Re: iMac (Flat Panel) not recognizing any drives
Check to see if it has a CK2032(Silver coin battery) Battery on the Motherboard. Replace with a NEW-FRESH battery. Reset pram (battery may be near it) then see if it will start from CD system disk. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Apr 9, 2018 at 21:42, Clark Martinwrote: It could be the IDE controller is wonky. I had that happen in an iBook. Do you have a Firewire or USB drive you can boot from. Clark MartinA designated driver on the information Super Highway On Apr 9, 2018, at 4:38 AM, 'Juergen Grieb' via iMac Group wrote: I have an iMac (Flat Panel) from 2002 (aka The Lamp). Bought it some years ago and replaced the hard disk with an SSD. It was working fine the last time I used it. But I haven't been using it from quite some time. Last boot up was 2-3 years ago. When I try to boot it now, it just won't. I get a gray screen. Pressing option gets me to the boot manager. There are no drives shown there. Inserting a macOS installer disc changes nothing. Reset PRAM, no luck. Can boot into open firmware. But booting from there results also in the gray screen. Then I thought it might be the drives or their connection. I removed them from the iMac and connected then (with the iMac cable) to another computer and they work fine there. Anyone any idea why the iMac stopped recognizing any drive? Are there parts in the the iMac that can go bad (no battery leakage) over the years and need replacing? -- You received this message because you are a member of the iMac Group, a group for those using Apple iMacs and eMacs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to imaclist@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/imaclist --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "iMac Group" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are a member of the iMac Group, a group for those using Apple iMacs and eMacs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to imaclist@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/imaclist --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "iMac Group" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: Now this is Apple like the good old days!
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Dec 15, 2017 at 13:36, Bruce Johnsonwrote: Those lazy, crazy IIFX days of old, when Macs were almost literally worth their weight in gold :-P You have to toss the VESA adapter into your shopping cart to do it, but you can once again BTO a single Mac that comes in at more than $10,000 https://www.dropbox.com/s/g3bnauonmamj7ti/10kMac.png?dl=0 -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs -- You received this message because you are a member of the iMac Group, a group for those using Apple iMacs and eMacs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to imaclist@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/imaclist --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "iMac Group" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are a member of the iMac Group, a group for those using Apple iMacs and eMacs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to imaclist@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/imaclist --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "iMac Group" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: USB Digital Video Converter
Russell, checked withNational Camera they may have someone in your area that can helped with the fix of your camera and also the TIMING of your tape.Douglas in Minnesota Sent on cell On Sun, Apr 23, 2017 at 9:36, Russell Idaho - USAwrote: So I FINALLY got the digital video converter working! Yes, it does work. I tried a variety of adapters to get audio but nothing worked, I received my 3.5mm Sony compatible composite cable and found VLC was not working right, I'd get video but no audio. So I downloaded some trial video software (Debut Video Capture Free) from the App Store and it works! The only way I knew the sound worked was the vu meter at the bottom of the window. This makes me think that VLC was receiving audio also, just not 'playing through' to the speakers or headphones. But VLC kept crashing no matter what I tried so I recorded with this new software and it seems OK although it has a watermark without paying the $49.95. I also tried Audacity to get an uncompressed audio capture and it works too. The s-video out does not work but I really don't know if that is the camera, the cable or the capture device. One of my old tapes is me working around the ranch, the train and the animals but it looks like when I recorded it the tracking was off on the camera and it is unwatchable. I figure I'm going to have to get that old camera working to play it back, anyone know anything about fixing old Sony 8mm video cameras? Russell Courtenay Sent from my iPhone On Apr 16, 2017, at 4:34 PM, Russell Courtenay wrote: So I finally got a chance to test this thing and the USB extension cable supplied is no good, it shows up when plugged directly into the USB port, not through the cable. Shows up on both the PC and the iMac but I can’t get any video feed from my Sony Hi8 8mm video camera. I think it may be the output on the camera but I only have an s-video cable (the later Sonys use a proprietary 4 conductor 3.5mm composite video cable that I don’t have