Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[Rich Thomas]

Sounds like you need to build an adapter and put a Holley 4 barrel own 
nat thang.  Them is god carbs!


--R

Loren Faeth wrote:

First off, you need to know my perspective.  I am a dieseler, and I 
despise carbs, especially dual zeniths.  From my experience, if you 
have not synched carbs before, a unisynch or similar vacuum gauge is 
helpful, but not the end-all.  It can help you get close, unless you 
happen to have a brand that is really sensitive.  The adapters 
provided will not work.  You will have to make an adapter to fit over 
the carb that the synch tool will fir over or in the end of.  PVC 
pipe, fittings, and some glue and a hacksaw come to mind.  You want to 
prevent any air leakage between the carb and the synch tool.  THe 
synch tool will get you close, but in my experience, the fine tuning 
is done by ear.


THe problems with Zeniths is that they can rarely be made to run well 
at speed, and idle well at the right idle speed.  Most of this is from 
the tops warping.  The usual compromise is an idle speed that is too 
fast.  THe older dual solex were better, but not great.


I think you could make a synch tool with a necked-down bore above the 
carb with a 1/8 tube out the side to a good vacuum gauge.  I think 
this would be better than the tools sold, because most have only 30-45 
degrees of travel.   My unisynch was not sensitive enough for most 
work.  the only thing I can't tell you is what the optimal diameter 
would be to coincide with the range of a typical vacuum gauge.  You 
could study the gas laws and make a pretty good estimate.

http://staff.jccc.net/wkoch/Physics%20130/Notes/Fluids/chapter_11_fluids.htm

Tuning dual carb BMWs, i have not used a synch tool for years.  Just 
do it by ear.


dive in and start tweaking, just realize the weakness of the design 
you are working with.  Perfection might be very costly.




At 04:29 PM 8/2/2005, you wrote:

 
I have one of those.
 
But it does not exactly fit over the carb throat. THe book shows a 
kind of bowl that sits on top.
 
I'm not sure the unisys would work because the throat of the carb is 
not the highest point.


-- Original message --
> Looks like it might be an improvement over the old UniSyn anyway. 
> 
> joe 
> 
> On 8/2/05, Gerald R. Flintrop wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I went to www.jcwhitney.com  and
plugged "carburetor synchronizer" into their 
> > search window. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > They came up with a product ZX882792N for about 24 bucks. 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com  
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


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[MBZ] Blower Motor 350SDL- fan removal

[Constantine N. Polites]

After removing the blower assembly I tried to remove the motor from the 
fan. I used the modified Trampas method-
a hammer and drift pin (my air hammer is too big), and also have soaked 
the motor shaft in Kroil.  Negative results.

I have several pullers, but am afraid of damaging the plastic.

My next attempt will be using a press, if I can design some support to 
relieve the outside fan of pressure.

Any more practacle ideas?

Constantine

Re: [MBZ] leaking oil cap

[Hendrik Riessen]

Hi,

Be careful when doing this, some fuel caps are vented and I do not think
Mercedes intended them to be swapped over.
The trick with leaking oil caps is to get a balance between being tight and
loose. They should be hard to remove, if the oil cap in question is not
difficult to remove then it is in need of replacing. You can try a new
gasket first but it may be that the tension has gone from the oil cap.
A cheap way is to go to a self service wrecker and find a oil cap that is
tight(i.e.. hard to remove).
I take it you have put the oil cap all the way on, my Mum complained a while
back that her 201 190E stank of fuel so I went to investigate expecting to
find a leaking fuel hose but it turned out that she had not been putting the
fuel cap on tight enough(mainly because she run it over at some stage and
damaged it so it was very difficult to fully close it properly).

Hendrik

- Original Message -
From: "Darrell W. Sigmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 2:41 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] leaking oil cap


> Just trade the oil and gas cap..
>
> DWS
>
> Chuck Landenberger wrote:
>
> > Dan,
> >
> > If you can't get a new gasket soon, just remove the one in the cap, wipe
> > out accumulated oil in the cap, turn the old gasket over and put it back
> > in the cap.. Will improve the seal. BTDT...
> >
> > Chuck
> > Phoenix, AZ
> > 1980 300SD
> > On Tuesday, August 2, 2005, at 08:34 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 8/2/2005 6:59:20 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> > I have seen replacements for the oil cap and also new rubber ring
> > insert
> > replacements.  What is the preferred solution to oil leaking out of
> > the top
> > of the motor through the oil cap ?
> >
> >
> > Dan,
> >
> > Many so called "leaks" at the cap are self induced.   Whenever I
> > remove the cap I always plan to wipe the inside of the cap so that
> > the couple of drops therein will not flow out and look like a leak.
> > It doesn't help to just invert the cap.
> >
> > If you confirm a leak, a new gasket will take care of it.  The caps
> > rarely wear out.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jim Friesen
> > Phoenix AZ
> > 79 300SD, 261 K miles
> > 98 ML 320, 137 K miles
> > ___
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> > ___
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.7/60 - Release Date: 28/07/2005
>

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[Loren Faeth]

First off, you need to know my perspective.  I am a dieseler, and I despise 
carbs, especially dual zeniths.  From my experience, if you have not 
synched carbs before, a unisynch or similar vacuum gauge is helpful, but 
not the end-all.  It can help you get close, unless you happen to have a 
brand that is really sensitive.  The adapters provided will not work.  You 
will have to make an adapter to fit over the carb that the synch tool will 
fir over or in the end of.  PVC pipe, fittings, and some glue and a hacksaw 
come to mind.  You want to prevent any air leakage between the carb and the 
synch tool.  THe synch tool will get you close, but in my experience, the 
fine tuning is done by ear.


THe problems with Zeniths is that they can rarely be made to run well at 
speed, and idle well at the right idle speed.  Most of this is from the 
tops warping.  The usual compromise is an idle speed that is too fast.  THe 
older dual solex were better, but not great.


I think you could make a synch tool with a necked-down bore above the carb 
with a 1/8 tube out the side to a good vacuum gauge.  I think this would be 
better than the tools sold, because most have only 30-45 degrees of 
travel.   My unisynch was not sensitive enough for most work.  the only 
thing I can't tell you is what the optimal diameter would be to coincide 
with the range of a typical vacuum gauge.  You could study the gas laws and 
make a pretty good estimate.

http://staff.jccc.net/wkoch/Physics%20130/Notes/Fluids/chapter_11_fluids.htm

Tuning dual carb BMWs, i have not used a synch tool for years.  Just do it 
by ear.


dive in and start tweaking, just realize the weakness of the design you are 
working with.  Perfection might be very costly.




At 04:29 PM 8/2/2005, you wrote:


I have one of those.

But it does not exactly fit over the carb throat. THe book shows a kind of 
bowl that sits on top.


I'm not sure the unisys would work because the throat of the carb is not 
the highest point.

-- Original message --
> Looks like it might be an improvement over the old UniSyn anyway.
>
> joe
>
> On 8/2/05, Gerald R. Flintrop wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > I went to www.jcwhitney.com and plugged "carburetor synchronizer" 
into their

> > search window.
> >
> >
> >
> > They came up with a product ZX882792N for about 24 bucks.
>
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

on the 123 its only ran off a temp switch on the drier(not a pressure 
switch) and doenst have a thing to do with engine temp.


Peter Frederick wrote:

Temperature switch on the thermostat housing (pull the wire off and 
ground it, fan must come on) and pressure or temperature switch on the 
AC receiver/dryer.  That one should run fan on low speed, I think.


Check the resistor (if so equiped) for slow speed operation, they are 
often corroded so the fan won't come on until the engine gets hot 
(don't know what temp, though).


Make sure the fan comes on with high temp or pressure at the 
receiver/dryer or  you risk blowing a high pressure hose.


Peter


___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

there is a temp switch on the drier that turns it on.

Don wrote:


Marshall,

What controls the cycling on/off on a W123? Is it a pressure switch or
a temp switch? My electric fan is "good" (I can jump the relay and
make it run) but it doesn't come on when the ac is operating. I don't
think it is a relay problem after doing some troubleshooting.

On 8/2/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Are the two electric cooling fans suppose to come on when I turn on the
A/C, on my 95 E300D? If not, at what temputure do they come on?


The fans come on when high side pressure exceeds 250 psi or when engine
temp exceeds 105 deg. C. When the AC is on the fans USUALLY cycle on and
off unless outside temps are very cold or very hot when the fans could
be always off or on.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Rear axle R & R

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yep, they sure can, or less.

Luther Gulseth wrote:


kaleb say's they can be R&R'd in 30 min..

Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] eBay Issues -- Update

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

just click on the link at the bottom of every message.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


the archives are active


so...how do i find these archives?




the archives are active

Don wrote:



The archives (if the archives are even still active) are only the tip
of the iceberg. Many of us use GMail for the list(s) and those emails
are archived by Google, and will probably available for searching down
the road.

On 8/2/05, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 07:33:06 -0500 Jan Guthrie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:




Craig 
In addition, I had forgotten about the archives. Oops.








--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
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___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

[MBZ] Carb sync

[frederick w moir]

Hi, All.
	I just went down to check on my old Uni-Syn, seems to be gone. To use a 
sync tool on a carb. that has no clear access, use a short piece of large 
rubber hose the size of the carb. neck between the carb and tool. If I find 
the Uni-Syn I'll let you know.

TTFN
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
87 190DT
85 300TD
84 190D
85 190E (organ donor)

Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.

