[Hornlist] Tuning meter recommendations

2009-04-07 Thread Vincent Duval

Marksueron asked

knowing that you do not like playing and watching the meter, when  
you do, does it adjust to each pitch instantaneously? what if  
you're playing something allegro?? when you're in tune equal  
tempered, does the needle jump around a little bit or not?



I tested out my little CA-30 about an hour ago. I did not try to get  
hard data or test the response limits of my tuner. I simply played a  
few runs at a fairly relaxed tempo, four notes to the beat at about  
m.m. = 100. It took no time whatsoever to determine that my tuner did  
not register any of the notes other than the first pitch of the run  
and whatever pitch I landed on and held at the end of the run.


Frankly, I'm not surprised. My experience is that any time I try to  
perform something fast, most auditors can't tell what notes I'm playing.



Vin Duval




-Original Message-
From: Vincent Duval 
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 11:45 pm
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning meter recommendations


In a message dated 4/4/2009 5:50:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,?
william.s.gr...@gmail.com writes:?
?
meter. It's?

no longer working.?
?
I would appreciate recommendations on a replacement with attention to?
response time.>?
?
?
Gosh, I'm sorry that my response time is so slow, but I get my  
hornlist posts in digest format, and I've been busy doing other  
stuff, so I just didn't read my email in a very prompt manner and  
all.?

?
I'll agree with Carlberg, my CA-30 works well and it's cheap.  
However, most days I'd rather use a tuner that I can hear than use  
one that can hear me. My old AT-12 has a tone generator that is  
loud enough to hear while I'm playing, and I find that playing  
against a drone does more to improve intonation than following an  
equal-tempered needle or LCD with my eyes.?

?
Just my 2 cents. It may be plus or minus a little, depending upon  
if I've been calibrated today.?

?
Vin Duval?
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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning meter recommendations

2009-04-06 Thread marksueron
knowing that you do not like playing and watching the meter, when you do, does 
it adjust to each pitch instantaneously? what if you're playing something 
allegro?? when you're in tune equal tempered, does the needle jump around a 
little bit or not?


-Original Message-
From: Vincent Duval 
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 11:45 pm
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning meter recommendations


In a message dated 4/4/2009 5:50:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,?
william.s.gr...@gmail.com writes:?
?
?
?
?
Gosh, I'm sorry that my response time is so slow, but I get my hornlist posts 
in digest format, and I've been busy doing other stuff, so I just didn't read 
my email in a very prompt manner and all.?
?
I'll agree with Carlberg, my CA-30 works well and it's cheap. However, most 
days I'd rather use a tuner that I can hear than use one that can hear me. My 
old AT-12 has a tone generator that is loud enough to hear while I'm playing, 
and I find that playing against a drone does more to improve intonation than 
following an equal-tempered needle or LCD with my eyes.?
?
Just my 2 cents. It may be plus or minus a little, depending upon if I've been 
calibrated today.?
?
Vin Duval?
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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning meter recommendations

2009-04-06 Thread David A. Jewell
From: Vincent Duval 
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Sunday, April 5, 2009 11:45:02 PM
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning meter recommendations
I'll agree with Carlberg, my CA-30 works well and it's cheap. However, most 
days I'd rather use a tuner that I can hear than use one that can hear me. My 
old AT-12 has a tone generator that is loud enough to hear while I'm playing, 
and I find that playing against a drone does more to improve intonation than 
following an equal-tempered needle or LCD with my eyes.

To add to my post about the TM-40 it generates and octave worth of semitones 
and can be output to an amplifier it it's not loud enough. 
Paxmaha



  
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[Hornlist] Tuning meter recommendations

2009-04-05 Thread Vincent Duval

In a message dated 4/4/2009 5:50:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
william.s.gr...@gmail.com writes:

meter.   It's

no longer working.

I would appreciate recommendations on  a replacement with attention to
response time.>



Gosh, I'm sorry that my response time is so slow, but I get my  
hornlist posts in digest format, and I've been busy doing other  
stuff, so I just didn't read my email in a very prompt manner and all.


I'll agree with Carlberg, my CA-30 works well and it's cheap.  
However, most days I'd rather use a tuner that I can hear than use  
one that can hear me. My old AT-12 has a tone generator that is loud  
enough to hear while I'm playing, and I find that playing against a  
drone does more to improve intonation than following an equal- 
tempered needle or LCD with my eyes.


Just my 2 cents. It may be plus or minus a little, depending upon if  
I've been calibrated today.


Vin Duval
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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning Meter Recommendations

2009-04-05 Thread Debbie Schmidt
I have both the needle type and electronic needle type tuner ... The
standard needle type does respond faster then the korg 20 or 30




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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning Meter Recommendations

2009-04-05 Thread Carlberg Jones

At 3:04 PM -0400 4/5/09, Donald Huang wrote:

I'm rather sure that I remember reading that it turns off after 20 minutes.


Yep!

"AUTO POWER OFF FUNCTION
The power will turn off automatically, if the 
unit is left powered-on for 20 minutes without 
performing any operation, avoiding unnecessary 
battery consumption."


http://www.korg.com/Product.aspx?pd=99

Carlberg

--
Carlberg Jones
Skype - carlbergbmug
Cornista - Orquesta Sinfónica de Aguascalientes
Aguascalientes, Ags.
MEXICO
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[Hornlist] Tuning Meter Recommendations

2009-04-05 Thread Donald Huang
Carlberg hypothesized:
> I believe it turns itself off automatically after a=20
> certain period of time, otherwise the battery=20
> surely would have run down.

I'm rather sure that I remember reading that it turns off after 20 minutes.

Donald Huang
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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning a double horn(playing sharp)

2008-01-22 Thread David Goldberg
Here's good practice for blending your low chops with your high chops:  
Kopprasch #23, #56, #32.


{  David Goldberg:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  }
{ Math Dept, Washtenaw Community College }
 { Ann Arbor Michigan }



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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning a double horn(playing sharp)

2008-01-21 Thread hans
Yes, Valerie, you have understood it right. All has to be
played with "about" the same embouchure setting. The only
difference is it, to open more or to close  the opening
between the lips by the use of the jaw more, but in a very
sublime manner. This can work only, if you use not more than
the "necessary" vertical pressure, where vertical means
mouthpiece verse lips. Inserting the mouthpiece just at the
border of the red flesh of the lower lip helps a lot. It is
the wrong way to play the extreme low notes with protruding
lips as seen so often.

Hope this helps a bit. If you have more questions, please,
ask again. 

Greetings through the language barrier.

Hans




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Valerie WELLS
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 11:30 PM
To: horn1 list
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning a double horn(playing sharp)


Hans, thank you for your comments.  However, I'm not sure I
understand what you are trying to tell me.  Do you mean that
when I work on low horn parts, I'm setting in the lower lip
too deeply (Einsetzen?) pulling the lips apart too much and
it is causing cramping?  Do you mean that I should be using
the same basic embouchure "set up" for all my playing?
Please clarify across the pond & our language barriers as
best you can.  Thank you.
Valerie  
 
< It means, that you cramp the one or the opposite way.
Whynot playing all relaxed with less vertical
pressure,mouthpiece set at the edge of the lower lip so it
pulls thelip opening open enough ? You would soon find out
that youplay more relaxed without getting sharp or flat.
Gettingflat due to playing low parts ? Why ? Because you
aredigging into the ground instead of playing the low
notesjust as other notes. Try it ! Just practising the one
or theother extreme does not improve
anything.>___
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[Hornlist] Tuning a double horn(playing sharp)

2008-01-21 Thread Valerie WELLS

Hans, thank you for your comments.  However, I'm not sure I understand what you 
are trying to tell me.  Do you mean that when I work on low horn parts, I'm 
setting in the lower lip too deeply (Einsetzen?) pulling the lips apart too 
much and it is causing cramping?  Do you mean that I should be using the same 
basic embouchure "set up" for all my playing?  Please clarify across the pond & 
our language barriers as best you can.  Thank you.
Valerie  
 
< It means, that you cramp the one or the opposite way. Whynot playing all 
relaxed with less vertical pressure,mouthpiece set at the edge of the lower lip 
so it pulls thelip opening open enough ? You would soon find out that youplay 
more relaxed without getting sharp or flat. Gettingflat due to playing low 
parts ? Why ? Because you aredigging into the ground instead of playing the low 
notesjust as other notes. Try it ! Just practising the one or theother extreme 
does not improve anything.>___
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning a double horn(playing sharp)

2008-01-20 Thread hans
It means, that you cramp the one or the opposite way. Why
not playing all relaxed with less vertical pressure,
mouthpiece set at the edge of the lower lip so it pulls the
lip opening open enough ? You would soon find out that you
play more relaxed without getting sharp or flat. Getting
flat due to playing low parts ? Why ? Because you are
digging into the ground instead of playing the low notes
just as other notes. Try it ! Just practising the one or the
other extreme does not improve anything.

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Valerie WELLS
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 5:17 AM
To: horn1 list
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning a double horn(playing sharp)


Everytime I start to have trouble playing chronically sharp,
all I have to do to correct the problem is to spend an
appreciable amount of time working on low horn work, & I
mean VERY LOW horn work.  My favorite low horn part to honk
around on is Kerry Turner's Quartet # 1.  I can't play the
fourth part worth beans, but it sure is fun & always relaxes
my embouchure.  When I first started working on it, I spent
at least an hour a day on it.  After about five days of
that, I was so flat I was still below pitch will my tuning
slide pushed all the way in.
 
Valerie___
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[Hornlist] Tuning a double horn(playing sharp)

2008-01-20 Thread Valerie WELLS

Everytime I start to have trouble playing chronically sharp, all I have to do 
to correct the problem is to spend an appreciable amount of time working on low 
horn work, & I mean VERY LOW horn work.  My favorite low horn part to honk 
around on is Kerry Turner's Quartet # 1.  I can't play the fourth part worth 
beans, but it sure is fun & always relaxes my embouchure.  When I first started 
working on it, I spent at least an hour a day on it.  After about five days of 
that, I was so flat I was still below pitch will my tuning slide pushed all the 
way in.
 
Valerie___
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[Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-20 Thread msdawn


Tuning of a double horn

Yes, it is a Holton horn. Thank you for that information about what that slide
is. That water slide (with the symbol) was jammed way out when I first
acquiered the horn. After we finally got it out we saw that the slide must have
been dropped because the end of the one side was bent which had been why it was
jammed immovable to begin with.  Now it works. The slide is only a fraction of
an inch out past it's mark. When I first got the horn I noticed it was
difficult to tune the F side perfectly.  When we finally got that slide
unjammed and I got it back in it was obvious that the horn tuned to itself much
easier.  It was a relief to find out what the problem was.  Still, it can't be
totally in either.  Don't know why. I have checked it with tuners many times
and there seems to be the slightest off balance if it is in all the way. Maybe
it's just one of those funny things about the fact each horn is different.
Besides the fact there is never any water there I don't like to pull that slide
because it still is slightly out of round enough that it is a nuisance to pull
and put back in. So, it pretty much stays in place.

The hand position I mentioned was NOT how I play the horn. I was referring to
the fact that jamming the hand in all the way while trying to get the 1st
initial tuning of the slides into a reasonable position for the horn deadends
the sound and doesn't make tuning it any easier. We had one horn player that
even the director had to kindly remind her a few times that they were muffling
their sound with their hand position.

My suggestions were just for added help. I can't see where exact measurements
given would always work for every horn made even if it is the same model. There
are too many variables.

I do not have no trouble playing in tune with other instruments. If I am out I
adjust accordingly as best I can. Just a quote so that all don't think I'm just
assuming so. Once, while playing the same notes along up high with our lead
player on a particular passage, the conductor asked if I had even been playing.
Without hesitation our lead player avidly said yes.

Well, have to go visit with one of the grandkids.





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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-19 Thread GOR04003
First off, Amy,

I've had similar problems with playing very sharp.  A teacher finally managed 
to help me out.  I'll just pass on his (Steve Park with the Orchestra on Temple 
Square) advice and maybe it'll help you too.  He told me that I was 
overcompensating for everyone in the brass world telling me to not put pressure 
on my mouthpiece.  So he pushed all my slides in all the way so I could 
over-learn his correction.  After about two weeks, he let me pull them out a 
bit again.  But his advice for bringing down the pitch was to put a little more 
"weight" on the mouthpiece.  Not only did my pitch drop, but my tone became 
hugely richer!  Flexibility improved as well (not at first, but after those 
initial weeks).  Apparently, without that weight, I was pinching my lips 
together a bit too tight.  Putting more weight on the mouthpiece allowed me to 
relax the rest of my embouchure.  It balanced everything out.  Anyway, good 
luck!

As for tuning in general, it's such a relative term that it's difficult to 
discuss.  People on this list might enjoy reading Stuart Isakov's 
"Temperament".  It's a great book about the development of equal temperament on 
the piano, and it's certainly shaped my understanding of intonation, especially 
coupled with a knowledge of music theory.  

"In tune" depends on so many different variables: chord tone, ensemble, 
function, key, etc.  For example: I could sit perfectly on an A 440, but if I 
were anything but the tonic or maybe the fifth of a chord, I would probably be 
out of tune.  If I played an A 440 and my note was a leading tone, I'd be 
disgustingly out of tune.  Same if I were in a key signature with many sharps 
or flats.  There is no "absolute" in tune for a single pitch (as a tuner might 
lead some to believe).  It's all about being aware of your surroundings and the 
function of the note you are playing.  This is why music theory is so important 
for good musicianship (you can tell I'm a theory teacher ^_^).  

Finally, balance is essential.  I took an acoustics class and did an experiment 
with intonation.  Using a sound level meter and a tuner, I found that two horn 
players HAVE to play balanced or they CANNOT play in tune.  The waves interfere 
or something like that.  They also have to play in tune or no matter how hard 
they work, their sounds will cancel each other out.  Anyway, that's why if 
you're ever in a section with some jerk that thinks his part is most important 
and overplays everyone else, it's really difficult to play in tune with him (I 
just came from a section with two of those).  

