Re: [h-cost] coutil

2011-08-19 Thread cahuff

Thank you for all of your suggestions and offers of help!
No I've not looked at the Italian sources and the definitions of it as a 
filled ticking are what I had found, or incomplete quotes that now that 
I've seen the complete ones, refer to the ticking...
And a lot of early century studies did not distinguish between hemp and 
linen...

Alternate spellings are wonderful!
Please keep the suggestions coming as you have time.
I'll keep digging and if I find anything new, will report here.
Again THANKS!
Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Coutil origins

2011-08-18 Thread cahuff

HI
I can trace coutil as a French word for fabric back to 16mumble, but I 
can't trace what it was made of (hemp, linen, cotton?) then nor if it 
was a plain 4 harness twill or a three harness twill or a herringbone. 
The herringbone I can trace back to 18mumble.

Help!
And suggestions or info would be a great help.
THANKS!
Ta
Carol
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Re: [h-cost] sewing machine/buttonholer

2008-11-10 Thread cahuff

At 10:55 AM -0700 11/10/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I have an additional question, if one were to purchase a machine just
to do buttonholes, what machine would you reccomend?


Um an older Singer with the attachment. Makes the best button holes. 
I got a  Singer 401 (slant needle) for $40 and the slant needle 
buttonholer for $5. The 401 has all the fancy stitches with the cams 
and some built in. Its a tank and sews like a dream.


My latest was an Elna Supermatic that is a low shank machine so it 
can take the Singer buttonholer. Also works like a Swiss watch, and 
is very portable. Has a bazzillion fancy stitches with the cams.


If you want a good affordable machine, look for an older all metal 
one. Name brand or Japanese copy.


Ta
Carol, who has also take a sewing machine to a convention and used it...G
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Re: [h-cost] JA POF 4

2008-11-07 Thread cahuff

IT's here!! And it is wonderful!!
Now to have a moment or 12 to sit down and read it slooowly from 
cover to cover!!!

I think this old 1st cent Celt may be wandering up the time stream...
Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] J Arnold Vol 4 Happy Dance!

2008-10-29 Thread cahuff

Wahooo!
Amazon just charged me for Vol 4. It should be inn the mails today G
And the best part, the pound is down so it only cost $35 American G
Happy Happy happy
TA
Carol--now to await the mails...
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[h-cost] MCT 4

2008-05-13 Thread cahuff
It's hre
Just diving in--thank you Robin and everyone else!
The Russian flax industry is fascinating.
Pity I have to go out and do chores G But it's a great reward for 
finishing them up.
Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: Question for embroiderers

2008-02-06 Thread cahuff

Fireside carries it...
http://www.firesidestitchery.com
along with many other silks...and there is a good Indian restaurant 
around the corner...plus a good Vet specialty practice...G
Of course if you are going to the Vet's, there is no money for 
Fireside, but it's fun to shop anyhow.

Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] CC 2009 whine...

2007-11-25 Thread cahuff
So I went to Darkover Grand Council (had a great time! Saw people, 
got cool books...)

and got the flyer for CC in 2009...in Baltimore!! Yah!!!
on the first weekend in May WAHH!!
That is Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival weekend.
So once again I'll be missing CC and it's right in my backyard grumph
Please could those in charge look and see what might just conflict 
the next time they plan an event. Please?

Ta
Carol, Fri, getting ready, Mon not mobile before the whole shebang ends :-(
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RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wish list

2007-11-13 Thread cahuff

Spinning technology!
Spindle types and weights
timeline of wheel types and introduction...
detailed drawings!
and details on types of yarns-
wpi, fiber type, plies etc etc
And while we are blue skying it...
fiber types, timeline of introduction
and fiber prep tools and devices
What dyes where used
a good color chart of the dyes...

And have it be an affordable book G

Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: embroidery machine

2007-11-09 Thread cahuff

At 7:50 AM -0700 11/9/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  In a message dated 11/9/2007 3:35:23 AM Eastern Standard Time,

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 After  looking at s many I'm confused (not that it takes much 
to do that)
 and  can't make up my mind. My question is this  in your opinion 
which one do

  you feel is best and why you feel this way?


