pene piip wrote:
Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops
that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with
I have a problem with that because what do you do when you take the
pricking off the pillow, the contact then sticks to anything und
; Arachne Arachne
Subject: RE: [lace] Securing prickings
At 05:08 PM 10/04/2010, pene piip wrote:
>Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops
>that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with
>an extra 2 to 3 inches around the edge &am
I do this for a lot of years. I just turn the excess sticky part under.
Reinforcement.
Christa
--
From: "Sue Babbs"
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 10:28 AM
To:
Subject: Fw: [lace] Securing prickings
If you want to keep the pricking,
On Apr 10, 2010, at 10:02 AM, David C COLLYER wrote:
Personally I feel that the pricking would not buckle so much if it
was a thin Manilla-type card, but as mine are always paper with
Contact, this is often a problem. I feel it has something to do
with large areas of point ground, rather
I do this for a lot of years. I just turn the excess sticky part under.
Reinforcement.
Christa
--
From: "Sue Babbs"
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 10:28 AM
To:
Subject: Fw: [lace] Securing prickings
If you want to keep the pricking,
hm, well - my prickings are paper photocopies with a layer of clear packing
tape. You could try the tethers (or moorings - thanks Sally!), they do hold
and there is no see-saw pulling on the pricking that would cause a tear. I
sew the threads through the pricking with a needle. If there is a concer
When I take a pricking off the pillow, I fold the contact behind the pricking.
It may have some lint off the pillow on that part and does not seen to stick
firmly so it can be unfolded and used again.
Janice
Janice Blair
Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA
www.jblace.co
If you want to keep the pricking, just trim off the excess contact paper.
Or in the case of the stuff I buy from Walgreen's, you can just peel it off.
A little of the inkjet ink comes too, but the pricking would still be
useable.
Sue Babbs
- Original Message -
From: "pene piip"
I
At 05:08 PM 10/04/2010, pene piip wrote:
Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops
that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with
an extra 2 to 3 inches around the edge & then stick the contact to the
pricking & the pillow & you don't need any
Dear Liz,
I fully understand what you are saying, but would not like to risk
damage to one of the last pillows made with horse hair in Australia.
Thanks
David
I would like to share a method that I learned from Robin Lewis
Wild. It only works on a straw filled pillow and it does involve
the
Clay,
Ulrike Voelker also says .Instead, we should place a temporary
pin off to the side, but toward you, so that the threads must come
down in a straighter line before moving off to the side.
I have always done that. In fact I use a tall hat pin so that 7 or 8
bobbin holders will still s
At 02:49 AM 10/04/2010, Sue Babbs wrote:
Ulrike Loehr (I've forgotten her married name) cuts her blue plastic
film bigger than the pricking and uses that to secure the pricking
to the pillow. I don't find that this works well if you have a piece
on the pillow for a long time, but then you can p
Dear Friends,
I should have said when I first wrote this question, that my pricking
are always photocopies or scans covered in Contact. As such, threads
like these would not hold, or would tear the pricking.
Thanks
David in Ballarat
sew
long loops of thread into the pricking at strategic poi
Ulrike Voelker also showed those of us attending one of her workshops
that you can also cut the contact that you place over the pricking with
an extra 2 to 3 inches around the edge & then stick the contact to the
pricking & the pillow & you don't need any pins.
I have a problem with that because w
With larger prickings on a cookie pillow, such as a square pricking, I pin
down the part that shows, and only one pin per corner, for the lower part
that is covered with a dressing cloth. I just pin at the sides where
needed.
Then as I move down, and move the dressing cloth, those side pins can
I love this idea. Need to make one and give it a try.
Marji
From: Noelene Lafferty
To: lace@arachne.com
Sent: Fri, April 9, 2010 2:44:01 PM
Subject: RE: [lace] Securing prickings
I secure my prickings with just a normal lace pin pushed right in, but I do
David,
I would like to share a method that I learned from Robin Lewis Wild. It only
works on a straw filled pillow and it does involve the sacrifice of some pins.
It also works best if the pins are long. I have found that this method secures
the pricking very firmly to the pillow and puts the
I secure my prickings with just a normal lace pin pushed right in, but I do
have a special drawcloth - it is a square of two layers of fabric, with a
large "U" shape cut out of one side, the width of the lace I am making. It
usually the same size as my block pillow. It covers the pillow, except f
Ulrike Voelker also says that there are other reasons that the pricking
gets kinks or buckles. She advises not using a card that is extremely
stiff, and also be careful about how you're placing the pins. The
headside and footside pins (or edge pins, if not an edging), should be
tilted *slight
ening
and growing. Tulips are coming out. lrb
-Original Message-
>From: David C COLLYER
>Sent: Apr 9, 2010 9:53 AM
>To: lace@arachne.com
>Subject: [lace] Securing prickings
>
>Dear Friends,
>Another questions for your wonderful combination of minds.
>
>How do
Ulrike Loehr (I've forgotten her married name) cuts her blue plastic film
bigger than the pricking and uses that to secure the pricking to the pillow.
I don't find that this works well if you have a piece on the pillow for a
long time, but then you can pin through the film only, and this pin ten
That would work, unless your thread catches on the tape :p
I would like to share Sally Schoenberg's method, hope she doesn't mind - sew
long loops of thread into the pricking at strategic points (e.g. where you
would normally pin), and pin the loops tight 'way back from the pricking,
thus tetherin
In message <20100409135311.6c1a7298...@gex-cn05.ncable.net.au>, David C
COLLYER writes
Dear Friends,
Another questions for your wonderful combination of minds.
How do you secure your pricking to the pillow?
If the pricking card is a square or rectangle, then one pin in each
corner - flat hea
Dear Friends,
Another questions for your wonderful combination of minds.
How do you secure your pricking to the pillow?
I ask this because when I am working on something like a square or
hexagonal edging I try to use as few pins as possible. I can't stand
the bobbins I am using catching on the
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