I changed Oil and all filters Saturday, went to purge the air out of the fuel
filter and the primer pump was squirting fuel out of itself. How hard are these
things to change?
George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
1985 300SD 170K
George Larribeau wrote:
I changed Oil and all filters Saturday, went to purge the air out of the fuel
filter and the primer pump was squirting fuel out of itself. How hard are these
things to change?
Not terribly.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 272+kmi
1980 300TD 183+kmi
1980 300SD
Not very. Just a bit ackward to get at. I think the proper method is to
unscrew one or both of the fittings next to the pump and then use a wrench.
Personally I grabbed a pair of vice grips and got it loosened and out, and
the new one (different style) was small enough that a wrench would fit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=120006371566fromMakeTrack=true
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-190-Series-1987-MB-190-D-TURBO-DIESEL-VERY-RARE-200-IN-USA-ONLY_W0QQitemZ280005964212QQihZ018QQcategoryZ6328QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
On further reading, the variable speed fan is really ½ speed and full
speed. You program it by un-plugging the fan, running the engine to
the temp at which you want ½ speed to come on, push and hold the
appropriate button for 3 seconds, then let the temp hit the point you
want the full fan speed
OK,still sort of looking around for another truck. Not real new,
probably mid to late 90's, early 2k if good deal. I know about GM,
probably my preference, but am exploring the option of a cummins or or
a powerchoke. Between those, which has the most power, which gets the
best mileage, has
Really? Marshall, what are the facts?
You are looking at a very rare 1987 190 D Turbo Diesel Mercedes Benz. Only
200 of these cars were brought over from europe into the United States
D.
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=280005964212
Only 200 in USA??? (said more than once, so not a typo)
$6500 buy it now, for a good daily driver, nothing really special about
the condition, except 140k mi is a little low.
Are you also looking around for another wife? Dude, you already have a
mega-truck and a Suburban. Both diesel. You'd better dump one of those (the
trucks, not the wife) before you get another (truck, not wife).
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK,still sort of looking
Looks perfect for you - if you had any spare time
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=120006371566fromMakeTrack=true
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
If you're so happy with the GM's you have, why are you looking for
something else???
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK,still sort of looking around for another truck. snip
I still prefer GM because they seem to be easier and cheaper to work
on. I have not had any
Thanks for your response. It was really helpful in me sorting thru the
differences. My dad wants my 1 ton, which is why Im looking for another
one.
LT Don wrote:
Are you also looking around for another wife? Dude, you already have a
mega-truck and a Suburban. Both diesel. You'd better dump
because my 1 ton is a regular cab, and an extended/crew cab would be
more useful
OK Don wrote:
If you're so happy with the GM's you have, why are you looking for
something else???
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK,still sort of looking around for another truck. snip
Well - why didn't you say so. Then - get a Cummins drive train and
put it in Ford chassis. That's the only thing I've read on the list
that makes any sense for trucks.
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks for your response. It was really helpful in me sorting thru the
I sent the seller a question asking him to document the exclusivity. We
shall see.
On 7/9/06, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=280005964212
Only 200 in USA??? (said more than once, so not a typo)
$6500 buy it now,
Dont ford chassis suck? Or not?
OK Don wrote:
Well - why didn't you say so. Then - get a Cummins drive train and
put it in Ford chassis. That's the only thing I've read on the list
that makes any sense for trucks.
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks for your
This one only has 86k miles --
http://tinyurl.com/kr47v
On 7/9/06, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I sent the seller a question asking him to document the exclusivity. We
shall see.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the
Oh, ok. That sort of makes sense.
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
because my 1 ton is a regular cab, and an extended/crew cab would be
more useful
OK Don wrote:
If you're so happy with the GM's you have, why are you looking for
something else???
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C.
Why don't you buy what's-his-name's Benz straight truck?
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Dont ford chassis suck? Or not?
OK Don wrote:
Well - why didn't you say so. Then - get a Cummins drive train and
put it in Ford chassis. That's the only thing I've read on the
uh, no
LT Don wrote:
Why don't you buy what's-his-name's Benz straight truck?
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Dont ford chassis suck? Or not?
