Re: [h-cost] Facebook page

2015-05-30 Thread Susan B Farmer

On 5/30/2015 1:47 PM, scarlettday wrote:

   I was of the understanding that there was a Facebook page for the group, if 
there is one how can I find it?


I don't know about one specific to this group but there are a blue 
million historic costume groups.  Are you looking for a specific time 
period, or just Historic Costuming in general?


Susan
--
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Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
College of Science and Math
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[h-cost] question about antique academic regalia

2012-09-11 Thread Susan B. Farmer
I was just given a (for me) priceless gift -- a silk academic (doctoral) 
gown that's about 50 years old.  I'm fairly certain that it needs to be 
dry-cleaned.  Any comments/suggestions/caveats/etc?


Thanks!

Susan
--
Susan B. Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
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http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer
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Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?

2011-08-06 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 8/6/2011 5:17 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

I never even heard of this live journal thing. i know you said what it
is, more of less, but I guess I don't understand how it works. Is it
different from looking at a bunch of individual blogs?

LiveJournal and DreamWidth have the idea of Friends Lists (or Reading 
Lists) down to a fine art.  You subscribe (for lack of a better word) to 
folks that you want to follow (like Kimiko, for instance), and then on 
your Reading page, all their entries show it.  It's **MUCH** 
micer/easier (IMO) to follow than a bunch of different blogs.  They all 
come to one place.  I also think it's easier to have a discussion on LJ 
or DW than it is on most blogs because of the way the comments are 
structured.  It's very easy to follow a comment thread there.


Susan/ jerusha/ FlorentineScot
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sfar...@goldsword.com
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Division of Science and Math
http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer/
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Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?

2011-08-06 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 8/6/2011 5:26 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

Beteena,

I've read a fair number of LJ posts. I still think both LJ and other
blog formats work like this:

One person (or a group of people who have assembled for the long term
specifically to post the blog entries) posts on a regular and/or
frequent basis. The post is like a short magazine article or essay.

Then, other people comment on the post. Many of the comments are on the
Great work! or I agree! lines. Some are substantive, but even so,
not usually more than a paragraph or two long.

I would argue that this is a different format from a discussion group
like h-costume, where anyone can broach any subject at any time, and it
is easy for multiple people to engage in each discussion. If in a blog
format, one person is responding to another's blog on his/her own blog,
and then people have to respond to that post, it's just a lot harder for
this to be a general discussion where everyone can tell what is going on.



Oh, very much so.  Here, anybody can start a discussion about anything. 
 There, you have to respond to what I say.


Each of the venues, Facebook, Journaling sites, Blogging sites and even 
Discussion Boards have their own intended purpose and methods of 
interacting.  I suspect it's just the summer heat and a temporary lull 
in the lists.  It happens to all lists from time to time.


And as somebody, Kimiko?, mentioned, Costume College was last weekend. 
Folks are probably recovering!


Susan


--
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sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer/
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Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?

2011-08-06 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 8/6/2011 7:08 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

Geez. I'm even more out of it than I thought I was. i thought all I was
missing out on was facebook and twitter (and texting). Now I see it's
Live Journal too. When do people find time to do all this computerized
social networking and have a life?



Life?  Actually, many of my students interact with me preferentially 
through facebook rather than traditional email.  But then, teaching eats 
anything resembling much of a life for me!  :-(  (I love teaching, don't 
get me wrong; I just miss having time to do things other than grade 
papers for 250 students!)


Susan
--
Susan Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer/
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
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Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress

2011-07-25 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 7/25/2011 5:41 PM, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

I used cotton velveteen.



Thanks.

Susan
--
Susan Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
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http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer/
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Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress

2011-07-25 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 7/25/2011 8:15 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:




  Melanie, what did you use for your velvet trim?  I'm wondering about
annabalizing my plastic robe for it .


I had great ambition to make my own robe, but then didn't stay in academia.  
However, I bought lots of the stuff, including black velvet ribbon for the 
trim. I think that would be easier to manage than making your own strips from 
velvet or velveteen yardage.



I contemplated that as well.  You can see rolls of it in various widths.

Susan
--
Susan Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer/
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Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress

2011-07-24 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 7/24/2011 10:16 AM, Heather Rose Jones wrote:

On Jul 23, 2011, at 6:36 PM, Susan B. Farmersfar...@goldsword.com  wrote:



Second -- what I'm looking for is what was Medieval/Renaissance Dress. Our dean 
keeps saying that Academic Dress (tm) is unchanged since the 14th Century -- I 
want to know what 14th C Academic Dress looks like!



When I get home I'll give you the reference for what I found when I had a similar 
question. The short version of my own conclusions was the styles are clearly 
related, but if you showed up at a modern college graduation wearing a 14th c cap and 
gown, it would be instantly identified as odd. 



Thanks!  I've threatened to do just that, though.  I'd probably check 
with TPTB first, though!


Susan
--
Susan Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer/
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
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Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress

2011-07-24 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 7/24/2011 3:03 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

Was'/t there someone on this list who made their own medieval academic gown (in 
addition to defending their dissertation)and sent a photo journal of the 
process?
Patty


It wasn't a Medieval Gown -- it was a modern gown, but yes.  There is a 
blog about that.  :-D  I don't *think* she's on this list though.


Susan
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Susan Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer/
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[h-cost] Academic Dress

2011-07-23 Thread Susan B. Farmer
I'm looking for information on Academic Dress -- and I turned to 
Davenport -- they have the nice section on Clerical Dress.


The appendix lists several figures: 323, 594-596, 1560-1578, and 1759.

1561-1578 are Academic Gowns as is 1759. 323 and 594-596, however, are 
clearly *NOT* academic regalia (nor are they identified as such in the 
captions or text).


Was there ever a set of corrections for the figures in Davenport? Does
anybody know what those correct figures might be?

Thanks!

Susan/ Jerusha
--
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sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer/
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
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Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress

2011-07-23 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 7/23/2011 6:16 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:


What is your specific quiry? Like uniforms, the various robes and garments are 
particular to the various institutions that were required for students to 
wear.? When it comes to modern day garb, these garments may be eclectic 
according to the institutions requiring them for ceremonies. The stoles and 
hoods are now regulated somewhat to be reprsentative of specific 
universities/colleges re school colors and disciplines.