[Peter Frederick]

Temperature switch on the thermostat housing (pull the wire off and 
ground it, fan must come on) and pressure or temperature switch on the 
AC receiver/dryer.  That one should run fan on low speed, I think.


Check the resistor (if so equiped) for slow speed operation, they are 
often corroded so the fan won't come on until the engine gets hot 
(don't know what temp, though).


Make sure the fan comes on with high temp or pressure at the 
receiver/dryer or  you risk blowing a high pressure hose.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.

[Don]

Marshall,

What controls the cycling on/off on a W123? Is it a pressure switch or
a temp switch? My electric fan is "good" (I can jump the relay and
make it run) but it doesn't come on when the ac is operating. I don't
think it is a relay problem after doing some troubleshooting.

On 8/2/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Are the two electric cooling fans suppose to come on when I turn on the
> > A/C, on my 95 E300D? If not, at what temputure do they come on?
> 
> The fans come on when high side pressure exceeds 250 psi or when engine
> temp exceeds 105 deg. C. When the AC is on the fans USUALLY cycle on and
> off unless outside temps are very cold or very hot when the fans could
> be always off or on.
> 
> Marshall
> --
> Marshall Booth Ph.D.
> Ass't Prof. (ret.)
> Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
> Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
> Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


-- 
Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
I don't even need the drum.

-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

Re: [MBZ] Rear axle R & R

[Luther Gulseth]

kaleb say's they can be R&R'd in 30 min..

Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi

Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.

[Marshall Booth]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Are the two electric cooling fans suppose to come on when I turn on the 
A/C, on my 95 E300D? If not, at what temputure do they come on?


The fans come on when high side pressure exceeds 250 psi or when engine 
temp exceeds 105 deg. C. When the AC is on the fans USUALLY cycle on and 
off unless outside temps are very cold or very hot when the fans could 
be always off or on.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] Outlook Express - Was: Re: 108 pictures, burn in Hades, ye who netzero!

[Rich Thomas]

Next thing to do is take a ride on the Night Train.

--R


Rob S. wrote:


i ewnt oudf  an  got a botle of ths thunderrefvbird you spek of.

picturs stil l take forevvcer to downllado.

but i donr give a fu


On Tuesday, August 2, 2005, at 04:44 PM, Don wrote:

 


Yes, but Thunderbird is NOT. And Thunderbird blocks images until you
say to download them.

On 8/2/05, Rob S. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
   


isn't G-mail web-based?

 




___
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Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[72benz250]

I have one of those.

But it does not exactly fit over the carb throat. THe book shows a kind of bowl 
that sits on top.

I'm not sure the unisys would work because the throat of the carb is not the 
highest point.
-- Original message -- 

> Looks like it might be an improvement over the old UniSyn anyway. 
> 
> joe 
> 
> On 8/2/05, Gerald R. Flintrop wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I went to www.jcwhitney.com and plugged "carburetor synchronizer" into 
> > their 
> > search window. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > They came up with a product ZX882792N for about 24 bucks. 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

Re: [MBZ] Cleaning Glass

[Bill Aston]

I've always used the cheap  way: weak ammonia mixture with tap water. Good 
for glass  top tables, too.  Use yesterday's newspaper to rub and dry.

Bill Aston
33  yrs in USN! 




--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.8/61 - Release Date: 8/1/2005

Re: [MBZ] Outlook Express - Was: Re: 108 pictures, burn in Hades, ye who netzero!

[Don]

??

http://pw2.netcom.com/~gentile/Vigor/POY2.htm

Re: [MBZ] eBay Issues -- Update

[Don]

Just go to Google and type in "summer a eichmann". 

On 8/2/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> the archives are active
> 
> 
> so...how do i find these archives?
> 
> 
> > the archives are active
> >

-- 
Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
I don't even need the drum.

-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

[MBZ] Rear axle R & R

[stevebailey3373]

How difficult is the R & R of the rear axle shafts? I have read the manual but 
there are still questions about how to do this job. It seems easy enough but... 
who has done this job, how long, any special tools required?

Steve Bailey 
1983 240d

__
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Re: [MBZ] Outlook Express - Was: Re: 108 pictures, burn in Hades, ye who netzero!

[Rob S .]

i ewnt oudf  an  got a botle of ths thunderrefvbird you spek of.

picturs stil l take forevvcer to downllado.

but i donr give a fu


On Tuesday, August 2, 2005, at 04:44 PM, Don wrote:


Yes, but Thunderbird is NOT. And Thunderbird blocks images until you
say to download them.

On 8/2/05, Rob S. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

isn't G-mail web-based?

Re: [MBZ] eBay Issues -- Update

[jjayj]

the archives are active


so...how do i find these archives?


> the archives are active
> 
> Don wrote:
> 
> > The archives (if the archives are even still active) are only the tip
> > of the iceberg. Many of us use GMail for the list(s) and those emails
> > are archived by Google, and will probably available for searching down
> > the road.
> > 
> > On 8/2/05, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 
> >>On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 07:33:06 -0500 Jan Guthrie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Craig 
> >>>In addition, I had forgotten about the archives. Oops.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
>   85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Outlook Express - Was: Re: 108 pictures, burn in Hades, ye who netzero!

[Don]

Yes, but Thunderbird is NOT. And Thunderbird blocks images until you
say to download them.

On 8/2/05, Rob S. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> isn't G-mail web-based?
> 

-- 
Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
I don't even need the drum.

-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

Re: [MBZ] Outlook Express - Was: Re: 108 pictures, burn in Hades, ye who netzero!

[Rob S .]

isn't G-mail web-based?


On Tuesday, August 2, 2005, at 08:43 AM, TimothyPilgrim wrote:


No, the easiest is to drop OE and start using Gmail.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 8/1/05, Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Tools / Options / Security / Do not allow ...

There are other ways but this is the easiest.


___
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Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Don]

Really?  I will have to throw a CD into the tray and look. 

On 8/2/05, Richard Hattaway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I think that's covered in the service manual.
> 
> Richard
> 


-- 
Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
I don't even need the drum.

-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Richard Hattaway]

I think that's covered in the service manual.

Richard

One thing I do is wipe horizontally on the outside and vertically on
the inside. Once everything dries it's easy to see which side isn't
clean by the direction of the streaks.
 
 
Dan




Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 

[MBZ] OT: Honda Catalytic Converter

[John Robbins]

I've got a friend at work that probably needs to get a new catalytic 
converter, but we're a little confused on one issue...  McParts stores 
sell the converter for about ~$100 (with 'lifetime' warranty no less) 
whereas the dealer (and online honda places) charges $600-900.


What gives?  There has got to be SOMETHING different in them that there is 
a $600 difference!!!


Cats fail clogged right? If his cat is actually clogged (currently a 
sensor is saying "P0420, Catalyst Efficiency Low") would that possibly 
cause delayed response from the throttle and having to depress the 
pedal further than normal for a given acceleration?


Thanks guys!
John

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[Joe Knight]

Looks like it might be an improvement over the old UniSyn anyway.

joe

On 8/2/05, Gerald R. Flintrop <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> I went to www.jcwhitney.com and plugged "carburetor synchronizer" into their
> search window.
> 
>  
> 
> They came up with a product ZX882792N for about 24 bucks.

Re: [MBZ] Exhaust

[Marshall Booth]

Peter Frederick wrote:
TimeValve stainless steel is the best choice, particularly if you 
intend to keep the car any length of time as it will long outlast the 
body (so will factory replacement, probably!).


Avoid aftermarket or muffler shop made ones as you will NOT be happy 
long -- the OEM is expensive, but it FITS on the first try, and won't 
affect performance.  After market parts are mot often junk, won't last 
two years.


You definitely have a bad exhaust -- the noise in the back is indeed a 
muffler with no interior baffles anymore.


Rare for diesel exhaust systems (even the better known aftermarket ones 
- Bosal, ANSA, Eberspaecher) to need replacement in less than 10 years - 
even in Pgh (where cars often start to rust after 3-4 years) and some 
last MUCH longer. Stainless makes little sense if you don't plan to own 
the car in another 10+ years. Bosal makes an aftermarket exhaust system 
that has a lifetime warranty and they WILL honor the warranty - if you 
keep the paperwork! They replaced a muffler on one of my cars that 
failed prematurely after about 6 -7 years without any question. Factory 
exhaust parts (usually made by Eberspaecher) are a little sturdier than 
Bosal, but have a far inferior warranty.


I have had NO personal experience with TimeValve, but Stu Ritter (ran a 
shop in Denver for ~30 years, is tech editor for the Star Magazine and 
an expert on older gasoline Mercedes engines) never found the cost of 
stainless exhaust to be a good value. He points out that they DO wear 
out - they just don't rust as soon.


The noise in the rear is usually the baffles inside coming loose and 
making a racket. That's the exhaust system telling you that, "IT'S TIME!"


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[Gerald R. Flintrop]

I went to www.jcwhitney.com   and plugged
“carburetor synchronizer” into their search window.

 

They came up with a product ZX882792N
  for about
24 bucks.

 

Jerry   Ö¿Ö

   ~

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 7:52 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

 

 

Hi all,

 

are there any tools still available that will allow me to sync my two zenith
Inats on my 72 250?

 

Thanks

 

George

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Don]

Noticed the same thing you did but let it pass w/out comment -- rare for me. 

On 8/2/05, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  Stoner glass cleaner and hemp-oil soap.  There seems to be a theme here.
>  
>  --R
>  


-- 
Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
I don't even need the drum.

