In general, suits look best on guys with less than perfect figures; they
give definition and bulk to the skinny, and conceal potbellies and other
flab-related flaws. But muscular men tend to have problems with wearing
them
unless they're tailored to perfection. My husband is convinced that
Subject: [h-cost] grading patterns to fit a very large man
Hi everyone,
I need to make a 1580s doublet for a large man, chest measurement 60
inches. Being small myself, I have difficulty visualising the way very
large pattern pieces work with the changing proportions of a large
chest and
Right now mine's topless. On her bottom half she's wearing the red with
yellow fleur de lis skirt that will be the lower half of my new 1635
Cavalier gown for 12th Night. The bodice is cut out, but I'm embroidering
it with gold thread and pearls before I sew it together. She also has a
Subject: [h-cost] ironing
I once did the ironing for the priest on my campus (the linens we use at
mass and such). He had washed them but did not put them in the dryer. To
keep them wet he kept them in the ridge and then while you ironed you not
only took out all wrinkles but also dried
In going through my fabric stash, I find I have a number of things I've
bought over the years that I no longer consider suitable for medieval
clothing. They're good fabrics, and I am wondering what they might be
useful for (other than modern clothing or home decor). I know almost
nothing
My secret Santa was Catherine Kinsey, who made the most wonderful needlebook
out of handdyed linen, with a mermaid embroidered in silk floss. As if that
wasn't enough, she enclosed a brass pin dating from the late 1600's.
Since I do a LOT of handsewing, I've already put both items to use, and
Catching up here.
They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you won't be
able to use them (recent personal experience). Fortunately, I have a
friend with a resale number and I just pay him the wholesale plus state
sales tax and everything is fine.
Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL
snip
Several people have brought up the question of cold climate with the idea
that drawers would be logical/necessary for warmth. Just as one data
point, I routinely go without underwear when in costume, and I have never
noticed any chill up the skirts; the only parts I've noticed to suffer in
Have you seen the Three Musketeers and the Four Musketeers with
Michael
York, Richard Chamberlain, and Oliver Reed? Talk about costumes!!! They
are
amazing, and they have recently become available on DVD. Although again,
Raquel Welch's costumes were designed differently from all the rest, and
Hmm so you think they had a corset with tabs to which the bumroll was
attached and over it the dress? So the dress itself should be of two
parts - the skirt and the bodice. One thing that remains a mystery to me
is this perfect fit of the bodices - I'd say they were at least stiffened
Hi,
I think some of you might have misunderstanded my explanations to this.
I was not reffering to the movie picture costumes, but the cavallier style
fashion for women. With the high waists.
The reason why i want the bumroll to be laced to a bodice is that the
dress waistline is so high
I've got a couple things that work for me. First, everything is in one
room. I also have a smock that I wear to work in. I first started using
the smock just because it kept me from getting thread and lint all over my
clothes and it had a lot of pockets, but it has come to mean work to me.
No, I haven't found it a problem either: after all, the high waist of the
Cavalier style isn't as extreme as that of the Empire line. I'm
long-waisted, but I make my bodices come down to my lower ribs and wear my
bumroll round my waist. It sits on my hipbones and supports the waist of
my
How odd that men's doublets are boned, yet the women's arent. Ref:
Naomi Tarrant's Devel of Costume, p.109-110 photos showing the thick
cardboard used to create the straight area between the chest and
waist. The front edge is further stiffened by a whalebone. The
doublet is 1630s, Natl Museum of
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
In either the 3 Musketeers or The 4 Musketeers, (I forget which
one)the
ones with Fay Dunaway and Michael York, there is a scene where Faye is
undressing. I don't know if the undergarments are authentic or not, but
it's
a start.
(sorry, didn't get the name of
Speaking of3 Musketeers is about real people toothe King of France
and the Duke of Buckingham were real people but no one believes Dumas'
story is true. Perhaps because the main characters are not real.
(snip)
Actually, d'Artagnan was a real person, and was a member, eventually
Occasionally, I think men need to be shown a short video of women's
reactions to their clothes and presentation. Guys, we don't even notice
you in your dark blue tunic with the dark red facing and black trousers.
The video would undoubtely show us gushing Ooo, Terese, look at that guy
in the
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Equestrian costuming other period tack
Spreading the legs apart when they are decently
covered with long skirts is perfectly okay.
