with the external drives. (On the other hand,
if you just want to play around for the fun of it, then that's a
different matter, no? ;-)

 How can i make it happen? Any replication software exist
 for this kind of home folder replication in between discs?

Every other time I remember this question coming up someone
immediately jumps in to recommend the free version of CCC (Carbon Copy
Cloner). I suppose such loyalty is a good recommendation in and of
itself. I googled that phrase and here's (I think) a link to its web
site.
http://www.bombich.com/

While you can certainly use the free version) CCC, you don't need too.
You can use Apple's Disk Utility in both Leopard (OS X 10.5) or Snow
Leopard (OS X 10.6) to clone/copy a partition to another drive. When I
installed a larger hard drive on my MacBook this is how I migrated my
existing Leopard installation from the old to the new disk. I booted
form the old drive and then used the Restore function in Disk
Utility with the old drive as the source and the new drive as the
destination. Then I booted the from the new drive to verify it hard
worked.

Worked great and I didn't have to bother with installing any other
software. My personal opinion is that CCC appears to make more sense
if you intend to create and then continue to update a (bootable ??)
backup image of your drives rather than for doing a one-time copy of
your image to another drive.

-irrational john

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Re: USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Kris Tilford

On May 13, 2010, at 2:19 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:

Today when I plugged the camera into the cord (which I leave plugged  
in) I got a Low Power Warning.



Why is this?


Most cameras not only transfer data but also recharge the battery via  
USB.



What could have changed?


The battery is lower on charge, and is drawing more amperage than  
before. The limit is 500mA total per USB port unless you have an  
external USB hub with its own power supply. I've seen this message  
before using a USB memory stick to a keyboard port. Since the USB  
memory stick doesn't draw significant power, this might be an error  
specific to keyboard ports that you can safely ignore, at least that's  
what I did.


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Re: USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Damian
Try using a USB extension cable connected to one of your USB ports  
instead of the keyboard USB port.

On May 13, 2010, at 9:19 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:

For the longest time I ran my digital camera off the left-hand USB  
pot on my KB (mouse runs off the other one)
Today when I plugged the camera into the cord (which I leave  
plugged in) I got a Low Power Warning.

Why is this? What could have changed?

--
Steve Conrad
Henrietta, MO 64036

The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle  
behind; to go forth and claim our place in outer space.

  - Capt. Henry Gloval


(\__/)
(='.'=)
()_()
Help Bunny Take Over The World!

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Re: I need advice on esata external

2010-05-13 Thread iJohn
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Baha Ata baha...@gmail.com wrote:
 Lately i am thinking on put 2 fast and big HD on my 3.5 inch esata
 cases... and replica with my 2.5 inch mobile devices.

By the way, a question you did NOT ask but which I personally would
wonder about is whether it would be possible to create two (GUID)
partitions on a single large eSATA attached hard drive and copy/clone
the OS X 10.5 from your powerbook to one and 10.6 from your MacBook
Pro to the other partition and boot from either one depending on which
system you were using.

I think the answer to this question is no because I do not think a
powerbook could boot from a GUID partitioned hard drive. But I'm not
100% sure so I thought I'd bring it up to see what the others had to
say.

-irrational john

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Re: I need advice on esata external

2010-05-13 Thread Kris Tilford

On May 13, 2010, at 2:32 PM, iJohn wrote:

In my experience it's much more common to use disc or disk with  
talking about optical media such as DVDs or CDs.


In my experience the correct nomenclature is that an optical drive has  
a removable disc with a c, and a hard drive is a non-removable disk  
with a k. The distinction is whether or not the device is removable  
in which case a c is used, such as in floppy disc, CD disc, DVD  
disc, Blu-ray disc; or is fixed into the hardware of the computer,  
such as hard drive disk, laptop disk, RAM disk, external disk drive. A  
C is circular like a CD disc, and a K is roughly square like a HD  
disk.


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Re: I need advice on esata external

2010-05-13 Thread Kris Tilford

On May 13, 2010, at 2:40 PM, iJohn wrote:


I think the answer to this question is no because I do not think a
powerbook could boot from a GUID partitioned hard drive. But I'm not
100% sure so I thought I'd bring it up to see what the others had to
say.


