Re: Mysterious communications between two G5s

2011-07-05 Thread iJohn
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 5:19 AM, Tom tba...@nmia.com wrote:
 The Zoom X6v integrates a full-rate ADSL 2/2+ modem, router, 802.11
 wireless access point,

The key words there are router and 802.11. Router in this case implies
it allows computers connected to it to exchange information with each
other. 802.11 is another way of saying wireless networking. So, yes,
your two computers are connected to a LAN.

Other questions worth asking IMO at this point are, who set up the
wireless connection between the computers and what sort of security
does it use? Is there any chance that one of your neighbors could also
be using your wireless network to access the Internet and/or your
computers?

-irrational john

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Re: Startup Sequence

2011-06-29 Thread iJohn
On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 9:25 AM, Iamanamma vsand...@neo.rr.com wrote:
 There is a program on that computer that is vital to the operation of
 three very large and very expensive turret punches and one laser
 cutter that are the life's blood of the business that supplies my
 paycheck.

So ... if this Mac you are using suddenly dies. Say the PSU
finally pops or something else gives out ... it will happen eventually
you know ... then what happens to your business?

I would hope you have at least one (or more) identical copy of this
machine in a safe area ready to go should it die. No?

Not sure what I would do if my income depended on ancient hardware I
wouldn't be totally sure I could replace relatively quickly. I'm just
sayin' ...

-irrational john

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Re: Selling upgraded Macs

2011-06-19 Thread iJohn
The problem with this discussion in my opinion is that everyone is
correct but you all seem to have a hard time seeing it.

I think what matters most when pairing a computer with a person is
what that person is going to do with the computer. For those with a
heavy tilt towards consuming video, an older Mac is definitely going
to be less special. Maybe a PC or even an iPad might be a better fit.

But, on the other hand, those with simpler, less computationally
demanding needs who just want to do email, some simple word processing
maybe, and access the internet through dial-up then an eMac (or other
PPC Mac) can be a good fit.

So my answer to Austen's question is to try it and find out. I
wouldn't sink too much time or money into at first until you get an
idea whether or not the market you think is out there is REALLY out
there. But it seems pretty clear Austin is in a better position to
find out what's out there in his area than, well, certainly better
than I am.

Maybe a year or two back an acquaintance asked me to help her get an
inexpensive computer. We actually didn't get further than that so
recently I asked her if she was still interested. She said she was
going to look at a smart phone (Blackberry maybe?) as it seemed it
would be good enough for her needs.

Not everyone is using desktop or laptop computers to interact online
these days. Something else to think about when trying to fit a
solution to a person's computing needs.

-irrational john

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Re: SATA to eSATA adapter cable

2011-06-19 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Jun 19, 2011 at 9:24 PM, Sean Carroll slcarr...@me.com wrote:
 The adapter cable I'm looking at it is down the page here:

 http://www.macgurus.com/store/ecom-prodshow/SATACables.html

Actually, I assumed you were looking for an internal SATA (or iSATA to
use Peter's notation) to eSATA cable. Here's a link to an example:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-P952-003-eSATA-Signal/dp/B00119P6SU

Disregard my previous comment about the iSATA to eSATA bracket cable.
I don't know what I was thinking. Some times I type instead of
thinking hard enough.

-irrational john

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Re: Selling upgraded Macs

2011-06-16 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 9:58 AM, Austin Leeds
firepowerforfree...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've been doing a little looking around on eBay lately, as well as my
 college, and I'm perceiving a market for inexpensive but useable
 computers.

Having looked about on eBay a month or three ago when a friend's eMac
was showing signs of approaching death, I would speculate that one of
the big problems with what you are proposing is something which,  in
another context, I think you would refer to as a plus for Macs. But
in this context it would be a potential negative, for you at least.

For whatever reason, Macs seem to hold value a lot longer than non-Mac gear.

I would think that would make it hard to do what you are proposing.
Unless you can find dead gear for cheap and breath life back into it.
But even that approach is not as easy as you might expect. When
bidding on as-is Mac's I found that pretty much anything with a
functioning LCD screen would be driven up in price by the folks who
break them up and part them out. I think they can get a very good
price for a replacement LCD screen. Then the rest is gravy, as they
say.

It's a nice thought but I'm not sure how you would be able to fill the
need of this group looking for inexpensive but usable systems. What
could you really offer them? (Ouch! That's sounds harsher than I
really meant it to. But hopefully the meaning I intended is clear. :-)

-irrational john

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Re: OT: Linksys WET54G Wireless Bridge

2011-05-20 Thread iJohn
On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 9:30 AM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:
 On May 19, 2011, at 9:52 PM, Jonas Ulrich wrote:
  I will need to disable the DHCP
 server setting on one of those routers for it to have the possibility of
 working correctly.

 Disable the Netgear's DHCP; leave the Buffalo (which is routing to the WAN)
 as the DHCP server. (or simply replace the netgear with a small switch)

That would be my suggestion as well. Also, make sure you connect the
WET54G  to one of the Netgear's LAN ports, NOT to the WAN port. While
I have seen other people suggest that going through the WAN port will
work just fine, I have always had my doubts about this. Trying to
understand NATing an already NATed IP and essentially creating another
firewalled LAN inside a LAN gives me mild nausea so I try to never
go there.

Remember that what you want is to make sure all the devices in your
LAN are assigned addresses which are on the SAME subnet, otherwise
they will not be able to (easily) talk to each other.

-irrational john

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Re: I am forced to go Intel? Common rant, I guess.

2011-05-10 Thread iJohn
On Mon, May 9, 2011 at 10:45 PM, Wallace Adrian D'Alessio
fluxstrin...@gmail.com wrote:
 A hand me down PC laptop and a copy of Leopard might even be cheaper.

In my experience, Leopard is only inexpensive if you happen to already
own a retail copy of it which you can re-purpose. Otherwise Snow
Leopard is IMO a better way to go with Intel.

OTOH, if you know of a retail copy of Leopard I can pick up for ~$30
(or less ;-), please let me know. In the eBay auctions I've lookoed
at, Leopard goes for $90 or more IIRC.

FWIW,

-irrational John

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Re: Apple_ARM ?

2011-05-08 Thread iJohn
On Sun, May 8, 2011 at 2:16 PM, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote:
 ...A side note:  Many of the chip engineers I've spoken with regard Intel's
 3D announcement as simply hype.

The point of view over at AnandTech seems to be different IMO.
www.anandtech.com/show/4313/intel-announces-first-22nm-3d-trigate-transistors-shipping-in-2h-2011

My take after reading the AnandTech piece is that what Intel announced
was about a manufacturing process more than about transistor
technology per se. The changes Intel is implementing under the
marketing label of 3D do seem to be anything new or surprising to
the industry. The underlying theory behind it appears to be well
understood.

What makes it arguably newsworthy is that Intel apparently has found a
way to turn the theory into a product feature. Intel is not just doing
this as a lab trick but as a large scale manufacturing process.

And while it is probably more evolutionary than revolutionary, it will
still result in either increased performance or using less power in
the chips it is applied to. No, it won't in itself do anything to
displace ARM. But it is still an impressive improvement.

There are certainly things that Intel does that I would consider less
special. Their semiconductor manufacturing is NOT one of these. One of
the many reasons why it may happen that Apple would ask Intel to build
ARM chips for them is simply because Intel is very good at
semiconductor manufacturing. My understanding is that they have been a
generation ahead of the rest of the industry in terms of scale for
quite a while now. And I don't see anyone else catching up to them any
time soon.

FWIW,

-irrational john

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Re: Any keyboard key cleaning suggestions? (NOT involving a dishwasher!)

2011-04-29 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Apr 29, 2011 at 1:54 AM, Tina K. penguir...@gmail.com wrote:
 I think anything moist will attract dirt  debris, defeating the purpose.
 Perhaps graphite powder?

Perhaps. But whatever was originally used seems to have been a fairly
standard liquid lubricant.

So I'm thinking something not that special which works for both metal
and plastic. Maybe just some silicon lubricant from Home Depot?

-irrational john

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Any keyboard key cleaning suggestions? (NOT involving a dishwasher!)

2011-04-28 Thread iJohn
I just bought a couple of white Apple (Pro?)  A1048 (aka M9034 ? aka
661-3800 ?) Keyboards on eBay. The plan is to first test them and then
clean them up as best I can. Hopefully I will be able to resell some
of them if they're in good enough shape.

So, about the cleaning. I only know one way to clean a keyboard which
is to gently pop off all the keys so they can be cleaned separately
and also clear out any filth trapped underneath the keys. This also
permits a careful, gentle cleaning of the keyboard bed underneath the
keys.

With these A1048s this looks to be very doable. I may also try
removing the three torx (?) screws on the bottom so I can clean the
clear plastic part.

Usually I would just soak the keys in water dosed with dishwasher
soap. But some of these keys are very yellow. Not sure what caused the
yellowing and I'm also not sure what I might do to (safely) try to
make them whiter? I keep thinking just throw them in a bleach solution
and see what happens But that's only because I'm essentially a
complete idiot. . ;-)

Got any suggestions on how to gently get whiter whites for my keyboard
keys? (Maybe I should try soaking them in an OxiClean solution? :-)

A secondary question. What would be a good lubricant to (re)apply to
the metal guides on the larger keys such as the space bar, return key,
shift keys, et cetera? My only thought so far here is maybe petroleum
jelly?

-irrational john

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Re: Any keyboard key cleaning suggestions? (NOT involving a dishwasher!)

2011-04-28 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Apr 28, 2011 at 5:15 PM, Jerry Kemp apple.mail.lis...@oryx.cc wrote:
 If you truly have yellowing computer components, and they are not just
 stained by spilling pop on them or something like that, you need Retr0bright

 http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com

Huh. Well, yes, that looks the stuff I may well be looking for. I
guess I'll try to just clean the keys with dishsoap and then possibly
soak them in perioxide  oxiclean before resorting to the gel. But
definitely an interesting site. Thank for providing the link.

On Thu, Apr 28, 2011 at 4:56 PM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:
  You can Google the take-apart for them there's more than three screws.

John, I tried googled around, but I didn't find much of use to me. It
turns out there are a LOT of (pointless?) videos about cleaning a
keyboard out on YouTube. (It also appears that making these videos is
quite literally child's play more often than I would have expected.)

But none of the ones I looked at provided any insight into
disassembling an A1048 beyond popping off the keys. I didn't see
anything out on iFixIt.com either.

-irrational john

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Re: OK, I'll Try This Again. Locksmith Wanted (wifi).

2011-04-27 Thread iJohn
On Wed, Apr 27, 2011 at 12:12 PM, Len Gerstel lgers...@gmail.com wrote:

 And, to make this more topical, how much better of a password is:

 gre5^#$dkl(dfdlq!94NdKRlfl‡Ò˝vt456wy^^9G53MJUlo0!!

 as a password vs:

 P4ssW0rD

 When someone hacks into the Sony Playstation Network and steals 77 million,
 yes 77,000,000 user names, passwords, security questions, addresses, birth
 dates and possibly CC information. Not to mention all the other large scale
 hacks recently.


I am confused. Why would the Sony Playstation Network have the
password to anyone's Wi-Fi router?

The only place I use a ridiculously long, sorta random password is my
router Wi-Fi. Mostly because I'm never ever going to enter it again
after I set things up. :-)

But to each their own. It's your data  network  whatever ...

-irrational john

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Re: OK, I'll Try This Again. Locksmith Wanted (wifi).

2011-04-26 Thread iJohn
On Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 5:50 PM, Yersinia yersi...@myfairpoint.net wrote:
 Anyway, I decided I didn't want those defaults. I want to use WEP open
 because it's best for my Trailing Edge equipment. I don't want to even
 try WPA2  because I'm scared sh*tless I'll end up locking myself out
 of my own network.  Hell, I locked myself out on my own porch in the dead of
 winter! :-{

To repeat for what it's worth, you simply can NOT permanently lock
yourself out of your network. The worst you can do is forget and lose
all the router passwords and need to go through the hassle of
resetting the router back to the factory defaults so you can go redo
the entire configuration process for the router and all your systems.
Extremely tedious, yes. A bricking of the router, no.

In the more likely scenario where you remember the admin password to
your router you can just plug an ethernet cable into your router (if
you haven't already) and then logon to router and change the Wi-Fi
security password to whatever you like. Again, tedious and annoying
but no more than that.

As long as you have physical access to your router you can always
configure it, one way or another. So don't worry about more than a
potential temporary lockout as a worst case scenario.

WEP is better than nothing. But it is just a screen door. Most folks
are either polite or easily discouraged and so won't breech a screen
door which is what Bruce's rational is counting on. But if you have
both a screen door and metal door with a security lock why not use the
stronger one? Why even bother with the one in a million risk of
encountering someone with no manners? I'm just sayin' ...

