While doing travel research on the web, I found that Rauma, Finland, has a
Lace Week that's really nine days long. This year it starts tomorrow (July
20) and goes until July 28. There are lace displays in many places with
people demo-ing, plus many other events.
If this is held the same time
Very nice Susan. Rauma looks similar to Beds. Â A very nice pattern.
Janice
Janice Blair Murrieta, CA, jblace.com
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Finally had time to take a look. That is really pretty lace, and well done,
too.
Lyn from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA, where the weather has finally settled
into seasonal. Warm, sunny. My antique roses smell heavenly.
Susan wrote:
Hello All! With much help from Arachne, I finally
Hello All! With much help from Arachne, I finally finished my first piece of
Rauma lace--Kustaa Adolflai. It is posted to Flickr. Here's what I
learned--there are many types of crossings & not all of them are in Practical
Skills. Alex Stillwell came to my rescue so that issue was
Many thanks Janis! Yes, there are MILES of plaits in Rauma lace, hence my
reference to Bedfordshire. Although I own some Bedfordshire books, I've never
actually worked that lace. Rauma lace is new to me as well so this has been a
steep leaning curve! Another Arachnean also recommended hiding
Hi Susan
If your lace with tallies has plaits as well, like Bedfordshire, I find that a
new thread can be hidden in a plait.
Just add the new thread to the plait along with the old one. Do 2 or 3 cross,
twists. depending on the length of the plait then throw out the old thread and
continue. Cut
Thank you Karen! I think I understand your explanation. It sounds like you
are disguising the beginning of the new thread at a point where leaf tallies
are clustered. That would make sense because there's a lot happening in a
tally "flower". You are clearly fearless in the tally department
When I have a lot of tallies in my work, and I do MANY tallies, I usually
try to hide a knot in the centre of the tally. I switch threads, if need
be, with a tally passive. Alternatively, if this is not positive and the
thread is fine, I put the knot up and out of the work by lengthening the
Hello All! For the past few weeks, I have been slowly working my way thru the
Kustaa Adolflai pattern for an exhibit of Finnish lace. It has been quite a
challenge because I've never worked this type of lace AND it has an abundance
of leaf tallies. At long last, I am getting the tallies
>I only know that Rauma was an important bobbin lace making area. I think the
>lace was largely torchon with some guipure elements. I suspect Kortelahti's
>work style derives from that tradition.
I have a couple books of Rauma lace patterns but I don't have them right at
hand. My memory of
It's not so much the pattern that affects how a corner will lie, it's
the stitch combinations used to work up the patter that matters.
To prove this try working a torchon sample, with a 90 degree corner.
Work it once with the standard CTpCT ground and again with CTCTpCTCT.
Allow both
Rauma lace now that is a new one for me can you give us a little bit
more info on this (see it works both ways doesn't it)
Happy lacing
Sue M Harvey
Rauma lace is combination of Torchon and Cluny/Beds. It's made of
linen thread. Only handkerchief laces are made of cotton thread.
Handkerchief
I was pleased to see this because it was my question too.
Sue T, Dorset UK
Rauma lace now that is a new one for me can you give us a little bit
more info on this (see it works both ways doesn't it)
Happy lacing
Sue M Harvey
Rauma lace is combination of Torchon and Cluny/Beds. It's made of
There's two or three books of Rauma lace available --
straight edgings with corners added for hankies. Mine
are hiding in the bookshelf right now and I couldn't
find them so I'm writing from memory.
Rauma is the only lace that figured out that the
headside of the lace stretches more than the
Synchronicity!
With my back issues of OIDFA bulletins out - I chanced on the article in
Bulletin 1 - 2003 by Leena Haukanheimo, corners in point ground lace - but
specifically Rauma. she wonders if other (point ground) laces used a wider
angle at the corner, too.
It all started with a person who
Now this new thread (the true angle at corners...) is fascinating to
me. Not long ago, I worked a handkerchief, and was aware from the
beginning that the angle at the corner was *less* than 90 degrees. This
made me curious, but I continued to work the pattern. The lace was,
BTW, about 1.5
Based on that experience, it would seem to me that a
corner worked with an obtuse angle would force the outside (headside)
edge to cup when joined and mounted.
UNLESS (if I'm reading correctly), the particular difficulties presented
by Bucks Point corners require the obtuse angle to offset
On Jan 11, 2007, at 18:53, Clay Blackwell wrote:
Now this new thread (the true angle at corners...) is fascinating to
me.
Me too, since I've never heard of either method (widening or narrowing
the angle) of coping with a problem I hadn't even noticed :)
Not long ago, I worked a
--- bevw [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In Leena's article, she shows two corners prickings.
One is a 90 degree
corner. When it was made up and attached to a piece
of fabric, the flat
angle at the inside corner is 81 degrees.
The other is a 103 degree corner. When it was made
up and attached to
On 1/11/07, Alice Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
How can you have a finished square corner with 81 degrees?
My mistake - it wasn't sewn to fabric. It was placed flat and the angle
measured - so ignore the bit about sewing to fabric.
Yes, the wider the lace, the more correction will be
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