Re: [h-cost] checking on a merchant

2013-02-03 Thread seamst...@juno.com
I have a couple of styles from Fugawee (Martha and Debbie) and they have all 
been pretty comfortable. I had a pair of their straight last shoes (Connie) and 
even though I ordered what I thought would be big enough, I probably should 
have gone another half size bigger. The other two fit well right out of the box 
and have held up well. KarenSeamstrix

-- Original Message --
From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] checking on a merchant
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 08:33:23 -0800

I have shoe fitting issues, and called them before ordering. I  
described my issues, and they suggested that for me, a half-size up  
would be the best. I spent about 3 weeks wearing them half-days and  
then full days before their first event, but they were comfortable  
right away.

The only reason I spent so long getting used to them is that they were  
colonial, and I usually don't wear heels. So it was more getting my  
feet used to the concept than breaking in a shoe.

They are nice to work with, too.

 == Marjorie Wilser

 =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Feb 2, 2013, at 2:44 PM, llwa...@juno.com wrote:

 I'm getting ready for the Costume Con historical masquerade, and it  
 looks like a shoe style from Fugawee (http://www.fugawee.com/ 
 index.htm) will be very close to what I need.  However, I don't know  
 anyone locally who's dealt with them.  What are their shoes like?   
 Do sizes run small/large, or pretty close to standard commercial  
 sizes?  (The shoes I'm looking at are straight-last, if it  
 matters.)  Any problems with orders?

 Leah

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Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

2012-02-24 Thread seamst...@juno.com
I use a couple of tablespoons of whole cloves in those little drawstring 
organza wedding favor bags in all my boxes of wool/feathers. It seems to work 
pretty well. There's no staining from the cloves and my clothing has a warm 
spicey aroma. I'm sure they would work as well for cedar and lavender.   Karen 

-- Original Message --
From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com
To: gbacgcostum...@yahoogroups.com, Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 12:27:40 -0800

Hi all,

We've had an infestation of moths in the house, mostly in my feather
collection. I had them all in a (not airtight) plastic container. Thinking
that they needed some air, I kept all the vintage feathers carefully
wrapped up in tissue. Those feather I didn't care much about were in
zip-lock bags and had no moths in them at all. Of course the damage was to
the vintage feathers.

When I bring feathers home, I always put them in a zip bag and leave them
in the freezer for a couple of weeks to kill off any bugs that may already
be in them before I add them to my collection. Unfortunately, something
went wrong with my plans. After tossing about a third of my collection,
I've cleaned the rest and put them back into the freezer. I'll be ready to
take them out this weekend. Before I do I want to purchase some cedar chips
or a bit of cedar and put them in with the feathers and in my wool boxes
(the smell of moth balls makes me nauseous so I'm not going there).

SO my question: I understand the oils in the cedar (or lavendar if I decide
to use that instead) can stain and I wondered how you have avoided this.
Would putting the cedar or lavendar into one layer of muslin keep my
fabrics/feathers from being stained and still keep the moths out? Two
layers?

Thanks for any information you might have,
Lynn
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Re: [h-cost] Pattern Suggestions

2012-02-09 Thread seamst...@juno.com
Personally, I swear by Truly Victorian Patterns. I have made a number of them 
and they have always gone together easily and fit beautifully. They aren't as 
cheap as the Big Ones, but they are worth every penny (and they aren't that 
expensive either). http://www.trulyvictorian.com/  Just a satisfied customer! 
Karen 

-- Original Message --
From: annbw...@aol.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Pattern Suggestions
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 11:00:03 -0500 (EST)



Okay, folks, I may be getting a Steampunk urge, since a big event is right up 
the road in May. I long ago wanted to do an 1870s bustle style and this seems 
like a good opportunity. My question is, what pattern(s) do you all recommend 
for an 1870s era bustle day outfit? I'm thinking bodice with high neck and 3/4 
sleeves and underskirt with draped overskirt. I do have the skill to make some 
minor changes to a pattern-could certainly modify the sleeve, for instance--but 
want something that I wouldn't need to do a lot to, as time is of the essence. 
Also not stuck on 100% authentic to the period--that is one of the appeals of 
Steampunk! 

I was hoping the Big Two had something that I could just pick up at the fabric 
store and run with, but I didn't see anything suitable there.

Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] Pattern Suggestions

2012-02-09 Thread seamst...@juno.com
I have made the basic 1870's underskirt several times and it is quick and 
simple to make. 
http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=81cat=2page=1  I 
have also made the 1871 Day Bodice several times and really like the result. 
http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=32cat=2page=1  I 
have made several of the overskirts but in terms of bang for buck (and effort), 
the Bustle Apron Overskirt is probably the best option. 
http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=40cat=2page=1 
Have fun! Karen  

-- Original Message --
From: annbw...@aol.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern Suggestions
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 11:23:54 -0500 (EST)





Truly Victorian has some nice patterns for the bustle era:
http://www.trulyvictorian.com/


Several of you recommended Truly Victorian, and I had already seen them on the 
Great Pattern Review website. Any particular style or styles you found 
preferable?

Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2012 11:08 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern Suggestions


On 02/09/2012 11:00 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

Okay, folks, I may be getting a Steampunk urge, since a big event is right up 
he road in May. I long ago wanted to do an 1870s bustle style and this seems 
ike a good opportunity. My question is, what pattern(s) do you all recommend 
or an 1870s era bustle day outfit? I'm thinking bodice with high neck and 3/4 
leeves and underskirt with draped overskirt. I do have the skill to make some 
inor changes to a pattern-could certainly modify the sleeve, for instance--but 
ant something that I wouldn't need to do a lot to, as time is of the essence. 
lso not stuck on 100% authentic to the period--that is one of the appeals of 
teampunk!

I was hoping the Big Two had something that I could just pick up at the fabric 
tore and run with, but I didn't see anything suitable there.

ruly Victorian has some nice patterns for the bustle era:
http://www.trulyvictorian.com/
-- 
athy Raymond
a...@thyrsus.com
Even imperfection itself may have its ideal or perfect state.
-Thomas de Quincey
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Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute

2012-02-06 Thread seamst...@juno.com
As I understand it, nankeen was a pale yellow/pale brownish cotton which was 
originally from naturally colored cotton and then became a term for a sturdy 
cotton dyed a buff yellow in imitation of the Chinese original 
(nankeen=nanking). I have never heard it refered to as being a special weave 
(like twill) so I have assumed that it is just a sturdy plain weave cotton in a 
pale yellow. I'd love to know if anyone else has more specific information.   
Karen 

-- Original Message --
From: Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:37:47 -0600

Hello all,

I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay.  It 
says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and 
that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but 
doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead.  Does anyone 
know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation?

Thanks!
Emily
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Re: [h-cost] marking tools

2012-01-12 Thread seamst...@juno.com
I use a square of tailor's chalk for most of my marking needs. I have also 
heard of using a piece of old fashion soap (like Ivory) for marking fabric.   
Karen 

-- Original Message --
From: Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. manordto...@stthomas.edu
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] marking tools
Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2012 14:15:00 +

I still use the tried and true (and, yes, somewhat time-consuming) method
of basting through the pattern, leaving loops, and then cutting the treads
so you get bits on both pieces of cloth.  It is kind of the ultimate in
control for me.  I also use the square of chalk, since you can use a sharp
knife to make a really narrow edge on them, although they need to be
sharpened frequently.  They are great along a straight edge.

On 1/12/12 8:07 AM, Land of Oz lando...@netins.net wrote:

I've just about had it with the standard pencil type marking instruments
at 
JoAnn's. If you try to sharpen them enough to make a detailed line, the
chalk breaks off. If you try to leave the end wide and blunt, you can't
make 
anything but the most basic dots.

What do you pros out there use? I have a wheel and marking paper, but
that's 
really hard on the pattern tissues and I like to re-use them if possible.

What's your favorite and where do you get it?

thanks
Denise
Iowa

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Re: [h-cost] Converting a Sack Style Men's Dress Coat to a Frock Style Men's Dress Coat

2011-11-04 Thread seamst...@juno.com
I am assuming that you mean a Victorian Frock coat (as opposed to an 18th 
century American hunting frock). I would think that it would be very difficult 
to do such a conversion due to the significant differences in basic pattern 
between the two. For one, a sack suit generally isn't as long in the 'skirts' 
as a frock coat so I don't know where the extra fabric would come from. Also, 
there are pleats (small but definitely there) which fall from the waist of the 
frock which have no counter part in a sack suit. Honestly, I'd just shop around 
for a good sale on wool (try Denver Fabrics or Fabric.com on line) and make him 
one from scratch. Of course there might be someone else with a better 
understanding of this sort of thing who could give you better advice so this 
could be a learning experience for both of us!  KarenSeamstrix 

-- Original Message --
From: Angelique Carlson subversivey...@me.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Converting a Sack Style Men's Dress Coat to a Frock Style 
Men's Dress Coat
Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 07:35:35 -0500

My son loves frock style coats and I'd love to make him one for Winter. Wool 
coating is fairly expensive, and I am hoping that it would be possible to alter 
a sack style coat from a nearby thrift store. Do you think it's possible?