Of course, the other reason to use WPA2 is for those using 802.11n,
which is NOT the case here. The reason you would want to use WPA2 with
AES encryption with 802.11n is because if you don't then the  protocol
requires the router to limit the connection to 802.11g speeds. Or at
least that's what I've been told. Seems a rather odd requirement to
me, but it also strikes me a foot pushing on the butt attempt to
move people to a better security protocol.

-irrational john

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Re: PowerBook 500MHz G4 (original Ti) does not power on?

2011-04-10 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 12:04 PM, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote:
 Remove the main battery, plug in the adapter and see if you can boot.

Did that. Nothing happens.

On Sat, Apr 9, 2011 at 4:15 PM, JOHN CARMONNE carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 Put the main battery in and plug in the AC adaptor this may take 12 or more
 hours. Hold down the lower left three keys and the power button till you hear 
 a
 long beep and the sleep light flashes.

Tried this also both with the battery installed and without. Nothing.
Held down the keys  power button for at least 30 seconds.

After leaving the power adapted attached for over 12 hours, the
indicator lights on the battery still do not light up so the battery
appears to have no charge. The power adapter felt slightly warm, but
not what I am used to from my MacBooks adapter. I'd say it was
probably only a few degrees above ambient at most. So I'm thinking the
adapter may well be good, but unfortunately I still can't think of a
SAFE way to test it with a voltmeter. (I know me and test probes and
I'm certain I'd short it to ground if tried to poke at those inner
bands on the connector post.)

Not sure where to go next. Guess I'll try removing the screws on the
bottom. Probably try to see if there is anything about this system out
on iFixit before I do though.

Oh, FWIW, I FINALLY found the serial number on the unit. It's on the
right hand side of the battery compartment when the bottom of the
laptop is facing you and the battery compartment is closest to you. So
this IS a 500 MHz (PowerPC 7410) original Titanium power book
apparently manufactured on 14 March 2001.

-irrational john

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Re: PowerBook 500MHz G4 (original Ti) does not power on?

2011-04-10 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 1:26 PM, Clark Martin cm...@sonic.net wrote:
 Cut two lengths of wire.  Strip an inch or so off one end of each and wrap
 that end around the probes (or use alligator clips or stuff the wires into
 the banana jacks on the meter).  Strip 1/16 off the other ends and probe
 with these ends into the power supply connector.

I opted instead to remove the bottom panel and see if there was
anything exposed on the circuit board near the power port that I might
probe more safely (IMO).

I believe I found that because I got a reading of 23.75v i.e. 24 volts
DC which is what the power adapter is rated to deliver. So I'm calling
the power adapter good and concluding the power on problem must be a
result of something else.

No idea what that might be though. I didn't see anything that looked
like a PRAM battery when I took off the bottom panel so I'm guessing
you have to remove either the keyboard or the top panel or both to
access it. I don't know if it's worth the trouble to try that.

-irrational john

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Re: PowerBook 500MHz G4 (original Ti) does not power on?

2011-04-10 Thread iJohn
Just went back to iFixit.com. My understanding now is that the PRAM
battery is located underneath the optical drive. To access the PRAM
you have to remove the DVD drive, which seems a bit more involved.

The picture linked below is from iFixit. It shows the PRAM in the
upper left hand corner, underneath the optical drive. It's black and
shaped something like a rhombus with round corners. (The drive has
already been removed in this photo.)
http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/VlOkqKOCtXKaGZyl.large

Think I'll hold off on that for now and just wait to see if any other
comments or suggestions show up. I'm now wondering if the problem is
with the DC-in power circuitry on the logic board. If that's the case
then it's definitely beyond any tinkering I might do with it.

-irrational john

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PowerBook 500MHz G4 (original Ti) does not power on?

2011-04-09 Thread iJohn
I'm going to start by admitting I'm well out of my comfort zone on
this one so starting by asking for nudges in the right direction seems
the best way to go.

At the moment I'm looking at an Apple PowerBook 500MHz G4 (original
Ti), M7710LL/A, s/n QT1113VWJF8 for a friend.
www.everymac.com/systems/apple/powerbook_g4/stats/powerbook_g4_500.html

The above identification is made entirely by reading the label off of
the box the PowerBook came in. I believe it is accurate, but have
nothing else to compare it to since the unit won't power on and I
don't know where to look for identifying information on the PowerBook
itself.

What happens is I plug in and connect the power adapter, hit the power
key and ... nothing. This in itself is not that much of a surprise
since it's been stuck in its box in storage for a year or more.

I find it very frustrating that the design of the connector for this
adapter makes in impractical to test if the adapter is working with a
VOM. (Or so I've read. Certainly when I tried using a VOM I got no
reading, but apparently that's SOP for this adapter.)

I've tried the press and release of the reset button located on the
rear panel of the computer between the external video and modem ports,
waiting 5 seconds, then trying the power button again. Nothing.

Not sure what to try next. IIRC, one of the posts I stumbled across
(for a G3) suggested going under the keyboard and disconnecting the
PRAM battery. Pretty sure I don't want to head in that direction
without first getting a second or even third opinion.

Even if that is the way to go, if it turns out the unit needs a new
PRAM battery to function I'm not sure it is worth it to me or my
friend to pay the ~$28 to get a new battery. I just don't hear this
system calling to me in that way.

But I figure I owe it my friend to try to figure out as much as I can
about what the current usability of this PowerBook might be before
giving up on it.

-irrational john

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Re: PowerBook 500MHz G4 (original Ti) does not power on?

2011-04-09 Thread iJohn
On Sat, Apr 9, 2011 at 4:15 PM, JOHN CARMONNE carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 Common problem on the older TiBooks, If you have a main battery take it out,
 lift the key board,  under the and above the delete key is the CUDA switch,
 depress for 30 seconds, Put the main battery in and plug in the AC adaptor
 this may take 12 or more hours. Hold down the lower left three keys and the
 power button till you hear a long beep and the sleep light flashes.

Well, I am pretty sure that the CUDA or PMU (Power Management Unit)
switch on this PowerBook is located on the exterior rear panel between
the external video and modem ports not under the keyboard.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1431

But with that small change, I'll try you're suggestion John and we'll
see what happens. The person who originally had this PowerBook
supposedly did say charge it overnight, but I just blew that off
assuming it would still power up just from the power adapter. What a
silly goose I can be.

So to repeat just for the record I'm going to
1) Take out the battery and disconnect the power adapter.
2) Press the CUDA/PMU switch and hold for 30 seconds.
3) Replace the battery.
4) Connect the power adapter and let ostensibly dead PowerBooks lie
until tomorrow morning when I'll try the hold three keys + power
button thing.

To be continued then ...

And thanks again for the suggestions.

-irrational john

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Re: How do you view the system log on an external drive?

2011-04-03 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Apr 3, 2011 at 12:46 PM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:

 In Finder select Go to Folder.
 /Volumes/Name of drive as it appears in finder/private/var/log
 Double-click on 'system.log' there to open it in Console.


Thanks Bruce. That's certainly a lot easier to do than what I came up
with on my own. I used terminal to navigate to private/var/log on the
external drive and then opened up Console via
open -a /Applications/Utilities/Console.app system.log

Anyway ...

The system log lists (some of) the console messages I was seeing which were:

  137773 27:Apr  2 23:18:17 localhost ConsoleMessage: Selecting SymDC Extension
  137774 27:Apr  2 23:18:17 localhost ConsoleMessage: Starting timed
execution services
  137775 27:Apr  2 23:18:17 localhost ConsoleMessage: Starting kernel
event agent
  137776 27:Apr  2 23:18:17 localhost ConsoleMessage: Starting SecurityServer
  13 27:Apr  2 23:18:17 localhost ConsoleMessage: Starting Apple
Multicast DNS Responder
  137778 27:Apr  2 23:18:17 localhost ConsoleMessage: Initializing network
  137796 27:Apr  2 23:18:25 localhost ConsoleMessage: Checking disks
  137805 27:Apr  2 23:18:30 localhost ConsoleMessage: Starting Cornell
Authentication Services daemon...
  137807 27:Apr  2 23:18:30 localhost ConsoleMessage: Loading Shared
IP extension
  137808 27:Apr  2 23:18:30 localhost ConsoleMessage: Starting printing services
  137809 27:Apr  2 23:18:32 localhost ConsoleMessage: Loading IP
Firewall extension
  137813 27:Apr  2 23:18:33 localhost ConsoleMessage: Starting internet services

What I don't see in system.log is the final Login Window Starting
message that is on the screen when the boot appears to hang.

That last console message (above) is followed by the log messages below.

Apr  2 23:18:33 localhost xinetd[274]: 274 {init_services} no
services. Exiting...
Apr  2 23:18:34 localhost SystemStarter: The following StartupItems
failed to properly start:
Apr  2 23:18:34 localhost SystemStarter:/Library/StartupItems/SymDCInit
Apr  2 23:18:34 localhost SystemStarter:  - execution of Startup script failed
Apr  2 23:18:34 localhost SystemStarter:
Apr  2 23:18:34 localhost SystemStarter: The following StartupItems
were not attempted due to failure of a required service:
Apr  2 23:18:34 localhost SystemStarter:
/Library/StartupItems/TrackDelete
Apr  2 23:18:34 localhost SystemStarter:
/Library/StartupItems/VolumeAssist

Whatever is going wrong is not obvious to me. I can post more of any
the logs, but I didn't want to start out by just pointlessly
regurgitating data.

This is for OS X 10.3.9 running on an 800 MHz eMac. The system seems
to boot fine when booted from the internal hard drive. But it hangs
when I attempt to boot from a CCC bootable copy of the hard drive on a
firewire attached external drive.

-irrational john

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Re: How do you view the system log on an external drive?

2011-04-03 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Apr 3, 2011 at 2:04 PM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:

 On Apr 3, 2011, at 10:52 AM, iJohn wrote:

 This is for OS X 10.3.9 running on an 800 MHz eMac. The system seems
 to boot fine when booted from the internal hard drive. But it hangs
 when I attempt to boot from a CCC bootable copy of the hard drive on a
 firewire attached external drive.

 did you try safe mode? Is there a version of Applejack for 10.3?


Yes, I tried safe mode. Hung the same way.

I've never used AppleJack but it looks like it may be time to give it
a try. The current version doesn't go back further than 10.4, but
there is an old AppleJack for Jaguar+Panther version out on
sourceforge. I may try that.

I have to try to plan what I'm going to do before I work with this
system because there is no (usable IMO) internet access where it is
located. ;-)

FWIW, I don't think there is anything to see in the system logs. I
compared the log message from when the hung occurred to ones from a
successful boot from the internal hard drive and didn't see anything
obvious evil.

HOWEVER, it looks as though the hang occurs just when the startup
process is attempting to kick off a some program from Norton
Utilities. I'm tempted to just trash anything with Norton in the title
in the Applications folder.  It's a clone of the actual hard drive so
no permanent damage would be done ... ;-)

-irrational john

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Re: How do you view the system log on an external drive?

2011-04-03 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Apr 3, 2011 at 2:52 PM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:

 Nortons?? Delete this with extreme prejudice.


:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)

While googling about for info on SymDCInit, I found the except below
from a July 2006 post to an OS X help forum:

You've got TrackDelete and VolumeAssist installed on your computer.
These are part of Norton Utilities. These have absolutely nothing to do
with securing your computer, and everything to do with munging up your
computer and causing problems.

Please uninstall Norton Utilities. If you refuse to take the advice of everyone
on this thread in this regard, I don't know how we can help you.

OK, yeah. I'll think I'll try to do that then. Not sure whether to try
to let Norton uninstall itself or merely move what I can see to the
trash. I'm not sure what I might miss with the latter approach. I
don't like leaving dangling bits of an install behind.

-irrational john

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PSU specs for Apple Airport Snow White Dual Ethernet M8440?

2011-04-01 Thread iJohn
I've been looking for a USB modem that will work with the most recent
versions Mac OS X. I have a friend who currently uses the dial-up V.92
modem in her 800 MHz eMac for Internet access. I'm trying to plan
ahead if some day she moves to a Mac platform without a modem.

One suggestion was to not use a USB modem but instead go with one of
the earlier Airport base stations which included a modem.  So I
checked out what was available on eBay. Apparently it's common to sell
the Snow White Airport aka Dual Ethernet M8440 by itself and NOT
include the power supply unit.

From pics I've seen, I think that the M8440 uses an external PSU which
supplies 12V DC and at least 0.7 A using a center positive connector.
Can anyone confirm any of that?

I have no idea what the size of the connector may be. Heck, I don't
even know how to TALK about the connector size for these adapters.

(I usually just use trial and error to try to close in on the right size plug.)

