There's an estate auction in mid Missouri on Saturday.
https://www.auctionzip.com/Listings/3278748.html
Two Mercedes are listed.
"1994 Mercedes V12 hardtop convertible, red w/tan interior, shows
76,300 miles, diesel, good rubber on Michelin tires"
and
"1973 Mercedes 450 SL hardtop
> Rick wrote:
> Facebook collects a ton of data also. Even if you don't have an
> account with them.
Yup. And more and accurate data when you do have an account.
> It is speculated FB, and perhaps others can listen to
> conversations, even when the app is not open. True?
It's possible. I
> > > > Dimitri wrote:
> > > > You need to get an amphicar in your collection!
> > > fmiser wrote:
> > >
> > > or a hovercraft...
> > Kaleb Striplin wrote:
> >
> > I am definitely going to be getting a small flat bottom boat
> > with a motor after this.
> Floyd wrote:
>
> Get a small Zodiac
A
> Dimitri wrote:
> You need to get an amphicar in your collection!
or a hovercraft...
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> OK wrote:
> I would make some snarky remark about being able to fly out, but
> our grass strip is too muddy to get the plane onto,
Floats!!
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> Kaleb wrote:
> What I am trying to figure out is what the deal is the brake
> warning light in the cluster. It comes on when the parking
> brake is set.
That is a lamp test and a "don't forget to release the parking
brake" notice.
> Also, when I was pushing the pedal the other day
> it was
> Kaleb wrote:
> When I pump the pedal it does return but
> its not an instant return as soon as you left off the pedal.
Does the pedal end up higher if you pump it? That is, one press
on the pedal and you say it goes down 3/4 of the way to the
floor. If you pump it 3-6 times does it get up to
> Kaleb wrote:
> I had the bleeder pressured up to 20 per the instructions and
> when the screws are open at the wheels the fluid sort of just
> runs out, not under a great deal of pressure shooting out like I
> am used to when opening it when having the pedal pressed.
The pedal develops a _lot_
> Kaleb wrote:
> ... it just feels like it has no
> brakes at all, pedal seems to be going nearly to the floor. I
> am sure the rear drums are not adjusted all the way out yet but
> I would not think that would cause it to go to the floor.
If there is not resistance for the slave cylinders to
> Dan wrote:
> Should I let most of the pressure out of the tire before I pull
> the nail out?
No. It's easier to work on if the tire is stiff from internal air
pressure. Not letting extra air out is especially valuable if the
means of re-inflation is a hand pump. *smiles*
Pull the nail out,
> Dan--- wrote:
> The question is, do I pull it out and plug the hole, or just
> leave it alone?
If it were my tire, I would pull the nail out and plug the hole.
Easy choice.
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> Dan wrote:
> So my question is this:
>
> Are the DIY tire plugging kits a realistic alternative?
Oh yeah. I have many thousands of miles on at least a few dozen
tires I have put plugs in.
> Is there anything I should be aware of when choosing one?
Get the gooey plugs, a reamer, and a "T"
> Dan wrote:
> I’ve left it on the charger the rest of the day and will leave
> it overnight. This is a 25 year old automatic variable rate
> charger - will it make the battery happy, or do I need to buy
> one of those newer ones to recover it?
If you can provide 16 V, (maybe the "start"
> Rick wrote:
> Because it's a Chrysler product, and Chrysler products are turds
> (except the Cummins engine).
There is nothing Chrysler about the Cummins engine. Except they
have a contract to provide an engine.
https://www.reliableplant.com/Read/22648/Cummins-agrees-to-Chrysler-contract
> Curley wrote:
> I ordered the new window switch unit. (dogde van)
> So I put the old switch in. ... You'll never guess what the
> solution is!
>
> Think about it. think msdos crap.
You had to reboot the window controller?
If so, why does a window need an electric motor? And if it
> Curley wrote:
> I ordered the new window switch unit. (dogde van)
> So I put the old switch in. ... You'll never guess what the
> solution is!
>
> Think about it. think msdos crap.
You had to reboot the window controller?
If so, why does a window need an electric motor? And if it
> Dan wrote:
> Can an ML, like an ML430, tow another car with a dolly easily
> and/or safely?
