[h-cost] dating vintage patterns by number and year?
On Wed, 8/31/16, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 15, Issue 54 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Wednesday, August 31, 2016, 1:00 PM Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com You can reach the person managing the list at h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Victorian button boots (Lavolta Press) 2. Re: Victorian button boots (Sharon Collier) 3. Re: Victorian button boots (Lavolta Press) 4. Re: Victorian button boots (Lynn Downward) 5. Re: Victorian button boots (Sharon Collier) -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2016 15:20:53 -0700 From: Lavolta Press To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Victorian button boots Message-ID: <7d12816b-8731-81a3-5c2e-c9d3b5a31...@lavoltapress.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed I had a nice pair of Victorian repro button boots with scallops. They looked very authentic. I need to replace them. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? American Duchess won't work for me. There are a number of their shoes I would buy if they made smaller than a size 6, but I wear 5 or 5 1/2. Thanks. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com -- Message: 2 Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2016 15:30:26 -0700 From: "Sharon Collier" To: "'Historical Costume'" Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian button boots Message-ID: <013c01d2030e$1b5311a0$51f934e0$@collierfam.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Try asking Lauren (owner American Duchess) if she can make you a smaller pair. There might be others who'd like smaller sizes. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 3:21 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Victorian button boots I had a nice pair of Victorian repro button boots with scallops. They looked very authentic. I need to replace them. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? American Duchess won't work for me. There are a number of their shoes I would buy if they made smaller than a size 6, but I wear 5 or 5 1/2. Thanks. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Message: 3 Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2016 15:34:43 -0700 From: Lavolta Press To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian button boots Message-ID: <597b1e36-b4c3-65df-3dd4-f9cd2c022...@lavoltapress.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed I have already asked, she says sizes under 6 just don't sell well enough. Fran On 8/30/2016 3:30 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: > Try asking Lauren (owner American Duchess) if she can make you a smaller > pair. There might be others who'd like smaller sizes. > > -Original Message- > From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On > Behalf Of Lavolta Press > Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 3:21 PM > To: Historical Costume > Subject: [h-cost] Victorian button boots > > I had a nice pair of Victorian repro button boots with scallops. They looked > very authentic. I need to replace them. Does anyone know where I can get a > replacement? American Duchess won't work for me. There are a number of > their shoes I would buy if they made smaller than a size 6, but I wear 5 or > 5 1/2. > > Thanks. > > Fran > > Lavolta Press > > Books on historic clothing > > www.lavoltapress.com > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > -- Message: 4 Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2016 15:49:08 -0700 From: Lynn Downward To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian button boots Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Have you checked with Old Sacramento Goods? Can't remember the proper name and don't have time to look it up, but it's the store from JoAnn Peterson, owner of Laughing Moon Me
[h-cost] searching for graphed patterns thank you
Thank you all for the information. These are what I am looking for and I do have graduate student access to the UIUC libraries so maybe I can get them through interlibrary loan.Charlene, could you tell me what key words you were searching through OCLC because I can't get it to disgorge the list of libraries who have these? I know my google-fu isn't good but I can't get OCLC to find anything under title, names of authors or Dewey Decimal number. Once again, thanks. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] searching for a graphed pattern
Hello the list, Years ago either AlterYears or Amazon Vinegar Pickling Dry Goods carried a set of graphed dress patterns from, I think, the Royal Ontario Museum. My Google-fu is failing me so I can't find a reference to them on-line.. If anyone has these or remembers what I'm talking about could you let me know. I think there were 3 different time periods so I'd like to know what they were before I spend hours trying to find them through WorldCat. Casssandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] wardrobe size again
Hi All, I've found all your replies really helpful and now have a question on the practicalities of a small wardrobe. How many dresses would a lower middle class married woman have in her wardrobe? What type of garments would they have been, wrappers, dresses, nightgowns, etc.? And what would you wear on laundry day if you only had one dress? I've read how the kids would be told to stay in their rooms in their undies while the laundry was drying but mom would have had to wear something while out in the yard hanging out the clothes to dry. Ditto for dad because he couldn't not work just because his clothes were being washed. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re wardrobe size, middle class
Hi All, I've given some thought as to how I would describe middle class for my research project since you're all correct in that middle class covers a wide range. I'm looking at people who had enough that they could grow or purchase enough food to not worry about having food, farm families would be included since even if the women didn't work outside the home as in more recent centuries they definitely contributed, maybe afford to throw the occasional gathering or party and had a special outfit or two for funerals or special occasions such as holidays. I'm thinking yeoman or burgher class for earlier centuries. People with enough not to feel threatened financially on a daily basis but not so much that the adults were idle. I hope I'm making sense. And on a another note I just saw Lizzie Borden Took an Axe with Christine Ricci in it and the outfit she's wearing through most of the movie's day of the murder just seems wrong to me. Is it supposed to be an underdress because it's hot or a housedress or a fantasy? Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] wardrobe size
