Hi everybody,
I'm considering purchasing a Horn Stick or a Pip (Pyp?) Stick. They both differ
in method of attachment to the horn, and at least in the pictures, also on
which leg the device rests.
I also have reservations about rotating my horn to empty my water-seems it
could be quite
On 20 Jan 2008, at 1:05 pm, Melvin Baldwin wrote:
I'm considering purchasing a Horn Stick or a Pip (Pyp?) Stick. They
both differ in method of attachment to the horn, and at least in
the pictures, also on which leg the device rests.
They differ considerably.
The PipStick mounts solidly
Interestingly enough, the earliest 103s didn't have a MAIN tuning slide
either. The leadpipe fed directly into the change valve, then you had the
little Bb slide on the front and the F slide on the back. Totally independent
tuning! The earliest Pelletier model Kings with the piston thumb
Tuning of a double horn
Yes, it is a Holton horn. Thank you for that information about what that slide
is. That water slide (with the symbol) was jammed way out when I first
acquiered the horn. After we finally got it out we saw that the slide must have
been dropped because the end of the one
Horn #1 = Alexander Bb single, vintage ~1975.
Horn #2 = Yamaha 666, vintage ~1982.
Mouthpiece = Pizka.
I measured how far the mpc goes into the lead pipe on each because I noticed
it goes in less far on the Yamaha.
Alex = 24 mm insertion depth
Yamaha = 19 mm insertion depth
What am I to do
Steve wrote:
Horn #1 = Alexander Bb single, vintage ~1975.
Horn #2 = Yamaha 666, vintage ~1982.
Mouthpiece = Pizka.
I measured how far the mpc goes into the lead pipe on each because I noticed
it goes in less far on the Yamaha.
Alex = 24 mm insertion depth
Yamaha = 19 mm insertion depth
What am
Steve H. wrote:
Interestingly enough, the earliest 103s didn't have a MAIN tuning slide
either. The leadpipe fed directly into the change valve, then you had the
little Bb slide on the front and the F slide on the back. Totally
independent tuning! The earliest Pelletier model Kings with the
Think about using your hand for small pitch changes it will help your
endurance.
Debbie Schmidt Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 20, 2008, at 9:21 PM, Steve Freides
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Horn #1 = Alexander Bb single, vintage ~1975.
Horn #2 = Yamaha 666, vintage ~1982.
Mouthpiece = Pizka.
-Original Message-
From: Debbie Schmidt [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Think about using your hand for small pitch changes it will
help your endurance.
Debbie Schmidt Sent from my iPhone
Debbie, my problem is that I'm not aware that I'm doing it, I just know I
must be. It's very
In a message dated 1/20/2008 8:23:19 PM Central Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
What am I to do about this? Which is right, which is wrong, and what, if
anything, should I do, assuming I wish to continue to use this same
mouthpiece on both horns.
Hi Steve,
How far the MPC
Everytime I start to have trouble playing chronically sharp, all I have to do
to correct the problem is to spend an appreciable amount of time working on low
horn work, I mean VERY LOW horn work. My favorite low horn part to honk
around on is Kerry Turner's Quartet # 1. I can't play the
Steve: the only thing to do is, you must compensate the
length gained on the Yamaha by pushing the main tuning slide
in for another 2,5 mms (makes a total of 5 mms). - and for
John Dutton: my mouthpieces are made after the US standard
(shank). It is a pitty, that horn makers around the world
never
It means, that you cramp the one or the opposite way. Why
not playing all relaxed with less vertical pressure,
mouthpiece set at the edge of the lower lip so it pulls the
lip opening open enough ? You would soon find out that you
play more relaxed without getting sharp or flat. Getting
flat due to
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