-irrational john

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Re: PSU specs for Apple Airport Snow White Dual Ethernet M8440?

2011-04-01 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 11:20 PM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:

 That's what the label on mine says: 12VDC, 0.7A, center positive. Mine came 
 with a 1.25A third party brick, so anything 12V above 700mA will work.


12V, hm. Maybe it's time Google up those sites which explain
how to morph a PC power supply to accomplish another task. I've
probably got some for an AT motherboard which are never ever going to
be used again for their original purpose.

-irrational john

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Leopard on an 800MHz eMac (ATI)? (... and stuff)

2011-03-26 Thread iJohn
I find myself doing something I never expected to do, asking questions
about a G4 eMac. I have a friend who has an 8 year (or so) old eMac
(ATI). While I haven't actually moved the unit so I could read the
sticker (it's sorta bulky), I think it is an M9150LL/A with an 800MHz
G4.
www.everymac.com/systems/apple/emac/stats/emac_800_ati.html

I was wondering if anything other than performance might go wrong if I
moved her eMac to Leopard? Technically it doesn't meet the minimum
requirement of 867MHz, but it's not very far off. So if the only
concern is how well it might perform it seems like it's worth trying
it to find out.

I believe she's still running 10.3.9, Panther. I think she might be
using Internet Explorer as her web browser over a dial up connection.
(I'd love to move her to something faster than dial-up, but she can't
really afford anything much beyond the $10/mo she's paying now for
NetZero.)

The main reason I expect to be messing with this eMac in a rather
major way some day is because when I attempted to back up her drive
last night with CCC, it was (1) unexpectedly slow and, more seriously,
(2) there were drive read errors in the CCC log. So far the files the
read errors occur on are nothing important. But I'm thinking the 8
year old Seagate ST340015A 40GB drive in this eMac is due to die.
Probably sooner rather than later.

Oh, almost forgot. I'm not sure if it is still using the original PRAM
(?) battery or not. If so, that might also be on its last legs. If
some day ... sure as heck not going to be THIS month, but if some day
after I file my taxes I ever go inside the eMac to swap the hard
drive, it probably would be prudent to replace the PRAM at the same
time. Where do you folks go to buy those? About how much does a
replacement battery usually cost?

Dang! I started this note intending to ask only one question, maybe
two at the most. Oh, well.

-irrational john

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Re: Leopard on an 800MHz eMac (ATI)? (... and stuff)

2011-03-26 Thread iJohn
On Sat, Mar 26, 2011 at 1:08 PM, Joe Duran joe.du...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 I bought the batteries for $3.99 each at OWC, plus shipping.
 You can find them slightly cheaper but I wanted
 to make sure I got good fresh batteries.

While I always prefer cheaper, in this case I agree it's ridiculous to
quibble. Especially for an item you want to just work so you can
forget about it. ;-)

In my case it would be $6 + change. Fine.

Thanks for the pointer. I can't for the life of me figure out why I
didn't just look on OWC's site and not bother the list about this.

I think I'll try Leopard on an external drive just to see how it goes.
Thank deity. for Firewire external enclosures! If the only choices I
had were USB, then IMO I'd have no choices.

-irrational john

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Re: When you really need to erase data...

2011-03-13 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Mar 13, 2011 at 9:54 AM, Yersinia yersi...@myfairpoint.net wrote:
 However, if I was going to sell my hard drives,
 I would definitely 35-Pass erase them first.

Well, if it makes you feel better and you've got the time for it, then
why not? But my purely personal point of view is that it's a waste of
time and electricity.

Seriously, if anyone can post a link or other reference to some sort
of proof (or even plausible allegation) that even a government agency
has the resources  ability to extract data from a modern hard drive
that has been ONE pass erased, I'd love to see it. My understanding is
that the reason for the multi-pass erase scheme's is from fear of a
paranoid hypothetical worst case scenario.  (The IT equivalent of an
urban legend?)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Data_erasure#Number_of_overwrites_needed

The biggest potential threat continues to be for the likely many folks
out there who don't bother to write-erase *anything* when they dispose
of an old hard drive. Just doing a one pass erase of a drive puts you
way ahead in protection from identify theft  or whatever else may
lurking out there. (IMHO, of course.)

-irrational john

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Re: wireless signal theft

2011-03-09 Thread iJohn
FWIW, I think this link brings up the report the OP is referring to.
Sounds like they used the infamous Pringle's can exploit.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/21134540/vp/41985312#41985312

-irrational john

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Re: Timer

2011-02-27 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 4:46 AM, Bruce Ryan bruce.r...@mac.com wrote:
 ... why not get an old iPhone or iPod touch - built in timer and alarms,
 music while you cook, easily portable and won’t take up any work-surface
  space if you keep it in your apron pocket.

Hm, don't know if the estimates from www.everymac.com are spot
on or not. Just throwing them out there FWIW.

Apple iPod touch (Original) 8, 16, 32 GB Specs
Original Price: US$299, US$399  
Est. Current Retail:US$100-US$200
(The original 8 GB iPod touch was offered for US$299, the 16 GB was
US$399, and the 32 GB introduced February 5, 2008 was US$499.)

Apple iPhone (Original/EDGE) 4, 8, 16 GB Specs
Original Price: US$499, US$599* 
Est. Current Retail:US$125-US$200
(*The 4 GB version originally was US$499 and the 8 GB version was
US$599. On September 5, 2007, a mere two months after it shipped,
Apple discontinued the 4 GB model and dropped the price of the 8 GB
version to US$399. On February 5, 2008, Apple introduced a 16 GB
configuration for US$499.)

No doubt the smaller device is much more portable. But it's also
slightly more expensive than freeware at least from my perspective.

@John Carmonne, Which of your Macs where you thinking of enhancing to
function as an egg timer? ;-) Just curious.

-irrational john

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Re: Timer

2011-02-26 Thread iJohn
On Sat, Feb 26, 2011 at 8:27 PM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 Is there a timer I can get for my Mac that I can set to remind me audibly of 
 an elapsed amount of time to help with my cooking?

I've been using this one as an Alarm Clock
http://www.robbiehanson.com/alarmclock/index.html

I've never really used either the timer or stopwatch functions, but it has them.

It works to wake me up in the AM. Of course, all I do when I wake up
is turn it off and go back to sleep, but it does get me up.

-irrational john

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Re: Apple laptop advice

2011-02-24 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Feb 24, 2011 at 2:43 PM, Fluxstringer fluxstrin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Apple has just plain abandoned users who cannot afford 13-14 k as a
 base price for a laptop.

I'm confused. Did you mean to include a decimal point in that ball
park base price estimate?

The (Apple) prices I saw quoted for the new MacBook Pros were:

Apple MacBook Pro Core i5 Dual 2.3GHz 13 Notebook for $1,199
Apple MacBook Pro Core i5 Dual 2.7GHz 13 Notebook for $1,499
Apple MacBook Pro Core i7 Quad 2GHz 15 Notebook for $1,799
Apple MacBook Pro Core i7 Quad 2.2GHz 15 Notebook for $2,199
Apple MacBook Pro Core i7 Quad 2.2GHz 17 Notebook for $2,499

Perhaps I'm just misinformed. Are the prices above wrong?

-irrational john

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Re: Better bootloader

2011-02-24 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Feb 24, 2011 at 5:50 PM, nestamicky nestami...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks, Kris. Are you able to point me in the right direction to get the
 right version for Chameleon that will work on a PPC machine?

As you already pointed out, Chameleon is written to work for
Hackintoshes. In other words, Chameleon expects to interact with the
BIOS on a PC. Rewriting it to work with the Open Firmware (right?)
of a PPC I'm pretty sure would require a bit more than a tweak.

-irrational john

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Re: Better bootloader

2011-02-20 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Feb 20, 2011 at 11:00 AM, Nestamicky nestami...@gmail.com wrote:
 Is there a better way of getting the option to select which OS to boot to,
 in a dual boot (OS X 10.5 and Server) than holding down the Option key at
 startup? Perhaps a GUI bootloader that he could select from?


Not sure what you're looking for. Have you looked at the Startup
Disk settings under System Preferences? Would that work for you?
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.6/en/8240.html

-irrational john

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Re: Would you trust this ebay seller?

2011-02-19 Thread iJohn
On Sat, Feb 19, 2011 at 1:59 PM, Al Poulin alfred.pou...@gmail.com wrote:

  If you are willing to spend $286, look here for a used Mac mini
  G4/1.25GHz for $199.99, plus shipping, but no disks included.
  The e-mail bulletin said 10.5 Leopard is pre-installed.

 Oh, oh, forgot the link:
 http://www.smalldog.com/product/77343


OK, but ...

When I followed your link the price I saw at Small Dog was $299.99, not $199.99.

Also, I'm not immediately seeing how 10.5 Leopard can be pre-installed
if no disks are included. Unless they mean discs as in the install
DVD media is not included. If that's the case it makes more sense but
it also adds another potential wrinkle to the purchase.

-irrational john

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Re: Mac Mini HDD speed

2011-01-23 Thread iJohn
On Sat, Jan 22, 2011 at 3:36 PM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:

 If I use an external 3.5 7200 RPM via Firewire 400 will I gain speed over the 
 internal HDD 4200 RPM in my Mac Mini?


That's a hard one to guess at. But my guess would be no, I don't think
you'd see a gain. Or if there was one, it would not be as large as you
hoped. When you connect via Firewire 400 you will never be able to
move data faster than Firewire 400's 400Mbps bus speed. I suppose it's
possible that a 7200 RPM drive would still appear to perform faster
than an internal 4200 RPM, but I wouldn't count on it.

More to the point, I feel fairly confident that you would not really
be able to tell the difference between a (recent) SATA 5400 versus
7200 when connected via Firewire 400. In other words, if you're going
to go with a Firewire 400 external drive I'd suggest going with a 5400
drive and save a few bucks. With the recent improvements in platter
bit densities over the last year or two, the throughput of 5400 drives
has increased noticeably. The difference between 5400 and 7200 is not
as noticeable especially when you put that 400 Mbps cap on the drive
throughput.

On Sat, Jan 22, 2011 at 4:28 PM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:

 Newegg has a large selection of them including large accompanying prices.
  http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENEN=18120%20600038505IsNodeId=1name=PATA


Anyone care to do the math on what percentage of the current market
price of a PPC Mac Mini those PATA SDDs might be?  ;-)

It is NOT how fast any particular component of a system may be which
determines the performance of a system. It's the sum of all the
components ... the system itself ... and how they are used ... the
applications and OS. In my opinion buying an SSD for a PPC Mini is
just throwing money away. If you can afford to throw money at an SSD
you'd probably get more bang for your buck by upgrading to a later,
Intel version of the Mac Mini. But to each their own ...

-irrational john

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Re: Help Me Please!

2010-12-29 Thread iJohn
On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 9:52 AM, Stephen Conrad khel...@gmail.com wrote:
 2) I tried to eject a CD and no go. Which key ejects CDs? If that does not
 work how can I manually eject this CD?

A while back (August ??) someone had a post on the G-3-5-list which
explained how to add an eject icon to the OS X top menu bar.

The instructions were to look in System\Library\CoreServices\Menu
Extras and double click on Eject.menu. This should add an eject icon
to the menu bar which you can use to eject a disc.

As for rebooting, I'm confused. Does pressing the power on/off button
no longer bring up the shutdown dialog?

-irrational john

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Re: Help Me Please!

2010-12-29 Thread iJohn
On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 11:44 AM, iJohn zjboyguard-ggro...@yahoo.com wrote:
 As for rebooting, I'm confused. Does pressing the power on/off button
 no longer bring up the shutdown dialog?

DUH! I'm an idiot. Here I am explaining how to add an eject icon to
the menu bar and I completely forget that there is also a Shut Down
selection in the Apple icon's pull-down menu. Guess I'm just too used
to using the power button to do it ...

-irrational john

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Re: Password protect

2010-12-15 Thread iJohn
On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 12:28 PM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:

 This works by default with multiple accounts. Fast switching has nothing to 
 do with it.
 You don't need to take any action to prevent user's home directories from 
 access
 (even as an admin user).
 
 There's no need whatsoever for separate partitions.


With respect Bruce, I think you might be completely missing the point, .

Why use a mechanism designed to separate user data and other settings
when you come up with your own mildly convoluted ad-hoc exploit of the
file system permissions to probably achieve sorta the same purpose?
Where's the fun in that? ;-)

-irrational john

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Re: Help! External HD vanished from desktop

2010-12-03 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 4:00 PM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:
 What CAN be done is sending it off to a drive recovery place like DriveSavers.
 It's quite pricey, though: last time I checked, Drive Savers starts at $750 
 for
 recovery, and goes on up to about $2500 for normal jobs.

Hence that old quip, Only YOU know how valuable your data is.