General rule - any vehicle can safely tow its own mass plus a
bit. With trailer brakes - even more. Will the nannies scream
while you do it? I don't know.
I am not fond of dollies. There is less
> Jim wrote:
> The radio production of HGttG is the best form, IMHO. I have it
> in a boxed CD set, prominently emblazoned with "Don't Panic" on
> it.
I believe that was the original. Douglas wrote the book later.
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> G wrote:
> Give Arnicare a look. It's an old Homeopathic med that has been
> used since before Rome was in power
Arnica is the "active" component.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arnica
Good stuff. I use it on bumps, bruises, sore muscles, joint aches
- pretty much any pain that isn't bleeding
> Mitch wrote:
> That's what I do, just a little on the threads near the end, but
> not the end threads. But plug manufacturers are generally
> against the idea, except maybe for plugs with black oxide
> coatings. Mitch.
> Tech Bulletin - Anti-Seize Compounds on Spark Plug Threads
>
> Applying
> > Mitch wrote:
> >
> > IIRC, sometimes holes get smaller when the material expands.
> Craig wrote:
>
> I'm sorry, but you do not recall correctly.
Well...
If the hole is a gap between separate pieces the hole usually will
get smaller as the temperature increases.
Or if the edges are held
> G wrote:
> Carefully remove ALL the plugs, replace them with new ones that
> have the threads coated with Never Seize. No need to slather the
> threads, just a finger wipe that fills the thread area, but NOT
> over the edge into the spark tip area.
My favorite way to put it on is with a tooth
> Curley wrote:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzFogalPaQg Shay #9 No video
> can capture the experience of standing by the tracks when it
> rolls by. Every truck, every axle driven; even on the tender.
> Sound and earth shaking.
Shay's are pretty cool. Not all of them had the tender
> OK wrote:
> A clone of the Cadillac-Nash Rambler joke from the '50's … still
> good though.
Beep! Beep! His horn went Beep! Beep! Beep!
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> Curley wrote:
> Driver window just quit on the van. Now this is where it
> gets crazy. 2^6 possibilities.
Might it work to put in a switch unit with too many switches and
just ignore the extra?
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> G wrote:
> The interior walls of the tank will be bare after using vinegar,
> so don't let the tank set empty. Moisture in atmosphere will
> make it rust fast after vinegar cleaning, so after it is well
> drained, close it up and fill with fuel.
He did say this was for gasoline/petrol. I
> > > Floyd wrote:
> > >
> > > It is not an imaginary science fiction scenario that, with
> > > the flip of a switch, every automobile in the United States
> > > could suddenly and without warning be "turned off," all
> > > their engines stopped, their radios disabled, all by a
> > > malevolent
> Floyd wrote:
> It is not an imaginary science fiction scenario that, with the
> flip of a switch, every automobile in the United States could
> suddenly and without warning be "turned off," all their engines
> stopped, their radios disabled, all by a malevolent saboteur.
>
>
> Curt wrote:
> How does REA have any justification when other subsidies don't?
Are the other subsidies "gifts" or "loans"?
I believe all the money in REA was as loans.
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> Jim wrote:
> > According to this website, the Mercedes Benz W124 Cd was .29.
>
> People often forget that Cd is a unitless number. It means
> _nothing_ by itself, and cannot be compared amongst vehicles.
Sure it can. It does NOT represent the air resistance. But it
DOES compare the design.
> G wrote:
> GPS [civilian version] should give you altitude to within 3
> meters anywhere you are.
> Do smart phones have GPS function?
Mine does. And it reports altitude - but it seems to be a lot
more less than 3 meter accuracy. 30? yes.
___
> OK wrote:
> From the ad - "the steering wheel, which is equipped with an
> altimeter." I did once install an altimeter and a turn & bank
> indicator in the VW bug (1951 model). The altimeter didn't move
> much unless I was in the mountains, and even then it was slow.
My 'phone has a barometric
> Michael wrote:
> The most recent acquisition (84 300D) has an glow plug relay
> problem. I have replaced faulty plugs, tested wires for
> continuity, and replaced the relay with two different known
> good relays from operating vehicles. I cannot get the relay
> to kick in. I’m getting 12 volt
> Curley wrote:
> The 300D (124) got new wheel bearings yesterday. no signs
> of scraping on the calipers etc. The Middle C squeal on the
> right turns sometimes still persists.