I have 2 POEMs also known as Husygrams. They are embroidery only 
heads--I have wonderful sewing machines, solid metal, so just needed 
the embroidery part. It talks to the computer with a simple cable, 
designs are handled on the computer, no cards that can go bad and 
over time become hard to find. The digitizing program is not 
automatic, but is very powerful. The stitches are very nice, and 
there are 2nd party digitizing/sewing out programs available.
Best part? I got my 2nd machine for $100 with extras. It is not in 
production, but there are a number out there...
They are good sturdy home use machines that can handle occasional 
large runs of patches/t shirts/whatever for your favorite club or the 
occasional very large embroidery project.
If you are looking to do commercial work, there are better machines 
out there than the various home machines...and the $$$ reflect that 
G

Ta
Carol
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread cahuff
Well I don't own one, yet...but my sewing table has a pair of stays 
almost done, Cloth piled up to make 17th/18th cent skirts and the 
muslin staring at me to do the mock ups for a set of 17th men's 
breeches/pants/whatever G

Once the stay's are done it's a toss up as to what gets cut out next...
Ta
Carol--still dithering over which dressmaker's dummy to get...being a 
weird, large inbetween shape, and the duct tape one has melted...

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[h-cost] men's breeches 1st half of the 17th cent....

2007-09-22 Thread cahuff

Hi
How 'poofy' would a tradesman's breeches be in the 1st half of the 
17th cent in England?
Are the ones in The Cut of Men's Clothing a good rep for one of the 
middling sort?

Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: linens and dyes...

2007-08-29 Thread cahuff

At 2:40 PM -0600 8/29/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The blue--brown with bleach issue has me wondering if your blue is actually
indigo, which (I believe, unless I have things backwards) turns 
yellow in basic

solutions and blue again in acids.  That might also explain why it's so very
hard to remove.  Try dipping your brown swatch in vinegar to return 
it to blue?

 If it works, you know you've got indigo (or a synthetic version of the same
chemical) and could do research from there.


HUH
Um could someone clarify this??? I was under the impression that once 
indigo had been reduced, deposited on the cloth and aired it was darn 
near permanent...there are many issues with color changing in 
discharge dyeing (applying bleach of some form to dyed cloth), but 
that is not my area of interest G at this time. Perhaps someone 
more skilled could speak up??

Ta
Carol--so many pathways, so little time!
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[h-cost] Walmart cloth...good news/bad news...

2007-08-21 Thread cahuff

At 10:39 AM -0600 8/21/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Ooh, thanks Denise. THAT was my exciting costume news that I forgot to
share!

I was in our Norfolk, Va. Walmart last week, and also noticed that the
$1.00 bolt table was restocked. I found my favorite sales lady and she
said that indeed, they were keeping their fabric department and were
replacing the racks that had been removed! YIPPPE! 
She said that everything was planned to go back to the way it used to

be.

So, I guess Walmart paid attention to the fact that they don't need to
be upscale- that is not their target market. I'm not sure what is
going on with the other service oriented departments that were under the
knife, such as paint, automotive and fish. Fish, now that's one section
I'd be very happy to see out of our Walmart. It's so bad I'm surprised
PETA hasn't found out about it!

::Linda::


Well the Walmart near I95 in Belair MD had their 75% off sale, 
cleared the store of cloth very quickly and now has stupid Halloween 
pumpkins in the rack space... the Aberdeen one still has cloth for 
now. I guess it may be store by store decision. Silly to hammer the 
Belair one as they always sold a ton of quilting stuff and had a 
better selection than the others. But if the others don't stock as 
well, the Corporate can point fingers and claim it to be a loss...
Oh and they seem to be keeping the fish section, but it a well tended 
one and the fish seem healthy.

SIGH
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: thread holders....

2007-04-24 Thread cahuff

At 8:55 AM -0600 4/24/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I have found flat winders a pain to use, so instead I
found some spools that are still modern shaped but
made out of wood, and wound the thread on those. I
also found some old wooden spools among my
grandmothers sewing stuff! You can sand off any logo
or printing on the ends and you're good to go. They're
easy to use (once you get passed the tedium of
rewinding thread on them) and don't draw attention to
themselves, which is really the point.