Anyway, just food for thought, I guess.  And I haven't contributed to the 
discussions here for a while.  

Heather Barson
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[Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn-tension

2008-01-19 Thread John Dutton
Amy wrote:
That was a big help, because my prof tells me a lot that I DO have a problem
with tension, but he never mentioned anything about it affecting tuning.
Since my change in embouchure, I've felt that it takes a lot more effort to
play the high notes.  That's where the tension came from, trying to get my
range back.  I've been trying to work on letting the air flow freely, and
keep my shoulders and neck relaxed, but I find it difficult to even realize
I'm doing it while practicing on my own.  I do breathing exercises, try to
keep as relaxed as possible, but I don't think it's really doing much since
every week, I still get told about tension. I know pressure on my face isn't
a big issue, because we experimented with a spring loaded pressure device,
and I did pretty well on it. Any recommendations about how to work on this
on my own? Do you think playing on the knee, rather than off, would be any
help? 
--

Let me give you a for instance
A dear friend of mine is a great player.  He sounds good and has good
command of the instrument and his pitch is good.  His slides are pulled out
way too far because of upper body tension.  I've told him for years that if
he had six months where he could work it out we could fix this tension in
his neck and shoulders but he works too much and doesn't have the time.
About six months ago he was on a multi state bq5 tour and he ended up
needing to go to a massage therapist when he got back.  After the masseuse
got done with him, in order to play with anyone else he immediately had to
push his slides in to a spot I would call normal for a player of his
ability.  I hated to say "I told you so!" but I did anyway ;-)  It took him
about two weeks to shake of the massage and have to pull his slides out
again.  This last bit serves also to illustrate that it takes time for good
habits to replace bad ones (and two weeks wasn't enough for him)...and lots
of willpower.  Practice makes permanent.  Perfect practice makes potentially
perfect.  Then there is the bit about becoming comfortable with the new good
habits too.

If you have recently changed your embouchure you may need to work out your
range issues from a more remedial perspective rather than trying or
expecting to keep playing merrily along as before.   Playing on the knee
will not fix this issue as your posture is more likely to be correct if it
is the same for both standing and sitting.  Make sure your posture sitting
or standing is ergonomically correct so as not to add to the problem.
Proper hand position is of course necessary too but I think this is more of
a tension issue.  

What to do about it?  Take a weekly spa day.  Or push all your slides into a
more normal setting and turn your tuner on (one of the rare times I
recommend looking at a tuner).  Practice long tones blowing the note
"straight down the middle."  Don't lip the note high or low in the pocket.
Let the tension go in order to lower the pitch.  Consciously try to relax
your upper body and try to keep the embouchure as relaxed as possible.  I'm
not talking about pinky hook pressure.  I'm talking about tension in the
embouchure before the mouthpiece ever goes on the lips.  Also, while you
want to hold the horn with authority you don't want a death grip either.
You might try some yoga or taiji or sitting meditation to help focus the
mind and relax the body.  This tension thing is going to piss you off
royally until you figure out how to play with or without the tuner by
relaxing instead of pulling the slides.  Revel in the frustration because
you won't fix this issue until you work at it and it becomes a zen exercise.
I can't tell you more than that because I can't see/hear you play.  

Most importantly remember to work from your strengths through your
weaknesses and back to your strengths.  Never end a session on a bad note
unless you are in Bad Schplittendorf with Prof IMG or it is one of the 12
days of Clamsaa.  One good note becomes two becomes three becomes a strand
of pearls.

The Jack Attack!

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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-19 Thread Herbert Foster
No, the lips do not decouple the body from the horn. Consider that the lips 
interact with the sound wave reflected from the bell. They don't just buzz. In 
the same way, the lips interact with the resonances of the air cavities of the 
mouth, pharynx, etc. That is, there are pushes and pulls on the lips from both 
sides. What goes on on one side of the embouchure affects the other side. 
That's why the vowel you form affects the horn sound. Since my voice timbre is 
created by these resonances, and my voice sounds different from yours, so my 
horn sound differs.

Here's an experiment. Sing a note in a relaxed manner. Now tense just your 
shoulders. The sound changes. The same thing happens with the horn.

Herb Foster, research engineer

- Original Message 
From: Bill Gross <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Horn List 
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 8:36:12 AM
Subject: RE: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn 


I am curious about the contribution to the horn sound the person
 playing has
on it?  Assuming equal mastery of the instrument, what influence of the
physical structure of the players head has on final sound.  Beyond the
 lips,
the sinus cavities, etc. and connected to the horn.  Do the lips
(embouchure) decouple the rest of the body from the horn?

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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn-tension

2008-01-19 Thread akruegs629
That was a big help, because my prof tells me a lot that I DO have a problem 
with tension, but he never mentioned anything about it affecting tuning.  Since 
my change in embouchure, I've felt that it takes a lot more effort to play the 
high notes.  That's where the tension came from, trying to get my range back.  
I've been trying to work on letting the air flow freely, and keep my shoulders 
and neck relaxed, but I find it difficult to even realize I'm doing it while 
practicing on my own.  I do breathing exercises, try to keep as relaxed as 
possible, but I don't think it's really doing much since every week, I still 
get told about tension. I know pressure on my face isn't a big issue, because 
we experimented with a spring loaded pressure device, and I did pretty well on 
it. Any recommendations about how to work on this on my own? Do you think 
playing on the knee, rather than off, would be any help? 

Amy


 -- Original message --
From: "John Dutton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Amy wrote:
> Snip>  It's also amazing to me, because I tend to be sharp, and try and try
> to pull the pitch down in the higher register, but no amount of moving
> slides will get the horn in tune. But when my professor plays the same horn,
> he is almost always on the slightly flat side.  I couldn't get the horn that
> low no matter what I did. 
> 
> Speaking of that... snip>>  I have a Hoyer 7801, and I expect it to be on
> the sharp side, but it's ridiculously sharp in the upper register, and
> always has been, even after I completely flipped my embouchure around.  I
> pull my jaw down as far as I can before the note completely cracks, and it's
> still up there.  If I pull the slides any farther, the mid/low register will
> be flat.  I snip>>. Any suggestions so I'm not painfully out of tune all the
> time?
> --
> 
> Your symptoms describe someone who has excessive tension in the embouchure
> and possibly the upper chest and shoulders.  The mouthpiece is an isolating
> chamber and should be isolating loose fleshy lips in that isolating chamber.
> Everything you have described in your own playing points to this.  There is
> nothing wrong with your horn or your teacher wouldn't be able to play it in
> tune or low.  Eliminate the tension in your shoulders and most importantly
> eliminate the tension of your face and inside the mouthpiece and your pitch
> will improve dramatically.  Your teacher should be able to help-if he can't
> then either s/he isn't able to see it or you aren't hearing the message.
> Good luck.
> 
> The Jack Attack!
> 
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-19 Thread Bill Gross
I am curious about the contribution to the horn sound the person playing has
on it?  Assuming equal mastery of the instrument, what influence of the
physical structure of the players head has on final sound.  Beyond the lips,
the sinus cavities, etc. and connected to the horn.  Do the lips
(embouchure) decouple the rest of the body from the horn?

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[Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread John Dutton
Amy wrote:
Snip>  It's also amazing to me, because I tend to be sharp, and try and try
to pull the pitch down in the higher register, but no amount of moving
slides will get the horn in tune. But when my professor plays the same horn,
he is almost always on the slightly flat side.  I couldn't get the horn that
low no matter what I did. 

Speaking of that... snip>>  I have a Hoyer 7801, and I expect it to be on
the sharp side, but it's ridiculously sharp in the upper register, and
always has been, even after I completely flipped my embouchure around.  I
pull my jaw down as far as I can before the note completely cracks, and it's
still up there.  If I pull the slides any farther, the mid/low register will
be flat.  I snip>>. Any suggestions so I'm not painfully out of tune all the
time?
--

Your symptoms describe someone who has excessive tension in the embouchure
and possibly the upper chest and shoulders.  The mouthpiece is an isolating
chamber and should be isolating loose fleshy lips in that isolating chamber.
Everything you have described in your own playing points to this.  There is
nothing wrong with your horn or your teacher wouldn't be able to play it in
tune or low.  Eliminate the tension in your shoulders and most importantly
eliminate the tension of your face and inside the mouthpiece and your pitch
will improve dramatically.  Your teacher should be able to help-if he can't
then either s/he isn't able to see it or you aren't hearing the message.
Good luck.

The Jack Attack!

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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread Steve Haflich
   From: "Robert Dickow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

   All my tuning, if any, is with the main slide.

Whether or not a particular full double has a separate tuning slide
for the Bb branch, it is important to remember that the main tuning
slide that is shared between branches affects the Bb slide 4/3 times
the amount it affects the F side.  For very small tuning adjustments
this may not matter, but if the temperature or a particular ensemble
requires a large tuning adjustment, you should move the main slide
enough to bring the Bb side into tune and then adjust the F side slide
in the same direction by 1/3 that amount.

This is most necessary only if you have to play in extreme
temperatures.  If you ever have the misfortune to play in extreme heat
you may need to pull every slide proportionately.  If you have to move
the main slide 1.5 inches, you ought move the F tuning slide 1/2 inch,
the Bb 1st valve slide 1/6 inch, the F 1st valve slide about 2/9 inch,
etc. etc. etc.

This 1.5 inches motion in the slide is calculated for the 3 inches you
need to add to the Bb side when moving from 70 degrees F to 100
degrees F.  The slide has two legs, so moving it a certain distance
affects the length of the horn by double that amount.

The nice thing about playing in 100 degree heat -- perhaps the only
nice thing -- is that once you get everything in tune there will be
almost zero condensation and you won't have to mess further with the
slides for emptying.
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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread Steve Haflich
   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   
   That is also true.  It just throws me off a little bit, when I hear
   my horn so differently, when I'm used to hearing it for hours a day
   with my tone.  It's also amazing to me, because I tend to be sharp,
   and try and try to pull the pitch down in the higher register, but
   no amount of moving slides will get the horn in tune. But when my
   professor plays the same horn, he is almost always on the slightly
   flat side.  I couldn't get the horn that low no matter what I did.
   
   Speaking of that... Anyone have any suggestions?  I know there are
   different slides for the F and Bb, and they should be all
   proportionally pulled... But I have trouble figuring out which
   slide does what.  I have a Hoyer 7801, and I expect it to be on the
   sharp side, but it's ridiculously sharp in the upper register, and
   always has been, even after I completely flipped my embouchure
   around.  I pull my jaw down as far as I can before the note
   completely cracks, and it's still up there.  If I pull the slides
   any farther, the mid/low register will be flat.  I can't find a
   slide that tunes only the Bb side, they only do the F or both. Any
   suggestions so I'm not painfully out of tune all the time?

Take your right hand off your slides and put it back in the bell WHERE
IT BELONGS.

Your hand is probably too far in the bell, or too closed.  Using
_only_ the open F side to eliminate the variables of slides,
experiment to find a hand position where the horn is reasonably in
tune with itself.

Remember, you may want to tighten the hand position to narrow the
flare in the high range (it improves the resonance Q of the high
nharmonics) but you need to open up again in mid and low range.  The
flattening effect of the hand increases in the low range.

You might have your professor again play your horn over various ranges
and watch from behind what he does with his right hand.

Valves, their tuning slides, and all the other tuning slides on a
modern horn have almost nothing to do with the fundamentals of horn
playing.  They just get in the way of mastering the instrument itself.
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread akruegs629
That is also true.  It just throws me off a little bit, when I hear my horn so 
differently, when I'm used to hearing it for hours a day with my tone.  It's 
also amazing to me, because I tend to be sharp, and try and try to pull the 
pitch down in the higher register, but no amount of moving slides will get the 
horn in tune. But when my professor plays the same horn, he is almost always on 
the slightly flat side.  I couldn't get the horn that low no matter what I did. 

Speaking of that... Anyone have any suggestions?  I know there are different 
slides for the F and Bb, and they should be all proportionally pulled... But I 
have trouble figuring out which slide does what.  I have a Hoyer 7801, and I 
expect it to be on the sharp side, but it's ridiculously sharp in the upper 
register, and always has been, even after I completely flipped my embouchure 
around.  I pull my jaw down as far as I can before the note completely cracks, 
and it's still up there.  If I pull the slides any farther, the mid/low 
register will be flat.  I can't find a slide that tunes only the Bb side, they 
only do the F or both. Any suggestions so I'm not painfully out of tune all the 
time?

Amy


 -- Original message --
From: "Robert Dickow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> ...or amazing how different horns sound the same when played by the same
> person??!!
> 
> Wendell, remember when you had that gathering at the War Memorial Opera
> House in SF and tried out all those different horns for friends out in the
> hall? I heard only subtle differences in quality from horn to horn, but
> through them all, they all sounded like Wendell Rider.
> 
> Bob Dickow,
> Lionel Hampton School of Music 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> It seems amazing to me that the same horn, when played by two different
> people, can sound so different.
> 
> 
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread Robert Dickow
...or amazing how different horns sound the same when played by the same
person??!!

Wendell, remember when you had that gathering at the War Memorial Opera
House in SF and tried out all those different horns for friends out in the
hall? I heard only subtle differences in quality from horn to horn, but
through them all, they all sounded like Wendell Rider.

Bob Dickow,
Lionel Hampton School of Music 

-Original Message-

It seems amazing to me that the same horn, when played by two different
people, can sound so different.


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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread Robert Dickow
Jake's basically right, but I have many drain tubes permanently positioned
variously at different places on my MerkerMatic. After getting the valve
section tuned, after purchasing the horn, was important. But once set, I
don't think I've done much tuning or repositioning of them in many years.
All my tuning, if any, is with the main slide.

Ramblings:

This may seem like an odd admission, but the brass quintet that I've played
with for the past 24 years virtually never spends any time tuning. We just
start rehearsing. I think we do any adjustments while we hear each other
warming up, so a lot of it is unconscious I would say. 

