Hi Peter,
Weren't you the guy who posted recently about the rough running
problem at idle? (My memory ain't great, so I forget.) If so, don't
call the pump FUBAR yet. It may just need delivery valve seals...
about $50 for the parts AND special tool, plus an hour or two of your
time. These things
On Fri, 5 Aug 2005 09:52:36 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 8/4/2005 4:22:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I tried one time plugging in the hall socket and got a severe
thrashing from the landlady. C'mon lady its 4 amps for crying out
loud!
How many lbs does your system take and how many did you put in?
takes 2.2lbs r12/installed 28oz of 134
Did you use gauges? highlow side? pressure? ambiant temperature?
Low side after 28oz of 134 = 24psi. high side after running a bit 260+
temp measured in front of the condensor = 104+F
center
I'm with Dave on this, RR the delivery valve seals. Let us know what led
you to this conclusion. Usually, these pumps are hell for stout.
On 8/5/05, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Peter,
Weren't you the guy who posted recently about the rough running
problem at idle? (My memory ain't
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
If I am understanding correctly, the links to the suspension would be
the upper control arms, that is where the mount to. Never seen one
break though, just the ball joint goes bad.
I think what he is saying is the bolt that goes through the bushings on the UCA
that
Now we are getting somewhere. If enough of us get the local iron
listed, we can find those cars we need, no matter where it lives
On Friday, August 5, 2005, at 08:40 AM, Chuck Landenberger wrote:
Some Craigslist AZ Benzes Mostly gassers ... For anyone
interested..
Chuck
Phoenix,
Some of you may remember that I've had a long standing but
intermittent problem with run-on since owning my car (about two
years). I think I've resolved it and if so the solution was so simple.
I noticed that as the car would warm up it would shut down much more
quickly, but never immediately.
I
Makes sence. Thanks Jim.
George
-- Original message --
In a message dated 8/5/2005 4:00:00 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL
PROTECTED] writes:
Yeah I didn't see it in the Haynes manual.
Hmmm. maybe the online manual?
George,
All the oil starts out in the York
Hey Brian,
everything looks right. Did you pull a vacuum prior to filling? how long? how
many inches?
Do you know if the cycling switch is adjustable? if so you may need to bring it
down a bit and make it cycle longer.
George
-- Original message --
How many lbs does
Don,
It can be that simple. All it takes is a small vacuum leak to cause the
symptoms you describe and a loose hose will do it.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Don
Sent: Friday, August 05,
Don't forget ... I am the same idiot who reversed the vacuum lines at
the ignition switch and then spent an entire Iowa winter trying to
figure out why the car was so reluctant to start!
On 8/5/05, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Fri, 5 Aug 2005 22:08:23 -0500 Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
That's why you need a mighty vac or some sort of vacuum pump for testing out
these circuits. You could have found this in no time years ago.
But, good detective work.
Dan
I have a MightyVac.
On 8/5/05, BenzBarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
That's why you need a mighty vac or some sort of vacuum pump for testing out
these circuits. You could have found this in no time years ago.
But, good detective work.
Dan
___
For
So I see you are no longer blacklisted
Rusty Cullens wrote:
Your ole buddy Rusty certainly has them.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Peter Arnold
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2005 3:56 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] MY Injection
On Fri, Aug 05, 2005 at 07:23:31PM -0700, redghost wrote:
Now we are getting somewhere. If enough of us get the local iron
listed, we can find those cars we need, no matter where it lives
Diesel mercedes in the bay area go for stupid money. The two I've
bought somewhat locally were uncommonly
On Fri, Aug 05, 2005 at 10:08:23PM -0500, Don wrote:
Can it be that simple? All this time THAT is where the vacuum leak was. (?)
Yes. Even on lesser marques, a tiny crack or a slightly loose hose will
cause amazingly wonky (and sometimes intermittent) results. I installed
a zip tie on my
Does not start could be a hundred different (expensive) things.
Could hurt a lot.
On 8/5/05, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Says needs glow plugs, wonder if it is just the fuse? Not half bad
looking, as much as can tell from the pic.
--R
everything looks right. Did you pull a vacuum prior to filling? how long? how
many inches?
pulled vac to 26 inches for about an hour.
Do you know if the cycling switch is adjustable? if so you may need to bring it
down a bit and make it cycle longer.
Don't know.
Brian from Columbia MO
'82 240D
What I am saying is that the end of the arm (I'd call it a sway bar
link) that goes through the suspension snapped off just behind where
the threads start, underneath the rubber bushings. I'm still waiting
for a quote from my indy, but it appears, and I hope, that just the
link will need to be
Brian Baker wrote:
pulled vac to 26 inches for about an hour.
That seems a bit weak. Were you using a venturi pump or piston pump?
If you closed the valve to the pump, would the system hold vacuum,
or would air leak in?
Were you using a venturi pump or piston pump?
Piston pump. The vacuum held with valve closed.
Brian from Columbia mo
Hola amigos
I need to change the drivers side window regulator on my 1982 380SEL, only
487,000 miles, and I am looking for tips, instructions, diagrams, and any
help available. New part in hand from Rusty, just guidance and cerveza.
Gracias in advance.
--
Don Teresa Merriman
Market Place
Never a bad idea to start with the fsm:
http://mb.braingears.com/.
