Re: [h-cost] any must-see exhibits in Dec or Jan?
If you, for some reason, wanted the upper midwest, this opens this weekend. http://www.startribune.com/entertainment/stageandarts/280213922.html From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of Charlene C [charlene...@gmail.com] Sent: Friday, October 24, 2014 12:25 PM To: h-needlew...@lists.ansteorra.org; h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] any must-see exhibits in Dec or Jan? I need to fly somewhere in December or January to keep my frequent flyer points active (apparently I've been using my husband's points too much). Therefore, I now have an excuse to go someplace in the continental US. Are there any must-see museum exhibits you'd recommend? [Or any other events, shows, points of interest, etc.; feel free to send to me off-list.] Thanks! --Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
Costco's bra camis are very long, but they have some spandex in them. On 2/4/14 11:29 AM, Purple Kat purplkat...@gmail.com wrote: Jumping in here - just to make a comment: I on the other hand are looking for camis with a 'shelf'. My big problem is that the manufacturers don't make the straps LONG enough. Nor the body of the cami longer than 'standard'. If I want long - I have to go bigger, and then it hangs on me. I am 5' 6 and have a small boned, long torso, short rise body. I prefer all cotton, and no 'ornamentation'. Can anyone suggest a place to look? The boy's undershirts are now too small, and they only seem to make men's in white. Katheryne On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 4:36 AM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.comwrote: A shelf is a lining over the bust area with elastic under the bust. It has no padding and generally made of the same fabric as the outer portion. Penny Ladnier, Owner The Costume Gallery Websites, www.costumegallery.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
After a couple of surgeries I now wear a compression camisole most of the time, except to exercise. They really are comfortable if done right. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of Cactus [shirleyjho...@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 4:11 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians I'm thinking maybe not tie the corsets so snugly. They are actually very comfortable to wear. Or look into corded stays rather than boned stays. Cactus Apache Junction, AZ From: Kathleen Norvell app...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 10:28 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians Aylwen, For Victorian, maybe the musicians could adopt Aesthetic dress, which requires no corsets. Just a thought. Kathleen -Original Message- From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 12:57 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians I'm thinking about Victorian fashion here. Are there any pictures of women itting down playing music? I've seen women corsetted when standing up laying the violin, but how did they manage playing the piano? Or are my usicians complaining too much? 'm right at the beginning in my research so far. any thanks, ylwen n 21 October 2013 15:48, Elizabeth Jones elizabethrjones2...@gmail.comwrote: Hi Aylwen, What have you tried so far? If we know what's already been tried there won't need to be any re-inventing of the wheel. For anything pre-1600 you are fairly safe to skip boning for anyone who isn't extremely high fashion (and musicians paid to perform for a ball definitely weren't high fashion) Elizabeth On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 2:33 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com wrote: Dear Friends Our dance group prides itself on wearing historically correct gowns and undergarments for our dance performances, but it is not comfortable for our pianist and other musicians. I am exploring ways I can bone the bodices of the gowns and still give sitting-down musicians breathing space - but still have the garments look close-to-accurate. Can anyone offer me any advice? We costume from 1450 through to 1900 - all styles along the way. Many thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Aylwen Gardiner-Garden* *Jane Austen Festival Australia http://www.janeaustenfestival.com.au/ * Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academyhttp://www.earthlydelights.com.au/ John Gardiner-Garden's Historic Dance book erieshttp://www.lulu.com/spotlight/earthlydelights __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1919 hairstyle
The make-up of the principals is also modern. And therefore jarring. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of Sharon Collier [sha...@collierfam.com] Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 10:46 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1919 hairstyle Look at Doctor Zhivago. Julie Christie's hair is pure 1960's, which spoils the look. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Susan Data-Samak Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 6:11 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1919 hairstyle A friend who has worked in costumed film pieces told me to look at the extras in a film to see authenticity. The extras are often actual re-enactors. The star usually refuses to wear authentic hairstyles and they movie makers give in to their vanity. I recall a B ( or maybe C) budget movie where Angie Dickinson played a Civil War woman. Her clothing was gorgeous and authentic but her hair was 1980's style. Spoiled the effect for me. Susan NJ On Oct 3, 2013, at 5:54 AM, Kate Bunting wrote: Another TV costume drama question... In the current BBC series Peaky Blinders (about a criminal gang in Birmingham post-WW1) a prominent female character wears her shoulder-length hair loose. http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p01fj945 This looks far too modern to me. Before short styles came in in the '20s, wouldn't women have put their hair up? Kate Bunting Retired librarian 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1919 hairstyle
Check out her make-up though. Pure cafe society. You are right about her hair, though -- bad silhouette on her dresses, too. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of Chris Bertani [chris...@goblinrevolution.org] Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 7:22 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1919 hairstyle Occasionally it's the other way around. I've seen a still from (I think Elizabeth and Essex) with Bette Davis with very Elizebethan hair while her ladies in waiting all have 1930's hairstyles. -- Chris Bertani www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes On Thu, Oct 3, 2013 at 6:10 AM, Susan Data-Samak pasov...@aol.com wrote: A friend who has worked in costumed film pieces told me to look at the extras in a film to see authenticity. The extras are often actual re-enactors. The star usually refuses to wear authentic hairstyles and they movie makers give in to their vanity. I recall a B ( or maybe C) budget movie where Angie Dickinson played a Civil War woman. Her clothing was gorgeous and authentic but her hair was 1980's style. Spoiled the effect for me. Susan NJ On Oct 3, 2013, at 5:54 AM, Kate Bunting wrote: Another TV costume drama question... In the current BBC series Peaky Blinders (about a criminal gang in Birmingham post-WW1) a prominent female character wears her shoulder-length hair loose. http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p01fj945 This looks far too modern to me. Before short styles came in in the '20s, wouldn't women have put their hair up? Kate Bunting Retired librarian 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Iron age tunic found in melting snow.
