That’s what I was thinking
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> On Aug 18, 2019, at 9:56 PM, Frederick Moir via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Kaleb.
> In my limited experience the rubber fails first, then the bearing.
> YMMV
> Fred.
>
> On Sun, Aug 18, 2019 at 10:27 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
>
This is one of those "while you’re there, do it all” jobs. Silly not to. Maybe
it’s an OE item only.
-D
> On Aug 18, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Frederick Moir via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Kaleb.
> In my limited experience the rubber fails first, then the bearing.
> YMMV
> Fred.
>
> On Sun, Aug 18,
Kaleb.
In my limited experience the rubber fails first, then the bearing.
YMMV
Fred.
On Sun, Aug 18, 2019 at 10:27 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> When replacing the drive shaft center support, should the bearing and
> the rubber part that mounts to the car
When replacing the drive shaft center support, should the bearing and
the rubber part that mounts to the car both be replaced? I need to do
mine on my 210 and for some reason none of my usual sites importec and
fcp list the the rubber part, only the bearing. I had to go to
autohausaz for the
Never done one, think I need to on my 140. Do you just pull the whole shaft
then replace it? How does it come off? Ever since I pulled the engine to
replace that rod and head gasket I have had driveshaft vibration that is
sometimes there, sometimes not at all. I quit driving it because last
If it's anything like earlier cars, you remove the shaft
from the car, then use a puller to get the bearing off
after you split the 2-piece shaft. Cautionary tale:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLdrive.html
-- Jim
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know this may not apply to a 140.
-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb
C. Striplin
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 11:45 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Driveshaft center support
Never done one, think I need to on my
Purists may not like this suggestion, but what I normally do before
taking any driveline apart is to use a spray paint can and make a line
down the joint from one shaft to the other. If one side has an orange
stripe and the other does not, it is difficult to put it together backwards.
On
On Mon, May 26, 2014 at 10:45 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:
Never done one, think I need to on my 140. Do you just pull the whole
shaft then replace it? How does it come off?
Yes - usually the bearing and the support come separately, you press
(hammer) the new bearing into
When I put the engine back in I had the vibration which was odd I thought as it
did not vibrate before, so I replaced the front flex disk, made no difference.
What was even more strange is sometimes it vibrates and sometimes it doesn't,
and it almost seems temp dependent on when it does it.
Could be a transmission mount, too. Does it vibrate only on
acceleration?
Rear flex disk could be bad too, although that usually won't cause
much vibration until it spits out a chunk or two.
Peter
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I did this job on a W115 240D the other day... It was fairly easy. Mark
the front and rear parts of the shaft as mentioned... I take a long
straight edge and run a line with a wax pencil across the two. Pull the
whole shaft, then separate it off the car. I was able to knock the old
bearing out
My W140 does this at a narrow speed range (75-80) which also seems to be
dependent on road surface, believe it or not. I have the parts to do the job,
but it's a real pig to do on the W140, which is why I have put it off.
The only way you can get to the drive shaft and center bearing on the
All my mounts (motor, transmission) were replaced before this, too.
Dan
On May 26, 2014, at 2:37 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
My W140 does this at a narrow speed range (75-80) which also seems to be
dependent on road surface, believe it or not. I have the parts to do the
job, but it's a real
I use a Dremel Moto Tool and a pointed grinding bit to make small
indentations on many parts that do better when put back together the
same way. Very little metal is removed so there is no balance problem.
Then I use a touchup stick from FLAPS and put a drop of paint in the
indents. The
Center punch works too. Make punch marks that match and they will remain.
On 26/05/2014 2:21 PM, arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:
I use a Dremel Moto Tool and a pointed grinding bit to make small
indentations on many parts that do better when put back together the
same way. Very little metal
The factory reference points are dimples placed with a center punch on both
sides of the joint. Don't ask me how I know...
Dan
On May 26, 2014, at 3:34 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
Center punch works too. Make punch marks that match and they will remain.
Yes I did that as well
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On May 26, 2014, at 1:38 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
All my mounts (motor, transmission) were replaced before this, too.
Dan
On May 26, 2014, at 2:37 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
My W140 does this at a narrow speed range (75-80) which
Mine is a diesel and I do not see why the exhaust would have to come off.
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On May 26, 2014, at 1:37 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
My W140 does this at a narrow speed range (75-80) which also seems to be
dependent on road surface, believe it or not. I have the
Maybe the exhaust on the diesel is routed differently, but on the gas models
it's routed down the transmission tunnel below the driveshaft.
Shouldn't be too hard to figure out by looking underneath...
Dan
On May 26, 2014, at 5:08 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Mine is a diesel and I do not
I'm mine it runs to the passenger side of the trans tunnel
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On May 26, 2014, at 4:12 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
Maybe the exhaust on the diesel is routed differently, but on the gas models
it's routed down the transmission tunnel below the driveshaft.
So the drive shaft is visible, and there are no heat shields?
Dan
On May 26, 2014, at 5:26 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I'm mine it runs to the passenger side of the trans tunnel
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There is a heat shield over the drive shaft that has I be removed but it
appears it can be removed with the exhaust in place.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 26, 2014, at 5:20 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
So the drive shaft is visible, and there are no heat shields?
Dan
On May 26,
On Mon, 26 May 2014 08:52:47 -0700 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
wrote:
If it's anything like earlier cars, you remove the shaft
from the car, then use a puller to get the bearing off
after you split the 2-piece shaft. Cautionary tale:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLdrive.html
On Mon, 26 May 2014 16:01:54 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
The factory reference points are dimples placed with a center punch on
both sides of the joint. Don't ask me how I know...
On May 26, 2014, at 3:34 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
Center punch works too. Make punch marks
That was my experience also - I cleaned it with spray brake cleaner then
applied a couple of dots of paint.
On Mon, May 26, 2014 at 8:13 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
When I was re-doing our '82 240D/3.0, I tried marking the driveshaft with
a center punch. I could not make a dent
On 5/26/2014 9:13 PM, Craig wrote:
On Mon, 26 May 2014 16:01:54 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
The factory reference points are dimples placed with a center punch on
both sides of the joint. Don't ask me how I know...
On May 26, 2014, at 3:34 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
Center
How about http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLdline.html instead?
I shouldn't type links from memory.
-- Jim
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On Mon, 26 May 2014 20:23:04 -0700 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
wrote:
How about http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLdline.html instead?
Much better, thanks.
Craig
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