Thanks in advance,
Angelique
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Re: [h-cost] Working class pattern

2009-06-19 Thread seamst...@juno.com
I don't think it's necessarily a painting of a real woman. I think it's a 
painting for an aristocratic audience who likes to think of the peasantry as 
happy and prosperous so it's an idealized image that may have never actually 
existed. I believe that the general style is quite accurate but the richness of 
the fabrics and trim may be a nod to the audiences expectations. 

Karen
Seamstrix



-- Original Message --
From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Working class pattern
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 21:33:30 -0700

Might this be a painting of a wealthy woman playing at being a peasant? I
ask because of the fancy trim at top of green apron/skirt and because her
hair seems to be quite fancy, puffed and with ringlets, more like the ladies
coiffures in Moda a Firenze, than a peasant (who would rightly have her
hair in a coif or otherwise covered. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Becky Rautine
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 5:52 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Working class pattern


 

New image: http://www.marquise.de/en/1500/pics/1580_2.shtml

New situation: I'm hoping to be a aprticipant next year at a Ren Faire
(hopefully Scarsborough) as a weaver. I want to have a shoppe to sell
weavings of shawls, mats, handkerchiefs, etc. I have a floor loom and am
wanting to make a smaller one for the shoppe. Trilooms and small looms to
show kids how to weave. I'd need a persona for working class, maybe Italian
like the image.

New question: In this image, is this the working pattern? Is the a front
part of the skirt or an apron. Is she sitting on a gold cloth and the green
is her skirt. I see decoration of the front so it must not be an apron. 

I really like this portrait.

I love the gold and green combo. And the ribbons at the shoulder.

Creative overload!!!

Becky Rautine

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Re: [h-cost] Black beads Princess Elizabeth image

2009-06-16 Thread seamst...@juno.com
I was able to see several period pieces of jewelry at the VA in London and I 
was interested to note that the diamonds in the pieces really do look black. 
It's not just an artist's convention. I would probably describe it as a 'smoke' 
sort of black, not a solid black but it was a far cry from the sparking white 
diamonds used in modern jewelry. 
 
Karen 
Seamstrix

-- Original Message --
From: Alexandria Doyle garbaho...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Black beads Princess Elizabeth image
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 08:43:28 -0500

During this period it was common for the diamonds to have a foil backing, so
they could and do typically look black in paintings.

alex

On Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 11:28 PM, Becky Rautine zearti...@hotmail.comwrote:


 After all the discussion about the black beads in other portraits, I see
 the black squares in the Princess ELizabeth portrait as the black with a
 white spot like someone said. Could these be diamonds instead of onyx or
 some other black stones?The pearls are black here, but maybe the others are.
  One site that reproduces Renaissance jewelry has this as a white diamond
 instead of the black square on the necklace part. I'm making this complete
 outfit for my daughter. Are these suppose to be white diamonds instead of
 the black squares? I never thought about it until the recent eye-opening
 research on black pearls in paintings.

 Sincerely,
 Rebecca Rautine


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So much to do and so little attention span to get it done with…
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Re: [h-cost] London's Hidden Gems

2009-06-08 Thread seamst...@juno.com
I always recommend Sir John Soane's Museum and The Wallace Collection. 
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- Original Message --
From: Kate Bunting k.m.bunt...@derby.ac.uk
To: h-cost...@indra.com h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London's Hidden Gems
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 09:15:12 +0100

Not a London expert, but I do know that it's actually Bethnal Green.

Kate Bunting
Librarian  17th century reenactor


From: Alexandria Doyle garbaho...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] London's Hidden Gems
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Message-ID:
   870801590906060945p50638188o76f87ddc3087b...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

May I suggest the museum of Children in Bethel Green?  I went there to
see the dolls but they do have a bit of collection of children's
clothing.  I went several years ago, but the curator in charge of the
dolls had some wonderful stories about the clothing as well, since
they can document exactly what children wore these clothing (mostly
Victorian era) and a bot about their life.

Of course, they have some wonderful dolls, doll houses and other toys, too

alex



The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the 
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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about workmanship andhistoric al interpretation

2009-05-08 Thread seamst...@juno.com
And this is a perfect example of how documentation can make or break a costume 
in judging. If you have this in your docs, then the judges know that you are 
deliberately doing this as a period practice and not as lazy/sloppy 
construction. 
 
