http://www.guardian.co.uk/pakistan/Story/0,,1730227,00.html
Pakistani society looks other way as gay men party

· Homosexuality 'thriving' despite strict criminal code
· Marriage and cultural factors offer camouflage

Declan Walsh in Lahore
Tuesday March 14, 2006
The Guardian


A ban on kite-flying failed to dampen the spirits of party-goers in
Lahore at the weekend, where hundreds of parties took place to
celebrate the age-old Basant festival. But one gathering stood out.
Under a starry sky filled with fireworks, about 150 gay men clambered
to the roof of an apartment building for an exuberant party. Bollywood
music spilled into the streets as dress-wearing men twisted and
whirled flamboyantly.

Some older men with moustaches and wearing traditional shalwar kameez
stared silently from the sidelines. But most of the party-goers were
in their 20s, dressed in jeans and T-shirts, and looking for a good
time. "We just want to have fun," said one of the organisers, known as
the "hot boyz".

Homosexuality is taboo in Pakistani society, where sexual orientation
is rarely discussed and the gay rights debate is non-existent. Sodomy
is punishable by up to life in jail, and religious leaders condemn gay
men as an aberration of western corruption.

When President Pervez Musharraf boasted of empowering minorities,
during a press conference with George Bush in Islamabad 10 days ago,
he was unlikely to have been referring to gay emancipation. Yet many
homosexuals say their community is quietly thriving, often with the
tacit acceptance of a society which prefers to look the other way.
Assaults on gay men are rare; sodomy laws are seldom invoked.

Communities of Hijra - a transsexual group, with roots which stretch
back to the Mughal empire - are found in all major cities. "In a
bizarre way homosexuality is condemned but not opposed," said a gay
man from Karachi. "There is an indulgence here, a cultural ability to
live and let live."

Such matters gain little political capital. When Urdu-language
newspapers accused a former chief minister of Sindh province of being
a cross-dresser two years ago, the storm quickly blew over and the
politician kept his job.

The apparent open-mindedness is at odds with Pakistan's austere and
socially conservative image abroad. Last year Punjabi authorities
briefly banned female participants in marathon races, while sex
outside marriage between men and women is punishable by death.

Cultural factors offer one explanation - gay men can easily camouflage
their relationships because public displays of affection between men,
such as holding hands, are widely accepted. "Western gays are
gobsmacked about how easy it is to pick up guys here, how often they
are approached," one gay man said.

Nevertheless, homosexuality, like anything related to sex, is
practised with great discretion. Internet chat rooms provide a safe
and anonymous forum for middle- and upper-class gay men. Cohabiting
couples are rare, and most gay men still marry to avoid scandalising
their families.

An Afghan refugee sparked controversy in the Khyber tribal agency last
September when he was "married" to a 16-year-old boy. A tribal council
ordered the pair to leave, or be stoned for breaking religious and
tribal values.

And many Pakistanis ignore their existence, seeing homosexuality as an
abhorrent, western practice. "It is not allowed in Islam and is surely
against the laws of nature; it is one of the signs of the end of the
world," a contributor to a BBC Online debate recently wrote.

Unlike vocal gay rights activists in western countries, many Pakistani
gay men feel that the lack of debate suits them. "If we were being
actively persecuted, then we might fight in public," said a gay man in
Islamabad. "But you don't want to pick a fight you can't win."


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