First -- as I mentioned in the original email, what are the actual 
figures referenced in Davenport -- the index is incorrect.


Second -- what I'm looking for is what was Medieval/Renaissance Dress. 
Our dean keeps saying that Academic Dress (tm) is unchanged since the 
14th Century -- I want to know what 14th C Academic Dress looks like!


Susan


-Original Message-
From: Susan B. Farmersfar...@goldsword.com
Sent 7/23/2011 12:08:25 PM
To: Historical Costumeh-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Academic DressI'm looking for information on Academic Dress 
-- and I turned to
Davenport -- they have the nice section on Clerical Dress.
The appendix lists several figures: 323, 594-596, 1560-1578, and 1759.
1561-1578 are Academic Gowns as is 1759. 323 and 594-596, however, are
clearly *NOT* academic regalia (nor are they identified as such in the
captions or text).
Was there ever a set of corrections for the figures in Davenport? Does
anybody know what those correct figures might be?


--
Susan Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer/
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
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Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress

2011-07-23 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 7/23/2011 10:30 PM, Aurora Celeste wrote:

Margaret Scott's new book Fashion in the Middle Ages has a section on
academic dress: pgs 74-7.  I don't know much about modern academic wear, but
I'd say it only bears a passing resemblance.  Also, my
knowledge-of-all-specialist-of-none background makes me think probably not,
since I think modern doctoral robes are like choir robes with all the
cartridge pleating and I don't think many garments displayed cartridge
pleating until the late 16th century.



Sweet.  Amazon's look inside feature just let me look at those pages. 
 :-D


While not exhaustive, that's more than I knew before -- and it's got 
illos -- and ideas for further research.


Thank you so much!

susan (goes to order book)
--
Susan Farmer
sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer/
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Re: [h-cost] (no subject)

2011-01-10 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 1/10/2011 8:47 PM, cora hendershot wrote:

but, if you manually enter www.stylecloud.com, you get a site on voting about 
food. Was this what was intended?



no, she was hacked and is taking steps to remedy the problem.

Susan/ jerusha
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sfar...@goldsword.com
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Re: [h-cost] Fabric swatches

2010-10-18 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 10/18/2010 12:55 AM, Kimiko Small wrote:

The main wool swatch set I know of is in the book All About Wool : Fabric
Dictionary and Swatchbook. It is a bit pricey, which is why I've not picked up a
copy yet.

I've also received some nice wool swatches from Wm Booth, Draper, which they can
send to you on request. You have to email them, and ask for specific color
swatches on the types you are interested in. I requested a few which they sent
me for free. You could see about requesting all of what they have and what cost
that might be. It doesn't hurt to ask at least. Sadly, their purples were too
dark for my needs, but I'm still itching to buy some of their
red/clarets. Kimiko Small


Actually that Swatchbook sounds like it would be more useful.  I'm just 
looking for generic swatches of generic weights, weaves and surfaces -- 
nothing specific.


Wonder if there are any used copies around!

jerusha/ susan
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sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
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Re: [h-cost] Sheer linen

2010-10-16 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 10/16/2010 9:58 AM, Wicked Frau wrote:

This company sells it:  http://www.ulsterlinen.com/  Very nice stuff.

So does this one:  http://www.libecohomestores.com/index_en.htm

http://www.libecohomestores.com/index_en.htmThey used to be known as Linen
House.



That's some nice stuff.  Is there a place in the states that sells a 
sheer linen?  I *finally* got my fabric swatches from fabric-store.com, 
and they're all heavier than I want for that.


jerusha
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sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
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http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
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Re: [h-cost] Sheer linen

2010-10-16 Thread Susan B. Farmer

On 10/16/2010 4:16 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

In spite of the name, the Ulster Linen Company is in New York.



I did not know that.  I do have a very nice piece of pale yellow from them.

Thanks!

Jerusha
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sfar...@goldsword.com
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
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Re: [h-cost] Plucked, Shaved Braided

2007-07-31 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Mary + Doug Piero Carey [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


www.worldcat.org says that the British Library in Wetherby, W Yorkshire
has it.  However, their library catalog denies it.  This sometimes
happens when an item has been ordered, but not yet unpacked.  I'd give
them a call.

The other locations so far are Long Beach, CA; Houston TX; Dunedin, NZ

This title must be fairly new, for so few locations to show on
worldcat.  Kent State doesn't even have it yet!



Apologies if I missed an earlier post -- I've had my head in a  
dissertation (I took it to the printers today! ...)


Has this actually been printed?

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns

2007-07-20 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Susan B. Farmer wrote:



They'll be $1.99 at Joann's next week, July 22-28. Limit 10.



Well, dang-it-all!  I just bought a boat-load from Hobby-Lobby for   
$0.99 ...  Was this book out yet?  noo.  harrumph!




I hate it when that happens. Worse, when the book is out, but the local
store doesn't have the patterns yet. That's really frustrating.


I had to pick up a prescription at WalMart today -- and they don't  
have the new book.




Hobby Lobby has some good deals from time to time, but they like to
tear the top of the envelope off when you buy them on sale. I can see
marking the envelope like Hancock's does, so it can't be returned for
full price, but the envelope flap often has important sizing
information on it! I refuse to buy patterns at Hobby Lobby any more
because of that.



This was my first HL pattern buying experience ($0.99 and no limit --  
WooHoo!) but she didn't tear the flaps off on the patterns that I  
bought.  I'll keep that in mind next time I go there.


susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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[h-cost] question about a book

2007-07-20 Thread Susan B. Farmer


Does anybody know anything about this book?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=200129359893

Thanks!
susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
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http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity patterns

2007-07-20 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Abel, Cynthia wrote:

Simplicity has three new costume patterns in the Autumn 2007 catalog and
you can see pics online at www.simplicity.com


.


Wait for those $1.99 pattern sales!



Oooh! Lots of fun new costumes this month.

They'll be $1.99 at Joann's next week, July 22-28. Limit 10.



