Re: KR> Melting lead

2017-02-02 Thread brian.kraut--- via KRnet
That is exactly what I did, plaster of paris molds that were baked in
the oven to get the moisture out.  I think I made the initial male mold
out of wax if I remember correctly then poured on the plaster of paris
to make a female mold then baked in the oven and poured out the melted
wax to get my female molds.

I used lead fishing sinkers and melted them in a cat food can on my gas
stove, but I think an electric stove would do fine also.

One recommendation I have on your aileron ballance weights is to not
have them as big rectangles.  Keep in mind that you want most of the
mass of lead to be on a long arm away from the hinge point.  It takes
twice the weight to ballance as it would if the weight was twice as far
from the hinge point.  I recall Jim Faughn's (If I am remembering
correctly) ballance weight on one aileron breaking off in flight at a
gathering one year.  His weights were huge rectangles with a lot of mass
near the hinge point so they were a lot heavier than they needed to be
which makes the whole aileron and counterbalance assembly heavier and
more prone to flutter even when ballanced.  I made mine more wedge
shaped with most of the mass far from the hinge point.

Speaking of melting lead, I have been trying to figure out for the past
few days how to deal with my solder pot that just crapped out that I use
for mass soldering of circuit boards.  It is a big 2,000 Watt electric
pot that is regulated at 250 degrees C.  I have a new solder pot on the
way, but am trying to figure out the best way to melt out the 75 pounds
of solder in the old pot and put it in the new one.  At today's prices
for bar solder it is $1,500 worth of solder.  It takes about an hour to
melt when the pot is working so I am not sure if I can effectively just
remove the pot from the whole machine and heat on the stove or heat it
with a torch.  Withe any luck the heating element on the new pot is the
same as the old one and I can just transfer it to the old pot.  Can't
buy just the heating element.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Melting lead
From: Parley T Byington via KRnet 
Date: Sat, January 28, 2017 1:56 pm
To: "krnet@list.krnet.org" 
Cc: Parley T Byington 

Date: Saturday, Jan.28,2017
Subject: Melting lead and safety precautions

When making my counter weights, I built some molds out of plaster of
Paris to shape then used the female mold to pour melted lead into. 

ONE VERY IMPORTANT POINT HERE; that is heat the mold (plaster) in the
oven to a high temperature to ensure there is NO water left in the
plaster PRIOR to pouring molten lead in it. FAILURE to do this will
result in an explosion of molten lead that will cover everything with in
a 10 ft radius INCLUDING the person pouring the lead! ALWAYS WEAR
PROTECTIVE CLOTHING, GLOVES, EYE, FACE, ARM, AND BODY PROTECTION.


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Re: KR> Fuel header tank

2017-01-16 Thread brian.kraut--- via KRnet
Having hung upside down by the seatbelt with a header tank on fire I
definitely prefer to have all the fuel in the wings, but I had a Midget
Mustang with all the fuel in the header tank and currently fly a Mustang
2 with just a header tank.  I would certainly put all my fuel in the
wings if I was building a new one, but not going to build new wings just
to eliminate the header.



Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com

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Re: KR> Fuel header tank

2017-01-16 Thread brian.kraut--- via KRnet

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