If you jam the spool onto a bobbin winder, life becomes much easier...
And you can get the wooden/horn/MOP flat holders that can fit into a 
clamp fringe twister...
Maybe not the 'period' way to load up, but do it at home and nones 
the wiser G

Ta
Carol --string handling is turning into my lifes work G



Brava, by the way, to you for recognizing this as a
problem and wanting to do something about it. I've
seen too many white plastic spools at Faire and gotten
too many blank stares when I suggested that they
should at least be concealed when in use.

MaggiRos

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[h-cost] Re: wooden spools

2007-04-24 Thread cahuff

At 8:55 AM -0600 4/24/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I would think that you could use dowels or a smooth piece of branch, minus
the bark if you can't find the old wooden spools.

Kate


Google wooden spools. The woodworking supply folks sell various sizes 
by the gross...they are used in crafting...

Ta
Carol, just enabling G
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[h-cost] Re: sewing machine cabinet...

2007-04-21 Thread cahuff

At 7:09 AM -0600 4/21/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I am thinking of getting a second sewing machine table, to put a modern

machine on.  I really love the antique treadle tables with an iron base,
and, the great part, a big hinged fold-out leaf on the left side on which
you can support long skirts while sewing them. They are really attractive
and useful pieces of furniture.  OK, the drawers aren't very big; but I
don't really expect sewing machine table drawers to do much more than hold
a few things like bobbins and scissors.  I have other furniture for real

 storage.


And you can pop a modern longer foot print machine in if you take the 
metal spring lift thingie off of the right side of the opening---then 
the machine sits level...of course my loverly RadioMatic  ZigZag 
(it's a Japan Clone of the shorter body) just popped in, no mods. 
needed G AND it could also be a treadle--love to shock my 'latest 
bestest computer controlled' machine friends when they come over. And 
my Amish friends want me to score them another G
There are a fair number of the treadle bases out on the West Coast. 
Check out Junke Shoppes and Craigslist and the FreeCycle folks.

Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: Walmart Fabric Dept...

2007-04-07 Thread cahuff

At 7:55 PM -0600 4/6/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Walmart carries garment quality fabric? I suppose it does depend 
on location. The Walmart here (NW WA) has a somewhat diverse craft 
department, carries a limited selection of patterns and I haven't 
seen any fabric there that I would want to make clothing from unless 
it was a one time use/halloween costume type thing. It seems to 
cater to quilters and home crafters. However, my MIL used to be the 
fabric/craft department manager for a Walmart in Utah and she says 
they sold a lot of dress fabric. I can't imagine they would 
eliminate the fabric in a location that had decent sales.
  
  Annette T


Here in NE MD, the Walmart *used* to have a fab fabric department, no 
silks, but lotsa cottons and polys (the Amish around here use lots of 
plain colored poly for wear). They sold *tons*. If you saw a bit of 
cloth you liked, you boughtit now, because it would be gone on the 
next visit.
Now they are not getting much delivered in so sales are down and the 
Dept will be gone with the next store remuddle :-(
Darn shame as I (and many others!) scored some amazing close to 
accurate 18th  19th cent indigo resist prints along with some great 
madder prints and  for a while some good feed cloth repros.

Alas all gone with the stupid corp redesign.
Ta
Carol--Totally bummed at the Hancocks closing...Soon JoAnns will be 
the only player left (and some quilt $tores) unless I do a Road 
Trip...

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[h-cost] Re: translation..

2007-03-28 Thread cahuff

At 7:46 AM -0600 3/28/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up
short, or would it make sense to you?

...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric.

...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric.

Other suggestions welcome. I don't think texture will work in context,
because that turns out to be one of many factors in the handle.


Hand is acceptable, USA usage...
ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: paillets...

2007-03-05 Thread cahuff

At 12:00 PM -0700 3/4/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Does anybody know of a place where i can buy some silver leaf palliettes.
Shaped like leafs?
They dont have to be excactly like these i have here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm
And it doesnt matter if they are metal or plastic, when it comes to rare
things, you cant afford to be crittical.