The woodwind quintet I play with, on the other hand, is tuning up all the
time. Brass instruments don't have so many incompatibilities amongst
themselves.

Goofy anecdote: I once played a guest solo with a high school band in the
north Idaho region. At the concert, the band tuned and I carefully tuned up
with them before playing. But no sooner did the downbeat occur and the band
was back playing its usual 1/5 tone SHARP!!! I had a tough time that
evening.

Bob Dickow,
Lionel Hampton School of Music

-Original Message-----
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

Most horns are designed to be "in tune"  (whatever that is) with the 
tuning slides pulled out a bit.  

  The water slides 
stay all the way in.

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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread James B Ewalt
Most horns are designed to be "in tune"  (whatever that is) with the 
tuning slides pulled out a bit.  This gives some leeway both up and 
down to adjust to ensembles that may be slightly sharp or 
flat.  Remember, though, that all of the slides are not necessarily 
TUNING slides but may be just for emptying water.  The water slides 
stay all the way in.


Jake Ewalt


At 12:18 PM 1/17/2008, you wrote:

. . . . . . .


Now to my question. With a high class french horn I would expect that all
slides both on the Bb side and the F side would be matched to produce
perfect tuning, and not require any particular adjustments.


. . . . . . .

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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread Jonathan West
>
> The tuning recommendations by pulling out most of the slides in both Bb and
> F "circulation seem a bit complicated for a trumpet player, but I tend to
> understand that the french horn is a most other animal with a total tubing
> lengfh well over 12 feet.

There aren't that many double trumpets as far as I know. With the horn
there are more different lengths of tubing that can be put into the
air path. Each one of them needs to be individually tuned. Since the
adjustment of each affects the tuning of all notes that use that bit
of tubing, to a different degree depending on what other tubing is in
the air path, all tuning is going to be rather a compromise, and yes
it is more complex than on the trumpet.

>
> Now to my question. With a high class french horn I would expect that all
> slides both on the Bb side and the F side would be matched to produce
> perfect tuning, and not require any particular adjustments.

If all the slides were nominally perfectly in tune, nobody would ever
be able to sharpen a horn. Therefore, the horns are designed and
manufactured so that with the slides fully pushed in, the horn will be
somewhat sharp. You then pull the slides out a bit to get the horn
perfectly tuned (or as near to perfect as the inevitable compromises
will allow.)

Certainly, the better quality horns give you better tuning through
better design and manufacture. But some compromises remain simply as a
result of the laws of physics.

>
> I tend to understand , that  it ies outsida the possibilities to design a
> french horn , that does no need tuning.
>
> On the other hand you can and will make a lot of intonation with your
> embochure.

That is easier to do in the lower range than the upper range. In the
upper range, trying to adjust tuning with the embouchure carries a
high risk of flipping onto the wrong harmonic altogether. Anyway, the
better in tune your horn is without adjusting your embouchure, the
easier the horn is to play, and the more secure and confident you can
be that you will hit the right notes.

>
> I am sorry for bringing up these amateurish questions, but I want to know as
> much as possible in order to assist my grand son.

Ask away! I much prefer to see someone on the list who honestly wants
to learn about these things than someone who thinks thay already know
it all.

Regards
Jonathan West
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread hans
Horns are built to fit different environment & tuning, some
orchestras are higher some lower.

Pull the main tuning slide for some 12 - 15 mms, adjust the
concert F on the F-side by pulling the F-side tuning slide.
Adjust the top slides 1: 1,5 cms (=0,6"), 2: 1 cm (=,4") 3:
1,75 cms (= 0,7")
Adjust the lower B-flat slides the same way but all of them
about 2,5 mms shorter (=0,1" shorter).

This is the approximate way to tune a double. If the horn
has to play a higher pitch, adjust all slides accordingly,
but just a bit.

Do not fumble too much for the slides.


=

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Borje Lofblad
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 7:18 PM
To: Horn Music
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

Hi ,

Upon  previos questions regarding fingering and  tuning I
have received rather complete answers.

Nevertheless there are still some question marks.

The tuning recommendations by pulling out most of the slides
in both Bb and F "circulation seem a bit complicated for a
trumpet player, but I tend to understand that the french
horn is a most other animal with a total tubing lengfh well
over 12 feet.

Now to my question. With a high class french horn I would
expect that all slides both on the Bb side and the F side
would be matched to produce perfect tuning, and not require
any particular adjustments.

I tend to understand , that  it ies outsida the
possibilities to design a french horn , that does no need
tuning.

On the other hand you can and will make a lot of intonation
with your embochure.

I am sorry for bringing up these amateurish questions, but I
want to know as much as possible in order to assist my grand
son.

Borje


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de


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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread akruegs629
This has probably been brought up before, and might not help at all, but it's 
an observation of mine that no horn tunes the same, even of the same model.  It 
seems to depend more on the player.  A friend of mine has the same horn as I, 
but our slides look completely different.  Also, when my professor plays my 
horn to show me something, the tuning is wildly different than when I play.  It 
seems amazing to me that the same horn, when played by two different people, 
can sound so different.


 -- Original message --
From: "Steve Freides" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> All tunings are compromises of some sort.  The idea is just to find the one
> that works best for most circumstances.  I have never met a horn player who
> plays with all, or for that matter, any of the tuning slides all the way in,
> the position that might be considered the "factory default".
> 
> -S- 
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Borje Lofblad [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> > Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 1:18 PM
> > To: Horn Music
> > Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn
> > 
> > Hi ,
> > 
> > Upon  previos questions regarding fingering and  tuning I 
> > have received rather complete answers.
> > 
> > Nevertheless there are still some question marks.
> > 
> > The tuning recommendations by pulling out most of the slides 
> > in both Bb and F "circulation seem a bit complicated for a 
> > trumpet player, but I tend to understand that the french horn 
> > is a most other animal with a total tubing lengfh well over 12 feet.
> > 
> > Now to my question. With a high class french horn I would 
> > expect that all slides both on the Bb side and the F side 
> > would be matched to produce perfect tuning, and not require 
> > any particular adjustments.
> > 
> > I tend to understand , that  it ies outsida the possibilities 
> > to design a french horn , that does no need tuning.
> > 
> > On the other hand you can and will make a lot of intonation 
> > with your embochure.
> > 
> > I am sorry for bringing up these amateurish questions, but I 
> > want to know as much as possible in order to assist my grand son.
> > 
> > Borje
> > 
> > 
> > ___
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> > http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/steve%40fridays
> computer.com
> > 
> 
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread Steve Freides
All tunings are compromises of some sort.  The idea is just to find the one
that works best for most circumstances.  I have never met a horn player who
plays with all, or for that matter, any of the tuning slides all the way in,
the position that might be considered the "factory default".

-S- 

> -Original Message-
> From: Borje Lofblad [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 1:18 PM
> To: Horn Music
> Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn
> 
> Hi ,
> 
> Upon  previos questions regarding fingering and  tuning I 
> have received rather complete answers.
> 
> Nevertheless there are still some question marks.
> 
> The tuning recommendations by pulling out most of the slides 
> in both Bb and F "circulation seem a bit complicated for a 
> trumpet player, but I tend to understand that the french horn 
> is a most other animal with a total tubing lengfh well over 12 feet.
> 
> Now to my question. With a high class french horn I would 
> expect that all slides both on the Bb side and the F side 
> would be matched to produce perfect tuning, and not require 
> any particular adjustments.
> 
> I tend to understand , that  it ies outsida the possibilities 
> to design a french horn , that does no need tuning.
> 
> On the other hand you can and will make a lot of intonation 
> with your embochure.
> 
> I am sorry for bringing up these amateurish questions, but I 
> want to know as much as possible in order to assist my grand son.
> 
> Borje
> 
> 
> ___
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> http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/steve%40fridays
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> 

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[Hornlist] Tuning of a double horn

2008-01-18 Thread Borje Lofblad
Hi ,

Upon  previos questions regarding fingering and  tuning I have received
rather complete answers.

Nevertheless there are still some question marks.

The tuning recommendations by pulling out most of the slides in both Bb and
F "circulation seem a bit complicated for a trumpet player, but I tend to
understand that the french horn is a most other animal with a total tubing
lengfh well over 12 feet.

Now to my question. With a high class french horn I would expect that all
slides both on the Bb side and the F side would be matched to produce
perfect tuning, and not require any particular adjustments.

I tend to understand , that  it ies outsida the possibilities to design a
french horn , that does no need tuning.

On the other hand you can and will make a lot of intonation with your
embochure.

I am sorry for bringing up these amateurish questions, but I want to know as
much as possible in order to assist my grand son.

Borje


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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

2007-11-02 Thread corsolo

O rings work well also, and they are cheap.


-Original Message-
From: Valerie WELLS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Sent: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 2:51 pm
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)






I don't know what these are called & I can't find them anywhere I've 
looked.
 I'm trying to find a source to buy the cool little gadgets I saw on 
Gail

William's horn Saturday.  I didn't get a chance to ask her about them.
They're little metal bands, about 7 to 9 mm wide (less than 1/4 inch).  
They

attach to the tuning slide to mark it where you've tuned it.  They are
tightened in place with a small screw that is turned by hand like the 
fine

tuning screws on string instruments. 
 

Anyone know where I can find such a thing? 
 

Valerie 
 

(BTW, Gail was INCREDIBLE at the UPS Brassworks.) 
 


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Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com

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[Hornlist] Tuning slides from the bottom up.

2007-10-31 Thread Valerie WELLS
I used to grease my slides & shove them all the way in, then tune them from 
the top down by pulling out the slides.  This left exposed grease inside the 
slide, close to the valves that could easily migrate to the valves & gum 
them up.


This is what I do now to help keep grease from migrating into the valves:

When I clean my horn & remove all the old grease, I tune from the "bottom 
up."  That is, I put the grease about 1/2 inch from the end of each valve 
slide, then insert the slides just enough for them to be secure while I tune 
the slides by pushing them in just far enough to be "in tune."  This 
prevents pushing grease close to the valves.  I've done this the last couple 
of times I've greased my slides & I've had less trouble (actually NO 
trouble) with the valves getting gummed up w/ grease.


Valerie


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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

2007-10-30 Thread David Goldberg
I was taught to make a pencil mark on the slide along the rim of the 
outer tube to indicate how far to push the slide in.  If your slide 
doesn't move by itself, that seems as simple a solution as possible, and 
features not only the flexibility of pushing in farther when necessary, 
but also it keeps a memory of where the slide has been lately. If you 
dedicate a special pencil for only this job, it should last about 500 years.


David Goldberg
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

2007-10-30 Thread John Baumgart
I look at the slide before I pull it out and again after I reinsert it.
Even cheaper.

John Baumgart

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of Fred
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 4:52 PM
To: The Horn List
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

$11.95 each??  OUCH!!  I use plumbers "O" rings, 2 or 3 on each slide
so they don't move without intentionaround a nickel each at
hardware stores.

Fred


On 10/30/07, Jonell Lindholm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >= Original Message From The Horn List  =
> >I don't know what these are called & I can't find them anywhere I've
looked.
> >  I'm trying to find a source to buy the cool little gadgets I saw on
Gail
> >William's horn Saturday.  I didn't get a chance to ask her about them.
> >They're little metal bands, about 7 to 9 mm wide (less than 1/4 inch).
They
> >attach to the tuning slide to mark it where you've tuned it.  They are
> >tightened in place with a small screw that is turned by hand like the
fine
> >tuning screws on string instruments.
> >
> >Anyone know where I can find such a thing?
>
> They are listed on the Osmun web site. See
> http://store.osmun.com/browse.cfm/4,103.html
>
> --
>
> Jonell Lindholm
> Reisterstown, MD USA
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

2007-10-30 Thread Bill Gross
That's one of the reasons to grease the slides.  If you apply the right
amount you'll be able to see where you had them set. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Valerie WELLS
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 2:52 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

I don't know what these are called & I can't find them anywhere I've looked.

  I'm trying to find a source to buy the cool little gadgets I saw on Gail 
William's horn Saturday.  I didn't get a chance to ask her about them.  
They're little metal bands, about 7 to 9 mm wide (less than 1/4 inch).  They

attach to the tuning slide to mark it where you've tuned it.  They are 
tightened in place with a small screw that is turned by hand like the fine 
tuning screws on string instruments.

Anyone know where I can find such a thing?

Valerie

(BTW, Gail was INCREDIBLE at the UPS Brassworks.)


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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

2007-10-30 Thread brassartsunlim

The cheapest slide marker I have seen is the judicious use of a Sharpie to mark 
the slide.? 



Dave Weiner

Brass Arts Unlimited

-Original Message-
From: Fred <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Horn List 
Sent: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 5:52 pm
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)




$11.95 each??  OUCH!!  I use plumbers "O" rings, 2 or 3 on each slide
so they don't move without intentionaround a nickel each at
hardware stores.

Fred


On 10/30/07, Jonell Lindholm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >= Original Message From The Horn List  =
> >I don't know what these are called & I can't find them anywhere I've looked.
> >  I'm trying to find a source to buy the cool little gadgets I saw on Gail
> >William's horn Saturday.  I didn't get a chance to ask her about them.
> >They're little metal bands, about 7 to 9 mm wide (less than 1/4 inch).  They
> >attach to the tuning slide to mark it where you've tuned it.  They are
> >tightened in place with a small screw that is turned by hand like the fine
> >tuning screws on string instruments.
> >
> >Anyone know where I can find such a thing?
>
> They are listed on the Osmun web site. See
> http://store.osmun.com/browse.cfm/4,103.html
>
> --
>
> Jonell Lindholm
> Reisterstown, MD USA
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

2007-10-30 Thread Fred
$11.95 each??  OUCH!!  I use plumbers "O" rings, 2 or 3 on each slide
so they don't move without intentionaround a nickel each at
hardware stores.

