Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
To me, the sleeves look like they are a velvet or fine wool that has been slashed, then trim applied as horizontal bands separating the slashed sections. To get them to stand out, you cut the 'fashion fabric' slightly longer than the lining and then tack the horizontal bands to the lining and let the extra fabric naturally created the fullness. Unless you are planning to make linen under drawers (which were worn but not universally) then the long tails of the shirt function as underwear. The bottom of the shirt should fall well below the hips and could fall as low as just above the knee. There's a doublet under the jerkin made of the red fabric, so that's two 'outer' layers for the torso. The jerkin has the long, vertical slashes that were frequently found in Italian fashions. Hope you get really good at the slashes with horizontal bands because from what I can see, the doublet is made in the same way as the sleeves and trunkhose so you will be doing alot of it! Oh, and don't forget the stuffed codpiece... Karen Seamstrix On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 23:29:31 -0400 (EDT) Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have someone that has requested me to interpret this painting into real costume: http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg Portrait of a Soldier 1555-59 Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm Museo del Prado, Madrid I lack practical experience with men's wear in general, let alone this period. This is a skin-out project, so I need to know just what I am committing to here. I see the following layers: *underwear *shirt *netherstocks *jerkin *possibly waistcoat, but could be attached sleeves *Venetians/Breeches Sound about right? Anyone have any clues where to start finding reference materials for construction? Thanks so much, this will be a major project once I get underway - just trying to design the embossing on that velvet will be a serious challenge. Kathy Its never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of remaining young. -Oscar Wilde __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] _huge_ clothes (Was Future ware(gloves))
(After much snippage of some excellent insights.) After a number of years at the RenFaire, I made an interesting observation when one of our larger ladies tried on a man's surcoat for a lark one day. She looked really nice in it! Many larger ladies that I have seen (not all, but some!) seem to think that a corset/period bodice is a magic girdle that will make them thinner if they can just lace it down enough. This results in the 'stuffed sausage' look that I think is really painful looking and unpleasant. When this lady put on the surcoat, it skimmed over her body in such a way that made her look very majestic and very elegant. Please note that a well-fitted surcoat is NOT the same as an ill-fitting costume. Just my tuppence! Karen Seamstrix On Thu, 14 Jul 2005 19:57:36 -0700 Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: At 06:25 PM 7/14/2005, you wrote: Oh, jeez, don't get me started. If I had a dollar for every fat SCAdian woman who seems to think that _huge_ clothes are somehow more modest/flattering/who knows what than clothes that fit, I would be a wealthy woman. A fat, wealthy, well-dressed woman. As someone who's had to relearn a few things about personal fashion... I have come to realize personally that such large garments are an attempt, at least by me, to hide who I was inside by hiding behind the oversized garments I wore on the outside. It had nothing to do with fit, but personal body image and a lack of self esteem. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1740's characters
Well Albert, I hate to say it, but anybody that thinks that Puritans were still around in the 1740's probably hasn't paid that much attention in the first place and so doesn't really kow what he is asking for. Karen Seamstrix On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 07:46:29 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: STOP the surgers! The gig's off. They want us to do it for FREE. That's right, not at a reduced rate evenor for a nice dinner somewhere even...but Free. NOT I wonder if the actors, camera crew, lighting grips, and location people are doing it for FREE. What do you think? What is wrong with these people? How experienced can they be in film if they expect costumes for free? Do they think this is the Middle School play? They expressed a need for accuracy and attention to detail. How about the detail that Mr. Lincoln ended slavery. Get your grandmother to sew something up for you BudI'm outta here! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Thanks!!! Bustle gown
The dress looks terrific, and many congratulations on winning first in the competition! Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 16th Century Use of Leather
I recently bought a big chunk of leather in a sort of silvery taupe shade. While the smooth side is nice, the color takes on a truly gorgeous quality on the suede side. Was the suede/flesh side of leather used in 16th century England, or was the smoother hair side preferred? We are talking about using it for clothing, of course. I was thinking of a nice doublet for a new hunting gown... Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] At Long Last- the QE2!