Bjarne


I just was at a friends house and she showed me this *AWESOME* press. 
It did metal flashing and soda can metal the same as paper. There are 
leaf dies for it was well as flower dies and a bunch of terribly cute 
ones... It's called a Wizzard(sp) and is all the rage amongst the 
stamping/journaling/scrap booking set...


And the results are just what you are looking for!

Ta
Carol--Darn, new shelves will be full soon G
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[h-cost] Costume in Film...at Winterthur

2006-10-03 Thread cahuff

At 7:51 AM -0700 10/3/06, Patty Dennis wrote:

Fashion in Film: Period Costumes for the Screen

WHAT: The exhibition features 35 costumes created for film 
adaptations of classic novels and movies set from the 16th to 
mid-20th century. Costumes were worn by Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth 
Paltrow, Meryl Streep, Madonna, Colin Firth and Ralph Fiennes.


WHERE: Winterthur, Del. 52, six miles northwest of Wilmington

WHEN: 10 am - 5 pm Tuesday-Sunday through Jan. 7, 2007. Museum is 
closed on Mondays.


COST: The exhibition is included with admission. $20; students and 
seniors $18; ages 2 to 11 $10.


ALSO: At 3 pm November 4 in Winterthur's Visitor Center's Copeland 
Lecture Hall, a panel will discuss feature film costume design. The 
event, Fashion in Film: A Professional Perspective, sponsored by 
Greater Philadelphia Filmmakers, will feature an audience 
participation QA session with John Bright, an Academy Award-winning 
costume designer who is founder and managing director of Cosprop. 
The cost is $50; Winterthur members and Film Office Listers $35; 
students with ID $25. Preregistration is recommended. Call 
(800)448-3883 to register.


INFORMATION: (800) 448-3883 or http://www.winterthur.org/www.winterthur.org

Some of the costumes featured are Gwyneth Paltrow's wedding gown 
from Emma, the costume ball gown (with wings) from Ever After, 
Kate Winslet's wedding gown from Sense and Sensibility, Swoosie 
Kurtz's gown from Dangerous Liaisons, one of Colin Firth's 
costumes from Pride and Prejudice, a gown worn by Liz Taylor in 
Young Toscanini, Julie Christie's wedding gown from Hamlet.


All the costumes are authentic from the skin out since that's 
something John Bright is known for.

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[h-cost] Re:Cotehardie pattern...

2006-08-28 Thread cahuff

At 12:02 PM -0600 8/28/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

front) to make it luxurious and swirly. If you have to piece fabric for one
or more gores, you will feel even more medieval!

The gown should be fairly tight, just loose enough to slip over your head
with a little difficulty. You can sew buttons up the front to mimic a
fancier cotehardie.

The fit depends on your skill, of course, but I have found that the look is
very real -- something about all those geometric pieces. It is easy and
even kind of fun to take a bunch of rectangles and make a fitted dress!


Dang Woman--you've been hiding in my sewing room! And here it would 
be soo much easier with another set of hands!  VBEG
 (I swiped my ideas from 'Cut my Cote' and the Hartely book back in 
the mid 70's...when I was younger and could actually reach my entire 
back seam myself, I did several skin tight fitted GFD...now they 
just aren't as fitted)

Ta
Carol-- who thinks cutting and fitting by rectangles is sooo spiffy 
*and* efficient! And as a weaver it's a 'Good Thang'

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[h-cost] Re: POTC dress...Now M MaCain's 18th cent patterns

2006-07-26 Thread cahuff

At 9:30 AM -0600 7/26/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Awaiting Martha McCain's rumoured 18th patterns for Simplicity.

Cindy Abel


Last I heard they *might* be out in the Spring 2007? Anyone else?
Ta
Carol--also awaiting the 18th cent line...
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[h-cost] Re: Flat Cap--when did they fall out of fashion?

2006-07-22 Thread cahuff

Hi
So just when did the Flat Cap cease to be worn? In England? The 
Americas? I'm looking for an end date range...

Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Flat caps...

2006-07-18 Thread cahuff

HI
Not to interrupt the subject line discussion or anything VVBEG but 
how late were the 'flat caps' (ones that look like a short stack) 
worn? In England? In the American Colonies? I've seen a ref on the 
web that suggests they lingered in London  long enough to become a 
slang ID for Londoners, but no dates no back up refs.

