I actually found and drove home a good running 83 300TD with a bad body and
cracked dash yesterday! The drive train will be transplanted into the donee
car. The donor car has a better than average palomino interior - anybody
interested?
The transmission seems OK except for perhaps one thing.
$200
andrew strasfogel wrote:
Anybody care to guess what an engine-less 1983 300TD with a nice blue
interior and rusty but restorable body is worth? No warranty on the used
transmission either!
On Fri, May 23, 2008 at 10:05 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
I dont really
The head is unique to the wagon, have to use a wagon engine or swap the
wagon head on.
Mitch Haley wrote:
andrew strasfogel wrote:
Kaleb,
I may have found a used '84 project car with a good engine. Will that
engine fit in my 83 without any modifications?
If it's coming out of a coupe or
andrew strasfogel wrote:
Anybody care to guess what an engine-less 1983 300TD with a nice blue
interior and rusty but restorable body is worth? No warranty on the used
transmission either!
Swap the toasted engine from the rust free car into it.
Sell it like you bought the rust free car, a
Interesting advice. I was actually thinking of transferring the drive train
(engine + transmission) into the rust-free car, but not reinstalling either
into my rusty wagon. How would this affect the value of the car I would be
trying to sell?
On Sun, May 25, 2008 at 9:30 AM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL
andrew strasfogel wrote:
How would this affect the value of the car I would be
trying to sell?
I was thinking a rolling chassis/interior would go for parts or salvage, maybe
$0.10-0.15 a pound, but maybe a complete but non-running car could be sold as
a project car for a little more. OTOH,
Reading between the lines, are you saying it would be a project if it were
a rolling chassis with an engine and transmission lying in the back of the
car, but a restorable non-running car if IF the bad engine and
questionable tranny were in situ and not removed?
On Sun, May 25, 2008 at 7:59 PM,
Anybody care to guess what an engine-less 1983 300TD with a nice blue
interior and rusty but restorable body is worth? No warranty on the used
transmission either!
On Fri, May 23, 2008 at 10:05 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
I dont really see any cracks on that head of yours.
The last I knew, a factory short block did not require a core. The
head is likely to be ok. Valves are likely ok also
At 09:10 PM 5/22/2008, you wrote:
I almost forgot. The body donor is the car that was run out of oil
until it wouldn't run, right? The only thing worth saving on
that engine
Loren Faeth wrote:
The last I knew, a factory short block did not require a core. The
head is likely to be ok. Valves are likely ok also
Good point. Valves/guides can probably survive a few minutes w/o fresh
oil. But the cam and followers were probably the first things to go,
and I can't
I dont really see any cracks on that head of yours. I have a place that
can actually rebuild the 14;s anyway and they seem to hold up.
Luther wrote:
That is a posibility, since Kaleb traded me his solid 617 block for my
cracked 603 head.
Luther
On Thu, 22 May 2008 08:51:30 -0500, Loren
There is nothing reputable about Adsit, IMHO. Steer
very clear of them.
Dan
--- andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed
have a bad engine.
:((I was thinking of taking the drive train from
my decent running 1983
rusty 300TD, but
How rusty is the good running wagon?
Is it just looking not so perfect, or does it have holes in the rockers/wheel
wells/floors?
Wouldn't you rather have the drivetrain you've come to know and trust?
I think giving the rust free car a heart transplant from your known
car is better than selling
What about other sources for a rebuilt?
On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 7:36 AM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
How rusty is the good running wagon?
Is it just looking not so perfect, or does it have holes in the
rockers/wheel
wells/floors?
Wouldn't you rather have the drivetrain you've come
I will buy the old head from you. If you want a good engine and don't
care about $ as much go with Metric Motors. 85 is the same as the
others, the SLS head is what makes it special. With a shortblock you
will be reusing the old head.
-Rolf
andrew strasfogel wrote:
As feared, my new rust free
Rolf wrote:
85 is the same as the others, the SLS head is what makes it special.
85 crank is special too. larger centering hole for the torque converter.
You can put a 84 TQ on a 85 crank, but it won't be self-centering.
___
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To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD
I will buy the old head from you. If you want a good engine and don't
care about $ as much go with Metric Motors. 85 is the same as the
others, the SLS head is what makes it special. With a shortblock you
IF the head on the trashed engine is good, then buy a short
block. If the head has more than a couple of small cracks, i'd be
inclined to buy a long block if it is not too pricey. Last I knew MB
only supplied short blocks. Do check prices from several MB dealers
who cater to MBCA. Often
I would think the hole is smaller not larger as the bearing required
some trimming for the manual swap?
-Rolf
Mitch Haley wrote:
Rolf wrote:
85 is the same as the others, the SLS head is what makes it special.
85 crank is special too. larger centering hole for the torque converter.
If my mechanic does the work what would be his extra labor to do the short
block vs. engine replacement? How can he tell whether the head is still
good?
On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 2:19 PM, Rolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I would think the hole is smaller not larger as the bearing required
some
andrew strasfogel wrote:
If my mechanic does the work what would be his extra labor to do the short
block vs. engine replacement?
Probably no more than his charge to remove the replacement engine from
your old car. If you're paying labor it gets expensive in a hurry
no matter which way you
block vs. long block - 1983 300TD
As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
:((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running 1983
rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I would rather sell it as a
daily driver to someone willing to give
your best bet would be to put the engine in from the rusty wagon. Its
value is in the engine.
andrew strasfogel wrote:
As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
:((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running 1983
rusty 300TD, but this seems
No, 85 is different than 81-84.
Rolf wrote:
I will buy the old head from you. If you want a good engine and don't
care about $ as much go with Metric Motors. 85 is the same as the
others, the SLS head is what makes it special. With a shortblock you
will be reusing the old head.
-Rolf
I almost forgot. The body donor is the car that was run out of oil
until it wouldn't run, right? The only thing worth saving on
that engine is probably the SLS pump and fuel system. If you
bought a short block, then you'd still need a cam, cam bearings,
rocker arms, valves, guides (and those
That is a posibility, since Kaleb traded me his solid 617 block for my cracked
603 head.
Luther
On Thu, 22 May 2008 08:51:30 -0500, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
IF the head on the trashed engine is good, then buy a short
block. If the head has more than a couple of small cracks, i'd
As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
:((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running 1983
rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I would rather sell it as a
daily driver to someone willing to give it a new lease on life. Finding
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