PPC Macs can boot Leopard 10.5 from a GUID partition format.
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=376686

Alternatively, external HDs formatted Apple partition format can boot  
Intel Macs, even in Snow Leopard.

http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20091026115700604
http://everythingapple.blogspot.com/2007/11/use-powerpc-mac-to-create-bootable.html 



The problem with either of these is that the installer program won't  
allow these installations, and you'd normally need to clone a non- 
standard partition format or use a customized installer.


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Re: USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Stephen Conrad
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 2:32 PM, Kris Tilford ktilfo...@cox.net wrote:

 On May 13, 2010, at 2:19 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:

  Today when I plugged the camera into the cord (which I leave plugged in) I
 got a Low Power Warning.


  Why is this?


 Most cameras not only transfer data but also recharge the battery via USB.

  What could have changed?


 The battery is lower on charge, and is drawing more amperage than before.
 The limit is 500mA total per USB port unless you have an external USB hub
 with its own power supply. I've seen this message before using a USB memory
 stick to a keyboard port. Since the USB memory stick doesn't draw
 significant power, this might be an error specific to keyboard ports that
 you can safely ignore, at least that's what I did.

 This camera uses 3 AAA batteries and I have regular old alkaline cells in
it .

And, so as not to double post

I did move it to a powered 4 port USB hub.
It is connected but this time it didn't trigger Image Capture (asking me
what I wanted to DL)
-- 
Steve Conrad
Henrietta, MO 64036

The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle behind; to go
forth and claim our place in outer space.
  - Capt. Henry Gloval


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Re: USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Kris Tilford

On May 13, 2010, at 3:08 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:

This camera uses 3 AAA batteries and I have regular old alkaline  
cells in it .


You might want to check this to be sure which is right for your  
camera. I have several small Sony cameras that use AAA NiMH  
rechargeable batteries. I think if you use AAA alkaline cells in a  
camera meant to use NiMH you'll get into problems, they're different  
voltage, 2.2v for NiMH and 2.5v for alkaline. If you try to recharge  
an alkaline that could be bad too, they leak or worse under attempted  
recharge.


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Re: USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Bruce Johnson

On May 13, 2010, at 12:32 PM, Kris Tilford wrote:

 
 What could have changed?
 
 The battery is lower on charge, and is drawing more amperage than before. The 
 limit is 500mA total per USB port unless you have an external USB hub with 
 its own power supply. I've seen this message before using a USB memory stick 
 to a keyboard port. Since the USB memory stick doesn't draw significant 
 power, this might be an error specific to keyboard ports that you can safely 
 ignore, at least that's what I did.

Also the Mac keyboard ports are lower power than normal, because they're an 
unpowered hub. I've seen some older USB flash drives produce that warning.

-- 
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs


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RE: USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Stewie de Young



 
 On May 13, 2010, at 3:08 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:
 
  This camera uses 3 AAA batteries and I have regular old alkaline  
  cells in it .
 
 You might want to check this to be sure which is right for your  
 camera. I have several small Sony cameras that use AAA NiMH  
 rechargeable batteries. I think if you use AAA alkaline cells in a  
 camera meant to use NiMH you'll get into problems, they're different  
 voltage, 2.2v for NiMH and 2.5v for alkaline. If you try to recharge  
 an alkaline that could be bad too, they leak or worse under attempted  
 recharge.
 
Very true Kris.
I have two digital Kodaks that according to the manual need rechargeables that 
are rated 2000mAh or better but I find I need to use 2200mAh or better to make 
them work properly - they refuse to recognise any form of alkalines.
I ended up buyng a bunch of 2500mAh and they work like a charm.

Stewie
  
_
Need a new place to live? Find it on Domain.com.au
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/

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Re: USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Stephen Conrad
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 5:06 PM, Stewie de Young stewies...@hotmail.comwrote:


 
  On May 13, 2010, at 3:08 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:
 
   This camera uses 3 AAA batteries and I have regular old alkaline
   cells in it .
 
  You might want to check this to be sure which is right for your
  camera. I have several small Sony cameras that use AAA NiMH
  rechargeable batteries. I think if you use AAA alkaline cells in a
  camera meant to use NiMH you'll get into problems, they're different
  voltage, 2.2v for NiMH and 2.5v for alkaline. If you try to recharge
  an alkaline that could be bad too, they leak or worse under attempted
  recharge.
 