Just in time for teaching my fall seminar on the history of western garb. Thanks, Shelly From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of Catherine Walton [catherine.wal...@cherryfield.me.uk] Sent: Friday, August 30, 2013 4:53 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Iron age tunic found in melting snow. I thought you might like to see the photograph and read the piece about this complete tunic found in melting snow in Norway. It is thought to have been made between 230 and 390 AD. (There were also some archery equipment from a much earlier period revealed as the snow retreats.) http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-23849332 This is just a press release about two papers in the Journal of Antiquity, to which some of you may have access. Marianne Vedeler, of the University of Oslo, is the author of article about the tunic. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Ghent Alterpiece
bless you From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of Robin Netherton [ro...@netherton.net] Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 7:20 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ghent Alterpiece On 3/13/2012 4:37 PM, Wicked Frau wrote: Now if they will only do the same for the Arnolfini Wedding! You mean like this? http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/jan-van-eyck-the-arnolfini-portrait Zoom bar is at the right. For full screen, click the icon, or with luck this will work to get there directly: http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cid-classification/classification/picture/jan-van-eyck,-the-arnolfini-portrait/357170/*/moduleId/ZoomTool/x/-1212/y/-1913/z/7 --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] marking tools
I still use the tried and true (and, yes, somewhat time-consuming) method of basting through the pattern, leaving loops, and then cutting the treads so you get bits on both pieces of cloth. It is kind of the ultimate in control for me. I also use the square of chalk, since you can use a sharp knife to make a really narrow edge on them, although they need to be sharpened frequently. They are great along a straight edge. On 1/12/12 8:07 AM, Land of Oz lando...@netins.net wrote: I've just about had it with the standard pencil type marking instruments at JoAnn's. If you try to sharpen them enough to make a detailed line, the chalk breaks off. If you try to leave the end wide and blunt, you can't make anything but the most basic dots. What do you pros out there use? I have a wheel and marking paper, but that's really hard on the pattern tissues and I like to re-use them if possible. What's your favorite and where do you get it? thanks Denise Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Winter flowers for New England?
.and don't forget the prayer book -- always fashionable with a handkerchief From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of R Lloyd Mitchell [rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu] Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2011 2:29 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Winter flowers for New England? We have quite forgotten the Handkercheif as an important accessory for the bride of this time period...and most appropriate for a bride in a home setting. they were often heirlooms and might feature exquisite lace from the previous century. One might also see fans prominent in French or English illustrations. This was also a period when ribbons were a favor.? I am recalling an article seen this past spring of ribbon nosegays that were worked with laces for a competition (now where, where, where!).Perhaps it was Piecework...The June issue of the last three years has featured heirloom treasures of lace; many forms have been forgotten... of -Original Message- From: Elena House exst...@gmail.com Sent 11/25/2011 11:24:28 PM To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Winter flowers for New England?On Fri, Nov 25, 2011 at 11:22 PM, Elena House exst...@gmail.com wrote: ?I could swear I've run across several sets of how-to-make-artificial-flowers instructions in Victorian ephemera of the sort your characters might be likely to have run across, although I'm not enough of a masochist to try to hunt them down now... =} ...And I just noticed the 1830 bit, so ignore the Victorian part, please! Still, it seems like a skill that wouldn't be too outlandish to find locally--maybe the sister-in-law has a milliner friend. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] artificial whalebone
In a related project, I once took fairly stiff wire and wound really flexible wire around it in a tight spiral. It bent as I wanted, but didn't get weird. It was very narrow. On 11/16/11 5:01 AM, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg gilshal...@comcast.net wrote: Greetings, Has anyone had much luck cutting down the white plastic artificial whalebone, into much smaller pieces, say length-wise? I've tried soaking it in boiling water first to try and soften it up, I tried using a brand new exacto knife, scissors, and all I got was a mess and sore hands. I'm trying to create doll-sized (22) boning from the full sized piece since I can't seem to find anything that would make good doll boning in and of itself. If anyone has suggestions, I would love to hear them! Cheers, Danielle ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need help with faux leather color
All I can report is that I tried having a pair of good-quality, non-leather shoes dyed and it flaked off the first time I wore them. Shelly From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of Robin Netherton [ro...@netherton.net] Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 7:50 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Need help with faux leather color Not my usual historic, but a materials question that might be answered by you knowledgeable folks. I picked up a pair of reddish-brown fashion boots at a resale shop. Not leather, but they're a good imitation, they fit me perfectly, and they were cheap. Not till I got home did I discover -- in a better light -- that they aren't quite the same shade. One boot is noticeably lighter than the other. The store (Plato's Closet) refused to take them back, although the manager (who looked to be about age 21) agreed they were defective and said she shouldn't have bought or sold them in the first place. In any case, I'd really like to wear these, but not while their color is mismatched. So, I need a way to either lighten one, or darken the other, or color them both to match. They don't take shoe polish, and I doubt they'd take leather dye. I could, of course, spray-paint them gold or something, but that would defeat the purpose of having brown Western boots, which was my original need. No materials tag in the boots, but I found them online here (and a bunch of other places): http://www.urbanog.com/Breckelle-Outlaw-81-Buckle-Riding-Knee-High-Boot_109_15972.html ... and the description says man-made leatherette, which isn't very helpful. Any suggestions? OK if they end up looking dusty or faded, but I'd like to keep them looking Western. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
What about the armholes? Is there a difference in depth that would indicate front and back. On 8/10/11 1:24 PM, WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com wrote: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency men's white stockings
They are hideously expensive, but are almost indestructible. I think they are called compression socks, or some such, and they can be found in the travel section of places like Target and various pharmacies, or with the footcare section. On 6/27/11 7:39 AM, Kathryn Pinner pinn...@mccc.edu wrote: I just did Amadeus and two of my actors showed up with those white long socks/stockings/whatever they're called that hospitals use to keep your circulation going. They come up over the knee and are opaque and don't run. The actors (one was 5'-8, 300 lbs, and the other was 6'-3, 200 lbs.) said they were comfortable. Kate From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of stils...@netspace.net.au [stils...@netspace.net.au] Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 5:46 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency men's white stockings Depending upon how historically accurate you need to be, you may try some of the high-end erotic lingerie suppliers [Q or Queen size for larger cuts], -C. in the Fall. But I have not been able to find a source for those white stockings. I used some white knee socks once in Sound of Music but they This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year