Well, dang-it-all!  I just bought a boat-load from Hobby-Lobby for  
$0.99 ...  Was this book out yet?  noo.  harrumph!


susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
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http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] question about a book

2007-07-20 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Susan B. Farmer wrote:


Does anybody know anything about this book?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=200129359893




It's a children's survey book with line drawings and watercolors as
shown on the cover. There's a whole series of books by the same author,
houses, great painters, various periods in history. Your local library
might have some of them. There's a review of it on Amazon, if you
haven't already checked.



LOL.  Probably should have tagged that Migraine Alert.  I never even  
thought of Amazon!  That's about what I figured.



Thanks
susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
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Re: [h-cost] David Brown Book Company Fall releases

2007-07-09 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Cynthia J Ley [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Yeah, ok--BAD ARLYS!!! BAD, BAD, BAD!!!

Feel better now?

Me either. ;)

Had a question re: Eleanor of Toledo's gown--is her dress appliqued and
embroidered, or?


oh, no.  It's a pile fabric -- like Velvet.

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
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Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume

2007-06-18 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Michelle Plumb [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


A Robe a la Francaise sewn and embroidered by Bjarne, complete with
corset, pannier, stomacher, hat, cap and purse.




or *anything* done by Bjarne .

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting

2007-05-10 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Glenda Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Don't ask why, but I looked for a good close-up pic:

http://www.christusrex.org/www2/berry/DB-f2v-d3l.jpg (No blurring here...)

However, it does show that  the woman to the left of the man is showing all
as well.



LOL!  I'd never noticed the woman before!

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting

2007-05-09 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Kate M Bunting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


It's well known that 18th century sideboards had a cupboard for a
chamber-pot, to be used by the gentlemen after the ladies had retired to
the drawing-room. No doubt in the more robust 17th century it was
considerd OK to do so in mixed company.
On the subject of bowdlerised paintings - isn't there a medieval scene
(I think in the Tres Riches Heures) showing people warming themselves by
a fire, including a man holding up his tunic (?) skirts and showing
everything? I've seen a reproduction of that with the relevant area
blurred over. Also, Hogarth painted a friend of his leaning out of bed
being sick in a chamber pot, which was later repainted at the request of
the man's family to make him appear to be reading in bed.



Yeah.  It's February.  All the dangly bits are in plain view.

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting

2007-05-08 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



On Mon, 7 May 2007, otsisto wrote:


Where did you find the first pic? as I think it is not the original
but an altered picture. Kind of like the picture of Henry VIII instead
of holding a glove is holding a roasted turkey leg or an Italian
painting of a grandfather and grandson where the grandfather has a
bulbous nose and they put a fly on it.


The clean painting has muddy areas where the pot was, and the man's
garments are still pulled open and turned up inexplicably. The bawdy
version is the older one.



And you can tell where the chair back that he's supposedly leaning  
on was added later -- it doesn't fit well.


susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery

2007-05-05 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


This is one of those times. I'm talking with another researcher who's
working with a text reference to embroidery. One possible interpretation
of the reference would be that it describes embroidery that appears on
both the inside and outside of the fabric. To me, that sounds like
something on the line of blackwork, designed to be neat and finished
looking on both the right and wrong side, and thus suited to things like
cuff and collar edges that might be turned out.

So, questions:

1. Is my memory correct -- is this indeed a characteristic of blackwork?
Or any other kind of historic embroidery style?


Blackwork can be reversible -- but it doesn't have to be.



2. Is this characteristic actually documentable to any non-modern
examples? (I know it's easy to assume that a standard definition of a
technique must date back forever, but it might be done differently in
different periods.) If so, how early? I mentally associate blackwork in
particular with the Tudor period, but the reference in this case is about
1400.


To my knowledge -- and blackwork isn't my thing -- blackwork is  
later than 1400.  There are more knowledgeable folks on this list than  
I in that respect.


susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
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RE: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery

2007-05-05 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



On Sat, 5 May 2007, Robin Netherton wrote:


That would certainly be the case for, say, a doublet, but for the cuffs or
collars of linen chemises, which are not lined, why would the embroidery
be done in advance, or assumed not to be seen? Chemises in 16th century
paintings are often shown with blackwork embroidery on cuff edges and
collars; presumably the insides of the cuffs would be readily visible, and
collars might be turned out in some cases.


Like this:

http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=11viewmode=1item=49.7.32

About 135 years later than the reference I'm tracking, but shows a case in
which one might think of making an embroidered edging on a chemise look
good both inside and outside. I can't get close enough to her right cuff
to see whether it is reversible, though.



NOw that I can help with.  Here's a larger image that I scanned out of  
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked

http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/english_FairGeraldine-qewuFig239.jpg
or
http://tinyurl.com/2qtsgn

Depending on your browser, you may need to click it to see it full sized.

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery

2007-05-05 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



On Sat, 5 May 2007, Susan B. Farmer wrote:


NOw that I can help with.  Here's a larger image that I scanned out of
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/english_FairGeraldine-qewuFig239.jpg
or
http://tinyurl.com/2qtsgn


Aha. I have the book, just haven't hunted for images in my own library.
(I'm up to my eyes in preparing for my own sessions at K'zoo and am
passing on this question as a favor for another presenter -- I can't spend
much time doing her work for her, though).

Yes, it does look like the embroiderer would have understood that the
inside of the cuffs here would be visible.


There are lots of examples from this period both in English and  
Italian art where the collar/cuffs are embroidered with the  
implication that both sides will be seen -- more can be forthcoming if  
you need additional examples.  I don't know what the earliest such  
example is, though.


susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] Embroidery Question

2007-04-23 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Tori Ruhl [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Hello all!

Let me preface this by saying that I don't know that much about embroidery.
I want to put gold couching on velvet. Should I make a frame big   
enough to accomodate the entire pattern piece?

I would think that a hoop would damage the velvet, so I'd rather not do that.


If you stitch for *short* periods of time and don't leave the fabric  
in the hoop, you won't see much compression of the velvet.  My piece  
is home, I'll try and remember tonight to check it and see.