OK Don wrote:
Well - why didn't you say so. Then - get a Cummins drive train and
put it in Ford chassis. That's the only
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
OK,still sort of looking around for another truck. Not real new,
probably mid to late 90's, early 2k if good deal. I know about GM,
probably my preference, but am exploring the option of a cummins or or
a powerchoke. Between those, which has the most power, which
OK so with the cummins, whats the deal with the different years, the 12
valve, 24 valve, seems they had completely different ip's. What about
the newer ones, like 02 and up? Those seem much quieter
Mitch Haley wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
OK,still sort of looking around for another
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
OK so with the cummins, whats the deal with the different years, the 12
valve, 24 valve, seems they had completely different ip's. What about
the newer ones, like 02 and up? Those seem much quieter
In the beginning, it was rotary pump, 21:1 compression, non
No, the chassis is the best part on the ford ( I remember quite a few
years ago, about 20, when the city of new york got a great deal on a
bunch of new ambulances from chevy and got rid of the fords...after
about 6 months they were suing GM because the suspension on their new
ambulances was
Why didn't you buy that Dodge 1 ton I mentioned a while back with the sleeper
cab?
How about this?
http://www.auto-rv.com/default.asp?area=browsedetailadname=BK1080569D
http://www.auto-rv.com/default.asp?area=browsedetailadname=BL647057
I think I could hit 22mpg fairly regularly in my old '93 Cummins 4x4
Clubcab.
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
On Sun, 9 Jul 2006 20:58:12 -0500 OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Looks perfect for you - if you had any spare time
On 7/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=120006371566fromMakeTrack=true
Can you say, basket
You're talking turbo vs. non turbo here.Turbo is very rare.
On 7/9/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This one only has 86k miles --
http://tinyurl.com/kr47v
On 7/9/06, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I sent the seller a question asking him to document the exclusivity. We
shall see.
--
On Sun, Jul 09, 2006 at 09:59:39PM -0500, Robert Tara Ludwick wrote:
The fords are definitely the sturdiest and most comfortable over the
long haul ( I love my old'90 crew cab ) but the international engines
leave a few things to be desired.
It is worthwhile noting that the non turbo 7.3
Kaleb,
Here's what you do (just my opinion of course) look at all the trucks in your
price range, years etc and take them out on a test drive. Find the one that
fits your needs and has all the options, power, comfort you might need. As
usual everyone is going to say yea this truck has issues
Thanks for the reminder, Harry, I have Conti's on my 911 and am very happy
with them - I believe they're original equipment on the 911 and other
Porsche models. And they *do* handle great and are quiet.
There certainly are a lot of tire choices!! Choice, fruit from the tree of
There's a nut between the pump body and the IP. Get a wrench/pliers on it
to break it loose then it;ll unscrew easily. The new one should screw in
without a problem.
When you buy the new one, it'll be obvious. Also, sometimes the leak stops
when the pump is in the closed position - push
I've always heard Ford trucks and GM cars - from the old timers.
BTW - What's a Frod?
;-)
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road
I first smelled then noticed a very slow trickle (but enough to see) of
diesel coming from on top of the IP where the 5 lines go in. Is there a
gasket under these? Why would they be leaking- I haven't loosened the
lines.
I tell those in my car the smell is a new air freshener.
On Sun, 9 Jul 2006, Desert Rat wrote:
You're talking turbo vs. non turbo here.Turbo is very rare.
IIRC turbo had about 2000 imported...
-j.
On Sun, 9 Jul 2006, Steve MacSween wrote:
HOWEVER, I did today decide to pull the thermostat (3 mos. old) and see what
difference it might make.
Umm the thermostate deisgn in the mercedes engine is a little unique--
there are two plates, one opens as the t-stat warms and the other
closes...
Your delivery valve seals are in need of replacement. Common issue with
cars of this vintage. Fairly easy project, but it does require a special
splined socket *617 589 01 09 00 *(~$40) and a torque wrench. The parts
(o-rings and copper washers) are dirt cheap.
On 7/10/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Here's a little something to park new to the diesel. Or when you want a
little better acceleration than the 240D manages.
http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/mercedes_slr_722.asp
How's 650 hp sound? I'd probably go broke replacing the rear tires!
This is a newletter you may want to consider
Hi
I recently put an injection pump in my 603.970. Started right up and was
running great. I was letting the engine idle in the drive way so the
thermostat would open and then I was going to top off the coolant. I
walked away for a few minutes and when I came back the car was overheating
and
I put Conti's on my 280 and I like the way they feel in the wet and they are so
quet even when you run them hard. Yep, lots of choices out there, good and bad
Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL 108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata
-Original Message-
From:
You would be better to modify a thermostat to stay in the full open
position, and will find it useful when you do your coolant flushes.
I did this with an old stat just to use for flushing the
system with cold water by substituting a length of a nail for the brass
Actually the Parts Bin has the same Italian one I sell for $32.00 for
$39.00 see link below:
http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/quote2.jsp?product=12482602
43action=searchcart=partnerSession=usemake=returnurl=www.thepartsbi
n.comSubmit=Search
Sorry Harry. I am always less than The Parts
When you buy the new one, it'll be obvious. Also, sometimes the leak
stops
when the pump is in the closed position - push in on the pump handle while
turning to the right - it should lock.