Bjarne: A truly wonderful job and yes, the dress isn't that easy to view completely. To be fair, the museum has cut down access because their funds have been cut nearly every year since I started doing research there -- about 15 years. I'm surprised they can stay open at all. Still... Have you considered joining Dragtpuljen? It could give you an in with the whole country's museum crowd. It's harder to refuse someone you had coffee with last month at a conference. They are very nice people, in my experience, and are very open with their members. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews [drews...@post12.tele.dk] Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 1:17 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Forgot to mention that i had a lot of bad issues with the drawing of the flowers because number 2 motif had a fold at the exhibition, i could not see the whole motif. And i asked the museum for help, but i could not get help, even that it was another museum who wanted me to make it. Also it has become much more difficult to study at their collections. In a few years ago, i was always welcome to come out and examine their collections, now you have to write to them first, explain what it is you want to study and why, and then maybe, you are lucky to get an appointment. The lighting out there was so bad also, that i could not tell exactly the collours of the flowers, so i had a really high resolution picture wich i baught from the museum. I had to send the picture back, when i finnished, but i have copyed it on my computer. I regret now, that i didnt go more often to study when i could. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 8:00 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Hi Genie, The regency dress was made of cotton voillé and embroidered with DMC cotton threads, no beads was used. It was tambour embroidered. The original dress, you can see here: http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=76 I was out at the museum several times to study, the original dress was made from cotton and the embroidery was silk. I tryed hard to tambour with my silk floss threads, but the thread snagged all the time, so i had to make it in cotton. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Genie Barrett Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 4:01 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Bjarn, I can't tell, did you use any beads? Is the fabric cotton or linen? Beautiful, as always. Genie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year
And they are in the process of putting together a glossary of terms, which I would be very grateful to see further. The Danish terms are a nightmare to get right. I don't have the ability to drop everything and run over every time there is a conference for Dragtpuljen, either, although the idea certainly is attractive. Do you think we could work together to help with some of this? Your workmanship is so exquisite that it should be accomodated whenever possible. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews [drews...@post12.tele.dk] Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 2:19 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year I have joined Dragtpuljen some years ago, and i receive emails from them, but unfortunately i dont have the time to get to their meetings. But they are doing a wonderfull job for sure! I work full time besides my costume making, so my time is very limited. And regarding the research of danish costumes, (renaissance for instance) its very few who has researched this era, and therefore its difficult to find danish names for the different dress parts, thats the issue when you live in a country with few habbitants. Fortunately i know a coupple of people, Dorothy Jones and Camilla Dahl who makes a lot of reseearch. Also most of the inventory lists are written in german. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 8:25 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Bjarne: A truly wonderful job and yes, the dress isn't that easy to view completely. To be fair, the museum has cut down access because their funds have been cut nearly every year since I started doing research there -- about 15 years. I'm surprised they can stay open at all. Still... Have you considered joining Dragtpuljen? It could give you an in with the whole country's museum crowd. It's harder to refuse someone you had coffee with last month at a conference. They are very nice people, in my experience, and are very open with their members. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews [drews...@post12.tele.dk] Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 1:17 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Forgot to mention that i had a lot of bad issues with the drawing of the flowers because number 2 motif had a fold at the exhibition, i could not see the whole motif. And i asked the museum for help, but i could not get help, even that it was another museum who wanted me to make it. Also it has become much more difficult to study at their collections. In a few years ago, i was always welcome to come out and examine their collections, now you have to write to them first, explain what it is you want to study and why, and then maybe, you are lucky to get an appointment. The lighting out there was so bad also, that i could not tell exactly the collours of the flowers, so i had a really high resolution picture wich i baught from the museum. I had to send the picture back, when i finnished, but i have copyed it on my computer. I regret now, that i didnt go more often to study when i could. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 8:00 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Hi Genie, The regency dress was made of cotton voillé and embroidered with DMC cotton threads, no beads was used. It was tambour embroidered. The original dress, you can see here: http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=76 I was out at the museum several times to study, the original dress was made from cotton and the embroidery was silk. I tryed hard to tambour with my silk floss threads, but the thread snagged all the time, so i had to make it in cotton. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Genie Barrett Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 4:01 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Bjarn, I can't tell, did you use any beads? Is the fabric cotton or linen? Beautiful, as always. Genie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year
Virkelig flot! From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews [drews...@post12.tele.dk] Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 1:52 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Thanks for all your welcomes. I am glad you accept me here again. Here is my webpage with the tambour embroidered dress that almost killed me :-) http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/empire.htm Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance,
Please, a small correction: German was the language of the Court; it was NOT the language used in Denmark at that time. But most official documents were, indeed, in German. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Chris Laning [clan...@igc.org] Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 3:20 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance, In some danish inventory lists, which all are written in german (it was the language used then in Denmark) it is often mentioned with wide dresses and narrow dresses. If by renaissance you mean 16th century, then my first thought would be that a wide dress is made to go over a farthingale and a narrow dress is not (and would be worn with only petticoats). Welcome back! 0 Chris Laning | clan...@igc.org + Davis, California http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Modesty issues with the GFD
I agree with Robin: the wimple could solve all the problems, and oddly enough, they are comfortable. Plus, the undergarment can be cut relatively high; we don't really know how much, if any of it, could be showing. Paintings are only so-so in the trustworthiness department. On 4/14/11 2:04 AM, Robin Netherton ro...@netherton.net wrote: On 4/14/2011 1:55 AM, Tiberius Clausewitz wrote: I'm about to make the kind of 14th-15th century dress that usually comes up in discussions as the Gothic fitted dress (after Robin Netherton, I believe), and the problem I'm facing is that the neckline for such dresses tend to be rather open. Now, the friend I'm making the dress for is a devout-but-moderate Muslim you'd normally see wearing a business suit (you know, tailored coat and trousers) and a headscarf, so she has no issues with the rather figure-hugging profile of the dress, but she needs a way to cover her bosom and her hair without making her look like a spinster when she wants to wear the dress outside her house. We're both convinced that there _is_ a way, but we're not sure which options would have been realistically used by the women back then. The first thing that came to our minds was a button-up hood like the London hood (as in this example: http://tinyurl.com/6kbvprq ), and if it's indeed a good option then most of our problems would just go away instantly. Still, we can't help wondering if there's also some other option available, such as covering the chest with a fichu (would the 18th-century style still be kosher _four_ centuries earlier?) or partlet (which, after all, must have come from somewhere) when she's in the mood to wear the dress with a separate hat or to stick the hood on her head as a chaperon. So, any opinions? And thanks beforehand! The hood is a great option. The other obvious one is a wimple, which was worn for modesty and provides good sun protection as well. On warmer days, it'll be more comfortable than a hood. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] napoleonic costume exhibit