And this piece (a pouch) actually has the hoop large enough so that  
the pouch itself is completely within the hoop.  It would help if you  
had a hoop large enough.  A scroll frame would work too, and it might  
be easier to manipulate.




What if I'm embroidering an entire skirt? Do I need a frame big   
enough for that pattern piece as well?
Orshould it be embroidered on a different fabric and appliqued   
onto the garment?


yes.  :-)  Applique was indeed done in pre-1700 garments when the  
final, fashion fabric was velvet.  I don't know about later stuff, but  
I don't see why it wouldn't be!  Other folks will know the answer to  
that one I'm sure.  What period are you doing?




I'm not as concerned with historically accurate techniques, yet, as   
I am with just getting from point A to point B with as few migraines  
 as possible.




If you haven't prewashed everything, applique might make it easier to  
clean -- especially if you're doing metal thread.  You could just take  
the applique off ...


susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] Canadian (Lattice) Smocking

2007-04-14 Thread Susan B. Farmer


If I can steer this conversation away from the portrait of Queen  
Elizabeth, I believe that the original question was about this Italian  
Gown


http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bronzino/2/panciat2.jpg

susan (of 2 minds about the portrait of Elizabeth -- I can see it either way!)
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Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking

2007-04-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer


OK.  I'll ask the ignorant question ...

What *is* Canadian Smocking and how is it different from any other  
kind of smocking?


susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost]Canadian Smocking

2007-04-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Elizabeth Walpole [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



- Original Message - From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]



OK.  I'll ask the ignorant question ...

What *is* Canadian Smocking and how is it different from any other   
 kind of smocking?


susan


I had the same confusion until I looked at the website mentioned at the
beginning of this thread
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php and found out it's
actually what I've always seen described as Lattice smocking in
English/Australian texts (this other name must be a north American
thing)


Thanks!  I've always heard it called Lattice Smocking too.

susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.

2007-03-30 Thread Susan B. Farmer




WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Holbein's English Burgher's wife (In color - I have it in black and white)
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/english.jpg

A Fete at Bermondsey, Jorges Hoefnagle, 1575



Saragrace, I don't remember off the top of my head what book I scanned  
these from, but here's my collection of Bermondsey images .  The  
first 4 images are 2Megabytes or better -- one is 3.6, I think.  The  
quality of the image wasn't very good -- the printing screen was  
overly visible.


http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel1.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel2.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel3.jpg
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/hoefnagel4.jpg

Hope this helps!

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.

2007-03-30 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


My goodness - this helps a lot!  Thank you!  I am contacting the Bridgeman
Art Library who has them in High resolution...who knows what they will cost.
Thank you so much for sharing...



Oh, yeah -- let us know what you find out!

susan
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Susan Farmer
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RE: [h-cost] Books with these images in them.

2007-03-30 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


My goodness - this helps a lot!  Thank you!  I am contacting the Bridgeman
Art Library who has them in High resolution...who knows what they will cost.
Thank you so much for sharing...



Sure thing.  I view it sorts of like my collection of Genealogy Photos  
-- I can enjoy them, but it's ever so much fun to spread the joy  
around!  :-)


susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes

2007-03-29 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

My students have been asking some really good questions.  These   
questions I only know the answers from personal experience.  I lived  
 in Mississippi at the time and do not know if we were really far   
behind fashion or not.  If you answer these questions, please let me  
 know your location and the app. year you remember these fashions   
were worn to public elementary through high school:


Knox Co., TN -- High School 1967-1971



1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured


At one time, I seem to remember that the skirt had to touch the floor  
if you knelt, but by the time I graduated, IIRC, they had to be  
fingertip length ...



2. Girls' pants:  When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school.


nope.  not even coulottes.


Pants-suits, hiphuggers?
3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair


yes


4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed


I think so

susan
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Re: [h-cost] Looking For Drea

2007-03-23 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Margo Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Does anyone have a good contact for Drea Leed?  I've gotten no answers
to emails I've sent to the address on her website.



I know that she was at Gulf War (SCA) this past week.

Susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] WOOOHOOOO!!!

2007-02-19 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Sorry but its so quiet here on the list, and i just had to share.
I have finnished! with the anglaise dress.
I dont know if you have had the same feeling as i have now, but this
dress is f.. beautifull. Its my masterpiece ever.
I shall rush home from work tomorrow with a big box from the postoffice
to send it in, and i shall take some nice pictures in the daylight, its
evening now, and the flash pictures are bad.
God i am so happy, and its nice to get it send away so that i can have
my mind focused on the new dress i am going to make



WooHoo!  Can't wait for the pictures!

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Chicago trip

2007-02-17 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Wendy Colbert [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

If you are looking for something other than fabric stuff and you   
like zoos, Chicago had 2 really nice zoos. You can't go wrong with   
either Lincoln Park or Brookfield, although Brookfield is larger.


Probably will.  The meeting is at the Museum of Natural History ...

:-D

susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Chicago trip

2007-02-17 Thread Susan B. Farmer


BYW, thank you to everyone who's offered suggestions.  I've not  
responded to each of you individually -- and I don't want to clutter  
the list with a thanks to each individual email ...


so *THANKS*

susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations

2007-02-16 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


http://www.artic.edu/aic/collections/textiles/index.php

Art Institute of Chicago has an extensive textile collection.



WooHoo!




Last time I was there they had an incredible lace exhibit.



*bummer*

The textile galleries are currently closed for the duration of the  
construction of the new building.


*sigh*

But there's Other Stuff -- and A Gift Shop, Im sure!  I would have  
*loved* to have seen that!  Msybe it will be open by July.


Thanks!
susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations

2007-02-16 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Do you have a costume already?


Italian.  I play in the SCA 

Susan
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Susan Farmer
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[h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations

2007-02-15 Thread Susan B. Farmer


Speaking of Traveling ...

I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)

What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific  
recommendations?)


susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations

2007-02-15 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Andrew T Trembley [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


On Feb 15, 2007, at 4:14 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th)

What should I see there?  (yeah, the fabric district, got any   
specific recommendations?)