Thanks
Carol --something new on the needles!
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[h-cost] Re: What to do???

2006-07-05 Thread cahuff

At 3:59 PM -0600 7/5/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore,

and when your costumes gets bored to look at?
When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two?

 What is left then?


Try to do other non related activities...even before getting burned 
out. Seen to many get in waaay to deep and then just up and 
vanish. Balance and moderation can be a good thing, of course having 
t many diff hobbies may be just as badVBEG


Or buy an old house/garden. That will keep you humble and looking 
forward to a break from 
plaster/paint/weeding/digging/grouting/etc/etc!


Ta
Carol, just in from huge 4 day dog event to needing to do mowing and sewing!
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[h-cost] Re: old fabric and trim stores

2006-06-20 Thread cahuff

At 6:28 PM -0600 6/20/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Better yet, I remember when they took up seven floors of an ancient
building on G Street, with stuff piled everywhere. If you were willing to
dig, you could find old bolts of wonderful stuff with old wonderful prices
on them, which clearly had not been touched for years.

--Robin


And Joy Trims was still around...SIGH I still have a few leftovers 
from the last big buy from them.
And yes the old G Street was well worth the trip. I know it's heresy 
but the new ones are just not as wonderful as the old one with the 
rickety elevator and the great piles of wonderful stuffs...
And Minnesota Fabrics had real remnants and Dannaman's in Newark had 
great bolts of Buddhist Orange silk for $1 a yard...which overdyed so 
well as well as other great ends.


SIGH a moment of silence

Carol
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[h-cost] Re: loooong embroidery...

2006-06-12 Thread cahuff

At 7:17 AM -0600 6/12/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Could you possibly refit a beading loom to stretch
your ribbon on?  I have seen beadwork ribbons that
were quite long and were rolled as they were worked
on.
Have you looked at the Harrisville 'Friendly Loom' (I think that's 
what it's called)? It has a front and back beam and uses a removable 
rigid heddleThey are strong and hold up well to a number of non 
weaving uses...

You could cushion the finished work with quilt batting.
The water soluble stuff is from a number of sources--store in a zip 
lock bag G--Solvy is a brand JoAnn's carries or talk to a machine 
embroidery person.

Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re:colored cotton...

2006-06-02 Thread cahuff

At 2:03 PM -0600 6/2/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This is a direct quote from the back page of Threads magazine (July 
2006 number 125), which shows a picture of colored cotton.
I wasn't aware that you could grow colored cotton and thought I 
would share this.




This somehow sounds strange to me, does anyone here know the validity of it?


Yup it's true. My Dad worked for the USDA as the Small Grains 
germplasm collector (he got to parts of the Middle East and the USSR 
to harvest small grains that are now bombed out...and brought back 
Cool Stuff) and one of his best buds was the Cotton Guy--who 
maintained an 'orchard' of cotton plants--in a wild range of colors 
that he collected worldwide. Bet you could write the USDA and ask 
about the Cotton Germplasm Bank.


Cotton Collection (COT)
USDA, ARS
Crop Germplasm Research, 2765 FB Road
College Station, Texas 77845
Phone: (979) 260-9209
FAX: 979-260-9333
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I have a bit of purple cotton that I just got around here somewhere 
to spin up...
I've heard rumors of blue that is not recycled denim, but not located 
any yet...


Oh and Thanks! Now I am forced, forced I tell ya back to a book store 
to buy Threads--The new dinosaur pop up book is also awaiting me G


Obligatory costume content:
Having fits over cutting into the mass of wonderful fine linen for 
undies. Am dealing by measuring 4 times, checking the maths, and then 
slowly cutting the first shirt out...Sunday.
And the #^$#%#@ stockings need some frogging--I think I lost some 
calf girth as the Season kicks in and the haul the muck/walk the dogs 
up and down the 200 yard track 4 times an event/pull weeds weight 
control program starts up again! But this time its only --sob-- about 
30 rows out of the 200. And then the decreases go really fast. So yes 
this is the 4th attempt at the second, they *will* match pair of 
fitted stockings. Believe me there will be much Joy when I get to the 
feet!


Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: Re: Current projects

2006-05-22 Thread cahuff

Hi
I too have this bundle of 25 yds of linen staring at me...I'm 
starting small with an 18th cent cap while carefully figguring and 
measuring cuts for the underclothes--2 sets per weekend x 2 people x 
3-4 Eras...
Hey at least I'll be savin on gas by being home and sewing like a mad 
monkey! And then the stays construction resumes...
Oh and this is also a cat free household--large Psittacines = cats, 
yum! (and that is the evil Cockatoo talking!) and then there are the 
whippets.

Ta
Carol, hey do the neighbors strays that live in the barn count? They 
bring new meaning to the term wild cat!

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[h-cost] Re: Book wish list: weavers pattern books up to 1800...

2006-04-30 Thread cahuff

Hi
While we are wishing...I've got the Ars Textrina coming, have most of 
the local SE PA ones, have Bress's book (worth every penny if 
coverlets and such are your hearts desire!).

SO what else is out there?
Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: MCT Amazon...

2006-04-26 Thread cahuff

At 12:07 PM -0600 4/26/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

On Tue, 25 Apr 2006, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote:


 I got mine today!  Looks good!  Thanks, Kathy


And, hurrah, mine just arrived!

--Robin


And if you pre-ordered from Amazon and haven't been charged for it 
yet--rattle their tree. You may be over looked otherwise...mine 
wouldn't have shipped without a nudge...

Ta
Carol--it should be here tomorrow! Yeah!
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[h-cost] Re: Amazon...

2006-04-26 Thread cahuff

At 7:05 PM -0600 4/26/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Umm, how do you nudge Amazon.com?  I just cancelled my pre-order with
Amazon.uk to save on shipping fees and preordered from Amazon.com.
Amazon.com gives a ship date of the end of June. Although the pub date
is given as April 1st, neither Amazon has copies of book available,
understandable to give small publishers a chance to sell direct first.
Wander thru the help pages till you get the phone screen. They called 
me back within seconds...I talked to real person who was *very* nice!

Ta
Carol
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Re: [h-cost] proportions for plus sizes (was yardage required)

2006-04-19 Thread cahuff

HI
So in the 15th, 16th, 17th century, how did the tailors handle larger 
sizes? Did the skirts get wider? Or did they keep the same bottom 
edge circumference from size to size? (I know this is phased badly, 
hopefully the meaning struggles thru!)

Thanks
Carol--befuddled sorta by the later period fashions...
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[h-cost] Re: Simplicity 4219

2006-03-20 Thread cahuff

At 9:58 AM -0700 3/20/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 This is a new pattern for costume shirts. I was wondering if anyone

can identify view A (lower right corner with the book) and tell me
what time period it's supposed to be from:


 http://www.simplicity.com/assets/4219/4219.jpg


Middle Romance G
Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] You Bad Bad Bad people! VBEG

2006-03-19 Thread cahuff

At 12:02 PM -0700 3/19/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I don't think there is any problem. In my case, as I said, the book is
not even late. My voucher says it will be mailed when the First Editions
come in (expected by the end of March). Given processing and mailing
time, I wouldn't be concerned until the end of May comes along and I
haven't heard anything.

Not worried, just impatient for what looks like a wonderful resource! ;)


Yeah sure, remind me about this book, while I have a few pennies. 
Sure and it's in the pre-order window. WEG And soon to be in my 
house G
S how long till the next one comes out??? (Tapping one's foot 
impatiently!) Stuart clothes - Yeah!

Ta
Carol, who has worked out the scheme for the 17th cent dress, now to sew it up!
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[h-cost] 17th cent woolen/worsted cloth

2006-03-19 Thread cahuff


Hi
I have a question for all  of you 17th cent mavens...What options are 
available for the cloth for a woolen or worsted jacket? Was most all 
of the wool cloth so heavily fulled and napped that the surface was 
smooth and plush? Was there much use of wool cloth (Middle sort, NOT 
Highlands, English) that had a distinct pattern other than 
tartan--either stripes in the warp or a shot--warp one color, weft 
another in tabby, or a twill made fancy by a different weft color?


Or am I just getting to AR and should just start sewing the undies??

