Ruth
I know of two authors who have written pattern instruction sets for Paris
lace.
L. Ceulemans N. Andries PARIJSE KANT Vol I, II, III 1985-1988
Irma Neyrinck-Van Herck PARIJSE KANT (KANT TE TURNHOUT) no date, multiple
volumes.
Personally, I think the first is better. But both are sets of
Hi!
Recently someone wrote in and asked what the differences were between Idrija
and Russian tape laces. I've been thinking about that ever since, and
decided to answer. What I'm about to say is based on books, so it is useful
only so far as the books accurately reflect the tradition. For
Candace
I've never actually seen instructions, but it is a strip of single crochet
with treble chain 1 treble worked in each single crochet. At the end of the
row do several stitches into the end single crochet, and then treble 1,
chain 1 across the other side. The end result is a strip thick in
Annette
The bad news is that you need to use at least 2 grades of sandpaper to get
rid of all the hairs and notches on your bobbins. Start with #100 garnet
paper which will remove the notches and hairs. Then move on to #200 and
#400. It is important to use a tack cloth or to carefully vacuum
Jean
I have that book, but it is not really a book to learn from. Kathe Kliot's
approach is wildly modern and contemporary, and far more freeform than even
Czech bobbin lace. Some pieces which are photographed, well, one can hardly
imagine why the artist bothered to use bobbin lace technique at
There is a Canadian supplier called Trillium, which sells general lacemaking
supplies. I don't know if linen cloth is included in their stock.
Lorelei
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and Clay would be LF #4
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Robin
I think you are right. I've turned a few hundred bobbins, mostly for my own
use or for gifts. And I have had problems with Honiton style bobbin necks
breaking, and even some larger ones. The solution that works is not to
insert a pin, but to stop turning when you reach the neck diameter
Devon
Your suggestion of a gaggle (delegation) of Indian lawyers descending on
Ruth Bean absolutely tickles my funny bone. Maybe Ruth Bean will crumple
with enough pestering (especially creative pestering).
Lorelei
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Clay
Dressmakers who serve customers by making dresses for them use commercially
available patterns produced by the standard pattern companies. I suppose
you are talking about producing 1000 copies of a McCall pattern and selling
it at KMart or TJ Max.
Lorelei
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Marcie
I haven't got that far in Niven yet, but I looked at the book. What I would
do is just omit one of the dots on the pricking, and just treat it as a
printing press stutter. That seems the simplest solution. Treating it as a
two point exchange would require a ring pair, which there isn't.
, perfectly made, or
complete projects. Just learning samples would be fine.
If you have such laces and have a flatbed scanner you could create a clear
photo. Please let me know. It may be a few weeks until I actually get the
pictures up on the website. I'll post a message when I do.
Lorelei Halley
There is a dolphin pattern in Tiny Zwaal-Lint NEW BOBBIN LACE PATTERNS,
1982. It is a sort of torchon pattern, with Brussels ground and gimp.
Lorelei
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Devon
I think your complex thread puzzle is a very good way to describe
lacemaking and its appeal. I think the problem is not with your
description, but with the reporters' misconceptions. They probably can't
imagine anyone wanting to spend 100 hours making anything, and they don't
know anyone
Hi everybody,
I just wanted you all to know that Irma Osterman has allowed me to put a
photo of her recent needle lace piece Let me Grow Lovely Growing Old on
the CALG website (for those who didn't get the most recent IOLI bulletin).
http://www.chicagoarealaceguild.comIt is worked in colored
Ilske and Everybody
I think it is interesting that Ilske tells us that the German lacemaking
organization has 4500 members. Considering that the population of Germany
is less than the U.S. and the IOLI has 1600-1700 members, that means that
the percentage of lacemakers in the population in
Rose-Marie
You are right about adding extra twists in certain places when making
spiders. The distinction between who does CT and who does TC seems to be
mostly geographic.
All British lacemakers (as far as I can tell) do half stitch CT. Most, but
no all, western Europeans do it CT. Most, but
Jane
I think crediting Barbara Uttman as inventor of bobbin lace is definitely
incorrect. What she may have done was to establish a lace school in her
town, thereby making it a lace making center. I wouldn't use Mrs. Palliser
as a respectable source. She was writing in the late 19th century.
Kate and Carolina
Thanks for the links to great pictures!