WANT! in my pathetic little gallery. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Ann Catelli [elvestoor...@yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 10:34 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] napoleonic costume exhibit Wow, that looks like quite the exhibit! Ann in CT --- On Sat, 4/2/11, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote: I came across mention of this exhibit of Napoleonic era costumes: ‘NAPOLEON AND THE EMPIRE OF FASHION’ An exhibition with over fifty mannequins meticulously dressed in genuine costume, accessories and jewelry complemented by contemporary prints and objects from the period 1795-1815. The exhibition website has a page for everyone to vote on where the exhibit goes next! Visit the site and vote for a city near you. It looks beautiful in the photographs. http://napoleon-fashion.com/wordpress/ I hope New York wins.. Katy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT: skin tone mesh long sleeved shirt
Sometimes called a body suit. On 2/17/11 2:17 PM, Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net wrote: I think what you're looking for is a leotard, or the top part of one. Try ballet costume suppliers. Kim -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 2:13 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] OT: skin tone mesh long sleeved shirt Good afternoon, This is slightly off topic, but at the moment my google seaching skills are totally failing me. I'm trying to find a skin-tone mesh top of the kind that would be worn with a stage costume; but I would prefer a long-sleeved shirt (even better if it buttons at the crotch) to buying fabric and having to sew it myself. Does such a thing exist? And if it does, where can I start looking? Right now I find absolutely nothing and I simply can't believe that nobody else has a need for something similar. Thank you! Audrey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] how museums can help costumers
Astrida: I must, unfortunately, agree with you. We haven't had time or funding to put all of our existing objects on the web, much less hi-res ones for detail. It is a sad commentary on what we would like to do for ourselves and the public and what is possible. Additionally, there are some museums that are unwilling to put up details and hi-res photos up because of copyright issues. On 11/11/10 4:52 PM, Schaeffer, Astrida astrida.schaef...@unh.edu wrote: Then I think one of the most useful things a museum could do would be lots of photos and get some darned closeups. The pictures I looked at on the from the link you posted for the Smithsonian didn't have anything that wasn't full length - no details at all. OTOH, some pictures I've seen from the VA get so close I could chart the knit or beaded designs. I really appreciate that kind of information online since it's unlikely I'll ever get to go to the museum. I work for a museum. We have a grand total of 4 staff. We all wear so many hats we can't keep track of them all. Personally, I'm responsible for the collection, the exhibitions, all museum security, the desktop publishing, supervising student fellows and work-studies, managing the climate control system, the museum shop, and more. I'd LOVE to have that level of detail for everything in the collection even for our own purposes let alone for interested visitors, but it's neither a time nor financial possibility at the moment... Astrida *** Astrida Schaeffer, Exhibitions and Collections Manager Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire Paul Creative Arts Center 30 Academic Way Durham, NH 03824-3538 603-862-0310 FAX: 603-862-2191 www.unh.edu/moa *** ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] how museums can help costumers
And publishers cannot afford to support images for books either. The Swede are developing a process for inexpensive publication photos. This might be helpful there, at least. On 11/12/10 7:08 AM, annbw...@aol.com annbw...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 11/12/2010 7:56:27 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, manordto...@stthomas.edu writes: Additionally, there are some museums that are unwilling to put up details and hi-res photos up because of copyright issues. And I guess that suggests something else WE can do to help museums--only use any images we acquire, whether on-line or in person, in an ethical way. I don't want to start the whole discussion about intellectual property again, but I hope people will remember that, just because something is posted on a website, doesn't mean one can take it and use it any way one wants to. But, on the flip side, I found when I was writing my book that some museums seem to view publication rights as a cash cow and are charging exorbitant rates. Don't get me wrong, I don't expect them to give them away, and I know funding is tight (I also work at a museum), but a couple--and absolutely perfect examples--were just into the stratosphere, and I didn't have the budget for them. I know photography costs money, too, but if the image already exists, I wish the rights could be more reasonable. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Book, Unravelling Textiles?
Hey, me too. If you find one, please post it. On 10/14/10 8:56 AM, mhprobe...@gmail.com mhprobe...@gmail.com wrote: Unravelling Textiles: A Handbook for the Preservation of Textile Collections, Foekje Boersma Can anyone comment on this book? I'm looking for one on this subject, but I'd like one that is focused on practical application of techniques. I'm not looking for too-basic (avoid light, humidity, temperature extremes) or ones that sound like grad school papers (contextualize, social construct, stakeholder, empower, dialectic). I need one that will inform me how/if to clean and repair or stabilize against further damage. thanks! Melissa Roberts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Words for clothes (WAS: Re: I found my way back!)
Few in academia seem to want to use costume anymore, but they are stuck with both organizations in the UK and US that use the name. Last year, the audience endured a 5 minute rant from a historian about how much she hated the use of costume -- it had to be apparel. And frankly, if they changed it to The Apparel Society of America it would sound like a retail group. So it really just depends. On 10/12/10 1:29 PM, Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com wrote: In the UK, you hear the term kit a lot. When doing my Victorian stuff, we usually say we are going in kit instead of in garb or in costume. :) From: Chris Laning clan...@igc.org To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 4:35:50 PM Subject: [h-cost] Words for clothes (WAS: Re: I found my way back!) On Oct 12, 2010, at 6:02 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: Now here is another interesting use of a word for one's clothing and accouterments. Had to look up exactly what regalia means--I have of course seen it to mean one's trappings, outfit, etc. Its origin, though, which makes sense if one thinks about it, is the rights and privileges belong to a monarch or ruler. I referred to myself as a costume historian to a War of 1812 reenactor, and he insisted his outfit is clothing, not costume. Yet, among square dancers, the preferred term for the matching outfits worn by everyone on the committee of a national square dance convention is costume. Clothing, apparel, attire, costume, regalia--I guess it is like one's own personal name--one should use the term the individual (or group) prefers. However, one shouldn't be offended if a poor soul uses the wrong term because one doesn't know what that group prefers! And in the Society for Creative Anachronism it's garb. When people are talking about their medieval clothes, they are sometimes garb, sometimes simply clothes -- very few people call them a costume (at least in my hearing), although someone who makes such medieval clothes is usually a costumer. I prefer clothes, as do many of the people I hang out with, but garb is handy as a one-word term for the clothes I wear to SCA events, as opposed to the clothes I wear on other days. OChris Laning clan...@igc.org - Davis, California +http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Shower?