Ruth M. Green, in her Wearing of Costume, mentions
that keeping the legs together in long skirts is not
particularly decent nor is it
Ladies Gents,
A quick question, I'm copying the doublet worn by the dashing gent in
Caravaggio's The Fortune Teller now in the Louvre. Both my copy
the original are mustard gold velvet with the chocolate brown racing
stripes and those huge balloon sleeves. At the cuff, which cant be
seen well
(snip)
I'm trying to figure out how the wrist closure is constructed. I doubt
it is constructed like a modern suit jacket where the vent is lapped
then sewn in place with false buttonholes. Does it have lots of
buttons or just one? Is it laced? hooked? or completely closed the
hand just slips
Sort of...professional furriers will tumble the fur in a barrel filled
with
some sort of media such as walnut shells or sawdust, that has been charged
with a cleaning solution. Then the media is vacuumed out of the fur, and
the
fur is steamed and pressed between rollers that line up and fluff
Mine's named Yasmine, and currently she's wearing the pinned together bodice
of my new 17th cen. high necked bodice. Sprouting out of her neck are two
beanie babies--a pink poodle and a pink and white hamster. Why, you'd have
to ask my youngest daughter, who's home from college.
Melusine
Please excuse the forwarded message, but I can't take this commission and I
thought maybe someone here would be interested. Please reply to the original
sender, not me.
Thanks,
Melusine
From: tyiles
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 4:16 AM
Subject: Costume
I come from a family of sewers. My paternal great-grandmother was a
dressmaker. She literally could copy anything she saw, including most types
of lace. I inherited many of her tools and a ton of handmade lace and lace
samples, which I used on my own wedding dress, and my niece's christening
snip
My first serious attempts came my first year in grad school, when I joined
the SCA. Although my first garment was something I now refer to as the
Ostrogothic prom dress (green taffeta bog-style gown), I got better
fairly quickly, since being a history grad student did make me start
My current projects are:
2 17th cen. shirts, a turkish coat, and a doublet, all for a customer. The
shirts need to be finished by Weds., I'd like to have the rest done by next
week.
A pair of goat leggings out of a microfibre fur that really does look
like goat hair, and a pirate coat.
My biggest daydream is to have someone to do the plain sewing. I love the
designing, the research, the patterning and even the initial cutting and
testing a garment. After I have it figured out, I don't want to do the
sewing. I love the finishing, especially fine details, but I'd love to
O.K. folks, I will be in Washington in just over two weeks (please excuse
a small squee!) and visiting Alden O'Brien at the DAR Museum on the Friday
morning 23rd.
We would like to meet anyone who can make it for dinner/supper/evening
meal at the hotel Harrington that evening, around
I don't know when they became common, but my treadle machine, a 1909 model
that belonged to my great-grandmother the dressmaker, has a buttonhole
attachment that was original to the machine. It holds the fabric in a small
hoop, which then moves from side to side to make a zig-zag stitch, and
While searching for something else, I found this corset on the Manchester
Galleries site.
http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/object.php?irn=14962QueryPage=index.phpthemeback=2CostumeTheme=costume%20sub-theme
It is dated 1620 to 1640, but to my eye it looks a bit later. Does anyone
on
would very much like to be able to cite
them.
Melusine
- Original Message -
From: Carmen Beaudry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 3:32 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Corset at Manchester Galleries
While searching for something else, I found
Snip
Though I do have a question, hopefully someone where has studied the art
of
making stays; why is it that before the 19thC strips of baleen used for
the
bulk of stays were so incredibly narrow? I'm sure you get more flexibility
with it but still have a very supportive garment. But is the
I think there is a picture of the Manchester stays in Corsets and
Crinolines, with a later date. I have a drawing from a student of the
same stays, also dated later. I think that date given was 1670 - court
dress of this time had the tops of the shoulders exposed.
Thank you, Suzi, this is
Does anyone on the list live in or about Paris, France? I'm going to be
visiting from the 14th to the 23rd of Sept., and would like to ask a few
questions.
thanks,
Melusine
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] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Carmen Beaudry
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 3:47 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Paris, France
Does anyone on the list live in or about Paris, France? I'm going to be
visiting from the 14th to the 23rd of Sept., and would like to ask a few
There are lots of 80's movies that could be rented depending on her age.
ah, of course! but it wouldn't be a true school project if you let mom
know more than 12 hours ahead of time what you require. The library is
closed and there isn't a movie rental place within a half-hour's drive.
Very curious and interesting! Thanks for sharing. The only other
asymmetrical men's doublets that come to mind are from much earlier, like
the Barthel Beham scorekeeper from 1529.
What about this one:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElizabethKnollys.jpg
I've always wondered where it closes.