Fred


On 10/30/07, Jonell Lindholm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >= Original Message From The Horn List  =
> >I don't know what these are called & I can't find them anywhere I've looked.
> >  I'm trying to find a source to buy the cool little gadgets I saw on Gail
> >William's horn Saturday.  I didn't get a chance to ask her about them.
> >They're little metal bands, about 7 to 9 mm wide (less than 1/4 inch).  They
> >attach to the tuning slide to mark it where you've tuned it.  They are
> >tightened in place with a small screw that is turned by hand like the fine
> >tuning screws on string instruments.
> >
> >Anyone know where I can find such a thing?
>
> They are listed on the Osmun web site. See
> http://store.osmun.com/browse.cfm/4,103.html
>
> --
>
> Jonell Lindholm
> Reisterstown, MD USA
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> ___
> post: horn@music.memphis.edu
> unsubscribe or set options at 
> http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/fbaucom%40gmail.com
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

2007-10-30 Thread Jonell Lindholm
>= Original Message From The Horn List  =
>I don't know what these are called & I can't find them anywhere I've looked.
>  I'm trying to find a source to buy the cool little gadgets I saw on Gail
>William's horn Saturday.  I didn't get a chance to ask her about them.
>They're little metal bands, about 7 to 9 mm wide (less than 1/4 inch).  They
>attach to the tuning slide to mark it where you've tuned it.  They are
>tightened in place with a small screw that is turned by hand like the fine
>tuning screws on string instruments.
>
>Anyone know where I can find such a thing?

They are listed on the Osmun web site. See 
http://store.osmun.com/browse.cfm/4,103.html

--

Jonell Lindholm
Reisterstown, MD USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

2007-10-30 Thread gators5
Valerie,

Alexander makes these little gadgets.  You can get them online at Ken Pope's 
web site http://poperepair.com/

Just look under the accessories section.  

I'm sure you can also get them at other sites (i.e. Osmun, etc.)

Rick

-- Original message -- 
From: "Valerie WELLS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> I don't know what these are called & I can't find them anywhere I've looked. 
> I'm trying to find a source to buy the cool little gadgets I saw on Gail 
> William's horn Saturday. I didn't get a chance to ask her about them. 
> They're little metal bands, about 7 to 9 mm wide (less than 1/4 inch). They 
> attach to the tuning slide to mark it where you've tuned it. They are 
> tightened in place with a small screw that is turned by hand like the fine 
> tuning screws on string instruments. 
> 
> Anyone know where I can find such a thing? 
> 
> Valerie 
> 
> (BTW, Gail was INCREDIBLE at the UPS Brassworks.) 
> 
> 
> ___ 
> post: horn@music.memphis.edu 
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

2007-10-30 Thread Barbara Rutledge
I do the same thing with braces rubber bands.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Valerie WELLS
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 3:52 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

I don't know what these are called & I can't find them anywhere I've looked.
  I'm trying to find a source to buy the cool little gadgets I saw on Gail
William's horn Saturday.  I didn't get a chance to ask her about them.
They're little metal bands, about 7 to 9 mm wide (less than 1/4 inch).  They
attach to the tuning slide to mark it where you've tuned it.  They are
tightened in place with a small screw that is turned by hand like the fine
tuning screws on string instruments.

Anyone know where I can find such a thing?

Valerie

(BTW, Gail was INCREDIBLE at the UPS Brassworks.)


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[Hornlist] Tuning slide markers (??)

2007-10-30 Thread Valerie WELLS
I don't know what these are called & I can't find them anywhere I've looked. 
 I'm trying to find a source to buy the cool little gadgets I saw on Gail 
William's horn Saturday.  I didn't get a chance to ask her about them.  
They're little metal bands, about 7 to 9 mm wide (less than 1/4 inch).  They 
attach to the tuning slide to mark it where you've tuned it.  They are 
tightened in place with a small screw that is turned by hand like the fine 
tuning screws on string instruments.


Anyone know where I can find such a thing?

Valerie

(BTW, Gail was INCREDIBLE at the UPS Brassworks.)


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Re: [Hornlist] tuning

2007-05-22 Thread Herbert Foster
While I basically agree with you, I will play Devil's Advocate (as if we didn't
have enough lawyers). The human being is the animal that can get used to
anything. As a result, many people find even temperament "right" and just
temperament "wrong." So these people's bodies accept only even tempered tuning,
probably at the expense of higher stress levels. I once quit a high level
community chorus partly because the director insisted on even tempered thirds.
I didn't care for the stress. She, by the way, had perfect pitch, which defined
for her where the pitch of a given note should be, regardless of the key.

Herb Foster
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Physically, we don't really have a choice about intonation.  Our ears
> create overtones based on whole number multiples of whatever frequency is
> being sounded.  We can't escape that.  This was understood as far back as the
> ancient Greeks.  That's why an in-tune interval is so satisfying.  Our bodies
> are not constructed to be able to accept tempered tuning!  
> 
> - Steve Mumford  
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[Hornlist] tuning

2007-05-21 Thread MUMFORDHornworks
Physically, we don't really have a choice about intonation.  Our ears 
create overtones based on whole number multiples of whatever frequency is being 
sounded.  We can't escape that.  This was understood as far back as the ancient 
Greeks.  That's why an in-tune interval is so satisfying.  Our bodies are not 
constructed to be able to accept tempered tuning!  

- Steve Mumford  
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Re: [Hornlist] tuning

2006-09-29 Thread Fred Baucom
Even aside from the tuning considerations, different horns sound better on 
certain notes using what might be considered unusual fingerings or sides of 
the horn - I am thinking of the g just above the staff...on my Paxman 70A, 
much better sound, substance, and even tuning on (low) f horn than b.


Fred

- Original Message - 
From: "John Dutton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Memphis Hornlist" 
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 7:02 PM
Subject: re: [Hornlist] tuning



Some further thoughts on the tuning issue.

Sometimes a particular horn requires a particular tuning solution.  For
instance, I have an Alexander 103 that I always play the c#2 on the f horn
1&2 especially in lyrical passages.  It is better in tune and makes for a
more legato line even switching to b horn on either side of the c#.  My
other Alex 103 and my Elkhart 8D's don't have this quirk.  Additionally, 
if

you have tuned your horn in a particular way for any length of time likely
you will require a period of adjustment to blow the notes down the center 
of
the slot (providing that you have made the horn more in tune with itself 
and
not less).  Finally, remember that one must utilize the double horn for 
the
tool that it is.  Once you have mastered using BOTH sides of the horn in 
ALL

registers you can pick and choose what works best for you.

The Jack Attack!

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re: [Hornlist] tuning

2006-09-29 Thread John Dutton
Some further thoughts on the tuning issue.

Sometimes a particular horn requires a particular tuning solution.  For
instance, I have an Alexander 103 that I always play the c#2 on the f horn
1&2 especially in lyrical passages.  It is better in tune and makes for a
more legato line even switching to b horn on either side of the c#.  My
other Alex 103 and my Elkhart 8D's don't have this quirk.  Additionally, if
you have tuned your horn in a particular way for any length of time likely
you will require a period of adjustment to blow the notes down the center of
the slot (providing that you have made the horn more in tune with itself and
not less).  Finally, remember that one must utilize the double horn for the
tool that it is.  Once you have mastered using BOTH sides of the horn in ALL
registers you can pick and choose what works best for you.

The Jack Attack!

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re: [Hornlist] tuning

2006-09-29 Thread John Dutton
Ron wrote:
However the g through c on the f horn don't "sound" as good as the same
notes on the Bb side (where I've been playing them in the past) 
Will those f horn notes get better with practice using them? 
**

I believe what you are noticing is the increased amount of overtones in the
f horn notes.  In that octave there are something on the order of 6-10 more
overtones per note when using the f horn vice the b horn.  What this means
is the sound is more complex utilizing the f horn and this is what you are
interpreting as not "sounding" as good.  It may not sound as clear to you
initially but that is just not being used to using the f horn in that range.

Caesar LaMonaca told me of a particular concert run he did back in the 60's
in Houston.  They were playing Brahms' Academic Festival Overture.  The
third horn at the time played primarily on the b horn in all registers.  The
conductor stopped rehearsal three or four times complaining that he couldn't
get the "sound" that he wanted for a particular passage in the Brahms.
Caesar leaned over and told the third horn to use the f horn for all the
notes in question.  The next time through the conductor's face lit up with a
smile.  Somehow the more complex sound gave the appropriate sound which I'm
sure Prof Pizka will agree with.  

The Jack Attack!

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[Hornlist] tuning

2006-09-28 Thread MARKSUERON
To get my horn as closely in tune as possible in the center of  pitches,  I 
must play second line g through c on the f side of a conn  8d.  Also third 
valve Bb horn on the fourth line d.
The third valve Bb horns sounds pretty good.  However the g through c  on the 
f horn don't
"sound" as good as the same notes on the Bb side (where I've been playing  
them in the past)
Will those f horn notes get better with practice using them?  Thanks  for 
your help.
 
Ron
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[Hornlist] tuning, solfege etc.

2006-02-26 Thread Daniel Canarutto

Simon Varnam wrote:

"T3" ?
Have I missed something?


It means Thumb-3rd valve [Thumb=horn in Bb]
I've seen this abbreviation used several times.

- - -

I wish also answer to Orlando Pandolfi. Up to a few years ago, 
serious music studies in Italy could only be done at the Conservatory 
or privately; now there is a variety of public and private schools. 
But in any case, if you want to get a Diploma, then the programs are 
standard, established by law: besides the main instrument class, you 
have compulsory courses in theory and solfege (3 years, including all 
seven clefs, spoken and sung solfege, musical dictation), harmony, 
history of music. These are just the basics, common to all kind of 
studies. So, if you are not willing to study all this stuff 
seriously, you know that you are not going to be a serious musician.


Daniel
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RE: [Hornlist] tuning

2006-02-21 Thread Hans.Pizka
There is no reason to finger the d2 (2nd line from top) on
the Bb-horn except it is within a technical passage. As the
d2 is the 9th available note on the naturalhorn scale, it is
a most lucid note & should be used. But too many players
play it on the bb-horn instead, quite stubborn, isn´t it ?
You are absolutely right with F0.


== 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Simon Varnam
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 12:51 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] tuning


> date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 22:12:20 +0100
> from: "Hans.Pizka" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> subject: RE: [Hornlist] Playing in Tune
>
> First, get your horns tuned & (most important) the valve
slides 
> adjusted accordingly.

Would you expand on this a bit please?
What's the best way to check my slides are correctly tuned?
And over the widest possible range?

What do you do about the flatness of a written D fingered
F1? I use F0 and a bit of hand.
Many of the players around me use (or are instructed to use)
B3 to avoid the sharpness of B12. Is this valid?

Simon

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[Hornlist] tuning

2006-02-21 Thread Simon Varnam



date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 22:12:20 +0100
from: "Hans.Pizka" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
subject: RE: [Hornlist] Playing in Tune

First, get your horns tuned & (most important) the valve
slides adjusted accordingly.


Would you expand on this a bit please?
What's the best way to check my slides are correctly tuned? And over 
the widest possible range?


What do you do about the flatness of a written D fingered F1? I use F0 
and a bit of hand.
Many of the players around me use (or are instructed to use) B3 to 
avoid the sharpness of B12. Is this valid?


Simon

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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

2005-09-05 Thread Hans
Last time I heard them live was 20 years ago here in Munich.
So it seems they have progressed.
===

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Aleks Ozolins
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 10:22 PM
To: The Horn List
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

Hans,

Last time I checked, Boston Symphony tuned significantly
higher than 440... 
Am I wrong?

Anyone?

Aleks Ozolins
NYC

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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

2005-09-04 Thread Aleks Ozolins

Hans,

Last time I checked, Boston Symphony tuned significantly higher than 440... 
Am I wrong?


Anyone?

Aleks Ozolins
NYC
- Original Message - 
From: "Hans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Horn List'" 
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 5:03 PM
Subject: RE: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"



But even in the US most real professional orchestras tune
higher than 440, except (as far as I know from listening
live) Boston Symphony, thus the darker sound. Just listen to
their recordings & compare with European Orchestras (Munich,
Berlin, Vienna, Milano, Paris, London, Stockholm, Helsinki,
Moscow) or Japan (NHK, NJPO). A=440 is obsolete in most
areas of the world. It has become reality after the years.
Travelling conductors contributed to that situation. They
also contributed to the unbearable uniformity of the
orchestras sound wise, with a few exceptions, the super
class orchestras, who kept their character more or less
struggling for it.

Amateur & semi professional orchestras in the regions &
their lower class conductors (I did not say inferior
musicians) know often everything much better & stuck with
the old tuning & the often dull sound.

===

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Loren
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 6:08 PM
To: 'The Horn List'
Subject: RE: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

US Orchestras tune to 440. Many orchestras shift to 442 by
the end of the concert though.

Loren
\@()
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(520) 403-6897
-Original Message-

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jim Price
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 2:55 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

Dear listers:

I've been out of the mainstream of orchestral playing for
several years and wonder whether orchestras in the U.S.
still use A=440 or have they been shifting to A=442.  Can
anyone clue me in?

James R. Price
2603 Fairmont  Rd.
Montgomery, AL 36111
334-281-2532


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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

2005-09-04 Thread Hans
But even in the US most real professional orchestras tune
higher than 440, except (as far as I know from listening
live) Boston Symphony, thus the darker sound. Just listen to
their recordings & compare with European Orchestras (Munich,
Berlin, Vienna, Milano, Paris, London, Stockholm, Helsinki,
Moscow) or Japan (NHK, NJPO). A=440 is obsolete in most
areas of the world. It has become reality after the years.
Travelling conductors contributed to that situation. They
also contributed to the unbearable uniformity of the
orchestras sound wise, with a few exceptions, the super
class orchestras, who kept their character more or less
struggling for it.

Amateur & semi professional orchestras in the regions &
their lower class conductors (I did not say inferior
musicians) know often everything much better & stuck with
the old tuning & the often dull sound.