and will take two weeks to get from eBay). I tired a composite cable with an s-video adapter and that didn’t work either. I have the old Sony most of these tapes were originally recorded on and it has composite outputs but it was dropped (and I then found out it had been dropped and glued back together BEFORE I bought it as when I opened it up I found lots of broken glue joints). I haven’t tried it in a while but as I recall it also had a tracking problem. I really hate video tapes and their tracking problems, seems like every VCR I have had over the years has had the tracking and a belt or two go out and you have to remove a LOT of screws to fix either… I have a third Sony video camera but it doesn’t work at all. This is getting pretty complicated… I did find more video tapes I didn’t know I had including one of me playing my guitar the our local Cherry Festival in 1999! I guess I could just watch it on the 1.5” LCD on the camera with sound on only one side of the headphones…. Russell Courtenay Sent from my old iMac On Mar 28, 2017, at 10:50 AM, Bruce Johnson wrote: On Mar 27, 2017, at 7:59 PM, Russell Courtenay wrote: I have been wanting one of these for years to play around with but hesitated to pay $70 for the El Gato device so I plunked down a whole $7 for a generic version off of eBay. The auction said 'Mac' in the title but I didn't believe that as it showed a 3" cd, which I KNOW won't work on any Mac, but I figured I'd try it anyway, most of the software is built into modern operating systems I suppose... So I couldn't resist and popped it open to reveal some very generic looking chips… \Plug it into your Mac, then open System Information, go to the USB section and see if it says the product and vendor id is: Kensington Slimblade Trackball: Product ID: 0x2041 Vendor ID: 0x047d (Kensington) Version: 1.07 Speed: Up to 1.5 Mb/sec Manufacturer: Kensington Location ID: 0xfa133000 / 12 Current Available (mA): 500 Current Required (mA): 100 Extra Operating Current (mA):0 Googling that will often lead you to the OEM and suitable downloadable drivers. WIthout the driver it won’t properly show all the details or work, but it’s often enough info to hunt down the drivers, or at least the OEM. if mac drivers exist… But, as Michael Shaw says any non-slot loading optical drive will also work with those 3” cd’s. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs -- You received this message because you are a member of the iMac Group, a group for those using Apple iMacs and eMacs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list .shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists /netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to imaclist@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send
Re: Working G3 iMac?
wrote: I'm two hours south of Spokane, WA. Anyone know of a functioning 500Mhz or higher G3 iMac, anywhere? (Every time the CRT goes out in mine I pull the guts and put it in another. I've done this three times since 1999.) Finally, for the first time, I'm having difficulty locating a donor. All I really do is download music and play iTunes with it but these machines are perfect for that, humming along unobtrusively... -- You received this message because you are a member of the iMac Group, a group for those using Apple iMacs and eMacs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to imaclist@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/imaclist --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "iMac Group" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are a member of the iMac Group, a group for those using Apple iMacs and eMacs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to imaclist@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/imaclist --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "iMac Group" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: To Upgrade or Not to Upgrade
The 'flood' was nature, (14 inch rain) but my two-1000 gal. Subpump could not keep up. Was 4 feet deep out side of my home at 11:30 pm cst when fireman carryed me out, had one to 2 feet thru 'ground' floor. 50 mile circle radius flood. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Sep 26, 2016 at 17:01, Julia Brinckloewrote: Wow, big thanks for the extensive response. And appreciate reminder of the security issue--which Mac users didn't have prior to the whole intel partnership. At least it seemed Mac code was better written. FYI my main system is the Mac mini and a Dell PC sharing a monitor, mouse and tablet on a switch. They share peripherals via a home network. I like your solution--to clone Mavericks on an external drive and upgrade the main drive. I'd partition my main drive but at 500GB it's not so big these days. (My first computer was an IBM Headstart PC with no hard drive at all--everything stored on floppies. And my first Mac had a 20 MB HD and 8 or 16 MB RAM. Technology flies..) I'm wondering if I have to install Yosemite before upgrading to El Capitan. But I'm sure Apple has an FAQ on that. I confess I'm most reluctant to part with Mavericks because I live ten minutes away from the real thing, and seeing it on my desktop, I'm home. Thanks again. You know your stuff.