Sorry about the incorrect time.
I modified the T-stat by bending about 1/2 of the radiator flap up and creating
a gap for constant flow.
I ran it on just water to check for leaks at the t-stat and other hoses, then I
dumped a bottle of Prestone flush in and drove it around the neighborhood in
Do you still have the silicone oil? I might take a shipment of that
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 16:36:58 -0600, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
the radiator isn't hot enough to cause the clutch to engage. Lower
hose is cool to the touch, top is HOT. I am also not getting very
much heat in
why do it the hard way? Take the radiator out, and let a radiator shop
clean it and verify good flow.
I suspect that your t-stat mod might be causing more problem than
help, if it can't close the bypass port (don't know whether the bent
part prevents that or not).
On 10/29/06, Luther Gulseth
Seems to be the project of the day ...
Anyway, I've set about to use the 5 pounds of citric acid I purchase
awhile back and have been de-oiling and descaling the cooling system of
our 617.912 W123.
Yesterday, I drained the antifreeze, put in an ond thermostat that
didn't close entirely and
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:02:42 -0700 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Today, I put in 4.5 cups (at 120 g/cup) of citric acid
Oops. Make that 120 g/one-half cup (240 g/cup).
Craig
Not everyone has $'s like you :) I'm thinking of making an adapter so I
can apply regulated air pressure to the radiator and blow the clogged stuff
out. Our water here doesn't have very high pressure.something about being
rural and on top of a hill.
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:56:32
Well - it's not the first time that conventional wisdom has been shown
to be wrong ---
Thanks for the information!
FWIW - I just looked up the coolant system cleaning instructions for
117, 617, and 603 engines - all in the 20-015 section of the CD.
Only the 603 calls for the special tool to
How are you filling it?
Are you pumping the upper rad hose and crimping the small line to the
reservoir? If not, you only have about a gallon in a two gallon system
and it's gonna run hot!
To purge, squeeze the upper radiator hose flat, then crimp the small
line to the reservoir, then let
Decalcification calls for 100grams per liter -
100 grams is 3.5 oz. (dry). A liter is approx. a quart. So, for 2
gallons of citric acid solution, I'd dissolve 2 pounds of citric acid
in 2 gallons. It should be close enough.
On 10/29/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Sun, 29 Oct
I fill in the top radiator hose until it trickles out the radiator neck. I
also have a Prestone flush tee installed where the block2heater core line is by
the oil filter. I've run the car with the water hose attached there to flush
the system before adding the flush.
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006
what about liquid citric acid??
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 20:32:00 -0600, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Decalcification calls for 100grams per liter -
100 grams is 3.5 oz. (dry). A liter is approx. a quart. So, for 2
gallons of citric acid solution, I'd dissolve 2 pounds of citric acid
in 2
Well, it did cost $55.00 to have the 107 radiator cleaned last time --
but that was small change compared to the rest of the engine
rebuilding project, and cheap insurance.
I have adopted the fill from the upper radiator hose process, and it
has resulted in fewer troublesome bubbles to burp.
I
You want a 10% solution (100 grams acid to 1000 grams (1 liter)
water)-- read the label, find out what you have, and dilute to a
resulting 10%. I've never run across liquid citric acid, except as a
component in commercial cleaning solutions. I buy the solid citric
acid in 10 lb. buckets from
Luther, won't work.
The crud clogging the rad is aluminum phosphate corrosion, most likely
(unless you are really lucky and it's only carbonate and will clean out
LONG soaking in citric acid). Aluminum phosphate deposits are pretty
much impossible to remove when accessable, let along inside
Do the hose shuffle to be sure.
Peter
Crack the head? I'm fairly certain that's already done due to the vapor that
is constantly flowing from an open pressure cap.
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 20:48:14 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Luther, won't work.