I've been out of the midwest for quite a few years, but...

Vogue fabrics in Evanston is pretty cool.

The Aurora Bleachery in Aurora used to have a fabulous remnant shop.
Cotton and poly-cotton solids sold by the pound.


There's a place in Georgia that sells stuff by the pound too.  I  
understand that's a great way to find stuff!


Thanks for the recommendation.  I was going to fly up, but I think  
Ill drive ...


Susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations

2007-02-15 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

I second the recommendation for Vogue Fabrics in Evanston. It's   
probably one of the best fabric stores in the country.
I also recommend that you consider visiting Bristol RenFaire which   
will be opening the weekend of July 78.


I just might be able to swing that.  I've never been to a Real  
Ren-Faire.  We had one local for like 2 years, but it was *very* tiny.  
 SCA events, and Gulf War, yes, but never a Ren Faire.


Thanks for the tip!

Susan
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Susan Farmer
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RE: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations

2007-02-15 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Of course, to fully appreciate the Ren Faire experience, you should go in
costume!


Of course!  Italian?

Susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] Dressing the Queen

2007-02-08 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


My backups have the HTML but not the pictures or their structure. The HTML
is in the Way Back Machine, but not the pictures.  I have all the pictures,
but they are scattered all over my computer.



Nods.  That was the way it was for me.  I was just so thankful that I  
didn't have to recreate all that HTML!


susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] looking for picture in color

2007-02-08 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED]:




Does anyone have a color photo from a painting at the Met?

http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=11viewmode=1item=63.43.1



*WOW*

I'd settle for a larger copy!  Have you emailed the museum?

susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] looking for picture in color

2007-02-08 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Dear Monica,
The link dont work. When i get there, there is no picture!



The periods cause the URL to break funny.  Try this

http://tinyurl.com/3yhyuk

I want to see that embroidery in color!

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-07 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Kelly Grant [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



What is it with Home Ec teachers???  I suffered a similar fate.  I had
to take Home Ec as I was female, shop was strictly for the boys.  I had
been cooking and sewing for years before hand.


LOL.  Good to know I wasn't alone!  rolls eyes!





Yeah.  I'd been sewing for several years when I took Home Ec.  My
teacher measured me and measured the pattern and said that I wore a  
  14.  I told her that, no, I wore a 10.  But she was the teacher,   
and  (of course) she prevailed.  I made the dress.   We could both   
fit in  it .




susan
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Susan Farmer
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[h-cost] Dressing the Queen

2007-02-07 Thread Susan B. Farmer
Saragrace, didn't you do a web page on Dressing the Queen? (i.e.,  
the layers and how everything is put together ...) Is it still up?


susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-06 Thread Susan B. Farmer




In a message dated 2/6/2007 4:00:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

What I  found confusing in the past was that the
measurements listed on the  back would suggest that I needed the
pattern to be about two sizes  bigger than my normal dress size, and
then I'd get the pattern cut  and it would turn out to be about two
sizes too  big.



Yeah.  I'd been sewing for several years when I took Home Ec.  My  
teacher measured me and measured the pattern and said that I wore a  
14.  I told her that, no, I wore a 10.  But she was the teacher, and  
(of course) she prevailed.  I made the dress.   We could both fit in  
it .


*sigh*

jerusha
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]

2007-02-06 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


On Tuesday 06 February 2007 11:24 pm, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
I always give them a month or two with the book and *then* request  
it.   Tomorrow, I'm going to put in a request for Thor  Ewing's  
Viking Clothing book.  Anybody got any comments on it?


Yes, I do.  It's an interesting read.  Wisely, Mr. Ewing doesn't purport to
have the gospel truth about what the Vikings wore:  instead, he reports the
finds and current theories that he is aware of.  He also is very forthcoming
with his clothing theories based on that evidence.  I don't agree with
everything he says, but a lot of it is plausible and all of it is
thought-provoking.  The only thing I regret about the book is that it doesn't
have more illustrations in it.


I had flipped through it once (and I still kick myself for not  
checking it out then!), and that was the one thing that I noticed.


thanks!

susan
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Re: [h-cost] Help finding online resource

2007-01-24 Thread Susan B. Farmer



On Wed, 24 Jan 2007, Tania Gruning wrote:


Hiya all.

I have tried to search the archive, but have been unable to locate   
this resource.


It is a online archive with out of print and antique books scanned   
in, that you can download in txt or pdf.


The books are all on womens concerns: Sewing, embroidery,   
householdmanagement, childcare and some other miscellanious things.


The archive is hosted by a large university, and the archive   
currently have 1000's of books starting from around 1750 and forward.


This isan't that big of an archive, but it's the only one that I know of.

http://inky.library.yale.edu/medwomen/whichbook.html

susan
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Re: [h-cost] Book Opinion

2007-01-21 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting RobinandKelly Dorman [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Someone mentioned receiving the following book as part of the h-costume
gift exchange:

Everlasting: The Flower in Fashion and Textiles (fabric, lace, and
beautiful garments)

It sounds as if it fits in perfectly with a topic I've been researching
for several years, basically the effect of the study of botany
primarily by women on both clothing and home fashion.


I must have missed the original post -- and I'm not finding the book  
at all.  Having said that, I don't know what aspect of clothing and  
home fashion you're looking for, but have you seen Thomasina Beck's  
books on Floral Embroideries?  The Embroiderers Garden, Gardens of  
Silver and Gold, and The Embroiderers Flowers are the 3 titles that  
come to mind off the top of my head.


Susan, botanist
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Re:Book Opinion

2007-01-21 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting RobinandKelly Dorman [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



The following quote is exemplifies what I'm interested in:



*wonderful quote snipped*



Susan Fenimore Cooper Rural Hours by a Lady 1854


Yeah.  I *want* that book.  She has a wonderful essay on Trillium in  
there.  :-)




Of course, flowers and vegetation have been used as inspiration in both
clothing and home textiles for eons, but there is a definate connection
between botany becoming an acceptable pursuit for women and the
blossoming of realistic floral forms as decoration during the
Victorian period.