Lorelei
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Noelene
Better yet, get the artist to make a painting of you at your pillow, all
modern. Somewhere on the web there is a page of photos of paintings of
lacemakers. I imagine a modern addition in a continuing story.
Lorelei
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In regard to expecting the UCC to be used in all future books, I do,
unfortunately, foresee a problem. Book publishers won't want to use it
because using full color on most pages costs a fortune to print. That is
why so many English books use black blue and red with their own
idiosyncratic color
Sharon
As it turns out, my local guild is having a meeting tomorrow on Irish
crochet. All I know now is that the grounding used in Irish crochet is a
chain with picots.
3824 W. Irving Pk Rd
Chicago
10 am - 2 pm everybody welcome
Lorelei
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I just want to announce that I'm now selling both of my torchon books on
eBay (and eBay takes credit cards), as well as through my website.
http://www.loreleihalley.com
Just do an eBay search on torchon bobbin lace and both books should pop
up.
Lorelei Halley
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Hi.
Did I forget to tell you all that I put one of the easy patterns from my new
book up on my website as a free pattern. http://www.loreleihalley.com Go
to the page free pattern 2. In a few days I'll be adding one other
pattern.
Lorelei Halley[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Hi!
I have just uploaded a second free pattern from my new book onto my website.
Have a look! Go to http://www.loreleihalley.com/bobbinlace.htm and from
there go to free pattern 3.
Happy Holidays
Lorelei Halley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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I bought some tapestry bobbins from Robin Russ Handweavers many years ago,
and they work just fine for tape lace (with those pointy ends, sewings are
easy).
Lorelei
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Sue
There might be copyright issues involved in what you suggest.
Lorelei
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I think Roslyn should write to the editor of the paper, by-passing the
reporter, and tell him/her that she/he has idiots writing stories who don't
bother to find out if the things they write are even true.
Lorelei
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Hello arachneans,
Ilske Thomsen of Hamburg has given us all another new Christmas gift this
year. Her free pattern is available on my website on this page:
http://www.loreleihalley.com/harz.htm
Lorelei
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Devon
Machine lace is one of those things where the value is purely in the eye of
the beholder: supply vs. demand. There is no intrinsic value. It is just a
matter of what somebody is willing to pay for it. I haven't a clue, myself.
If only it were possible to get into eBay's sales records for
or pieces of these laces that you have
made, books on these techniques that you have and maybe others may not have.
Also, any antique Brussels lace that you may have (for historical
development).
Bring lunch. We will provide coffee.
Lorelei Halley[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Sue
If you can find Jennifer Fisher's BRAID LACE FOR TODAY (British English
calls tape braid -- American English has a different practice), that is
quite good. IOLI library probably has it. Another good one is DMC DIE
KLOEPPELSPITZEN, a reprint of their tape lace book. It is in German, but
the
you a 12 hour
stretch. I've had groups ask for 2-3 hours and 15 students, which is
impossible.
Lorelei Halley.
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Sharon
There is actually a book of patterns (with diagrams) showing lace from that
time period. It is N. Andries CAROLUSKANTJES. It is lace from the
collection at the church of St. Charles Borromeus in Antwerp. Some are
complex with Flanders ground, Paris ground or random braided ground. But
in France.
Lorelei Halley
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Sof
Thanks for this website info. Most of the lace depicted there appears to be
Cluny or what I call continental guipure -- straight lace with a braid
ground. But the page http://mirecourt.free.fr/ does show some free laces,
but only parts. Mirecourt is a free lace, as I understand it.
Lorelei
Devon
Thank you for your very interesting report on lace collections and display
from the museum's point of view. Our membership needs to be aware of this.
Lorelei
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Karen
As far as I know there are several words used to describe the kind of lace
you are talking about: a lace with a square mesh, knotted in the corners.
The various names I've seen are: lacis, filet lacis, guipure d'art. I have
the impression that the words filet refers to a square mesh (since
I think the computer/digital camera discussion is appropriate here because
people are using these things to photograph lace. And there are a number of
people who might find the information useful in the future (me for one).
Lorelei
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Hi
I just wanted you to know that my bobbin lace books are available on eBay.
Lorelei Halley
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Devon
I use an optical camera but the problems with light angles are the same.
You need to make yourself aware of where the light is coming from. I have
found that side lighting my shots works best for lace. Then your head
doesn't make a shadow. I use cheap reflector lamps that I buy at a
There is a pattern for a bobbin lacemaker in Annelie van Olffen-Spikerman's
GUIPURE KLOSKANT. It is part of a larger composition.