Here's a couple of links. I've bought from Junonia before and their quality
is good.
http://www.junonia.com/subDepartment-5-Swimwear.htm
At 18:58 01/12/2006, you wrote:
It's that oh so fashionable time of the year. Holiday parties, gifts,
theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
ensemble What are you working on?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Mine is wearing padding, a shift, corset and pink
At 18:58 06/12/2006, you wrote:
If you're talking about the shirts book, I kind of do. It's still hung up
in legal issues - estate, copyright, permissions... the typical yadda
yadda for publishing a book of this nature. It happens that my research
crosses over hers, a couple of the shirts in
I recieved a lovely album of baroque lute music, which I have yet to have
time to play. This is wonderful, for I am always looking for music from my
favorite period (early 17th cen.).
Melusine
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- Original Message -
From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help finding an article?
I have it. It's not a very good copy, but I do have it. Do you still need
it?
Melanie
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nanban trader...
My first question, of course, is: what would they wear? I can find tons
of information on Spain for these years (and gorgeous outfits too), but
nothing on Portugal. Well... yes and no. Royalty seems to be
interchangeable between Spain and Portugal at
http://www.jessamynscloset.com/homepage.html
A bunch of images and info about Spanish and Portugese costume.
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The fashion definitely started in the '60's, part of the hippie Native
American stuff. (snip)
Here's some pics from Woodstock, 1969, both Jimi Hendrix and Roger Daltrey
are wearing fringed outfits.
http://www.woodstock69.com/file6.htm
I grew up in the San Francisco Bay area and I seem to
Melusine,
Thank you so much for the link. Those are the jackets in the videos I saw
on The Tube.
Penny Ladnier,
You're welcome, I've been enjoying the trip down memory lane. I was a
little young to be directly involved in the Summer of Love, but I remember
what San Francisco was like in
It's called Canadian smocking.
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php
It goes by other names as well, as this page will tell you. It is incredibly
consumptive but its well worth it. It took me a good couple of hours to
grasp how it's done; I am left handed and have to mentally invert
Carmen Beaudry wrote:
http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html This looks like the back of
lattice smocking.
That's not a valid link. Do you recall the title and artist?
Dawn
sightry this one: http://www.wga.hu/index1.html
Portrait of Lucrezia Panciatichi by Bronzino
Melusine
From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Just my 2 cents worth, but when I looked at the pic on the front of the
pattern, the armseye seems too large. If you look at the pics of Helen
Mirren in these gowns, the sleeves fit tightly up under the arm. Gives a
more period look, but maybe is not so
On Fri, 27 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:
Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between your
thumb and finger and try and roll it into a narrow hem. Curse. Snip
off any frayed bits you caused. Take tiny stitches with the other
hand. Repeat.
I'll confess this is how I've always done
(snip about sewing birds and other clamp-type things)
I've seen those, and also wondered about the heavy/stiff pillows it
looks like stitchers are using in some of the 17/18C paintings. A
couple of examples:
http://www.arthistory.cc/auth/velazquez/index.htm scroll down to 'The
Needlewoman'
Sewing birds? Anyone have a pic they would like to share? :-)
Arlys
Here's the one(s) I have.2 different people gave them to me for Yule.
http://www.lacis.com/catalog/search.php
Melusine
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Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?
I just love starting this thread... such interesting answers.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
Right now Yasmine's completely naked! I just removed the
burgundy/gold/black 1625 French Cavalier dress that I've been renovating for
a client
This reminds me of...
One thing I am sure of is that the armseye of the upper garments will not
be as high as the originals nor the bottoms as capacious . These would
grace any stage quite nicely. Owning originals that are Not comfortable
for actual modern wear, in a
On May 2, 2007, at 5:54 PM, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
This reminds me of...
One thing I am sure of is that the armseye of the upper garments will not
be as high as the originals nor the bottoms as capacious . These would
grace any stage quite nicely.
That sounds like a veiled insult to
(snip about percieved insult to theatrical designers)
You didn't? Am I just being overly sensitive? I often feel like
historical re-enactors and reproducers of accurate historical costumes
look down their noses to a certain extent at theatrical costume designers
because the latter don't
I didn't either. As both a historian and a costume designer, I see no
reason to be embarrassed about the very good reasons why accuracy is
often compromised on the stage. I still groan when I watch films with
terribly bastardized fashions, but I can often tell why they did it.
Telling
I didn't go so far as to read the instructions. Alas...
Presently working in miniature, I struggle nightly in trying to create my
doll costumes using all the pieces that would have made the shapes if I
were doing them for people; it is hard indeed to compromise, but I have
not yet bent to
Chuckle...And I bet you didn't try to enter that one in a contest?