-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

[MBZ] Coolant Question

[meadedillon]

J.B.,

Ah, I re-re-read and finally I understand.  OK, what Marshall said. :)

Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[Darrell W. Sigmon]

Use a piece of small hose to listen to the carbs and adjust accordingly.

DWS

Joe Knight wrote:


Gave the old UniSyn I used to use on my type 3 VW to the kid next door
a few yrs ago.  Dunno if it would work on the zeniths.  Try ebay...?

joe

On 8/2/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



Hi all,

are there any tools still available that will allow me to sync my two zenith
Inats on my 72 250?



___
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Re: [MBZ] eBay Issues -- Update

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

the archives are active

Don wrote:


The archives (if the archives are even still active) are only the tip
of the iceberg. Many of us use GMail for the list(s) and those emails
are archived by Google, and will probably available for searching down
the road.

On 8/2/05, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 07:33:06 -0500 Jan Guthrie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



Craig 
In addition, I had forgotten about the archives. Oops.


 






--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] leaking oil cap

[Darrell W. Sigmon]

Just trade the oil and gas cap..

DWS

Chuck Landenberger wrote:


Dan,

If you can't get a new gasket soon, just remove the one in the cap, wipe 
out accumulated oil in the cap, turn the old gasket over and put it back 
in the cap.. Will improve the seal. BTDT...


Chuck
Phoenix, AZ
1980 300SD
On Tuesday, August 2, 2005, at 08:34 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

In a message dated 8/2/2005 6:59:20 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I have seen replacements for the oil cap and also new rubber ring
insert
replacements.  What is the preferred solution to oil leaking out of
the top
of the motor through the oil cap ?


Dan,
 
Many so called "leaks" at the cap are self induced.   Whenever I

remove the cap I always plan to wipe the inside of the cap so that
the couple of drops therein will not flow out and look like a leak. 
It doesn't help to just invert the cap.
 
If you confirm a leak, a new gasket will take care of it.  The caps

rarely wear out.
 
Regards,
 
Jim Friesen

Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles
98 ML 320, 137 K miles
___
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Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[BenzBarn]

One thing I do is wipe horizontally on the outside and vertically on the 
inside. Once everything dries it's easy to see which side isn't clean by the 
direction of the streaks.


Dan

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Rich Thomas]

Stoner glass cleaner and hemp-oil soap.  There seems to be a theme here.

--R

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

Laugh all you want, but the only thing I use to clean car windows is 
Dr. Bronner's peppermint/hemp-oil soap (available at health food 
stores).  It cuts the film on the insides of windows really well, 
doesn't leave streaks, and smells nice too.  I use two buckets, one 
with soap solution, one with clean rinse water, and three old towels.  
Scrub with one towel dipped in the soapy water, rinse with the second 
towel dipped in the clean water, and dry with the third.


Alex Chamberlain
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
'87 300D
'01 VW New Beetle TDI

On 8/2/05, *J.B. Hebert* <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> wrote:


I have had good luck with Stoner Invisible Glass.  It cleans very
well, and
seems to leave the glass more resistant to film buildup.  It does not
contain soaps, which are the primary cause of streaking.  I get it
at Walmart.

Good luck.

J.B.

At 11:43 AM 8/2/2005, you wrote:
>Any of your folks have any tips on what to use to clean car
windows? I
>am particularly interested in a deep cleaning on the interior
side of
>the windshield (plastic dash = dirty window) and the rear window.
Once
>upon a time I used a spray bottle with distilled water with a drop of
>baby shampoo but haven't tried that for a while.
>
>
>--
>Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
>I don't even need the drum.
>
>-
>
>LT Don
>1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug)
>1972 Honda CB-500K
>
>___
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

>For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
>For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


___
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Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[Alex Chamberlain]

Laugh all you want, but the only thing I use to clean car windows is Dr. 
Bronner's peppermint/hemp-oil soap (available at health food stores). It 
cuts the film on the insides of windows really well, doesn't leave streaks, 
and smells nice too. I use two buckets, one with soap solution, one with 
clean rinse water, and three old towels. Scrub with one towel dipped in the 
soapy water, rinse with the second towel dipped in the clean water, and dry 
with the third.

Alex Chamberlain
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300D
'01 VW New Beetle TDI

On 8/2/05, J.B. Hebert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> I have had good luck with Stoner Invisible Glass. It cleans very well, and
> seems to leave the glass more resistant to film buildup. It does not
> contain soaps, which are the primary cause of streaking. I get it at 
> Walmart.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> J.B.
> 
> At 11:43 AM 8/2/2005, you wrote:
> >Any of your folks have any tips on what to use to clean car windows? I
> >am particularly interested in a deep cleaning on the interior side of
> >the windshield (plastic dash = dirty window) and the rear window. Once
> >upon a time I used a spray bottle with distilled water with a drop of
> >baby shampoo but haven't tried that for a while.
> >
> >
> >--
> >Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
> >I don't even need the drum.
> >
> >-
> >
> >LT Don
> >1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug)
> >1972 Honda CB-500K
> >
> >___
> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> >For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

[MBZ] leaking oil cap

[meadedillon]

A little tip gleaned from Doktor MB: Do not ever invert the oil cap; when you 
remove it, place it right side up on a rag or paper towel.  Try this method and 
see if you 'leak' goes away, it worked for me.

If that doesn't work, you can try replacing just the rubber seal (available 
from Rusty) or the whole cap (likewise) or the entire valve cover (again, but 
rather $$$!)

Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC

Re: [MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[Chuck Landenberger]

Brian,

Good idea, Meade  I recently used the MB Trip Routing service @ 
1-800-4mercedes number. I told them I wanted to drive about 600 miles a 
day and could they give me some assistance.  Got a nice spiral route 
map w/spaced stops as my request.  In the back of the booklet is a 
listing of dealers along the route.  Also a listing of hotel/motel 
contact numbers and internet addresses.  And the price was right


My trip from Phoenix to Danville, VA for Tri-O-Rama at Virginia 
International Raceway.  I plan on stops in Amarillo, TX, Memphis, TN,  
and Jackson TN w/ a last day run of only about 200 miles into Danville. 
 I leave on 9/6 and arrive 9/9 if the river don't rise..


Another source of route information is 
http://www.freetrip.com/cgi-bin/autopilot2.plEnter the start and 
end places for your trip and gives directions and accumulated/remaining 
miles and times.  Motels also listed ...


Hope this helps.

Chuck
Phoenix, AZ
1980 300SD
On Tuesday, August 2, 2005, at 07:45  AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:



Shipmate,

When in a similar position, I queried the list and provided my 
intended route, and asked for information and POC numbers etc.  
Several listers responded privately to let me know either they were 
available to help with emergencies, or provided their recommended 
mechanic's info.


I didn't need any help as it turned out, but was nice to know that I 
at least had a shoulder to cry on if things really went south.


Why don't you call 1-800-4-merc, and use MB's trip planning service 
(free but takes a couple weeks) to let them plan the route, then feed 
us the info and let folks chime in as they can?


Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line

[Gabriel S.]

where did you find the manual?

Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Yep. And access to the 124 pdf's was 
surprisingly fast w/ a broadband
connection; the one time I tried skinnerbox it took much longer.

joe

On 8/2/05, Rich Thomas wrote:
> Looks like the CD manuals being fed up the line.

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Gabriel S.
1987 300D
Southern California
230K+




__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

Re: [MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line

[Joe Knight]

Yep.  And access to the 124 pdf's was surprisingly fast w/ a broadband
connection; the one time I tried skinnerbox it took much longer.

joe

On 8/2/05, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Looks like the CD manuals being fed up the line.

Re: [MBZ] 603.XXX Rough Idle

[Marshall Booth]

Peter Arnold wrote:

My car seems to be idling too slow (about 600rpm) and is rough.

It runs fine off idle.
Fuel Mileage is good.
I've changed the "Over Voltage Relay" as suggested.
The idle controller in engine compartment seems to have no
effect.

Would the engine idle poorly and run smooth with a bad injector?  How
do you trouble shoot injectors?


This is NOT an injector problem! To check the idle circuit - start the 
engine cold and as soon as it's running unplug the wire to the idle 
control actuator on the rear of the injection pump - the idle should 
drop (and the engine MAY stall) if the circuit is working as it should. 
The same thing should happen if you unplug the overvoltage relay shortly 
after the engine is started. If the idle speed doesn't drop AT LEAST 50 
rpm, then something is wrong. When the plug to the actuator OR the 
overvoltage relay are plugged back in (engine warm), the idle speed 
should increase by at least 50 rpm (usually more and then settle down).


Warm engine speed with the plug or relay unplugged should be 570 rpm - 
with the plug or relay in the circuit the speed should be 620 rpm. The 
tach on the dash MAY NOT be accurate, but should at least respond in the 
appropriate direction to the plugging/unplugging the actuator or relay.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass

[J.B. Hebert]

I have had good luck with Stoner Invisible Glass.  It cleans very well, and 
seems to leave the glass more resistant to film buildup.  It does not 
contain soaps, which are the primary cause of streaking.  I get it at Walmart.


Good luck.

J.B.

At 11:43 AM 8/2/2005, you wrote:

Any of your folks have any tips on what to use to clean car windows? I
am particularly interested in a deep cleaning on the interior side of
the windshield (plastic dash = dirty window) and the rear window. Once
upon a time I used a spray bottle with distilled water with a drop of
baby shampoo but haven't tried that for a while.