Lorelei
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Noelene
I've done a similar thing in a similar situation. I was working an ecru
lace in 60/2 linen and wanted pink gimp, but didn't have any pearl 3 in
pink. So I used two. My basic attitude is: who cares what the lace police
think? Torchon and tape lace both were used primarily for household
Robin
Thank you for the info on storing stuff and what's archival and what's not.
Very useful.
Lorelei
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Noelene
I like to use 4 sided stitch to attach lace to a cloth center. First you
make one row of 4 sided stitch all the way around, catching the lace in the
top row of the stitch. Then fold the cloth back on the underside and work
another row under the first, catching both layers of cloth. Then
Robin
I have heard of buffing needlelace. It was the historic practice, by
specialists. The tool used was called an aficot. My impression is that it
was sculpted laces which received this treatment. The laces were probably
made in linen, not cotton, during the time period when this was done.
Bev
I like the definition in your 3rd paragraph.
A more accurate, though broad definition: Bobbin lace is an off-loom
weaving technique; each thread is attached to a bobbin. Pins are employed
to maintain the structure of the fabric.
Lorelei
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Devon
1. Santina Levey points out that the towns of Valenciennes and Binche are
very close together, almost contiguous. Her opinion is, therefore, that the
towns were making the same kinds of laces at the same time. Antwerp was the
source of Pottenkant, a straight lace with long symmetrical
Devon
Please look at the page revival on my website, where I have pictures of
these various laces.
http://www.loreleihalley.com/revival.htm
Lorelei
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Michelle
There is actually a small amount of authentic historical information on
torchon. The book LePompe 1559 is a pattern book published in 1559 which
consists of woodcuts of patterns for bobbin lace. It is the oldest pattern
book in existence. Most of the designs are for braided lace (lace
Linda
I can talk about workshops and classes both from the perspective of taking
them, as well as teaching them.
I think of a workshop as a short term intense concentration on some specific
type of bobbin lace. Homework and preparation are both matters for teachers
as well as students. Students
Lynn
In certain types of bobbin lace one does push the pins all the way down.
This is done specifically in free/part laces such as Honiton, Duchesse and
tape laces. The reason is that you constantly change directions as you work
and sometimes work over parts already finished. You have to get the
Vasna
Lacis, filet, filet lacis are all names for the same thing. It is a form of
embroidered needle made lace which starts out with a handmade knotted net as
the base, with needle made darning stitches and others to create dense areas
for the design. There is a form of crochet, called filet
Maxine
The American national lace guild, IOLI, regards Hardanger as a form of lace.
Personally I love it. And I would especially love to see pictures of your
tablecloth, close ups and the whole thing.
Congratulations!
Lorelei Halley
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Karen
Thanks for all the info on your source for lacis net and recommended books.
Lorelei
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Lorri
The collar you told us about is handmade. It is a form of Duchesse bobbin
lace from the last half of the 19th century, or possibly early 20th. It is
not the finest or most complex form. But I have seen several other pieces
with similar motifs, design and construction. It doesn't even
Rosemarie
There is a book published by OIDFA called POINT GROUND LACE in 2001 which
answers your question (and also the differences in many other national
versions of point ground lace). I got my copy from Holly Van Sciver about 2
years ago. The authors of the book recognize 3 versions of
Aurelia
I've used all 6 strands of DMC floss to make some samples, intrigued as you
are by the huge array of colors. I found that 6 strands worked well at
5/inch. The reason against using it that I can see is that with multiple
strands easily separated there is too much opportunity for hard
Brenda
I'm not sure that DMC does use their machine embroidery thread to make their
floss. Floss is very soft and the strands are a little hairy. Retors is
tightly twisted and less flexible. Retors (their machine embroidery thread)
has to be strong enough to withstand the mechanical motion of
Lynn
Does the website allow you to save the image file to your computer? If so,
once saved, open it in any graphics program you have which allows you to
specify the size of the printed image. Usually the kinds of programs for
editing photographic images will allow you to do this, or any software
Roslyn
I recently had an opportunity to look at the book by Catherine Barley
NEEDLELACE: DESIGNS TECHNIQUES, CLASSIC CONTEMPORARY, 1993. I think it
is the best I've seen for a beginner, with believable and realistic projects
which have curvilinear designs, but still aren't too difficult. I've
Weronika
I've used amethyst nuggets in a lace I made. I wanted the beads to lie in
the position where double thread picots would be on the outside edge of a
tape. So I calculated which pairs might take turns as weavers, since those
are the ones that would make picots. And I just strung beads
Mary
1. thread. If your pattern calls for 40/2 linen, then pearl cotton #8 is
too thick, a pearl #12 would be closer. But because pearl is so slippery, a
thicker thread may fit tightly into the space. You could try throwing out
one of the central passive pairs. Ideally a tape should have 6 or
Janet
If you will have only one pillow, I suggest a round cookie shaped one, since
it can be used for any kind of bobbin lace. I like a size in the range of
18 to 21 inches in diameter. An Ethafoam pillow would be nearly the
cheapest, and lasts quite long. (Styrofoam is cheaper and easier to
Sue W
Please look at one of the pages in my website for photos of various kinds of
point ground lace.
