Hurray, David!!
Don't forget the traditional photo of David making lace "au naturel"!! It
always help me set the seasonal clock... "hmmm, David's peeled out of his
clothes, must be getting warmer down under!"
Clay
Clay Blackwell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [Original Message]
> From: David Collyer
Dear David,
The passives that are between your coarse thread and the footside edge are
treated as a bundle with the coarse thread in chantilly. You go through the
coarse thread and passives together as if they were a gimp thread. You
don't do chantilly like bucks. I would like to see your work
Jo Christodoulides <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 06:29:04 +0100
(BST)
From: Jo Christodoulides
Subject: Re: [lace] A simple question
To: Steph Peters
Oh, my giddy aunt! A Pythonated Treker!! Hee, hee, hee! I love it!
Jo in Cyprus, who can NEVER think of a good sig
Hi everyone
I wrote:
> all pairs (or several groups) except the several nearest the headside to
make the picot (which you would CTC through per usual).
and I meant CTC through the passives (per usual) *not* the picot (in case
anyone reads the foregoing, and is confused...)
--
bye for now
Bev in
Hi David (and list)
Yes, to your first idea, one worker over, one under - which gives what I
call a wrapped effect, or more correctly is twined, especially if you go
around each pair in this manner - but yes you can go one over one under
all pairs (or several groups) except the several nearest the
G'day Bev.
Weave through the pairs closest to
the picot and wrap the weavers only, on the bulk of the threads where you
have a whole lot of them at the headside.
Hadn't thought of that - sounds like a great time saver too. I'd been
weaving all the way. Now could you please just explain in a little
On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 02:46:54 +1000, David wrote:
>In working this very complex Chantilly cloth, I find a problem which also
>often arises in Bucks Point. The number of passives between the work and
>the picots on the edge (can never remember which is headside and which is
>footside :) can vary f
From: Bev Walker
>When you work through your 14 pairs at the picot side are you weaving
>through them or are you wrapping the weaver pair over most?... Weave through
>the pairs closest to the picot and wrap the weavers only, on the bulk of the
>threads where you have a whole lot of them at the
David,
Could humidity or the lack thereof be an issue? I have had more problems with thread
breakage when I lived in more arid environments and would use a plant mister to
periodically spray my threads. My lace is very happy now that I've moved to a much
more humid environment -- although I mi
At 12:27 PM -0400 7/28/04, Panza, Robin wrote:
From: Bev Walker
When you work through your 14 pairs at the picot side are you weaving
through them or are you wrapping the weaver pair over most?... Weave through
the pairs closest to the picot and wrap the weavers only, on the bulk of the
threads wh
David writes:
>The number of passives between the work and
> the picots on the edge (can never remember which is headside and which is
> footside :) can vary from 2 pairs to 14 pairs. I find that when I'm using
> the very fine 2/20 silk and I have to tension up the 14 or so pairs,
that's
> when I'm
>>>From: Bev Walker [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
When you work through your 14 pairs at the picot side are you weaving
through them or are you wrapping the weaver pair over most?... Weave through
the pairs closest to the picot and wrap the weavers only, on the bulk of the
threads where you have a who
Hello David and everyone
When you work through your 14 pairs at the picot side are you weaving
through them or are you wrapping the weaver pair over most? If you aren't
trying the latter, that might help prevent breaking of threads. I read in
Pam Nottingham's book on Bucks that with more than 5 pa
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