Except, perhaps And how many Zippers did you manage to get in on this
one?
Makes me think of the first time I remember the leather store on the board
walk of Provincetown !!
Kathleen
Nope, and you couldn't see the zippers
From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]
She wrote a book, too, Geisha, By Liza Dalby
ISBN #0-394-72893-9. Mine was published by Vintage Books, division of Random
House, in 1985.
Originally published Berkeley: University of California Press 1983
Yep, I've got that one, also the book she
Frankly, I thinking working with fabrics in authentic widths would be a
blast. But then, I'm here more for the historical/reenactment end of
things. And if I ever win the lottery (not that I play, mind you,
but),
then porsches be darned, I'm getting some of those exquisite silk velvets
Y'all must read/hear/see stuff in places I don't, or something... Where,
exactly, do people go on and on about the historical accuracy of
costumes or content in cinematic movies?
If we're talking about The Tudors, the Showtime (or HBO, can't keep them
straight) program guide.
And why do
To my knowledge -- and blackwork isn't my thing -- blackwork is
later than 1400. There are more knowledgeable folks on this list than
I in that respect.
susan
There is a form called Assisi work, uses the same stitches as blackwork, but
was often worked in red, and I believe there's extant
I've sent my contact the images already cited as proof-of-concept for
Tudor period, and the information posted here that there were stitches
that could be reversible. That's a good start, but for publication
purposes she needs a published source on the stitch types for that period
(as seen in
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting
Well for one, a man would not hold his thang like that to pee.
No, but an artist would certainly paint it that way if he wanted to show
the act, but not the anatomy.
Denise
I've also seen men holding themselves exactly like that when
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting
Another note,
The young gentleman in the foreground, dressed in yellow - is he wearing
womens shoes or is it his own?
Just that i se a big difference for the other gentlemans shoes, and the
yellow gentlemans shoes, looks very like the maids
I think that any hat that is felted is so densely felted together that it
is very durable. I don't know of any solution that makes a hat stiff. Must
be one though.
Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine
You can use hide glue to stiffen felt or buckram. Hatmakers also use
thinned shelac to stiffen and
It looks like there's a good chance that within the year, I'll be moving
to the Seattle area. Is there anything out there of interest to h-cost type
folks? -E House, dreading packing and planning to start EARLY this
time...
It depends on what period you're looking for. European history
2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project!
I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living. Is this
true?
If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical clothing?
8 platform shoes,
-C.
Oh my word! How on earth did you walk in them?
High heels are such a foreign concept to me. I've been singing my whole
life, and singers should never wear a heel over an inch high (throws off
your balance, which throws off your breathing). But then, being 5'9, I
never
I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an
interesting question.
What would be your dream costume?
If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.
Well, I tend to make my dream costumes. My good friends and family bought
the materials for my Laureling gown:
Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
Hi,
Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i
have to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled.
Wich way is the best to iron it?
Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron
it,
My dummy is currently naked, because the pink and black flamenco dress is
finally done and delivered to the customer. It's a gorgeous dress, with a
black taffeta bodice embroidered with shaded pink flowering vines, and the
ruffled sleeves and skirt ruffles done in alternating light and dark
My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and shirts
for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was still in the
Air Force.
Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his uniforms had to be
replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool
I just gave away the last bits of Air Force wool from my dad's uniforms.
He retired in 1974. I remember my mother and I both having suits made
from that wool.
Melusine
Jeeze, I hope you kept the patches and insignia, I have boxes of the
things.
One day, one day...
-C.
No, what I had
I just recieved the first issue of the new Victoria magazine, and there's an
article devoted to Tasha Tudor's antique clothing collection. Very pretty,
mostly early 19th century dresses and jewelry.
Melusine
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Right now Yasmine's naked, but there's two commissions that she'll be
alternately wearing probably by the end of the week.
First one is a 1630-ish dress jacket and overskirt out of a cloth-of-silver
brocade and bottle green and pale gold brocade sleeves and stomacher. I
don't technically
(snip)
Query 2: Where could I get an idea of what types of trimmings were used
so that I can better visualize them? I do okay with only written
descriptions, but examples I can see work much better. I have some long
lengths of white gimp, a colored fringe and a white gimp/netted tassel
Hi there,
I am thinking about finally getting a dressmaker's form for myself, but I
am not sure which type I should get. Here is the dilemma, I am a woman of
ample size (US size 26-28). My hope is, as always, to drop some or a lot
of weight, but if I waited to get dressform until I was
Does anyone have an online source of images of masque costume from about
1580-1620? I already found a good page here http://tinyurl.com/25y7cz
which gives me a great start, but any other images would be a great help.