===

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Loren
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 6:08 PM
To: 'The Horn List'
Subject: RE: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

US Orchestras tune to 440. Many orchestras shift to 442 by
the end of the concert though.

Loren
\@()
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(520) 403-6897
 -Original Message-

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jim Price
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 2:55 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

Dear listers:

I've been out of the mainstream of orchestral playing for
several years and wonder whether orchestras in the U.S.
still use A=440 or have they been shifting to A=442.  Can
anyone clue me in?

James R. Price
2603 Fairmont  Rd.
Montgomery, AL 36111
334-281-2532 


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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

2005-09-04 Thread Weshatch
 
In a message dated 9/4/2005 12:08:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

US  Orchestras tune to 440. Many orchestras shift to 442 by the end of  the
concert though.



Mary Gingrich was complaining to me once that when ever her husband, Dan,  
played one of her horns he left all the slides pushed in, because the CSO tunes 
 
to A=446.
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

2005-09-04 Thread Loren
US Orchestras tune to 440. Many orchestras shift to 442 by the end of the
concert though.

Loren
\@()
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(520) 403-6897
 -Original Message-

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim
Price
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 2:55 PM
To: horn@music.memphis.edu
Subject: [Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

Dear listers:

I've been out of the mainstream of orchestral playing for several 
years and wonder whether orchestras in the U.S. still use A=440 or 
have they been shifting to A=442.  Can anyone clue me in?

James R. Price
2603 Fairmont  Rd.
Montgomery, AL 36111
334-281-2532 


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[Hornlist] Tuning pitch of "A"

2005-09-03 Thread Jim Price

Dear listers:

I've been out of the mainstream of orchestral playing for several 
years and wonder whether orchestras in the U.S. still use A=440 or 
have they been shifting to A=442.  Can anyone clue me in?


James R. Price
2603 Fairmont  Rd.
Montgomery, AL 36111
334-281-2532 



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[Hornlist] Tuning - mathematician or physicist on board?

2004-11-27 Thread Jim Thompson
We've all tuned only to be told we're 'flat/sharp. So we take our tuning
slide and arbitrarily move it 1/4, 1/3, 1/2 inch in or out and call it
'good' but how much difference does this really make ALL OTHER THINGS BEING
EQUAL?  The same distance movement of a tuning slide will have a lesser
influence on the 'f' side compared to the 'Bb' side compared to the 'f' alto
side etc but in 'cent' or 'htz' what's the actual change per given distance
on each length of tubing? Is their a mathematician or physicist on board?
If so if you could show your 'work' as well so we can get an understanding
of the 'why' it would be appreciated. Thanks,  Jim

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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning slide locks

2004-11-13 Thread Loren Mayhew
The O rings are the cheapest solution, but they tend to move from where you
put them as the slide is replaced. A better, but more expensive solution, is
to purchase tuning ring locks from Osmun. He is out of stock at the moment,
but I think he will be getting some more soon. 

Loren Mayhew
\@()
Finke Horns
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(520) 403-6897


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Greg Campbell
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2004 1:13 PM
To: The Horn List
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Tuning slide locks

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Does anyone KNOW where you can get tuning slide locks?

If you just want something to keep your slides from pushing in too far, 
go to the hardware store and get some thin black rubber O-rings. Get 
ones that fit snugly over the legs of your tuning slides without sliding 
around *too* easily. Just slide them to the right spot.

If your slides fall out, get a competent repair person to expand the 
slides so they will fit correctly.

Greg

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[Hornlist] Tuning slide locks

2004-11-13 Thread J. Kosta
One consideration about the slide locks - especially for the main tuning
slide - is to verify that the horn will fit in its case with the slide(s)
pulled. 

With my horn & case, if I do not push-in the main tuning slide the horn
does not go into the case properly - but I don't use that slide for
emptying water anyway...

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY

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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning slide locks

2004-11-13 Thread Greg Campbell
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does anyone KNOW where you can get tuning slide locks?
If you just want something to keep your slides from pushing in too far, 
go to the hardware store and get some thin black rubber O-rings. Get 
ones that fit snugly over the legs of your tuning slides without sliding 
around *too* easily. Just slide them to the right spot.

If your slides fall out, get a competent repair person to expand the 
slides so they will fit correctly.

Greg
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[Hornlist] Tuning slide locks

2004-11-13 Thread jlmt
Does anyone KNOW where you can get tuning slide locks? Osmuns and Dillons
aren't carrying them as a rule. Dillon's told me they only come to them
from Alexander and only when an order of horns come in. I'm thinking there
must be another avenue to pursue getting these. Any solid suggestions?
thanks, Jim


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RE: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-05 Thread Jonathan West

> My new teacher said that it is not neccesary to pull
> out valve slides for new horn at all(only the main
> tuning slide should be adjusted). He said that i
> should adapt myself to horn, not the horn for myself..

You've had plenty of other people point out the idiocy of that advice, and
suggest how far the tuning slides should be pulled out. (But do check with
your teacher if that is *really* what he said.)

I'll just add an anecdote from a recent orchestral course I was on. One of
the other horn players who had started learning as an adult was playing with
all the valve slides pushed all the way in. Of course, almost everything he
played was horribly sharp. He was trying to compensate (not all that
successfully) and in doing so, was clenching his throat a lot when playing
in the higher register, which meant that not only was he playing out of
tune, but also his tone sounded strangled and he was cracking a lot of notes
through trying to lip them down.

I left it a day or two (I was new to that orchestra and didn't want to put
people's noses out of joint), and then quietly suggested that the tuning
slides were causing him problems, and described what I saw of his throat and
why it was happening. He had had no idea what he was doing wrong. With his
agreement, I adjusted the valve slides on both F & Bb sides to a better
position. I then suggested that he make a conscious effort to avoid
tightening his throat, and provide more support from the diaphragm
especially on higher notes. The improvement in tuning and reduction in
cracked notes was immediate & dramatic. The tone quality also improved
noticably right away, and got better still as the week went on, as he gained
in confidence that he could centre notes and still have them sound in tune.
He noticed the difference in tone as well.

Later, he asked for suggestions for exercises that would help him improve
further. I suggested long notes and slurring exercises pitched generally in
the upper half of the treble clef, played slowly enough to allow him to
concentrate on tone quality and the relaxation of his throat. He also said
he thought he would get some additional lessons, and wondered about getting
a new horn. He'd seen my Alex 103 and decided he liked the tone I made from
it. I suggested that he invest first in the lessons and get the best he
could out of his existing horn, and then think about an upgrade if he still
thought it necessary.

Regards
Jonathan West

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RE: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-04 Thread Hans
Benno, first we have to balance both sides of the horn. The next step is
it, to adapt it to the piano or strings or oboe by pulling out or
pushing in the main tuning slide. 

Many horns have just the main tuning slide before the entrance of the
lead pipe into the valve section & the other tuning slide for the F
extension. Alex 103 has the other short tuning slide at the large change
valve, but here the adaptation possibilities are very limited.
==


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Re: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-04 Thread Benno Heinemann
Hallo Hans,
Reading again what I wrote, I can see that it was easily misunderstood.
I meant only the first Main Tuning slide (the one straight after the 
Mouthpipe) pushed in all the way, the F and B Slides pulled out more to 
compensate, and all the othzer Valveslides in usual, sensible positions 
which anyone would approve of. I can see that this possibly wouldn't 
work on my Horn in the USA or England because the Bb Slide is quite 
short and allready rather far out.

I think leaving in the main Slide all the way improves the response of 
my Instrument, but perhaps this is really just the Superstition of 
which you write.

So in fact, I believe we agree, mainly.
Liebe Grüße,
Benno Heinemann

On Tuesday, May 4, 2004, at 12:45 AM, Hans Pizka wrote:
Hello Benno, verzapf doch nicht diesen Unsinn, bitte. The main tuning
slides need to be pulled out, as the horn is designed to fit different
environment. Temperature has a certain influence to tuning. Orchestra
tradition is different in the world. USA orchestras have a lower "a"
than European orchestras. And these orchestras have even a lower "a"
than in Vienna.
A pulled out slide CANNOT cut out some unevenness. In contrary it
produces some unevenness in the tube, - like a little step. Just 
imagine
a larger tube & a smaller tube inside. Think about the mechanical
function of two tubes, when one tube sticks inside the other & is 
pulled
out a bit.


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Re: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-03 Thread Benno Heinemann
Leaving all the Slides in is certainly not good Advice. I can think of 
one or two Exceptions of Professionals who play well who do this, but 
not for a student who may not have developed strength or good Ears to 
play all the Notes in tune in spite of it.

I like to push the main Slide all the way in, and then tune the F and B 
Slides down a little accordingly. I think it cuts out some unevenness 
just after the Leadpipe. Frank Lloyd told me this. (I believe this is 
not possible on some Horns where the F and B Horns are difficult to 
tune together)

Greetings,
Benno Heinemann

On Monday, May 3, 2004, at 08:16 PM, william bamberg wrote:
That advice is so bad that you should seek another teacher.  Having the
slides tuned by an experienced player, if you're not ready to do it, is
the proper first step to learning how to do it for yourself.  I play
several horns regularly and find that I need to tune each horn as close
as possible to a standard so that my tendency to lip notes is 
consistent
from horn to horn.  Although an electronic tuner doesn't really tune 
the
horn, certain patterns are easily remembered and set.  Often, the 
player
prefers my settings to theirs because they've never given it much 
thought.

Julius Pranevicius wrote on 5/3/2004, 10:03 AM:
My new teacher said that it is not neccesary to pull
out valve slides for new horn at all(only the main
tuning slide should be adjusted). He said that i
should adapt myself to horn, not the horn for myself..
I tuned my horn following the article in february's
Horn Call and for Bb horn there was about 1cm, and for
F - 1,5-2cm. Is it normal? And what do you think about
tuning the horn, adjusting valve slides? What methods
of tuning you know and preffer??
Thanks

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Re: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-03 Thread Paul Mansur
Hello!  Horn Call editor Bill Scharnberg has performed a great service 
to all the learning young hornists by reprinting the Stephen Seiffert 
article "On Tuning The Double Horn."   It is an excellent article and I 
have been advising its use by students for at least 30 years.  Follow 
it and you should be pleased with the results.  It will get the 
instruments into a reasonable pitch placement whereby you can then PLAY 
the horn in tune.  No, it won't be perfectly in tune, but it will be 
tuned to a practical temperament that the player can control, use 
his/her ear and fit it nicely with an ensemble.  (Note:  tuners provide 
a tempered scale that is simply equally out of tune for every note.  It 
is a guide only to a pitch center for A=440, for instance.  Use your 
ears and learn to listen.)

CORdially,   Mansur's Answers
On Monday, May 3, 2004, at 01:03 PM, Julius Pranevicius wrote:
My new teacher said that it is not neccesary to pull
out valve slides for new horn at all(only the main
tuning slide should be adjusted). He said that i
should adapt myself to horn, not the horn for myself..
I tuned my horn following the article in february's
Horn Call and for Bb horn there was about 1cm, and for
F - 1,5-2cm. Is it normal? And what do you think about
tuning the horn, adjusting valve slides? What methods
of tuning you know and preffer??
Thanks
	
		
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RE: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-03 Thread Hans Pizka
If you would read tzhe answers you receive here on the list, you would
know the right way to tune the horn.

I repeat it here, you have to use the best in tune pitches of both sides
to tune according to the "a" form the piano.

Play the (concert) f1, which is our c2 in the 2nd space from top or 3rd
space from below. Do not bend the tone by the lips or by the use of the
right hand in the bell. Listen to concert "a" & play "concert "f" - on
the Bb-side. Repeat that process on the F-side.

You get from F-side to Bb-side by pushing the thumb valve, if the horn
is set in F/Bb. Or you get from Bb-side to F-side by pushing the thumb
valve, if the horn is set as Bb/F.

The tuning works with the main tuning slides, which are:

Main tuning on the Bb-side: the main tuning slide is part of the first
branch of the horn. The other slide on the same side but to the right of
the main tuning slide is the tuning slide for the F-side.

If this is done, both sides are basically tuned.

Now tune the valve slides after the approximate rule: 1st valve pulled
out circa 10-12 mms, 2nd valve : 6 - 8 mms,  3rd valve : 12 mms. The
upper series of slides are for the F-horn, the lower series is for the
Bb-horn.  Here the slides should be pulled out about 1 - 2 mms less each
than the upper series.

If one of the valve combinations 12 or 23 produce too many missed notes,
try to adjust the slides a bit. It will work.

Tell your teacher, that he or she is a complete idiot, according to the
advise given to you.


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RE: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-03 Thread Hans Pizka
Hello Benno, verzapf doch nicht diesen Unsinn, bitte. The main tuning
slides need to be pulled out, as the horn is designed to fit different
environment. Temperature has a certain influence to tuning. Orchestra
tradition is different in the world. USA orchestras have a lower "a"
than European orchestras. And these orchestras have even a lower "a"
than in Vienna.

But the horns should fit all three regions, which means main tuning
slides be pushed in much for Vienna, pulled out much for  the use in the
USA. But all within the limitations of one or 1 1/2 centimeters (main
tuning slide).

A pulled out slide CANNOT cut out some unevenness. In contrary it
produces some unevenness in the tube, - like a little step. Just imagine
a larger tube & a smaller tube inside. Think about the mechanical
function of two tubes, when one tube sticks inside the other & is pulled
out a bit.

Ooops, I know about the German schooling quality. Natural science
classes . Basic common knowledge  please, please.  No wonder
people believe on superstition, reading in the palm, believing the stars
, etc. 


And the few "Professionals" playing with all slides in, are using a very
strong VIBRATO, where intonation means nothing anyway, as the pitch
shifts around permanently. I know these players very well.

Once in my master class, a student came to me with his horn, all slides
pushed in completely. I asked him: why. He responded that his idols did
the same. So I told him, that he had just one single choice:  he should
continue following his idol but never expecting a job as a horn player -
and never wasting my time again


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of Benno Heinemann
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 10:21 PM
To: The Horn List
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

Leaving all the Slides in is certainly not good Advice. I can think of 
one or two Exceptions of Professionals who play well who do this, but 
not for a student who may not have developed strength or good Ears to 
play all the Notes in tune in spite of it.