The crud clogging the rad is aluminum phosphate corrosion, most
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 21:32:00 -0500 OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Decalcification calls for 100grams per liter -
100 grams is 3.5 oz. (dry). A liter is approx. a quart. So, for 2
gallons of citric acid solution, I'd dissolve 2 pounds of citric acid
in 2 gallons. It should be close enough.
I
Serious underfilling will also give you steam, since the head isn't
full yet -- a much better situation.
Pressure cold is a better indication of cracks in the head.
Peter
Great! I was going to do that -- you beat me to it.
Nine half-cups gives 1080 g, which is quite close to the 1100 grams my 11
liter cooling system would take.
Now everyone else knows a half-cup of citric acid is 120 grams and can
scoop out accordingly.
Craig
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
it's deffinately NOT steam, to light and wispy for steam.
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 21:06:37 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Serious underfilling will also give you steam, since the head isn't
full yet -- a much better situation.
Pressure cold is a better indication of cracks in
Jim Cathey said:
Thanks for the advice. I have a friend making me some suitable plug to
plug cables since I don't have a good crimp tool. The plugs are on the
way
from Rusty. I still may attempt to use 4 of the 5 spots on my 300D glow
plug relay at some point in the future, but there would
On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 00:02:04 -0500 (EST) Kevin J. Slater
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I asked about the downside to having 2 wires to one plug (I was
concerned about it wearing out faster) and he reminded me that the
current flow is controlled by the resistor in the circuit, not by the
amount of
Do you still have the silicone oil? I might take a shipment of
that
I parceled it all out, and only have the same amount left as I shipped
to each customer. In other words, I still have my share, which is
enough
to fool with many clutches. Given my collection of aging beasts, I
think
component in commercial cleaning solutions. I buy the solid citric
acid in 10 lb. buckets from http://www.chemistrystore.com/ . Certainly
not the least expensive after you add in the shipping, but the
easiest.
I bought mine at a local (commercial) baking supply store.
-- Jim
His thought on how to connect it was to just take the 5th wire and
connect it to one of the other 4 plugs so that one plug would have 2
wires
going to it. This way the comparison circuit would be fooled into
seeing
the same value on all 5 lines.
Won't work, IMHO. The comparison circuit is
Listers,
My brother is looking at some 88-89 300SEL's. Any flags or common
recurring problems? Overall judgment of the model? TIA
Dwight
Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + + miles-Green Goddess
1990 300D 2.5t, 135K miles-The Princess
Wickford, RI
Personally I would go with the 420SEL or 560SEL, the 300's are just too
underpowered and the 420SEL will give more power and same mileage.
Other than that there have been several posts about common problems with the
W126, as such I will not list here.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From:
When you order new radiator, make sure that it has reinforced upper radiator
hose neck. The cheap one from Rusty that I got for my gasser W126 was not
reinforced. I would have gotten more expensive one if I knew that cheap one
was not reinforced.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
So I was driving the 240D the other night and needed to turn on the
defroster (it has manual controls) and I detected the sweet smell of
coolant. I can't recall, but I seem to remember that the heater core for
W123's is in a bad place, a place that's really hard to get to. The
coolant level hasn't
Conventional wisdom is true on this one but its still odd...
When the coolant is cold the car will be okay with no thermostat.
Once its warmed up it'll over heat just like a stuck thermostat. Wierd but true.
-Curt
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:02:42 -0700
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
OK-thanks.
Dwight
Bissell Cove Quahog Auto Salvage Co.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Trampas
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 8:34 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 SEL questions
Personally I would go with the
Let's all vote Larry T for Jaloponist of the Year with that amazingly
cost-effective solution.
On 10/28/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks, Larry. I'll consider the liquid nails next.
Brian
On 10/28/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don't know if this will work in your
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 22:44:06 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Do you still have the silicone oil? I might take a shipment of
that
It's not hard to come by, but you have to buy a gallon of it and
shipping just about doubles the price.
So, where does one come by it?
