Hey, all -
Just recently my parking brake (in my 1976 300d w115) stopped indicating
it's on. I know the bulb is good (because the car's had a floating ground
since the day I got it, while I'm starting up and the battery light is lit,
the brake light lights faintly... and still does), so that
Finally, I've decided to take the plunge and repad my seats - the horsehair
is just terminally gone.
I intend to buy some nice upholstery foam and dig in - does anyone who's
done it have an idea what thickness of foam I should be looking for, and any
hints about proper technique to get a good
Mitch and Jim: Yeah, I did hit the hazard switch before it happened, as a
matter of fact. I'll pull and clean it tonight, see if that fixes things.
That explanation makes sense, now that I think of it and get reminded that I
*did* touch the thing...
Larry: Already done, not long after I got the
It was, of course, the hazard switch.
Thanks to everyone who told me that (and boo to me for *having had the
problem before and completely forgotten*).
Stuart S.
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Hi, guys!
Yesterday, driving home, my turn signals (1976 300D, w115) quite suddenly
stopped working (with no flakiness beforehand or other indications of any
issues).
(Previously, my turn signal relay failed, and I temporarily* have a generic
thermal blinker in its place, but it's unclear
So, say you have a w115 where you've worked on the A/C system.
And now it works fine with heat, but when you go to A/C, it's all broken -
you only get air out the floor vents.
The problem, it turns out, is not that you've mucked up the flaps while
reassembling the airbox.
The problem
Oh, *lovely*.
I was hoping it was just air-filled, because I'm pretty sure I can manage to
silver-solder a cap on it, since I've done my share of delicate soldering.
But charging it with Freon or the like, is not in my skill set.
I guess a nice non-fragile easy-to-work-with *thermocouple* would
Hi, list!
Part A)
I've figured out my why don't I get cold air? question - it's not because
the actuator wasn't hooked up (it was), but because I'm losing all my nice
cold air out the sides of the airbox! (Which also explains why I don't get
as much hot air as I thought I should.)
Turns
Hi again, everyone - (And thanks to everyone who gave their input about tape
and grease a few days ago)
I've got my car ('76 300D, w115) back together (mostly, but more on that in
another mail later), and glory of glories, I have a working heater fan that
puts out lots and lots of air, when
Hi, list!
I took the plunge and ripped apart my 300D (w115) to replace the heater fan,
and before putting it all BACK together, I want to do some maintenance, and
I have a few questions:
1) I want to lubricate the HVAC slider cables; does it matter much what
I use? Plain lithium
Thanks for the input, everyone.
I'm tempted to follow OK Don's method of through the top, except I still
have no idea how anything goes together in there, and without his experience
of Already Having Done It Once, I'm not at all sure what I'd be doing under
there; how it all goes together is
Hi, list -
The blower in my (76 300D) 115's been dead for a year or two now, and I'm
thinking of jumping in to replace it.
(As Marshal suggests periodically, I wouldn't bother to replace it, EXCEPT
that it makes an intolerable rattling/groaning/grinding noise at speed if
the A/C isn't on - this
Am I the only person getting two of each digest?
Stuart S.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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I can totally second MBI; they do excellent work at reasonable prices
(expensive, of course, because all automotive work is expensive, but
significant cheaper than the dealer on labor).
And it's great to see their parking lot, just *filled* with MBs.
I always have them do anything I can't manage
Oh, I *know* where my coolant leak is. There's a pinhole near the top of the
radiator that I can't seem to get sealed - god knows I've tried.
It's so slow that I mostly just ignore it, but I obviously needed to check
it a little more often. Also, I thought it'd probably stop leaking once it
Thanks, everyone - it was, of course, the most embarrassingly obvious thing,
low coolant.
I blame a stressful week, and a pinhole in the radiator that drained it off
more than I'm used to it doing. Otherwise it probably would have occurred to
me to, oh, *check the coolant first*.
Hi, guys!
In the never-ending saga of what hasn't yet been replaced on my car, I
suspect my water pump is failing.
Just lately she's running significantly hotter than normal, and increasingly
so.
I'd suspect the thermostat, except that more throttle leads to more cooling,
from idle.