Some of you may remember that I have been asked to play Queen Elizabeth at the Stronghold Olde English Faire for the last few years. For last year, I decided to make myself a new purple dress as Americans get confused if the queen isn't wearing purple. Anyway, I started a dress diary on it last September but didn't get beyond posting about the under-sleeves before life and other stuff interrupted. That has now been remedied! The complete QE2 Dress Diary is now up on my web site. I've included a fairly detailed explanation on cartridge pleating so there's some education to be had as well. And if you are going to be in the wilds of north central Illinois near Oregon, Illinois the first weekend of October (Oct 1 2), please drop by and say 'hi!', I'll be playing Great Bess yet again! http://seamstrix.com/The%20QE%202.htm Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] bodice design
Hi Jessica, That's a really big question. Maybe we could be of more help if we had some more details. How experienced are you at sewing? Did you take sewing in school? Have you done much sewing since school? What style of bodice is it? Ball gown? Day dress? What is this for? Is it for Halloween or for a historic reenactment of some sort? How strictly do you want it to be historically accurate? The more detailed your question, the better the folks here can give you the answer you are looking for. Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] update of chenille dress
The dress is gorgeous!!! The corset alone is just to die for! Wow! Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Apparently the 1990's are Now Considered Period Costume
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/20/magazine/20style_90s.html#articleBodyLi nk ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Clothes pins???
If you do a Google search on clothespins and Shakers you will see that the clothespin is frequently attributed to Shaker innovation. The Shakers were responsible for a number of things that we consider commonplace today such as flat brooms, an early version of the circular saw, and paper seed packets. Karen Seamstrix On Fri, 2 Dec 2005 09:35:31 -0700 Sue Clemenger [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi, everyone. I am looking for information on the historical development of clothes pins--the kind you use to hang up wet laundry with. I'm guessing that the spring-type ones are pretty modern, but what about the simpler ones that have a body and two legs? When were they developed? Off the top of my head, the only wet laundry treatments from the middle ages/renaissance that I remember seeing depicted is the laying out of linens on bushes/lawns, or else using poles, almost like flag poles, with the clothing draped over them. I don't have clue one about later time periods, as far as laundry goes. A friend mentioned that the leggy type of clothes pins were developed by the Shakers, which would most likely place them somewhere in the 19th century, but she didn't remember her source, so I couldn't verify it Thanks, Sue in Montana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century military jacket pattern
It's called a regimental coat and you can find a pattern for it at : http://www.patternsoftime.com/cat59a.html If you look thru their pattern listings, you will find just about all the 18th century patterns available. The basic regimental coat was the same pattern for Yanks as well as Brits. Karen Seamstrix On Tue, 6 Dec 2005 00:53:09 + Thomas Hayman [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi there, the 18th century has some truly nifty clothes and i decided i just have to make something. It's likely that this will take a long time and end up somewhat crap but i'd like to try anyway :-) I'm looking for a pattern for a coat like this man is wearing. http://www.gilliesandsaxxon.com/Redcoat.htm I'm not really sure where to start because i don't know the proper name for it (redcoat?) and wondered if you fine people could help me :-) Thank you for any and all help. -- Yours sincerely Thomas Hayman ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Humans in England, 700k years?
I actually hadn't heard about this but it's very interesting. At 700,000 years ago, the likely candidate for the maker of the flints is homo heidelbergensis who was an ancestor of homo neanderthalensis. At this point in time general concensus has it that our ancestors (homo rhodesiensis) was still in Africa. The mummies of Urumchi date to about 4,000 years ago and are homo sapiens although they appear to be caucasian rather than oriental which is why finding them in the interior of China is so remarkable. Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Chinese Mummies (was Humans in England, 700k years?)
