If that's the case, then sounds like the right way to do it!
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 3:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Trannie Flush Technique
I don't think
I have a question. Is it safe to assume that a given engine will produce the
maximum number of revolutions per unit of fuel consumed at its torque peak?
I.E. When is an engine its most efficient? Just curious.
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wed May 10 23:41:24 2006
OK, y'all remember the saga of the pepto in the tranny of my 190D.
Swapped the radiator out, got all the junk cleaned out and tranny fluid
looks fine. Drove it for about 3 weeks and no more pepto. Car has been
sitting for about 3 weeks or so and I just now checked today and its
full of pepto
Rick Knoble wrote:
I have a question. Is it safe to assume that a given engine will produce the
maximum number of revolutions per unit of fuel consumed at its torque peak?
I.E. When is an engine its most efficient? Just curious.
I recall hearing that Mercedes recommends shifting at 2/3 of
On Wed, May 10, 2006 at 07:57:37PM -0400, John Ervine wrote:
Rick Knoble wrote:
I have a question. Is it safe to assume that a given engine will produce
the maximum number of revolutions per unit of fuel consumed at its torque
peak? I.E. When is an engine its most efficient? Just curious.
If the vent is missing from the top of the tranny, condensate/rainwater
from the AC can get it if it drips on top of the tranny. Shouldn't,
but anything is possible, I've discovered.
Peter
Kevin wrote:
The number I always heard in american gassers was peak torque plus 10% was
where maximum efficiency was found. No idea about anything specific from
MBZ.
I suspect for gas engines it's more complicated than that -- it would
depend on throttle position, which would depend on
How about drying out the tranny cooler part, leaving it open, or
connected to a jar, then filling and pressurizing the radiator - see
any water comes out the tranny cooler line connections --
Is there anyway I can check a radiator while its out of
the car to see if its leaking fluid into the
WDBAB33A4EA040053
Bruce Sandy
Our Biodiesel site
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieseltolarea
Our Home Web site
http://home.toltbbs.com/kb8dil/
You may need to flush it out a time or two more to get all the residue out.
I had one zf hp22 trans that had been off a car for a few years. Took
the valve body off and cleaned the daylights out of everything. Still
needed to flush it about three times until the pink quit coming back.
Do the
Is there some way that rain water can get into the tranny while the car is
just sitting?
Did you leave 'er in the crik again? Or is she upside down with the trans pan
off?
RLE
thats probably a good idea
OK Don wrote:
How about drying out the tranny cooler part, leaving it open, or
connected to a jar, then filling and pressurizing the radiator - see
any water comes out the tranny cooler line connections --
Is there anyway I can check a radiator while its out of
Vehicle History Checklist
Vehicle Description WDBAB33A4EA040053
Title Check No records found
Problem Check No records found
Odometer Check No records found
Vehicle Information No records found
Full History Records found
Title Check
Your vehicle checks out!
Abandoned No Abandoned Records Found
I already had it cleaned out and it was fine for several weeks. What I
have now was not just a little residue from before, its as bad as before
so its a new contamination episode.
Robert Tara Ludwick wrote:
You may need to flush it out a time or two more to get all the residue out.
I had
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-1987-87-turbo-charge-300-d-parts-car-n-r_W0QQitemZ8065293886QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
76 240D, 76
Yep, it has a brand new turbo buster on it. I gots ta git me wunnadem.
--R
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-1987-87-turbo-charge-300-d-parts-car-n-r_W0QQitemZ8065293886QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
just looks like ass. i think I'd pay $100 for it.
On 5/10/06, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yep, it has a brand new turbo buster on it. I gots ta git me wunnadem.
--R
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
It's Amendment 2.1 in the US Constitution.
--R
Jeff Zedic wrote:
I don't know where it's written that fuel HAS to be cheap!
Awwh come on, give him a break it's just about hay time.
Hendrik
not as many cars as you but getting there
- Original Message -
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes mailing list
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 11:44 AM
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 21:17:11 -0400
From: Bruce Lulfs [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] VIN check please
WDBAB33A4EA040053
Bruce Sandy
Here you go!