I like to push the main Slide all the way in, and then tune the F and B 
Slides down a little accordingly. I think it cuts out some unevenness 
just after the Leadpipe. Frank Lloyd told me this. (I believe this is 
not possible on some Horns where the F and B Horns are difficult to 
tune together)

Greetings,

Benno Heinemann



On Monday, May 3, 2004, at 08:16 PM, william bamberg wrote:

> That advice is so bad that you should seek another teacher.  Having
the
> slides tuned by an experienced player, if you're not ready to do it,
is
> the proper first step to learning how to do it for yourself.  I play
> several horns regularly and find that I need to tune each horn as
close
> as possible to a standard so that my tendency to lip notes is 
> consistent
> from horn to horn.  Although an electronic tuner doesn't really tune 
> the
> horn, certain patterns are easily remembered and set.  Often, the 
> player
> prefers my settings to theirs because they've never given it much 
> thought.
>
> Julius Pranevicius wrote on 5/3/2004, 10:03 AM:
>
>> My new teacher said that it is not neccesary to pull
>> out valve slides for new horn at all(only the main
>> tuning slide should be adjusted). He said that i
>> should adapt myself to horn, not the horn for myself..
>>
>> I tuned my horn following the article in february's
>> Horn Call and for Bb horn there was about 1cm, and for
>> F - 1,5-2cm. Is it normal? And what do you think about
>> tuning the horn, adjusting valve slides? What methods
>> of tuning you know and preffer??
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> __
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>
>
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Re: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-03 Thread YATESLAWRENCE
In a message dated 03/05/2004 19:17:21 GMT Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My new  teacher said that it is not neccesary to pull
> out valve slides for new  horn at all(only the main
> tuning slide should be adjusted). He said  that i
> should adapt myself to horn, not the horn for  myself..

That  advice is so bad that you should seek another  teacher. 

If that really is the advice that has been given then I would agree,  but I 
am always careful to be sure that the teacher has been correctly quoted -  If I 
had said half the things claimed of me by pupils I would deserve to be  
flogged through the streets of Manchester with a saxophone round my neck (For  
example - "Mr Yates says that if I play a trumpet all my teeth will fall  out".)
All the best,
Lawrence
"þaes  ofereode - þisses swa  maeg"

http://lawrenceyates.co.uk



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Re: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-03 Thread Fred Baucom
Amen!  The teacher can't be very experienced to have given that advice.  A good place 
to start when learning how to tune your horn is the Farkas book.
 
Fred


william bamberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
That advice is so bad that you should seek another teacher. Having the 
slides tuned by an experienced player, if you're not ready to do it, is 
the proper first step to learning how to do it for yourself. I play 
several horns regularly and find that I need to tune each horn as close 
as possible to a standard so that my tendency to lip notes is consistent 
from horn to horn. Although an electronic tuner doesn't really tune the 
horn, certain patterns are easily remembered and set. Often, the player 
prefers my settings to theirs because they've never given it much thought.

Julius Pranevicius wrote on 5/3/2004, 10:03 AM:

> My new teacher said that it is not neccesary to pull
> out valve slides for new horn at all(only the main
> tuning slide should be adjusted). He said that i
> should adapt myself to horn, not the horn for myself..
>
> I tuned my horn following the article in february's
> Horn Call and for Bb horn there was about 1cm, and for
> F - 1,5-2cm. Is it normal? And what do you think about
> tuning the horn, adjusting valve slides? What methods
> of tuning you know and preffer??
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
> __
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Re: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-03 Thread william bamberg
That advice is so bad that you should seek another teacher.  Having the 
slides tuned by an experienced player, if you're not ready to do it, is 
the proper first step to learning how to do it for yourself.  I play 
several horns regularly and find that I need to tune each horn as close 
as possible to a standard so that my tendency to lip notes is consistent 
from horn to horn.  Although an electronic tuner doesn't really tune the 
horn, certain patterns are easily remembered and set.  Often, the player 
prefers my settings to theirs because they've never given it much thought.

Julius Pranevicius wrote on 5/3/2004, 10:03 AM:

 > My new teacher said that it is not neccesary to pull
 > out valve slides for new horn at all(only the main
 > tuning slide should be adjusted). He said that i
 > should adapt myself to horn, not the horn for myself..
 >
 > I tuned my horn following the article in february's
 > Horn Call and for Bb horn there was about 1cm, and for
 > F - 1,5-2cm. Is it normal? And what do you think about
 > tuning the horn, adjusting valve slides? What methods
 > of tuning you know and preffer??
 >
 > Thanks
 >
 >
 >
 >
 > __
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 > Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs
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 >


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RE: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-03 Thread Pandolfi, Orlando
Two points here:  First, there is no textbook measurement.  Tuning differs not only 
player to player, horn to horn, but often, what piece you are playing.  Valve 
combinations should not be completely set, as many intonation issues, especially when 
playing in a section, can be rectified with matching valve combinations.  It also 
depends on how in tune each horn (Bb or F)is in different ranges.  You theoretically 
should be able to tune your written first space F both open Bb side and first valve F 
side.  That is a good start.  If you have no separate Bb tuning slide, tune the open F 
(Bb side) with the main tuning slide, and use the valve slide to match the first valve 
F on the f side.  Try as best you can to line up the third space C on both horns by 
using the main F tuning slide (playing around with the first valve F slide to keep the 
F's in tune) The rest of it should be done by ear.  Be very careful relying on a tuner 
as there is a difference between tempered and just intonation.  Orchestra conductors 
make a huge mistake by re-taking an "A" when there are intonation problems in the 
brass.  Pitch should be determined first and foremost by the key of the piece you are 
playing.

Stay flexible, and make sure you play a horn that will move with you when you need to.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf
Of Julius Pranevicius
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 1:03 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Hornlist] tuning the horn


My new teacher said that it is not neccesary to pull
out valve slides for new horn at all(only the main
tuning slide should be adjusted). He said that i
should adapt myself to horn, not the horn for myself..

I tuned my horn following the article in february's
Horn Call and for Bb horn there was about 1cm, and for
F - 1,5-2cm. Is it normal? And what do you think about
tuning the horn, adjusting valve slides? What methods
of tuning you know and preffer??

Thanks




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Re: [Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-03 Thread Julius Pranevicius

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> What typw horn do you have?


i have Yamaha 667VS




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[Hornlist] tuning the horn

2004-05-03 Thread Julius Pranevicius
My new teacher said that it is not neccesary to pull
out valve slides for new horn at all(only the main
tuning slide should be adjusted). He said that i
should adapt myself to horn, not the horn for myself..

I tuned my horn following the article in february's
Horn Call and for Bb horn there was about 1cm, and for
F - 1,5-2cm. Is it normal? And what do you think about
tuning the horn, adjusting valve slides? What methods
of tuning you know and preffer??

Thanks




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Re: RE:[Hornlist] tuning

2003-11-16 Thread Herbert Foster
No, that's an order of magnitude smaller.

Herb Foster
--- Robert Dickow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Herb,
> 
> Did you correct for expansion of the horn itself at higher temperatures?
> 
> Bob Dickow
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Herbert Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "The Horn List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 9:28 AM
> Subject: RE:[Hornlist] tuning
> 
> 
> > I had to pull the slide out because of the laws of physics, not my
> emouchure.
> > Increasing the temperature from 40 deg F to 100 deg F (4 deg C to 33 deg
> C)
> > increases the speed of sound by 5%. On a 9 foot horn (Bb horn) that's 6
> inches,
> > or a slide pull of 3 inches (7.5 cm). Another 1 inch (2.5 cm) is required
> on
> > the F tuning slide. I don't know about your 8D, but mine couldn't handle
> that.
> > And outside temperatures vary by more than that. If you only have to move
> the
> > slide 1 cm, you are also correcting with your hand and embouchure.
> >
> > The speed of sound varies as the square root of the absolute temperature.
> To
> > get the absolute temperature, add 273 to degrees C or add 460 to degrees
> F.
> 
> 
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Re: RE:[Hornlist] tuning

2003-11-15 Thread Robert Dickow
Herb,

Did you correct for expansion of the horn itself at higher temperatures?

Bob Dickow

- Original Message - 
From: "Herbert Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Horn List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 9:28 AM
Subject: RE:[Hornlist] tuning


> I had to pull the slide out because of the laws of physics, not my
emouchure.
> Increasing the temperature from 40 deg F to 100 deg F (4 deg C to 33 deg
C)
> increases the speed of sound by 5%. On a 9 foot horn (Bb horn) that's 6
inches,
> or a slide pull of 3 inches (7.5 cm). Another 1 inch (2.5 cm) is required
on
> the F tuning slide. I don't know about your 8D, but mine couldn't handle
that.
> And outside temperatures vary by more than that. If you only have to move
the
> slide 1 cm, you are also correcting with your hand and embouchure.
>
> The speed of sound varies as the square root of the absolute temperature.
To
> get the absolute temperature, add 273 to degrees C or add 460 to degrees
F.


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RE:[Hornlist] tuning

2003-11-15 Thread Herbert Foster
I had to pull the slide out because of the laws of physics, not my emouchure.
Increasing the temperature from 40 deg F to 100 deg F (4 deg C to 33 deg C)
increases the speed of sound by 5%. On a 9 foot horn (Bb horn) that's 6 inches,
or a slide pull of 3 inches (7.5 cm). Another 1 inch (2.5 cm) is required on
the F tuning slide. I don't know about your 8D, but mine couldn't handle that.
And outside temperatures vary by more than that. If you only have to move the
slide 1 cm, you are also correcting with your hand and embouchure.

The speed of sound varies as the square root of the absolute temperature. To
get the absolute temperature, add 273 to degrees C or add 460 to degrees F.

Herb Foster
--- John Dutton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hans wrote:
> If you had to pull the slide out more than that, I would check the
> embouchure, if you played with too stressy embouchure, which causes such
> pitch problems. Were you playing with more relaxed embouchure, you would
> avoid this kind of problems better.
> 
> Well, exposure to sunshine during the day would also affect the face &
> lip muscles, even before you ever begin to warm up for the performance.
> So I would recommend for the next such occasion, to avoid being exposed
> to the sun before the performance. A similar effect counts during winter
> time.
> 
> *
> I completely agree that someone who has the crooks pulled excessively is
> probably playing with a tense face.  People are often amazed at how
> little the crooks need to be pulled if  the embouchure is relaxed.  Not
> to start the whole "how we tune" thread again, I can't count the times I
> have had a student go through a process to tune the horn to itself  and
> then return the following week with the slides all willy nilly.  Of
> course they forgot how to breathe and use their air properly over that
> same week too.  Coincidence?  I think not.  
> 
> When I was in the Marines we played outside frequently-most of the time
> on the march.  It is important to heed Hans' warning regarding sun
> exposure.  A chapstick with some sunblock  was a necessity in southern
> California (and a good brief flexibility warm up/down).
> 
> I know Herb's question was directed at 8d's, but just as my two 8d's
> play different and sit pitchwise in different tendencies (1959 & 1969)
> my two Alexanders have similar pitch direction (approx 197? & 1991).
> The older horns in both catagories naturaly sit at a lower pitch than
> the newer models of same brand (Cabbage?).  Of course this discussion is
> only an amusement as the bottom line remains-play in tune and sound good
> with whatever equipment is in your hands at the time.
> 
> The Jack Attack!
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> ___
> post: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> set your options at
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Re: RE:[Hornlist] tuning

2003-11-14 Thread skirshner
Actually I thought it was cute.  But I didn't get the vitamin E and
Schumann.  Nu?  Except possibly the concertstuch--meaning concert stab, and
vitamin E to heal the wounds of the high Es.  Is that it?

Nevermore, and before,

S
- Original Message - 
From: "David Goldberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Horn List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 5:43 PM
Subject: RE:[Hornlist] tuning


> On Fri, 14 Nov 2003, John Dutton wrote:
>
> > So I would recommend for the next such occasion, to avoid being exposed
> > to the sun before the performance.
>
> It is known that exposure to sunlight causes the body to produce vitamin
> D.  Maybe that will solve the problem of hitting the Haydn high D that
> came up recently.
>
> And vitamin E for Schumann?
>
>
> {  David Goldberg:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  }
> { Math Dept, Washtenaw Community College }
> { Ann Arbor Michigan }
>
>
> ___
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Re: RE:[Hornlist] tuning

2003-11-14 Thread skirshner
I, of course, would recommend staying out of the Sun to avoid sunstroke.

S
- Original Message - 
From: "David Goldberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Horn List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 5:43 PM
Subject: RE:[Hornlist] tuning


> On Fri, 14 Nov 2003, John Dutton wrote:
>
> > So I would recommend for the next such occasion, to avoid being exposed
> > to the sun before the performance.
>
> It is known that exposure to sunlight causes the body to produce vitamin
> D.  Maybe that will solve the problem of hitting the Haydn high D that
> came up recently.
>
> And vitamin E for Schumann?
>
>
> {  David Goldberg:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  }
> { Math Dept, Washtenaw Community College }
> { Ann Arbor Michigan }
>
>
> ___
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> set your options at
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RE:[Hornlist] tuning

2003-11-14 Thread David Goldberg
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003, John Dutton wrote:

> So I would recommend for the next such occasion, to avoid being exposed
> to the sun before the performance.

It is known that exposure to sunlight causes the body to produce vitamin
D.  Maybe that will solve the problem of hitting the Haydn high D that
came up recently.

And vitamin E for Schumann?


{  David Goldberg:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  }
{ Math Dept, Washtenaw Community College }
 { Ann Arbor Michigan }


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RE:[Hornlist] tuning

2003-11-14 Thread John Dutton
Hans wrote:
If you had to pull the slide out more than that, I would check the
embouchure, if you played with too stressy embouchure, which causes such
pitch problems. Were you playing with more relaxed embouchure, you would
avoid this kind of problems better.

