just wanted to tip ya off on those pay as you go cell phones, the time you
purchase has a expiration date with it. In otherwords if you don't use those
minutes you loose them
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL 108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata
-Original
Not so with Tracphone so long as you keep the service in
place. Costs about $100 per year for which you can get up to 300 minutes if
you renew when they have special promotions. Mine has far better
coverage(it works in Canada) than my wife's Sprint deal. Not for chatty
people
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300-SDL-BAD-MOTOR-DIESEL-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ4587879538QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Now at $560.
Craig
Hue!
I was wrong. I am sorry I didn't check the mounts. It looks like the
previous owner only replaced one of the mounts, and now the other
one has failed.
I did not know there was a procedure for checking them, or I sure
would have done so.
I live and learn. Thanks for trying to steer me
I just replaced the engine mounts in my '90 300D 2.5 yesterday. These
are the easiest mounts t change that I've ever worked with. The
difference is well worth the price and effort. I also replaced the
transmission mount since it was probably the same age as the engine
mounts. The left engine mount
I'm missing something here - I can't find where/how to adjust the
shift hardness on this car.
Chassis - 124.128
Engine - 602.962
Tranny - 722.418
The sifts on this car are softer than I'd like - just short of
flaring. I like a nice crisp shift under WOT.
I don't have the 124 manual, but it looks
Hello all
I am getting ready to change the tie rod and center link on my 1985 300SD.
Is there a way I can properly adjust the toe in my self? Also my steering
wheel is not properly centered. If I pull the centering plug on the gear
box and center the gear box should the steering wheel then be
The control box is on the side of the IP, has three hoses on it and
two screws in slots. loosen screws, hold throttle wide open (engine
off, since you don't want to toss a rod), rotate clockwise until you
feel slight resistance.
If that doesn't fix it you will need to adjust the modulator
never had to do it on a Benz, but the tightness of the shifts are controlled by
a spring in the modulator and on GM and some Chryslers there is a screw inside
the modulator where the vacuum line connects. To tighten the shift you turn the
screw clockwise and to soften the shift its counter
unless you have a tool to measure the distance between the front wheels to get
the factory toe in specs its best to have a alignment shop do that for you
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL 108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata
-Original Message-
From: Mike
I was planning on making one, the procedure as I envision it would be to
scribe a line down the middle of each of the front tires and measure the
distance between the lines on the front of the tire and on the rear of the
tire, the difference being the toe in. The only thing tat I am concerned
One would think it would be wiser to set the toe in the same on each side.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Mike Piles
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 11:01 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in
Well the shifts on that car will be soft, much softer than you are used
to. Those things are so complicated vacuum wise Im not aware of the
procedure for adjusting it to spec. I suppose you could just yank the
line to the tranny and plug it off.
OK Don wrote:
I'm missing something here -
Over here they are also banned while driving but police and other emergency
services have an excemption due to the nature of their work.
Hendrik
- Original Message -
From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005
You will also need to make a spreader bar, the tires MUST be pre-loaded
outward or the toe will be incorrect while driving. This will eat
tires and make it drive badly. Only a small error causes big trouble.
It will be much cheaper and easier to get it close and drive it to a
good alignment
http://chicago.craigslist.org/car/110719719.html
$8500 is 1/2 the NADA retail for this car... not in my budget, but not a bad
deal.
No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD
If I can get toe adjusted for $35.00 I'll probably do that. I didn't want
to pay for a whole alignment It was aligned last year and the parts I'm
changing will not affect the Caster/Camber. For a spreader bar I was
thinking about using one of those adjustable bars that they use to secure a
load
My job requires me to have 4WD ;-(
Bad Stuff:
This car needs paint, it has no rust. Minor damage on RR
quarter was painted poorly by PO. This was a Southern car, all the
paint is in poor shape.