If it doesn't change pitch with speed, then it probably doesn't
directly relate to the wheel rotating. Fender
> Kaleb wrote:
> Who knows about rear drum brakes on a GM product? On my
> recently reacquired 96 diesel Suburban when you first start
> driving it for the day the brakes are real grabby and it seems
> to be the rears locking up with very little pedal pressure.
Classic symptoms of brake fluid
> Curley wrote:
> Here's my question. Can I build a larger, better version of
> the coathanger antenna for better reception?
Yes.
> The half coathangers are 8" I believe that was 1/8 wavelength or
> something like that.
Maybe 1/2 wave...
> (maybe less) If I built 16" wire loops or had more
> Floyd wrote:
> Any other recommendations for how to see if it
> might have some more life in it? I know some of y'all have done
> some weird magic on them to get some more life out of them.
An "equalizing" charge. Which is really just intentionally
overcharging to "clean" the plates. Be
> Curley wrote:
> Was 1990 still the IH engine? Those were strong.
Yup. 92-93 is when Ford put there modifications on the electronic
controlled IH 444 and called it a "power stroke". There were a few
pre-electronic turbos (not PowerStroke) sold about then.
So 1990 would be a mechanical IDI
> Jim wrote:
> The phones, however, must be tethered to join into that,
> so they're weakly backed up.
Heh - was that intentional? A "weak" backup?
I run an SSH server on my 'phone, so over ssh I log in, run a bash
script that moves files within the 'phone and then uses rsync to
copy them to a
> Curt wrote:
> Do any of you great founts on knowledge have any experience with
> dual alternators? The fearless leader of the snowmobile club
> wants to run 2x 4 foot light bars on his 1989 Tucker Sno-Cat.
> The machine is powered by a Cummins 6BT and currently has a
> 105amp alternator. Those
> Kaleb wrote:
> ...the side post terminal on the passenger side battery
> physically melted off. ... Is this some sort of defect with the
> battery
Yeah. It has side posts. I gave up using them many years ago.
Threads strip, terminal pull out, terminals fall out - and I guess
terminals melt.
> Kaleb wrote:
> So maybe I should be running mine higher. Would it affect the
> ride quality?
I have a chart that is great if the only consideration is tire
load.
I think this is the same one I have. Helpful to figure out what
pressure to run with a non-stock tire.
> Floyd wrote:
> I mixed up some magic elixer acetone+ATF to use to try to get
> the lug bolts off the SL600 wheel that is stuck on. I put a big
> piece of duct tape over the bolt hole
Won't the acetone just dissolve the duct tape?
___
> > Kaleb wrote:
> >
> > I have not noticed any pee pumps around here. Maybe the semi
> > pumps have it.
> Curley wrote:
>
> it is only at larger truck stops.
Or not. There is a small station with two truck islands and it
has DEF pumps on both islands.
But I have only ever seen it on the big
> Dan wrote:
> I haven't decided if it’s a ploy to sell more stuff or just a way
> for a manufacturer to be a d*ck.
I suspect it's the EPA.
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> Mitch wrote:
> ...and disabled the others except for Contacts and Messaging. I
> suppose I need to find non-spyware versions of those two. Mitch.
Check the fdroid repository.
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> Craig wrote:
> WHY DOES CLICKING REPLY ON CURT'S EMAIL SEND THE REPLY ONLY TO
> HIM?!
Maybe Yahoo?
Same with Jim Cathey, but he doesn't have a Yahoo account.
Or it is how their clients are configured. I have to remember to
"reply all", then delete the non-list name.
> Dan wrote:
> Never understood the attraction of this model. Looks like an ice
> cream truck.
What do you have against ice cream trucks? *grin*
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> > fmiser wrote:
> > It's hard to compare brightness since the ones I got are a
> > "daylight" white and the original incandescent are very yellow
> > in comparison. But the new LEDs seem to be a bit brighter.
> Jim wrote:
>
> I loathe the blue tinge to all the white/daylight LED's, the warm
> > Curt wrote:
> >
> > I also have a plan to replace our current 9w 110v CF outdoor
> > light with 3x 3w 12v LEDs. Although the wattage is the same by
> > not running the inverter we save .25a.