Omar.
Your AutoCheck Vehicle History Report
Report Run Date: 05/11/2006
Vehicle Description: WDBAB33A4EA040053
TitleCheck: No
It's like he was jokingly writing that way. He knew how to spell half,
only he used it in place of have. I would expect someone to write hav or
haf or hafta. Must have had to write that word on the blackboard 50
times.
Brian
On 5/10/06, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Awwh come on,
You're right. It's just that's its regarding a Honda. But it is quite
relevant, I agree.
Brian
On 5/10/06, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Why is this thread labeled OT??? I think it is very much ON topic!
On 5/10/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If that's the
Do you guys talk about WVO too?
Brian
On 5/10/06, Bruce Lulfs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
WDBAB33A4EA040053
Bruce Sandy
Our Biodiesel site
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieseltolarea
Our Home Web site
http://home.toltbbs.com/kb8dil/
___
On 5/10/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-1987-87-turbo-charge-300-d-parts-car-n-r_W0QQitemZ8065293886QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
That's pretty sad. It's one thing to let a 123 get to that condition, but
the '87 300D
it has a brand new turbo buster on it.
Wunder if wunnadem there thangs'd fit own ma 300CD? Hahaha!
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
Giesela, 1981 300CD 204K miles
Bear with me, I won't delve into brands and such quag. But do have a few
basic questions.
It's going to be the first time I'll change fluids and filters on the 240D
since finally taking possession of it.
1) How often do I change the fuel filters? I know - it depends. But the
thing is from
Gotta ask too:
On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of pulling
the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and when
filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the hole?
This is the method on what I grew up on - American
Brian,
1) Both every 30k miles or sooner if required (clogged fuel filters can
actually degrade your fuel efficiency - if you see a drop in mileage,
filter change may be in order). Carry a spare clear filter in glove box
- when the one in the fuel line plugs up, car will not start or will run
So I know I've seen stuff on the lists about these things having problems,
but never paid attention because I thought ownership was out of the
question. I recently came across a fine specimen, however and wish to be
enlightened about general maintenance and common problems.
The car is a 1995
The right inside axle boot on my '83 300D has a big split in it and it has
thrown out quite a bit of grease.
The differential is still full of oil.
There has been a noise when the car is neither accellerating nor
decellerating that sounds like the noise an old Chevy differential often
makes:
Gerry,
Depending on your preference, either get a good used OE joint (boots
still intact and decent looking is criteria to meet) or get a new joint
from Rusty. Rebuilt/aftermarket joints have very poor reliability. The
labor and parts required to simply change the boots approaches the cost
of a
Thanks, Meade. It sounds like my best bet is a good used half axle with
good boots from Kaleb or Potomac. When I turn the right rear wheel there
isn't any play between the cans and the axle shaft or the drive shaft.
I wonder if the differential type hum I hear could be coming from the
Gerry,
More commonly the noise is an axle or the diff. mount. After 23 years,
if that mount is original, it surely is dead and the rubber is hard as a
rock. 'Tis a relatively easy job (need a pretty big socket to remove
the mount from the diff) and the mount-to-body screws are supposed to be
Hopefully it's the axle, which a replacement will correct. If not, I'll
take it to my mechanic who is pretty good at diagnosis. Thanks again.
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D
- Original Message -
From: Dillon, Meade LCDR [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
I know the DAS-3 (and DAS-2) fobs are car/chassis specific .. the
switchblades you just stick in the ignition and wait.. the plastic keys...
dealer.
Reprogramming them to work on another car... thats why there are so many
of them on ebay for cheap. They are usable for the plastic casings only.
same procedure. every 30,000 miles IIRC.
On 5/11/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Gotta ask too:
On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of
pulling
the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and
when
filling, is it a matter of
ALL the wiring in the engine compartment is as they say bio-degradeable
under the hood. Inclusive of main engine harness, injection harness, ETA
harness(s), starter harness, ASR and ADS harness's. Also depending on the
injection system the ETA harness OR the potentometer in the ETA on one or
both
3) Manual Transmission Fluid: The manual says to use Engine oil SAE
10 W/20
W-20. So this is telling me to use either 10W20 or to use straight 20
weight? The way it's written is a bit unclear. Again here, just follow
TFM?
