Thanks Peter - will check it today!
;-)
Larry
On 7/11/2014 11:44 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
The fan must be stiff when cold and spin at engine speed when started,
then immediately slow down. It must also pull with significant air
flow at idle with the engine hot enough to engage it (about 85
Hi Peter -
Once the engine was fully warmed I had my turn it off while I watched as
you suggested - the fan stopped turning very quickly - hard to say f it
was within a rpm or not but close At least it's not obviously
bad right?
There's a car like mine at our local junk yard - if I
On Sat, 12 Jul 2014 19:26:30 -0400 LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
I assume I will feel lots of heat being blown back across the engine if
the fan is working properly?
Yes, indeed.
On our trip to Albuquerque and back today, I could hear the whine of the
fan when the clutch connected and
should be lots of hot air blowing back.
Check for a cold spot in the radiator in front of the fan, that's
where they crap up first.
Also check for junk and or oil on the radiator fins or between
radiator and evaporator. The engine temp on the TE dropped
dramatically when I put a new
I have a question about temps and my 91 300D. Some may recall I just
replaced the radiator after the top hose nozzle broke as well as
replacing the water pump and T'stat gasket. While all leaks have
stopped the temp will go to just above the 80C mark by maybe 1/8 or so,
I'm thinking it's
Larry,
I think the red line for your car is over 5000 rpm, and it is not really a
red line, it is the governed limit.
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
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The fan must be stiff when cold and spin at engine speed when started,
then immediately slow down. It must also pull with significant air
flow at idle with the engine hot enough to engage it (about 85 C I
think).
Also, when hot, it must stop immediately when shutting off, and this
is