> Jim wrote:
>
> I have been _very_ happy with the LED lighting I installed in
> the camper, though I
> Gerry wrote:
> I think it's remarkable that you went from truck driver, which
> requires a minimum of complex thought, to your present
> profession that must require a great deal of complex thought.
Heh. Well, what I do now is similar to what I did _before_
driving. So I used to field
> Jim wrote:
> Remember, a schematic's perfect wire is a fiction. If you draw
> them as resistors (their true form) it might be easier to see
> how the loads remain balanced. Basically you want the same
> length of wire involved in any of the three circuit paths from
> load (etc.) to battery
> Curt wrote:
> Hmm, I hadn't considered the idea. Now I need to look at the
> wiring on the ASV and see if I can sneak one of the cables to
> the rear battery.
Probably more valuable is for your battery bank at the camp,
though it sure can't hurt for the ASV.
I have not (yet) strung the
> > Gerry wrote:
> >
> > I've often thought of having 2 -12v batteries in parallel with
> > each other and the cars charging system so that when one
> > eventually failed, you could keep going on the remaining good
> > battery by switching the cables around.
> Curt wrote:
> There are 2 batteries
> Curley wrote:
> Too bad there is not an access panel from the top!
Rent a Sawzall and make one!
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> Curley wrote:
> I think low vacuum makes hard shifts and too much vacuum is soft
> shifts.
On a car with a carburetor, low vacuum is when the throttle is
open wide - a good time for firm shifts. High vacuum is when the
throttle is closed - soft shift feels better and isn't going to
damage
> Buggered wrote:
> The car [photo was attached]
Ugh. I was wrong. That is the ugly one '80-'85.
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> OK wrote:
> Don't you loose a lot of electrons to heat converting from 24v
> to 12v? It's not like transforming AC up or down …
Well, sort of. A "linear" regulator will dump half of the power
as heat. 24V 2A in (48 W) and get 12V 2A out (24 W).
The modern way is a DC-to-DC converter that
> Floyd wrote:
> A buddy of mine just posted a pic of a cadillac seville diesel
> that the transporter dropped off yesterday. It is... brown.
> Fitting.
That was probably before the SeVille was super ugly. And if it
was a later 5.7 it's an okay engine. In typical GM fashion, it
was sold to
> Bob wrote:
> Maybe I’ll check this out tomorrow.
>
> What think ye all?
> >
> > 1983 Mercedes 240d Low mi. 4spd, mint condition
> >
> > https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/6813972699.html
About perfect. '82 will have the new pump and cam giving it a bit
more power and durability than
> > > Robert wrote:
> > >
> > > I recently purchased a 2014 Honda CRV.
> > > It looks like the repair shop apparently overfilled the oil
> > > during that change.
> > Peter wrote:
> >
> > I'd check the oil filter housing for signs of oil being tossed
> > up out of the crankcase ventilation
> OK wrote:
> Thanks to those who turned me onto HDMI audio splitters - I
> bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYN46VK
> and it's working great!
Sweet! I'm glad it working for you.
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> Kaleb wrote:
> ...decided to move about a dozen hoods and trunk lids
> I should start working out.
I think you just did.
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> Kaleb wrote:
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-Mercedes-Benz-300-Series/264177534779?hash=item3d8235473b:g:qIMAAOSwj5BcPyTu:rk:86:pf:0=mtr
There is a lot wrong with it for that price.
vacuum leak, broken odometer, fuel sender gunked up, inside hatch
latch broken...
But it has no rust, and it's
> Buggered wrote:
> The new antenna doesn’t seem to be pulling in a much better
> signal either, up or down, which I expected it to do. Hm.
> Whussup wif dat
Damage wire, buggered connector would be my guess.
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> Bob wrote:
> Jesus, Mary and Joseph...
>
> > 85 euro spec mercedes 300td diesel wagon
> >
> > https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/6806258372.html
Euro spec - but with DOT headlights? interesting.
Does the Euro "T" come with the self-leveling suspension? If so,
I wonder how that was
> > fmiser writes:
> >
> > If you can afford to use both stereo inputs for the iPod,
> > connecting to "L" on both channels will work.