I actually did shy away from using that term, but it's a quote from the book. And I believe one of the reasons that what used to be called 'Mongolism' is now known as Down's Syndrome is to get away from unflattering ethnic comparisons. Besides, I have it on good authority that children with DS in the orient are thought to look more Caucasian... Karen Seamstrix On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 11:37:55 -0600 otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Mongoloid, I believe is a physical description not an ethnic description. Perhaps you are looking for Mongolian? Sorry I stand corrected: A genetically and physiologically identifiable race of the human species. Includes people of north and east Asia, Malaysians, and American Indians. Orientals are part of this race. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] men's elizabethan doublet question
Hooks and eyes? On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 09:47:43 +1100 A J Garden [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have a man's doublet that is too tight for buttons and am looking for a period correct way of fastening down the front where the two sides just meet. I have not seen any lace up in any paintings. Can anyone help my poor tired brain with options? Mnay thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Holiday/Secret Santa gifts
Not too many costuming presents from friends and family although my friend Jay got me a really cool reproduction of a Mesopotamian cylinder seal designed to be worn as a necklace. My Secret Santa was Jayne Thomas from England who sent me some lovely lengths of fabric- one in a silky, dusty purple/lavender and another in a gorgeous red damask- I think this one is silk. She also sent me pictures of her family and a lovely letter telling me all about herself. Thanks so much, Jayne! Everything got here in plenty of time! Karen Seamstrix On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 23:30:48 -0500 Carol Kocian [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Naturally mine was waiting for me today when I got home. :-) Sue Clemenger sent some chocolate truffles (Yum!) and a beautiful blank book covered in green velvet, with a Celtic knotwork animal design embossed into it. Very cool, thank you! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Man's Doublet closure, was Re: [h-cost] Have you seen this painting?
Hooks and eyes are a perfectly period closing for the 16th century- why wouldn't Francesco de Medici have a doublet that closed with hooks and eyes? Karen Seamstrix On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 21:49:46 -0500 monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hooks and eyes? This is Francesco de Medici, Cosimo I de Medici and Eleonora de Toledo's oldest son. Dame Catriona MacDuff -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Joan Jurancich Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 5:22 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Man's Doublet closure, was Re: [h-cost] Have you seen this painting? At 02:05 PM 12/30/2005, you wrote: Hi, I stumped over this stunning mans renaissance clothes. How is his doublet buttoned down the front. I only se 3 buttons at the top, where is the rest? Is it laced at the back? http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/treffpunkt/abb 81a .htm Bjarne My guess would be that the buttons are purely decorative and the actual closure is by hooks and eyes. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Have you seen this painting?
My tuppence on this one is that it is a decorative, vestigial hanging sleeve. You can see something like it in Queen Elizabeth's Pelican portrait. I agree that it is fabric and not fur, but I don't think it's part of the skirt. Karen Seamstrix On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 14:20:10 -0600 (CST) Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: On Sat, 31 Dec 2005, Robin Netherton wrote: I'm 95% certain it's a zibellino ... Nope. Tawny points out that when you blow it up, you can see clearly it's fabric. I didn't see that on my browser, but when I saved and enlarged the image, I could see clearly that it loops up behind her hand, and you can see a little of the embellishment of the dress fabric in the front of hte fold. I think it's a fold of her skirt that she's lifting. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hello-new member
Hi! I am a long-time member of the group your will be costuming for (Bristol RenFaire Guilde of St. George) and I can give you some pointers, but Kate Bailey will be your final word of approval. I can tell you that authenticity is very important- some people use theatrical cheats, but it's rather discouraged. It's important to use fabrics with lots of natural fiber as we will be performing in the dust and heat of high summer. Try to get fabric with as much cotton in it as possible. Take a good look at other Renaissance portraits and try to train your eye as to what patterns are appropriate- many modern upholstery fabrics are a good pattern but be careful that they aren't too big to go on a human body. When in doubt, use a plain fabric and go wild with the trim. Make sure your colors are correct to period- it's hard to go wrong with greys, browns, and golds. As a knight and a sea captain, you should probably err towards the side of simple and practical. It's better to do a fairly simple outfit well than to do a really complicated outfit badly. The parts of the outfit you will need to make/provide are: period correct shirt (preferably two so he can have a clean one on Sunday) breeches (slops or venetians) doublet sleeves (they are detachable so you could make him a couple different matching ones) a cloak or jerkin (sleeveless over vest) hat He will also need period correct shoes/boots. Most men wear men's theatrical/ballet tights