I would LOVE to donate some of my things. Let us know what is needed. On 9/27/10 10:04 PM, annbw...@aol.com annbw...@aol.com wrote: Dear list friends, Please indulge me. A woman at my church has a friend, Vicki, an avid seamstress, who literally lost everything in a fire. I can't begin to imagine what it must mean to lose one's stash accumulated over years and years, among other things. I have already gone through my notions and culled a good many duplicates to pass on to her. Then it dawned on me that others could, perhaps, do likewise. So, I'm proposing that, if you feel inclined, US list members might look through YOUR stash and see if there is anything you could donate for a shower for this fellow seamstress. I'm suggesting US members only because I don't want foreign members to have to worry about postage and customs. If you are interested, please contact me privately. Thanks, all. Ann Wass annbw...@aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Upcoming book
Well, Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns is still listed as October, too. That is so not going to happen. Shelly On 8/27/10 8:45 AM, Leah Janette bear_ja...@msn.com wrote: Clothes of the Common People 1580-1660 http://www.artbooks.com/wc.dll?AB~emailReview~itemno=109311custno=12840 Shall we place bets as to whether it will really come out in October as announced? Janet ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 19th c women's dress - lining
Mucking about museums I have found - especially in middle class and below - that linings can be divided up by area. I have seen skirts, bodices, and sleeves all have different linings - probably all dependent on what the woman had (or even her seamstress - with no real worry about whether or not they matched. There also seemed to be a mismatch if the garment had been altered (usually let out at some time or other, probably to accommodate pregnancy or weight gain). So line the sleeves differently if you don't have enough of the blue for all of it. 19th century women below the wealthy were incredibly pragmatic - especially about the parts that were not seen. On 6/10/10 5:42 AM, Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com wrote: Thank you all for the answers about the bodice lining; I may very well have some navy blue cotton for lining, and it MIGHT be enough, but I have other cottons that might work.I just want to go with what might be most commonly used. I am making the whole dress up in a lightweight gray wool as well (since I ahve a load of it as well as matching lining)--She'll have an extra outfit, but I will be able to see that every part fits correctly (although the mock-up fits great), and Ill work out the buttons, closures etc. Yours in costuming, Li sA On Wed, 09 Jun 2010 18:09:38 -0700 Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com writes: On 6/9/2010 4:24 PM, Lisa A Ashton wrote: Also, should I plan to use a cotton or linen for the lining? Or could I use a silk? Because if silk would be acceptable for teh lining, I have a nice medium weight silk that I could dye myself, and I have lots of it. I am using a lightweight cotton for the interlining, the fabric is a calico cotton that an average weight--what you would use for quilting. I have an original early 1860s high-necked sheer cotton dress in a dark green stripe, with a low-necked black taffeta bodice lining. I've always assumed the lining might have been recycled from something else and was used for economy. I also have an original brown silk 1850s dress with a floral printed calico lining with a brown background. Usually you see a glazed cotton but in washable dresses, the glaze is often gone by now. White for white dresses, black for black dresses, various shades of brown for most. But as with the first two examples, dressmakers sometimes used what they had around that was the right weight. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dress forms
I could not agree more. They are very easy to alter for short-term or long-term use (or even weight gain/loss for personal sewing). I use them in the museum displays because I cannot afford of the period' mannequins. I recommend them. And when I have repadded or corsetted them, I slip a tight t-shirt or camisole over them for a smooth surface. On 5/28/10 12:31 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: For all the whining about the foam dummies, I'd just like to make clear that they are heads shoulders grin bettter than any other option. It's not hard to bob the exaggerated bits. It took only minutes to change excess boobage into protrusive shoulderblades. I cant stick pins in my plaster cast dummy. He was however, free, so I keep him. Foam squeezes just a little more to reshape just a smidge when you want to try a new style of corsetry. Plaster, paper tape dummies deform the underlying body you're trying to model. Dial-a dummies are just plain inadequate for most people. Really, there's no other sensible option: get a foam dummy. Pad her out with ace bandages, give her a boob-lift with a stocking full of birdseed, buy several covers and do one each for your corseted, bullet-bra natural shapes,. Sew her an arm for a sleeve form pin it to the cover when you need it. They last for years! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Posted by: foureverfaire foureverfa...@yahoo.com foureverfaire Thu May 27, 2010 12:38 pm (PDT) Though i don't have a dress form myself, i have frirends that do and i've heard others talk about having the same challenge of having to cut down parts of the Uniquely You Dress forms. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dress forms
Not all of them; be careful of foam type. And you can always wrap them in inert plastic, too. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Schaeffer, Astrida [astrida.schaef...@unh.edu] Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 8:09 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress forms Just be careful in museum settings-- they are not archivally sound, they outgas. Astrida From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. [manordto...@stthomas.edu] Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 1:39 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress forms I could not agree more. They are very easy to alter for short-term or long-term use (or even weight gain/loss for personal sewing). I use them in the museum displays because I cannot afford of the period' mannequins. I recommend them. And when I have repadded or corsetted them, I slip a tight t-shirt or camisole over them for a smooth surface. On 5/28/10 12:31 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: For all the whining about the foam dummies, I'd just like to make clear that they are heads shoulders grin bettter than any other option. It's not hard to bob the exaggerated bits. It took only minutes to change excess boobage into protrusive shoulderblades. I cant stick pins in my plaster cast dummy. He was however, free, so I keep him. Foam squeezes just a little more to reshape just a smidge when you want to try a new style of corsetry. Plaster, paper tape dummies deform the underlying body you're trying to model. Dial-a dummies are just plain inadequate for most people. Really, there's no other sensible option: get a foam dummy. Pad her out with ace bandages, give her a boob-lift with a stocking full of birdseed, buy several covers and do one each for your corseted, bullet-bra natural shapes,. Sew her an arm for a sleeve form pin it to the cover when you need it. They last for years! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Posted by: foureverfaire foureverfa...@yahoo.com foureverfaire Thu May 27, 2010 12:38 pm (PDT) Though i don't have a dress form myself, i have frirends that do and i've heard others talk about having the same challenge of having to cut down parts of the Uniquely You Dress forms. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns
And this date might actually be right. It will come out simultaneously in Danish and English, for those of you who prefer a Scando language. The technical information is quite amazingly thorough. Shelly N-M From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Deborah Lane [oonag...@bigpond.net.au] Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 6:14 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns 217 days to go ... Cheers Deb -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Wednesday, 17 March 2010 10:06 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns Just ran across this on Amazon: Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns (Hardcover) ~ Lilli Fransen (Author), Anna Norgard (Author), Else Ostergard (Author), Shelly Nordtorp-Madson (Translator) http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/8779342981/ref=ord_cart_shr?_e ncoding=UTF8m=ATVPDKIKX0DERv=glance Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns
Well, I knew it wasn't going to be late last year because the translation wasn't done. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond [ca...@thyrsus.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 7:32 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns On Tuesday 16 March 2010 8:12:23 pm Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. wrote: And this date might actually be right. It will come out simultaneously in Danish and English, for those of you who prefer a Scando language. The technical information is quite amazingly thorough. It was originally supposed to come out late last year. Then I heard that it was coming out in June 2010. We'll see when it ships. -- Cathy Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com No one can make as disastrous a bad choice as a smart person, because they sell it to themselves really well.--Tobias Buckell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Leine sleeve pattern
For gods' sake woman, get it tradmarked. I don't know you, but I do know cultural property. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Regina Lawson [reginalaws...@gmail.com] Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 8:41 PM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Leine sleeve pattern Since I am about to proliferate an original idea, I wanted to put it up here to make sure it doesn't get hijacked. I have studied 16th century Irish clothing for the last 25 years. Leine (Irish bag sleeves) have never looked right how they have been interpreted by re-enactors. SO, I fixed it. The 15th century bagpipe sleeves on men's outer garments is the basis of the idea. The pattern is seamed down the back of the arm, instead of in the underarm. It has a curved underarm and sleeve cap. (Looks like a doublet pattern, with the bag added.) The gusset under the arm is triangular, and set into the side seam to create a round armseye. They hang correctly. They don't fall on the ground when one tries to pick something up. And they provide the drape, as well as the elbow creases shown in some of the period illustrations. My pattern is coming in to use in my re-enactment group, Clan MacColin of Glenderry. I have been talking about this for a couple of years, and it has been used and works. Ever, Regina Lawson Historic Clothing Coordinator Clan MacColin of Glenderry ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Leine sleeve pattern
Thanks for the clarification. I still think she should make an attempt to get something out that will give her some credit for this exceptional piece of work. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small [sstormwa...@yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 2:33 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Leine sleeve pattern Without getting into too long a discussion, her idea cannot be trademarked, as it is not an item that falls under that category (it is not a word, name, symbol or device). I also don't know if she can copyright it (don't think so), as in the US, a general fashion design cannot be copyrighted, unless she were to create a specific paper pattern design and copyright that specific paper design. She also may not be able to patent the idea... as there is cause under prior art (tho a few centuries old prior art). I am not sure how she can protect this under modern legal protections. But I am glad Regina did figure this one out, as it is one I've pondered for many years as well, and knew she was working on it. Great job Regina! I look forward to seeing your garments done in this fashion (will you have a class at CoCo?). And if I see anyone else claiming they re-discovered this style, well we know otherwise. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ For gods' sake woman, get it tradmarked. I don't know you, but I do know cultural property. snip Since I am about to proliferate an original idea, I wanted to put it up here to make sure it doesn't get hijacked. I have studied 16th century Irish clothing for the last 25 years. Leine (Irish bag sleeves) have never looked right how they have been interpreted by re-enactors. SO, I fixed it. snip ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What is this woman making?
Swedes and Danes don't knit the same. Strange but true. On 2/16/10 7:22 AM, Kate Bunting k.m.bunt...@derby.ac.uk wrote: Carol Kocian wrote: I'm more curious about the woman who appears to be knitting something lace on two needles. She has them in that 50s housewife position with the ends up. I don't know about '50s housewives - I was taught to knit in 1950s England with the needle ends down - but I have seen a Norwegian lady knitting in that position. As these ladies are presumably Swedish, I guess it's a Scandinavian technique. Kate Bunting Librarian 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] mending by embroidery
One isolated example is the cache of grave clothing from medieval Greenland. I know a lot of people use them as typical for Europe as a whole, but that really can't be done. If you look closely at Woven into the Earth by Else Østergaard, you will see how they were patched. Again, a good number of garments, but probably doesn't say anything about the larger context. On 1/27/10 2:37 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu wrote: Sorry fora all the ?!!! my computer seems to have a mind of its own. KSM -Original Message- From: R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu Sent 1/27/2010 9:23:20 AM To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] mending by embroideryThanks for this explanation, Fran.? Your info tells the story for the 19th/20th Centuries which mirrors the evidence I have seen for myself. My larger question was how these mending methods might have been used in earlier times than the visable present.? Understanding that textiles were often legacies to be handed on, were there any guidelines of what was acceptable renovation or conservation? Kathleen -Original Message- From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com Sent 1/27/2010 12:14:54 AM To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] mending by embroidery On 1/26/2010 8:41 PM, K?the Barrows wrote: Question: are?there any historical ?references to this method in other t imes? Hippies didn't care if the mends showed, where Victorians/Edwardians did. So earlier mends were as invisible as the craft of the seamstress could produce. I've put directions for 19th-century mending techniques in some of my books. Mending techniques for linens run to darning. On surviving examples of underlinen and table linen, the darns are usually (not always) neat, but by no means invisible. Linens too damaged to darn were patched, neatly but not invisibly, and the material cut away underneath. The more expensive the article, the more invisible the mending technique. Fine lace was mended with lace-making techniques, and fine cashmere shawls were mended with reweaving techniques imitating the original weave. Dress materials were often recycled. The stained and worn parts were often discarded, but sometimes some had to be used and were covered over. One method for doing so was beading, made even more economical by recycling beads saved from damaged bead trimmings. Another method was covering the bad parts with multiple rows of presumably inexpensive braid. Flounces and ruffles sometimes covered bad material on skirts. The difference between the Victorian/Edwardian and 1960s/1970s philosophies, is that for the Victorians and Edwardians it was routine, and for the hippies it was Look, I'm recycling! If the Victorians and Edwardians used trimming to cover bad material, they made sure to arrange the material where trimming could logically be located. The hippies put the trimming anywhere. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing http://www.lavoltapress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Danish textiles (Fwd: [MEDTC-DISCUSS] Digest Number 159)