> >
> > If you need both stereo inputs - build the stereo summer for
> > the iPod input and connect only the left.
> Allan wrote:
>
> I discovered that both
> OK wrote:
> Laptop can't seem to send audio anywhere else while the HDMI
> wire is in the socket (grumble grumble . . .).
Get an HDMI audio extractor (or de-embedder).
Something like this for $20
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/
No experience
> Buggered wrote:
> Does your amp go to 11?
That's not pro audio - that's Spinaltap!
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> Allan wrote:
> That's the thing, any music will be coming from e.g. an iPod
> hence stereo, and connected to stereo inputs on the mixer. The
> mixer is a very basic portable so not a lot of features.
Oh. The Zed6 is a small mixer!
> https://www.allen-heath.com/ahproducts/zed-6/
>
> I
> Allan wrote:
> Anyone here have experience with pro audio setup?
Yup.
> I will have four 8-ohm PA speakers. ... I'm planning to hook them
> up as a pair of speakers connected in parallel, wired in series
> to another pair in parallel to maintain an 8-ohm impedance
> presented to the amp. The
> Jim wrote:
> Use the other to feel the lamp. If it's hot
But be careful. The lamp can get painfully - or even dangerously
- hot.
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> > Clay wrote:
> >
> > OM603 out of chicago should have a block heater. Gump, the
> > w115 came with factory cord and was originally from that
> > city. Maybe the guy has no idea how to start a diesel in the
> > cold.
> Allan wrote:
> I have heard somewhere that "all" OM617 have a heater --
> Mitch wrote:
> https://www.xdtalk.com/attachments/90e19bbd8f581b2efc519ae1bd49a3b7-jpg.630197/
I think that's more of a UP type of snow than an Alaska snow...
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> > Curley wrote:
> > Has anyone ever purchased the brake hoses used by custom car
> > builders that are braided SS on the outside? I was wondering
> > if those are available for a 123. If you have used them what
> > was the source, and were you satisfied with the performance?
> Dan wrote:
>
> Mitch wrote:
> I think their site decides I'm browsing too quick and must be a
> bot so they shitcan my IP address for a day. Most recent
> example: Show me batteries for a 2007 Saturn Ion2 Ok, do you
> want Platinum, Gold, Silver, or Crap? Gold.
> Here are our two group 78 gold batteries,
> Max wrote:
> That's it, repairing some shoes.
That seems an odd use for it.
I repair a lot of stuff with it - and occasionally shoes too!
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> Craig wrote:
> I have looked around and the lowest price I see is about $120
> for a Group 49/H8.
>
> I thought of getting a comparably-rated Group 31 heavy truck
> battery from our local Kenworth dealer for $79.99
> What do you all think about this approach?
Do it.
As long as it fits and
> > Mitch wrote:
> > ... started using Goolag, like this:
> >
> > https://www.google.com/search?q=site:advanceautoparts.com+ate+dot+4
> Craig wrote
>
> You can do the same thing with https://start.duckduckgo.com/
> with a slightly different syntax:
>
> ate dot 4 site:advanceautoparts
I think
> > Dan wrote:
> >
> > True, but [Advanced Auto] recent website redesign has
> > made the web site an abomination.
> Mitch wrote:
>
> And it remembers your last car choice and filters the search to
> stuff it thinks goes with that car.
I'll bet if you cleared their cookies between visits it
> Curley wrote:
> I have not taken my stihl in because it needed a rebuild in ~40
> years. I mix a gallon a year, and use it to light bonfires etc,
> and yes, it has ethanol in it.
I don't know what you folk do different - or what it is that I do
different. But my experience is _zero_ fuel
> Curley wrote:
> Well, it may be the end of the road for the rusty SDL.
> Yesterday there was a puddle in front of it. I saw a wet stream
> down the RF of the block from the head gasket. Sad. Should
> I try buffing it and JBWeld?
:( Are you thinking "pull the head, grind out the leak,
> Curt wrote:
> Made in China doesn't automatically mean it's bad.
Yup.
But regardless of the build quality it does mean it was made by
an antagonistic (enemy) country - not an ally. I personally would
rather not support them. Sometimes I know I do - but I prefer to
not.
> Rick wrote:
> Wondering if his emails get through
I'm seeing it - so I think it is getting through.
