Re: [h-cost] Non destructive testing for wool/synthetic

2016-08-18 Thread michaela de bruce
Super fast way: wool is a natural fibre and has scales. So this means that like human hair you have a smooth direction and a not smooth direction. If you take a lock of hair, hold it tight you can easily run another finger down the length but it catches on the way up. Wool I think is less scaly,

Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA

2016-02-11 Thread michaela de bruce
, including cloth layouts. On 9 February 2016 at 12:11, michaela de bruce <michaela.de.br...@gmail.com> wrote: > There are heaps of patterns and guides already, it's just many books are > now OOP. Waugh did her (nicely sized) book some time ago, and same with the > Danish Nation

Re: [h-cost] searching for 1887 misses' fashion illustrations

2016-01-21 Thread michaela de bruce
I know I have a number of group photos from the 1880s, but they are obviously dressed for the photos. http://store.doverpublications.com/0486265331.html I think may be one of the books, the other was a huge tome, green cover, just trying to remember the name.

Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?

2016-01-13 Thread michaela de bruce
I have a display mannequin in the lounge, but she is naked, she is mainly holding a sci-fi alien headpiece up to prevent it deforming. So I'm going to put that on once I finish typing :) My dressform is loaned out to a friend, and the one I have borrowed in replacement is also naked while I tidy

Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"

2016-01-10 Thread michaela de bruce
ut > fabrics. It is only with the passage of time that one can see clearly how > all-pervasive the designer's contemporary aesthetics have been." It is one > of my favourite costume books, it has given me an extra layer of fun when I > watch the wonderful old movies. > > Viv

Re: [h-cost] 1880s hair-styling terms: crimps and fedoras

2014-08-20 Thread michaela de bruce
Bazaar even has a how to on this for the very late 1860s or early 1870s. I've done it and you get super super crimped and frizzy hair! Regards, Michaela de Bruce -- http://arrayedindreams.com http://neimhaille.tumblr.com http://glittersweet.deviantart.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Michaela

Re: [h-cost] gauging for gathers?

2014-03-13 Thread michaela de bruce
there are narrow knife pleats with expanses of unpleated fabric. Not really something you can rigorously calculate ;) Michaela -- http://arrayedindreams.com http://neimhaille.tumblr.com http://glittersweet.deviantart.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Michaela-de-Bruce/152637694808851

Re: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem

2010-10-29 Thread michaela de bruce
on the outside than inside ;) Luckily most of the guarding I do sits about 5mm from the edge so it's quite perfect to hide stitches. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo

Re: [h-cost] Victorian Hair:

2010-04-29 Thread michaela de bruce
and twisted. http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/19thc/1880sheer.htm That's how I did this, though without time to dress myself as well as others I didn't use any spray or anything to help my hair stay fluffy all day. Michaela de Bruce http://costumes.glittersweet.com

Re: [h-cost] google images

2010-03-29 Thread michaela de bruce
My daughter is trying to gather some images from google on women in 1920s era advertising. Every time she clicks on an image, a full-page ads-by-google pops up and completely hides the image and the original web site. The address in the browser is buyvintage ads .com or something. Google

Re: [h-cost] The term hennin

2010-01-21 Thread michaela de bruce
What's bothering me here is, why should these headdresses be associated with roosters? Roosters are male, and these are female fashions. Yes, I know a cock has a comb on its head but still, this seems to be a stretch. Even if it's an insult, it seems to me that there should be some kind of

Re: [h-cost] Dream costume project

2009-11-13 Thread michaela de bruce
side. I do media recreations as well and have been getting through my backlog of Want to Do :) Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com http://glittersweet.deviantart.com http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com

Re: [h-cost] Laser scissors

2009-08-22 Thread michaela de bruce
if you have a steady hand to begin with ;) And you wouldn't need a guide. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Curtain tape as costume supply item?

2009-08-08 Thread michaela de bruce
tape and other support type uses. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Question about a portrait

2009-06-17 Thread michaela de bruce
On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 7:22 PM, Elizabeth Walpole ewalp...@grapevine.com.au wrote: I'm pretty sure this is from the decoration in the British Parliament, there is a series of all the kings and queens of England and they all have a gold background and a caption underneath, I think it was

Re: [h-cost] German early Renaissance gowns

2009-05-31 Thread michaela de bruce
Despite looking at a lot of paintings, I am still puzzled about the waist closure of early Renaissance gowns. For example, here: http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/pics/1525_2.shtml and detail here: http://www.marquise.de/images/1500/1525_2d1.jpg Best place to go is the Extant Mary of Hungary

Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Pair of Bodies for a petite figure.