Hello, I'm trying to look into the size of the average middle-class woman's wardrobe through the centuries. Finding advice on the trousseau is easier, at least after the advent of ladies' magazines but I'm most interested in how many dresses a middle class woman would own. How common was the one dress for every day and one for Sunday with a multitude of aprons? Do women start having more dresses after the advent of cheap cotton? Since the list covers a large span of history I'm hoping for answers from many centuries. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Victorian construction list information
Hello All I've lost enough weight that I need to start sewing a new wardrobe andI'm looking at doing more 1890-1909 blouses, skirts and suits. Is there a late Victorian list that is very active? I've been picking up original pattern sheets from ebay, some in French and German, and some patterns from Ageless Patterns so I could use some construction help. A recommendation for a good basic period sewing text would be great also, something that covers all the basics like the old Reader's Digest sewing manual but for the late Victorian, early Edwardian period. I'm in the process of rereading Fran's books but she has 't published the late 1890s volume yet. I'd like something that I could go to the index and find out if all wool skirts were lined, how they handled fur trimming, jacket hem weights, co-ordinating colors within outfits, etc, I don't know if I'm explaining this well but I should have a decent corset and chemise by the time my graduate student daughter leaves in about a month. I'm also hoping for at least one basic blouse that I can then alter other items to match the fit and play with the sleeves. Hopefully this makes sense. I know I can come here with questions and definitely will but different lists have different people on them so I'm looking for a more focused list for this next year or so. Thanks much. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1890s morning gowns questions
Hi All, I'm getting ready for a vacation of sorts and was going to work on a winter morning gown, I'm using ageless patterns #1235, 1893 morning gown w/revers collarette, in bright purple wool broadcloth and will do something screamimgly bright for the embroidery on the revers. If anyone has made this I could use some guidance on the center back seam with the L shape at the waist, If not I hope it works out in the muslin. My actual questions is would this be worn over a corset? Is a morning gown the equivalent of a modern bathrobe, put it on over a nightgown for a family breakfast before dressing for the day or is it put on over the day's underclothes so all you need to do is put on the final layers in order to be presentable to go out? Any and all help appreciated although I'm on digest so won't see replies until later. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume magazine article wanted
Hi Everyone, As it has now hit over 80 F and 85 % humidity at my workplace I plan on making good my threat to make some Asian pants in a truly obnoxious print. Unfortunately I can't find the article I was going to use as reference. I know it was in Costume, the periodical publication out of the UK, and it was in an issue numbered somewhere in the 30s for issue or volume number. Does this ring a bell for anyone? If someone can send me the article or the volume/issue number or an online link I can start sooner. If anyone has the cite for the article I can try inter-library loan or take the perilous journey to campus town and the university library. The harder I try to remember the article specifics the bigger the blank I'm drawing so any help would be greatly appreciated. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] color chart
I found the color chart highly useful as a starting point for the color names I see when reading about costume. I'll have to adjust my monitor to get truer images than what I'm currently seeing but this looks like fun. Some charts I know use DMC wool tapestry yarn colors as a color reference when talking about naturally dyeing wool yarn or fabric. It is often easily available around here (Midwest) and it's not too expensive if you want to buy a skein as a portable color reference for a particular fabric search. Happy New Year everyone and may the costume gremlins avoid your house completely this year. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] lining for panne velvet
Hi Everyone, Since I don't have any pressing sewing to do for the holidays I've decided to use up some of my stash. The top piece is a panne velvet which stretches. I have a simple dress pattern with a skirt seamed to a bodice but would like to stabilize out the stretch. The fabric stretches across the grain of the fabric, not along the length. I'd also like to do buttons instead of a zipper or ties. Will lining the bodice stabilize the stretch? Would I cut the lining on the bias or the straight. I'm considering tacking snowflake buttons at intervals to decorate the bodice and keep the layers together. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] was lacing now 1820s underwear
Hi all, The thread on lacing was very timely as it got me going again on my late 1820s outfit so on to the questions. I'm looking at doing a late 1820s outfit from the skin out (I already have Fran's excellent book) and am not finding undergarments specifically dated to 1828. This is a transition period from the classical Regency look into the big gigot sleeves so the sleeve heads are large but not huge, the waistline has crept down to about the natural waist, maybe a little high but not right up under the bust. Classic Regency corsets are too short but a later corset (Edwardian) gives the wrong profile. Any help with links to 1826-1829 garments, particularly undergarment, or good pattern recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] where to buy embroidery hoops?