What kind of science do you do, if I can be nosey?  If you want, we  
can go off-list ...  Did you know Beatrix Potter was a lichenologist?


susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] Help finding an article?

2007-01-17 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Susan B. Farmer wrote:

Quoting Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


I have it.  It's not a very good copy, but I do have it.  Do you still
need it?



PDF or paper?


Paper.



If ILL turns up a PDF that will make life simpler for everybody!  I  
don't want you to have to make another paper copy!


susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[h-cost] large post

2007-01-17 Thread Susan B. Farmer
I am *so* sorry.  I was in the process of fixing the to line and the  
damn thing went to the whole list.  You may smite me with limp noodles  
and everything else.  I was *so* hoping that the list stripped  
attachments.  *sigh*


*very* red-faced,
Susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] Help finding an article?

2007-01-16 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Genie Barrett [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Hello All,

I am trying to find a copy of Janet Arnold's copy of: Elizagethan and
Jacobean Smocks and Shirts that is in Waffen-und Kostumkunde Pt. 2
(1973) pp. 109-124.

Is there anyone out there that might have a copy?  I need it for a bit
of research I'm doing and, like usual, I am rather late in doing the
research so can't ILL it.



Don't have the journal, but my University generally gets stuff to me  
in about a week.  I know that different libraries are different --  
want me to try and get it for you?


susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] Help finding an article?

2007-01-16 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


I have it.  It's not a very good copy, but I do have it.  Do you still
need it?


PDF or paper?

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
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http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze - reprint

2007-01-05 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Mary [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

I was poking around on the Polistampa website, which I believe is   
the publisher of the Moda a Firenze book.  They have a notice on the  
 site that they will reprint the book and it will be available in   
April 2007.  If you pre-order it now, you get a 30% discount (off of  
 58 Euros).  However, if you order from them, I recall that getting   
payment to them is quite difficult.  I don't remember the details   
from when I tried to order this book from them when it first came   
out, but I finally gave up because I didn't have the time to jump   
through all the hoops it required!


http://www.polistampa.com/asp/sl.asp?id=3653



You have to have your bank make an electronic transfer of funds to their bank.

One more thing, when they were offering a 20% discount, shipping to  
the states was *almost* as much as the book.  With a 30% discount,  
shipping is certainly more.  I *did* have the receipt that they sent,  
but I'm not finding it at the moment ...


Found it!

original price 58.00 E
discount  -11.60 E
subtotal   46.40 E
shipping   33.60 E

Susan (who really hopes that they reprint it even if I already do have  
a copy!)

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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] RE: Schuette

2006-12-31 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


I found these but could not find an English edition. Were these what
you were talking about?

Beth

Gestickte Bildteppiche und Decken des Mittelalters by Schuette, Marie.
Leipzig: K.W. Hiersemann, 1927. First edition. Cloth (hardback).
Elephant Folio (51 cm). Illus. with 20 color and 42 monochrome
collotype reproductions. Embroidered Fancy Tapestries and coverlets of
the Middle Ages.


If that's the title, it's a completely different book (rather than an  
earlier edition) that the one that I know.  Its German title is Das  
Skiekerwerk (if I spelled that correctly) it's co-written by Marie  
Schuette and Ingrid Mueller Christensen -- and is titled A Pictorial  
History of Embroidery.


Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Schuette was RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery

2006-12-30 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Which is the 336pp., 11.5 x 8.5. (29 colour plates and 463 in b/w).
Praeger 1964 edition?


I think that's the one that she's referring to as the little one.   
It's the only one that I've ever heard of.


And if you can't bear to spend $300 for a copy, there's a copy on  
eBay for $500!  LOL!


susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] RE: question re: floss silks for embroidery

2006-12-30 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


You didn't see it in the library because I'd had to consult it recently and
it was up by the computer.  Now I have a new scanner I'm going to see if I
can scan it in without breaking the binding and have my very own CD/DVD
copy.  I would expect that it would also manage to duplicate itself a few
times and if I left those dups lying around they might take it into their
little bitty byte minds to wander Montanawards!



LOL.  I've got a lot of the plates scanned, but not nearly all of them!

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Questions re: Moda a Firenze

2006-12-27 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting A. Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Based on everyone's recommendations, I went ahead and put in a reserve
from an Italian company called Maremagnum who has to check with
their sources - I was told to expect a reply in 3 weeks. Is this the
Italian company you ordered out of, Susan?


No.  It was just place an order -- it was a different company.   
Somebody else on one of the other lists that I'm on ordered from them.  
 It's not been longer than 2 weeks ago, though.




I was under the impression that Shramansky was sold out permanently;
if this is not the case I may go ahead and put in a request with them
as well.



*somebody* (you know, *them*) said that both Michael Shramansky and  
David Brown/Oxbow were talking to the museum about a second printing.


susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Questions re: Moda a Firenze

2006-12-26 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting A. Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


I've lucked into some Christmas gift money and am looking to
(finally!) purchase this book. However, given the hefty price tag, I'd
like to get some reviews (regrettably, the local textile library
doesn't have a copy). Some of my questions:

What are its strengths? Weaknesses?

Are the writers credible? Is the book well researched? What is the
quality/quantity of photographs? Any construction detail?

Thanks in advance!



If you want to do Italian Ren, then you **NEED** this book.  However,  
the book is out of print -- I've heard rumors that it *may* be  
reprinted.  The only place that I know of right now that has it for  
sale is Poison Pen Press, and last time I checked, they wanted 190.00  
for it.  Evidently, I got one of the last copies that Michael  
Shramansky had!

http://www.poisonpenpress.com/costume.html
you'll have to scroll for it.

There are more gorgeous paintings in this book that I had *never* seen  
anywhere else before.  It's more like QEWU than PoF -- there aren't  
any patterns, but ...


Construction details?  In the wardrobe inventories, amounts of fabric  
are given.  Close ups of paintings of various details (sleeves,  
partlets, etc) are provided and discussed.  The text is parallel  
Italian/English.


Wonderful book.

