On inline engines i have put in a new chain many times by myself.
Definitely have a heavy wire (16 ga copper or larger or a coathanger)
on each end with loops beg enough they won't drop inside.. I have
had a locking forceps with relief behind the jaws that I use for
fishing out the chain
dseretakis wrote:
Thanks Peter. Do you think that fancy tool is worth it?
Craig wrote:
Attached is a picture of a cheap version of the fancy tool
someone on the list made sometime on the past.
I'll let others comment on its efficacy and appropriateness.
Hey! That looks like mine!
Thanks. This is great stuff. About the tool; I'm not sure how it works. It
keeps the chain against the cam but doesn't the chain still have to be pulled
to feed it through and keep things taught?
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 27, 2012, at 11:22 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
On Thu, 27
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
Thanks. This is great stuff. About the tool; I'm not sure how it works. It
keeps the chain against the cam but doesn't the chain still have to be pulled
to feed it through and keep things taught?
Yes, it lets you turn the engine carefully while feeding a new chain
Hey Dimitri,
You should have changed the timing chain at 100K miles so first roll
back the odometer.
On Fri, Dec 28, 2012 at 7:12 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
Thanks. This is great stuff. About the tool; I'm not sure how it works. It
keeps the chain
Haha. It's not mileage but stretch. Last I checked mine was at 5 degrees.
So are you helping out? Everyone here recommends one person to turn crankshaft
and two people to pull and feed the chain - you, me, Gael!
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 28, 2012, at 11:16 AM, Andrew Strasfogel
I'm unfortunately not available to help out this time.
On Fri, Dec 28, 2012 at 10:38 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
Haha. It's not mileage but stretch. Last I checked mine was at 5 degrees.
So are you helping out? Everyone here recommends one person to turn
crankshaft and two people to pull
Maybe next time. 200K miles away!
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 28, 2012, at 2:24 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:
I'm unfortunately not available to help out this time.
On Fri, Dec 28, 2012 at 10:38 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
Haha. It's not mileage but stretch. Last I
You should inspect the rails now - - if there are grooves worn in
them, they need to be replaced. Put them in when you do the new chain.
A chain breaking/swaging tool is nice, but not absolutely necessary.
If you can fish one up, there is a bracket to bolts over the cam
sprocket that holds
Thanks Peter. Do you think that fancy tool is worth it?
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 27, 2012, at 6:56 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:
You should inspect the rails now - - if there are grooves worn in them, they
need to be replaced. Put them in when you do the new chain.
A
If you are going to open it up, you may as well do the tensioners and guides.
If you are pretty sure everything else is in good condition, you can just
remove the valve cover and spin the crank until you get to the link. Split the
link after you mark everything as to position. Three people
If you can find one to borrow, I certainly would. Not sure I'd buy
one for a couple hundred bucks for one use though.
Peter
___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
On Thu, 27 Dec 2012 22:11:52 -0600 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
It should save some time, but I don't think it's worth it iff you don't
replace timeing chains more than two or three times in your life. I
followed Peter's process almost exactly all three times I've done it. I
used three
It should save some time, but I don't think it's worth it iff you don't
replace timeing chains more than two or three times in your life. I
followed Peter's process almost exactly all three times I've done it. I
used three pieces of 12 ga. house wire to tie the chain to the cam sprocket
- keeping
Archer wrote:
Thanks, Clay. Don't think I want to hand peen something that critical, so
I'll probably rent a crimping tool from Performance Parts in California or
elsewhere.
Spud (Idaho Dave) or Joe Knight might have one, but I don't think either
of them are still on this list.
Mitch.
Don't think I want to hand peen something that critical,
I always figured I'd hand-peen it when it came my
turn to do one. (Haven't, yet.) But then I really
like using hammers for some reason...
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see
I did hand peen two chains. A good-n-heavy backing piece of steel/iron
helps a LOT. I used the clip on the last chain I did, and it held for
over 100k miles before the car was totaled.
