In a message dated 7/30/2005 10:28:39 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Now I'm trying to set the timing and I'm turning the distributor and every
thing is fine at about 1000 RPM 10 BTDC.
I turn the distributor clockwise just a hair more, and the rpms drop and
Thanks Jim,
That seams to have worked although I did get a double backfire through both
carburators. Could that be from beeing too advanced?
Thanks again
George
-- Original message --
In a message dated 7/30/2005 10:28:39 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL
I reveresed the coil wiring and took the dwell meter from under the battery,
like Dan(benzbarn) suggested and I was able to get set the dwell properly.
41*. Thanks Dan! Woohoo!
Now I'm trying to set the timing and I'm turning the distributor and every
thing is fine at about 1000 RPM 10 BTDC.
BTW, The fast idle screw is missing from my carburators. Would this be related
to this problem?
Is the fast idle screw, just a screw w/ a spring? is that something I can get
at home depot? if so doe anybody know the screw size length?
Thanks
George
-- Original message
Ok. Went to Autozone (I know I know) and picked up another set of points.
Dan, The housing is metal, magnet stuck, and the last digits of the casting is
187 003. I did not find an oil cup on the side of the housing. There was a ball
and the plates that moved all got point grease. moves much
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I took all my reading at about 800-900 rpms
I went from 0.06 all the way to 0.026. the smallest reading I got was 51.
Any feedback would be greatly appriciated.
This is on a 72 250 w114 m130.
I know nothing about the ignition on that car, but the symptom (dwell
Hey Mitch,
I just went though all the email since this morning and nothing on trig. I'll
keep on looking.
Thanks
George
-- Original message --
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I took all my reading at about 800-900 rpms
I went from 0.06 all the way to 0.026. the
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hey Mitch,
I just went though all the email since this morning and nothing on trig.
I'll keep on
looking.
It was a very brief email, somewhat criptic, but I wondered if he was saying the
car had capacitor discharge electronic ignition.
Here's Dan's entire
Yeah I remember/saw that one.
It does have a capacitor. Are we thinking that's gone bad?
-- Original message --
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hey Mitch,
I just went though all the email since this morning and nothing on trig.
I'll keep on
looking.
It
Hook your dwell meter right at the end of the green distributor wire where it
goes to a small junction box. There should be a small metal post sticking up -
hook on there. You can't take a reading off the coil like a regular system.
Dan
Hey Dan,
Benz did quite a few changes to this model as the ran out of parts. I beleive
they also went from a 2.5 to a 2.8 somehere in that time as well.
I did pull a vacuum and the cell. Both the advance retard do work. In fact
it's kinda hard to start the vehicle without the advace.
Don't
Yes I do.
-- Original message --
yes, the distributor wire. not at the distributor end - at the other end down
on the frame rail or inner fender.
you should have the 2.8 engine
Dan---BeginMessage---
___
For used parts email [EMAIL
Hi all,
I have a 72 250 w114 M130 and I was trying to adjust the dwell. the closest I
got it was 51*. I tried everything from 0.06- 0.19 feeler gauges.
I'm guessing that the points are bad.
Can someone second that guess?
Thanks
George
If the dwell doesn't vary with gap, the points aren't making contact
properly. Dwell is actually closed time in degrees of rotation -- do
make sure you have the meter set for (or are reading) the six cylinder
scale -- else they read wrong.
New ones are about $8, foolish not to replace them.
Yeah I was reading the right scale. Thx for the tip.
how long should points last anyhow?
-- Original message --
If the dwell doesn't vary with gap, the points aren't making contact
properly. Dwell is actually closed time in degrees of rotation -- do
make sure you
Standard direct points will last maybe 5000 miles. Points on
transistor switch coils will last maybe 15,000, not usually more.
Dirt or oil kill them, make sure the new ones are lubricated correctly
(a tiny amount of high melting point grease on the BACK side of the
rubbing block, not the
If you have the aluminium distributor it should be set to 30 degrees.
On this car with CD ignition? Just about forever..
your points
unusable. Like Peter said, if there is any doubt just replace them.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 9:06 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dwell
Standard direct
In a message dated 7/27/2005 7:07:51 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have a 72 250 w114 M130 and I was trying to adjust the dwell. the closest
I got it was 51*. I tried everything from 0.06- 0.19 feeler gauges.
I'm guessing that the points are bad.
Can
Ok. What's CD ignition?
30* for aluminium distributor? Any quick dirty way to check if I do have an
alum distributor?
-- Original message --
On this car with CD ignition? Just about forever..---BeginMessage---
___
For used
Thanks Jim,
I'll check it out. There is only 120K on the vehicle but it could be premature
wear.
If it is failing, is there a rebuild kit for it?
Thanks
George
-- Original message --
In a message dated 7/27/2005 7:07:51 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL
I rebuild distributors here with a proper distributor testing machine. CD
ignition stands for capacitive discharge, an early electronic ignition device.
Put a magnet on the housing which should fall off. Pretty easy to see if it's
aluminum or not.
Dan
How long do bearings last on these distributors?
Yeah I though about the magnet thing after I sent the email. There should be a
law against sending email that early ;)
-- Original message --
I rebuild distributors here with a proper distributor testing machine. CD
If you oil the felts on the main shaft through the oiler they last a long time.
The original bushings are usually steel but the replacements are some sort of
brass - possibly self lubricating.
One of the problems on cars with CD ignition is that people never service the
distributor. Since the points will last much longer, the normal light oiling
during change out usually never gets done. The rubbing block needs a bit of
point grease, oil cup on the side of the housing needs a few
26 matches
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