Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA
http://artflsrv02.uchicago.edu/cgi-bin/philologic/getobject.pl?c.25:24.encyclopedie0513 Just found this in a hunt for other images. It certainly contains more information than I have seen from published snippets. Diderot, I think the entire encyclopedia in fact, but the tailor stuff is all here, including cloth layouts. On 9 February 2016 at 12:11, michaela de bruce wrote: > There are heaps of patterns and guides already, it's just many books are > now OOP. Waugh did her (nicely sized) book some time ago, and same with the > Danish National Museum (some of which are online as pdfs- and there are a > range of garments tidenstoj*- but I understand the books are really huge- > or maybe I'm thinking of a Swedish series of books? I know there are many > European books not in English anyway) and Blanche Payne. The Tailor's > manuals all focus on men's gear and women usually are listed after the > clergy and horses. Even two of Arnold's books has men's garments (and there > are more male garments than female in the 3rd book. > > Anyway, women's extant garments tend to be a lot bigger, so when you are > talking a rigid torso and pleated and draped skirts that's incredibly > difficult to carefully explore without damage. And so much damage happened > to women's dress especially in the 19thC that they often need more > restoration. That is if they survive. During periods of heavy fabrics and > patterns skirts became very handy to recyle in to church vestments or to > redress effigy/figures. The garments LACMA started with are ideal as they > can be carefully laid quite flat- and they can also confirm the shapes seen > in the tailor manuals at the time. > > so for those who want more patterns: > > > https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22Minister+and+co%2C++ltd%22 > 3X copies of "Gazette of fashion, and cutting-room companion" 1860s > > > https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22edward+minister+and+son%22 > 4x copies of Gazette of fashion. 1870s-1881 > > All seven books focus on mens' garments. > > > http://costumes.org/wiki/index.php/History100pages1893to1898cuttersguide > or http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_Cutters_Practical_Guide > > Part 1, 1898 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting Every Kind > of Garment Made, in a series of parts, Part One. Young Men's, Youths' and > Juvenile Garments, Embracing also Treatise on Trousers, Vests, Military > Garments, Liveries, etc., etc., etc. > Part 2, 1893 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting every type > of Garment made by Tailors, With detailed instructions as to their > production, Part II, Body Coats of every description, embracing Morning, > Frock and Dress Coats, Livery, Clerical, Naval, Military, Police and other > Special Garments > The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting & Making all Kinds of > Trousers, Breeches, & Knickers, to which is added chapters dealing with the > cutting & making of Highland kilts, leggings, gaiters, etc. in Gallery > View, [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library] > Part 4. date unknown, Livery Garments in all their varieties, including > coats, vests, trousers, breeches and gaiters as worn by livery servants > [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library] > Part 9,1898 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Jacket Cutting and > Making, Embracing Lounges, Reefers & Patrol Jackets, in all their > Varieties, Also Including the Cutting and Making of Robes and Gowns, Being > Part IX of The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting and Making of all > Kinds of Garments > Part 10: (edition date unknown) > The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making all kinds of Waistcoats > for Gentlemen, Ladies, Military & Naval Officers, Livery Servants, etc., > etc. in Gallery View, [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library] > Part 11 . date unknown, Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, and > Specialty Clothing for Various Occupations [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the > Lakewood Library] > Part 12 (Date Unknown) The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making > all kinds of Clerical Dress [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library, > includes also British Legal and Academic robes] > Part 13 (Date Unknown) The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making > all kinds of British Military Uniforms [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the > Lakewood Library, includes also British Legal and Academic robes] > > https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=UulhcAAJ&dq > L'Art du tailleur. The Tailor's Guide; a complete system of cutting every > kind of garment to measure, etc. 2 vol > Charles Compaing, Louis Devere > Simpkin, Marshall&Company, 1855 - 128 pages > > https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=TSNhcAAJ&dq > The Art of Cutting Breeches ... Fourth Edition > Front Cover > George WALKER (Tailor.) > > There is a huge resource out there, it's just that those of us going out > and looking are probably looking for our areas of focus. So I've had most > of these links for ages but I don't use them so I don't ta
Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA
There are heaps of patterns and guides already, it's just many books are now OOP. Waugh did her (nicely sized) book some time ago, and same with the Danish National Museum (some of which are online as pdfs- and there are a range of garments tidenstoj*- but I understand the books are really huge- or maybe I'm thinking of a Swedish series of books? I know there are many European books not in English anyway) and Blanche Payne. The Tailor's manuals all focus on men's gear and women usually are listed after the clergy and horses. Even two of Arnold's books has men's garments (and there are more male garments than female in the 3rd book. Anyway, women's extant garments tend to be a lot bigger, so when you are talking a rigid torso and pleated and draped skirts that's incredibly difficult to carefully explore without damage. And so much damage happened to women's dress especially in the 19thC that they often need more restoration. That is if they survive. During periods of heavy fabrics and patterns skirts became very handy to recyle in to church vestments or to redress effigy/figures. The garments LACMA started with are ideal as they can be carefully laid quite flat- and they can also confirm the shapes seen in the tailor manuals at the time. so for those who want more patterns: https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22Minister+and+co%2C++ltd%22 3X copies of "Gazette of fashion, and cutting-room companion" 1860s https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22edward+minister+and+son%22 4x copies of Gazette of fashion. 