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> Andrew wrote:
[regarding coal fired generating plants vs wind/solar]
> Let the market dictate and set the politics aside.
I agree completely. Which means _ALL_ government subsidies and
tax breaks _MUST_ end. And regulation must be comparable.
That would change the current state of the
> Mitch wrote:
> In under five minutes, that POS vacuumed up 1.5GB of data
> through my cell service. And all she did was log into facebook
> and read 3-4 messages.
I'm with you!
I had a new-to-the-house iPad that decided all WiFi was
non-metered and without asking downloaded 10G OS update.
> Floyd wrote:
> Well a reload and restart did not clear the nsurlsessiond issue,
> have not tried the monitor. Safari back working though so that
> is some progress.
Set your firewall to block that destination? Or block that source
port?
___
> Peter wrote:
> The cure for "warped" rotors after hard stops is to creep slowly
> forward immediately after stopping.
After having correctly bedded the pads after installing new rotors.
Here is a good reference article.
> Kaleb wrote:
> It is amazing how much higher quality the stereo sounds is on
> old recordings such as these from the 50's and 60's. Far
> superior to anything you will find today.
Less processing - especially compression (dynamic range, not file
size).
It's possible to get better sound now -
> > Craig wrote
> >
> > Yes, but they are the same material all the way through, so
> > cutting a screw would not have exposed anything different than
> > what is already on the surface.
> Curt wrote:
>
> Yeah I thought of that after I wrote it. Slight hope that some
> oil or other
> Curley wrote:
> Cut the head or bottom out of a 30 to 55 gal plastic barrel.
> apply the cault and screw the patch to the bottom.
> THis will hold way better than a prastic weld.
Done right the plastic weld will be better. The caulk will age
and leak.
Poorly done, the plastic weld will
> Andrew wrote:
> Someone abandoned a rather attractive urn-shaped rain barrel
> which has a crack in the bottom of the base and won't hold water.
> The barrel is made of polypropylene
Plastic weld cause nothing really sticks to polypropylene.
> She suggested a plastic welder with a rod of
> G wrote:
> I'm pretty sure the crinkle stuff around the doors is a version
> of thermo formed plastic.
> Germany didn't think this one all the way through... I think...
> My posit is we need to re-invent the molding using another
> material...
3D print!!
Okay. It to is thermo-formed.
> > Dimitri wrote:
> >
> > A pretty full day! I dislike jobs that require getting under a
> > jacked up car!
> Craig wrote:
>
> Is there some other way to do jobs like:
>
> - Change transmission filter
> - Change differential gear oil
> - Work on exhaust system
> - Work on parking brake
> Curley wrote:
> I can order something online, but I was wondering if any of you
> have found a good source for brake tubing. I'd rather finish it
> soon rather than waiting a week for parts.
I _really_ like the copper-nickel line. I don't know about
getting metric sizes. I got some SAE size
> Craig wrote:
> four-pack of 100 W equivalents.
I'm not really picking on you, Craig, 'cause your earlier email
stated, "1600 lumens" but I get really annoyed with the "watts
equivalent" rating because the light output for a 100 W
incandescent is NOT standard! I have chosen to ignore that
> Curley wrote:
> I either need to sell enough parts to make room for a resolder
> station or buy a new relay, I guess.
For less than $50 you can get a good iron, a stand, and a pound of
good solder.
A year an a half ago I posted my favorite low-cost soldering iron.
MCM is gone, absorbed by
> Curley wrote:
> ...but the GP light stays on.
> Stuck GP Relay? Otherwise bad relay?
A test light or volt meter should quickly tell you if the relay is
still on. Or a clamp on ammeter.
My guess is the light circuit in the relay is getting weired.
___
> Max wrote:
> I was under the impression that the bulb-out relay compares the
> current between left and right sides, and then lights up when
> they differ.
I would be quite satisfied with that setup. At times it can be
uncertain if one headlight is out. But usually it's easy to spot
trouble
> > Curly wrote:
> >
> > I've not found a practical way to build a new >harness with
> > bigger wire.
> Rick wrote:
>
> You could probably do the Daniel Stern relay thing to upgrade
> the headlight and fog light wiring. A resistor will have to be
> put in the circuit for the lamp out light to
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