Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking?
Beth Bob Matney wrote: Too true. I just bought my tickets for Leeds. I get sales and clearance emails from Ashgate that offer some great deals.. for those that live in the UK. You might want to go to their webpage and sign up. Good luck finding a copy. Beth Thank you - that sounds like a good idea: I'll do it now. Linda. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] test
just a little test ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
I have one example, but the contrasting piping is only at the waistline and is really a decorative element. I have uploaded the pictures of the gown if you are interested in looking. The gown is from 1867. http://s522.photobucket.com/albums/w344/my_stitching/Piping%20example/ From: Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 11:26:12 AM Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] white and red cotton
There're also traditional prohibitions (at least in the Jewish tradition) against mixing fibers. Patty On Sat, Dec 11, 2010 at 1:44 PM, snsp...@aol.com wrote: You must not mix new cotton with old nor red cotton with white. p. 89 What does he mean by red cotton? It seems reasonable that he means the same thing I mean when I sort my clothes before doing the laundry... -E House Please note that Mount Union’s campus e-mail addresses have changed from usern...@muc.edu to usern...@mountunion.edu. The username has not changed – only the domain. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] white and red cotton
I just did a Google on 'red cotton' Muslim history, and a Google book popped up. It is one of the protected ones, so I can't copy, but here is the reference: Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui, Italian Cotton Industry in the later Middle Ages, 1100-1600. P. 173, footnote 69 begins, cotton from certain regions of Anatolia was red in color, a condition caused by excessive humidity or insect damage. The note then goes on to describe prohibitions against its use, with citations. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Rickard, Patty ricka...@mountunion.edu To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2010 9:52 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] white and red cotton There're also traditional prohibitions (at least in the Jewish tradition) gainst mixing fibers. atty On Sat, Dec 11, 2010 at 1:44 PM, snsp...@aol.com wrote: You must not mix new cotton with old nor red cotton with white. p. 89 What does he mean by red cotton? It seems reasonable that he means the same thing I mean when I sort my lothes before doing the laundry... E House Please note that Mount Union’s campus e-mail addresses have changed from sern...@muc.edu to usern...@mountunion.edu. The username has not changed – nly the domain. ___ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 347
Wikipedia has its interest, but is not the be-all and end-all of references. There are other articles on the net that say it was also used in the Middle East. . . . You might want to do more research on colored cotton, not necessarily on the net. Thank you, Fran, I am very aware of the limitations of Wikipedia. I also did a huge amount of research on early cotton for Stephen Yafa for his book, Big Cotton, and found nothing, at the time, on red cotton being used in Egypt. It has, just now, been pointed out to me that red cotton was known in Anatolia; that would then beg the question about its importation into Egypt in the 12th-century. Did Egypt actually import cotton? It is possible that the same conditions that produced the Anatolian red cotton occurred in Egypt. Nancy Nancy Spies Arelate Studio _www.nancyspies.blogspot.com_ (http://nancyspies.blogspot.com/) _www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ (http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 347
It has, just now, been pointed out to me that red cotton was known in natolia; that would then beg the question about its importation into Egypt in he 12th-century. Did Egypt actually import cotton? It is possible that he same conditions that produced the Anatolian red cotton occurred in gypt. I plan to get the book I cited at some point--it is in my University Library; however, the Islamic Textiles reference seems more promising for this particular question. As Anatolia and Egypt were both part of the Ottoman Empire, it doesn't seem so far-fetched that there might have been movement of cotton from one part to the other, or, as you suggest, the same sort of conditions might have prevailed in Egypt. If I find out anything more, I'll be sure to post it. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: snsp...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2010 11:14 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 347 Wikipedia has its interest, but is not the be-all and end-all of eferences. There are other articles on the net that say it was also sed in the Middle East. . . . You might want to do more research on olored cotton, not necessarily on the net. hank you, Fran, I am very aware of the limitations of Wikipedia. I also id a huge amount of research on early cotton for Stephen Yafa for his ook, Big Cotton, and found nothing, at the time, on red cotton being used in Egypt. t has, just now, been pointed out to me that red cotton was known in natolia; that would then beg the question about its importation into Egypt in he 12th-century. Did Egypt actually import cotton? It is possible that he same conditions that produced the Anatolian red cotton occurred in gypt. ancy Nancy Spies relate Studio www.nancyspies.blogspot.com_ (http://nancyspies.blogspot.com/) www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 347
