None of the supplied sleeves will fit the top of the old ball joint to
press it out the bottom of the control arm (this is assuming it's the
same as the W124, you need to check). Any bit of pipe that will seat
in the tool and fit inside the hole in the control arm will work, as
you don't
None of the supplied sleeves will fit the top of the old ball joint to press it
out the bottom of the control arm (this is assuming it's the same as the W124,
you need to check). Any bit of pipe that will seat in the tool and fit inside
the hole in the control arm will work, as you don't care
The 86 201 does not have a McPherson strut, it uses a shock absorber
strut next to the spring. How do I know this? Because I used an internal
spring compressor to remove the springs yesterday and I will be using an
internal spring compressor to re-install the springs today.
Unfortunately the
Does that car have a brake rod support? THe connector that goes from
the firewall to the control arm? The ball joint in those on the 123
wear out and give that clunk.
--R
Hendrik Fay wrote:
The dramas never stop, got the engine and box back in the car and after
adjusting the control
The only thing I could find was the ball joint had up down
movement of about 5mm (the right one only has about 2mm) and I am
thinking if that is bouncing it could cause a clunking noise.
Anyone have any input? Is there supposed to be up/down movement?
I don't think there is supposed to be any
That's pretty much the repair limit.
Not a terrible job, the tool from Harbor Freight will work if you
make and adapter to push the old one out.
Jack car and support with a jackstand under the control arm (this is
absolutely necessary unless you want to remove the spring). Remove
strut
I have a spring compressor tool, the rubber bushings still seem to be
pretty good.
More than likely I'll take the control arm out and take it to a shop to
get the ball joint replaced.
Hendrik
Peter Frederick wrote:
That's pretty much the repair limit.
Not a terrible job, the tool from
On the TD I took the knuckle to a shop, an old Benz mech (I think he was
Italian, go figure) put the thing in a vise and put a ball peen hammer
round end on the BJ, then took a BFH and beat on that thing like a
rented mule until the BJ popped out. Steel on steel, a bit scary. But
it came out
Hendrik Fay wrote:
I have a spring compressor tool,
What kind of spring compressor tool?
Mitch
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Internal type, which is a copy of the Klann but mucho cheapero.
Bought it off ebay in the states.
The aftermarket manual I have for the 201 chassis shows them using an
external set of spring compressors, guess that would work if they are
heavy duty enough but the way I figure it, by the time I
The W201/W124 ball joint is MUCH easier to replace, as it's in the
control arm and not the steering knuckle. The ones on W126s are a
real pain, although my brother's came out fairly easily and pressed
in without major problems. Not easy, though.
Peter
Yes the pressing in of the ball joint is a job for an experienced
person, from what I understand if they go in crooked the only way to get
them out is with a gas axe.
Also you wanna be careful bashing things with a BFH, sometimes things
end up bent or otherwise broken. Just about every decent
The dramas never stop, got the engine and box back in the car and after
adjusting the control pressure that seems all good. There was a
scrapping noise after reinstalling the rear wheel carrier but that was a
simple adjustment with a hammer on the dust shield.
However there is still a clunking
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