I have to agree; I am a subscriber and the articles are always exceptionally interesting, often ferreting out information found nowhere else, and put together by the most collegial group of museum people around; and if you don't like Danish, there is often (as here) one in Swedish or Norwegian. Highly recommended. The only problem is that they send notices of a constant string of seminars, meetings, and get-togthers that we would all sell our pet cats to go to. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of snsp...@aol.com [snsp...@aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 10:52 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com; sca-laur...@ansteorra.org Subject: [h-cost] Danish textiles (Fwd: [MEDTC-DISCUSS] Digest Number 159) You'll need to brush up on your Danish, but good stuff none the less. Nancy/Ingvild From: medtc-disc...@yahoogroups.com Reply-to: notify-dg-medtc-disc...@yahoogroups.com To: medtc-disc...@yahoogroups.com Sent: 1/23/2010 4:12:42 A.M. Eastern Standard Time Subj: [MEDTC-DISCUSS] Digest Number 159 Thanks to Camilla Luise Dahl for providing the English summaries. Current issue of a Danish dress journal Dragtjournalen, an e-zine published by Dragtpuljen and www.dragt.dk. Dragtjournalen - Vol. 3 #4 - 2009 (PDF - 2.5 mb) http://www.dragt.dk/dragt-journal/dragtjournalen.html Østergård, Else. Glimt fra hørrens 1000-årige historie – set ud fra arkæologiske og recente fund Bilag pp. 3-18. (Linen textiles in 1000 years, about archaeological finds and preserved linen textiles in Danish museums, short history of linen and it's first appearance in Denmark centuries later, some of the oldest fragments of woven linen in Denmark dates to the 6-7th century (Fig. 1), the article also describe the few linen textiles found in Greenland, found in the excavated farmhouses of the Northern settlers, the fragments are dating from 982-15th century. Among the latest textiles, Østergård explores the fine linen textiles from the tomb of the Earl of Bothwell, who died in Denmark in 1578) Rosendahl, Linda. Kläder och textil i räkenskapsböcker från 1400-tallet – Två senmedeltida godsherrars utbetalningar av löner samt inköp av tyg och färdiga persedlar pp. 19-39. (Cloth and clothing mentioned in the account books of two wealthy noblemen from the 15th century, one Danish and one Swedish, the article looks into the different types of cloth and clothing used by the landlords themselves and the clothing and cloth given to servants in the household) Short articles: Drews, Bjarne. Om at rekonstruere dragter til museer, pp. 40-45. (about reconstructing/constructing historical dresses for museum use, the making of an 18th century gown for Selsø¸ Herregård Museum) Dahl, Camilla Luise. Med klimt og klang - om klokker i klædedragten. pp. 46-51. (Explores the use of bells and similar in medieval dress, written accounts such as the accounts of Kalmar Union queen Margaret I (d. 1412) mentions belts with bells, the queen's belt of 20 pieces with 52 bells in chains is far from the more modest belt with just 5 bells seen on her tomb) Dahl, Camilla Luise Jones, Dorothy. 'Da “både” var på mode'. pp. 52-58. (about a type of female headwear known as boat that became the height of fashion in second half of the 17th century) Mathiassen, Tove Engelhardt. Adeline Genée-Isitts brudekjole i Den Gamle By. pp. 59-62. (The wedding dress of ballet dancer Adeline Genée-Isitt born Annine Jensen, wife of the duke of Newcastle, dated 1910. The wedding dress is now at the Den Gamle By in Århus Museum in Denmark) Varia: Dahl, Camilla Luise. Løsøret efter Karenn Tomaßdaathers Skriffuers, Vordingborg, 25. okt. 1638. pp. 63-67. Skiftet efter Amtmandinde Mette Margrethe Westh, f. Sonne. Rønne, 1. Dec. 1774. pp. 68-72. Skiftet efter Kammerjunker Hans Ahrenfeld, Kbh. 22. maj 1702. pp. 73-75. (Transcript of the probate records of Karen Skrivers 1638, Mette Westh 1774 and Hans Ahrenfeld 1702.) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The term hennin
Robin: I, of course, got the authors' names wrong, so I undoubtedly completely confused you. I can't find the French version at work, so it's probably in stratum 5 or 6 at home: I shall find it tonight to compare and contrast. However, my never to be praised sufficiently intern found the salient passage in Pipponier and Mane (not Perrine; that's Mane's first name). Page 13 (again, annoyingly not footnoted): Extreme caution is necessary, however, if erroneous identifications are to be avoided. One of the most famous examples is the word 'hennin', applied to the tall pointed hates worn by women at the beginning of the fifteenth century and used on the strength of a much later commentary, at several removes from the original. It appears that a preacher, who was a member of an order particularly opposed to women's interest in personal adornment, promised indulgences who would help him in his mission by shouting 'Au hennin!' at any woman wearing such headgear. His invective was taken to be the actual name of the hat. So, if someone knows medieval French well enough to say what au hennin means, that might make sense. Or it might be apocryphal. I will check the French version, though, just to see if it is more forthcoming. You probably knew this passage. On 1/18/10 8:51 PM, Robin Netherton ro...@netherton.net wrote: Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. wrote: Perrine and Mane's book on costume gives one explanation, but since they don't footnote anything, it's difficult to know if they are right. I know that metal headpieces of the same shape are found in pre-and Islamic graves in central Asia. One source I have read (and I cannot remember which, since it was years ago) said it came to Europe due to contacts with the Islamic countries. It's the word, not the shape, I'm trying to track ... or am I missing something? --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The term hennin
Robin: My brilliant, and by-lingual intern showed me how to access Gay on-line. Hennin was easily found, along with a source citation. http://books.google.fr/books?id=xKcTQAAJprintsec=frontcoverdq=victor+gay+glossaire+archéologique+du+moyen+age+et+du+renaissancesource=blots=STwKCgNsEVsig=nYh6dJbB7L_oHdB5vBNCHmlkTNAhl=frei=ciZXS8LyEYHkNbqXgNQEsa=Xoi=book_resultct=resultresnum=1ved=0CAcQ6AEwAA#v=onepageq=Henninf=false It was under hair/coiffure things. On 1/20/10 9:40 AM, Robin Netherton ro...@netherton.net wrote: _Glossaire archéologique du moyen age et de la renaissance ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The term hennin