 Very true Kris.
 I have two digital Kodaks that according to the manual need rechargeables
 that are rated 2000mAh or better but I find I need to use 2200mAh or better
 to make them work properly - they refuse to recognise any form of alkalines.
 I ended up buyng a bunch of 2500mAh and they work like a charm.

 This is an older Digital Concepts camera
I don't know if it requires NiNH (or NiCad)

-- 
Steve Conrad
Henrietta, MO 64036

The time has come for mankind to grow up and leave its cradle behind; to go
forth and claim our place in outer space.
  - Capt. Henry Gloval


(\__/)
(='.'=)
()_()
Help Bunny Take Over The World!

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Re: USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Clark Martin

On 5/13/10 1:17 PM, Kris Tilford wrote:

On May 13, 2010, at 3:08 PM, Stephen Conrad wrote:


This camera uses 3 AAA batteries and I have regular old alkaline
cells in it .


You might want to check this to be sure which is right for your
camera. I have several small Sony cameras that use AAA NiMH
rechargeable batteries. I think if you use AAA alkaline cells in a
camera meant to use NiMH you'll get into problems, they're different
voltage, 2.2v for NiMH and 2.5v for alkaline. If you try to recharge
an alkaline that could be bad too, they leak or worse under attempted
recharge.



Most equipment that takes AA or AAA is designed to use alkalines or 
NiMH.  So will charge NiMH but you usually have to switch it on some how 
(in some cases it takes a different battery holder).



--
Clark Martin
Redwood City, CA, USA
Macintosh / Internet Consulting

I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway

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Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-13 Thread James Morgan
	I have been using my MDD G4 (not that far removed from the  
quicksilver) for months now with a startup button that sometimes  
flickers, dies and does not start (a problem that began after I  
accidently disconnected the power while it was running). But given a  
rest for a few hours it starts fine (after a few tried, of course)  
and then continues to start so long as it is shut  down normally   
However, if disconnected from the power while running (yep. I did it  
again) it falls back into the button light flicker and dies mode.   
But then, given some rest and tried again, starts up and runs fine  
again.


	It seems to me if this were a power supply issue that the computer  
would never start again? Also, I don't see why a power outage would  
kill a computer power supply?



===
On May 13, 2010, at 11:23 AM, Bruce Johnson wrote:



On May 12, 2010, at 7:13 PM, ll wrote:


We  lost power yesterday. My quicksilver has been on a really
good surge protector for two years. It wasn't enough this time
however. If I push the on button,a light shows,flickers and dies. The
machine never turns on. I am assuming my hardrive is fried.


Nope. This is a power supply issue, and seems to be pretty common  
with Quicksilvers. A new replacement ps is about $230 or so, we  
replaced on in a professors system not too long ago.


You could try to find another QS or later Mac and drop your hdd  
into it; more than likely your drive (and the rest of the system)  
is just fine, or look for a replacement PS on fleabay or such.




--
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs


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James K Morgan



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Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-13 Thread Jason Brown
If the power supply were weak before the power failure, ie bulging capacitors, 
it would seem like the power failure caused it. Inversely, if the power surge 
that hit the system upon power restoration caused a cap to bulge, then that 
would also cause this, depending on the cap location and what rail it is on. If 
it is the kick start capacitor, you can hang it up until you replace it. That 
capacitor holds a small charge to kick start the power supply when you press 
the power button. All of these are an easy fix if you have the time and 
patience and are good with a soldering iron. I repair power supplies as well as 
motherboards like this all the time.


On May 13, 2010, at 5:46 PM, James Morgan wrote:

   I have been using my MDD G4 (not that far removed from the quicksilver) 
 for months now with a startup button that sometimes flickers, dies and does 
 not start (a problem that began after I accidently disconnected the power 
 while it was running). But given a rest for a few hours it starts fine (after 
 a few tried, of course) and then continues to start so long as it is shut  
 down normally  However, if disconnected from the power while running (yep. I 
 did it again) it falls back into the button light flicker and dies mode.  But 
 then, given some rest and tried again, starts up and runs fine again.
 
   It seems to me if this were a power supply issue that the computer 
 would never start again? Also, I don't see why a power outage would kill a 
 computer power supply?
 