I wonder, does the $2500 cover the cost of one of their techs
disassembling the drive in a clean room and trying to tease bits off
the bare platters? (Do they even still use that approach or has the
retrieval technology moved on to other approaches?)

-irrational john, whose data is mostly probably not even worth the
cost of the drives I buy ;-)

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Re: Ungrateful Apple abandons older Mac service

2010-12-02 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 12:18 PM, Thunder 1 thunder...@mindspring.com wrote:
 It was suggested here that you put the new drive in a box and use it
 as an external drive; I agree that would be a good approach. At the very
 least, you could copy all your files to it and then delete the stuff that is
 filling up the internal HDD.


Aside from the (most likely) higher throughput you'd get from
attaching the new drive via the internal PATA bus versus externally
via Firewire (or USB if your eMac supports it), there is another
consideration.

Recent hard drives, even PATA drives, are much faster than the drives
made at the time the eMac was built. The newer drives use higher bit
density platters which means they can move more data for same physical
distance the platter travels.

Attaching the drive externally and cloning/copying the existing drive
would be a good place to start. But if you can find a way to attach
the drive internally then I think you're likely to notice the system
will feel a tad faster.

Out of curiosity, what new 500 GB drive did you order from OWC to
swap into the eMac? Which model/generation of eMac would you be
working on? I see that the eMac's PATA controller range from ATA-66 up
to ATA-100 depending on which one you have.
www.everymac.com/systems/apple/emac/index-emac.html

Also, for what it's worth here's yet another link to another
description of how to replace the hard drive in an eMac. This one is
from www.everymac.com.
www.everymac.com/systems/apple/emac/faq/emac-replace-or-upgrade-hard-drive-expansion.html

-irrational john

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Re: Dead Drive? - Group Reply.

2010-11-21 Thread iJohn
On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 1:10 PM, Gottick International i...@gottick.com wrote:

 The old one had a jumper. ;-) And I put it in the same spot on the new drive.


Not sure if there ever was a resolution to this or not and I'm curious.

As was previously pointed out, just copying the jumper settings from
an old drive to a new one is not a good way to go. Did you try
removing the jumper and seeing what happens with this drive? Have you
tried attaching it as an external drive via USB or firewire?

-irrational john

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Re: Dead Drive?

2010-11-21 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Nov 21, 2010 at 1:36 PM, Gottick International i...@gottick.com wrote:

 By all the experts here putting jumpers on this drive is not the way to go.
 At least I was told so.

I would agree with that. As was also previously mentioned, the main
reason for the jumper was because during the early days of SATA
implementations some controllers did not correctly implement the
auto-negotiation of the connection speed. As time passed and these
controllers passed into history, the jumpers appear to have gone away
or used for other purposes.

At any rate, correctly implemented SATA should not require any jumpers
on a SATA drive at least that's my understanding.

 Right now the dirve shows up every other time (yes)
 on Disk Utility and can not be partitioned or erased. DiksU claims that the
 500 GIG drive is 446 GIG.

Well that doesn't sound right. If it were me I would attempt to narrow
down where the fault might be.

If returning it to the place you purchased it from is not an option,
then I would see if the drive fails to work in either another system
or as an external drive.

If you can go back to a retailer then do so. I would assume they would
probably test the drive themselves but they may just replace it for
you. (I haven't bought hard drives other than by mail order in so long
that I really have no idea what a retailer might do in this
situation).

In any case, I would suggest you do find out what is what soon. If the
drive IS bad then the longer you wait the harder it may be to get
whomever you bought the drive from to replace it. You could most
likely still replace it under the manufacturer's warranty, but not as
easily. (And I don't think you could be assured you'd be getting a new
drive as a replacement in that case).

-irrational john

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Re: Flash only? WAS:Re: IS the world about to change ?

2010-10-26 Thread iJohn
On Tue, Oct 26, 2010 at 3:14 PM, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote:
 In fact, many of the hybrid drives are even more limited than I've
 represented in this thread.

WHAT other hybrid drives?? I'd appreciate a pointer towards them
because the only hybrid I'm am aware of at the moment is Seagate's
Momentus XT.

-irrational john

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Re: Change computer icon

2010-08-31 Thread iJohn
On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 1:09 AM, Kris Tilford ktilfo...@cox.net wrote:
 ... but now the model of the Mac and the serial # of the Mac
  were placed into a file (I assume a binary info.plist that's not easy
  to locate or edit) ...

A somewhat related digression for the original topic ... Editing a
binary info.plist can be (easily IMO) done with the Property List
Editor app included as part of the XCode Integrated Development
Environment (IDE).

The entire IDE is a free with registration albeit rather large
download from the Apple site. I think but do not know that it is
included on the  Leopard and Tiger retail DVDs. Not sure whether it is
on the install media included with a Mac. I never looked.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xcode

Perhaps there are also other (binary) property list editor apps out
there. I never bothered to look since the Apple provides has always
been more than sufficient for my needs.

FWIW,

-irrational john

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Re: Recommended bootable external Firewire drives for G4 MDD Dual-1Gb

2010-08-17 Thread iJohn
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 1:45 PM, onelucent oneluc...@mac.com wrote:
 These are compact, come in much larger sizes than the early days
 and can be purchased with 7200 rpm mechanisms.

FWIW, using a 7200 RPM drive as a USB 2.0 or even FW 400 attached
external drive doesn't really buy you anything extra.

Unless you use eSATA, USB 3.0, or FW 800 the throughput of the drive
is going to be limited by the bus used to connect the external drive.
It's sort of like buying a performance car that you know you'll only
drive around town and never take over 45 MPH.

I don't think there's any reason to pay extra for 7200 RPM if you know
you'll only use it in a context where the performance of a recent 5400
RPM with high bit density platters could be just as good.

-irrational john

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Re: IBM HDD clicking

2010-07-09 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Jul 9, 2010 at 10:51 AM, t...@io.com t...@io.com wrote:
 My partner just had a Seagate 320GB Go Drive fail on her -- just
 clicks when I hook it up.

Was the drive inside the enclosure actually a Seagate drive? I vaguely
remember people claiming to have opened up a Seagate external and
finding some other manufacturer's label (Toshiba?) on the drive
inside. I wouldn't expect Seagate to do this, but who knows? Seagate
certainly does strongly insist that a customer NEVER open up its
external drives ... :-)

With external drives that are powered from the USB bus it's always a
good idea to make sure that it is not a power issue. My Seagate Go
will not attach if I use a USB cable that is too long, but so long
as I use a short cable it still seems to work fine.

Haven't seen anything seriously troubled in the SMART data either
other than a Reallocated Sector Count of 35. While this is not
special. But so long as it doesn't continue to increase it's just a
sign that the firmware error recovery is doing what it was designed to
do.

Sounds like you had that covered though since you removed the drive
and powered it from an external supply, yes? I assume the Seagate Go
was out of warranty? Because if Seagate can determine you opened it up
they probably would refuse to replace it under warranty. I believe the
Seagate Go's have a five year warranty, not three.

-irrational john

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Re: IBM HDD clicking

2010-07-09 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Jul 9, 2010 at 11:08 AM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:

 That's because the stock drives are 5400 rpm, or worse, 4200 in the earlier 
 models of MacBook, iirc.

 The biggest nobrainer in ordering a new Mac is to upgrade to the 7200 rpm 
 drive...


It's also because they are just plain slow compared to even more
recent 5400 RPM drives. I ran a Windows benchmark tool, HD Tune Pro
v4.5, against the OEM 160GB Hitachi HTS542516K9SA00 which came with my
early 2008 white MacBook. I then compared that to the results for the
500GB Hitachi 5K500.B I upgraded the MacBook to.

Both are 5400 RPM drives, but the newer drive benefits from higher
track density due to tech which allows higher bit density platters.

   160GB Hitachi versus (newer) 500GB Hitachi
Sequential Read;   Max56.2 versus   79.3
  (MiB/sec)Average   45.2 versus   61.0
Min 28.9 versus   24.2
Burst Rate   98.0 versus 194.7

Looking at how the newer drive is faster on the outer tracks, I'm
debating whether to bother revisiting my old cliche of partitioning
the drive so the OS is on the faster outer tracks and just data
(mostly videos I haven't watched yet) is on the slower inner tracks.
Oh, well. Something for another day maybe.

-irrational john

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Re: IBM HDD clicking

2010-07-09 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Jul 9, 2010 at 2:42 PM, john CARMONNE carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 What determines the position of the partitions on the faster portion of the
 HDD?

Drives store data on the outer tracks of the platter first, moving in
towards the center as you store to higher numbered blocks/sectors.

Referring to the graphic used in the partition section of Disk
Utility, partitions closer to the top of the screen are on outer
tracks. Moving down towards the bottom of the screen implies placement
further down the disk and on the more inner tracks of the
platter(s).

At least that's how I've always understood how it works.

The difference in the sequential access rates arises because the
tracks on the outer edge of the platter have a higher tangential
velocity than those nearer the center. (Simple playground
merry-go-round physics)

It can be argued that one will never see enough of a performance gain
to be worth the hassle of dividing a drive into two partitions and
constantly worrying about how to juggle your data between them. But
since I'm one of those folks who likes to fiddle with their computer
just for fiddling's sake, it's something I might try just for the sake
of trying it.

-irrational john

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Re: IBM HDD clicking

2010-07-09 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Jul 9, 2010 at 3:00 PM, john CARMONNE carmo...@aol.com wrote:

  For fear of sounding dumb. Just what does a person do with the magnets?
 Where are they in the drive.


Strictly FWIW (... which obviously ain't all that much ...)
http://superuser.com/questions/36340/what-to-do-with-old-hard-drives

-irrational john

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Re: More power to keyboard/mouse please!

2010-07-05 Thread iJohn
On Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 2:15 PM, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote:
 At 8:45 AM -0700 6/30/2010, Jeffrey Engle wrote:

 here's the question: has anybody on the list tried using one
 of those dual USB connections to provide extra power instead
 of the USB hub?

 Not sure how that would work.  You'd be stealing, or at least trying to
 steal, extra power from the bus that already can't handle the load of the
 longer cable run and the devices connected.

My understanding is that the whole point of the dual USB was a way
to try to sneak around the current limitations imposed on each port.
If each USB is limited to 500mA then using two theoretically bumps the
ceiling to 1 A.

How well this would work in practice when dealing with whatever causes
the losses in long cable runs, well I never did have any intuition for
electric circuits.

I think it's simpler to just use a hub ... or migrate to USB 3.0 ( 3 
2 therefore all scenarios will work better. ;-)

-irrational john

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Re: OSX is a 32-bit operating system?? is this true??

2010-06-18 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Jun 18, 2010 at 7:47 PM, ah...clem boneheads...@gmail.com wrote:
 i've just been informed by a reliable source that OSX is a 32-bit
 operating system, and because of that, no application can address more
 than 2GB of RAM.

Well, no. Your reliable source is apparently not so reliable. The
complete answer is ... as always ... actually more complicated and
involved. You'll no doubt get more of it in follow-up posts.

But certainly there is no OS X 10.6 (Snow Leopard) there is no limit
imposed by the operating system that limits an application to 2GB of
RAM.

BTW, that 2GB limit for a 32 bit address strikes me as more of a
Windows limit, not OS X. I think a 32-bit OS X app can actually
address up to 4GB. Not positive so we'll see if I get shot down in the
follow-ups.

-irrational john

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Re: OSX is a 32-bit operating system?? is this true??

2010-06-18 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Jun 18, 2010 at 8:15 PM, ah...clem boneheads...@gmail.com wrote:
 ok, well this *clueless wanker* is Dr. Warren Hehre, developer of
 Spartan and numerous other scientific computing apps, who has been
 writing apps for MacOS for the past 20 years.

Oh, great. At first I thought he was just an idiot, but it now appears
he is a very intelligent and highly capable, competent, and
accomplished idiot. Those can be trying to one's patience.

I would guess he's wrong in a very general sense but very right in a
very specific probably technical sense. Especially so about what
pertains to his programs. Do you have any more details about what he
specifically said needed to be updated?

FWIW, I was Googling about for potentially informative comments about
OS X bit-ness and look what popped up near the top of the Google
search list.
A blog piece by Dan Knight back on 2009.08.19 titled The 64-Bitness
of Mac OS X 10.6 'Snow Leopard'.
http://lowendmac.com/musings/09mm/64-bit-snow-leopard.html

 i have a spiffy new 3.3
 GHz 2010 Mac that came with SL 10.6.3 factory installed, and i also
 have the latest version of Spartan, which cannot access more than 2GB
 of RAM.