Thank you for all the design disc links and especially the stabilizer purchase site. Now if someone could point to someplace to buy an endless hoop so I can make long lengths of embroidery for hems and angel sleeve hems? I'm also interested in eyelet patterns or patterns for 1830's fichus and canezous. Once again any help much appreciated. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] new embroidery machine
Hello all, I received an embroidery machine for Christmas and am in need of guidance and information. Someone on this list mentioned getting a continuous hoop for doing strips of trim or lace so I'd like an on-line source for accessories. My machine is a Singer futura CE-150 and the shops around here are highly Bernina. My Machine has conversion software included so it uses an amazing amount of formats so I'm also looking for design discs with historic or SCA period designs. The other thing I'd like is a recommendation of an on-line list like this one but for machine embroiderers. I think I'm most interested in doing suites of lace for Edwardian lingerie dresses, granddaughter fun dresses, or ten-foot rule medieval. Anything for competition would be done by hand, of course, but my summer mundane wardrobe is highly silly most of the time so I see lots of uses for this machine in the near future. Any help, on- or off-list communication greatly appreciated. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Bronwen's Blackwork
Could anyone who has copies of the blackwork patterns from the Bronwen's Blackwork link on Drea's Elizabethan Costuming page please contact me off-list. I lost my copy of the pattern I was going to use and I can't remember whether it was English, German or Italian. Bronwen has tried to help but it's one of those I'll know it when I see it situations. I think of it as the pattern below the pomegranate one in my own mind so you can see how that would make it hard to tell someone which one it is. I'll also be at CostumeCon in St. Louis later this week if someone could bring a copy. Cassandra Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] princess seam construction thanks
Thanks for the ideas on the construction of the housedress. I'm actually looking at a pattern draft from the Voice of Fashion 1890s. I've never been very good at getting the gathered or pleated edges to go smoothly into the adjacent seam and the instructions are basically non-existent for exactly whether to pleat or gather and how to get it to go in smoothly. I don't have much luck with gores either. I just need more practice. Thanks again. Cassandra Yahoo! Music Unlimited Access over 1 million songs. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] late Victorian princess seam patterns
Hi Everyone, I was just looking at princess line housedresses from the 1890s and am confused by how to sew some of the pieces together. I'll see if I can describe what I see. The back of the bodice is in two pieces with the curved back seam. When you get to the waist line the seamline goes out at a 90 degree angle and then down to the hem. There's no corresponding interior 90 degree angle on the side front so the 5 or 10 inches of fabric that sticks out from the waist has to be gathered or pleated somehow so that the side seam becomes straight again. I am so lost on how this fits together. \ The slanted lines are the center back \ curve and then the side seam takes that \ \ jut to the side but the matching 1 piece for the side back is mainly 1 flat. Am I supposed to stack pleat ---the outer corner but then what do 1 I do with the raw edges on the top 1 of the stacked pleats? Sorry 1 about the art but maybe some one has seen one of these or the insideof one and can suggest something. These seem to be housedresses so I'm thinking cotton or lightweight wool for my first attempt. Any help or thoughts appreciated. Cassandra TV dinner still cooling? Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Met magazine picture--Aiden/Helen
Sorry to send this to the list but the kind offer of close-up photos from the Met magazine caught my eye. Could you please e-mail me off-list so I can take you up on your kind offer to copy some of the pictures. Thanks, Cassandra __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Drea Leeds site
Hi all, Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent site went? Every one of the pages I had bookmarked from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not getting a site when I try googling for the main site. Help? Cassandra __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] help with dress from The Edwardian Modiste