Unfortunately, my campus library does NOT have the Islamic Textiles book. But here is the information, for those interested. Robert Bertram Serjeant Islamic textiles; material for a history up to the Mongol conquest [by] R. B. Serjeant. Published/Created: Beirut, Librairie du Liban [c1972] Description: 263 p. maps. 27 cm. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: annbw...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2010 11:22 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 347 t has, just now, been pointed out to me that red cotton was known in atolia; that would then beg the question about its importation into Egypt in e 12th-century. Did Egypt actually import cotton? It is possible that e same conditions that produced the Anatolian red cotton occurred in ypt. I plan to get the book I cited at some point--it is in my University Library; owever, the Islamic Textiles reference seems more promising for this articular question. As Anatolia and Egypt were both part of the Ottoman mpire, it doesn't seem so far-fetched that there might have been movement of otton from one part to the other, or, as you suggest, the same sort of onditions might have prevailed in Egypt. If I find out anything more, I'll be ure to post it. Ann Wass Original Message- rom: snsp...@aol.com o: h-cost...@indra.com ent: Mon, Dec 13, 2010 11:14 am ubject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 347 Wikipedia has its interest, but is not the be-all and end-all of ferences. There are other articles on the net that say it was also ed in the Middle East. . . . You might want to do more research on lored cotton, not necessarily on the net. hank you, Fran, I am very aware of the limitations of Wikipedia. I also d a huge amount of research on early cotton for Stephen Yafa for his ok, Big Cotton, and found nothing, at the time, on red cotton being used in gypt. t has, just now, been pointed out to me that red cotton was known in atolia; that would then beg the question about its importation into Egypt in e 12th-century. Did Egypt actually import cotton? It is possible that e same conditions that produced the Anatolian red cotton occurred in ypt. ancy ancy Spies elate Studio ww.nancyspies.blogspot.com_ (http://nancyspies.blogspot.com/) ww.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ ttp://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) __ costume mailing list cost...@mail.indra.com tp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 347
Just found four of these on Abe Books for less that $70 US. I love Abe Books Genie On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 10:29 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: Unfortunately, my campus library does NOT have the Islamic Textiles book. But here is the information, for those interested. Robert Bertram Serjeant Islamic textiles; material for a history up to the Mongol conquest [by] R. B. Serjeant. Published/Created: Beirut, Librairie du Liban [c1972] Description: 263 p. maps. 27 cm. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 347
Just found four of these on Abe Books for less that $70 US. I love Abe Books Me, too! However, this topic is far outside my area of interest, so think I'll pass. (I also have interlibrary loan privileges at my campus library, and I would go that route to test out the book first if I did want to pursue it.) Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Genie Barrett maggeg...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2010 11:36 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 347 Just found four of these on Abe Books for less that $70 US. I love Abe Books enie On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 10:29 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: Unfortunately, my campus library does NOT have the Islamic Textiles book. But here is the information, for those interested. Robert Bertram Serjeant Islamic textiles; material for a history up to the Mongol conquest [by] R. B. Serjeant. Published/Created: Beirut, Librairie du Liban [c1972] Description: 263 p. maps. 27 cm. Ann Wass __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking?
I have Moda a Firenze which covers Italian Renaissance costuming on my list. I've seen this book thanks to Inter Library Loan and it's wonderful. The other book on my wish list is lost from her majesty's back...just because it sounds interesting. I've never seen this book. Is it worthy to be on a wish list G? Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thanks, that is very helpful, even though the contrasting piping is only at the waistline. It DOES at least affirm what I have been doing. If anyone else has any vintage photos or examples of contrasting piping fromt he 1860's I am VERY interested in documenting them for a current project. Yours inc osutming, Lisa A On Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:10:38 -0800 (PST) Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com writes: I have one example, but the contrasting piping is only at the waistline and is really a decorative element. I have uploaded the pictures of the gown if you are interested in looking. The gown is from 1867. http://s522.photobucket.com/albums/w344/my_stitching/Piping%20example/ From: Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 11:26:12 AM Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking?
