Dear Noelene,  
 
Gil Dye's first book in her 4-book series about 16th and 17th century  lace 
- "Gold and Silver Edgings" - has a reproduction of lace that was  attached 
to a man's military sash (the kind that crossed his body from one  shoulder 
to the opposite waist).  There is a color picture of the  reproduction on 
the back cover.  She gives instructions for  reproducing the spangled silver 
gilt lace in the Middleton collection in  Nottingham, and she then explains 
attaching it to a modern fabric.   Assembly is explained on page 45, and 
there is a close-up photo of the edges of  the fabric with lace attached.  I 
have seen Gil wearing the sash she made,  I think when the OIDFA Congress was 
in Normandy at Caen.  The book was  published by Jean Leader's Cleveden 
Press, and perhaps a Lace Guild in Australia  will have a copy.
 
Of importance when attaching lace to any fabric:  The lace should  be of 
similar density or weight to the textile on which it will be  used.  The lace 
must be about as flimsy as the silk you describe.   Otherwise, the "vintage" 
silk will deteriorate from too much weight  and the affect of gravity.  
Perhaps the silk would support more  weight by lining it with a new fabric, 
like China silk.  In that case,  it will be the new China silk that adds 
adequate support.  Adding a  lining to a flimsy fabric is very tricky, and 
requires skill that many  people have not developed.  
 
Conservation advice:  It will have to be determined if the sewing  thread 
should be silk.  Australian Embroiderer's Guild members work  with Japanese 
silk fabrics, threads, and needles.  There may be someone to  consult nearby. 
 When working with an old textile, we do not  know if it was properly 
stored in the past and we do not know  what dyes and chemicals permanently 
reside 
in it.  If the item requires  cleaning in the future, it will be best if 
both fabric and lace are silk,  because cotton/linen are wet-cleaned in a 
completely different way.   When stored, please keep detailed information about 
this treasure with it  in an archival-quality envelope - for future owners.  
An item in that  envelope might be a print of this advice.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA 
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
 
In a message dated 6/12/2017 12:11:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
noel...@lafferty.com.au writes:

A friend  of mine is seeking advice on how to mount some lace she has made 
on
to some  fine silk fabric.   It was brought back from Japan for her, and  
the
giver says it is "vintage" silk offcut from a kimono.   It is  13" wide by
39" long.  The longer sides are woven and wont fray.   She wishes to sew her
lace, which she has made to the measurement, onto the  shorter sides.
Can anyone suggest the best method of sewing her lace on to  this flimsy  
silk
fabric?

Noelene

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