Thanks.
Suzi
This page has most of the on-line images that I found. I
Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything
about this book?
Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul
Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover)
by Aileen Ribeiro
Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book?
Just thought I'd mention, Fashion Fabrics Club has silk taffeta for $9.95 yd.
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/Catalog_items.aspx?Query=silk+taffeta+9.95
Melusine
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About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?
Somewhere around 500, more if you count the art books, but they're packed
right now.
What was the first one you purchased? Where did you purchase it?
Payne's History of Costume. I didn't purchase it, my high school
Hi folks,
I'm in the middle of making several of Folkwear's #222, vintage vests. I've
got them all cut out and the front pockets set, only to find that I'm missing
the directions to the view I'm making, and its collar is not the same as the
others. I've made this vest before, and I can
Don't you just hate that!!!
It happens too often when I get patterns from eBay. From now on its going
to
be in my standard list of questions when buying patterns.
Sidney
I bought this one new, I've just used it a lot and can't remember where I
might have put the rest of the
Hi folks,
I'm in the middle of making several of Folkwear's #222, vintage vests. I've
got them all cut out and the front pockets set, only to find that I'm missing
the directions to the view I'm making, and its collar is not the same as the
others. I've made this vest before, and I can
Right now she's wearing a purple and black 1900 summer walking suit, with a
pair of mens 1635 breeches in green brocade thrown over top of everything to
keep them out of the way.
Melusine
- Original Message -
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday,
While I haven't encountered it in making something, I have heard of
problems with fibromyalgia (if I spelled that right!) and similar
pain problems. Torso surgery or injury that, even after healing, can
leave a person with sensitive areas. And, of course, people who wish
to participate in
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
snip
Today I was reading a book by the author that turned me onto this film in
the first place; the (fiction) book talks about the prior theater
production in the Hollywood Bowl, and mentions fairies in cellophane.
In her Acknowledgments she cites help from the
Happy New Year to all.
I am being lazy, and asking for help before doing any research. My DH and
I will be going to a fancy dress do (emphasis on not entirely accurate) as
M. and Mme Thenardier from Les Mis. Mostly I can cobble together
costumes from other stuff we have, but I would love
- Original Message -
From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk
snip
Thanks, but as this is a slightly jokey dress-up for a party type evening,
I don't really need to go into too much detail. I did find a lovely
picture of Louis Capet (Louis XVl) wearing one,
I've dealt with them for silk dupioni and taffeta. Their prices are
excellent, and so is their shipping and customer service.
Carmen
- Original Message -
From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 5:06 AM
Dupion and Taffeta I can get here, at prices that
are higher, but don't involve shipping from the
U.S. and the resultant customs duty on goods over
£25.00. I can also get silk/rayon velvet at a
similar price, but 100% silk is way more expensive which is why I was
asking.
Suzi
I haven't had a
On Jan 14, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
I've dealt with them for silk dupioni and taffeta. Their prices are
excellent, and so is their shipping and customer service.
What weight is the taffeta? Is it lining weight, or is it the heavier
sort?
Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler
I
I costume an opera singer and so far she hasn't had any trouble singing in
any of the corset styles I've made for her, and I haven't done them any
differently that I would for anyone else. In fact, she says that it's
easier to sing in a well-fitted corset, as it adds support.
Melusine
Thanks for sharing your experience. Just for my imagination: what
bust-waist-hip reduction would you choose in this case? (Ho many cm
smaller?)
I usually make the bust about 2cm smaller than the measured bust
circumference, the waist...up to 10cm smaller...and the hips - no
reduction.
Zuzana
I'm thinking of buying a 1950's sewing machine with a buttonholer
attachment, the kind that uses templates to make different size buttons.
Some of them have templates that make round eyelets, and I'm wondering,
has anyone used them for lacing eyelets on period corsets and bodices?
I have a
Right now nothing, as I'm in the process of reworking the sewing room, but
the wicker lady hanging from the ceiling has on a 1889 black silk Belgian
corset. As soon as I get rework done (last set of shelves to be made
tomorrow!) I have 2 17th cen. petticoats to have done before the first of
From: Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net
I had some white peacock feathers at one time. I suspect they
were bleached. The gold section was still metallic looking and
another part was pinkish, with the rest being a cream color. They
would have made quite an impressive dress, too.
There
Mine's wearing three fancy brocade table runners that will grow up to be a
Victorian inspired jacket as soon as my current commisions are done.
Melusine
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