2009-05-21 Thread michaela de bruce
as the original wearer. regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com On 5/21/09, Melanie Schuessler mela...@faucet.net wrote: Yes, but this version of the corset doesn't have boning in the sides and back--only down the front. On a slender figure, it's not really a problem unless you've got

[h-cost] Judging styles was Re: losing points in judging

2009-05-12 Thread michaela de bruce
took two hours to judge 6 hats last weekend. Comments and marking schedule included. Michaela de Bruce http://costumes.glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Yardage and Rambling, was: Re: Pattern for red dress on Dr Who

2009-05-06 Thread michaela de bruce
On 5/6/09, Käthe Barrows kay...@gmail.com wrote: And I agree with whoever suggested true box pleats for that nice bodice detail. Knife pleats would do just as well, and would take up less fabric. They'll take up just as much fabric, box pleats are just knife pleats with one half pointing

Re: [h-cost] Peacock Wedding Dress

2009-04-13 Thread michaela de bruce
to it. Was a great mimic of the real deal right next to it ;) Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com On 4/14/09, app...@aol.com app...@aol.com wrote: The skirt is awesome, but I really hate the print bodice. They couldn't find something that actually matched the feathers? Kathleen Norvell

Re: [h-cost] measuring question for pleats

2009-03-12 Thread michaela de bruce
Very little need for math at all. Just do as Emma says. You will wind up with pleats possibly just shy of a full return going by the numbers. I usually though just mark how many pleats I want on the narrow part and then do the same with the wider. Match pin to pin and fold the pleats. If I want a

Re: [h-cost] Mary I ???

2009-03-02 Thread michaela de bruce
http://z.about.com/d/womenshistory/1/0/Y/Q/2/mary_i_tudor_holbein_001a.jpg Anyone seen this one before - the image name indicates it is a Holbein?? French. Probably originally a Clouet (or two.. or three) but yes a 19thC print of it. So it may well have originally been labeled as Mary

Re: [h-cost] Corset boning with zip ties

2009-03-02 Thread michaela de bruce
Love them. Just make sure to use them like you would reeds or baleen: ie every channel or every second channel. And make sure to bone the entire thing or get some additional support in there. Metal is a newer material and essentially allowed for a lot of cutting back of the amount of boning

Re: [h-cost] Victorian corset on UK TV- wearing a corset

2009-02-25 Thread michaela de bruce
. For spiral laced garments I still the lacing in the front. I do want to be able to always dress myself as easily as I'm able to. Everyone's mileage varies in this aspect ;) Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume

Re: [h-cost] More 1890s film discovered

2008-11-05 Thread michaela de bruce
Wow! Thanks for posting this :) I just forwarded the link withthe video in it. Amazing it's incredibly clear so I suspect there was a spot of restoration that went into it! The woman with the neck ruff, amazing to see a fashion in motion like that :) And all the hats... Michaela

Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for bad examples)

2008-10-03 Thread michaela de bruce
, but I'm looking at having to change how I do things. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

2008-07-03 Thread michaela de bruce
-main.html Mongia,f.monkerie Mongil,m.a monks garment, a mourning garment for a woman Mongilon, a mourning garment for a woman. In the men's section there are some religious themed garments as well. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown

2008-07-03 Thread michaela de bruce
Yes the Alcega is much narrower than most of the examples in art, so it's not going to be quite the same shape as you would get extrapolating from the art as I was doing. It also has a gentle curve up the back of the arm, which again makes me happier about my own pattern. Actually, now

Re: [h-cost] Help with Alcega was: Re: Spanish gown

2008-07-01 Thread michaela de bruce
wine toned velvet casings if I can budget it. There will also be enough to make a matching corset (corpo baxo/corpino) though they tended to match the kirtle- thus why Alcega has them in the same pattern quite often ;) Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com

Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown

2008-07-01 Thread michaela de bruce
Oh! Yes there is a bit of a layout if you look at an extant gown that is laid flat: http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm Two things bother me about this sleeve. On the site, she mentions that they were cut at the top to accomodate the statue, and also they seem to be two plain

Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown

2008-07-01 Thread michaela de bruce
not going to be quite the same shape as you would get extrapolating from the art as I was doing. It also has a gentle curve up the back of the arm, which again makes me happier about my own pattern. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h

Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

2008-06-30 Thread michaela de bruce
it and the tension in the pleats will keep the fabric from falling too far forward. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

2008-06-30 Thread michaela de bruce
, or the skirts were on occasion cut the same way. I don't really think so though given the pattern repeats in portraits don't bear this out. And the faldallin are cut so there is no vertical seam in the front. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume

Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

2008-06-30 Thread michaela de bruce
-Coello-Posters_c65778_.htm That may have been oil on canvas (according to another poster site). Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Spanish gown

2008-06-28 Thread michaela de bruce
such matching items... very annoying. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-12 Thread michaela de bruce
garment? No idea if it is true or not but I could believe the rumour started after seeing this particular style! Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h

Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts

2008-06-10 Thread michaela de bruce
There's a nice book on Spanish costume, entitled [strangely enough] Hispanic Costume 1480- 1530 by R. M. Anderson (1979), where the author has pulled together artwork of the period and grouped it by garment type to show the development of styles. It's a great place to get started if

Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-06 Thread michaela de bruce
Thanks. That was what I was thinking, but I wanted confirmation. You can see what I'm working on at www.myspace/1aspasia.com http://www.myspace.com/1aspasia (no .com after that) Best to copy and paste as, in my mail anyway, the automatic linking started from the 1 last time ;) You also

Re: [h-cost] portraits?