Ta
Carol--slowly getting a handle on Mid 18th cent only to foolishly 
jump the Time Stream back a 100 years! Early 1st cent is beginning to 
look easy! G

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[h-cost] Re: period dye color references now dandelions

2006-03-18 Thread cahuff

Hi
The best explanation I've heard for magenta from the roots was that 
the roots were used as an assist in getting the color (I think it was 
from Sue Grierson's book--insert Lame Whine I have it somewhere and 
this cold is making me fuzzy!).


Since it seems that many of the dye books use each other as 
references--esp those from the 70's and 80's-- the myth of 
magentas/purples from dandelions just keeps on popping up! Much like 
the plant G


I've tried many dyebaths some even using the plants with the purple 
on the leaves and have gotten glorious color--just not purples, not 
from the flower/leaves/roots or any combination of the same. The only 
thing I haven't tried is a complex extraction with alcohol or ammonia 
before dying. If the snows stop, then the cheery flowers will appear 
and I can try those dyebaths...


You can get purples in several, 'period' ways. Just not from the 
little dandelion. If I'm wrong and you have produced a purple from 
dandelion---please sent me a picture!!! And the recipe--and forward 
to the list, I know we'd all like to see it!


Ta
Carol--eagerly awaiting the return of Spring!
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[h-cost] Re: Sew Martha Sew!!!

2006-02-23 Thread cahuff

At 9:27 AM -0700 2/23/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Thanks for the words of encouragement.  I've been working on the 18th
century patterns for a almost two years. (The people at Simplicity assume
I'm dead.) These are much harder to make mass-marketable than the Civil War
ones. By the mid nineteenth century, paper patterns, much as we know them
today, were available. So the sewing style that went with that is almost
modern in its mind set.  But the 18th century gowns were built on the
body. It's tricky to reach a compromise of what's really accurate and
what's possible for most people to be willing to attempt.  I'm hoping to
publish a companion piece separately to show how to really make the
garments and to share the research I've done.  Too few hours in the day!


And I'm awaiting them eagerly!!! Hopefully soon??? And will the 
companion piece be put out by you or Simplicity???

Ta
Carol--ready to trot on down to ye olde JoAnnes
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[h-cost] Re: hoop steel...

2006-02-05 Thread cahuff

At 7:57 AM -0700 2/5/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I've never managed to find the watch spring that the originals were made
from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more
(though if
anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!)

Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased
it
in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals,


Hi
We got some stuff that acted like the old caged hoop I have in an 
airplane/RC hobbiest shop. It was a short (3') length--but was spring 
steel. My DH needed to make a new spring for and old box camera. The 
stuff came in a variety of gauges. I bet you could get it in longer 
lengths from the mill.

Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: wool woolen/worsted...

2006-02-03 Thread cahuff
Um I was 'learned' that you can comb anything that has a fiber length 
longer than the depth of the comb (see combed cotton for *short*) to 
make combed rovings.
How you spin it then makes it worsted--drafting the fibers parallel 
to each other before the twist enters the drafting zone.
Longer fibers make better worsted---BUT---unless it's hand combed and 
spun, you are getting the same shorter fibers that go in woolen 
yarns. The commercial mills first process wool into carded batts 
before they feed the fiber into the combing machine. Because of 
several techie requirements, very long fibers are 'bad' and can get 
chopped down to a uniform length or rejected entirely...Once 
processed into combed top it is then spun worsted. Don't believe 
me--unspin some yarn and check the fiber length. It broke my heart 
when I found out how short the fibers are in modern linen cloth :-(


You can produce semi worsted where you spin one way and process the 
fiber the other.


Oh and true worsted has all the fibers laid butt to tip so the scales 
flow in the same direction--not something you can get in a mill 
situation.


Costume content--Up until just after WWII you could still get hand 
combed worsted suiting in England. It was held that the hand 
processing made for a better cloth and thus better suits. Then the 
old geezers died off and the youngsters were not interested in 
following the trade--a hard dirty one!


Ta
Carol--happily combing a trash fleece to remove the short 
bits/trash/second cuts. What's left spins like butter.
And who dreams of a Noble machine--all gears and belts and dangerous 
bits the size of a Volkswagon!