I ask because I've heard of using ATF in the manual tranny, and I've
Could the right side differential bearing be making the noise or can a
bad
axle shaft make that sort of noise or is it most likely the
differential
ring gear/pinion?
Having actually had a bad differential in that 240D of mine,
the noise it made was good old-fashioned gear whine that while
not
The only problem is the filter isn't being changed. If you've got crud
clogging up the filter, the flush either leaves it there or pulls it
on through the filter. Both are bad.
I took my daughter's Pathfinder in for a 60K service one time when she
was in a hurry and I couldn't fdo it. I
You do want to make sure they're still changing the filter. They USED to do
it at the quick lube around here as part of the service, but now it's a
Jiffy-lube and they don't want to get internal, though for an extra $60 or
something they will usually do it.
If I recall correctly the way they
Replacing the filter first is really the way to do it. Unfortunately,
what I've observed is that the lazy SOBs use the machine when they
DON'T want to go to the trouble of dropping the pan and replacing the
filter.
Whichever way you go, make sure you understand what you're paying for
before the
I went a long time before I trusted myself to replace the fuel filters in my
240D, usedta pay my Indy to do it. Now I've done them in both the 240D and my
190D, the 240D is MUCH easier! Get Rusty to send you a can of diesel purge or
pickup a can of PowerService Diesel Kleen to fill the filter
Dieselvolk,
Anyone know if this technique of flushing is approved for our cars?
Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold*
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/20060511/69cbbd0a/sheets83.obj
The Flex-Fuel vehicles sold in Brazil are shipped with a small second gas
tank designed to contain gasoline. The winters in Brazil get cold enough to
cause starting problems when running ethanol. The car's electronics automate
the gasoline purge on shutdown.
-Dave Walton
94S350, 99E300
On
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-Mercedes-Benz-300_W0QQitemZ4637699083QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu May 11 15:53:04 2006
Received: from sccrmhc12.comcast.net ([63.240.77.82])
by
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Gotta ask too:
On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of pulling
the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and when
filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the hole?
This is the method on what I grew
Dillon, Meade LCDR wrote:
Dieselvolk,
Anyone know if this technique of flushing is approved for our cars?
NO, it's NOT approved and is unwise UNLESS you want to try it before
replacing a transmission that is failing (it MIGHT flush out something
that's causing a problem, but that's
Rich Thomas wrote:
It's Amendment 2.1 in the US Constitution.
It actually talks about oats and hay, but you have to consider the
original intent. ;)
--R
Jeff Zedic wrote:
I don't know where it's written that fuel HAS to be cheap!
___
No PS on Gump, so no fluids there. Use the MB stuff on the e300D
Fuel filters I change when they get balky or black. In AZ, I would
think that the temp change from day to night would have enough variance
to cause some dew/condensation in the tank. I have found that 10-15k
miles is standard
Gump has fresh M1 in her rear. Have no idea how long the stuff had
been there, but she is much nicer with M1. Simple 90 weight went in
after sucking the old stuff out. Same thing for the e300D. Remove top
bolt, then bottom, then suck it all out. Install drain plug, fill to
leak out the
Tarek Elshenawy wrote:
So I know I've seen stuff on the lists about these things having problems,
but never paid attention because I thought ownership was out of the
question. I recently came across a fine specimen, however and wish to be
enlightened about general maintenance and common
Jim Cathey wrote:
Could the right side differential bearing be making the noise or can a
bad
axle shaft make that sort of noise or is it most likely the
differential
ring gear/pinion?
Having actually had a bad differential in that 240D of mine,
the noise it made was good old-fashioned
Clay thought aloud:
In AZ, I would
think that the temp change from day to night would have enough variance
to cause some dew/condensation in the tank.
Mr. Jim and Chuck may have more emperical data but in my 25 years here in AZ
I can't ever recall a moisture caused fuel problem. After you
Well I tore into mu 85 300D with the non-turning front crank pulley,
discovered the big bolt must have backed out and sheared off the 2
keyways. Not a problem, they are part of the balancer assembly, not the
crank. Have an engine sitting in the garage and need to pull the
assembly off it.