underneath. For a good set of men's patterns you can't go wrong with Margo's Patterns, she has a complete outfit in one pattern package along with excellent instructions. Consider using several layers of trim as decoration to give it depth and interest rather than one wide trim. You will need to buy more trim than you thought possible to trim the outfit- I never buy trim in less than 15 yard lots these days and you could probably use 20-30 yards on the breeches, doublet and cloak without even trying hard. Since he is a knight, you won't need to worry about beading and jeweling, but he should consider getting at least one piece of really nice jewelry to decorate the outfit. Don't limit yourself to just locally available fabric resources- the Web is a great place to shop and most fabric sellers will send you swatches. My personal favorite is Fabric.com but I'm sure other people will have other resources to share. Karen Seamstrix Lady Philadelphia Carey, Baroness Le Scrope of Bolton Guilde of St. George, Bristol Renaissance Faire On Tue, 3 Jan 2006 08:44:10 -0800 (PST) REBECCA BURCH [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Greetings, I was so pleased to find this resource. I am in need of guidance and after reading through some of the archived messages, this sounds like the place to find it. My son will be playing Capt. Martin Frobisher at a Renaissance Faire this summer and has asked me to make his outfit. Up to this point he has been supplied with Yeoman garb. I have loads of sewing experience, but none in historical accuracy. Where would be the best place to start? I also don't have the luxury of time, since he needs to submit fabric swatches by the end of February. I have asked him to find contact information for the person in charge of costume at the Faire, so I will know just how deep the accuracy needs to go. I have done theatre costuming, but I think this needs to be a little more in-depth. There is a portrait of this gentleman to use as a guide. How do I tell what kind of fabric to look for? My local fabric sources are limited to Joann's and Wal-Mart. Are there good resources online? Any guidance/assistance will be appreciated. Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] warming a castle
I think we are failing to take a very important issue into consideration- acclimatization (sp?). I live near Chicago and after one of our bakingly hot summers, the first time the temperature dips down near freezing (especially if it's a sudden drop) I feel the cold quite a bit. By the end of the winter season , I am laughing at the idea of 32F being cold. Earlier this week we had a day that was up above 45F and there were people out in just tee-shirts and jeans. I also recently saw a piece on one of the educational channels about a woman who trained for years to swim in extremely cold water and eventually was able to swim between Alaska and Siberia in water that the experts say should have killed her in 20 minutes- she was able to swim in it for over 2 hours and come out none the worse for the experience. I realize this is an extreme example but it shows how well the human body can adjust to various temperatures. My opinion is that if you lived in the space all year round, not only would a constantly burning fire raise the average temp, YOU'D BE USED TO IT! Just my temperature tuppence, Karen Seamstrix On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:36:55 -0800 Sharon L. Krossa [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: At 7:35 PM + 1/17/06, Laura Dickerson wrote: A number of years ago we visited Cothele House in Cornwall on a cold rainy April day. It's a granite and slate Tudorish house with fancy woodwork and lots of tapestries on the walls. No electric lights, no central heating. There was a blazing fire in the great hall fireplace, but unless one was standing quite near the fire, it didn't seem to help much. Dark and damp and chilly, although it was at least out of the wind. From the web site I note that this house is closed during the winter, from November through late March, and so doesn't really answer the question of how warm it would be if it was lived in all year round (including the fire places going at least all winter, possibly all year round) -- especially not when visited in April only a few weeks after opening again. (Another consideration is, even when it is open, is it kept heated when tourists aren't there, or are the fires only going during business hours?) All those layers of woolen clothes seemed like a good idea. I have no doubt this is true -- indeed, it is still true in Britain, in my experience, even with central heating... Sharon -- Sharon Krossa, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language more: Medieval Scotland - http://MedievalScotland.org/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Gestational Stays
I know that there's a portrait of Lady Burghley in a very pregnant state wearing a kirtle and surcoat. No idea what she's wearing as a support garment, but from the swell of her belly (she looks about 8 months along) I would say it's not a standard Elizabethan pair of stays.if she's wearing anything under the kirtle besides a shift Karen Seamstrix On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 22:31:12 -0500 (EST) Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I'm doing a little nosing around on this subject. Another discussion offlist brought up the issue of support in the Elizabethan era during pregnancy. Is there any evidence of what women did while pregnant but not yet confined, for support? I'm sure the middle class couldn't afford a lengthy confinement, if at all. They had to do something while waiting for the end to come. I know there is a pattern from ohh.. I think late 18th early 19th c. out there, I'm wondering where they got the idea from. Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert Its never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it. -Ivan Panin __ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] williamsburg suit