http://www.loreleihalley.com/identification.htm Point ground is one of
the styles of bobbin lace which was made in many countries of Europe during
the 19th century. Each nation's variant
use of top and bottom sewings (first pass
the top weaver, 2nd pass the lower) is to gain on a pin when you need 2
sewings into the same area.
You can find diagrams on page 54 of Cooks PRACTICAL SKILLS. 4a 4b is an
edge sewing, 5a and 5c are top and bottom sewings.
Lorelei Halley
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Hi all,
As a consequence of the recent controversy, I looked at the photo of her
petals and went backwards to the basic website in which the photo appears.
I discovered her comments on bobbin lace, its future, and the impact of
machine lace. I was astonished to discover that on the subject of
Weronika
I have seen torchon on a grid other than the standard diamond. In DMC's La
Dentelle aux Fuseaux (all torchon) there is a pattern with a flattened
grid. But yes, torchon is always designed on a grid. That is done to keep
all the threads in the proper relation to each other. All
Mary
LePompe's original pages were made by woodcuts and are therefore
approximations. But they were very good woodcuts, and the braid lace and
tape lace designs are easy to interpret directly if you understand the
working methods of those two forms of bobbin lace. A relative beginner at
bobbin
Weronika
If you want to prevent ink spots on your lace, draw in the markings with
permanent ink and let the pricking dry thoroughly before starting work.
Another solution is to put clear contact paper on the pricking before you
start work. The plastic film will prevent the threads from picking up
Carolina and Devon
Unfortunately I know nothing at all about the history of Spanish tape lace,
and very little about the origins of Czech and Russian tape lace. I do know
that Italy has been producing constant width tape laces since the 19th
century. And I think these are probably the recent
I'm working on a few things:
The first hankie edging from Verbeke-Billiet's volume I on Binche. I just
finished a similar one from Annick Staes' little pamphlet on Binche. It's
just Binche large snowflakes embedded in cloth stitch. It has looked so
scary for the nearly 15 years that I've had
Jenny
The project I'm working on now might be called a mistake. I set it up on my
smallest roller pillow and then discovered that it had substantial sections
where the weaver had to go all the way across the entire lace -- 29 pairs --
as is common in Binche. It drove me nuts, no room to spread
Beth
Wouldn't half a bedspread just about equal a lace stole? A nice blue summer
eveningj-going-out type dress would look nice with a lace stole.
Lorelei
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Annette
If you live in England and will be learning bobbin lace there, it might be
best to follow English practice, since that is what teachers and other
lacemakers there will be doing. English lacemakers work palms down, usually
on a Honiton pillow or a cookie shaped pillow. As far as I can
Jean
I was very interested to read your response about TC being taught in
England. I wonder if this is a rare occurrence or if it is becoming more
commonplace. It appears that change and cross fertilization goes in all
directions.
Lorelei
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of ...
and then name individual respondents.
http://www.chicagoarealaceguild.com/needlelace.htm and
http://www.loreleihalley.com/needlelace.htm
Lorelei Halley
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Linda
I always preshrink any fabric before I cut out a dress, and I even preshrink
my bobbin lace and the cloth center I attach it to, before I put the two
together. I would assume the necessity of washing the materials that go
into Carrickmacross before starting work, if you intend to wash the
Robin and Tamara and all
I think we've had similar discussions on the usefulness of diagrams before.
I think in this matter I'm closer to Robin's view than Tamara's. It may be
a function of the kinds of lace we are trying to make.