Well, exposure to sunshine during the day would also affect the face &
lip muscles, even before you ever begin to warm up for the performance.
So I would recommend for the next such occasion, to avoid being exposed
to the sun before the performance. A similar effect counts during winter
time.

*
I completely agree that someone who has the crooks pulled excessively is
probably playing with a tense face.  People are often amazed at how
little the crooks need to be pulled if  the embouchure is relaxed.  Not
to start the whole "how we tune" thread again, I can't count the times I
have had a student go through a process to tune the horn to itself  and
then return the following week with the slides all willy nilly.  Of
course they forgot how to breathe and use their air properly over that
same week too.  Coincidence?  I think not.  

When I was in the Marines we played outside frequently-most of the time
on the march.  It is important to heed Hans' warning regarding sun
exposure.  A chapstick with some sunblock  was a necessity in southern
California (and a good brief flexibility warm up/down).

I know Herb's question was directed at 8d's, but just as my two 8d's
play different and sit pitchwise in different tendencies (1959 & 1969)
my two Alexanders have similar pitch direction (approx 197? & 1991).
The older horns in both catagories naturaly sit at a lower pitch than
the newer models of same brand (Cabbage?).  Of course this discussion is
only an amusement as the bottom line remains-play in tune and sound good
with whatever equipment is in your hands at the time.

The Jack Attack!
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[Hornlist] Tuning - the real story

2003-11-12 Thread HornCabbage
Paxmaha wrote

The history of standard tuning is a long and complex one, more so than 
one would think at first glance.  There are actual histories of tuning and 
temperament, quite specialized reading, but not all that dull, surprisingly.  I 
don't know that it was the Versailles treaty, but there was definitely an 
international agreement that standardized A=440hz as standard.  For several various 
reasons, both traditional and contemporary, pitch has almost uniformly risen to 
442, then 443, and today it can be as high as A=446 in some orchestras.  
Higher string tensions on modern violins, the desire for more overall "brightness" 
in the tone, are all supporting reasons for the rise in pitch.  
 
***
According to a secret memo recently leaked to the Washington Post, the U. S. 
Government has decided to withdraw from the Versailles Tuning Treaty, thus 
privatizing concert pitch in this country.  According to Anthony Werkmeister VI, 
the Secretary of the Department of Intonation, the government's heavy-handed 
control of tuning under the previous administration has lead to a dangerous 
situation which can only be remedied by a restoration of pitch to market forces.  
Whether this decision will reduce the number of fires that have been plaguing 
US orchestras during the last several years, as Werkmeister claims, remains 
to be seen.

Gotta go,
Cabbage
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[Hornlist] tuning

2003-11-12 Thread David Jewell
This  is a double post, so please ignore the redundancy...
The history of standard tuning is a long and complex one, more so than one would 
think at first glance.  There are actual histories of tuning and temperament, quite 
specialized reading, but not all that dull, surprisingly.  I don't know that it was 
the Versailles treaty, but there was definitely an international agreement that 
standardized A=440hz as standard.  For several various reasons, both traditional and 
contemporary, pitch has almost uniformly risen to 442, then 443, and today it can be 
as high as A=446 in some orchestras.  Higher string tensions on modern violins, the 
desire for more overall "brightness" in the tone, are all supporting reasons for the 
rise in pitch.  
 To digress just a little... My personal thoughts are mixed, I believe that things 
get subtly more difficult for the winds as pitch rises.  Also, and this is just a 
personal opinion, the ability of an orchestra to have a "signature" sound and to 
maintain that quality is diminished as well.  When one listens to a period instrument 
ensemble that uses the old pitch of A=435 or so, one can start to hear various 
differences in pieces in different keys. Much like the old concepts of temperament 
that were espoused for each mode or key center. It may indeed be only a psychological 
quirk of mine, (I do have an obsession with renaissance and baroque period 
performances, think Palestrina, Gabrieli, Schuetz, and the like,) but I find it 
increasingly hard to feel or hear much that distinguishes one recording from another, 
insofar as timbre and unique tone quality is considered. Vienna of course one can tell 
from the brass and horn playing, but try doing a blind listening ID of Tschaik
 ovsky's
 1812 as done by the Berlin Philharmonic, London Symphony, and the Boston Symphony.  
It is getting harder and harder to do so. 
So, although it is a current trend in modern musical life, I am on the side of A=440 
as a general maximum, and certainly don't see where it would be a bad thing to try 
things a little bit lower, especiall when doing the high horn parts in Haydn and Bach. 
Paxmaha


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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning question

2003-08-04 Thread Loren Mayhew
There are some thoughts on the subject:
1. If you are playing a soli, either in unison or harmony with another
instrument(s), focus on playing the soli in tune and ignore the rest of the
ensemble if it is out of tune.
2. Speak with the player of the grossly out of tune note(s) during break to
see if you can fix the intonation problems together. If this doesn't work,
speak to your section leader or your conductor as appropriate about ways to
approach a solution.
3. When playing unison or chords with another hornist or instrumentalist,
and the intonation is so out of whack that you can't find each other then
consider opting to not play your part rather than have it sound offal. Later
revert to step 2.
4. When an intonation problem develops; try to make sure your intonation is
correct before working out the problem with others.
5. If the individual out of tune happens to be your section leader, well you
may just have to match the leader; maybe later you can tactfully work out
the problem privately if you have sufficient rapport.
6. Whatever you do, the idea is to make the music sound the best your group
is capable of; it is not to start a war over who is right. Once a war is
started nothing is right anymore.

Comments?

Loren Mayhew
\@()
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(520) 403-6897 

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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning question

2003-08-04 Thread Herbert Foster
Is that an advantage or disadvantage when the orchestra is in tune with itself,
but not with your learned pitch? I assume that perfect pitch is even tempered
(showing my ignorance here). If so, how do you handle tuning to a chord, e.g.
the third, which is 13 cents flat?

Herb Foster
--- Lanetra Carther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I can't really give advice about tuning to the orchestra, because I know 
> first hand that the orchestra pitch can be horribly out of tune.  I have 
> perfect pitch, so I have an advantage in that area.
> 
> 

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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning question

2003-08-04 Thread Dave Tuttle
It isn't for tuning the orchestra to the horns???

- Original Message - 
From: "Loren Mayhew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'The Horn List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 8:49 AM
Subject: RE: [Hornlist] Tuning question


>I thought the whole purpose of "tuning the orchestra" was to tune the
> oboe to the orchestra! :-)
>
> Loren Mayhew
> \@()
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> (520) 403-6897
>
>
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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning question

2003-08-04 Thread Loren Mayhew
   I thought the whole purpose of "tuning the orchestra" was to tune the
oboe to the orchestra! :-)

Loren Mayhew
\@()
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(520) 403-6897 


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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning question

2003-08-03 Thread Lanetra Carther
I can't really give advice about tuning to the orchestra, because I know 
first hand that the orchestra pitch can be horribly out of tune.  I have 
perfect pitch, so I have an advantage in that area.


From: Anne & Larry Brunelle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: The Horn List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Horn List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Tuning question
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 16:13:48 -0500
What I used to do with pretty good success was to
match the offender's pitch and then start "pulling"
to the correct pitch.  Very many people will come
right along with you, apparently without even
noticing that they're doing so.  This often even
works with those sitting above you.
And some won't.  Especially if they're invincibly flat.
Can't have everything.
I also think I remember that if the first trumpet and
the first horn agree on a consistent pitch and are
firm about it (and not flat), the orchestra as a whole
will tend to "believe" that pitch better than the oboe's
(especially if he IS flat or inconsistent).
It also helps if the individual sections (at least the
HORN section) think tuning together BEFORE a rehearsal
is a good idea.  FWIW, most of the time, when *I* am
irritated by an intonation problem, so are the others
involved, and would be happy to get rid of those beats.
It goes without saying (or should) that we are trying
to make the pitch BETTER (closer to the orchestra's
standard, whether 440, 443, whatever).
Larry Brunelle

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Here's a serious question:  I'd be interested in hearing other
> people's survival techniques when the pitch in the orchestra is
> terrible.  In other words, how to keep yourself sounding as good as
> possible while everyone around you is trying to rip the mouthpiece
> right off your face by playing out of tune, half the orchestra sharp,
> the other half flat. Well, ok let's call that the worst case
> scenario.  How about if the pitch is not that bad, but maybe one
> person in the group is off enough that you can't really go with them
> but you have some important stuff to play with them? Let's assume for
> the sake of the discussion, that the situation can't be changed
> through talking to the other players involved and that your pitch is,
>  of course, perfect - it's those other numbskulls causing all the
> trouble.  I'm interested in what can be done while actually playing
> to keep focused and to keep from getting thrown off by bad pitch.
> Whaddya say?  - Steve Mumford


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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning question

2003-08-03 Thread Chris Tedesco
That sounds like my 2nd horn!  

But seriously, this is the exact scenario of my wind ensemble.  When it comes
to tuning across the group, I try to tune to those who I know who play well in
tune.  That is, I know our first flute has good pitch, but our piccolo is less
capable.  Let's say I double or harmonize a part with an awful saxophone and we
do NOT match.   I will listen for the other members of the chord for reference.
 It helps to sort of isolate that saxophonists pitch from the rest of us,
bringing their bad intonation out(hopefully to the ear of the conductor) or it
makes the saxophonist notice his own intonation and correct it him/herself.  

I can think of one incident where I was playing the third of the chord with
other instruments, and it was too high, throwing the chord out of tune.  I
lowered my pitch to bring it "intune" with the chord, but out of tune with the
ensemble.  He noticed the horrible gnashing sound and the first thing he said
was "the third of the chord is too high"

Having said that, I am usually more suspect my own intonation than others, but
on rare occasions my ear works well and I am the "correct" one.

Chris


-- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Here's a serious question:  I'd be interested in hearing other people's 
> survival techniques when the pitch in the orchestra is terrible.  In other 
> words, how to keep yourself sounding as good as possible while everyone
> around you 
> is trying to rip the mouthpiece right off your face by playing out of tune, 
> half the orchestra sharp, the other half flat.
> Well, ok let's call that the worst case scenario.  How about if the pitch
> 
> is not that bad, but maybe one person in the group is off enough that you 
> can't really go with them but you have some important stuff to play with
> them?
> Let's assume for the sake of the discussion, that the situation can't be 
> changed through talking to the other players involved and that your pitch is,
> 
> of course, perfect - it's those other numbskulls causing all the trouble. 
> I'm 
> interested in what can be done while actually playing to keep focused and to 
> keep from getting thrown off by bad pitch.
> Whaddya say?  - Steve Mumford
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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning question

2003-08-03 Thread Anne & Larry Brunelle
What I used to do with pretty good success was to
match the offender's pitch and then start "pulling"
to the correct pitch.  Very many people will come
right along with you, apparently without even
noticing that they're doing so.  This often even
works with those sitting above you.
And some won't.  Especially if they're invincibly flat.
Can't have everything.
I also think I remember that if the first trumpet and
the first horn agree on a consistent pitch and are
firm about it (and not flat), the orchestra as a whole
will tend to "believe" that pitch better than the oboe's
(especially if he IS flat or inconsistent).
It also helps if the individual sections (at least the
HORN section) think tuning together BEFORE a rehearsal
is a good idea.  FWIW, most of the time, when *I* am
irritated by an intonation problem, so are the others
involved, and would be happy to get rid of those beats.
It goes without saying (or should) that we are trying
to make the pitch BETTER (closer to the orchestra's
standard, whether 440, 443, whatever).
Larry Brunelle

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Here's a serious question:  I'd be interested in hearing other
> people's survival techniques when the pitch in the orchestra is
> terrible.  In other words, how to keep yourself sounding as good as
> possible while everyone around you is trying to rip the mouthpiece
> right off your face by playing out of tune, half the orchestra sharp,
> the other half flat. Well, ok let's call that the worst case
> scenario.  How about if the pitch is not that bad, but maybe one
> person in the group is off enough that you can't really go with them
> but you have some important stuff to play with them? Let's assume for
> the sake of the discussion, that the situation can't be changed
> through talking to the other players involved and that your pitch is,
>  of course, perfect - it's those other numbskulls causing all the
> trouble.  I'm interested in what can be done while actually playing
> to keep focused and to keep from getting thrown off by bad pitch.
> Whaddya say?  - Steve Mumford


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RE: [Hornlist] Tuning question

2003-08-03 Thread Jonathan West
I have had that situation recently. The first horn was seriously flat in the
high register, the second horn flat in all registers. I was playing third.

I tuned to the first horn whenever we were both playing, on the principle
that the section ought to be in tune with itself as far as possible. That
meant that I had to adjust my tuning down whenever his part went into the
upper register. Whenever 3rd horn played alone, I let my pitch rise to the
rest of the orchestra. Bloody hard work it was too!

Jonathan West


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[Hornlist] Tuning question

2003-08-03 Thread MUMFORDHornworks
Here's a serious question:  I'd be interested in hearing other people's 
survival techniques when the pitch in the orchestra is terrible.  In other 
words, how to keep yourself sounding as good as possible while everyone around you 
is trying to rip the mouthpiece right off your face by playing out of tune, 
half the orchestra sharp, the other half flat.
Well, ok let's call that the worst case scenario.  How about if the pitch 
is not that bad, but maybe one person in the group is off enough that you 
can't really go with them but you have some important stuff to play with them?
Let's assume for the sake of the discussion, that the situation can't be 
changed through talking to the other players involved and that your pitch is, 
of course, perfect - it's those other numbskulls causing all the trouble.  I'm 
interested in what can be done while actually playing to keep focused and to 
keep from getting thrown off by bad pitch.
Whaddya say?  - Steve Mumford
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[Hornlist] Tuning

2003-07-31 Thread Robert Osmun
Phil Farkas' article on tuning still works. Find it at
http://www.osmun.com/reference/tuninghorn.htm.