I've had the shoulder issue with enlarging patterns from period garments. I believe that in the 18th century (particularly for the upper classes) they were trained from childhood that proper posture involved holding the shoulders back and down giving the body a wider front and narrower back. In modern America (I don't know about Denmark) a more 'slouchy' posture is the norm with the shoulders rounded towards the front which is exactly opposite from the 18th century posture. Aside from re-training ones body to the period posture, I don't know what can be done except adjusting the patterns somewhat to accomodate modern posture.but I don't think it should be done too much because the broad-chested/narrow-backed look is part of what makes the fashions work and look right. Karen Seamstrix On Fri, 3 Feb 2006 20:27:21 +0100 Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi, I am trying to make myself a new suit, and today i drafted the pattern of the english coat in Costume Close Up. It really is difficult to adapt an old pattern to a modern size. The armholes are much much two small and the shoulderseam sits very badly on me. I have to redy the cut. This i always have to do and i wondered if others of you have the same problems? The gustavian suit i made last year, didnt have to be ajusted very much in comparison, but it is very painfull to wear it long times, because it pushes my shoulders so much backwards. I dont understand how men had space for their arms in these suits. Upperclass people must have ben very skinny men without much mucle if any att all. Strange when i look at portraits, there seems to be no wrinkles in the armskyes, and there must have ben plenty of room for them. This is very odd... Bjarne who wished i could for just one time make my pattern accurate at this point, but no... Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket
That sounds like a good idea, I wish we had folks like that in the States. Just make sure that whoever is helping you to fit the suit understands the fitting/style differences between modern and 18th century suits. You don't want them 'fixing' the fit! Karen Seamstrix On Sat, 4 Feb 2006 13:57:34 +0100 Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi all. After shopping for this weekend and got back again, i got an idea. Ill send my green embroidered suit to the cleaners on monday, and in stead i will embroider new undercuff pieces and replace the old ones. This is the only thing that needs to be replaced, and embroidering new undercuff pieces should not take me long time. Dont you think this would be fine for a 3 days event if i bring along the green and the blue suit? I also have the velvet mundane suit with the red waistcoat i could use for the daytimes. For the other, the Williamsburg suit, i think i could go to proffesional helpers. There are small shops here in Copenhagen who takes commision jobs of sewing jobs like mending or remade old things. If i bring them my mock up, i could have them help me to fit it better.. I will do this in the future. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend
I don't know how fast he can get things to Europe, but I have dealt with them by US mail and in person for many years. They carry good quality products and the management is extremely involved. I know they will make every effort to get your order to you as quickly as possible. Karen Seamstrix On Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:48:35 +0100 Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi, Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, Jas Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe. Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 days? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Martha to Mia - I needed that!
If I may be so bold as to add another word of encouragement to you, Martha, I'm very much looking forward to your 18th century line as well. I am a huge fan of your mid 19th century patterns and I know that you will do the 18th century proud as well. Karen Seamstrix On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 10:33:48 -0500 Martha Kelly [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I can't wait for the 18cent patterns that Martha McCain/Simplicity that are rumored to be coming out sometime in the future. Martha McCain, I know you are out there...You go girl. 18c Mia in Charlotte, NC. Thanks for the words of encouragement. I've been working on the 18th century patterns for a almost two years. (The people at Simplicity assume I'm dead.) These are much harder to make mass-marketable than the Civil War ones. By the mid nineteenth century, paper patterns, much as we know them today, were available. So the sewing style that went with that is almost modern in its mind set. But the 18th century gowns were built on the body. It's tricky to reach a compromise of what's really accurate and what's possible for most people to be willing to attempt. I'm hoping to publish a companion piece separately to show how to really make the garments and to share the research I've done. Too few hours in the day! Martha ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Equestrian costuming and other period tack
