Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bleeding Brakes
I wipe down new rotors with acetone to remove any oil after mounting but
before installing the calipers.
On Thu, Jul 26, 2012 at 2:48 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
The main thing is you don't want any grease left on the rotors when
Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com writes:
A spray can of brake cleaner (from FLAPS)works well and is pretty
reasonable, especially on sale. Amazingly effective.
There are two kinds, the non-chlorinated (usually a green can) and the
original chlorinated hydrocarbon stuff (red can). The latter
I'll have to go back to the repair PDFs to find this, but when browsing
the brake repair in the WSM (W124) I ran across a procedure to put sand
paper between the pad and the rotor to clean the rotors. I was looking
for something else so did not dwell on it - anyone use this method?
I'll find
...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Larry T
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2012 12:16 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bleeding Brakes
I'll have to go back to the repair PDFs to find this, but when browsing
the brake repair in the WSM (W124) I ran across a procedure to put sand
paper between the pad
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bleeding Brakes
I'll have to go back to the repair PDFs to find this, but when browsing
the brake repair in the WSM (W124) I ran across a procedure to put sand
paper between the pad and the rotor to clean the rotors. I was looking
for something else so did not dwell
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bleeding Brakes
Check the caliper thickness yourself against minimum thickness standards in
the service manual to determine whether the rotors can be safely turned
down. Chances are good that older worn rotors are already below specs, at
least
@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bleeding Brakes
Message-ID: 2603675E072E4E73A4C83496B6652A2F@ScottPC
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
Last time I did rotors, I figured it was cheaper to just replace them if
there is any doubt. An air impact wrench makes unbolting the rotor easy.
But if you
I really appreciate the designs where the rotor is not part of/attached
to the hub. I recently put new rotors on our Focus, and it's as easy as
removing the wheel and caliper, and the rotor just pulls off. No
repacking hubs, replacing hub seals, etc just to replace the rotor.
Now it may be that
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 9:26 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bleeding Brakes
I really appreciate the designs where the rotor is not part of/attached
to the hub. I recently put new rotors on our Focus, and it's as easy
This submission is a question mainly directed at those individuals who do their
own brake work and have had to deal with this issue. When replacing disc brake
pads that are worn considerably, it is necessary to push back the wheel
cylinder pistons to allow room for the new, thick pads. This
remove the calipers and work on a bench. should replace fluid every two years
and this way you can put fresh fluid in.
I doubt you have so much fluid that you would cause it to overflow if you push
the caliper open
clay
On Jul 23, 2012, at 6:35 PM, Jerry Herrman wrote:
This submission is
Doing all 4 wheels with thin pads will guarantee an overflow in every car I've
ever had. I suck the MC dry before I begin and suck it again when I'm done. I
figure it's better to suck out the old stuff rather than pushing it through the
lines. Better to push fresh clean brake fluid. Recently
Also if the rotors are pitted with rust, replace them. They will eat up
the new pads in no time. A little dusty surface rust is not a problem,
but if they are pitted or flaking they need to go.
You can try to find a shop to turn them, but they uniformly tell me they
are too thin to turn because
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 22:38:41 -0400 Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
wrote:
You can try to find a shop to turn them, but they uniformly tell me they
are too thin to turn because I think they want me to go to the parts
counter and buy new instead.
And, of course, our parts guy is Rusty at
Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 7:39 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bleeding Brakes
Also if the rotors are pitted with rust, replace them. They will eat up the
new
Mercedes rotors WILL be too thin if there is a visible lip on them.
They are NOT intended for lifetime service, unlike American cars.
They are also very inexpensive as rotors go.
All sorts of brake ills result from running them too thin, I see it
on every single used Benz I run into,
Herrman jer...@san.rr.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 9:35 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Bleeding Brakes
This submission is a question mainly directed at those individuals who do
their own brake work and have had to deal with this issue. When replacing disc
brake pads
Another issue I have is that of opening the cap on the MC. Does this
allow moisture (say, on a humid day) to enter the MC?
The caps are vented, so open or not it's not much different.
That's why you bleed them periodically.
-- Jim
___
Jerry Herrman wrote:
Also, I worry about fluid going backward in the system -
it just seems wrong somehow.
Don't worry about this. It happens a bit every time you take
your foot off the brake pedal. The rotors push back against the
pads and some fluid will flow back up to the master
On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 20:57:22 -0500 Fred Moir fred.s...@verizon.net
wrote:
Curt.
A small brake fluid filled pressure vessel, just a few psi., would work
too. Just enough pressure to move the fluid up from the slave to the
master. 10-15 psi?
Yes, 10 - 15 psi will work well.
Craig
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