To be honest, Kaleb, I never *did* notice that used parts reference in the
message footers
Automated list-post footers tend to just get skimmed, more or less
automatically. Especially since it's just a mail address. I probably always
just noticed your address and assumed that line was list-admin,
(And you're damn right I forsook the new parts vendor. If MBParts has a
rebuild kit, it's not on the website, which I always prefer for ordering,
being new-fashioned.
I love Rusty's service and prices, and preferentially (ie, always if he has
it) order my new parts from him - like the suspension
Thanks, Jim - I just ordered a pair of replacement diaphragms from PP.
(I have the older actuator - had to lie to PP and say I had a w123, but the
picture looks correct. PP won't admit to having any parts for a w114/5. And
I certainly was able to remove the broken side - it looks like both ought
I hear it's a relatively trivial replacement under/behind the glovebox, on a
w123 - never owned one, so can't say from experience.
In Mercedes' defense, the heater fan on my '76 worked until this winter - 30
years.
(I also hear, but have no direct experience, that the w108 chassis is the
same
The fan on my 115's dead, too.
Contemplating a R+R this summer. Someone said previously, like a year or two
ago, that one way involves cutting out around the center dash speaker (just
enough to let you rest the grill back on the hole), to facilitate removal
from above.
Anyone remember more
Thanks for the feedback, everyone - I'll be seeing about cleaning it up this
weekend.
Mostly just relieved it should be fixable with a little poking around, at
this point.
Stuart S.
So, I was changing my oil yesterday (w115 300D).
Today, I topped it off and ran the make sure all the oil doesn't fall out
check... and all the oil fell out.
Seems I've smashed up the lips on my oil filter canister pretty good, so
I'll be needing a new one.
Questions being:
Hi, everybody!
Just ordered replacement brake reservoir grommets, as mine leak, and I have
a few questions (and I can't mind my [EMAIL PROTECTED] Manual CD, either).
1) Is there any special trick to replacing them? Just pull the tank
out, slick the new ones up with fluid, and
My 300D (w115, 76) is two-tone, chocolate brown over tan, from the factory.
(Which reminds me I need to strip and paint the roof this summer; paint on
the greenhouse is coming off in giant chips and I'd prefer it not rust
through. Anyone have paint tips?)
And I've seen a w108 4.5 around town with
Replacing front door seals on my 300D.
Ripped out the old one, in pieces.
Struggling with the new one, getting it into the groove is not easy (which
is good, 'cause it'd be too easy to get out).
Epiphany: Silicone Spray Lubricant.
That is all.
Stuart S.
1976 300D w115
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 21:26:33 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Idle noise
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
In a message dated 2/26/2006 10:31:32 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi, everybody! Long time, no post.
Lately, now that diesel prices have died down a bit, I fixed an electrical
problem, and so on, I've been driving my 300D again, and I've noticed
something making a big rattling noise at idle, from the engine compartment.
That's not really new, of course - what
I've always found Les Schwab stores to have *outstanding* customer service.
(Which is why they get my business, even though their prices aren't The
Lowest.)
For instance, this summer my Toyota truck started to pull hard to one side
when braking, and made clunking sounds. I couldn't see anything
Looks like the combination of a dozen regulatory environments, local supply
and demand, and tax differences.
The High is in Hawai'i, where there's the immense cost of shipping the fuel
there (or shipping in crude to refine on one of the two or three refineries
on the islands).
As for that low,
Thanks for the link and writeup, Rich.
That should be very, very helpful... as soon as I order the second half of
the rebuild kit. It's not at all obvious, lacking the manual writeup, as I
was when I ordered, that *both* are needed for a full rebuild. I'd assumed
they were for different
What came loose is the six bolts that hold the vacuum pump on to the engine
block! All of them fell off, presumeably after being worked loose - for all
I know, when I got the car two years and change ago, some of them might have
already been gone; it's not something you normally check.
-Original Message-
Evidently I'm blind, or didn't' realize that the vacuum pump would be under
Brakes - though I recall looking under there. Maybe I didn't' page past
parking brake. Because it totally IS there!
Thanks!
Stuart S.
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 08:39:24
Hi, list!
Yesterday, driving home, I heard an awful noise coming from the front of my
car (w115 300D, OM617.910). As I pulled over, I noticed my power brakes were
no longer power, and the car didn't shut off when I turned the key.
Once I opened the hood, the reason was clear - the vacuum pump
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