--
Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
I don't even need the drum.

-

LT Don
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug)
1972 Honda CB-500K

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Re: [MBZ] leaking oil cap

[Chuck Landenberger]

Dan,

If you can't get a new gasket soon, just remove the one in the cap, 
wipe out accumulated oil in the cap, turn the old gasket over and put 
it back in the cap..  Will improve the seal.  BTDT...


Chuck
Phoenix, AZ
1980 300SD
On Tuesday, August 2, 2005, at 08:34  AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

In a message dated 8/2/2005 6:59:20 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


I have seen replacements for the oil cap and also new rubber ring 
insert
replacements.  What is the preferred solution to oil leaking out of 
the top

of the motor through the oil cap ?


Dan,
 
Many so called "leaks" at the cap are self induced.   Whenever I 
remove the cap I always plan to wipe the inside of the cap so that the 
couple of drops therein will not flow out and look like a leak.  It 
doesn't help to just invert the cap.

 
If you confirm a leak, a new gasket will take care of it.  The caps 
rarely wear out.

 
Regards,
 
Jim Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles
98 ML 320, 137 K miles
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Re: [MBZ] VIbration identified

[Marshall Booth]

Loren Faeth wrote:
Yep, that is it.  Sometimes ok, sometimes terrible.  Sometimes it would 
stop if you stop, and then start out again.  I would pull over and stop on 
the interstate if it got really bad.  Most times that helped.




I had an axle on my 190D 2.0 that developed a stiff spot that sometimes 
caused problems (usually after more than an hour of driving). Eventually 
detectable even when turned by hand. I had a spare and replaced it. 
Problem solved.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] Stop me please before I do something I will regret

[Rich Thomas]

Houston, I haven't gone to look at it closely, trying to resist being 
assimilated.  If you are interested, I'll give you the guy's number or 
go look at it for you.


--R

Ed Booher wrote:


I'll stop you! Provided you are close enough to me for me to buy it
before you cave in. Where are you at again?

On 7/29/05, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 


On an errand this morning, saw a 450SEL with a for sale, $1200.   Looked
pretty nice, blue/blue, paint a bit faded, a few dings here and there,
interior nice.  Called the guy, it's a 77, 120k miles or so, A/C working
but might need a recharge, tranny takes a few minutes to start shifting
right but then OK, he's owned it since 81, all service at Enzo Luzo's
place in that time.  Probably get it for $1k.

Stop me please.

--R


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Re: [MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line

[Rich Thomas]

Looks like the CD manuals being fed up the line.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




Hello All,

I found these weblink resources that seem to go beyond the skinnerbox
links:

http://mb.braingears.com

As Nick Burns says, "you're welcome"

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 83kmi


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Re: [MBZ] Turbo adjustment on a 300SDL, A/C & search for parts

[Marshall Booth]

Nick Gough wrote:

BTW, when the A/C is on, and I try to accelerate hard, the car seems 
slower and I don't hear or feel the A/C cutoff. I could have a faulty 
switch, I guess.
 
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the advice.
 
I guess since no one has responded on the seat thingy, that no one has a 
seat or a line on one. I will have to resort to it being repaired, I 
guess. Ouch!!! :>(


Microswitch S27/1 (located near the junction of the accelerator cable 
and the mechanical linkage to the IP etc.) should shut off the 
compressor whenever the pedal is floored - or even very near the floor! 
So the compressor should NOT be on when measuring acceleration! Be SURE 
that when the pedal is floored that the injection pump lever moves to 
the stop AND the microswitch "clicks." Make sure when the switch clicks 
it closes (electrically).


Left and right seat bottoms are interchangeable!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

[MBZ] Wulf strikes (haha) again!

[Christopher McCann]

"He" ate another bird...a starling this morning for
breakfast. I guess diesel fuel doesn't have the
protein content it used to. :-)



Christopher McCann, Raytown, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 208K miles, "Wulf" http://don.homelinux.net/mbz/Chris
-1976 240D, ManyK miles,  "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen 
= Alternative Fuel Test Vehicle)
-1998 Toyota Sienna CE, 99K miles, "The Van"




Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 

[MBZ] cleaning glass

[Don]

Any of your folks have any tips on what to use to clean car windows? I
am particularly interested in a deep cleaning on the interior side of
the windshield (plastic dash = dirty window) and the rear window. Once
upon a time I used a spray bottle with distilled water with a drop of
baby shampoo but haven't tried that for a while.


-- 
Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
I don't even need the drum.

-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

Re: [MBZ] Turbo adjustment on a 300SDL, A/C & search for parts

[Nick Gough]

Joe, I confess... the truent officers have tried to catch me, but I've eluded 
them... thus far. It seems that the 300SDL is still faster than a Chevette. :>)
 
I'll get this checked out, if I can't do it myself. It appears as if the final 
verdict could be an ALDA adjustment or a cleanout. Sounds like a RotoRooter job 
could need to be performed.
 
The car rarely smokes in the summer (in the winter, only during cold starts, 
even with good glowplugs, etc, etc).
 
Dave, thanks for the pic... I will look into that. It is weird, though, as all 
has been fine for the last week or so. It has R134 in it and a newer compressor.
 
BTW, when the A/C is on, and I try to accelerate hard, the car seems slower and 
I don't hear or feel the A/C cutoff. I could have a faulty switch, I guess.
 
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the advice.
 
I guess since no one has responded on the seat thingy, that no one has a seat 
or a line on one. I will have to resort to it being repaired, I guess. Ouch!!! 
:>(
 
 
Nick Gough
Dayton

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 09:20:19 -0700
From: Joe Knight 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Turbo adjustment on a 300SDL, A/C & search for
parts
To: Mercedes mailing list 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

You've pretty obviously been playin' hooky for a while now, Nick. ;) 
Your times are on the slow side, but before you start foolin' with the
wastegate you need to patch in a pressure gauge to the boost line to
the ALDA, preferably right near it rather than further upstream, and
run it into the passenger compartment (out thru the back of the open
hood and back in at the front door jamb works fine using standard vac
line). Take it for a good full throttle run and see what kind of
boost it's showing at speed. If it's not at least in the 8-10 psi
range you want to make sure that the fitting on the manifold and the
pressure lines themselves aren't plugged and that the overboost
protection switch is working. You can, at least temporarily, bypass
that last as a diagnostic aid. After you've confirmed decent boost
and if it's still slow, you'll want to pressurize the ALDA direct with
your gauge hooked up so as to make sure it's able to transmit the info
the pressure line is sending on to the pump. Without the additional
fuel that the ALDA calls in, no amount of boost is going to improve
your performance one whit, and too much boost is just and only a
direct power drain. If everything else looks ok, you might benefit
some from an ALDA adjustment.

joe

On 8/1/05, Nick Gough wrote:
> 
> 
> In my early efforts to sell the 86 300SDL (I've postponed that one a year or
> so... finances), someone mentioned after driving it, that the turbo was weak
> and it needed to be adjusted. He suggested that it was a valve of some sort.
> I've always thought that the only adjustment on any turbo was the wastegate.
> The car does fine with the A/C off, in the 0-60mph run (about 14 secs) and
> about 16-18 secs with the A/C on.
> 
> A/C is another story... most of the time it is great, but sometimes it just
> doesn't kick in... like a switch or fuse is keeping the compressor from
> kicking in.
> 
> Anyone with advice?



--

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 10:33:16 -0600
From: "Dave M." 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Turbo adjustment on a 300SDL, A/C & search for
parts
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Hi Nick,

It's highly unlikely the turbo wastegate needs adjustment. More likely
is the ALDA needs a slight tweak. Your numbers are pretty close to
spec, you should be approx 13 seconds to 60mph near sea level assuming
your speedo is accurate (check with GPS) and you are using a stopwatch
for timing. If you put a boost gauge on the car, put a "T" in the line
to the ALDA, spec is 12-14psi at 4000rpm at full throttle under load.
Most OM603's are set around 12psi, in my experience. A half-turn CCW
of the ALDA screw might be enough to help things out, maybe a full
turn if you don't get excess smoke leaving a stop.

The odd part is the car is slower with the AC on. There is a WOT
cutout switch on the throttle linkage that is supposed to turn of the
AC compressor at full throttle. Perhaps your throttle linkage is not
adjusted properly, or the switch is faulty, or a wire is broken. With
the AC on, you should be able to push the switch with your finger and
observe the compressor turn off while the switch is engaged. Here's a
photo of the switch:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_misc/microswitch.jpg

Not sure about the AC engagement issue, could be one of a number of
things - not sure where to start. I'm not a W126 expert so I'll let
someone else pipe up on that topic.

:-)

HTH, 

Dave M.
Boise, ID



-
 Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 

Re: [MBZ] leaking oil cap

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 8/2/2005 6:59:20 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I have  seen replacements for the oil cap and also new rubber ring  insert
replacements.  What is the preferred solution to oil leaking  out of the top
of the motor through the oil cap  ?



Dan,
 
Many so called "leaks" at the cap are self induced.   Whenever I  remove the 
cap I always plan to wipe the inside of the cap so that the couple of  drops 
therein will not flow out and look like a leak.  It doesn't help to  just 
invert the cap.
 