 
 ===
 On May 13, 2010, at 11:23 AM, Bruce Johnson wrote:
 
 
 On May 12, 2010, at 7:13 PM, ll wrote:
 
 We  lost power yesterday. My quicksilver has been on a really
 good surge protector for two years. It wasn't enough this time
 however. If I push the on button,a light shows,flickers and dies. The
 machine never turns on. I am assuming my hardrive is fried.
 
 Nope. This is a power supply issue, and seems to be pretty common with 
 Quicksilvers. A new replacement ps is about $230 or so, we replaced on in a 
 professors system not too long ago. 
 
 You could try to find another QS or later Mac and drop your hdd into it; 
 more than likely your drive (and the rest of the system) is just fine, or 
 look for a replacement PS on fleabay or such.
 
 
 
 -- 
 Bruce Johnson
 University of Arizona
 College of Pharmacy
 Information Technology Group
 
 Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs
 
 
 -- 
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 Macs.
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 netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml
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 http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
 
 James K Morgan
 
 
 
 
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What was the last Mac to natively run OS 9?

2010-05-13 Thread coolrays
The subject pretty much asks the question. Also, which Mac last  
shipped with OS9? Wad it a G4? G3?


r

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Re: What was the last Mac to natively run OS 9?

2010-05-13 Thread Dennis Myhand

coolr...@comcast.net wrote:
The subject pretty much asks the question. Also, which Mac last shipped 
with OS9? Wad it a G4? G3?


r

I remember working at a school in Texas (Willie Nelson's home town) and 
we received a new G-3 iMac in Red running OS9.  That was in April of 
2001.  I think the next things that came out were running OSX.  Peace, 
Dennis


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Re: What was the last Mac to natively run OS 9?

2010-05-13 Thread Kris Tilford

You can use MacTracker to find these answers yourself.

PowerMac G4 MDD
iBook G3 900MHz 32MB VRAM
PowerBook G4 1GHz

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Re: What was the last Mac to natively run OS 9?

2010-05-13 Thread Bruce Johnson

On May 13, 2010, at 3:54 PM, coolr...@comcast.net wrote:

 The subject pretty much asks the question. 

After the G5's came out, Apple released a revised MDD model that booted into a 
special-for-this-model-only version of OS 9.2.2. 


-- 
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University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs


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Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-13 Thread dorayme


On 14/05/2010, at 7:40 AM, g3-5-list+nore...@googlegroups.com wrote:


Topic: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss
James Morgan macsh...@mac.com May 13 10:32AM -0400 ^

Don't do anything drastic to your quicksilver yet. I have two MDD
G4's and both of them are cranky when it comes to starting up. One of
them shows the same symptoms you describe (push the button, a light
shows, flickers and dies) anytime it has been improperly disconnected
from the power source. But if I give it some time and keep trying, it
starts up again. And after that, if it is shut down properly, it will
start properly.

So, as a start, try this. Wait a few hours. Push the button. Wait
some more. Push the button. Eventually it will start. Mine does.




You see! The QS 933 has a soul! No wonder I keep mine going and work  
it every day. That latest Macbook on the desk over there --  
cries in vain to be used and is waiting for the day my G4 dies, but  
what can I do? I cannot abandon this sprightly old thing. One day, of  
course, the sad day will come when it abandons me for that big place  
in the sky...


g

--
dorayme



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They're dead, Jim...

2010-05-13 Thread ===( )8

Hiya Listers,

Oh no! I THINK that BOTH USB ports in my Mini died! :-O Is this 
possible, they could both go at the same time? Or am I missing 
something? OK, here it is...


This is the same Mini from the other day (1.5 GHz/1 GB RAM/Tiger 
10.4.2). Remember the KVM wires got discombobulated when I was messing 
around in the area of the wire nest? And reseating the KVm connections 
fixed it all up? Everything was great with it until this morning, when, 
yup, I was back there in the wire nest again this morning (never mind 
with what). Anyway, when I thought I was done in the wire nest and I 
went back to the Mini, well, at first I couldn't get it to show up at 
all. Repeated reseating KVM-Mini connections on both ends finally gets 
me the monitor and keyboard, but I have a frozen mouse issue now (cursor 
stuck on screen). Yup, mouse is good, working just fine with the 
Quicksilver, only stuck on the Mini. After numerous reconnection 
attempts (including with different KVM wires), and even reconnecting the 
Quicksilver to the Mini's original position, all the same results: 
Quicksilver is good, Mini has a frozen cursor.