Perrine and Mane's book on costume gives one explanation, but since they don't footnote anything, it's difficult to know if they are right. I know that metal headpieces of the same shape are found in pre-and Islamic graves in central Asia. One source I have read (and I cannot remember which, since it was years ago) said it came to Europe due to contacts with the Islamic countries. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton [ro...@netherton.net] Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 6:42 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] The term hennin otsisto wrote: I do not know why you are looking it up in OED as it isn't English. (Did the English wear hennins?) The word is used in modern English (and it's in the OED as such), and the OED gives etymologies, so I was hoping for a clue -- but as I noted, OED is not my reference of choice for costume terms, just what I happened to have at hand. I'm not at a library today. I was rather hoping someone had already trodden this ground before, so I could give my inquirer an accepted answer. But it's not a question I'm going to be able to take time to research, and I don't expect anyone else to spend a lot of time on it. I am not 100% sure where I saw the info but I believe it is Old French or possibly of Neitherland origin. I vaguely remember something about hennin and a cockscomb association. I think the modern Dutch word for cockscomb is hanekam. I am unsure what the medieval word would be. That's as good an idea as any, and probably more likely than hent or henne. Julian was probably right to look at medieval Flemish, but that's way out of my range of references at hand. Overall, though, it's sounding like there isn't a previously researched, accepted etymology. Rather, it might be good subject for a research project. In this case, for someone else, not me! Regardless of etymology, though, even one contemporary inventory reference that uses the word would answer my inquirer's question, as she was told the word wasn't actually used for the headdress in the period, except perhaps as a term of derision. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The term hennin
It was more that an Islamic origin would be possibly seen as perjorative. When I get to work tomorrow, I will look it up in P M. I have both French and English versions; neither is footnoted, but at least the French has an index. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton [ro...@netherton.net] Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 8:51 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] The term hennin Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. wrote: Perrine and Mane's book on costume gives one explanation, but since they don't footnote anything, it's difficult to know if they are right. I know that metal headpieces of the same shape are found in pre-and Islamic graves in central Asia. One source I have read (and I cannot remember which, since it was years ago) said it came to Europe due to contacts with the Islamic countries. It's the word, not the shape, I'm trying to track ... or am I missing something? --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sound of Music
Edward Maeder's book, Hollywood in History, pretty much sums up what Hollywood does in theory and practice. It is a must-have-must-read. There are even charts of hair and make-up. The general idea is that American audiences apparently cannot relate to main characters that look too foreign and so, while the minor characters might be more accurate, the main characters usually retain make-up, silhouettes, and even modified hairstyles of their own times, regardless of when the movie is to have taken place. I do not think as highly of Bette Davis, when you look at both her efforts as QEI -- her silhouettes are right out of the decades when they were made. The Brits seem to be more interested in verisimilitude (all the Poirot and other mysteries), but then you get King Arthur and Kiera Knightly in a leather bikini. Yikes. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad [syl...@ntw.net] Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 6:47 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sound of Music I noticed that too when watching Giant, I think it was. It starts in the early 1920s but the costumes look like 1950s, when the movie was made. For some reason, it seems like costume designers from the 50s and 60s were not at all interested in any sort of historical accuracy.  Sylvia Rognstad Costume/clothing design construction Alterations home dec http://www.ezzyworld.com On Dec 28, 2009, at 5:15 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: The outfits that Baroness Schraeder ears struck me as not particularly 1930s, but I really don't know anything bout that period, so I thought of asking what this list had to say. Any pinions? When I worked in a local theatre costume shop, several of the regulars were big fans of the movie, but, given the awful costumes, I couldn't see why. Yes, the Baroness is in '60s fashions. The hairstyles and makeup are even worse. Maria, of course, is in generic middle European peasant style at the beginning. Don't know how authentic the nuns' habits are, but at least they look right. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Martha Sieting oserm...@msu.edu To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2009 2:42 pm Subject: [h-cost] Sound of Music So hubby and I watched The Sound of Music last night (there was nothing else n and those old classics are fun sometimes anyway) and I found myself wondering bout the authenticity of the costuming. The outfits that Baroness Schraeder ears struck me as not particularly 1930s, but I really don't know anything bout that period, so I thought of asking what this list had to say. Any pinions? Many thanks and happy holidays! -Martha __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Have you seen this magazine cover?
It looks like my grandparents' weddings from 1924 1925. On 11/9/09 3:02 AM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com wrote: Please, please help! I purchased a magazine bridal cover that had been cut up. I am needing to have the date it was published because I have two photos of brides with this same style lace veil. The cover is from Pictorial Review (PR) from the first half of the 20th Century. The illustrator is McClelland Barclay, a popular magazine cover illustrator. Under the bride illustration is the title Special Easter Feature. The magazine originally costs 10 cents. The former owner cut the publication date off the cover. If you have Pictorial Review magazines can you please check and see if you have this front cover and let me know the publication date. You can see the cover at: http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/pictreview_med.jpg I searched Google for a couple of hours and could not find it. I did find this illustrator's PR bridal cover issues for 1915 and 1931. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 12 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Viking alternate history--14thC/15thC Vinland?
Grass. They could weave grass. But don't count on it. On 9/30/09 10:44 AM, Käthe Barrows kay...@gmail.com wrote: What kinds of fibers would the scraelings have had to weave with? Strips of leather? Strips of bunny fur? Some American native tribe wove of strips of bunny fur, but I don't remember who or when. so what would they have made clothes and blankets out of? The Mexican natives (Aztec, Maya, etc.), and those south of them (Inca), wove of something like wool - goat? mountain sheep? - pre European conquest. Examples survive in museums. The Northwest Coast natives also wove, but I don't know when they started and if it was only after they got European wool. The American Southwest natives did too, same date/supply question. -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed. -William Gibson -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