If you confirm a leak, a new gasket will take care of it.  The caps  rarely 
wear out.
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles 
98 ML 320, 137 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Question

[Marshall Booth]

J.B. Hebert wrote:
The problem is that it is stabilizing below the low coolant level, whereas 
is should be stabilizing around the cold fill level (when cold).  That 
coolant is going somewhere, and it isn't going out the overflow tube.  I 
put a catch can in just to make sure, and it's bone dry.


Stabilizing BELOW the "kalt" line is characteristic when the cap leaks 
(allowing fluid to escape when it get's hot) or there is a crack 
(usually at the seam) in the reservoir.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] New Personal MPG Best and Coolant Question

[Marshall Booth]

J.B. Hebert wrote:
So, it was a banner day on Friday when I set my personal best, finally 
breaking the 30 MPG barrier in my E300D with an average of 30.56 MPG over 
558 miles.  While I'm sure having a non-operational A/C system has helped, 
I swear it has been better since the vacuum pump was replaced.  Maybe the 
old pump was on its way out for a while and not operating the diverter 
flaps in the intake to best effect.  This is still lower than I had hoped, 
but at least it's better.


Now for the question:  About 2 weeks ago I started loosing coolant.  My 
first thought was, "God, not another head gasket."  But inspection reveals 
no leaks around the head; no visible leaks anywhere, for that matter.  The 
odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line when the engine is 
cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the bottom of the 
reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, so it blinks on 
and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and then it stays 
there.  As a test, I drove a week without topping off and the coolant level 
never dropped more than another 1/'2" or so, still visible in the 
reservoir.  The other odd thing is that the coolant level is always higher 
when cold; most often when I start the car the light will be out, then as 
the car warms up the light comes on.  The coolant should expand when hot, 
so I'd expect the opposite to be true.  The cap is new and appears to be 
holding pressure fine.  There is no coolant smell, nor have I found any 
coolant under the car, in the splash guards, or anywhere else that I can 
see.  The overflow hose is dry and there is no evidence of dry coolant 
residue near it.  This car does not have the second coolant reservoir in 
the fender.


Any suggestions would be appreciated.


What you report is consistent with a bad pressure cap OR with a cracked 
reservoir. I've experienced BOTH with 201/124s (the caps and reservoirs 
seem to have about the same life span) and the symptoms are precisely as 
you describe. The cap is cheap and the reservoir not outrageous (but 
more expensive than the cap ;-). Probably less expensive to replace them 
both yourself than have the problem diagnosed - and about the same 
probability of successfully solving the problem.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] Coolant Question

[J.B. Hebert]

The problem is that it is stabilizing below the low coolant level, whereas 
is should be stabilizing around the cold fill level (when cold).  That 
coolant is going somewhere, and it isn't going out the overflow tube.  I 
put a catch can in just to make sure, and it's bone dry.


Thanks,

J.B.


At 10:50 AM 8/2/2005, you wrote:

J.B.,

"The odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line when the 
engine is

cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the bottom of the
reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, so it blinks on
and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and then it stays
there. As a test, I drove a week without topping off and the coolant level
never dropped more than another 1/'2" or so, still visible in the
reservoir."

If I understand correctly, your coolant level will drop and then 
stabilize?  If it is stablizing, then I don't see the problem.  What is 
going on is you're over filling, and the excess is leaving via the 
overflow tube.  My car will do the same thing.


The 'problem' may be that you are looking for one and it doesn't exist!


Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC


___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Syncing carbs

[Joe Knight]

Gave the old UniSyn I used to use on my type 3 VW to the kid next door
a few yrs ago.  Dunno if it would work on the zeniths.  Try ebay...?

joe

On 8/2/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  
> Hi all,
>  
> are there any tools still available that will allow me to sync my two zenith
> Inats on my 72 250?

Re: [MBZ] 86 190D 4 sale but AC doesn't work

[72benz250]

Advance auto parts has them for 288 + the model Nippondenso # is 10P15c Here is 
one on ebay for $50 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura-Legend-AC-A-C-Compressor-Nippondenso-10P15C-4dr_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33543QQitemZ7990317948QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

-- Original message -- 

> degcoast wrote: 
> > Marshall, 
> > As usual this is helpful. I have been looking at some 201's with AC issues. 
> > How expensive is the Nippondenso compressor unit? I always think a grand. 
> > Is 
> > that close? 
> 
> I haven't bought a NEW Nippondenso compressor for 6-8 years (they were 
> $500-600 then) but they were about $800 when I priced one a couple of 
> years ago. Mercedes rebuilds were ~$450 then. The other very expensive 
> item is the manifold hose assembly - that was more than $300 when I last 
> priced it (more than $400 for a 124). 
> 
> Marshall 
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) 
> "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
> 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi 
> Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection 
> http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm 
> 
> 
> ___ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

Re: [MBZ] 86 190D 4 sale but AC doesn't work

[Marshall Booth]

degcoast wrote:

Marshall,
As usual this is helpful.  I have been looking at some 201's with AC issues. 
How expensive is the Nippondenso compressor unit? I always think a grand. Is 
that close?


I haven't bought a NEW Nippondenso compressor for 6-8 years (they were 
$500-600 then) but they were about $800 when I priced one a couple of 
years ago. Mercedes rebuilds were ~$450 then. The other very expensive 
item is the manifold hose assembly - that was more than $300 when I last 
priced it (more than $400 for a 124).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

[MBZ] Syncing carbs

[72benz250]

Hi all,

are there any tools still available that will allow me to sync my two zenith 
Inats on my 72 250?

Thanks

George

[MBZ] Coolant Question

[meadedillon]

J.B.,

"The odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line when the engine 
is 
cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the bottom of the 
reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, so it blinks on 
and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and then it stays 
there. As a test, I drove a week without topping off and the coolant level 
never dropped more than another 1/'2" or so, still visible in the 
reservoir."

If I understand correctly, your coolant level will drop and then stabilize?  If 
it is stablizing, then I don't see the problem.  What is going on is you're 
over filling, and the excess is leaving via the overflow tube.  My car will do 
the same thing.

The 'problem' may be that you are looking for one and it doesn't exist!


Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC

[MBZ] MB Service Manuals On-line

[DElliott%SWS]

Hello All,

I found these weblink resources that seem to go beyond the skinnerbox
links:

http://mb.braingears.com

As Nick Burns says, "you're welcome"

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 83kmi

[MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[meadedillon]

Shipmate,

When in a similar position, I queried the list and provided my intended route, 
and asked for information and POC numbers etc.  Several listers responded 
privately to let me know either they were available to help with emergencies, 
or provided their recommended mechanic's info.

I didn't need any help as it turned out, but was nice to know that I at least 
had a shoulder to cry on if things really went south.

Why don't you call 1-800-4-merc, and use MB's trip planning service (free but 
takes a couple weeks) to let them plan the route, then feed us the info and let 
folks chime in as they can?

Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC

Re: [MBZ] Substitute for ATE brake cylinder paste?

[Joe Knight]

Kind of annoying that stuff can't be sourced easily over here.  
Stuff's not exactly cheap but I suppose a little goes a long way. 
Wonder what, if anything, the commercial rebuilders use, probably
brake fluid...

joe

On 8/2/05, RAH <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  
> I did find a place across the pond that sells the real stuff.  I have
> know Idea if they will ship it here.   http://tinyurl.com/92g25

Re: [MBZ] Oribinal Prices?

[Rich Thomas]

That's good news.  Now I can tell my wife we have a $30k car parked out 
front.  What a bargain it is.


--R

Marshall Booth wrote:


Rich Thomas wrote:
 

I think you can contact MB and they will send you a copy of the original 
window sticker.  Somebody said that at some time.  I seem to recall that 
a 79 300TD was about $US25k or so, someone said at some time.  So maybe 
a 76 300D was maybe $20kish?  That was a lot of money back then.  I 
remember a friend of mine's dad bought a new 123 gasser (a 280?) back 
about 78, and I recall it was $22k or so at the time -- he was an 
orthopedic surgeon, had the money, bought my friend and his brother a 
Vega for them to drive, what a POS that thing was.  We went out driving 
in it one night, that thing was a fine ride -- fast, handling, ride quality.
   



Between Feb '79 and Nov '80 the sticker price of a 123 300TD jumped from 
$$23,900 to $31,400.


Marshall
 

Re: [MBZ] Oribinal Prices?

[Marshall Booth]

Rich Thomas wrote:
I think you can contact MB and they will send you a copy of the original 
window sticker.  Somebody said that at some time.  I seem to recall that 
a 79 300TD was about $US25k or so, someone said at some time.  So maybe 
a 76 300D was maybe $20kish?  That was a lot of money back then.  I 
remember a friend of mine's dad bought a new 123 gasser (a 280?) back 
about 78, and I recall it was $22k or so at the time -- he was an 
orthopedic surgeon, had the money, bought my friend and his brother a 
Vega for them to drive, what a POS that thing was.  We went out driving 
in it one night, that thing was a fine ride -- fast, handling, ride quality.


Between Feb '79 and Nov '80 the sticker price of a 123 300TD jumped from 
$$23,900 to $31,400.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] Oribinal Prices?

[Marshall Booth]

R A Bennell wrote:

Anyone know what it cost to buy a 1976 300D brand new off the dealer's lot?

Randy in Winnipeg


In 1975 the East coast sticker price of a W115 300D was about $13,500.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm

Re: [MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[Don]

On I-35 in Iowa you'd have two options. There is European Motor Cars
in Des Moines as the "authorized" dealer. But given that you are in
Iowa, most of the mechanics you will encounter will have had
considerable diesel experience, although more on farm machinery than
on a Benz.