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Christmas gift exchange

2006-12-25 Thread Susan B. Farmer


I got a lovely copper box with lucite/mother or pearl that had some  
pretty silk flosses (just the right colors!) and a mother-of-pearl  
floss winder!


Thanks!

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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[h-cost] pictures -- Six Wives (Keith Michell)

2006-12-22 Thread Susan B. Farmer
Some time back, somebody webbed a bunch of very nice screen shots form  
Elizabeth R (and I think it was on this list ... -- Kimiko, was that  
you?).  Are there any similar shots anywhere of the Wives from the  
*first* BBC series on Henry VIII with Keith Michell?


Thanks,
Susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] pictures -- Six Wives (Keith Michell)

2006-12-22 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]:




Not screen shots , but I have some of the official publicity shots from
Six Wives on my fashion plate site.
http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c461806.html

I worked on refurbishing some of these costumes when they were on
display at Hampton Court, so I may be able to answer some questions -
it was a long time ago though, and I don't have any notes.



Thanks!  That will serve to whet my desire for a bit.  I've got to get  
that on DVD.  It's been *far* too long since I saw it!


Susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!

2006-12-13 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Carolyn Kayta Barrows [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Do you think she is pregnant?
Seems a little low for pregnancy.


I'd say she wasn't.


Since it might be useful to compare to a pregnant woman .
Here's a painting that's just a tad earlier where Margharite *is* pregnant
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Paintings/gonzalez_MargheritaAustria.jpg

jerusha
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Mode di Firenzie

2006-12-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

*snip*


At 12:28 AM 12/9/2006, you wrote:

Is there any way that Oxbow or David Brown could get hold of  Moda a

Firenze

1540-1580 from the Museum that publishes it?


Hi Wanda,

The publisher tells us that the book is out of print! So, buy one if
you get the chance (whatever the cost!). Yikes!



*ACK* My copy was supposed to have been here early in November and  
I've not seen hide nor hare of it yet.  :-(  Maybe there will be  
enough demand that they'll reprint it.


*whimper*

I want my book!

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] question about a book

2006-12-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


What is the year of the newer edition (mine is 1991 or 1992 I think)


I think that's the 2nd edition.  I just lucked onto one for $10.00 --  
the 3rd ed is 2004 or 2005 (IIRC)


susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] Costume history text

2006-12-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Kelly Grant [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Can you send out the titles and ISBN numbers for these books?  I teach
as well, and could really use a good text, sounds like this would be
very much in keeping with how I teach costume history...the what/why
sort of thing.


How about this .

http://www.amazon.com/Costume-History-Style-Douglas-Russell/dp/0131812149
http://www.amazon.com/Survey-Historic-Costume-History-Western/dp/1563673452

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] question about a book

2006-12-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


*snip*



Susan, what are you doing at Uof T?



Finishing up a PhD in Botany.

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] question about a book

2006-12-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Susan,

Oh, well.  I remember that you have been on the list a long time. Good
luck with your job hunting.


Thanks!

Susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] construction ?

2006-12-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Anyone have an idea as to how the blue on the plastron is constructed?
Is it a section on material that has a wee bit of gather in the center and
clipped on the sides?
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard2.htm



You know it's *really* late when you look at that painting and the  
*first* thought that goes through your brain is, Oh, look.  She's  
wearing a Mickey Mouse Watch .


*blink*

going to bed now.

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII

2006-12-06 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


They have told me that the price has not been set yet.  Hopefully, they
will realize that there is quite a market if the price is reasonable.


One can hope that they'll examine the sales of the Tudor Tailor .

susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII

2006-12-06 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


On Wednesday 06 December 2006 11:15 am, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

Quoting Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
 They have told me that the price has not been set yet.  Hopefully, they
 will realize that there is quite a market if the price is reasonable.

One can hope that they'll examine the sales of the Tudor Tailor .


I hope they *don't*--if they do they may consider raising the price,  :-(


That would be insane!  They should look at the sales and see how well  
something like that does at a reasonable price!


Susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII

2006-12-05 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


For those awaiting (such as I am) Dress at the Court of King Henry
VIII, the publisher has informed me that the release date has been
delayed to May 2007.


Do you have any idea about how much it's going to cost?

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???

2006-11-24 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


One of them was already brought forth and shot down which was the Donor in
the birth of Mary fresco. the red and white outfit Though I still think the
gold thingies are more of a tassel then a dag.
The other one I think I did not save the url because I think it was a Salome
character and I was not interested in the period at the time. It may have
been dags and not gores. So my apologies for not being able to produce the
picture to help in this matter. I usually save things for myself as I know
that I can not teach worth anything and my organizational skills only make
sense to me.
De


That's ok.  I've seen a couple too -- but not the birth of Mary fresco  
that's been under discussion.  One of this *is* a piece of a mural  
(and I doubt if I could find it now if I tried!) but I can't tell if  
the woman's dress has contrasting gores up the side, or if it's a  
giorna (? -- you know the overdress like you see in Ghirlandaio's  
paintings) that's belted around the body.  The ladies are in the  
background and IIRC they're seated.


Thanks!
Susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???

2006-11-22 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Catching up on old email


From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]



*snip*


I have seen at least two Italian dresses that look as if they have
different colored gores from the rest of the dress but not in the style that
is on the Chimera site.


Can you point me in the direction of those Italian Gowns?

Thanks,
Susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???

2006-11-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Branwyn Maura [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

Gores in various configurations were used to widen skirts from the   
early middle ages on (it's an early step in the evolution of   
tailoring), but the use of a contrast gore for stylish effect is not  
 really documentable for this period (I think there is some use of   
this technique in the 19th century, but I'm not sure).


It looks really nifty, however. Makes me wish it *was* documentable...



Oh, yeah.  I'm with you on this one.  I saw a nice gown once with a  
reversable brocade done like this -- it was very nice.


susan
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Susan Farmer
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Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???

2006-11-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


How much is 350 pounds?


$700 USD -- approximately

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???

2006-11-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


I should go into business.  Wonder how many this company sells at those
prices.


Who Knows!  But I could sure sell them a lot cheaper than that!