I have judged a number of competitions ( including workmanship at World Con and 
Historic at CostumeCon) and one example of the need for documenation stands out 
in my mind. I was judging a fairly informal competition at an SF con when this 
guy showed up for judging wrapped in what was clearly a sheet off a hotel bed, 
looking kinda scruffy and, and not doing much. Two of the judges were like 'Um, 
yeah- whatever' and had pretty much dismissed the guy completely. He had no 
documentation of any kind. The thrid judge was a comic book geek and went nuts 
over how great the costume was. It turns out that this costume was a darn near 
perfect reproduction of a character in an obscure graphic novel who believed he 
was Jesus. The third judge managed to convince the rest of us that it was a 
great costume and later showed me the graphic novel and he was right, the 
costume was spot on. They guy got an award (novice level, if I remember 
correctly) but he almost got no recognition at all beca!
 use most of the judges weren't comic book geeks and had NO CLUE what he was 
trying to do. All he would have had to do was show us one of the graphic novels 
or even just a xeroxed copy and we would have gotten it. 
Much as it pains me to admit, even the most knowledgeable judge doesn't know 
everything. If you want us to know something, you have to tell us Telling 
us is called 'Documentation'. 
Karen
Seamstrix
-- Original Message --
From: Glenda Robinson glendasli...@exemail.com.au
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about workmanship 
andhistorical interpretation
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 19:09:54 +1000

You wrote:


--The worst thing we judges saw, in Workmanship, was unfinished raw edges
with loose threads fraying out of them.  I think about half of what we saw
had this problem, and it didn't gain anybody points.  (That said, my own
seam finish isn't always that great unless I think a workmanship judge, or
one of my students, will ever see it.)  

Of course, there are periods where a raw edge is more authentic than
finished edges. My 7th century Anglo-Saxon outfit is made that way
deliberately. The cloth is a really hardy diamond twill, the seams are just
laid over each other and stitched with the fabric's wool (which would have
been left over from the fabrication), both inside and outside. A lot of
12-13th century garments were made without finished edges too. 

Glenda.


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Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?

2009-02-21 Thread seamst...@juno.com
That wouldnt be a 'kick pleat'. The tunic probably has a gore(s) set into the 
side seam. When it's hanging down, it can give the appearanced of a pleat. 
 
Karen
Seamstrix


-- Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com wrote:








Ah ha!  That was what I thought - thank you.  One of the details I am 
interested in is the side kick pleat

The baggy trousers and boots might imply 
 the wearer is aiming for Russ Viking, but a Russ tunic would have wide 
 skirts rather than a split.

http://tinyurl.com/cjb8dt


 Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:33:15 +
 From: anne.montgome...@googlemail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
 

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Re: [h-cost] Gore training: was: What period/country etc is this tunic ?

2009-02-21 Thread seamst...@juno.com
I find that putting simple gores in the sides of tunics tends to create the 
look without any effort on my part. The type of fabrics used in this style 
tends to have alot of body and the front and back pieces maintain their shape 
(relativley speaking) whihc forces the gores to sort of fold up and look 
'pleaty'. Am I getting too technical? :)
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com wrote:


Hmm, I can see what you are saying.  You'd have to train the gore to lie like 
that right?  I mean when I put a gore in it usually doesn't fold up on itself 
like that.  This  looks like it comes to a point on the outside and the 
underlying fabric is tucked back underneath it like a pleat almost creating a 
facing for the slit/point.  Now, on the other hand, I recently draped some wool 
where it did just this.

The only reason I am pushing the point, is I like the look but am suspicious of 
the authenticity of the way it is made/looks.

Sg 

 From: seamst...@juno.com
 Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 20:07:21 +
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
 
 That wouldnt be a 'kick pleat'. The tunic probably has a gore(s) set into the 
 side seam. When it's hanging down, it can give the appearanced of a pleat. 
  
 Karen
 Seamstrix
 
 
 -- Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ah ha!  That was what I thought - thank you.  One of the details I am 
 interested in is the side kick pleat
 
 The baggy trousers and boots might imply 
  the wearer is aiming for Russ Viking, but a Russ tunic would have wide 
  skirts rather than a split.
 
 http://tinyurl.com/cjb8dt
 
 
  Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:33:15 +
  From: anne.montgome...@googlemail.com
  To: h-cost...@indra.com
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
  
 
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