OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
Some connections, inside a DB25 for example, about HAVE to be
soldered.
Err, no. Soldering those is a real pain. Much better to crip
pin/socket to the wire and then insert into the body. At least that's
how _I_ prefer to do it. Repair is also much easier as
I know nothing about wiring. At what point do I splice in the new connector?
Does the new one come with a certain length of wire?
Sent from my iPhone
On May 5, 2013, at 2:43 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:
Common replacement item. The corrosion causes heating, which melts the
The replacements usually have a few inches of wire sticking out the
back. Cut the old one off, splice and solder the correct wires
together.
Use heat shrink tubing on the solder connections to keep them dry.
Peter
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The socket into which the headlight bulb on my brothers 89 300TE plugs in has
corroded to the point that it no longer makes good contact with the prongs on
the bulb. It looks like it sustained some sort of heat damage at some point and
was repaired with epoxy. Is this part of the wiring harness
The socket into which the headlight bulb on my brothers 89 300TE plugs
in has corroded to the point that it no longer makes good contact with
the prongs on the bulb. It looks like it sustained some sort of heat
damage at some point and was repaired with epoxy. Is this part of the
wiring
Hello --
My '91 300D did the same thing. I bought a used headlight wiring
thingie that was about 10 long with the headlight bulb connector on
one end and a plug on the other. I removed the bulb, unplugged the bad
harness and replaced it with the used harness in about 10 min. I think
You can get them at NAPA. Whenever I did the relay modification and/or added
Euro headlights to a car, I always replaced the headlight lamp socket with
these. They are typically in stock at decent sized NAPA stores and used to be
about $4 each.
Be sure to get the heavy duty ones, as there
Oh - I almost forgot:
Solder, do not crimp, the connections. Otherwise you're wasting your time.
Dan
On May 5, 2013, at 1:34 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
You can get them at NAPA. Whenever I did the relay modification and/or added
Euro headlights to a car, I always replaced the headlight lamp
Thanks Dan -- I'm not used to finding something like this at NAPA!
Thanks for the info --
LarryT
On 5/5/2013 1:34 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
You can get them at NAPA. Whenever I did the relay modification and/or added
Euro headlights to a car, I always replaced the headlight lamp socket with
What gets soldered? The harness I bought (used) plugged in at both
ends... I assume you bought the bulb connection and ha to splice the
wiring?
LarryT
91 300D
On 5/5/2013 1:35 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
Oh - I almost forgot:
Solder, do not crimp, the connections. Otherwise you're wasting
Common replacement item. The corrosion causes heating, which melts
the plastic.
Solder the new one in place -- they are readily available. DO NOT
just twist the wires together and tape, you will have fits with low
light output, bulb-out light on all the time, and missing beams.
Pete
Yes. I bought the socket with the pigtail and had to solder it into the
existing wiring.
Dan
On May 5, 2013, at 2:40 PM, Larry T wrote:
What gets soldered? The harness I bought (used) plugged in at both ends...
I assume you bought the bulb connection and ha to splice the wiring?
On May 5, 2013 10:35 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
Solder, do not crimp, the connections.
Otherwise you're wasting your time.
Ooh, a soldering vs. crimping thread! Almost as good as an oil thread!
Alex
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What is the best kind of solder to use? Natural or synthetic?
--R
On 5/5/13 3:10 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
On May 5, 2013 10:35 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
Solder, do not crimp, the connections.
Otherwise you're wasting your time.
Ooh, a soldering vs. crimping thread!
Check the MB specs:
http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/index.php?language_id=1
Dan
On May 5, 2013, at 3:16 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
What is the best kind of solder to use? Natural or synthetic?
--R
On 5/5/13 3:10 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
On May 5, 2013 10:35 AM, Dan Penoff
So synthetic headlight fluid?
--R
On 5/5/13 3:18 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
Check the MB specs:
http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/index.php?language_id=1
Dan
On May 5, 2013, at 3:16 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
What is the best kind of solder to use? Natural or synthetic?
--R
On 5/5/13 3:10 PM,
The solder doesn't matter so much as the flux ;)
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On May 5, 2013, at 15:16, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
wrote:
What is the best kind of solder to use? Natural or synthetic?
--R
On 5/5/13
What is the best kind of solder to use? Natural or synthetic?
--R
60/40 with real lead
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On Sun, 5 May 2013 12:10:34 -0700 Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
On May 5, 2013 10:35 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
Solder, do not crimp, the connections.
Otherwise you're wasting your time.
Ooh, a soldering vs. crimping thread! Almost as good as an oil
I prefer 63/37, with real lead; it's an eutectic alloy, so it means no
plastic state between melting and flowing. It makes it very difficult to get
a cold joint (say from a wire moving at just the wrong moment...
Don't forget the layers of heatshrink (one layer if its glue-filled)
--
John W
does it appear to be OE quality (or /lack /of it) ;-)
Larry
On 5/5/2013 2:46 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
Yes. I bought the socket with the pigtail and had to solder it into the
existing wiring.
Dan
On May 5, 2013, at 2:40 PM, Larry T wrote:
What gets soldered? The harness I bought (used)
I do both!
On Sun, May 5, 2013 at 2:10 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.comwrote:
On May 5, 2013 10:35 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
Solder, do not crimp, the connections.
Otherwise you're wasting your time.
Ooh, a soldering vs. crimping thread! Almost as good as an
On May 5, 2013, at 7:59 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
I do both!
On Sun, May 5, 2013 at 2:10 PM, Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.comwrote:
On May 5, 2013 10:35 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
Solder, do not crimp, the connections.
Otherwise you're wasting your time.
Speaking of wiring, I have to modify the wiring to the tachometer in my
'66 MGB to convert the polarization from Pos gnd to Neg gnd and the
official method recommended is to use a Lineman's Splice. Found it
on Wiki and thought it looked pretty robust do a search let me
know
On May 5, 2013, at 7:59 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
I do both!
Wow! A belt and suspenders man!
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True, for the most part. Solder beyond the connector (in the wire) can
cause the flexing from vibration to work harden the wire at the end of the
solder, resulting in a break. IF you can keep the solder within the
connector/crimp area and NOT wick any past that point, you will have a
better
I should add in appropriate situations. I was taught early on that you
never rely on solder for a physical/stress connection, and never rely on a
physical connection for good contact. Made sense to me ---
On Sun, May 5, 2013 at 9:55 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
I do both!
I should add in appropriate situations. I was taught early on that you
never rely on solder for a physical/stress connection, and never rely on a
physical connection for good contact. Made sense to me ---
On Sun, May 5, 2013 at 9:55 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
I do both!
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