I used a short piece of railroad track to back the link during the
hand peening. I would not hesitate to use the
Archer wrote:
Thanks, Clay. Don't think I want to hand peen something that critical,
so
I'll probably rent a crimping tool from Performance Parts in California
or
elsewhere.
Spud (Idaho Dave) or Joe Knight might have one, but I don't think either
of them are still on this list.
Don't think I want to hand peen something that critical,
I always figured I'd hand-peen it when it came my
turn to do one. (Haven't, yet.) But then I really
like using hammers for some reason...
-- Jim
You young guys can probably do it okay with a hammer.
: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement
I did hand peen two chains. A good-n-heavy backing piece of steel/iron
helps a LOT. I used the clip on the last chain I did, and it held for
over 100k miles before the car was totaled.
I used a short piece of railroad track to back the link during the
hand
I have all sizes of buck bars and several peen bars, but don't have any peen
bars that small. Not really good enough with a ball peen hammer and don't
have anyone to buck it for me.
Gerry
--
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I did hand peen two
now that's a problem!
Not really good enough with a ball peen hammer and don't
have anyone to buck it for me.
Gerry
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81
Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Timing chain replacement
I did something similar - I had the engine completely disassembled at the
time for a rebuild put the new chain in the vise where I use hammer
punch to peen it over. he I snaked the circular chain into position and
continued with the assembly
Done it many times and never had one come loose, but they usually look like
squashed bugs.
Gerry
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
now that's a problem!
Not really good enough with a ball peen hammer and don't
have anyone to buck it for me.
Gerry
--
OK Don,
The secret to peening is to take your time and not try and bash the crap
out of it.
It is pretty important to not get the joining link too tight, as this
will increase wear.
Hendrik
Archer wrote:
Done it many times and never had one come loose, but they usually look like
squashed bugs.
All you really need to do is expand the end of the pins so that the
flat part of the link cannot slip off. There is very little side
force on the chain, just flaring the end is quite good enough.
Rather tough steel, of course, to minimize wear, but the actual
expansion needed is minimal.
I've had that happen too.
Gerry
--
From: Hendrik Fay [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The secret to peening is to take your time and not try and bash the crap
out of it.
It is pretty important to not get the joining link too tight, as this
will increase wear.
Hendrik
That's good to know. Tthought it would have be rounded over like most
rivets. How does the tool work? Do you have to tap it after tightening it
down on the rivet or does screwing it down expand the rivet?
Gerry
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
All you really
The crimping tool has two points that drive into the ends of the
pins, expanding them. You could use a punch and a backer just as
easily, but the tool doesn't put any force on the cam sprocket.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official
Two pins? Does both pins at once? Seems like doing one at time would be
okay.
Gerry
-
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The crimping tool has two points that drive into the ends of the
pins, expanding them. You could use a punch and a backer just as
Why do to operations when you can do them both at once? You have to
have two pins free to take a link out anyway, why not crimp both at
the same time?
By hand, just make sure the link plate stays put.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see
You could use a punch and a backer just as
easily, but the tool doesn't put any force on the cam sprocket.
Neither does the hammer, if the pin is backed properly
and you don't miss!
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list
The factory chain will have been crimped and installed with the
crankshaft. Replacements, are, of course, open. Buy the link and
beg, borrow, or steal a crimping tool, I don't recommend a master
link, even if it's wired. They come apart, especially if you get
them on backwards.
To
Old chain is peened on, new chain uses either a peened link or the
clip depending on if you get one in the box, or the extra one you
order from Rusty.
clay
On 20 Jun 2008, at 16:05, Archer wrote:
I just ordered a chain for my '83 300D Turbo from Rusty. I
understood him
to say that
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The factory chain will have been crimped and installed with the
crankshaft. Replacements, are, of course, open. Buy the link and
beg, borrow, or steal a crimping tool, I don't recommend a master
link, even if it's wired. They come apart, especially if
Thanks, Clay. Don't think I want to hand peen something that critical, so
I'll probably rent a crimping tool from Performance Parts in California or
elsewhere.
Gerry
-
From: Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Old chain is peened on, new chain uses either a
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