S -- I take the KVM's USB end out of the Mini and stick in my 
favorite flash drive (YES IT WORKS!). In fact, it is standard procedure 
for me to use this very same flash drive in the Mini to move small to 
moderate populations of Sims from the Mini to the iBook (and back to the 
Mini from the iBook) at least a couple times a week -- daily when 
circumstances apply. Well, the flash drive did not flash its green light 
at me when I plugged it into either its usual port or the other one (the 
one where the KVM's USB connection was), and didn't show up on the 
Mini's desktop. But it DID flash and appear on the iBook. My external 
USB HD also works with the iBook, the Quicksilver and NOT the Mini, 
regardless of port (that used to work with the Mini too).


This is why I think both the Mini's USB ports are dead -- is there 
another test I'm missing?


And if they ARE dead...can they be saved? How?

Thanks,

~Yersinia.



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Re: They're dead, Jim...

2010-05-13 Thread Bruce Johnson

On May 13, 2010, at 5:00 PM, ===( )8 wrote:

 Hiya Listers,
 
 Oh no! I THINK that BOTH USB ports in my Mini died! :-O Is this possible, 
 they could both go at the same time? Or am I missing something? OK, here it 
 is...

Ka-snippo.

Macs can act all weird when they don't have a kb and/or mouse attached.

Try it stand-alone: connect a known-good keyboard and mouse to the Mini. Reboot 
the mini in safe mode. See what happens.

If the USB ports are indeed dead, it's new logicboard time (or new Mini time) 
and I personally would get rid of that KVM immediately.

-- 
Bruce Johnson
University of Arizona
College of Pharmacy
Information Technology Group

Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs


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Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-13 Thread Michael G.M.
On May 13, 7:24 pm, dorayme dora...@optusnet.com.au wrote:
 You see! The QS 933 has a soul! No wonder I keep mine going and work  
 it every day. That latest Macbook on the desk over there --  
 cries in vain to be used and is waiting for the day my G4 dies, but  
 what can I do? I cannot abandon this sprightly old thing. One day, of  
 course, the sad day will come when it abandons me for that big place  
 in the sky...

 g

 --
 dorayme
PowerPC never leaves the user, Users (defectors) leave PowerPC. -
Another PPC Mac will be awaiting your allegiance if and/or when that
day ever comes. PowerPC forever!!

And if we ever get Kryptonite, Intel will be moot.

-Mike

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Allowing a Windoze 7 Laptop to Access my Wireless Network

2010-05-13 Thread Bill Connelly
I set up my wireless Versalink router using my DA Dual 533 G4 under OS  
X 10.5.8.


My new roomie's iTouch is seen by my router's browser window, but I  
cannot see his Gateway Laptop running Windoze 7. I give the iTouch  
permission to connect using its Mac Address, but no Mac Address shows  
up for the Laptop, since it isn't being seen by my Mac.


His machine see's my wireless connection SSID, so is it my Mac that  
isn't configured just right?


Something under my System Preferences  Network, Sharing or other?

Thanks.

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Re: They're dead, Jim...

2010-05-13 Thread ===( )8

Bruce Johnson writes,

Macs can act all weird when they don't have a kb and/or mouse attached.

Try it stand-alone: connect a known-good keyboard and mouse to the Mini. 
Reboot the mini in safe mode. See what happens.


WOW! It worked FINE stand-alone!  :-O It booted up in Safe Mode 
(keyboard was fine when it asked for my password), I moused around with 
it a little, then I did a regular restart, and it seemed OK. OK I didn't 
do much with it because there was zero room on the desk (I had to also 
drag in the spare old 15 monitor from the living room; took it off 
the BW), but it seemed OK. Then I took the keyboard off to free up one 
of the USB ports and put Favorite Flash Drive in. Whammy, wonderful, 
there it is on  the desktop. I use the mouse to properly eject it by 
putting it in the trash.


If the USB ports are indeed dead, it's new logicboard time (or new Mini 
time) and I personally would get rid of that KVM immediately.