Perhaps his complaint is related to the fact that many of the Intel
Macs are currently still booting the 32-bit kernel rather than the
64-bit kernel. My MacBook is also in this situation. But perhaps,
unlike my MacBook, your spiffy Mac is one of the ones which can be
coaxed into booting the 64-bit kernel by holding down the 6 and 4
keys during startup. If so then possibly you would be interested in
booting that way and seeing if it makes any difference to this app,
Spartan.

Or perhaps Dr. Hehre's concern is something else altogether. Either
way I hope we eventually get a better understanding of just what it is
he means. Because in general he is wrong. Even running the 32-bit
kernel any application that is written as a 64-bit app should be able
to address more than 4GB of RAM. (Assuming some other physical
restriction in the system does not prohibit this).

Or at least that's my understanding now. Admittedly there aren't a
heck of a lot of apps out there which would ever actually test the
32-bit memory limits. The more typical benefits of moving to 64-bit
mode are slightly faster execution due to the larger number of
registers in the CPU. (And probably other stuff ... ??)

-irrational john

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Re: OSX is a 32-bit operating system?? is this true??

2010-06-18 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Jun 18, 2010 at 11:43 PM, ah...clem boneheads...@gmail.com wrote:
 how can you tell if it's booting the 32-bit kernel or 64-bit kernel?

I look at what is listed in the System Profiler under Software

The image below is from the article at the 2'nd link.
http://macperformanceguide.com/images-SnowLeopard/Verify64bit.gif
http://macperformanceguide.com/SnowLeopard-64bit.html

Didn't look at the entire article that closely. But IIRC the info
about looking in System Profiler to check which flavor of the kernel
you are using is correct.

-irrational john

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Re: to scsi or not to scsi?

2010-06-16 Thread iJohn
On Wed, Jun 16, 2010 at 12:32 PM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:
 We just spent $18K to upgrade our tape backup systems to (barely) keep up 
 with our ever
 increasing file server space; we really need to spend $30K on a disk-disk 
 system.

I would also be interested in appropriately vague and incomplete
details about your tape backup. :-) Just curious.

A non-profit I volunteer at has a Windows PC server which is
(guessing) around 5 years or so old. I think it has 200 to 400 GB of
SCSI attached storage.

Like clockwork once a week their office secretary plops in the oldest
of box of 5 or so backup tapes and backs up the drives. I believe they
have been doing this since they got it. It is likely they have *never*
replaced any of the tapes.

One of these days those hard drives are going to die and then we'll
find out whether or not they have actually backed up their server
data. Or not.

They have one other firm IT maintenance policy. Never, ever power off
the server. Not even to apply Windows security updates.

I have tried to warn them. I think the reaction was something along
the lines of, H, that doesn't sound good ... OH LOOK! A KITTEN!.
What'cha gonna do?

So, anyway, I'm curious how folks who might actually want to preserve
their data might approach this. ;-)

-irrational john

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Re: to scsi or not to scsi?

2010-06-16 Thread iJohn
On Wed, Jun 16, 2010 at 2:11 PM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:

 Sadly, this is how most places like this learn the lesson, the hard way.

 I'd try very hard to prevail upon them to at least invest in new sets of
 tapes and, suggest, gently that they practice restoring some files from
 backup, now, while everything is fine, so that they're not doing this for
 the first time when the system's gone down and people are screaming
 for their data, pounding on your door with pitchforks and torches.
 Pitchforks and torches are very distracting and not optimal for learning new 
 things :-)


I would but I fear I have no credibility with them.

I did try about a year and 1/2 ago to get them to try to make some
steps towards more rational sys admin. I thought I had convinced them
to reboot the server on a work day when they were routinely closed to
the public so they could apply the pending Windows server security
updates.

However, when the day rolled around I was told the reboot had been
vetoed. Why? Well, because of what the young fellow with the BA in
Human Resources who had tried to deal with IT stuff had told them
before he left for another job. He told them that they should Always
leave the server running. Never turn it off.

They viewed not rebooting their Windows server as a prudent move that
would save them from potential trouble. A Why take the chance? sort
of thing.

Seriously.

I think that they view maintaining computers in much the same way that
many of us maintain the plumbing in our homes. Use it but otherwise
ignore it until it stops working. Then pay an exorbitant amount of
money to a professional to come out on a Sunday and fix it. Will
they be pissed when it hits the fan? Sure. But I think this is just
how the world works from their perspective. One of those things that
like the weather you really can't do much about and just have to live
through.

As I said, they are a non-profit funded by donations. I hate to see
the money wasted. But I also don't know how to reason with people who
view maintenance as what you pay someone to fix after you have
pushed a system to failure. :-(

Oh, well. I digress ...

-irrational john

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Re: Apple Store closed for update

2010-06-15 Thread iJohn
On Tue, Jun 15, 2010 at 6:10 AM, Kris Tilford ktilfo...@cox.net wrote:
 In the future you can check with MacTactic or similar Mac buyer timing
 guides:

 http://mactactic.com/


It looks to me as though mactactic.com is itself in dire need of an
update. It lists the MacBooks as all not having been updated since
2008. Excuse me?

-irrational john

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Re: New unibody Mac Mini (was Re: Apple Store closed for update)

2010-06-15 Thread iJohn
On Tue, Jun 15, 2010 at 5:20 PM, Len Gerstel lgers...@gmail.com wrote:
 Remember, Apple is a software company. The hardware is
 just the (officially) only way to run the software.

That one mad me laugh.

No, Microsoft is a software company. Apple is ... well, Apple is
whatever it is they are. But they are certainly not just a software
company.

Maybe you could say Apple is a product company. They don't really sell
either hardware or software per se. They sell the premise that the
whole is greater than the sum of its parts. And they do this quite
successfully, no?

-irrational john

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Re: Will PowerPC be forever obsolete?/ RICH Text

2010-06-14 Thread iJohn
On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 2:08 AM, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote:
 You are a fluke of the universe.
 You have no right to be here.
 And whether you can hear it or not,
 The universe is laughing behind your back.

For some reason the part that always stuck in my mind was

Take heart in the deepening gloom
that your dog is finally getting enough cheese.
And reflect that whatever misfortune may be your lot,
it could only be worse in Milwaukee.

But then again, I grew up in Oconomowoc so Milwaukee was not just a name to me.

For those who might not have caught the reference ...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deteriorata

-irrational john

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Re: Will PowerPC be forever obsolete?

2010-06-13 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Jun 13, 2010 at 6:43 PM, Justin The Cynical
cyni...@penguinness.org wrote:

 The problem is that your evidence is something that is easily faked, and
 you claiming to have done something that shouldn't be possible.


Finally a more rational, even tempered response. Thank you!

My attitude is pretty much the same. I have no idea what Mark has done
one way or the other nor do I really care all that much either. But
what he is claiming doesn't jive with my personal experience and
education. So I remain unconvinced.

To use an analogy that someone will no doubt immediately punch holes
in, it's as though Mark was claiming he'd taken a used GM gas engine
car and by modifying only the code in the engine's computer it now
runs on diesel and gets 4 to 5 times the original mileage.

It seems improbable. BWTHDIK? Oh, well.

-irrational john

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Re: USB 3.0

2010-05-30 Thread iJohn
On Sun, May 30, 2010 at 10:54 PM, Kris Tilford ktilfo...@cox.net wrote:
 Microsoft has such pull that USB3 will certainly have a lot of vendor
 support even if LightPeak beats it all around. It could be the USB/Firewire
 battle all over again?

Why on earth do folks associate Microsoft with hardware standards?
Microsoft is a software company. I don't see why they'd be for or
against the adoption of hardware unless there were also significant
software issues involved.

My understanding is that USB is and always has been one of Intel's
babies. Microsoft has no skin in that game other than they have to at
least not get in the way of supporting USB 3.0.

Apple actually has a lot more latitude than Microsoft since they
control what is or is not allowed to work in their systems. But I
expect you will see USB 3.0 showing up on Mac's simply because they
will be using Intel chipsets. And since USB is Intel's, their chipsets
*are* going to support USB 3.0.

And then sometime after all this we may move yet again to LightPeak
... Have to keep selling that hardware ... :-)

-irrational john

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Re: Power Mac G5: how to repair a broken PSU?

2010-05-21 Thread iJohn
You mentioned you had a repair shop near you. One of the things you
might ask them about is how much it would cost just to test your power
supply. (I suppose you should be ready with some model info so they
know which power supply you are using?)

For the ATX power supplies used in a PC (and I'm guessing now also
used in Intel Macs ??) there are inexpensive test devices available
these days. You plug the power supply into them instead of the
motherboard and see what the go/no-go idiot lights have to say.

Unfortunately I doubt you've got that alternative available to you
with the PSU for a PPC Mac. The resources at this repair place you
mentioned might be your best bet provided they don't price gouge you.

-irrational john

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Re: Power Mac G5: how to repair a broken PSU?

2010-05-21 Thread iJohn
On Fri, May 21, 2010 at 2:32 PM, Mac User #330250 macuser330...@gmx.net wrote:
 A friend of mine has a good source for capacitors and will help me with this.
 I will start with the PSU and hope that the logicboard is not affected.

Be aware that removing, testing, and remounting capacitors from a
printed circuit board is delicate and tedious task.

On a more positive note, many multimeters (even the cheap ones that I
own :-) now include the capability to test capacitors. I've never used
it myself so I don't know anything about it other than that it is
there. But if you pull a capacitor from the board you should be able
to test it rather than just guess as to whether it is damaged or not.

It still strikes me as a LOT of work. I'd definitely file it under
last resort.

 But it's good to know that there are “normal” and
 “switching” PSUs.

Actually, FWIW my understanding it that all desktop computers use
switching PSUs. They are much more efficient as well as lighter and
most importantly I expect they are now cheaper to manufacture.

If you're curious there's always
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply (or Google, of
course).

-irrational john

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Re: Locked drive?

2010-05-19 Thread iJohn
On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 1:53 AM, JOHN CARMONNE carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 I never did any thing with NTFS that I'm aware of, I stay away from Winbloze
 like a plague. Maybe just the presence of the drive enabled it?

That doesn't sound likely.

Just to be sure about what we are dealing with here, did you do a Get
Info on the drive and see what it says for Format for this drive?

-irrational john

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Re: Locked drive?

2010-05-18 Thread iJohn
On Tue, May 18, 2010 at 7:26 PM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 I've made the new library put the drive will not let me
 write to it. It's a 32Fat I need to put this new library on it.

How does the write error show up? My understanding is that FAT32 lacks
any sort of a file access control other than simple-minded attributes
such as Read-Only or System. So other than having  the directory
or files marked as read-only ... which you should be able to undo
simply by flipping the attribute ... I'm not sure how you could not
have write-access to the drive or file system.

-irrational john

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Re: Locked drive?

2010-05-18 Thread iJohn
On Tue, May 18, 2010 at 10:46 PM, Kris Tilford ktilfo...@cox.net wrote:
 There may be one or two other commercial solutions, but the final
 word is that you'll need to install one of these in order to be able to
 write to this NTFS HD.

While not directly related (or useful) in any way, on the side note of
supporting NTFS file operations on a Mac, the latest Seagate external
hard drives also do this.

Apparently Seagate decided that it was easier to have all their drives
come pre-formated as NTFS and just support using NTFS in OS X than to
maintain a separate line of drives which came formatted as HFS+.  I
suppose it does simplify their inventory.

Seagate FreeAgent GoFlex Family marketing page
www.seagate.com/www/en-us/products/external/external-hard-drive/

It's interesting (to me) how NTFS has been slowly but surely opened up
by persistent reverse engineering.

-irrational john

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Re: Allowing a Windoze 7 Laptop to Access my Wireless Network

2010-05-14 Thread iJohn
On Fri, May 14, 2010 at 6:33 AM, Bill Connelly billycarm...@verizon.net wrote:
 It also allows something called WPA, a preshared key for home network and
 Wireless MAC Address Authorization.

When it comes to security my understanding is that WPA2 is better than
WPA is better than WEP.

As I've said in the past, no one worries about whether or not WEP can
be cracked. It's well known this can be done. The ethical hacking
contests these days focus on how quickly it can be done. 'Nuff said.

In case it's not clear, MAC Address Authorization is not specific to
Apple Macs. The MAC in this context is the Media Access Control
address, the low level hardware address of any device on a wired or
wireless ethernet network.

If this MAC filtering is enabled it could be the problem. It would
allow only devices with specific network MAC addresses to join the
network. It's easy enough to test. If MAC filtering is on, turn it off
briefly and see if that allows the PC to see and join your wireless
access point (SSID). If that works then addd the PC's MAC address to
the list of those authorized by the router and turn filtering back on.

-irrational john

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Re: I need advice on esata external

2010-05-13 Thread iJohn
I'm not sure exactly what you're asking, so apologies for posting some
thoughts  questions which many not be helpful.