BFH?
~Well I tore into mu 85 300D with the non-turning front crank pulley,
~discovered the big bolt must have backed out and sheared off the 2
~keyways. Not a problem, they are part of the balancer assembly, not the
~crank. Have an engine sitting in the garage and need to pull the
~assembly
Well I just checked the CD and it says something about a puller. Crap,
I dont have a puller.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
BFH?
~Well I tore into mu 85 300D with the non-turning front crank pulley,
~discovered the big bolt must have backed out and sheared off the 2
~keyways. Not a problem, they
Looks like a 1987 300D is coming up for auction in Arlington this
week. Would be interesting to see what it goes for.
http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=13472vType=1
Gary Thompson
Georgetown, TX
1995 E320
It so easy I'm surprised you didn't think of it. Just put everything
back together minus the big bolt and drive it around until just before
it falls of and shears the keys.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday,
What a weird listing. No mention of whether each one, neither or one of
them runs.
On 5/11/06, Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-Mercedes-Benz-300_W0QQitemZ4637699083QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
No affiliation, ect.
Rick
Oats and hay... the fuel of the future!
On 5/11/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Rich Thomas wrote:
It's Amendment 2.1 in the US Constitution.
It actually talks about oats and hay, but you have to consider the
original intent. ;)
--R
Jeff Zedic wrote:
I don't know where
And from the byproducts, one can create methane to heat the house! You may
recall that the automobile with its
internal combustion engine was once hailed as the saviour of mankind because it
was going to do away with the then
version of pollution. You can imagine the volume in a place the size
Hello,
It is Ben Maggos from St. Louis. Can you call me and well talk about
the best way for me to get a hood, grill, and transmission for my 1986 MErcedes
300 SDL. OR email me your number and I'll call you. My number is 314-898-2404.
I live in the 63116 area code.
Ben
You would know better than me. I just drive through the state, never
stay long enough to know climactic conditions. Around this neck of the
nation, desert areas have about a 22*F temp drop, and may have some
condensation over a long period. Never had the issue myself.
On Thursday, May 11,
That would be a wonderful method for localized power generation. Just
make methane digesters for large buildings. Sweep the poop off the
road and into the furnace. Natural gas and composting heat.
On Thursday, May 11, 2006, at 12:27 PM, R A Bennell wrote:
And from the byproducts, one can
Great help, all. But I think something conflicts here: I've heard that no,
you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause
front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear, yes,
do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug.
In
http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=13472vType=1
I'm thinkin' if the car is on a level surface, there is no way you can
overfill because it will start running out the fill hole.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 153K
Litchfield Park, AZ
- Original Message -
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I read somewhere (TimeMag??) recently that rural China is essentially run on
that basis. All waste is recycled via
a rudimentary bio-digester - composter type setups. The waste produces methane
used for heating and cooking
purposes. A more civilized version could reduce the need for oil / gas in
Here's what I've done with three MBs - fill till it's flowing out the top,
wait for it to stop flowing out the fill hole, replace plug. Make sure
you're on a level surface with all four wheels on the ground.
If you're not using some sort of hose to fill it (meaning you're squirting
the oil
One way to find out would be to fill to the point where the fluid runs out
while the vehicle is on its wheels and
then check to see how much fluid was actually poured in. The compare volume
with what MB says should be in there.
Best guess is that it will be about the same amount but if you
you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause
front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear,
yes,
do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug.
...
Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain
AND
Marshall - overflow hole??? There's one of those? And how do you
check if
it's clogged? How do you unclog it?
There is a vent on the top of the differential, and it can get clogged.
They just unscrew, you can then clean them out. Make sure you clean off
the top of the differential first so
What's the access port on top of the diff? 14mm hex, 5mm allen, 10mm
socket, what?
And what's this pump oil can Loren mentioned? I had to use a length of
heater hose and it sucked.
On 5/11/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What they said, and if you can't find an easier way to get
75 matches
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