Well...apparently they're not dead after all. Thank goodness! Question 
though:  why would you get rid of the KVM? Would a different make/model 
of KVM switch be better somehow? (The one I have is an Iogear Miniview 
4-port.) Maybe next time I mess around in or near the Wire Nest I ought 
to shut down my Macs totally? Or do KVMs blow up computers?


BTW, in order to use the Mini (in here, which is where I want to use it 
anyway) I have to use the KVM, which is central to my Optimum Plan: to 
be able to Sim on the Mini and click immediately over to the Quicksilver 
occasionally to check email/web surf/do other things -- and not have to 
shut down/reboot anything except rarely (Ha!). On this note, I just 
hooked the Mini back on to the KVM to see if it would work after all, 
seeing how well the standalone tryout worked -- and wow, for now anyway, 
the Mini and KVM are playing nice so I'm back in business.


Thanks for your help Bruce!  :-D

~Yersinia.


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Re: Allowing a Windoze 7 Laptop to Access my Wireless Network

2010-05-13 Thread iJohn
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 10:17 PM, Bill Connelly
billycarm...@verizon.net wrote:
 His machine see's my wireless connection SSID, so is it my Mac that isn't
 configured just right?

Is this the Win7 laptop which sees your Wireless Access Points (WAP) SSID

-irrational john

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Re: Allowing a Windoze 7 Laptop to Access my Wireless Network

2010-05-13 Thread Bill Connelly


On May 13, 2010, at 10:45 PM, iJohn wrote:


On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 10:17 PM, Bill Connelly
billycarm...@verizon.net wrote:
His machine see's my wireless connection SSID, so is it my Mac that  
isn't

configured just right?


Is this the Win7 laptop which sees your Wireless Access Points (WAP)  
SSID




Yes. If I have the terminology correct. We gave it also the WEP  
password, but it doesn't show up on my Mac. It should be seen in the  
Westell Versalink's browser window, along with any other device,  
wireless or ethernet wired to the router.


May be this would be better asked on a router forum?

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Re: USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Clark Martin

On 5/13/10 1:34 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote:


On May 13, 2010, at 12:32 PM, Kris Tilford wrote:



What could have changed?


The battery is lower on charge, and is drawing more amperage than
before. The limit is 500mA total per USB port unless you have an
external USB hub with its own power supply. I've seen this message
before using a USB memory stick to a keyboard port. Since the USB
memory stick doesn't draw significant power, this might be an error
specific to keyboard ports that you can safely ignore, at least
that's what I did.


Also the Mac keyboard ports are lower power than normal, because
they're an unpowered hub. I've seen some older USB flash drives
produce that warning.



There is a maximum of 500mA available from a powered port (on the 
computer or a powered hub).  Each device is allocated a minimum of 
100mA.  The hub inside the keyboard, the keyboard itself, the mouse and 
the camera are likely each requesting the minimum of 100mA so that's a 
total of 400 mA allocated.  That leaves 100mA still available so this 
problem SHOULDN'T be happening.  If the keyboard is plugged into an 
unpowered hub you could get this problem.


USB is in many ways a well thought out specifications but the 
implementation frequently falls short.



I have seen some USB devices that request 500mA regardless of what they 
need.  I suspect the programmers were just being lazy.


--
Clark Martin
Redwood City, CA, USA
Macintosh / Internet Consulting

I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway

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Re: They're dead, Jim...

2010-05-13 Thread Richard Gerome

   This is a great tip for your wire (nest) mess: Go to a auto parts store and 
get some ignition wire looms that snap open and shut... Reorganise those wires 
with the looms to keep them all separate from one another and the wires that 
are way too long fold them up and use some twist ties or wire ties around them, 
but do not fold up the display screen cord for this may cause a inductive 
voltage problem and mess up the picture (this happens when guys with the hot 
rods get engines and the computer and wire harness out of junk yards and the 
wire harness is too long so they would roll up the wire harness and wire tie it 
together, then the engine would run really bad and they wouldn't know why) with 
all those wires running through it and all the different voltages cause it to 
act like an ignition coil and increase the voltage... Some of you probably wont 
know what I'm talking about here but for those of you who do know, great!!! 
Just thought I would add this comment because I see so many people with this 
mess behind their computer desk... Maybe this could be some of the mysteries 
for some of the problems with computers messing up??? Sorry if this is off 
topic, needed to be told...