And for
At the risk of starting another fuel thread, I wanted to know more about
the ULSD. I fueled up the 300D 2.5t Friday ($2.59/gal) and noticed
that the Shell station now has the new ultra low # 2. Inside the
station, they had a Shell pamphlet of Q A about ULSD-much of what has
been covered on
Hear! Hear! I cast my vote for Larry.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 8:41 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust
Let's all vote Larry T for
The people that pay for the studies will never let us look at them.
They will only release partial, if any, info as it fits their needs.
BP switched over to ULSD many months ago without telling anyone. I
went to a BP reunion last month and heard that there were in fact some
issues. BP ended up
Shouldn't you first ask for submissions of the most jalopical improvements
to Mercedes and then take a vote? I've heard descriptions of some on this
group which would make any innovative mechanic proud. Larry Ts Liquid Nails
project will no doubt be among the top contenders because of its
It is my understanding is that it is mostly lawyer talk to cover themselves
in the case of problems or even PERCEIVED problems that a switch to ULSD
would cause during the US switch. This is based on a similiar experiance
with a switch in Europe. At first, the techniques which had been used to
I bought 12,500 centistoke oil from thechemistrystore.com
Closest they had to the 6-7k oil that is supposedly what
you really need. Maybe.
-- Jim
Hi Kevin.
Check the mixer valve assy on the firewall (located behind the trans
dipstick on firewall) and check hose connections as Jim suggested. Other
than that I can't help - but I may have the WSM instructions I may be able
to send to you, once I figure out how.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74
Got back about midnight last night. Thanks to Rusty for hosting another
greaty party this year. Now if we could just get him and Hurst out to
an OkieQ...
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
84
Do a search on ebay too if you need citric acid. I guess people use it in
bubble baths and such. I would not know I am married...
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 1:45 AM
Subject:
While walking down the street one day a US senator is tragically hit by a
truck and dies.
His soul arrives in heaven and is met by St. Peter at the entrance.
Welcome to heaven, says St. Peter. Before you settle in, it seems there
is a problem. We seldom see a high official around these parts,
$139.00 from me.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stuart Saxonberg
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 4:11 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister
So, I was changing my oil yesterday (w115 300D).
Today, I topped
We can only hope this is true!
But I'll vote regardless -
;-)
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche
So I drove the 1985 300SD for 300 miles the other day. No problems.
Next morning, I start the car, need to depress the accelerator to get it to
start (it was not cold out) and once started, if I left off the pedal, it
would stall. After holding it at normal idle for a minute or so, it
Wow, that really makes me want to exercise my right to vote and be lied to.
Lovely.
--
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car
Quoting Frank Pembleton [EMAIL
Or we could get Jack-Daniels to move the date of their invitational BBQ so
that I could attend..
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006
You'll get lied to either way, at least this way you get to pick the
ones you want, more or less.
--R
Luther wrote:
Wow, that really makes me want to exercise my right to vote and be lied to.
Lovely.
Well, to self-campaign:
I have discovered that my JB Weld is holding my pipe to the body of my
cylidrical muffler (despite rust). I applied it to the ends of the
pipe first, then shoved it in, then liberally applied it around the
diameter. Then used two beer cans, crushed to the correct height,
Oh, then there's the gluing of my dash trim, (some of which was bowed
out and hanging off, and some of which was all the way off), using a
mixture of dollar store super glue and Gorilla Glue (owing to the
super glue's quick bonding time, and the Gorilla's better long term
bonding strength).
The
As I think of it my '83 240D used to once in awhile put the sweet smell of
antifreeze into the air now and again, usually after a long period of not using
it. Usually went away in a few minutes. Never got any worse in the 3 years I
had the car.