2008-06-01 Thread michaela de bruce
of the way her features have been painted as well as the style of dress. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] portraits?

2008-06-01 Thread michaela de bruce
current thoughts where were in armour and modern costume mode. And I seriously need to redo links all over the show as Gabrius has departed. But now I have a whole lot of new links to replace them with :D Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com

Re: [h-cost] drafting/scaling corsets to size, was: Corset pattern 1895

2008-04-13 Thread michaela de bruce
close to what I have wound up making my alterations to my 1880s corset. I just know it fits well as it is apart from the adjustments to the upper half. Michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http

Re: [h-cost] Help finding image

2008-04-03 Thread michaela de bruce
/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html And scroll down. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com On 4/4/08, otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Monica, When a url is large you can shrink it here http://tinyurl.com/ Thank you, De -Original Message- Drea Leeds has the image on her site

Re: [h-cost] Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread michaela de bruce
will eventually lose the crisp edge. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Finding information

2008-02-20 Thread michaela de bruce
which you can then take to your library's ILL librarian:) Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question

2008-02-13 Thread michaela de bruce
plotted to get more shaping in the back of the skirt to be able to get my full sleeves or just made a short sleeved gown only. I also have 6m of wide wool in cream to get through and I'm thinking surcoat and kirtle. regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com (I have also made full gowns

Re: [h-cost] Re: Linen costume question

2008-02-13 Thread michaela de bruce
through.. make that skirts turn back Michaela de Bruce http://costumes.glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Re: Colored shirts in the 16th century?

2008-01-22 Thread michaela de bruce
/recreating.php Others may be able to say for sure if woollens were ever worn directly against the body. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Cleves/Colgne dres., was Found it! - Colored shirts in the 16th century?

2008-01-21 Thread michaela de bruce
://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Bartholom%C3%A4us_Bruyn_d._%C3%84._002.jpg The lines go widthways which makes sens if they are woven specifically to that width. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com

Re: [h-cost] Found it! - Colored shirts in the 16th century?

2008-01-18 Thread michaela de bruce
not the inner layer.) And another of one of the Emperors but in his case (painted terracotta bust) it looks like there is a high necked shirt underneath. Michaela de Bruce (Cleves/Cologne is my pet area and I have been trawling through appropriate extant texts to find information. So far the undersleeves

Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

2007-12-17 Thread michaela de bruce
was introduced to them as an extra on Xena et al. and spent ages trying to track them down. Luckily my mother is a hairdresser so she can get them at trade price:) Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http

Re: [h-cost] Another German Gown

2007-10-08 Thread michaela de bruce
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/c/cranach/lucas_e/5/01duke.html Katharina again in an even better view. http://pintura.aut.org/BU04?Autnum=11507Empnum=0Inicio=61 Scroll down to Salomé con la cabeza de San Juan Bautista #12 I can't tell if it is lace or pearlwork or both. Love the

Re: [h-cost] Another German Gown

2007-10-08 Thread michaela de bruce
The hemd is painted to be very sheer and there looks to be something very sheer under the forearm I'm not sure that it is. It looks more like there was a belt originally that was painted over. The curve matches the way he painted them in other artworks. but the angle of the white speckle

Re: [h-cost] Duchess Katherine von Mecklenburg. was: Enough!!!!!..... and a return

2007-10-07 Thread michaela de bruce
It does indeed look like damask to me, also, but I'm not an expert. Also, the second red stripe - it looks to me like it's been laid over the damask and reverse appliqued (design cut out of the red and stitched rather than the yellow being applied on top of the red). What do you think? It's

Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread michaela de bruce
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? A few pins. Now my other dummy, my full length these are my curves (OMGargh!) dummy is wearing a non historical item that is still in the process of being made. And no I can't say what that is. Suffice to say she is practically nekkid at this point

Re: [h-cost] chain of office for Elizabethan

2007-09-18 Thread michaela de bruce
and George of the Order of the Garter, holding the Lord Chamberlain's white rod The present portrait can be counted among those that post-date his appointment as Lord Chamberlain in 1572, since he is depicted here holding the white rod of this office. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com

Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online

2007-09-06 Thread michaela de bruce
restaurant bring photo albums. Yep:) Since 1999 but it's shifted about and had a few makeovers;) http://costumes.glittersweet.com Now off to go look at the links before me. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)