Pertinent info should be in the chassis manual, section 72 on disk 2.
Maybe start w/ 72-185. Sorry, no help w/ the cerveza.
joe
On 8/6/05, Don Teresa Merriman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hola amigos
I need to change the drivers
Well there are no links the whole arm is 1 piece.
Dan Weeks wrote:
What I am saying is that the end of the arm (I'd call it a sway bar
link) that goes through the suspension snapped off just behind where
the threads start, underneath the rubber bushings. I'm still waiting
for a quote from my
I've been getting spam lately from [EMAIL PROTECTED] I know I can't block
the domaingr
On Fri, 5 Aug 2005 10:06:27 -0400, TimothyPilgrim
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Oh it happens, fortunately not often. Just click report spam and
it'll be sent to your spam box for later discardation.
You guys are going to spend all weekend just figuring out what you
should be discussing. Here's a couple of pics that may help you sort
that out.
126120 front axle.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document
126120 torsion.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document
yep, thats what happens when you have these free mail places giving
away email service. They dont give anything away for free. Its kind of
like the yahoo lists, you think they just allow people to set up and run
email lists for free? Yea right, they get something out of it know it
or not.
SpamPal, http://www.spampal.org/, works to keep most of the garbage
out of my POP inbox even though I haven't updated in a while. Not
perfect but better than nothing.
joe
On 8/6/05, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've been getting spam lately from [EMAIL PROTECTED] I know I can't
A nice thought, thanks. One problem though, I use Opera. Won't work.
On Sat, 6 Aug 2005 08:31:03 -0700, Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
SpamPal, http://www.spampal.org/, works to keep most of the garbage
out of my POP inbox even though I haven't updated in a while. Not
perfect but
I stand corrected, they do support Opera.I'm reading more now.
On Sat, 06 Aug 2005 10:52:32 -0500, Luther Gulseth
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A nice thought, thanks. One problem though, I use Opera. Won't work.
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running WVO/diesel mix)
I'm afraid I agree. In Texas a car with good compression should start even
with weak glow plugs, though it might take more than one cycle of the plugs.
So if the relay is working, there is either a problem with fuel delivery
(which could be as simple as stale diesel in the tank or a plugged
You guys are going to spend all weekend just figuring out what you
should be discussing. Here's a couple of pics that may help you sort
that out.
Thanks for the definitive answer. Yikes, though. What the two
diagrams clearly show is that the torsion bar is one piece. And
according to
Kaleb'll take it off your hands if you're w/i hauling distance.
I sold used ones for about $300 each. They can be a PITA to get the
timing right.
Brian
On 8/6/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So I see you are no longer blacklisted
Rusty Cullens wrote:
Your ole buddy Rusty certainly has them.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
If it is anything like the TD, the old one just comes out and the new
one should go in the same way, fairly apparent once you open up the door
panel. A few bolts to undo, then some gyrations to get it out of the
door, gyrations to get it back in, bolt it back up. It helps to undo
the glass
Easy enough to check, although they don't let you touch the cars before
the auction. Might be a $100 or less parter, sometimes they just take
an offer. Probably over now though, would be interesting to see if it
sold or shows up again.
--R
Sunil Hari wrote:
Does not start could be a
so they dont let you touch the cars beforehand? That sucks. I need to
look into registering to bid online.
Rich Thomas wrote:
Easy enough to check, although they don't let you touch the cars before
the auction. Might be a $100 or less parter, sometimes they just take
an offer. Probably
26 does seam a little weak. Most places I have seen recommend at least 28 so
there may still be a little air in the system.
Hook up a set of gauges and run the system paying attention to the low side.
R-134 needs to cycle at about 18 PSI. You may need to wet the condensor with a
garden hose to
Don,
I replaced the RF regulator on my W116 two weeks ago and the LR
regulator today.
My experience:
1. Take off all the stuff and door panel. Be careful w/plastic
lining or use a new garbage bag with a Glue Stick when putting it all
back together.
2. Move window down about 3/4 of the
D'oh. The fix must have been a coincidence. Slow shutdown is back. I
even replaced the small section of hose, in case there was a crack in
the rubber that I couldn't see. MityVac determined that the old piece
of hose was holding pressure. The shudown box isn't.
Guess it is time to save up for a
Poked around at the PnP yesterday and found a Flintstoned 75 240D 4
speed. It has fine looking CV joints so I started in on getting them.
Then I could not remember if the gearing was the same. If I take the
whole driveline and tranny, am I good for spare parts on Gump?
--
Clay
Seattle
Good opinion!
On Sat, 06 Aug 2005 14:00:33 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
I would buy a new one, they are not very expensive.
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (Slate grey, black MBTex, WVO/D mix)
Subject:
FW: Economics and Cows
From:
Rick Stevens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date:
Fri, 5 Aug 2005 13:24:14 -0700
To:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I like the French Corporation!
DEMOCRATIC
You have two cows.
Your
I do plan to buy a new one. My comment was tongue-in-cheek.
On 8/6/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I would buy a new one, they are not very expensive.
Don wrote:
D'oh. The fix must have been a coincidence. Slow shutdown is back. I
even replaced the small section of hose,
and as i remember, you have to 'unscrew' the piece that connects to the
motor...then 'screw in' the new one...
nice to see you found your way back to the list, don
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