 


Well...apparently they're not dead after all. Thank goodness! Question 
though:  why would you get rid of the KVM? Would a different make/model 
of KVM switch be better somehow? (The one I have is an Iogear Miniview 
4-port.) Maybe next time I mess around in or near the Wire Nest I ought 
to shut down my Macs totally? Or do KVMs blow up computers?



Scars only tell us where we have been, they do not have to dictate where we are 
going...

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Re: What was the last Mac to natively run OS 9?

2010-05-13 Thread Richard Gerome


   Are you asking when the last computer came out with ONLY OS 9 without OS 
10??? Or when they stopped putting OS 9 in them??? If it is the last with only 
OS 9 I would have to say maybe the end of 2000, because this is when I got it 
for my Clamshell when it first came out it was OS 10 and the disc I got didn't 
have a name like Puma or Jaguar...



-Original Message-
From: coolr...@comcast.net
Sent: May 13, 2010 6:54 PM
To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com
Subject: What was the last Mac to natively run OS 9?

The subject pretty much asks the question. Also, which Mac last  
shipped with OS9? Wad it a G4? G3?

r

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Scars only tell us where we have been, they do not have to dictate where we are 
going...

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Re: What was the last Mac to natively run OS 9?

2010-05-13 Thread Richard Gerome

   I made a mistake it was the end of 2001 I got that OS 10 disc... So I would 
have to say the G3 iBooks and iMacs were the last to just come with OS 9 (or 
somewhere in the middle of the G3's before the G4's) then I think they started 
to come dual boot 9 and 10 with Classic after that but I couldn't tell you what 
models???




-Original Message-
From: coolr...@comcast.net
Sent: May 13, 2010 6:54 PM
To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com
Subject: What was the last Mac to natively run OS 9?

The subject pretty much asks the question. Also, which Mac last  
shipped with OS9? Wad it a G4? G3?

r

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Scars only tell us where we have been, they do not have to dictate where we are 
going...

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Re: USB Question

2010-05-13 Thread Stephen Conrad
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 10:57 PM, Clark Martin cm...@sonic.net wrote:

 On 5/13/10 1:34 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote:


 On May 13, 2010, at 12:32 PM, Kris Tilford wrote:


 What could have changed?


 The battery is lower on charge, and is drawing more amperage than
 before. The limit is 500mA total per USB port unless you have an
 external USB hub with its own power supply. I've seen this message
 before using a USB memory stick to a keyboard port. Since the USB
 memory stick doesn't draw significant power, this might be an error
 specific to keyboard ports that you can safely ignore, at least
 that's what I did.


 Also the Mac keyboard ports are lower power than normal, because
 they're an unpowered hub. I've seen some older USB flash drives
 produce that warning.


 There is a maximum of 500mA available from a powered port (on the computer
 or a powered hub).  Each device is allocated a minimum of 100mA.  The hub
 inside the keyboard, the keyboard itself, the mouse and the camera are
 likely each requesting the minimum of 100mA so that's a total of 400 mA
 allocated.  That leaves 100mA still available so this problem SHOULDN'T be
 happening.  If the keyboard is plugged into an unpowered hub you could get
 this problem.

 USB is in many ways a well thought out specifications but the
 implementation frequently falls short.


 I have seen some USB devices that request 500mA regardless of what they
 need.  I suspect the programmers were just being lazy.

 OK, here is what Apple System Profiler says
The Second USB Hub is powered off a power cord while the first is powered by
the USB Bus

*USB Bus:*


  Host Controller Location: Built In USB

  Host Controller Driver: AppleUSBOHCI

  PCI Device ID: 0x0019

  PCI Revision ID: 0x0001

  PCI Vendor ID: 0x106b

  Bus Number: 0x18


*Hub in Apple USB Keyboard:*


  Version: 2.10

  Bus Power (mA): 500

  Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec

  Manufacturer: Alps Electric

  Product ID: 0x1001

  Vendor ID: 0x05ac  (Apple Computer, Inc.)


*USB-PS/2 Optical Mouse:*


  Version: 27.20

  Bus Power (mA): 100

  Speed: Up to 1.5 Mb/sec

  Manufacturer: Logitech

  Product ID: 0xc044

  Vendor ID: 0x046d


*Apple USB Keyboard:*


  Version: 1.02

  Bus Power (mA): 250

  Speed: Up to 1.5 Mb/sec

  Manufacturer: Alps Electric

  Product ID: 0x0201

  Vendor ID: 0x05ac  (Apple Computer, Inc.)