On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Baha Ata baha...@gmail.com wrote:
 I got a powerbook and macbook pro... I have been using 2.5 inch
 external e-sata discs with express and pcmcia cards... My home folders
 on external e-sata discs while my system remain on internal discs.

This is just a tedious point of English usage. In my experience it's
much more common to use disc or disk with talking about optical
media such as DVDs or CDs. In this case you appear to be talking about
storing to 2.5 and/or 3.5 hard drives, not about optical discs.
Sometimes folks will refer to a hard drive as a disk, but the term
hard drive is IMO much clearer. Just a FWIW for possible future use.

 What you recommend or think on my usage...

Huh? To repeat myself, I am not sure what you are asking about here.

It sounds like you already have an eSATA external enclosure and SATA
drives which you successfully use with it. So what sort of information
were you hoping to get from the members of this list?

 Lately i am thinking on put 2 fast and big HD on my 3.5 inch esata
 cases... and replica with my 2.5 inch mobile devices... For faster
 speed but no mobility.

You would want to get drives with the newest tech ... by which I mean
using disk platters with the highest bit density ... for the best
performance. What size drives you go with is a separate question which
would depend on other factors such as how you intended to use the
larger drives. Whether or not to use 7200 or 5400 RPM depends more on
the performance of your eSATA adapters and the systems themselves.

7200 RPM will be somewhat faster. Whether or not it will be SO MUCH
faster that you notice a difference between them ... especially with
the older tech in the powerbook ... is a question I cannot answer.
There are other factors beyond the performance of the hard disk
itself. How fast is the memory (RAM) bandwidth? How much of the
theoretically available SATA bandwidth can the PCMCIA/Express card
adapter use?

If it were me, before doing anything else I'd try pulling the SATA
drive from the MacBook and booting it via eSATA. That would give you a
rough idea of what the experience might be like. I'm frankly not sure
you'd see a performance increase which was big enough to justify the
hassle of messing around with the external drives. (On the other hand,
if you just want to play around for the fun of it, then that's a
different matter, no? ;-)

 How can i make it happen? Any replication software exist
 for this kind of home folder replication in between discs?

Every other time I remember this question coming up someone
immediately jumps in to recommend the free version of CCC (Carbon Copy
Cloner). I suppose such loyalty is a good recommendation in and of
itself. I googled that phrase and here's (I think) a link to its web
site.
http://www.bombich.com/

While you can certainly use the free version) CCC, you don't need too.
You can use Apple's Disk Utility in both Leopard (OS X 10.5) or Snow
Leopard (OS X 10.6) to clone/copy a partition to another drive. When I
installed a larger hard drive on my MacBook this is how I migrated my
existing Leopard installation from the old to the new disk. I booted
form the old drive and then used the Restore function in Disk
Utility with the old drive as the source and the new drive as the
destination. Then I booted the from the new drive to verify it hard
worked.

Worked great and I didn't have to bother with installing any other
software. My personal opinion is that CCC appears to make more sense
if you intend to create and then continue to update a (bootable ??)
backup image of your drives rather than for doing a one-time copy of
your image to another drive.

-irrational john

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Re: I need advice on esata external

2010-05-13 Thread iJohn
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Baha Ata baha...@gmail.com wrote:
 Lately i am thinking on put 2 fast and big HD on my 3.5 inch esata
 cases... and replica with my 2.5 inch mobile devices.

By the way, a question you did NOT ask but which I personally would
wonder about is whether it would be possible to create two (GUID)
partitions on a single large eSATA attached hard drive and copy/clone
the OS X 10.5 from your powerbook to one and 10.6 from your MacBook
Pro to the other partition and boot from either one depending on which
system you were using.

I think the answer to this question is no because I do not think a
powerbook could boot from a GUID partitioned hard drive. But I'm not
100% sure so I thought I'd bring it up to see what the others had to
say.

-irrational john

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Re: Allowing a Windoze 7 Laptop to Access my Wireless Network

2010-05-13 Thread iJohn
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 10:17 PM, Bill Connelly
billycarm...@verizon.net wrote:
 His machine see's my wireless connection SSID, so is it my Mac that isn't
 configured just right?

Is this the Win7 laptop which sees your Wireless Access Points (WAP) SSID

-irrational john

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Re: Allowing a Windoze 7 Laptop to Access my Wireless Network

2010-05-13 Thread iJohn
On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 11:49 PM, Bill Connelly
billycarm...@verizon.net wrote:

 May be this would be better asked on a router forum?


You could try the General Wireless Discussion section of
http://forums.smallnetbuilder.com You'd find limited experience with
Mac's there, but they would understand the windows and router side of
things. Of course, like all forum boards it requires you to register
before you post.

Why are you using WEP? Is that all the Versalink router will support? :-(

-irrational john

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Re: quicksilver 933 fried by power loss

2010-05-12 Thread iJohn
On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 10:13 PM, ll mlitwin3...@att.net wrote:
  We  lost power yesterday. My quicksilver has been on a really
 good surge protector for two years. It wasn't enough this time
 however. If I push the on button,a light shows,flickers and dies. The
 machine never turns on. I am assuming my hardrive is fried. Am I right
 in assuming that I would have to replace the harddrive  and re-install
 the os?

The surge from power being restored is nothing that should cause any
of the electronics in your home a problem. If it were, then you'd
expect to find other casualties, no?

What you're describing to me doesn't sound like a hard drive failure
... or at least not the type of failure I'm familiar with. I don't
know if it is an option in your case, but what I would do is remove
the hard drive, mount it in an external enclosure of some kind, and
then see if I could access the files on it.

Frankly if all that happened was losing power and having it restored,
I would also wonder if you Mac is really dead. I suppose the power
supply could be dead, but I'd at least walk through some of the basic
reset procedures that have been mentioned on this list in the past.
What have you got to lose?

Though I suppose to be on the safe side you should try to save
anything on your hard drive before playing around with your Mac. If
you can access the data on the drive, back it up before doing any
other fiddling ... just in case.

-irrational john

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Re: ESATA IN PM G5

2010-05-06 Thread iJohn
On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 8:50 AM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:

 I wonder what may be wrong here i have an extenal drive WD 1TB drive and
 I have a Firm Tek card in a G4 MDD Dual 1.25 and a card in a PM G5 Dual  2.7
 I can't get the drive to mount on either machine. It mounts fine with the USB 
 and
 FW 800 ports. Firmware doesn't seem to be an issue. Is there a possibility of 
 a bad drive?

If the drive were bad it would not be usable with USB and FW.

I would suspect either a bad cable or a bad/loose cable connection to
the either the drive or the eSATA port.

Are you using an internal SATA cable or eSATA? Did you reboot the
machine after attaching the drive?

-irrational john

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Re: ESATA IN PM G5

2010-05-06 Thread iJohn
On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 2:44 PM, john CARMONNE carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 On May 6, 2010, at 11:41 AM, Len Gerstel wrote:
 On May 6, 2010, at 1:46 PM, john CARMONNE wrote:
 I'm using an eSATA cable and I did reboot both machines.

 Is it known good?

 I just opened the pack for the first time. I've had it for about a year. Are
 there different ones?

My personal experience with eSATA has been mixed. When it works it's
great. When it doesn't, I really am never all that sure what's wrong.
Rather than troubleshooting it, I'm usually more just fiddling around
to try to get it to work.

I've always assumed that the problem is most likely in one of three places:

(1) The SATA controller which in my case is usually the chipset on my
(PC) motherboard. This is usually the last thing I worry about mostly
because if it is bad, then I assume I would have problems in all drive
situations, not just eSATA. This can be tested just by attaching
another drive or even by removing the drive you're having a problem
with from the eSATA enclosure and connecting it using an internal SATA
data  power connectors.

(2) The controller/bridge chips in the external enclosure. Again, I
hope it's not this because it would be a beast to track down and
verify.  The only way that occurs to me to approach it is by process
of long  tedious elimination.

FWIW, I do sometimes try power cycling the enclosure on the off chance
there was a race condition when things were supposed to initialize ...
something you'd hope would never happen at this point in computing
hardware history ... but who knows?

(3) The cable or the cable connection. Since the cables I have are
usually all included for free with some other accessory I bought, I
assume they are made the cheapest way possible and thus are for me the
most suspect. However, I think as often as not it's just some sort of
bad connection. Removing and replugging the cable or even just
jiggling it can sometimes be enough to get a proper connection.

As an example, I just powered up an external enclosure which is eSATA
attached. The drive was not recognized. After tinkering with some
other things I eventually pulled the eSATA cable from the enclosure
and replugged it. This caused the drive to be recognized. Go figure?

If fiddling with the cable doesn't help and you have access to another
eSATA cable, I would at least try it. Possibly you might be able to
coax the manufacturer to send you a replacement cable? Miracles
sometimes happen, no?

IMO, the more I fiddle with it, the more eSATA ... and SATA connectors
in general ... feels like one of those nifty ideas that was released
without thinking it through and/or refining the prototypes enough.
Probably an inevitable problem when the companies that sell the tech
are also responsible for the specs. They're more concerned with
getting something out the door than with making it more bullet proof.
:-(

-irrational john

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Re: No apple dvd player

2010-04-30 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 9:34 PM, Kris Tilford ktilfo...@cox.net wrote:
 If you don't have a supported DVD drive the OS X installer doesn't install
 DVD Player.

If that's true it does not make any sense to me.

First, I rarely ever use the DVD player to play a DVD which is in the
optical drive. Usually I have the ISO of the DVD on my hard drive and
OS X very conveniently mounts it which allows me to play it with DVD
player. So DVD player is still of value (to me) even if there is no
optical drive attached to the system.

Second, if you don't have an optical drive, how did you get OS X
installed in the first place? (Yes, you can extract the install media
to a DMG image and install from that, but how many folks actually
bother to do that? Would it really be worth the trouble to modify the
OS X install process to mess with such a nit?)

-irrationally confused john

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Re: slow flash drive

2010-04-29 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 12:09 AM, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote:
 dd if=/dev/zero bs=1024 count=1048576 of=/Volumes/MyUSBstick/gigabyte.file

I went with Dan's method ... it just seemed easier. Can't say why though. ;-)

For my 2008 white MacBook 500GB Hitatchi hard drive:
write: 37.7 MiB/sec
read: 41.9 MiB/sec

For my USB attached 16GB Diesel flash drive:
write: 14.3 MiB/sec
read: 34.7 MiB/sec

FWIW both are formatted as HFS+.

I'm sort of surprised that my MB's hard drive isn't a little faster,
but shrug. Sometime I should pull it and run HDTune (or such)
against it on my WIn 7 desktop to see if it's the drive or ...
whatever.

The flash drive results also seem about right. Forgot to mention that
one of the other characteristics of current flash memory is that
reading is often much faster than writing. (In this case apparently
over 2x as fast to read versus write).

-irrational john

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Re: slow flash drive

2010-04-29 Thread iJohn
FWIW, since I wanted to move an AVI file from my MacBook to one of my
desktop hard drives, I measured the transfer speeds of the old 1GB
Verbatim flash drive I used to move the file. (Would that be circa
2005?? I don't remember when 1GB was the current cheap flash
capacity).

write:  5.2 MiB/sec
read: 12.2 MiB/sec

As I said, transfer rates change with time as well as price. :-)
shrug They still beat the heck out of a 1.44 MB floppy diskette, no?

-irrational john

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Re: slow flash drive

2010-04-29 Thread iJohn
On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 9:31 PM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 Hi a\All
 I'm moving a 1.25 GB file from one machine to another and this thing ... took 
 about 30 mins.,

I should have done the arithmetic long before this, but unless you're
way off on your numbers. 1.25 GB in 1800 seconds is only 0.71 MiB/sec.
Cheap flash would be slow but I wouldn't expect it to be THAT slow.
You should be getting at least single digit MB/sec transfers.
(Shouldn't he?)

Perhaps you could test read/write speeds using either Dan or Bruce's
suggestions?

I mean for pity's sake, that's less than 5.7 Mbits/sec. The USB 1.1
spec at 12 Mbits/sec would be faster than that.

-irrationally long winded john

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Re: [Bulk] Re: Question about Tiger DVD Install Disc???

2010-04-29 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 6:41 PM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:
 However, Windows phones home with the info and serial
 number when you connect to the internet.

Yes, when you authenticate. If you don't authenticate then after some
period (30 days?? for Win 7??) then as you say, it turns into a
pumpkin. And admittedly it'll probably be a damn nuisance to use
before that by nagging you to authenticate.

 OS X disks do not contain ANY sort of serialization, a fact that can be
 confirmed if you have access to two retail install disks of the same OS:
 they're identical.

My understanding is that the same thing is true for Windows 7 DVDs.
You get the same DVD whatever  version you buy. Which software is
installed and enabled from the DVD depends on what serial number you
enter. (What you get before you enter a serial number I have no idea.
Who has the patience to waste time trying to find out?)

