http://artflsrv02.uchicago.edu/cgi-bin/philologic/getobject.pl?c.25:24.encyclopedie0513 Just found this in a hunt for other images. It certainly contains more information than I have seen from published snippets. Diderot, I think the entire encyclopedia in fact, but the tailor stuff is all here, including cloth layouts.
On 9 February 2016 at 12:11, michaela de bruce <michaela.de.br...@gmail.com> wrote: > There are heaps of patterns and guides already, it's just many books are > now OOP. Waugh did her (nicely sized) book some time ago, and same with the > Danish National Museum (some of which are online as pdfs- and there are a > range of garments tidenstoj*- but I understand the books are really huge- > or maybe I'm thinking of a Swedish series of books? I know there are many > European books not in English anyway) and Blanche Payne. The Tailor's > manuals all focus on men's gear and women usually are listed after the > clergy and horses. Even two of Arnold's books has men's garments (and there > are more male garments than female in the 3rd book. > > Anyway, women's extant garments tend to be a lot bigger, so when you are > talking a rigid torso and pleated and draped skirts that's incredibly > difficult to carefully explore without damage. And so much damage happened > to women's dress especially in the 19thC that they often need more > restoration. That is if they survive. During periods of heavy fabrics and > patterns skirts became very handy to recyle in to church vestments or to > redress effigy/figures. The garments LACMA started with are ideal as they > can be carefully laid quite flat- and they can also confirm the shapes seen > in the tailor manuals at the time. > > so for those who want more patterns: > > > https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22Minister+and+co%2C++ltd%22 > 3X copies of "Gazette of fashion, and cutting-room companion" 1860s > > > https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22edward+minister+and+son%22 > 4x copies of Gazette of fashion. 1870s-1881 > > All seven books focus on mens' garments. > > > http://costumes.org/wiki/index.php/History100pages1893to1898cuttersguide > or http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_Cutters_Practical_Guide > > Part 1, 1898 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting Every Kind > of Garment Made, in a series of parts, Part One. Young Men's, Youths' and > Juvenile Garments, Embracing also Treatise on Trousers, Vests, Military > Garments, Liveries, etc., etc., etc. > Part 2, 1893 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting every type > of Garment made by Tailors, With detailed instructions as to their > production, Part II, Body Coats of every description, embracing Morning, > Frock and Dress Coats, Livery, Clerical, Naval, Military, Police and other > Special Garments > The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting & Making all Kinds of > Trousers, Breeches, & Knickers, to which is added chapters dealing with the > cutting & making of Highland kilts, leggings, gaiters, etc. in Gallery > View, [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library] > Part 4. date unknown, Livery Garments in all their varieties, including > coats, vests, trousers, breeches and gaiters as worn by livery servants > [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library] > Part 9,1898 edition, The Cutter's Practical Guide to Jacket Cutting and > Making, Embracing Lounges, Reefers & Patrol Jackets, in all their > Varieties, Also Including the Cutting and Making of Robes and Gowns, Being > Part IX of The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting and Making of all > Kinds of Garments > Part 10: (edition date unknown) > The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making all kinds of Waistcoats > for Gentlemen, Ladies, Military & Naval Officers, Livery Servants, etc., > etc. in Gallery View, [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library] > Part 11 . date unknown, Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, and > Specialty Clothing for Various Occupations [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the > Lakewood Library] > Part 12 (Date Unknown) The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making > all kinds of Clerical Dress [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the Lakewood Library, > includes also British Legal and Academic robes] > Part 13 (Date Unknown) The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting & Making > all kinds of British Military Uniforms [Scans by Pat Lamprey of the > Lakewood Library, includes also British Legal and Academic robes] > > https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=UulhAAAAcAAJ&dq > L'Art du tailleur. The Tailor's Guide; a complete system of cutting every > kind of garment to measure, etc. 2 vol > Charles Compaing, Louis Devere > Simpkin, Marshall&Company, 1855 - 128 pages > > https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=TSNhAAAAcAAJ&dq > The Art of Cutting Breeches ... Fourth Edition > Front Cover > George WALKER (Tailor.) > > There is a huge resource out there, it's just that those of us going out > and looking are probably looking for our areas of focus. So I've had most > of these links for ages but I don't use them so I don't talk about them. > > It looks like project Gutenburg has been absorbed totally but the Internet > Archive but: > https://archive.org/ > I do random searches for specific garments and tailoring terms. > > Ditto for Google Books: > https://books.google.com/bkshp?hl > > *http://natmus.dk/historisk-viden/temaer/modens-historie/ > (all links are nicely red and underlined, and the patterns are located at > the bottom of each garment page, to the right under a large block of grey- > atm. > > Anyway, that's as much time as I have, but they are out there already, and > are really well covered in the V&A books- mainly surface details and cape > layouts. > > Regards, > > > -- > http://arrayedindreams.com > https://instagram.com/i.chimaera/ > https://www.facebook.com/mdb.i.chimaera > > -- http://arrayedindreams.com https://instagram.com/i.chimaera/ https://www.facebook.com/mdb.i.chimaera _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
