I think I recall someone else mentioning it was your trick to use the wax.
Why is it the hat and threads shouldn't be lubed?
Ed
300E
On 20/08/07, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> E M wrote:
> > Thanks Peter,
> > This wheel was by no way torqued correctly!! I had to put a 3 foot
> p
E M wrote:
> Thanks Peter,
> This wheel was by no way torqued correctly!! I had to put a 3 foot piece of
> pipe on the wrench to get the bolts out!! Wonder the rotors didnt look like
> salad bowls, but them seem ok. I always do the back of the rotor where it
> meets the hug too.
>
> Ed
> 300E
>
Thanks Peter,
This wheel was by no way torqued correctly!! I had to put a 3 foot piece of
pipe on the wrench to get the bolts out!! Wonder the rotors didnt look like
salad bowls, but them seem ok. I always do the back of the rotor where it
meets the hug too.
Ed
300E
On 19/08/07, Peter Frederic
A very light coating of ant-iseize will work. I also put a very thin
layer of anti-seize on the face of the hub when installing a new rotor,
too.
However, I've never seen a stuck alloy wheel with correctly torqued lug
bolts. either.
Peter
___
http://www.o
Took one of the wheels on the front of the W124 the other day. The guy in
shop had it on SO tight, I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get the bolts
off!!! Once the bolts were off, the wheel was stuck to the hub. AH! After
finally getting it off, but driving it, using the brakes hard and allow