In learning a traditional form of lace which has a recognized set
Weronika
If you have concerns about copyright and are thinking about putting
adaptations up on a website, you really SHOULD go to the U.S. Copyright
office website and review it very carefully. They will give you a fair
amount of guidance. http://www.copyright.gov/ I'm not a lawyer but I can
Weronika
I have some large Danish bobbins, about 5 inches long. They are intended
for use with thicker than usual threads. They might not break fine thread,
but they are clunky and one would normally not want to use them unless
necessary. They seem to work with pearl cotton size 8 or thicker,
Jean
As I understand it, stumpwork was the art of making little 3 dimensional
figures out of lace stitches to attach to embroidered fabric. Your
experience with the C G group doesn't really surprise me. It embodies my
major objection to formal certification bodies. They tend to think they
have
I was going to suggest mongrel lace or alleycat lace, but Robin's
suggestion is much better.
Lorelei
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Lynn
Please look at two web pages I have created which show examples of
needlelace, and show how it is made:
http://www.chicagoarealaceguild.com/needlelace.htm
http://www.loreleihalley.com/needlelace.htm
The first one shows the set up and explains the working in general terms.
The second has
In regard to tape laces of c. 1640, none of those tapes would have been
machine made. Even straight tapes and shoe laces would have been hand
loomed or made with bobbins. What kind of loom, I don't know. Machine
woven cloth (or tapes) did not exist until the late 1700s. I've seen the
kind of
Santina Levey shows 4 samples of tape lace (three with needle stitches
between the tapes to hold it together) all dating from the period 1625-1650.
See her plate #131. This is just about the time you begin to see bobbin
made tape laces, such as early Milanese. Levey seems to think that tape
and happy hunting,
Lorelei Halley
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Hi
I strongly recommend against using flash in photographing lace. Even if you
don't get a whiteout, the flash obliterates all the shadows between the
threads and therefore destroys any structure. Lacemakers want to see all
the threads and how the object was made. The best way is to set up 2
Hi!
I just finished a UFO!!! I put it on the home page of my website, with
close-ups on the identification page. http://www.loreleihalley.com It
is the Perryman-Voysey raised Honiton leaf sampler, in white. I started it
in 1990 and got most of it done in the first 6 months. Then it sat on a
Helen
It is interesting to me how many people are now putting color into their
lace. Your idea of just using colored gimp is one I never thought of. I'll
have to try it. I still remember a piece in the Art Institute of Chicago's
collection, just a fragment really. It had multi colored flowers
Mary
1. I've not heard of a device such as you describe. If your pattern does
not give you a thread size the only way is to experiment. If you have some
fragments of thread from an old project use the ends to work just a small
portion of your new design to see how it looks. Don't worry about
Jeri
(I realize this note is about a week after the initial discussion.) The
value of anything in a market/economic sense is merely what somebody is
willing to pay for it. The dollar value of collector's items depends
primarily on the perception of an object as collectible. My favorite
example
Devon
I found your comments on museum collecting practices fascinating. You give
us a window into a world most of us know nothing about.
Thank you!
Lorelei
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Noelene
I have the Luxton-Fukuyama book on Honiton. Half is designs by Luxton, half
are his. All the samples were made by his wife. Both of them did a design
of grapes and grape leaves and it is interesting to see how different the
results are, and they way they chose to represent the plant
Gina
I recommend Barbara Underwood INTRODUCING TRADITIONAL BEDFORDSHIRE LACE IN
20 LESSONS, 1993 Ruth Bean, Bedford.
She begins with very simple Beds designs and explains the working in detail.
Her book will carry you from the easy to an advanced level.
Happy lacemaking!
Lorelei
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Tamara
Your peace doves are wonderful! I love the way you depicted the long wing
feathers. I can almost feel the soft flapping wings.
Lorelei
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is just pure
speculation.
Thanks for posting the pictures.
Lorelei Halley
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I have seen some Spanish floral torchon patterns, but I don't know the
original source.
Lorelei
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Dear Spiders
Many years ago I worked at an HMO in downtown Chicago, part time. I decided
to wear one of my neck laces to work as a way of advertising our upcoming
lace day. The piece I wore was NL 2, which has three flowers in ecru with
red jasper cabochons attached with needle lace cups. I
Hello Everybody.
I used to be a member of this group (from 3/01 to about 3/06). But I lost
internet access. I also used to have a website using my name as the domain
name. But I just discovered the other day that someone else is using the
lorelei halley name as a domain name. That is not me
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