1870s-1881 All seven books focus on mens' garments. http://costumes.org/wiki/index.php/History100pages1893to1898cuttersguide or http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_Cutters_Practical_Guide Part 1, 1898 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting Every Kind of Garment Made, in a series of parts, Part One. Young Men's, Youths' and Juvenile Garments, Embracing also Treatise on Trousers, Vests, Military Garments, Liveries, etc., etc., etc. Part 2, 1893 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting every type of Garment made by Tailors, With detailed instructions as to their production, Part II, Body Coats of every description, embracing Morning, Frock and Dress Coats, Livery, Clerical, Naval, Military, Police and other Special Garments The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting & Making all Kinds of Trousers, Breeches, & Knickers, to which is added chapters dealing with the cutting & making of Highland kilts, leggings, gaiters, etc. in Gallery View, [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library] Part 4. date unknown, Livery Garments in all their varieties, including coats, vests, trousers, breeches and gaiters as worn by livery servants [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library] Part 9,1898 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Jacket Cutting and Making, Embracing Lounges, Reefers & Patrol Jackets, in all their Varieties, Also Including the Cutting and Making of Robes and Gowns, Being Part IX of The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting and Making of all Kinds of Garments Part 10: (edition date unknown) The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making all kinds of Waistcoats for Gentlemen, Ladies, Military & Naval Officers, Livery Servants, etc., etc. in Gallery View, [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library] Part 11 . date unknown, Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, and Specialty Clothing for Various Occupations [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library] Part 12 (Date Unknown) The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making all kinds of Clerical Dress [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library, includes also British Legal and Academic robes] Part 13 (Date Unknown) The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making all kinds of British Military Uniforms [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library, includes also British Legal and Academic robes] https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=UulhcAAJ&dq L'Art du tailleur. The Tailor's Guide; a complete system of cutting every kind of garment to measure, etc. 2 vol Charles Compaing, Louis Devere Simpkin, Marshall&Company, 1855 - 128 pages https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=TSNhcAAJ&dq The Art of Cutting Breeches ... Fourth Edition Front Cover George WALKER (Tailor.) There is a huge resource out there, it's just that those of us going out and looking are probably looking for our areas of focus. So I've had most of these links for ages but I don't use them so I don't talk about them. It looks like project Gutenburg has been absorbed totally but the Internet Archive but: https://archive.org/ I do random searches for specific garments and tailoring terms. Ditto for Google Books: https://books.google.com/bkshp?hl *http://natmus.dk/historisk-viden/temaer/modens-historie/ (all links are nicely red and underlined, and the patterns are located at the bottom of each garment page, to the right under a large block of grey- atm. Anyway, that's as much time as I have, but they are out there already, and a
Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA
I believe those same patterns have been up for a good couple of years. But yes, quite nice to have more men's patterns! Michael Deibert, NRP OAS AAS LLS Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 1, 2016, at 20:25, Marjorie Wilser wrote: > > Nice that they are doing the men, who are so often neglected when patterns > are being sold. > > ==Marjorie > >> On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Christine Robb wrote >> (in part): >> >> So far they're showing 4: >> >> Man's At-home Robe (Banyan), China, 1700–50, Robe: the Netherlands, 1750–60 >> >> Man's Waistcoat, China for the Western market, c. 1740 >> >> Man's Waistcoat, France, c. 1750 >> >> Man's Coat, France, 1790–95 >> >> >> >> >> Anyone know if this is a new thing or has been up for a while, and >> whether more patterns are going to become available? > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA
Nice that they are doing the men, who are so often neglected when patterns are being sold. ==Marjorie > On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Christine Robb wrote (in > part): > > So far they're showing 4: > > Man's At-home Robe (Banyan), China, 1700–50, Robe: the Netherlands, 1750–60 > > Man's Waistcoat, China for the Western market, c. 1740 > > Man's Waistcoat, France, c. 1750 > > Man's Coat, France, 1790–95 > > > > > Anyone know if this is a new thing or has been up for a while, and > whether more patterns are going to become available? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA
Description from their website: Thomas John Bernard (pictured with assistant curator Clarissa Esguerra), a theatrical costume designer, worked with the curators and conservators of the Costume and Textiles Department at LACMA to draw these patterns approximating the design of garments in our collection. http://www.lacma.org/patterns So far they're showing 4: Man's At-home Robe (Banyan), China, 1700–50, Robe: the Netherlands, 1750–60 Man's Waistcoat, China for the Western market, c. 1740 Man's Waistcoat, France, c. 1750 Man's Coat, France, 1790–95 Anyone know if this is a new thing or has been up for a while, and whether more patterns are going to become available? Christine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