Bob Osmun
www.osmun.com


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[Hornlist] Tuning

2003-07-31 Thread Chris Tedesco
I thought my Yahoo email address was subscribed to the Yahoo list but it was
not,  but I did upload the Lawson tuning guide to the Yahoo hornlist so take a
look there if interested.

Chris

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Re: [Hornlist] tuning in general & feeling

2003-01-29 Thread Prof.Hans Pizka
This is the initial chord, held for one measure, so nobody has played before. The 
prominent note is the concert "bb". A perfect fifth with the "eb", off course, the 
main note of the chord. But still, the "bb" is the note of tension, which releases to 
"cb".

One has to sit as the top of the chord, commanding it with all the tension & all the 
intensity possible. Do not mistake intensity with loudness, please. Even a passage in 
the piano dynamic can be full of power (intensity). This is some of the secrets in 
music, dividing better musicians from less good musicians. There are a lot of 
musicians, reproducing written music just two-dimensional, but a few who can do the 
same three-dimensional and extreme few who do it four-dimensional, the fourth 
dimension to be "feeling".
.

"Scott Pappal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> schrieb:
> Professor Pizka:
> 
> I believe that Howard (and others) was refering
> strictly to the NAMING of a chord as opposed to the
> TUNING of a chord. In the chord you quote from
> Goetterdaemmerung, do you call this a bb minor chord?
> I certainly don't - its an e-flat minor triad, so
> built from the "bottom up." Of course, you can I both
> know that no one cares about theory while playing - in
> this case, we have to "tune" from the top down,
> because those who've played before us already have set
> the intonation. So we tune in this case from the top
> down. 
> 
> I'm not arguing with you - just trying to clarify some
> comments - you know language, it always gets in the
> way, especially over a written media such as the
> internet.
> 
> Cordially Yours, Scott 
> 
> P.S. We're having a "heat wave" of 20 degrees here in
> Pennsylvania.
> 
> --- "Prof.Hans Pizka" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Goetterdaemmerung first chord is fixed from top:
> > 
> > bb - gb -- eb.
> > 
> > The upper note bb forces the whole chord.
> > ..
> > 
> > "Howard Sanner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> schrieb:
> > > "Prof.Hans Pizka" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I would apprecciate it very much, if less
> > experienced or less "exposed" players would hold
> > back their insufficient or inadequate or exaggerated
> > advise & let the professionals provide their method.
> > It would be wise for the majority of horn players to
> > follow the advise given by these experts without any
> > comments but just questions for clarification if
> > necessary.
> > > > 
> > > > Keep in mind, that certain chords are built from
> > top instead of the common rule, that things go from
> > bottom upwards.
> > > 
> > >   OK, in the spirit of the first quoted paragraph,
> > would you
> > > please explain what you mean by chords that are
> > built from the
> > > top down? Are you talking about inversions?
> > Otherwise I haven't a
> > > clue what you're getting at.
> > > 
> > >   Thanks.
> > > 
> > >   Howard Sanner
> > >   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > ___
> > > Horn mailing list
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/listinfo/horn
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > Prof.Hans Pizka
> > email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] tel.: +49 89 903 9548 -
> > www.pizka.de  (horn site) with connections to 
> > www.pizka.de/Pizka-music.html  (publications) -
> > www.pizka.de/PizClasHr.htm (instruments,
> > mouthpieces) 
> > www.pizka.de/PizWrHorn.htm (Viennese Horns) -
> > www.pizka.de/mpiece.htm (mouthpieces)
> > www.pizka.de/Pizka-travel.htm (pictures, stories,
> > experiences from my travel) - open soon
> > 
> > mail is virus checked
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> 
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connections to 
www.pizka.de/Pizka-music.html  (publications) - www.pizka.de/PizClasHr.htm 
(instruments, mouthpieces) 
www.pizka.de/PizWrHorn.htm (Viennese Horns) - www.pizka.de/mpiece.htm (mouthpieces)
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Re: [Hornlist] tuning in general & in particular

2003-01-28 Thread Scott Pappal
Professor Pizka:

I believe that Howard (and others) was refering
strictly to the NAMING of a chord as opposed to the
TUNING of a chord. In the chord you quote from
Goetterdaemmerung, do you call this a bb minor chord?
I certainly don't - its an e-flat minor triad, so
built from the "bottom up." Of course, you can I both
know that no one cares about theory while playing - in
this case, we have to "tune" from the top down,
because those who've played before us already have set
the intonation. So we tune in this case from the top
down. 

I'm not arguing with you - just trying to clarify some
comments - you know language, it always gets in the
way, especially over a written media such as the
internet.

Cordially Yours, Scott 

P.S. We're having a "heat wave" of 20 degrees here in
Pennsylvania.

--- "Prof.Hans Pizka" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Goetterdaemmerung first chord is fixed from top:
> 
> bb - gb -- eb.
> 
> The upper note bb forces the whole chord.
> ..
> 
> "Howard Sanner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> schrieb:
> > "Prof.Hans Pizka" wrote:
> > >
> > > I would apprecciate it very much, if less
> experienced or less "exposed" players would hold
> back their insufficient or inadequate or exaggerated
> advise & let the professionals provide their method.
> It would be wise for the majority of horn players to
> follow the advise given by these experts without any
> comments but just questions for clarification if
> necessary.
> > > 
> > > Keep in mind, that certain chords are built from
> top instead of the common rule, that things go from
> bottom upwards.
> > 
> > OK, in the spirit of the first quoted paragraph,
> would you
> > please explain what you mean by chords that are
> built from the
> > top down? Are you talking about inversions?
> Otherwise I haven't a
> > clue what you're getting at.
> > 
> > Thanks.
> > 
> > Howard Sanner
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > ___
> > Horn mailing list
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/listinfo/horn
> > 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Prof.Hans Pizka
> email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] tel.: +49 89 903 9548 -
> www.pizka.de  (horn site) with connections to 
> www.pizka.de/Pizka-music.html  (publications) -
> www.pizka.de/PizClasHr.htm (instruments,
> mouthpieces) 
> www.pizka.de/PizWrHorn.htm (Viennese Horns) -
> www.pizka.de/mpiece.htm (mouthpieces)
> www.pizka.de/Pizka-travel.htm (pictures, stories,
> experiences from my travel) - open soon
> 
> mail is virus checked
> ___
> Horn mailing list
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Hornlist] Tuning

2003-01-28 Thread Prof.Hans Pizka
Best answer ever to this thematic. Bravo Lawrence.


<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> schrieb:
> In a message dated 28/01/2003 18:27:25 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> writes:
> 
> 
> > Yo!  I heard her do this little 'circus trick' as she called it during her 
> > masterclass at the Banff workshop.  She pushed the main slides in all the 
> > way 
> > and played notes on pitch; then pulled them out as far as possible and 
> > played 
> > the exact same notes, still on pitch.  (And, yes, I can do that, also!  And 
> > I 
> > know lots of players who can do it.)
> 
> I know lots of players who can do that and play just as out of tune no matter 
> where the slide is.
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Lawrence
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-- 
Prof.Hans Pizka
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] tel.: +49 89 903 9548 - www.pizka.de  (horn site) with 
connections to 
www.pizka.de/Pizka-music.html  (publications) - www.pizka.de/PizClasHr.htm 
(instruments, mouthpieces) 
www.pizka.de/PizWrHorn.htm (Viennese Horns) - www.pizka.de/mpiece.htm (mouthpieces)
www.pizka.de/Pizka-travel.htm (pictures, stories, experiences from my travel) - open 
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Re: [Hornlist] tuning in general & in particular

2003-01-28 Thread Prof.Hans Pizka
Dear friends, this is all about very funny, your comments on this. As long as you ae 
the only play who adjusts himself or herself to a piano, it does not matter  how fast 
& how you adjust your tuning. But if you play in the orchestra or the wind ensemble, 
you have absolutely not the time to bend all the pitches or lip them up, but still 
keeping an even tone quality. This is absolute nonsense. The woodwinds will kill you.

Or are your all ears ruined by the time ? 

If a slide, by some accidental push (mostly the first slide - but this does not touch 
most of you as you use the Bb-side mostly, right) is pushed in quite far, it disturbes 
enormously and it cannot be lipped down enough. If tone quality does not count for 
you, well, lip things up or down, never mind, but never try this while Maazel, Muti, 
Ozawa or other famous conducters are in front of the orchestra. You will not be there 
the next rehearsal, be sure.

And the circus trick, well, pushing in the slides . Did you check, if these "artists" 
pushed ALL slides in, of both sides ? Pushing the F-slides in but playing on the 
Bb-side, well, it works without any extra effort, a big surprise for those who stuck 
with the Bb-side or the F-side. And how about compensating wrong slide position by 
alternated fingering ? It works also, but nobody (really hard working in the 
orchestra) has the time to prepare such clowneries, except a few soloists, for whon a 
sound without the disturbances (extra noises) does not matter much.

Try once to adjust pitch defficiencies by bending, lipping-up  while playing Till or 
Heldenleben or Salome. Hallelujah, I have seen horses vomite ..

Ear training, ear training & ear training again - that is the only method.

But , to repeat myself once more, I brought the whole issue up to remind the players 
to tune according to concert "a" but using the best note on the horn, the concert "f" 
- our c2, 2nd space from top - in a relation of a Third. Never tuning the horn by 
using "concert a" on the horn. 

That was it. Anything else is just excuse, excuse or lack of knowledge, lack of 
experience.

During an audition, if the Mozart concerto is played & all notes played with B1 
(Bb-horn first valve) are just a bit flat, you are gone the first round, really, no 
joke. It does not matter how virtuoso you play or how safe you play. You disqualified 
yourself by the insufficient tuning abilities, by the missing ear training. Believe 
me, please. We just had "audition weeks" (solo oboe, solo clarinet, deputy first horn, 
first violin, solo bassoon - all since Jan.1st, 2003), so I might have refreshed my 
knowledge about this problem. And last, I do not play just for fun, I make a living by 
playing horn, on principal position since 1957, in top orchestras since 1962; so no 
fun more, but professionalism. Well, I have fun while playing the horn, still now, and 
could not survive in my position without fun. But the rules are not fun. They are very 
hard, very strict. Just one person not following these rules, the orchestra is ruined.

I have to clarify again:
The horn has to be tuned basically, not for every note. This would not be possible. It 
does not matter if the valve slides are for a single millimeter more in or out, never. 
But they have to be set in a way, that half step, full step, 1 1/2 steps are correct, 
at least for the "center" of the horns average compass - written c2 for the F-horn, 
resulting in concert f1.

As I pointed out before, the dilemma is with the inadequate training of horn players & 
their improper equipment (for the particular player), resulting in too flat higher 
pitches & too sharp lower pitches.

If they now start, adjusting the slides for every note, an impossible task, the end up 
with the usual nightmare & should not wonder, that ever responsible emsemble leader is 
trying to replace them by better "tuned" players.

The truth, even it hurts, but the truth.

Kendall, are you on the list, kick them at the right place, - you know where, to push 
them back on track or at least on track where they have not been yet.

Sorry folks, sometimes it seems as "throwing pearls before swine ", if you preach 
& preach & preach, but nobody believes, but still keeps things going the same problems 
on and on and on. But life could be much easier ..
..  

"Bill Gross" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> schrieb:
> Several folks have commented on good musicians ability to play a horn in
> tune with the tuning slide all the way in or all the way out.  I take it
> from this statement that what these horn players are doing is adjusting the
> way they play using what they hear from the horn and the other
> instrument(s).
> 
> It would seem that most competent players would be able to adjust the
> intonation of their instruments by the way the play, not adjusting slides.
> This raises a question, how much of this adjustment is a conscience  effort
> and how much an automatic acti

Re: [Hornlist] tuning in general & in particular

2003-01-28 Thread Prof.Hans Pizka
Goetterdaemmerung first chord is fixed from top:

bb - gb -- eb.

The upper note bb forces the whole chord.
..

"Howard Sanner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> schrieb:
> "Prof.Hans Pizka" wrote:
> >
> > I would apprecciate it very much, if less experienced or less "exposed" players 
>would hold back their insufficient or inadequate or exaggerated advise & let the 
>professionals provide their method. It would be wise for the majority of horn players 
>to follow the advise given by these experts without any comments but just questions 
>for clarification if necessary.
> > 
> > Keep in mind, that certain chords are built from top instead of the common rule, 
>that things go from bottom upwards.
> 
>   OK, in the spirit of the first quoted paragraph, would you
> please explain what you mean by chords that are built from the
> top down? Are you talking about inversions? Otherwise I haven't a
> clue what you're getting at.
> 
>   Thanks.
> 
>   Howard Sanner
>   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> ___
> Horn mailing list
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/listinfo/horn
> 


-- 
Prof.Hans Pizka
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] tel.: +49 89 903 9548 - www.pizka.de  (horn site) with 
connections to 
www.pizka.de/Pizka-music.html  (publications) - www.pizka.de/PizClasHr.htm 
(instruments, mouthpieces) 
www.pizka.de/PizWrHorn.htm (Viennese Horns) - www.pizka.de/mpiece.htm (mouthpieces)
www.pizka.de/Pizka-travel.htm (pictures, stories, experiences from my travel) - open 
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Re: [Hornlist] tuning in general & in particular

2003-01-28 Thread Howard Sanner
"Prof.Hans Pizka" wrote:
>
> I would apprecciate it very much, if less experienced or less "exposed" players 
>would hold back their insufficient or inadequate or exaggerated advise & let the 
>professionals provide their method. It would be wise for the majority of horn players 
>to follow the advise given by these experts without any comments but just questions 
>for clarification if necessary.
> 
> Keep in mind, that certain chords are built from top instead of the common rule, 
>that things go from bottom upwards.

OK, in the spirit of the first quoted paragraph, would you
please explain what you mean by chords that are built from the
top down? Are you talking about inversions? Otherwise I haven't a
clue what you're getting at.

Thanks.

Howard Sanner
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