Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)

2007-08-28 Thread michaela de bruce
> I am working on a wedding gown with
> raglan sleeves; the neckline looks like
> some of the examples cited within the
> past week. So, I'm wondering what to
> do when you love the look, but are worried
> about the sleeves sliding too far off the
> shoulders. Would you narrow the top of
> the sleeve (that makes up the over-the-
> shoulder part of the neckline)? This is a
> modern-style dress with simple princess
> lines, done in silk matelasse underlined with
> silk organza. Thanks a million.

Make sure the body side seams go far up and as close to the armpit as
is possible. The neckline can come right out the edges of the shoulder
this way. What keeps the sleeves up in my 16thC garments is this
combined with the neckline being all cut on the straight, so there is
no stretch to allow the sleeves to be pulled down. Even the extremely
wide neckline of my Anna Meyer dress doesn't fall down despite being
too wide. And with my better cut dresses I have full range of motion
in my arms.

Narrowing the top of the sleeve section will only pull the body up and
make a higher neckline, you can play around with the angle of the join
between body and sleeve to get a snugger fit.

How far have you got into the making of this dress? If you have
already cut the fashion fabric to size you may need to resort to stay
tapes at the neckline and maybe elsewhere. I have used elastic stays
with success. You make a case for them or herringbone sitch around
them (but not into the elastic) then tack one end, pull the other to
fit tack that down, trim of the excess. The area will gather a little
when not worn but fit smoothly when worn.
http://hungryzombiecouture.blogspot.com/2007/08/butterick-4745-simplicity-3837.html
Described a little more succinctly here;)

Michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)

2007-08-28 Thread Melanie Schuessler
If you make the back in a V neckline with the point of the V about 5  
inches below the nape of the neck, they won't go anywhere, especially  
if you put twill tape in the edge of the neckline so it can't stretch  
anywhere.  If you bring the sides of the front of the neckline close  
in to the neck and put the back of the neckline at the nape of the  
neck, they really won't go anywhere.


Lingerie loops (or bra loops) are good for some things, but if the  
sleeves are heavy enough to drag the dress off her shoulders, they  
might be heavy enough to drag the brastraps off, too.


Melanie Schuessler


On Aug 28, 2007, at 11:43 AM, Maureen Conklin wrote:


I am working on a wedding gown with
raglan sleeves; the neckline looks like
some of the examples cited within the
past week. So, I'm wondering what to
do when you love the look, but are worried
about the sleeves sliding too far off the
shoulders. Would you narrow the top of
the sleeve (that makes up the over-the-
shoulder part of the neckline)? This is a
modern-style dress with simple princess
lines, done in silk matelasse underlined with
silk organza. Thanks a million.

~ Maureen

==
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)

2007-08-28 Thread Ruth Anne Baumgartner
If it's a modern dress, there should be no objection to sewing bra  
loops into the shoulder seam. They're very comforting when you need  
your mind to be on other things!
Sew True in NYC www.sewtrue.com has pre-made ones, very narrow ribbon  
and tiny snaps, in black or white. I'm sure other tailoring supply  
places carry them too. I haven't noticed them in places like JoAnn's  
though.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


On Aug 28, 2007, at 2:04 PM, Beteena Paradise wrote:

I would raise the back of the neckline so that the sleeves were  
less likely to fall. From my experience, tighter sleeve tops  
doesn't always help. Good luck. :)


  Teena

Maureen Conklin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  I am working on a wedding gown with
raglan sleeves; the neckline looks like
some of the examples cited within the
past week. So, I'm wondering what to
do when you love the look, but are worried
about the sleeves sliding too far off the
shoulders. Would you narrow the top of
the sleeve (that makes up the over-the-
shoulder part of the neckline)? This is a
modern-style dress with simple princess
lines, done in silk matelasse underlined with
silk organza. Thanks a million.

~ Maureen

==
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)

2007-08-28 Thread Maureen Conklin

Thank you. I still can't decide if the sleeves are
really falling down, or if it just feels that way. :)
Any other suggestions are welcome, too. Thanks.

~ M.

Original Message Follows
From: Beteena Paradise <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:04:08 -0700 (PDT)

I would raise the back of the neckline so that the sleeves were less likely 
to fall. From my experience, tighter sleeve tops doesn't always help. Good 
luck. :)


  Teena


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Re: [h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)

2007-08-28 Thread Beteena Paradise
I would raise the back of the neckline so that the sleeves were less likely to 
fall. From my experience, tighter sleeve tops doesn't always help. Good luck. :)
   
  Teena

Maureen Conklin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  I am working on a wedding gown with
raglan sleeves; the neckline looks like
some of the examples cited within the
past week. So, I'm wondering what to
do when you love the look, but are worried
about the sleeves sliding too far off the
shoulders. Would you narrow the top of
the sleeve (that makes up the over-the-
shoulder part of the neckline)? This is a
modern-style dress with simple princess
lines, done in silk matelasse underlined with
silk organza. Thanks a million.

~ Maureen

==
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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[h-cost] Tudor sleeves again (sort of)

2007-08-28 Thread Maureen Conklin

I am working on a wedding gown with
raglan sleeves; the neckline looks like
some of the examples cited within the
past week. So, I'm wondering what to
do when you love the look, but are worried
about the sleeves sliding too far off the
shoulders. Would you narrow the top of
the sleeve (that makes up the over-the-
shoulder part of the neckline)? This is a
modern-style dress with simple princess
lines, done in silk matelasse underlined with
silk organza. Thanks a million.

~ Maureen

==
~ Twinkle, dammit! ~


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