I'm not an expert on equestrian costume or riding side-saddle, but I think these ladies ARE riding side-saddle. I can see the subtle outline of the right leg wrapped around the saddle horn with the left leg hanging more or less vertically. As for the skirt spreading, I have seen it done. At Bristol, Mary Kababik, who plays Queen Elizabeth, has ridden in the main parade on a side-saddle for the last 5 years and with the amount of fabric in her skirt it looks almost exactly like that. In this painting the ladies aren't riding perpendicular to the horse, they are riding more or less parallel wi the horse with their lower body turned slightly to the side. Just my ha'penny's worth, Karen Seamstrix On Tue, 7 Mar 2006 19:08:23 -0600 Diane Maynard [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I can tell you that that I believe that BOTH of these paintings are of women riding ASTRIDE. These are two of my favorite paintings and I have duplicated both of these gowns for myself. It takes a LOT of material to make the skirts of these gowns. If one is riding side-saddle, the gown will not envelope the hind quarters of the horse the way these gowns do. I side saddle gown will literally hang to the side of the legs (covering the legs)and not cover the hindquarters of the horse. Diane VELÁZQUEZ, Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Queen Isabel of Bourbon Equestrian 1634-35 Oil on canvas, 301 x 314 cm Museo del Prado, Madrid http://www.wga.hu/art/v/velazque/05/0506vela.jpg VELÁZQUEZ, Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Queen Margarita on Horseback 1634-35 Oil on canvas, 297 x 309 cm Museo del Prado, Madrid http://www.wga.hu/art/v/velazque/05/0503vela.jpg It's really hard for me to tell whether they're riding astride or sidesaddle, but perhaps someone with more equestrian experience could venture. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] kimono questions again
The best book on the history of kimono that I have found is- Kimono: Fashioning Culture Liza Crihfield Dalby Avery Press, boulder colorado ISBN 0-300-05639-7 It should answer all your questions and then some. Liza Dalby is the American anthropologist who went thru formal geisha training and then wrote a very detailed book about her expereince. Karen Seamstrix On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 09:21:11 -0800 (PST) Cascio Michael [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hello again, I'm looking at doing the traditional kimono with the collar standing away from the back of the neck and the collar crossing across the front of the chest. As far as I can tell this style originated about 300 years ago so that is the timeframe I am looking at. What research I've done indicates that there was an underkimono or other undergarments to protect the silk from body oils, hence my questions about undergarments and linens. I've also read that the obi was a high court item and that kimono were layered up to 12 at a time. The combinations of colors in the layers could have specific names too. My questions: If I stiffen the collar to stand away from the neck I can use hair canvas and just air the outer layer? What would the undergarments have been like approximately 300 years ago? I'm used to thinking of linen for the layer next to the skin so it can be washed frequently. Is this correct for Japanese undergarments or would they have used cotton? The discussions on-line of modern kimono wear show a fake undercollar and say that it is cooler. I'm assuming this is the modern equivalent of a partlet or dickey and I would rather have the complete underlayer so I don't have to wash the silk. Would the underkimono have had a stiff collar also and if so would it still be a hair canvas? I've not had much success with hair canvas standing up to the amount of washing a body linen would require. What was worn before the obi or instead of the obi for a working or merchant class woman? I realize that kimono just means something to wear and that each garment has a specific name but when I say kimono most people get the general idea. I'm working on a middle class, middle age married woman wardrobe and hope for some color and pattern rmation too. I know the sleeves also changed based on the age and status of the wearer. Any help gladly appreciated. Cassandra __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Question Regrading Houndstooth Check
I was wondering how far back in history one can document the weaving/wearing of houndstooth check? Anybody have any information? Inquiring historical minds want to know! Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Done, Done, Done
I'm a member of St. George at Bristol and I know your son. I'll let you know how it goes this weekend. Cross your fingers that we don't get drowned by the predicted storms! Karen Seamstrix On Fri, 30 Jun 2006 09:41:53 -0700 (PDT) REBECCA BURCH [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Well, it's done!!! Shipped and out of my control. I'm not happy with all of it, but it is the best I could do for the moment. I've learned a lot and the next one will be better. I can't recommend the Margo Anderson pattern, although others seem to think it is wonderful! It could be that I just didn't have the right mindset. About the third time I took things apart I began to understand what was supposed to happen - but I don't think it was marked well enough and assumed a lot of Elizabethan clothing construction knowledge. Plus I'm not really happy with the scale. When I got the chemise all together and on a hanger I realized that the sleeves are way too long and the body is too wide across the shoulders. (My only excuse is that it was 3am and I was making the push to get it shipped on time. Otherwise I'm sure I would have noticed earlier) It didn't help that I haven't seen Ansel since Christmas and couldn't have him try things on. I'm anxious to hear how it fits. I am taking the sewing machine and leftover fabric with me when we go to Wisconsin at the end of July. So if it doesn't fit too well he will only have to wear it a couple of weeks before I can fix it. This coming weekend is dress rehearsal and the Faire opens on July 8. We will be up there July 21-28. So if anybody is at the Bristol Faire and sees Capt. Frobisher, please let me know what you think. Be honest - I can take it. Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