<='o } On Mon, Sep 26, 2016 at 10:47 AM, Google wrote: > On Sep 26, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Julia Brinckloe wrote: > > I have a query regarding Mac system upgrades. > > I am currently running Mavericks (OSX 10.9.5) on my Mac Mini, 2.3 GHz Intel > Core i5, 16 GB RAM. > > I've been reluctant to upgrade to Yosemite or El Capitan because this works > well for me (and my peripherals). I know upgrades use more memory. Not sure > about support for older peripherals. > > Is there any real advantage to upgrading--enough to override "if it ain't > broke, don't fix it"..? > > Thanks in advance for opinion on this. jb The amount of installed RAM in your Mac Mini is more than enough to handle even macOS 10.12 Sierra, so that’s not a problem. And the size of the basic macOS software has been shrinking, so that’s not a concern either. What is a concern, though, is the support Apple provides with security updates. Beginning with OS X 10.7 Lion, Apple has settled into a regular 3-year cycle. Mavericks was introduced on October 22, 2013 and thus is nearing the end of the cycle during which Apple actively provides security and other updates, such as to Safari. Since macOS updates to new versions have been free since Mavericks, it makes sense to take advantage of them, if only to keep the operating system up to date with today’s online environment, where security is an ever-growing issue. For me, that’s reason enough to upgrade to the newest version of macOS/OS X that my Macs will run. Yes, there are niggling concerns about the need to update third-party software, and I just went through about a half dozen updates of things such as Carbon Copy Cloner, DiskWarrior and SpamSieve to make them work with Sierra, but a bunch of other software providers including Apple had already automatically provided updates to their software. As for peripherals, yes, that’s a concern. Printer manufacturers, to pick an apt example, are notorious for pushing out new hardware and ignoring operating system-compatible driver updates for older hardware. Often, trying to make an older printer work with the latest version of an operating system is impossible for that reason. But there’s a workaround for all that. What I do — every year since Apple’s now on an annual OS update cycle — is to keep a cloned copy of the most recent 2 or 3 versions of OS X on an external drive. Right now, for example, I’ve got one 4 TB drive loaded with a clone of Sierra which is backed up daily by Carbon Copy Cloner. Then I’ve got a clone of El Capitan and Yosemite on that same drive. The Sierra clone space was used for the Mavericks backup clone. When macOS 10.13 comes out next fall, the Yosemite clone will disappear. This setup allows me to reboot into an older OS X version should the need arise, whether it’s because of hardware or software. I rarely have to use these older clones, but it’s nice to know they’re there if I need them. The Yosemite clone helped me get past the drastic changes to Disk Utility that El Capitan introduced. On the other hand, an easier solution for you may be to partition the internal drive so that you’ve got a Mavericks partition and a current-macOS partition. Another solution would be to use software like Parallels which permits users to run multiple versions of Mac operating systems side by side without rebooting. Or you can stick with what you’ve got until it no longer can do the job and then get all-new everything, which is a strategy a lot of people I know use. Since I think you’re running a mid-2011 Mac Mini, you’ve probably got a few more years
Re: HP printer driver update problem
Robert let me know if you ever get it working. i have same printer setting here(neat little guy) was going to put it on odroid machine (MB same as RPI but 4× power)douglas...@yahoo.com Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 8:51, Bob Whitonwrote: On Feb 25, 2016, at 8:38 PM, W.Adrian D'Alessio wrote: > I have often observed such problems. It seems software and " the helpers " > are geared to break your system no matter what. > Sometimes it is our fault, we overlooked something simple or we did not > understand an instruction page which was written in China before being > translated into 6 other languages before it was translated into English from > a Serbian version. > > It is the industry's way of saying you are not spending enough money fast > enough. > Actually, HP was surprisingly helpful with this, and I even got to talk to a service rep on the phone. It turns out that HP hasn’t issued a driver update for this printer since 2006. This update was all Apple. And then there was iOS 9, but that’s another rant. Bob -- -- You received this message because you are a member of the iMac Group, a group for those using Apple iMacs and eMacs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to imaclist@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/imaclist --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "iMac Group" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You received this message because you are a member of the iMac Group, a group for those using Apple iMacs and eMacs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to imaclist@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/imaclist --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "iMac Group" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to imaclist+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.