Sunroof is inop, requires 425 parts and $400 labor repair
Car is ready for
Measure the distance (at hub height) between the front side of the wheels
and then the rear side. If one can get them to same length size then we have
a zero toe-in. safe to get you to the wheel alignment shop.
regards
mak
unless you have a tool to measure the distance between the front
Measure the distance (at hub height) between the front side of the wheels
and then the rear side. If one can get them to same length size then we have
a zero toe-in. safe to get you to the wheel alignment shop.
regards
mak
unless you have a tool to measure the distance between the front
It's the thing at the left side of the tranny.You can see it looking down
the right rear of the engine.
On 11/12/05, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks! Just to be sure, the modulator with the adjustment is the part
on the side of the tranny, not the source of vacuum on the back of the
IP?
Mercedes Benz SL600 ranked second worst gas guzzler convertible behind
Ferrari.
http://biz.yahoo.com/weekend/gasguzzler_1.html
--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
Mike
Take a look at this site for DIY alignment. It sounds like he my know what
he's doing but who knows.
Let us know.
http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/amc/align.htm
Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans
- Original Message -
From: Mike
If you all remember from a couple of weeks ago my 560SEL was not
charging, and non of the instrument cluster lights were coming on when
the key was turned on and before the engine started. Well I put another
alternator on it and it was charging but still no lights. Anyways,
yesterday I went
Some one was posting about toe setting questions. I found this in my archive...
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 6:36 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Re: Mercedes Digest, Vol 2, Issue 102
Or, you could jack up
Ek
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 9:59 AM
To: Banned List; Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] this weeks OMG
Not a fair. The article says And in evaluating a model's ranking, we only
considered one entry per nameplate: the least efficient one. For example, we
included Mercedes-Benz's line of SL-Class convertibles in the slide show as
some of the least efficient convertibles on the market. But only the
I suspect that would be a little harder than I'm looking for. I'd like
it to be like the SDL ---
I'll try adjusting the VCV till you feel resistance and see what happens.
On 11/12/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Well the shifts on that car will be soft, much softer than you are
Thius is a pretty good article on the MB trannies, how they work and what to
adjust.
http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic20242.html
On 11/13/05, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I suspect that would be a little harder than I'm looking for. I'd like
it to be like the SDL ---
I'll try
My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board of the local MB club, etc), is
strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
things like this...but I'd really like to run synthetic.
I know we've already
Lee Levitt wrote:
My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board of the local MB club, etc), is
strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
things like this...but I'd really like to run synthetic.
Thanks!
On 11/13/05, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thius is a pretty good article on the MB trannies, how they work and what to
adjust.
http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic20242.html
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC
The FSM created the
Lee was reported to have said My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board
of the local MB club, etc), is
strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
things like this...but I'd really like to run
Lee Levitt wrote:
My mechanic, a Mercedes guy (on the board of the local MB club, etc), is
strongly resisting my desire to convert my car to synthetic oil. He's
concerned that all manner of leaks will appear. Generally I trust him on
things like this...but I'd really like to run synthetic.
I
OK Don wrote:
I suspect that would be a little harder than I'm looking for. I'd like
it to be like the SDL ---
I'll try adjusting the VCV till you feel resistance and see what happens.
I would warm up the engine, then unhook the vacuum (and plug the source) and
take it for a brief drive. If
Alex wrote:
I'm kind of toying with getting one of these. Seems like the price of
gas is driving down the used prices of all big SUVs and such.
I had two of these. One was a 1979 with the quadra-trac FULL TIME four
wheel drive with a separate granny low. The other was an 88 with the
The Star did a rather devastating review of the new G-Wagens compared to the
earlier 80's versions. I scanned the review, but from what I saw, it makes
sense...more fluff, less substance = identity crisis for the G-Wagen.
Galendewagen means 'cross country vehicle' not 'suburban conspicuous
OK, I've tried this site in with Firefox AND IE and it doesn't work. I can get
to all the menus, but cannot pull up a single document. When people post
specific links, I can go to it just fine in Firefox.
What is wrong? I need full access to this site. Thanks.
Chris
P.S. Jason,
Christopher McCann wrote:
OK, I've tried this site in with Firefox AND IE and it doesn't work. I can get
to all the menus, but cannot pull up a single document. When people post
specific links, I can go to it just fine in Firefox.