It is not leaking in the locked position, I only observed it leaking when I
tried to purge the air in
In a message dated 7/10/2006 5:46:39 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I first smelled then noticed a very slow trickle (but enough to see) of
diesel coming from on top of the IP where the 5 lines go in. Is there a
gasket under these? Why would they be leaking- I
In a message dated 7/10/2006 7:17:21 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I put Conti's on my 280 and I like the way they feel in the wet and they are
so quet even when you run them hard. Yep, lots of choices out there, good
and bad
Harry and all,
I tried the
In a message dated 7/9/2006 6:11:22 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I changed Oil and all filters Saturday, went to purge the air out of the
fuel filter and the primer pump was squirting fuel out of itself. How hard are
these things to change?
George,
If
Lower temps are bad as they increase fuel consumption and promote the
forming of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. This will also
make the engine much more sluggish!
In fact, I can't think of any reason to NOT want the engine to run as
designed!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
Howdy -
Have 2 problems - 1st, the blower fan in the ACC system stopped today;
naturally it's in the low 90s. I seem to recall it hesitating - for maybe 2
seconds, then it started blowing normally. I confirmed the compressor is
engaged.. Also checked the fuses and outside temp indicator -
You have an air bubble in the sytem somewhere...I had the exact same
thing when I replaced my coolant. I cured it by re-empyting the system
into a clean pail, and then pouring it back in through the top radiator
hose.
After that, everything was perfect!
If you don't want to do that, try
Whats the total torque, like 300ft/lbs? So the Ford was less than 10% more
powerful. I wonder what mileage penalty is for that power.
-Curt
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2006 22:12:58 -0700
From: Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cummins, frod, GM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
David Brodbeck wrote:
The twin I-beam front suspension on the 1980s Ford trucks vans was
ridiculously stout. No one seemed to be able to align it well, but you
couldn't break it.
Heat it and beat it was never a precision adjustment method. I suspect
they weren't all that straight when they
rumor has it that David wrote:
Robert Tara Ludwick wrote:
No, the chassis is the best part on the ford ( I remember quite a
few years ago, about 20, when the city of new york got a great
deal on a bunch of new ambulances from chevy and got rid of the
fords...after about 6 months
I'm in search of Drivers side (LH) cornering light Assy for a 94~95
E320
Sedan.
Anybody out there having a used one they are willing to part with.
If you are talking about the amber colored turn signal lens on the
front/side. I have one IF it is the same as the 1990 set up. If anyone
Thanks for the reminder, Harry, I have Conti's on my 911 and am very happy
with them - I believe they're original equipment on the 911 and other
Porsche models. And they *do* handle great and are quiet.
There certainly are a lot of tire choices!! Choice, fruit from the tree
of
capitalism.
Try kicking under the passenger dash. Usually the brushes on the blower
motor goes bad around 150k miles. Kicking under the passenger dash will make
it work for a bit longer, at least long enough to call Rusty.
Also check fuse under hood on driver's fender, it is not with other fuses
but in it's
My vote is for German made Contis, hands down. I can't find anyplace to
buy them anymore. I have several US made Contis on several vehicles with
no complaints SO FAR***
Last night, one of the Jokohamas I had on the 300TE came apart on the
interstate and cause $2000 damage to the TE.
Ah yes, the curse of the twin ibeams, they will eat tires, but it's just
about impossible to break the things.
I really loved the bloopers from some of those old commercials where
they were dropping the things off of cranes etc where they trucks would
bounce sky hi and flip overbut the
Kleb:
If you don't want an 1113 or 1116, here is what you oughta have, a rollback
something like the truck in the foreground. Crewcab IH 4700 DT466,
German-designed engine.
http://www.scoutconnection.com/photogallery/classicgallery_1/05_1q.jpg
Several possibilities here.
One, if you drained the coolant you didn't get enough in there before
you started it (although I don't know off the top of my head why you
would have).
If the temp gauge was in the red, very likely the head itself is
cracked, not just the gasket.
How did you
Trampas!
My Man!! Since you've got so much experience with this, I need to ask - how
difficult is it to change the motor - not getting the motor and cage
seperate - your explanation for that is great - but how is the motor removed
from behind the dash?
I have all the tools needed and plenty
I have one of thoseAN 86 E350 Diesel.The only way to get an
alignment done properly is to take it to a REAL truck shop so the I-beams
can be heated and bent to spec. VERY VERY durable though. 256K miles and
still going strong.
As long as the alignment is good(which it rarely isn't
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