It's best to do this with a passive, rather than a worker, and it works
best
in a cloth stitch area. Usually, though, it's the workers that run out of
thread! If this happens, you can "exchange" the worker and a passive by
putting in an extra twist when they meet. Do this a row or two before you
Hi Debora, and welcome!
Alice has given you excellent advice. Many fine lacemakers handle knots
exactly as Alice has described.
I'm a little anal (OK, I'm a lot anal!), so if I can avoid it, I don't leave
knots in my lace. I'll try to describe one technique for doing this,
although once again, th
Hi Debora,
Welcome to the world of lacemaking!! To every
question, there's usually several answers since there
is a variety of types of laces and kinds of thread. So
here's one opinion.
How much thread to put on the bobbin is an age-old
question. Most patterns, once you are past the very
beginn
Happy holidays to all!
I finished making my second ornament ever and want to make more. I have
some questions:
- How do you calculate how much thread to wind on the bobbins per pattern,
so you don't waste much?
- How do you prepare starch and apply it the old-fashioned way?
- Is there a way to h
Mary wrote:
>
> pins.>
And Jean responded:
> What type of pillow are you using? I can't get on with the
high-domed
> mushroom ones recommended for beginners at all.
I have found that the domed pillows work fine for straight
pieces which are fairly short, like bookmarks, and for small
motif-type
Mary wrote:
What type of pillow are you using? I can't get on with the high-domed
mushroom ones recommended for beginners at all. I got on fairly OK with
quite a low domed one for edgings and small pieces, but the work and the
pricking still both rose up the pins. Now I almost exclusively use a