[MBZ] leaking oil cap

[DElliott%SWS]

I have seen replacements for the oil cap and also new rubber ring insert
replacements.  What is the preferred solution to oil leaking out of the top
of the motor through the oil cap ?

TIA,

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 83kmi

Re: [MBZ] 300 D/TD/SD, etc. air cleaner rubber blocks (RAH)

[DElliott%SWS]

>I was having the same problem with broken rubber mounts and broken
steel bracket that the rubber mounts screw into. I >kept a stock of these
>http://tinyurl.com/bpyzb and http://tinyurl.com/75mkc  on hand and
repaired the bracket 4-5 times. >http://tinyurl.com/ckwu4
>Over a year ago I replaced the motor mounts and I haven't had a
problem with the air cleaner, and it idles like a >dream! I did not put the
rubber block >between the airfilter housing and valve cover.
>The only thing I can't find for the aircleaner is the grommet for the
oil separator passthru in the lid. Right now I >have a glad-hand seal in
the lid and its a very tight fit and makes it hard to get the lid on and
off! If anyone has the >part# for that grommet please let me know, I cant
find it in the EPC.

I am having the same trouble.
Any advice on replacing the motor mounts ?  A step-by-step description
would be great.

TIA,

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 83kmi

Re: [MBZ] VIbration identified

[stevebailey3373]

Interesting thread. I drove from Morristown TN to Murfreesboro Tn and back (500 
miles) yesterday (8/1/05) and when I got to Murfreesboro, I heard a knock like 
you described. I would pull over  and check underneath and find nothing. It 
would come and go, seemingly at will. Stop and then start and no problem. I was 
able to get it back home, with the last 60 miles no noise at all. My conclusion 
is that I have a problem with the axle, and I believe it is on the right hand 
side. I took a few turns at high speeds so maybe somehow this caused a problem. 
I  will investigate further today, but did check and Rusty has these axles, 
rebuilt for $108. Not bad. I will post my findings. I thought the problem could 
be tires, driveshaft, even loose body parts or bouncing muffler. The only thing 
is  my car is very tight, with  no rust evident.

Steve Bailey
1983 240D 108000 miles.

Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>For what it is worth:  Maybe someone can learn from this experience.
>
>On my 86 SDL, I have had problems the past couple of years with 
>vibrations.  Initially, it seemed like tires, and i'd take it in to the 
>tire shop, and they would find slipped belts and sell me a new tire.  This 
>got very old,  Last fall, we changed the carrier bearing rubber 
>mount.  that seemed like it took care of the problem for a while, then it 
>came back.
>
>Friday night, we put it up on the hoist, and checked things 
>out.  everything seemed ok.  Carrier bearing looked good, axles tight, and 
>tires reasonably round.   I climbed up a ladder and started the car and ran 
>it up to 60-70 mph.  Vibration there.  Switched positions, and my brother 
>ran the car up to 70mph.  Driveshaft was smooth as silk.  no bouncing 
>tires.  The left axle shaft looked normal, but the right one was moving 
>back and forth along the centerline, toward the dif, then toward the 
>tire.  I pulled it out and the outer end is stiff.  Inner end seems to be 
>normal.  Since i didn't have a spare axle, I pulled the boot and pumped 
>some grease in, then put it back together.  Theory that grease can't hurt a 
>stiff joint, and it might loosen up while i try to find a used axle.  I 
>have never seen an axle fail in this mode.  I have only seen them get loose 
>and rattle around.  (still annoying)
>
>
>IN the process, I found out that all 126s are not equal.  My 126 junker has 
>the 123 style axles, that you have to pull the diff cover to unclip.  THe 
>SDL has the newer style.
>
>
>___
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
>For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

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Re: [MBZ] eBay Issues -- Update

[Don]

The archives (if the archives are even still active) are only the tip
of the iceberg. Many of us use GMail for the list(s) and those emails
are archived by Google, and will probably available for searching down
the road.

On 8/2/05, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 07:33:06 -0500 Jan Guthrie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > Craig 
>> In addition, I had forgotten about the archives. Oops.
 



-- 
Some folks march to the beat of a different drummer.
I don't even need the drum.

-

LT Don 
1977 Mercedes 240D (Slug) 
1972 Honda CB-500K

Re: [MBZ] Substitute for ATE brake cylinder paste?

[RAH]

I did find a place across the pond that sells the real stuff.  I have know 
Idea if they will ship it here.   http://tinyurl.com/92g25  


Russ H.

Re: [MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[John Robbins]

On Mon, 1 Aug 2005, Brian Chase wrote:

Has anyone ever compiled a list of Klatta-friendly garages on their route 
before embarking on a long road trip? Don't know if there is a good way to 
even do this.


I think that you're following the same path of what has been done 
before... Also, I think there is a forum at mercedesshop.com that talks 
about what shops are good and which ones to avoid.


Soon I'll *finally* be bringing my 240D home. The trip will be from Tucson to 
Rochester, Minnesota.


It didn't work out in May I take it?

Best of luck,
John

Re: [MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[John Robbins]

Hm... I'll have to add that... ;)  I've got something planned for the list 
and GMaps, but I need to get the rear end re-attached to my car first.


John

On Tue, 2 Aug 2005, Rich Thomas wrote:

There is some way to do this kind of thing with Google maps (maps.google.com) 
but I have not done it.  There is a web site with real-time police/fire 
incident info that is coupled to maps


http://www.incidentlog.com/lookup.pl?Src=12

that illustrates what can be done.

--R

Re: [MBZ] [db] New Personal MPG Best and Coolant Question

[J.B. Hebert]

At 04:46 AM 8/2/2005, you wrote:

On Mon, Aug 01, 2005 at 03:20:24PM -0400, J.B. Hebert wrote:
> So, it was a banner day on Friday when I set my personal best, finally
> breaking the 30 MPG barrier in my E300D with an average of 30.56 MPG over
> 558 miles.  While I'm sure having a non-operational A/C system has helped,
> I swear it has been better since the vacuum pump was replaced.  Maybe the
> old pump was on its way out for a while and not operating the diverter
> flaps in the intake to best effect.  This is still lower than I had hoped,
> but at least it's better.

Interesting. Something to keep in mind if I ever end up with a NA 606.

> Now for the question:  About 2 weeks ago I started loosing coolant.  My
> first thought was, "God, not another head gasket."  But inspection reveals
> no leaks around the head; no visible leaks anywhere, for that matter.  The
> odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line when the 
engine is

> cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the bottom of the
> reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, so it blinks on
> and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and then it stays
> there.  As a test, I drove a week without topping off and the coolant 
level

> never dropped more than another 1/'2" or so, still visible in the
> reservoir.  The other odd thing is that the coolant level is always higher
> when cold; most often when I start the car the light will be out, then as
> the car warms up the light comes on.  The coolant should expand when hot,
> so I'd expect the opposite to be true.  The cap is new and appears to be
> holding pressure fine.  There is no coolant smell, nor have I found any
> coolant under the car, in the splash guards, or anywhere else that I can
> see.  The overflow hose is dry and there is no evidence of dry coolant
> residue near it.  This car does not have the second coolant reservoir in
> the fender.

I can think of five possibilities -
  - overflow (which you seem to have ruled out, but check for cracks in the
tank, BTDT)
  - pinhole leak in a hose or the radiator - won't put water on the ground,
but instead steam coolant out slowly at operating temperature
  - loose hose - won't necessarily leak noticeable traces out, but will leak
out water to a point. BTDT with the wagon, it was the top hose. I think
I'm fighting another loose hose in that car, but I don't drive it much,
so I haven't really messed with it.
  external leaks ruled out, it's internal:
  - into the oil through the head gasket or head
  - into the combustion chamber through the head gasket or head

FWIW, when the white car cracked its head, trace amounts of antifreeze
were detectable in the oil - just barely on the scale.

Have you tried operating the car without the cap pressurizing the cooling
system? It's an effective diagnosis tool, but you have to watch your temp
gauge like a hawk on the hills or in traffic. The always higher when cool
makes me think there's a bubble of air in the cooling system on the other
side of the thermostat. Running it without pressure may alleviate this,
burping the system.

K


It could be the overflow tank or other small leak.  I am planning on having 
the system pressure tested which should indicate if that's the case.  We 
both know my thoughts on any kind of head gasket issue.  (Speaking of 
which, did you ship your old one yet? :)  If I find traces of coolant in 
the oil or tailpipe, that motor is coming out, even if it means replacing 
it with a gerbil wheel.  I haven't tried operating it without pressure, but 
if it's reasonably cool today when I leave work, I might top it off and 
give that a try.


Thanks.

J.B. 

Re: [MBZ] [db] New Personal MPG Best and Coolant Question

[J.B. Hebert]

At 11:55 PM 8/1/2005, you wrote:
Now for the question:  About 2 weeks ago I started loosing coolant.  My 
first thought was, "God, not another head gasket."  But inspection 
reveals no leaks around the head; no visible leaks anywhere, for that 
matter.  The odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line 
when the engine is cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the 
bottom of the reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, 
so it blinks on and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and 
then it stays there.  As a test, I drove a week without topping off and 
the coolant level never dropped more than another 1/'2" or so, still 
visible in the reservoir.  The other odd thing is that the coolant level 
is always higher when cold; most often when I start the car the light 
will be out, then as the car warms up the light comes on.  The coolant 
should expand when hot, so I'd expect the opposite to be true.  The cap 
is new and appears to be holding pressure fine.  There is no coolant 
smell, nor have I found any coolant under the car, in the splash guards, 
or anywhere else that I can see.  The overflow hose is dry and there is 
no evidence of dry coolant residue near it.  This car does not have the 
second coolant reservoir in the fender.


Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.


There may be air in your system.  Did you run out of coolant in the reservoir?
Do you park your car at an angle where the coolant in the reservoir is 
tilted away from the outlet to your radiator?
Have someone drive behind your car and see if there is any steam coming 
out. It's going somewhere, if there is no air in your system that it is 
replacing.


This happened on my motorcycle.  I had left air in the system when I 
changed the coolant.  It is a little tough to burp it.


Dan


I never ran the reservoir empty, and it's always parked flat.  The car has 
been driven about 10,000 miles since the last coolant flush, so I'm not 
sure it's a bubble from that... it would have to be new.


I'll double check the exhaust for traces of coolant, but it seems good from 
what I've seen.


Thanks,


J.B. Hebert

--
Current Vehicles:

'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
'93 GMC Sierra 2500
'95 Mercedes E300D 

Re: [MBZ] [db] New Personal MPG Best and Coolant Question

[J.B. Hebert]

Yep.  No smell or funny vapor.

J.B.

At 08:22 PM 8/1/2005, you wrote:
That is strange.  Have you tried to turn on the heat and check if you can 
smell it?


Marc Z.
'83 300D Turbo
'83 300TD
'89 Jeep Cherokee ( XJ)  Laredo
'00 Town and Country

J.B. Hebert wrote:

So, it was a banner day on Friday when I set my personal best, finally 
breaking the 30 MPG barrier in my E300D with an average of 30.56 MPG over 
558 miles.  While I'm sure having a non-operational A/C system has 
helped, I swear it has been better since the vacuum pump was 
replaced.  Maybe the old pump was on its way out for a while and not 
operating the diverter flaps in the intake to best effect.  This is still 
lower than I had hoped, but at least it's better.


Now for the question:  About 2 weeks ago I started loosing coolant.
My first thought was, "God, not another head gasket."  But inspection 
reveals no leaks around the head; no visible leaks anywhere, for that 
matter.  The odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line 
when the engine is cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the 
bottom of the reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, 
so it blinks on and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and 
then it stays there.  As a test, I drove a week without topping off and 
the coolant level never dropped more than another 1/'2" or so, still 
visible in the reservoir.  The other odd thing is that the coolant level 
is always higher when cold; most often when I start the car the light 
will be out, then as the car warms up the light comes on.  The coolant 
should expand when hot, so I'd expect the opposite to be true.  The cap 
is new and appears to be holding pressure fine.  There is no coolant 
smell, nor have I found any coolant under the car, in the splash guards, 
or anywhere else that I can see.  The overflow hose is dry and there is 
no evidence of dry coolant residue near it.  This car does not have the 
second coolant reservoir in the fender.


Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.


J.B. Hebert

--
Current Vehicles:

'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
'93 GMC Sierra 2500
'95 Mercedes E300D

Re: [MBZ] 300 D/TD/SD, etc. air cleaner rubber blocks

[RAH]

I was having the same problem with broken rubber mounts and broken steel 
bracket that the rubber mounts screw into. I kept a stock of these 
http://tinyurl.com/bpyzb and http://tinyurl.com/75mkc  on hand and repaired the 
bracket 4-5 times. http://tinyurl.com/ckwu4 
Over a year ago I replaced the motor mounts and I haven't had a problem 
with the air cleaner, and it idles like a dream! I did not put the rubber block 
between the airfilter housing and valve cover.
The only thing I can't find for the aircleaner is the grommet for the oil 
separator passthru in the lid. Right now I have a glad-hand seal in the lid and 
its a very tight fit and makes it hard to get the lid on and off! If anyone has 
the part# for that grommet please let me know, I cant find it in the EPC.

 Russ H. 82 300SD

Re: [MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[Rich Thomas]

There is some way to do this kind of thing with Google maps 
(maps.google.com) but I have not done it.  There is a web site with 
real-time police/fire incident info that is coupled to maps


http://www.incidentlog.com/lookup.pl?Src=12

that illustrates what can be done.

--R


Brian Chase wrote:

Has anyone ever compiled a list of Klatta-friendly garages on their 
route before embarking on a long road trip? Don't know if there is a 
good way to even do this.


Soon I'll *finally* be bringing my 240D home. The trip will be from 
Tucson to Rochester, Minnesota.


I usually go through NM, TX, then up through, hmm. Well I know the 
half way point is Liberal, KS. And I know I come up I 35 through IA. 
It's been some time since I last made the trip.


Anyway, is there a resource?

Brian
83 240D 121k

_
Don't just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/





___
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For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

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Re: [MBZ] Outlook Express - Was: Re: 108 pictures, burn in Hades, ye who netzero!

[TimothyPilgrim]

No, the easiest is to drop OE and start using Gmail.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 8/1/05, Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Tools / Options / Security / Do not allow ...
> 
> There are other ways but this is the easiest.

Re: [MBZ] eBay Issues -- Update

[Craig McCluskey]

On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 07:33:06 -0500 Jan Guthrie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Craig 
> Can't "we" put together a Philadelphia contingent of listers and just go
> VISIT summer and pick up your money .???  

LISTERS: PLEASE DO NOT PESTER THE SELLER!!!

This morning, it seems to have been a poor idea to have included her
complete contact information, lest someone out there pester her and cause
trouble. In addition, I had forgotten about the archives. Oops.


> But then would you trust those guys with your money ... You would
> probably get a "Kaleb Car" back instead.

You've got a point there ...   :-)



Craig

Re: [MBZ] eBay Issues -- Update

[Jan Guthrie]

Craig 
Can't "we" put together a Philadelphia contingent of listers and just go VISIT
summer and pick up your money .???But then would you trust those
guys with your money ... You would probably get a "Kaleb Car" back instead.

Jan

Craig McCluskey wrote:

> Well, I went to
> http://pages.ebay.com/help/tp/isgw-buyer-protection-steps.html and started
> following the steps.
>
> I got the seller's contact information
>
>  User ID: summer8777
> Name: summer a eichmann
>  Company:
> City: phila
>State: PA
>  Country: United States
>Phone: (215) 744-3865
> Registered Since: Sunday, Mar 20, 200511:37:13 PST
>
> And from returning the pump:
>
> summer eichmann
> 847 anchor st
> philadelphia pa 19124
>
> So I called today. Summer answered the phone and said her brother Kevin
> had used her name and that I should call back in an hour to talk with him.
> I got tied up at work and wasn't able to call back at the appointed time,
> so I called later and left a message that I would call back.
>
> This evening I called and got a fast busy signal every time (like the
> circuits were busy). I then noticed that I got an email through eBay from
> Summer, which said,
>
> ==
> Question about Item -- Respond Now
> ==
>
> Question from summer8777
> Item: Robinair VacuMaster 5CFM Vacuum Pump #15500 (7521186804)
> This message was sent after the listing closed.
> summer8777 is the seller.
> ---
> hello i sent a money order to you and i see you have not rec it yet. you
> no what i am leave for califorina on tuseday the the 9th and if you dont
> mind ill drop your money of to you befor friday the 12 i am drive and ill
> call you when i am close to your house to let you no thank you and have a
> nice day
>
> ==
>
> English doesn't seem to be her strong suit ...
> "If it walks like a duck, sounds like a duck, and looks like a duck ..."
> I filled out an eBay formal complaint.
>
> Craig

[MBZ] 86 190D 4 sale - beater

[meadedillon]

Marshall et al,

Looked at the car last night - I've decided to pass.  Looked horrible inside 
and out, drove horrible.  The dealer that's selling is willing to negotiate, 
but I don't need another project right now.  Only redeeming point is that it 
has no rust.  AC did nothing - wouldn't even blow air.  Wrong battery in the 
car (had to be jump started), green coolant that was low, wrong tires on the 
car, bad vibrations and clunks from 15 mph up to 55 mph, missing interior and 
exterior parts, clear coat coming off all over, sunroof not functioning and 
missing headliner.  Body was solid, engine did start and did not smoke, 
transmission went into all gears quickly and shifted fine.  One could easily 
sink $5k into the car, and then you'd have a 20 year old car with 250k miles on 
it.  I'll bet it could be had for $500-750, if anyone is looking for a project. 
 Azalea motors 866-830-2277 in Charleston SC.

Thanks for the info on the AC for these cars.  I did enjoy the nimble feel of 
the car, and the power was adequate, and I'll keep looking and maybe find 
another example in better shape.

Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC

Re: [MBZ] Substitute for ATE brake cylinder paste?