From: Julie jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com I have Moda a Firenze which covers Italian Renaissance costuming on my list. I've seen this book thanks to Inter Library Loan and it's wonderful. The other book on my wish list is lost from her majesty's back...just because it sounds interesting. I've never seen this book. Is it worthy to be on a wish list G? Julie I have the first book, and it is indeed wonderful. I also have the second as a set of photocopies that I've thumbed through a few times. It is an interesting read of an inventory nature, as it is indeed a list of items lost from her back. But at the price most places have it for, no, I would not suggest trying to buy a copy, unless you really, really are into the research aspect of Elizabethan items. If you can find it through ILL, I suggest getting it that way and taking a look at it. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking?
At 10:47 AM 12/13/2010, Julie wrote: I have Moda a Firenze which covers Italian Renaissance costuming on my list. I've seen this book thanks to Inter Library Loan and it's wonderful. The other book on my wish list is lost from her majesty's back...just because it sounds interesting. I've never seen this book. Is it worthy to be on a wish list G? Julie I generally post what I can find or as they are announced (and I want them all!) on the elist MEDTC-Discuss and I buy a fair number. Are you aware of the second Moda (due out next Spring).. Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Cosimo I de Medici's Style by Roberta Orsi-Landini Text in Italian and English. 288p, 120 plates, 30 paper patterns, mostly in color (Polistampa 2011) ISBN-13: 978-88-564-0099-1 ISBN-10: 88-564-0099-5 Beth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking?
Thank you Sunny for the great book suggestions. That last one I hadn't heard of, so it went directly into my wish list.I have the Leisch book, but I need to get it out and actually read the book, so thanks for the reminder. The high priced out of print Italian books are on my ILL someday when I get serious list. I actually had a copy of the Herald book in my hand at an SCA event, for only a few hundred dollars... and put it down. Another person snatched it up before I came back to buy it. I guess it wasn't meant for me to own, as I really can't afford a few hundred for a book, but it was interesting to read parts of it. And it was so tiny a book, too. I seriously don't understand how folks price used books so high like this, but if folks are willing to pay... Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Sunshine Buchler sunny_buch...@sbcglobal.net To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 8:56:41 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking? Hi Kimiko! The time frames I am looking at are 1450-1500 Italy, and various aspects of the Victorian/Civil War era, in case folks have book suggestions for those. If you’re interested in Civil War day wear, I gotta recommend _Who Wore What?: Women’s Wear 1861-1865_ by Juanita Leisch http://www.amazon.com/Who-Wore-What-Womens-1861-1865/dp/0939631814/ref=sr_1_1?s=booksie=UTF8qid=1292258190sr=1-1 It’s a study of dress in carte de viste For 1450-1500 the best books in English (imo) are sadly long out-of-print and unconscionably expensive: _Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500_ by Jacqueline Herald _Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500_ by Elizabeth Birbari On the more attainable side there is: _Virtue and Beauty: Leonardo’s Ginevra de’ Benci and Renaissance Portraits of Women_ edited by David Alan Brown. http://www.amazon.com/Virtue-Beauty-Leonardos-Renaissance-Portraits/dp/0691114560/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8s=booksqid=1292258884sr=1-12-spell This is mostly an art book (with beautiful pictures from your period of interest) but there is one chapter dealing directly with clothing. _The Dress of the Venetians, 1495-1525_ by Stella Mary Newton. This is very much an academic text book with few pictures (rather like Maria Howard’s _Rich Apparel_ ) I haven’t found it all that useful for my Italian costuming, but it is an interesting read. Enjoy! -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking?