Hi everyone, For people who own a copy of the Edwardian Modiste I could use some help. I want to make the dress from page 236 and am having more trouble than I think I should. If anyone has made this dress could you e-mail me privately so I can ask some questions about the flounces. Thanks. Cassandra __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] kimono questions again
Hello again, I'm looking at doing the "traditional" kimono with the collar standing away from the back of the neck and the collar crossing across the front of the chest. As far as I can tell this style originated about 300 years ago so that is the timeframe I am looking at. What research I've done indicates that there was an underkimono or other undergarments to protect the silk from body oils, hence my questions about undergarments and linens. I've also read that the obi was a high court item and that kimono were layered up to 12 at a time. The combinations of colors in the layers could have specific names too. My questions: If I stiffen the collar to stand away from the neck I can use hair canvas and just air the outer layer? What would the undergarments have been like approximately 300 years ago? I'm used to thinking of linen for the layer next to the skin so it can be washed frequently. Is this correct for Japanese undergarments or would they have used cotton? The discussions on-line of modern kimono wear show a fake undercollar and say that it is cooler. I'm assuming this is the modern equivalent of a partlet or dickey and I would rather have the complete underlayer so I don't have to wash the silk. Would the underkimono have had a stiff collar also and if so would it still be a hair canvas? I've not had much success with hair canvas standing up to the amount of washing a body linen would require. What was worn before the obi or instead of the obi for a working or merchant class woman? I realize that kimono just means "something to wear" and that each garment has a specific name but when I say kimono most people get the general idea. I'm working on a middle class, middle age married woman wardrobe and hope for some color and pattern information too. I know the sleeves also changed based on the age and status of the wearer. Any help gladly appreciated. Cassandra __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] questions on kimono
I've decided to revamp my casual wardrobe and am leaning towards a Japanese theme. So now I have several questions. I've started by doing web research and pulling out all my appropriate patterns, Folkwear, etc and my copy of Make Your Own Japanese Clothing. Would the first layer be linen? One of the on-line tutorials shows what looks like a white tank-top and a wrap skirt, then an underkimono and then the outer robe. What do you stiffen the collar with so it doesn't flop over or crease when worn next to the neck? I'm hoping for something different than hair canvas. Perhaps multiple layers of muslin? I want to be able to wash the underkimono frequently like I would my linen shifts. The current incarnation of kimono seems to have become formalized about 300 years ago. What would have been worn before then? I want all the lower or under layers to stand up to frequent washing so please keep that in mind when throwing out suggestions. Any and all history, suggestions, and construction hints welcome. Thanks. Cassandra __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tudor roses again
Hello again, Thanks again for all the links. I was planning on a padded satin stitch for the roses, more like the Helena Snakenborg, but with more of a scatter pattern like some of the Italian shifts. Thanks again. Cassandra __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tudor rose again
Thanks for the links. I did try google first and got several that were possible. I seem to remember in the dim recesses of my mind that there were several styles of Tudor rose through the years, some of which had distinct dots in the middle and some had crowns. I'm rather looking for something like the Helena Snakenborg, I think it is at tudorportraits.com, in size but not necessarily with the double stemmed blossoms. Unfortunately the daughter that draws is away at college right now. Thanks again. Cassandra __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tudor roses
Hi all, I'd like to embroider some Tudor roses on a shift and I cannot draw, really cannot draw. So I would like to know if there is somewhere on-line I can find black and white line drawings of Tudor roses, preferably the five petal kind. Books with this kind of line drawing would also be great. Other Tudor flowers suitable for embroidery would also be of interest for later but I would like to get started on the roses soon. Thanks, Cassandra __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
