This isn't easy to describe without pictures--I hope you can understand it.
I know of two extant examples, but both are cotton.? For wool, a back closing
would probably work better--I just saw an extant example of a lovely plain wool
gown that opens in back, which answered my question of how I'm going to make up
the wool I bought to go with a shawl my husband gave me two years ago.
But, about the low stomacher, or apron front, construction.? One of the gowns
has a surplice bodice--that is, the fronts cross over and form a V neckline--I
don't remember if the original was then pinned or tied closed, but I made mine
with ribbon ties that meet and tie in the back.? On the other, the bodice meets
edge to edge and ties shut.? The front skirt panel is contructed like that for
a bib front gown, with slits on either side.? The panel has a drawstring
through it, and one places it over the bodice and ties it in place.? Two things
I've found in constructing such gowns--first, people during the period didn't
seem to care so much about what I call gaposis, so the bodice may end just at
the waist--I like to extend it a little more to give adequate tuck-in below the
skirt panel.? Second--one of the extant dresses was made so that the skirt
drawstring ran inside the bodice and tied invisibly somehow--this drove me
crazy trying to put it on and adjust everything insid!
e, so I changed mine to an outer fabric tie as I've made my bibfront dresses.?
The tie runs through a casing in the top of the skirt, the ends cross and go
around the back, where I place fabric carriers on the side back seams at the
waist, then I bring the ends back around to the front to tie.? Having them tie
in the front seems to give more security to keep the skirt in position at the
raised waistline.? In keeping with the line of the early 19th century, your
front panel should lie flat, not gather up.? It helps to cut that front panel
to accommodate the tummy--I actually curve those side front edges slightly,
taking an inch off at the waist and tapering to nothing at the end of the
slit.? The slits can be finished with a narrow hem or a placket facing.
Ann Wass
-Original Message-
From: Melanie Wilson melaniewil...@dragonflight.co.uk
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 7:00 am
Subject: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher
Does anyone have any pictures or knowledge of the costruction of a low
stomacher on a regency gown please, I'm particularly looking for anything of a
heavier/winter weight type fabric ?
Mel
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