What is wrong? I need full access to this site. Thanks.
Christopher McCann wrote:
Picked up a few bottles, mainly for the 603 in the 300TD, but figured it can't
hurt the 300SD, so will put in there too.
Since there is no cap on the radiator, but only on reserve/overflow tank, do you think it's OK to take 12 oz of 50/50 out of the over flow
good idea. will do, thanks, Marshall.
Chris
Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Christopher McCann wrote:
Picked up a few bottles, mainly for the 603 in the 300TD, but figured it
can't hurt the 300SD, so will put in there too.
Since there is no cap on the radiator, but only on
I did adjust the VCV - and it made a little bit of difference, but not
a lot. Under WOT - it takes almost a full second to complete a shift
from 1-2 or 2-3.
This the 722.418 transmission - guess I need a technical resource
with where to measure what, etc. I don't think I have a gauge that
will
IE works better than Firefox, but is still far from everything except some 126
pages...do I need to change a in IE?
Thanks, Chris
Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Christopher McCann wrote:
OK, I've tried this site in with Firefox AND IE and it doesn't work. I can
get to all the
Chris,
Forget that site if it doesn't work... try this one instead:
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html
The Braingears site tries to use the silly Macromedia fluff. All you
need is the PDF files. Or, just download the CD images from one of the
FTP sites that are run by list
$25/yr to subscribe - does anybody - is it worth it?
Thanks, Chris
Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972
OK, How do I do that? I need 115, 124 and 126.
Chris
Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chris,
Forget that site if it doesn't work... try this one instead:
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html
The Braingears site tries to use the silly Macromedia fluff. All you
need is the PDF
Hi team
Thanks for the discussion on synthetic oils and for your patience in
answering the same questions again and again.
Down here in the colonies, the only Mobil synthetic oils available are
Mobil 1 5W-50
Mobil 1 0W-40
Mobil 1 10W-30
Mobil 1 15W-50
Marshall's recommended Mobil 1 Truck and
Christopher McCann wrote:
OK, How do I do that? I need 115, 124 and 126.
I don't know of a 114/115 site online that works. mb.braingears.com
doesn't have the 114/115 images.
I do suggest http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html for the
123/126 images (the 114/115 and 201s don't
Marshall's recommended Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W-40 is not available.
I have been using the Mobil 1 15-50 extended service for over 100K with no
problems. I will swith to 5-40 Mobile one next time only because I can now
get it.
Regards Tom
- Original Message -
From: Euan [EMAIL
No, not the insertables or the inflatables.
In all this recent discussion of synthetic oils, there has been no talk of
the alternatives. In NZ, the only other option is AMSOIL.
Any views on this as an alternative to MOBIL 1?
Cheers
Euan
1985 300TD 5-spd manual
199K miles
[Shell Helix
Right, what are the FTP sites?
thanks, Chris
Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Christopher McCann wrote:
OK, How do I do that? I need 115, 124 and 126.
I don't know of a 114/115 site online that works. mb.braingears.com
doesn't have the 114/115 images.
I do suggest
Euan wrote:
No, not the insertables or the inflatables.
In all this recent discussion of synthetic oils, there has been no talk of
the alternatives. In NZ, the only other option is AMSOIL.
Any views on this as an alternative to MOBIL 1?
Mobil supplies all the base oil used in Amsoil.
Woodward is about 30 miles or so away from us. Deb and I drove over to
Woodward to see the damage there. Really scary -- looks like one square
block was smashed, with houses across the streets untouched, almost as if a
tornado touched down, kicked butt, then picked up and moved on. The Casey's
I don't see it there either, but cold engine + high coolant pressure
usually means a cracked head --
On 11/13/05, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I think Dave M posted a link to an article on this site on the OM603 cold
engine/high coolant pressure problem...but I can't find
the modulator is on the drivers side, on the side of the tranny right
above the pan.
OK Don wrote:
I did adjust the VCV - and it made a little bit of difference, but not
a lot. Under WOT - it takes almost a full second to complete a shift
from 1-2 or 2-3.
This the 722.418 transmission -
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