Kimiko The Herald book didn't cost that much when it was first published, but the once it went out of print, OH MY! It really is a wonderful book and is probably worth every penny it commands on the aftermarket. I know that I read it through completely every couple of years or so. I just wish someone would reprint the entire series. Ginni Morgan Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com 12/13/10 2:22 PM Thank you Sunny for the great book suggestions. That last one I hadn't heard of, so it went directly into my wish list.I have the Leisch book, but I need to get it out and actually read the book, so thanks for the reminder. The high priced out of print Italian books are on my ILL someday when I get serious list. I actually had a copy of the Herald book in my hand at an SCA event, for only a few hundred dollars... and put it down. Another person snatched it up before I came back to buy it. I guess it wasn't meant for me to own, as I really can't afford a few hundred for a book, but it was interesting to read parts of it. And it was so tiny a book, too. I seriously don't understand how folks price used books so high like this, but if folks are willing to pay... Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Sunshine Buchler sunny_buch...@sbcglobal.net To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 8:56:41 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] What book do you want to see in your Christmas stocking? Hi Kimiko! The time frames I am looking at are 1450-1500 Italy, and various aspects of the Victorian/Civil War era, in case folks have book suggestions for those. If you’re interested in Civil War day wear, I gotta recommend _Who Wore What?: Women’s Wear 1861-1865_ by Juanita Leisch http://www.amazon.com/Who-Wore-What-Womens-1861-1865/dp/0939631814/ref=sr_1_1?s=booksie=UTF8qid=1292258190sr=1-1 It’s a study of dress in carte de viste For 1450-1500 the best books in English (imo) are sadly long out-of-print and unconscionably expensive: _Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500_ by Jacqueline Herald _Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500_ by Elizabeth Birbari On the more attainable side there is: _Virtue and Beauty: Leonardo’s Ginevra de’ Benci and Renaissance Portraits of Women_ edited by David Alan Brown. http://www.amazon.com/Virtue-Beauty-Leonardos-Renaissance-Portraits/dp/0691114560/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8s=booksqid=1292258884sr=1-12-spell This is mostly an art book (with beautiful pictures from your period of interest) but there is one chapter dealing directly with clothing. _The Dress of the Venetians, 1495-1525_ by Stella Mary Newton. This is very much an academic text book with few pictures (rather like Maria Howard’s _Rich Apparel_ ) I haven’t found it all that useful for my Italian costuming, but it is an interesting read. Enjoy! -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This communication with its contents may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. It is solely for the use of the intended recipient(s). Unauthorized interception, review, use or disclosure is prohibited and may violate applicable laws including the Electronic Communications Privacy Act. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender and destroy all copies of the communication. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Hi, Lisa - Piping is not an absolute, but it does appear in almost all adult dresses c.1860-1865: in the armscyes for stabilization and strength and at the waistline and neckline as a finishing technique. The curved back seams are usually not piped; what appears to be piping in photographs is topstitching. On a significant number of dresses, this curved back seam is not even a seam - it's a tuck folded into the fabric. Self-fabric piping is also not an absolute - but the number of extant garments with contrasting piping represent a miniscule amount of surviving garments - possibly just a fraction of a percent of those worn during the period. Examples where I have found contrasting piping: a wrapper c.1861-1863 that used scrap fabric as part of the construction. e.g. collar, belt, cuffs and piping; two evening gowns c.1865-1866 where significantly larger piping was used as a decorative accent; and two children's dresses where contrasting fabric was used as a trimming. In four decades of research and hundreds of original garments - those have been the only examples I've encountered from this era. Contrasting piping does become more common in the post-war era. I've discussed this with other researchers and collectors who focus on this era and their surveys are comparable with mine. The only absolute in American Civil War era dresses is a dropped armscye; there are exceptions to almost every other characteristic. However, contrast piping in adult garments appears to be an aberration rather except in the circumstances I mentioned. As always, YMMV, and I'd enjoy hearing about other examples that I can add to my database. :-) Regards, Carolann Schmitt cschm...@genteelarts.com www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