 Remember:
 http://tinyurl.com/26rd5rg

The thing that I never see people talk about is that everything
Microsoft does by way of authentication is neither free nor a one-time
expense. They continually pay to support their authentication
function.

Obviously there is the cost of keeping the authentication servers
running and paying for the people who answer the authentication line
phones. (Though last time I did this that also was automated). They
also pay to develop all this crap and to constantly tweak and tune it
because it's so damn annoying to their customers. And of course it has
to always be tested and tested and tested again.

Tangible and intangible, there are a lot of non-trivial costs to
keeping the whole mess up and running. Microsoft must have decided ...
to the extent any company can make a decision about a way of doing
business that has so much history behind it ... that the benefit is
worth the cost.

Apple doesn't have to. They just sell the discs and don't waste money
on tracking how those discs get used. It's a big PITA and distraction
that Apple is not burdened with.

Looking at Apple's growth I believe that this decision hasn't hurt
their profitability in any way. If the folks at Apple ever change
their mind about this, then you'll see them do something to control
over how many different machines a single copy of OS X can be
installed on. Maybe they'll go the MS route or maybe something
completely different. But they'll change if they think it's costing
them serious money if they don't change.

Apple doesn't trust or not trust their customers. We're not on some
fantasy honor system ... though I infer enough people who buy OS X
discs have been honorable enough. It's just not worth that much to
Apple to be annoying PITAes about the OS X installs. And I thank
deity. for that!!

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] Re: Question about Tiger DVD Install Disc???

2010-04-29 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 7:58 PM, Bruce Johnson
john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote:
 People buying upgrades and folks setting up a handful of DIY boxes for their
 business or something run into these hassles, but frankly, these people are
 small fry, and MS doesn't really give a crap about them.

Actually, I also believe not so much but from a different perspective. :-)

I have limited experience with PC notebooks. In particular I don't
know how Microsoft does Windows 7 notebook (re)installs.

The last PC laptop I reinstalled XP on (using the media that came with
it) I don't believe even bothered to ask me to authenticate. At the
very least the install media appeared to just know that the install
was to an HP notebook, hence the Windows tax had been paid, so there
was no need to bother about asking for a license key. (The key was
there on the sticker on the laptop if needed. But I'm pretty sure I
never had to enter it).

If the vast majority of Windows installs were all the PC world
equivalent of reinstalling the version of OS X that came with a
MacBook then I doubt MS would bother with the hoops. But Windows folk
still have to dance through those hoops so I infer that MS thinks it's
financially worth it to them to keep polishing them.

I'll grant you that individual home user upgraders, DIY boxes, and/or
small businesses are probably not as big of a concern for MS. But if
you're going down authentication avenue you can't do it in pieces.
Aside from special cases such as notebooks with special install media,
it's all installs or nothing, no?

Probably MS's main concern is preventing an entire IT installation
from (re)using a pirated install key. But there's also the so-called
BRICs ... Brasil, Russia, India, China and such. The thought/hope of
turning even a fraction of the Windows piracy in those countries into
actual revenue must be, uh, an exciting thought for the MS
accountants.

Microsoft appears to me to be obsessed with two conflicting goals: to
limit Windows installs to one machine per paid license and to not
annoy their customers unless said customers are from MS's perspective
trying to steal from MS.

It's got to be a lot of (costly?) work on their end. And I believe
they wouldn't bother with it unless they thought the company
benefited.

Which is not the same thing as saying the company DOES benefit from
it. I'm only saying I think MS has convinced itself that it's worth
doing.

And I think when Apple does that calculation they must be getting a
different answer.

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] Re: Question about Tiger DVD Install Disc???

2010-04-29 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 8:16 PM, Albert Carter slvrmoonti...@yahoo.com wrote:
 This is not true. The only thing that is different about the distribution of
 Windows 7 from XP and Vista is that the DVDs contain both the 32-bit and the
 x64 version of code. There are still individual discs for Home Premium,
 Professional, Ultimate, and Enterprise.

Really?

Then how does the MS Anytime Upgrade work? Say I wanted to take my
version of Home Premium to the Ultimate of Foolishness. Supposedly I
go online and purchase a license for Ultimate, then enter the new
license key, and poof I'm upgraded. You may think they're going to
download all the changes to the OS via the Internet, but that is not
my understanding of how it works.

I have no way to test this personally though since there is no way in
heck I'd ever upgrade my flavor of Win 7.

But you were also indirectly correct in pointing out an error I made.
Actually my retail copy of Windows 7 Home Premium upgrade has two
DVDs. One DVD is for the 32-bit flavor and the other is for the
64-bit. My bad.

-irrational john

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Re: slow flash drive

2010-04-28 Thread iJohn
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 9:57 PM, JOHN CARMONNE carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 I just never had one so slow, I thought they're all the same in that respect.

No, Non-volatile aka flash memory comes in lots of different speeds.

The reason why a 32 GB Intel SSD can run you around $360 is because it
claims to support read speeds up to 250 MB/s and write up to 170 MB/s.
(Speeds which FWIW I'm not sure that older systems could reach even if
you found a way to install it).

So, yes, cheaper usually means slower with flash. It's relative over
time, of course, as what is currently the cheap technology changes.

Last year when prices were lower for whatever reason, I got a 16 GB
USB 2.0 flash drive for around $17 (I think) and it's not too slow.
But there are faster flash drives out there. I've just never needed
the extra speed enough to want to pay for it.

(Out of curiosity, is there a freeware (enough) tool for Mac's that
can be used to get a rough measure of the read (write?) speeds of a
drive? It's easy enough to get a ballpark guess figure these days with
Win 7 by just moving files and asking for details. I don't know how
to guess at transfer speeds in OS X though ... except by copying a
file and measuring the time by watching the clock.)

-irrational john

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Re: Apple Ram/warranty question

2010-04-23 Thread iJohn
On Fri, Apr 23, 2010 at 3:06 PM, Jeffrey Engle macgu...@gmail.com wrote:
 when I buy ram from most other venders, I get a lifetime warranty what
 about that Apple ram that I buy with my new apple, let me guess
 Applecare runs out, so does my warranty?

That's what I've always assumed. When I swapped out the original 2x1GB
RAM modules in my 2008 MB to replace them with 2x2GB ones, the RAM
which came with the MacBook seemed pretty much generic RAM to me. But
I'll be watching to see what other replies you get to your question.

FWIW, if you have no problem with your RAM during the 3 year AppleCare
period, then I wouldn't expect it to fail during the useful lifetime
of your Mac. I don't believe RAM wears out from use. Or at least not
in any way that matters to a typical user.

A lifetime warranty is a nice selling point, but, of course, I
figure it also depends on who is offering the warranty. That's really
the primary reason why I now tend to buy only RAM that comes from a
company which I have more confidence will continue to be around to
honor the warranty during that lifetime of use.

-irrational john

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Re: I have an idea...

2010-04-20 Thread iJohn
On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 1:41 AM, Mark Sokolovsky coolmar...@gmail.com wrote:
 I do see a way that I can take the code from Leopard and put it in snow 
 leopard.
 Then integrate Rosetta into the system to run the intel programs.

So you're thinking you are still going to use a lot of the Leopard
kernel for OS X but run some (??) of the app only (??) parts of Snow
Leopard using Rosetta?

Sounds like a project if you're into that sort of thing.

The memory that comes to mind is of a YouTube video of OS X hacked to
run on a Pentium 3 vintage laptop. The video pretty much just ran for
a few minutes showing a mostly unchanging boot screen. Eventually the
guy shooting it lost patience and just shut it down before the boot
even finished.

Lot's of things of technically possible. Heck, in theory you could run
Snow Leopard on a Turing Machine, no?

 It's a longshot, but it just might work. Would that be illegal?

Good Gravy! What in the world of corporate code is NOT illegal these
days? I expect just looking at an OS X install disc and thinking
inappropriate thoughts is illegal.

A more pertinent question is would anybody care enough to come after
you? There's no way to answer that for certain, of course, but I doubt
it. Not unless you succeeded beyond your wildest expectations AND
widely distributed the result. Even then Apple might not bother if it
turned out there were enough hoops to jump through that it discouraged
all but a small fraction of folks from actually using what you had
hacked together.

Apple ain't Microsoft. They have a different list of things they are
obsessively paranoid about.

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] Re: Safari 4.0.5 memory leak?

2010-04-09 Thread iJohn
My personal take on Dan's post is why can't the SAFARI folks at Apple
investigate the problem, verify the source, and, if appropriate, open
up a problem with WebKit. Was some law passed while I was napping
which prevents development organizations from trying to get bugs fixed
in critical external components their project depends on?

I can maybe see why they'd rather someone else did their grunt work.
But if their work depends on a component then I'd expect them to be
pushing hard(er) to see that whatever is broken gets fixed. Who in
particular is going to be doing the fixing feels more like a
sub-issue.

I'm just saying ...

Oh, well.

-irrational john

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Re: Power Crunch ?

2010-04-08 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 12:25 PM, Frank Dutra fdut...@gmail.com wrote:
 Will I be OK as far as the OEM power supply goes, and if not, would removing
 the 2 ATA drives help?

How many drives do you have? I'm only counting four.
 OEM 30 GB ATA HD
 plus additional internal 40 GB IBM ATA HD
 1 Tb Hitachi 7200 rpm  SATA drive off a 2 port internal SeriTek152 PCI card
plus the your new Western Digital 2000 GB

(I assume the 2 external drives use a separate power supply.)

Assuming/overestimating around 15 to 20 watts per drive thats 60 to 80
watts. (Though it's almost certainly less than that).

FWIW, you could get a better idea of your actual power needs by
shelling out the $20 or so for a Kill-A-Watt and then seeing how much
your G4 draws with different combos of the drives connected.

What's your power supply rated at? (What does it say on the label?)

-irrational john

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Re: Power Crunch ?

2010-04-08 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 1:13 PM, dc dbc...@verizon.net wrote:
 If you are no longer using SCSI devices you could pull the old Adeptec
 card.

I didn't even notice the mention of the Adaptec OEM SCSI PCI until
your note made me look for it.

I also cannot see why he would keep that installed since it doesn't
appear the OP is using it??? Curious.

-irrational john

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Re: Power Crunch ?

2010-04-08 Thread iJohn
On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 6:36 PM, Stewie de Young stewies...@hotmail.com wrote:
 John, I have a Seritek 1S2 in my Digital Audio with a 36Gb Raptor and a
 250Gb Seagate attached to it.
 I have OS10.4.11 installed on both and they are both bootable.
 And as you say not all PCI SATA cards on a Mac can boot from the attached
 hard drives.This one you can however.

That sounds like good news for the OP.

I believe the OP said he has a SeriTek 152 not a 1S2 ... though
perhaps that was a typo?? (I tried a google search of the
www.firmtek.com site for Seritek 152 but didn't get any (useful)
results).

-irrational john

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Re: would this router work?

2010-03-28 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 6:12 PM,  janespra...@comcast.net wrote:

 An ad for Office Max today shows a D-Link Wireless-N 150 Home router for
 $39.99. Would this work for her? I'll be doing the set up, so what would I
 need to know? (I've only done Airports before.)


The frank truth as I see it is that ANY router should work with a Mac.
The main advantage you get with going with an Airport is that it
should be easier to set up because Apple should have set things up
that way. But a router is pretty much a router is a router. If you
understand how to set up a TCP/IP network they aren't all that hard to
work with.

Unfortunately I can't know whether or not it would be a good match for
you and your friend because I am not good at understanding what other
people will not understand. There should be no problem interoperating
with the Macs though. Because your friend is trying to enable older
Macs which use older wireless protocols there may be speed and/or
connection range concerns.

Does your friend want to connect the G4 ibook using wireless? If so,
what sort of distance from the Wireless Access Point (i.e. the router)
would the iBook be when used? How many and what sort of obstacles
(walls usually) would the single have to get through?

FWIW, positioning the WAP/router as high off the floor as you can and
as close to the center of the area you want to cover will usually give
you the best results.

Some things which may (or may not) be of interest about the D-Link
DIR-601 Wireless N 150 router.

1) It is a single stream wireless N router. That's what the 150 in
the title is (probably) about. One way to think of this is that it is
a crippled version of 802.11n. It costs less because it does less and
thus is cheaper to build.

The theoretical (aka unattainable) max speed of a typical 802.11n
connection is 300 Mbits/sec (or 37.5 MB/sec). (The best I've seen with
my early 2008 white MacBook is ~50 to 70 Mbits/sec).

For a single stream device you can cut that in half. The unattainable
max is 150 Mbits/sec. I'd guess the most you'd actually get would be
around 25 to 35 Mbits/sec. Plenty fast enough for web surfing I would
expect. Just be aware that this is not a full 802.11n wireless
you're considering getting.