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Blanche Payne

2006-11-01 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Hi, sorry about this question, but i just wanted to know if this is the
book that has pattern cuts in it?
Blanche Paynes A History of Costume?
http://tinyurl.com/yymkv5
Many thanks



Unless somebody beats me to it, I'll check when I get home, Bjarne.   
I've got a copy that does have the patterns in it.


susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?

2006-10-11 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


First, I can't read a word of this site.

www.nb.no/.../html/italienske_tresnitt.html


But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing. Check
out the pics near the end of women with pipes in their mouths and
spinning in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's a stick with fire
coming out of it.



Dawn, that URL doesn't seem to sork for me.  It redirects to this
http://www.nb.no/.../html/index.php
which has no images on it.  Were you by any chance caught in a frame?

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?

2006-10-11 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Dawn wrote:

But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing.   
Check out the pics near the end of women with pipes in their mouths  
 and spinning in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's a stick   
with fire coming out of it.


Let me try that again. It mangled the link.

http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/html/italienske_tresnitt.html



*NEAT*  Those are just too cool.

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] Bad historical costume movies

2006-09-24 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



In a message dated 9/24/2006 8:56:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The  Conqueror, with John Wayne? (


Said conqueror is Genghis Khan, right?



Wasn't there one about The Vikings and Genghis Kahn?

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] iridescent fabric/weaving ( mind over matter)

2006-09-14 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


On 9/14/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I had one of those neat synchronicity moments recently: I thought to myself,
Huh! I bet you could make an iridescent with more than just 2 colors.  Why
don't they? and the next day, I picked up a fabric order that included some
iridescent silk taffeta, which to my surprised delight was a _3_ color
iridescent. It looked taupe, but was actually pink and green weft on black
warp. Very cool!


I remember a gown in a 1994-5 Viennese exhibit (Modeschauraum des
Historischen Museums der Stadt Wein) that was 3 color shot silk moire
taffeta.  This 1850 gown appears as old rose in color.  It was
actually grey  pink crossed by soft blue. The gown is reprinted in
the booklet/catalog is Vom Empire zur Belle Epoque, Wiener Damenmode
(1805-1910), but you cant tell how delightful the result truly is.


I have a similar fabric that I picked up at Hancocks of all places,  
except it's not really irridescent.  It's a taffeta-ish weave (I can  
post a picture, but I don't know that you could tell), but it's pink  
on one side and lavender on the other!


susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Basic medieval costume sources

2006-09-12 Thread Susan B. Farmer


Depending on what you have in mind, this just might fit the bill
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5207.htm?tab=costumespage=1

It has patterns for the veil and *drat* I've lost the word!  I'm only  
coming up with barbette.  *sigh*  Brain Fade is an ugly thing.


susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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[h-cost] fabric pattern/designs

2006-09-02 Thread Susan B. Farmer

When did Paisley begin to be seen in western European textiles?

thanks,
susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] fabric pattern/designs

2006-09-02 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



In a message dated 9/2/2006 9:08:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

When did  Paisley begin to be seen in western European  textiles?




Some time in the early 1800s, when European weavers began making imitation
cashmere shawls--among the first to do so were in Paisley, Scotland,  
 hence the

name.  One of the factoids I enjoy telling people when I give talks on  early
19th century costume.


Really.  I had it in my mind that it came from India/Persia (or at  
least *somewhere* in that neck of the woods) and that it was the  
pattern produced by block printing the side of the hand .


Interesting tidbit nonetheless.  Wonder where I got my erroneous info from?

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21

2006-08-27 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting JAMES OGILVIE [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


 It always
seemed to me that the larger the size you were using, the longer they made
the damned things.  My ItalianRen gown had a skirt more than 18 longer than
necessary.

The woman who designed these patterns is quite tall so they are   
designed for her idea of a normal body.




Who designed the MM patterns, do we know?

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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Re: [h-cost] illustrator vs fashion historian

2006-08-16 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



After looking at how some folks today build their 'historical' 
costumes, I expect to see 3pc suits made out of denim,


My husband still has a 3-piece suit made out of denim ...  My son wears
it now . (but not with a grunge flannel shirt ...)

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Some old linen

2006-08-15 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



I'm clearing things out, and came across an old white linen tablecloth and
four napkins.


What size is the tablecloth?

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Some old linen

2006-08-15 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Adele de Maisieres [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Susan Farmer wrote:


*isgh*

braif fart

Isn't that that ghastly movie with Mel Gibson?



ROTFLOLWTOOME!

boy, when I can't type, I *really* can't type can I?

*blush*

susan
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Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Men' Flemish Garb

2006-08-14 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


2) Are sleeve seams under the arm?  That's the way they appear to me.  Or
down the back?


It's a bit hard to say for sure. If you look at the peasants by Hans Sebald
Beham of the similar timeframe, most almost certainly have seams going up
under the arm, then in some other woodcuts of a similar subject also by
Beham show a much earlier cut in the shoulders and seams down the back of
the arm.
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/P_d02_mm/full/61_41_3.jpg
seam up the back of the arm.


Cool pictures.  I assume that these are from the same work.  Do you
have a URL for that?  I tried backing through the image URL but it
didn't work, and I don't have a clue what keywords to search for!

Thanks,
susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Men' Flemish Garb

2006-08-14 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


 http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/P_d02_mm/full/61_41_3.jpg



Cool pictures.  I assume that these are from the same work.  Do you
have a URL for that?  I tried backing through the image URL but it
didn't work, and I don't have a clue what keywords to search for!


Unfortunately LACMA has super long URLs and those tinyurl things only last
for so long;) I was going to write a how to to get to all the information
pages but I figured if anyone was curious they would ask;)

http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/
Then click search then type in Beham (or Beham peasant should get those
specific woodcuts.)


Thanks!  That's exactly what I wanted to know!

susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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[h-cost] Humor -- natural fibers

2006-08-13 Thread Susan B. Farmer
Sorry for the cross-post, but this was just too funny!

http://www.foxtrot.com/

If you're looking at this on a day other than Sunday, August 13, 2006 --
you want to see the comic for that particular day.

susan/ jerusha
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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