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[h-cost] Re: pet hair/feathers

2006-01-19 Thread cahuff

Hi
It's not schmutz, it's an added embellishment! VBEG And muddy paw 
prints just add ambiance...
Seriously have you tried shaking stuff out? Sticky tape rolled around 
your hand sticky out?

A nice clothes brush?? Which is what me Mum always used...
Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: 18th cent circular peg knitting

2006-01-13 Thread cahuff

At 8:56 AM -0700 1/12/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I have a friend who
 has a circular wooden Frame on which she makes  no- seam stockings for
herself and her man.  She was working on a pair at Christmas time.  Her era
for reenactment is the 18th century.  As a spinner and weaver, she is very
fussy to maintain traditional fiber arts for her time period.  This frame
method can even manipulate the turning of a heel.
Now I do not know how early this style of knitting was known, but the
concept is basically simple and could have been fashioned by any cottage
crafter as a means of producing leg wear, hats and neck scarves.


But it's not commonly mentioned nor pictured in any 18th cent sources 
I've seen (and I've been looking!)...there was a knitting frame--much 
more like a modern flat bed machine...If you have sources PLEASE 
PLEASE share I wanna know!!! Tho I fear this may be yet another 
case of they shoulda but they didn't :-(

Ta
Carol--knitting away on the forever socks (18th cent, combed, 
worsted, 2 ply blue/white ragg, ~12spi, o needles)

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[h-cost] Re: Serger

2006-01-13 Thread cahuff

At 3:41 PM -0700 1/13/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Carol still looking for a treadle powered serger like my Mennonite

friend has...

I was truly intrigued by this, so I went looking.  Here's someone who
built, actually converted,  her own!
http://www.mushycat.com/wiki/index.php?n=Treadles.SergerConversion


Veddy Cool
Guess I'll have to get the Toyota repaired now to use as a 'victim'...
Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: velvet pressing...

2005-11-30 Thread cahuff

At 12:27 AM -0700 11/30/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

as well.  I'm lucky - mine is 4 x 12, with a heavy cotton canvas
base which lets it curve over a ham if needed.  I got it at least 20
years ago, and it cost $50 then.  I panic if I forget where I left it
last, and I need it.


Yah know they make straight toothed carding cloth. I know I've used 
my flat backed carder in a pinch, but don't do enough velvet to 
actually go and buy a bit o carder cloth...

Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: high brow stuff

2005-11-25 Thread cahuff

At 11:20 AM -0700 11/25/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The non-existent wall that prevents otherwise intelligent people from 
enjoying these delights of Opera and Shakespeare is sewn, here in 
America  anyway,

by the anti-intellectual brigade. Those usually sports-soaked numb-nuts  that
seem to be kewl in school and never really leave college for the rest of
their lives. Ignorance is blissI guess.


And then there are the great Baltimore Opera ads--
Opera it's better than you think, it has to be...
with some very good graphics as background...
ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: Xstitch photo conversion...

2005-10-13 Thread cahuff

At 11:11 PM -0600 10/12/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Does anyone know the name of some software that will take a photo and grid

it for cross-stitch?  I know there are people who will do this if you mail
them the photo.  But I wonder if they are doing this in some computer

 software or by hand.


Yes there are several programs that will convert a photo into a 
chart. Most need massive tweaking to remove the random odd 
color...there is a Photoshop plug in that is wandering the net as 
shareware as well.

Ta
Carol
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[h-cost] Re: Xstitch software

2005-10-13 Thread cahuff

At 8:08 AM -0600 10/13/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I have been playing with it and you can only get details of images when you
go into 18+ count aida cloth.  I am putting an old fashion plate into the
software and can't get details of the face.

I am looking for anyone's suggestions as to your experience with this type
software.


It has to do with the resolution--the high the thread count the finer 
the detail. Traditional Xstitch designs are rather 'crude' and 
blocky...the modern patterns of angels etc are on a high count cloth 
and are rather large...Think pixels and screen resolution--more is 
better! And yes it all gets down to 1s and 0s VVBG

And then there are the designs that use *2* colors of thread in the needle...
TA
Carol
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