2) There are two flavors of this router. The earlier version was the
D-Link DIR-600 which according to D-Link's web site was End of Life on
01 Dec, 2009. The current version they are selling is the DIR-601.
http://www.dlink.com/dir-600 (end of life)
http://www.dlink.com/dir-601 (current)

3) The wired ethernet ports on this router do NOT support gigabit
ethernet. They are 10/100 Mbit/sec only.

Don't know if it will help you or not, but here's a link to an article
on smallnetbuilder.com about deciding which wireless router to get.
www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/30905-how-to-buy-a-wireless-router-short-version

-irrational john

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Re: would this router work?

2010-03-28 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 9:24 PM, Bob Whiton m...@rswhiton.com wrote:
 You don't need a router to share an internet connection between two Macs.
  Just turn Airport on for both Macs, and enable internet sharing over
 Airport on the Mac that's connected to the cable modem.


Yes, but that implies that the iMac (?) will always be powered on
whenever the iBook needs to access the Internet. The iMac is in this
case acting as the router for the local network.

Routers usually use less power than an iMac will when left powered on
24/7. (I pay around 16 cents a KWH so how much electricity I use is a
concern for me. For others, maybe not so much.)

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] Re: would this router work?

2010-03-28 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 10:10 PM,  slvrmoonti...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I leave my computers running 24/7 if they aren't actually being used the 
 power is minimal.


Not for all of us. Depends on how much you pay for your electricity (
... and I suppose on whether or not you care how much your electric
bill is. :)

Assuming my desktop system uses around 100 watts then if it is left on
24/7 I'd pay around an extra $10 a month which is $120 a year. The
cost of keeping a router on 24/7 is probably 1/10 of that.

(It's been awhile since I've plugged my D-Link DIR-655 into a
Kill-A-Watt so I'm not 100% sure of my numbers. But I don't think I'm
that far off either.)

Of course, my parents and aunts and uncles all grew up during the
Great Depression. So I grew up with the silent expectation that one
would NEVER leave a light on in an empty room. :-)

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] Re: would this router work?

2010-03-28 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 11:05 PM, Jane, (Portland, OR)
janespra...@comcast.net wrote:
 Bob, she doesn't have an Airport. She doesn't have any type of router
 at the present time. But are you saying that she can share internet
 connection WITHOUT having an Airport? In other words, her iMac,
 connected to the cable modem, can give the iBook internet without the
 iBook having any physical connection

Jane,

I believe that Bob was using the term Airport in the (annoying to
me) way that Apple uses it, as another term for wireless. Apple also
refers to the wireless client support in their computers as Airport.
It's not just used to refer to the wireless routers.

And yes, you can enable the iMac to act as a simplified router/bridge
to the Internet. I assume her cable modem is connected to the iMac via
wired ethernet. If that's the case then I think what she would do is
to share her connection from Ethernet to computers using Airport. (To
use the terms I see in System Preferences Sharing on my MacBook).
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.6/en/8156.html

It might be a good place to start just as a proof of concept. One
thing that concerned me is that it looked like the strongest wireless
encryption supported was WEP (Wired Equivalent Privacy). This is an
old protocol and frankly it doesn't provide any meaningful protection
if someone wanted to hack into her network. How much of a risk that
might be depends on where she lives and who and how close her
neighbors are.

Of course, if there is any risk at all that someone else might be able
to connect to her wireless network then although WEP sucks, it is
still better than nothing.

FWIW,

-irrational john

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Re: Airport Extreme Base Station failure?

2010-03-27 Thread iJohn
On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 9:58 AM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 This happens to my Time Warner Cable modem about twice a month. I
 have to reset the modem and go through the reconnection process.


Process?? There's a process?? To reset the Motorola SURFboard(c)
SB5100 modem that Time Warner insists I rent from them I just unplug
it, blink a few a times, then plug it back in and wait for the
connection lights to settle down.

If you want to go the extra mile, make sure the router WAN ethernet is
NOT connected to the modem until the modem thinks it has successfully
connected to whatever it is that is upstream of a cable modem. Not
sure this actually matters, but it can't hurt and it's how the cable
company says to do it: Bring the modem up all the way first, connect
the router to the cable modem and then power the router up.

In my case Time Warner's DHCP remembers the MAC address of whatever
last device successfully connected to their network. My guess is that
this is their crude way of preventing more than one computer/router
from being connected to their network at the same time.

In practice it means that if you switch the device connected to the
modem you either have to wait some period of time (5, 10, 15, 20
minutes ??) before connecting another device with a different MAC
address. Either that or clone the MAC address of the last device.

(My understanding is that cloning is illegal so I always just wait
through the timeout period ... ;-)

My SB5100 has a standby mode button. If yours also has a feature
like this make sure the modem's standby indicator light is NOT on. It
should have an indicator light for online (or such) to indicate a
successful modem connection. (Though as I said, you also have to make
sure your cable companies DHCP will accept the MAC address of your
device and assign it an IP address).

-irrational john

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Re: OT - to UPS or not to UPS

2010-03-27 Thread iJohn
On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 11:07 AM, Jeffrey Engle macgu...@gmail.com wrote:
  now what about that AppleTV?

I've never even been (knowingly) in the same room as an Apple TV so
all I have is a question. Does an Apple TV have a power down cycle
which it goes through when you turn it off? Or when you flip the power
switch does it just immediately go dead?

If the former, then maybe you care. If the latter, then I don't see
what a UPS would buy you.

I guess my first question should be does it have a power switch or do
you turn it off by unplugging it?

-irrational john

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Re: Older Airport with OS 8.5

2010-03-27 Thread iJohn
On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 5:01 PM, Robert Long texasche...@hotmail.com wrote:
 some one mentioned to me that I could connect to the G3 by connecting
 with an ethernet cable to the G3 and get on the internet.

How would your older Airport connect to the Internet? Not that this
matters in and of itself. I'm just trying to make sure you understand
that you would have to have that part of the puzzle working in order
to connect your G3 to the Internet via your older Airport.

How old is your older Airport? Got a model number or some other way we
could look up its specs?

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] Re: To Journal or not

2010-03-23 Thread iJohn
On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 2:17 AM, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote:
  It's quite possible that the problem with his son's machine Spotlight being
 foo - totally re-building the index each time the drive is mounted.

The easiest way that occurs to me ... (possibly there are easier
ways?) ... to check if Spotlight is causing this problem is to turn
off Spotlight indexing for those drives.

Open Spotlight in System Preferences and add the external drives to
the Privacy tab. That should turn off indexing for those drives.
(The drives will of course need to be attached to the machine so that
they can been seen by OS X in order to exclude from indexing).

Since your son's machine is using Snow Leopard I would hope it's not a
case of Spotlight being fooed up. But WTHDIK?

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] Re: Hard drive failing

2010-03-22 Thread iJohn
On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 12:02 AM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:

 The seagate site includes Apple and all the OS's as tabbed choices while 
 filling
 out the online form, so the Apple PC issue are no problem

That sounds good, but I'd still appreciate it if you could update this
thread with your experiences going through their RMA process. I've
never had to do it myself and I'm curious how it will turn out for
you. Especially since you won't (right?) be able to give them any
feedback from their SeaTools diagnostic tool.

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] Re:Hard drive failing

2010-03-22 Thread iJohn
On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 2:20 PM,  carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 Also can the SMART be verified via a eSATA external enclosure?

Yes. eSATA is effectively a SATA connection to your computer using
hopefully a better shielded eSATA cable. If you can get your computer
to recognize the eSATA drive then you should be able to perform any
function you could with any of your other SATA (or PATA) drives.

 One good thing about Seagate is the 5 year warranty, no receipt necessary.

Yes, no receipt is necessary, only the serial number. But, as has
already been pointed out, the warranty period depends on where Seagate
considered the drive to be in their product line and thus on Seagate's
view of the market segment the drive is targeting.

For a while Seagate was offering a 5 year warranty on all of their
regular consumer drives. I have one or two of these and they are
nearing the end of their warranty period.

However, a year or three ago (not sure of the date), Seagate reworked
their warranty periods. Now their regular drives have only a three
year warranty just like the other drive manufacturers. I believe the
common practice now is to reserve a five year warranty for the more
expensive, supposed commercial/enterprise drives in a manufacturer's
line. It's now one of the reasons to supposedly persuade you to pay
more for those drives.

I have no idea what sort of nonsense the drive manufacturers have come
up with for the warranty on their external enclosures. Part of the
reason I've never bought one of those is because I saw the warranty
period listed as just one year on some of them.

One year?!?! Are they kidding me?

I figure it makes more sense to purchase an OEM drive with a three
year warranty and mount it in an external enclosure I purchased
separately.

My take on the post about the used drives purchased from the swap
board having zero years warranty is that if you separate the drive
from its enclosure ... or possibly just open the enclosure in a way
that can be detected by the manufacturer ... then In the
manufacturer's opinion you have voided the warranty. Not an unheard of
practice. But IMO it's yet another reason to avoid these pre-packaged
external enclosures from the drive manufacturers.

But maybe that's just me.

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] To Journal or not

2010-03-22 Thread iJohn
On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 10:02 PM, JOHN CARMONNE carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 I read some where that a journaled
 drive can be slower than one that's just Mac OS extended.

Sure, technically the extra time to journal would slow it down. But I
doubt you could tell the performance difference without some sort of
measurement software.

If you really want to know why not just test it? Install whatever is a
good hard drive performance analyzer for a Mac and then format and
test the drive both ways.

 I ask because my
 son has two of these large drives and his boot time can be really long and
 we were told it's because the journaled drives are a drag on the system.

This doesn't sound like a very plausible explanation to me. It sounds
more like someone grasping at straws rather than admit they don't know
what's happening. Unfortunately without more details about your son's
system and what happens on it when it boots, I doubt anyone do more
than guess as to why it is booting slowly.

Out of curiosity, what type of drive does your son's computer boot from?

FWIW, I would also recommend enabling journaling unless you actually
do discover an astoundingly large performance gap by benchmarking the
drive. Better safe than sorry IMO.

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] Re: To Journal or not

2010-03-22 Thread iJohn
On Mon, Mar 22, 2010 at 11:37 PM, JOHN CARMONNE carmo...@aol.com wrote:

 The problem we have is as time goes on the Mac takes a long
 long time booting, If we disconnect the externals it boots right up.

If HFS+ journaling was the problem then you'd see it all the time
since (I'm guessing) the boot drive on the iMac uses the journaled
version of OS Extended. (I would expect that is how Apple ships it).

I would think the problem is with something else. Is there an app
which starts when the system boots which might be trying to
catalog/scan the (video?) files on the externals?

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] Re: Hard drive failing

2010-03-21 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 1:02 PM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 I removed the drive and put it in an external enclosure an connected it
 to my PM G5 Dual 2.7 and it functioned properly except I can't verify
 S.M.A.R.T. because its IDE and the G5 is SATA.

Most likely the reason you can not access the S.M.A.R.T. data has
nothing to do with IDE versus SATA but is a consequence of using an
external enclosure.

(FWIW, I'm not sure what you meant by the above. Are you implying that
the hard drive you are having problems with is a PATA drive? If that's
true and your G5 is SATA, then how were you using the drive in your
G5?)

Unless you are using eSATA, you won't be able to access the S.M.A.R.T.
data. My understanding is that there is no support in (the current)
protocol used to attach an external drive via USB to retrieve
S.M.A.R.T. data. I'm guessing (but don't know for certain) that this
is also the case with firewire attached external drives.

This is extremely annoying (to me) but I don't know of any way around
it if you use USB to access the external drive.

I remember reading a vague comment once that some extension to the
mass storage attachment protocol (?) was planned which would allow
accessing S.M.A.R.T. data from USB attached drives. I'm not holding my
breath waiting for it to show up. (Maybe it'll work with USB 3.0? One
can dream, no? :)

-irrational john

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Re: [Bulk] PATA to SATA conversion

2010-03-21 Thread iJohn
On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 2:40 PM, John Carmonne carmo...@aol.com wrote:
 I have a G4 Dual 1.25 MDD with a sick HDD and I think I should
 convert from PATA drives to SATA as suggested by a lister but I
 don't know about the SATA cards like which one is good also the
 MDD has four HDD bays.

Another possible way to go that might work for you is to use a simple
SATA to PATA adapter dongle card instead of a SATA PCI card.

I'm thinking of one of the small converters which has the SATA
connectors on it. For example/pictures only, something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/SATA-PATA-Drive-Interface-Adapter/dp/B002Y2NI4M

(For some reason these are harder to find than the ones designed to
allow connecting a PATA drive to a SATA port.)

-irrational john

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