*USB Bus:*


  Host Controller Location: Built In USB

  Host Controller Driver: AppleUSBOHCI

  PCI Device ID: 0x0019

  PCI Revision ID: 0x0001

  PCI Vendor ID: 0x106b

  Bus Number: 0x19


*Hub:*


  Version: 1.00

  Bus Power (mA): 500

  Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec

  Product ID: 0x0003

  Vendor ID: 0x050f


*DataTraveler2.0:*


  Capacity: 1.86 GB

  Removable Media: Yes

  Detachable Drive: Yes

  BSD Name: disk8

  Version: 1.00

  Bus Power (mA): 100

  Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec

  Manufacturer: Kingston

  OS9 Drivers: No

  Product ID: 0x160b

  Serial Number: 0809251010162

  S.M.A.R.T. status: Not Supported

  Vendor ID: 0x0951

  Volumes:

*KINGSTON1:*

  Capacity: 1.86 GB

  Available: 1.72 GB

  Writable: Yes

  File System: MS-DOS FAT16

  BSD Name: disk8s1

  Mount Point: /Volumes/KINGSTON1


*JUMPDRIVE SECURE:*


  Capacity: 247.5 MB

  Removable Media: Yes

  Detachable Drive: Yes

  BSD Name: disk4

  Version: 30.00

  Bus Power (mA): 100

  Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec

  Manufacturer: LEXAR MEDIA

  OS9 Drivers: No

  Product ID: 0xa431

  Serial Number: 00027D02083755180706

  S.M.A.R.T. status: Not Supported

  Vendor ID: 0x05dc

  Volumes:

*Secure II:*

  Capacity: 247.48 MB

  Available: 16.64 MB

  Writable: Yes

  File System: MS-DOS FAT16

  BSD Name: disk4s1

  Mount Point: /Volumes/Secure II


*Flash Disk:*


  Capacity: 123.62 MB

  Removable Media: Yes

  Detachable Drive: Yes

  BSD Name: disk3

  Version: 1.00

  Bus Power (mA): 100

  Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec

  Manufacturer:

  OS9 Drivers: No

  Product ID: 0x6025

  Serial Number: 124757267656

  S.M.A.R.T. status: Not Supported

  Vendor ID: 0x0204

  Volumes:

*CENTRUM:*

  Capacity: 123.61 MB

  Writable: Yes

  File System: MS-DOS FAT16

  BSD Name: disk3s1

  Mount Point: /Volumes/CENTRUM


*Hub:*


  Version: 1.00

  Bus Power (mA): 100

  Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec

  Product ID: 0x005a

  Vendor ID: 0x0409


*USB Device:*


  Capacity: 1.84 GB

  Removable Media: Yes

  Detachable Drive: Yes

  BSD Name: disk9

  Version: 0.10

  Bus Power (mA): 500

  Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec

  OS9 Drivers: No

  Product ID: 0x915d

  Serial Number: USB Device

  S.M.A.R.T. status: Not Supported

  Vendor ID: 0x2770

  Volumes:

*NO NAME:*

  Capacity: 1.84 GB

  Available: 1.75 GB

  Writable: Yes

  File System: MS-DOS FAT16

  BSD Name: disk9s1

  Mount Point: /Volumes/NO NAME


*DataTraveler 2.0:*


  Capacity: 1.89 GB

  Removable Media: Yes

  Detachable Drive: Yes

  BSD Name: disk5

  Version: 1.00

  Bus Power (mA): 500

  Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec

  Manufacturer: Kingston

  OS9 Drivers: No

  Product ID: 0x6545

  Serial 

Re: Allowing a Windoze 7 Laptop to Access my Wireless Network

2010-05-13 Thread iJohn
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 11:49 PM, Bill Connelly
billycarm...@verizon.net wrote:

 May be this would be better asked on a router forum?


You could try the General Wireless Discussion section of
http://forums.smallnetbuilder.com You'd find limited experience with
Mac's there, but they would understand the windows and router side of
things. Of course, like all forum boards it requires you to register
before you post.

Why are you using WEP? Is that all the Versalink router will support? :-(

-irrational john

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