2007-08-28 Thread michaela de bruce
, pull the other to fit tack that down, trim of the excess. The area will gather a little when not worn but fit smoothly when worn. http://hungryzombiecouture.blogspot.com/2007/08/butterick-4745-simplicity-3837.html Described a little more succinctly here;) Michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com

Re: [h-cost] Re: Updates to my Site

2007-07-31 Thread michaela de bruce
change as well, probably incorporating my style sheets from my personal costume section but altered to suit the nature of the topics. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http

Re: [h-cost] Machine versus thread

2007-07-30 Thread michaela de bruce
with the dye being corrosive on the thread at all. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glitterswet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Updates to my site, input desired

2007-07-30 Thread michaela de bruce
clutter the list up.) My own costume section needs updating too but that will have to wait as I have no pictures of recent work that really shows it off well. And I need to get permission to use images;) Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com

Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)/Dracula

2007-07-13 Thread michaela de bruce
Really? What period? I'd have to dig up the reference, but the robe and particularly the hair (yes, the butt-hair) were based on 15th-century Romanian burial costume. I'm pretty sure the book of the costumes said they were based on Kabuki costume rather than anything European. That said Lucy's

Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,

2007-06-28 Thread michaela de bruce
Tracht is clothing, and generally clothing of a specific place (now meaning folk dress) Trachtenbucher of the 16thC were books of dress of different lands. What is the context, and what is it in a Ducth, German or Danish book? It may mean to dress the dish;). I've never know it to mean to try.

Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.

2007-06-28 Thread michaela de bruce
The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to share. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm Exquisite Bjarne:) I was a little busy when you had posted the different ways you were going to trim the gown and I'm pleased you decided on what you did. I really should get

[h-cost] Latest project, red and black German renaissance

2007-06-28 Thread michaela de bruce
Hello all, As mentioned in May I was asked to join the Order of the Laurel in the SCA and have been working on (and stressing over) my gown for the ceremony. I have at least got images and progress to show, but won't have much more until after as time is pressing (I wear it a week tomorrow) and

[h-cost] Latest project, red and black

2007-06-28 Thread michaela de bruce
Hello all, (Sorry if this goes through twice, it appears as if my first mail is stuck in my sent folder in gmail) As mentioned in May I was asked to join the Order of the Laurel in the SCA and have been working on (and stressing over) my gown for the ceremony. I have at least got images and

Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,

2007-06-28 Thread michaela de bruce
Bjarne, do you know of any German, Danish or Dutch food called Trachten? I have heard this word to mean to try or try to but several who are trying to translate a 1500s Germanic recipe book thinks that is is a food of some sort. Tracht is clothing, and generally clothing of a specific place

Re: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,

2007-06-28 Thread michaela de bruce
In Dutch it means to try now (according to babelfish anyway), so the context is going to be very important. If it's Rumpolt (which I use quite often in experimenting with vegetable dishes) it's a noun anyway, not a verb. http://clem.mscd.edu/~grasse/GK_Rumpolt1.htm Further down it's taken to

Re: [h-cost] Inner Stiffening

2007-06-05 Thread michaela de bruce
and is reasonably easy to get. It's light weight and washable. After washing it loses a little stiffness but it sound slike it will still be quite ideal for a light linen. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h

Re: [h-cost] What R U doing this weekend

2007-05-29 Thread michaela de bruce
Goodness! A house fire sounds dreadful! Good to hear that you survived, though! I was extremely lucky to have been away from home, I normally would have been in bed when it happened. And congrats on the impending elevation (welcome to the Grove and all that g). The gown should be

Re: [h-cost] What R U doing this weekend

2007-05-28 Thread michaela de bruce
you will find all my posts about it. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com Yes my costumes were in the house, no they weren't burnt but they were smoke andheat damaged to some degree but most have been salvageable. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume

Re: [h-cost] lacing rings

2007-05-23 Thread michaela de bruce
What do you guys use for lacing rings? I just found this vendor: It depends. For large meant to be seen rings I use 13mm brass rings from the curtain section of Spotlight/Harvey furnishing etc. Anywhere you can buy everything to make a curtain. They come in several sizes and treatments:

Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

2007-05-22 Thread michaela de bruce
of the terms. Is it just and English term as well? I would like to do some hunting in texts of other lands. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

2007-05-21 Thread michaela de bruce
in the British Library. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

2007-05-17 Thread michaela de bruce
this Itm for a grete basket for the Quenes stuf vj d for her stuff) Mary's wardrobe accounts apparently include a fine paste buckram for a farthingale I think Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Bildindex is in English now!

2007-05-09 Thread michaela de bruce
decades you can usually have enough to choose from without having to go through thousands of images. Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com *Which I perfectly understand and I would expect from a place where English is not the main language! ___ h