I HATE stops leaks. Only good for plugging
Must be an item that is seldom damaged and thus needed. I bought the oil pan
and it did not cost anywhere near that
much.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:40 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
used ones are much cheaper
R A Bennell wrote:
Must be an item that is seldom damaged and thus needed. I bought the oil pan
and it did not cost anywhere near that
much.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty
Sent: Monday, October
Last Thursday was a pretty nice day here and I am glad that I took advantage of
it. I took the afternoon off and my
mother and I went for a ride in the old 300D. We did a circle tour of part of
southern Manitoba. Went from Winnipeg
out southwest through Carman and then west past Stephenfield and
Gee, he says tongue in cheek, I wonder where one could get a used one?
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 3:16 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister
used
How do I get into my wireless Linksys router? No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to. See, what happened, is the
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless
router. So the
Oh, I might have them maybe if one would want me to check, perhaps.
R A Bennell wrote:
Gee, he says tongue in cheek, I wonder where one could get a used one?
Randy
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84
I know my D-Link wireless provides an option for remote access; to set it up
though, you need to connect to it. If I understand your setup correctly,
there are 2 ways you could accomplish this with your linksys, assuming its
similiar to my D-link. The first would be hook a computer directly
i don't know, but send me those damn pictures from saturday
On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
How do I get into my wireless Linksys router? No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to. See, what happened, is the
internet port on the router went out
Kaleb,
Connect just the wireless, linksys, to the PC and nothing else. Then hit
reset button linksys and try 192.168.0.1 and 192.168.1.1, one of them should
work.
With the netgear in loop it may not route the 192.1.68.1.1 to the linksys
correctly.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From:
Pictures? From Saturday? I wanna see
Bob Rentfro
- Original Message -
From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT, router
i don't know, but send me those damn pictures from
mine came with a disk . it said install this disk before connecting
then i connected
now i have wireless over my vast holdings
On 10/30/06, Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb,
Connect just the wireless, linksys, to the PC and nothing else. Then hit
reset button linksys and try
Gump has decided to destroy her rear flex disk. I am thinking about
what else I need for my Rusty order. Should I do the whole drive shaft
with center bearing and both disk?
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel
Wow! How did you catch it in time before it vibrated things to pieces!?
i've heard of anything from broken transmissions and difs and the driveshaft
itself being destroyed by a bad blex disk. I've never replaced one on the
cars I've owned, so I guess I've been lucky.
Kevin in Hillsboro
I recall it being a kind of growl/whrrr/vibe thing.
You'll know.
Bob Rentfro
- Original Message -
From: kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Flex disk change
Wow! How did you
yea sort of. I did hook a computer directly to the linksys and still
could not access it though.
Michael Hall wrote:
I know my D-Link wireless provides an option for remote access; to set it up
though, you need to connect to it. If I understand your setup correctly,
there are 2 ways you
Yea, Im going to get those up on okiebenz soon.
Gary Hurst wrote:
i don't know, but send me those damn pictures from saturday
On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
How do I get into my wireless Linksys router? No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to.
Then your Ethernet port may in fact be broken, unless other drivers software
are necessary to access the router as someone else has suggested. Most user
manuals are available online, try to find out if thats the case. If not,
you may have to use the port forwarding.
Mike
On 10/30/06, Kaleb C.
What I ended up doing just now was taking the dlink out of the picture,
hooking up to the linxsys, and hitting the rest button. I could then go
in and change my wireless settings etc like I want. Hooked both back
upo again and reboot them. No internet and cant get into the dlink.
Took the
I was stupid and lucky.
Drove about 85 miles with it like that at highway speeds. Got home and
took a peek to see if the muffler was busted since the noise was on
acceleration at higher speed. No low speed noise, but get into third
and get noise.
Not quite all shredded, but on the way.
Really sounded like I had blown out the exhaust and was having flaming
fuel blowing out the underside of the car. A growly, rumbly thing
On Oct 30, 2006, at 2:58 PM, Bob Rentfro wrote:
I recall it being a kind of growl/whrrr/vibe thing.
You'll know.
Bob Rentfro
- Original Message
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