Yes, you have them in the correct order Directorie: Basically 1795-1799. A very short period, but full of fashion extremes on the streets of Paris. Heideloff's "Gallery of Fashion" is a good source of plates from the fashion perspective of Great Britain. While the change in men's fashions confined itself most of all to eliminating most of the peacock glory of men's court wear, the introduction of pantaloons(trousers)replacing knee britches and men mostly renouncing hair powder upping the taxes on flour( which was the main ingredient in most hair powders ) in Great Britain and the view that hair powder was one of the symbols seen as supporting the Old Regieme in France. Women's fashions continued the rather radical change that started just before the French Revolution. The high waisted look became fashionable for the first time in over 150 years. The various permutations of the so-called pocket-hoops and skirt backfullness, supported by pads were pronounced passe in order to meet the new ideal of a female Greek statue. Most women, even Mary Wollstonecraft, still wore stays, but fabrics were plainer, although imported cotton and Indian shawls along with high fashion's embrace of white, still meant being a la mode wasn't cheap. Shoes went from what we would call modest heels, to flat slippers. More comfortable, but not if you had high arches. Lots of Greek and Roman influences in fashion--especially when it came to one's headgear. As those handy pockets worn within one's gown were pronounced obsolete, the predecessor of the modern purse, the Indepensible became a visible accessory. Cameos and semi-precious stones become the last word in jewelry.
Empire: 1800-1815: Still lots of Roman influences, but on a grander scale. Tons more gold. The coronation portrait of Napoleon and Josephine gives one a good idea of the grafting of splendor on former simplicity and signs of the coming Romantic period are visible in Josphine's Elizabethan collars and ringleted hair in her portraits. The high-waisted skirts widen and start to take on increasingly ornate embelishments. Although men's dress wear and court costume can still be ornate, Beau Brummell and Napoleon's own preferences for dark, simpler dress, influences the continued copying of the embroidery-less suits most gentlement started wearing in the 1700's. Regency: 1811-1820 Lots of influence from the British colonies, especially in India and Asia. Tons of color and more is more. Englishwomen's fashionable dress embrasses details from both men's military wear and romantic influences from the past. The Prince Regent and his set still don't say no to color in their habillement, but most men prefer quieter, but very expensive tailored suits. Savile Row is the mecca for the truly fashionable moneyed gentleman. Romantic:1820-1837. Women's bodice length really starts to drop from just below the bust to normal waist. Sleeves and skirts balloon in width as does the shoulder line. The Industrial Revolution makes possible the manufacture of cheaper cloth and makers start creating even more complex weaving and dyeing techniques than before. Skirts shorten to about the ankle for a few years, which means more attention on footwear and hose Fashionable women and girls appear almost buried in the ruffles, pleatings and other details often lavished on the new wider skirts, sleeves, and shoulder berthas and capes. Headgear and hairdressing become increasingly complicated and ornate, even weighty looking to the early 21st c eye. Cindy Abel -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of A & J Garden Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 10:31 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Question about historical costuming terms Hi, I'm trying to sort out the differences between the following costuming terms: Directoire, Empire, Regency, Romantic. Have I got them in the right order and are they the right terms - or is one simply another term coined in another country? And how do we avoid all the confusion I encounter whenever I visit another website I read a different story about dates?I realise there will always be a slight confusion about when each period starts and finishes and why, but I'd love to try to simplify matters. One area I'm not sure of - I used to think Empire and Romantic were the same period and came after Regency - but some sites list empire as coming before Regency.<?????> Cheers4now, Aylwen _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