[RAH]

I Called Essex Monday and they were out of stock (PBR Rubber Grease) until the 
end of the week. Essex Price was $7.50 +$6 shipping. So I ordered it from 
Pegasus and they sent me a tracking # by the end of the day! 
I'll let you know how it works, as soon as I find out why the seals were 
not in the box of parts ordered from Rusty(worldpack).   Russ

Re: [MBZ] interesting diesel, not a mb, but still cool :)

[TimothyPilgrim]

That's one of the automobile packages that I wonder about why the
automaker would choose to discontinue. I've seen various models from
all companies dropped for something less interesting. I'd love to have
a Corrado in my driveway. I hear that little 4 cylinder gets 180 hp.
No bad at all.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 7/31/05, Harry  M.) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Cool, I used to own one of those. It was a later model 93 with what they 
> called a VR6 engine. Its a V6 with the cylinders set at 15 degrees apart. The 
> base engine was a supercharged 4. Pretty fast and lots of fun to drive. VW 
> dropped it in 94
> 
> 
> 
> Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> >THAT my friends, would be one fun car to drive! Very nice. Me likee, a lot.
> >
> >On 7/29/05, Mike LaRosa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4565168263
> >
> >Casey
> >Biodiesel:
> >'87 300TD intercooler (206k)
> >'84 300D (202k)
> >Gashuffer:
> >'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (184k)
> >Olympia, WA
> >
> >___
> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> >For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> 
> 
> --
> 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
> 72 350SL 108,000 Miles
> 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
> 1999 Mazda Miata 
> 
> 
> __
> Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
> As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register
> 
> Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
> 
> New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer
> Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups.
> Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Stop me please before I do something I will regret

[Ed Booher]

I'll stop you! Provided you are close enough to me for me to buy it
before you cave in. Where are you at again?

On 7/29/05, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On an errand this morning, saw a 450SEL with a for sale, $1200.   Looked
> pretty nice, blue/blue, paint a bit faded, a few dings here and there,
> interior nice.  Called the guy, it's a 77, 120k miles or so, A/C working
> but might need a recharge, tranny takes a few minutes to start shifting
> right but then OK, he's owned it since 81, all service at Enzo Luzo's
> place in that time.  Probably get it for $1k.
> 
> Stop me please.
> 
> --R
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


-- 
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

Re: [MBZ] For some reason, I really like this car

[Ed Booher]

On 7/30/05, JJJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> do you have a favorite shipper...or advice?
> 
> On Friday, July 29, 2005, at 08:37 PM, JJJ wrote:
> 
> > i did...now gotta get it from houston to spokane...
> 
I have a favorite shipper  me. I will gladly pick the car up for
you in Houston and deliver it faithfully to Indiana where I will keep
it in trust for you for the next several years.

-- 
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

Re: [MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[Aaron Lam]

http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php3?s=&daysprune=30&f=14

Try searching the archives too, and specify that particular forum when
you search.

-Aaron
1987 300D (three's a crowd)
1987 300TD (lonely wagon)

[MBZ] Mechanics on the Road

[Brian Chase]

Has anyone ever compiled a list of Klatta-friendly garages on their route 
before embarking on a long road trip? Don't know if there is a good way to 
even do this.


Soon I'll *finally* be bringing my 240D home. The trip will be from Tucson 
to Rochester, Minnesota.


I usually go through NM, TX, then up through, hmm. Well I know the half way 
point is Liberal, KS. And I know I come up I 35 through IA. It's been some 
time since I last made the trip.


Anyway, is there a resource?

Brian
83 240D 121k

_
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

Re: [MBZ] 110 Brake rotor interchange

[redghost]

There were a set on the PnP 240D.  did not really look at them hard.  
if needed  I can check them.  I want the rear axles


On Monday, August 1, 2005, at 07:37 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:


Holy cow, Batman!

Doesn't anyone left on the list know about 110 cars?  As near as I can
tell, the rotors are the same for 110/111 after 63, all 108, and 115 
up to

chassis number 213511, and 114.  They probably fit some pagoda cars
too.  i'd bet 250 and 230 SL

Anyone got some good used ones?

At 07:06 PM 8/1/2005, you wrote:
Can anyone tell me what models the brake rotors will interchange with 
for a

66 110.110.10 200D?

Has anyone got good rotors for a 200D?


___
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___
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA

[MBZ] Crushable cars

[redghost]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88224999.html  --beater SLC

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88223136.html  --Rod-bender

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88142410.html  -- Truck and Duck

No affiliation, you all must need this more than I do


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA

[MBZ] eBay Issues -- Update

[Craig McCluskey]

Well, I went to
http://pages.ebay.com/help/tp/isgw-buyer-protection-steps.html and started
following the steps.

I got the seller's contact information

 User ID: summer8777
Name: summer a eichmann
 Company:  
City: phila
   State: PA
 Country: United States
   Phone: (215) 744-3865
Registered Since: Sunday, Mar 20, 200511:37:13 PST

And from returning the pump:

summer eichmann
847 anchor st 
philadelphia pa 19124


So I called today. Summer answered the phone and said her brother Kevin
had used her name and that I should call back in an hour to talk with him.
I got tied up at work and wasn't able to call back at the appointed time,
so I called later and left a message that I would call back.

This evening I called and got a fast busy signal every time (like the
circuits were busy). I then noticed that I got an email through eBay from
Summer, which said,

==
Question about Item -- Respond Now
==  

Question from summer8777
Item: Robinair VacuMaster 5CFM Vacuum Pump #15500 (7521186804)
This message was sent after the listing closed.
summer8777 is the seller.
---
hello i sent a money order to you and i see you have not rec it yet. you
no what i am leave for califorina on tuseday the the 9th and if you dont
mind ill drop your money of to you befor friday the 12 i am drive and ill
call you when i am close to your house to let you no thank you and have a
nice day

==

English doesn't seem to be her strong suit ...

"If it walks like a duck, sounds like a duck, and looks like a duck ..."

I filled out an eBay formal complaint.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] Looks like a beaver!

[Rich Thomas]

The head dude of the United Arab Emirates, died last November, had 18 
Maybachs in his fleet.  He liked cars.  Used to go blasting around the 
desert in one of those Lamborghini 4x4s (LM400?) and it would drive his 
people crazy as they could not keep up in whatever they were driving.  
His personal aircraft was a 747, had a 777 and a 757 (I think) for the 
staff to follow in when he travelled. 


Fuel economy was not an issue for him.

That is sort of a non sequitur, but interesting facts.

--R

andrew strasfogel wrote:


I think it looks awesome but because it has poor fuel  economy I
decided not to put in my order...


On 8/1/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 


I guess that if the Japanese can build ugly cars and get away with it (even

selling them!), why shouldn't MB also?

On 8/1/05, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
   


That beaver needs to get laid to rest--dayamn, that's ugly!

On 8/1/05, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
 

http://www.autoweek.com/article.cms?articleId=102831 


The bat Maybach

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA


___
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--
Casey
Biodiesel:
'87 300TD intercooler (206k) 
'84 300D (202k)

Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (184k)
Olympia, WA 
___

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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL

'81 240D
'78 450SLC


   



___
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Re: [MBZ] Looks like a beaver!

[Steve MacSween]

Looks like one of those mega-uglee Lexus convertibles, after one too many
facelifts. 

Sort of Joan Rivers in black from 30 feet.

Mac

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I think it looks awesome but because it has poor fuel  economy I
> decided not to put in my order...
> 
> 
> On 8/1/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> I guess that if the Japanese can build ugly cars and get away with it (even
>> 
>> selling them!), why shouldn't MB also?
>> 
>> On 8/1/05, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>> 
>>> That beaver needs to get laid to rest--dayamn, that's ugly!
>>> 
>>> On 8/1/05, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 
 http://www.autoweek.com/article.cms?articleId=102831
 
 The bat Maybach
 
 --
 Clay
 Seattle Bioburner
 
 1972 220D - Gump
 1995 E300D - Cleo
 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
 
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
 For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Casey
>>> Biodiesel:
>>> '87 300TD intercooler (206k)
>>> '84 300D (202k)
>>> Gashuffer:
>>> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (184k)
>>> Olympia, WA 
>>> ___
>>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
>>> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> OK Don, KD5NRO
>> Norman, OK 
>> '87 300SDL
>> '81 240D
>> '78 450SLC
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 110 Brake rotor interchange

[OK Don]

What? They made cars BEFORE the 114/115 

On 8/1/05, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Holy cow, Batman!
> 
> Doesn't anyone left on the list know about 110 cars? As near as I can
> tell, the rotors are the same for 110/111 after 63, all 108, and 115 up to
> chassis number 213511, and 114. They probably fit some pagoda cars
> too. i'd bet 250 and 230 SL
> 
> Anyone got some good used ones?
> 
> At 07:06 PM 8/1/2005, you wrote:
> >Can anyone tell me what models the brake rotors will interchange with for 
> a
> >66 110.110.10 200D?
> >
> >Has anyone got good rotors for a 200D?
> >
> >
> >___
> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> >For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 



-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC

Re: [MBZ] Looks like a beaver!

[andrew strasfogel]

I think it looks awesome but because it has poor fuel  economy I
decided not to put in my order...


On 8/1/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I guess that if the Japanese can build ugly cars and get away with it (even
> 
> selling them!), why shouldn't MB also?
> 
> On 8/1/05, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 
> > That beaver needs to get laid to rest--dayamn, that's ugly!
> > 
> > On 8/1/05, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> > > 
> > > http://www.autoweek.com/article.cms?articleId=102831 
> > > 
> > > The bat Maybach
> > > 
> > > --
> > > Clay
> > > Seattle Bioburner
> > > 
> > > 1972 220D - Gump
> > > 1995 E300D - Cleo
> > > 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> > > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> > > 
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> > > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > Casey
> > Biodiesel:
> > '87 300TD intercooler (206k) 
> > '84 300D (202k)
> > Gashuffer:
> > '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (184k)
> > Olympia, WA 
> > ___
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK 
> '87 300SDL
> '81 240D
> '78 450SLC
> 
>

Re: [MBZ] 110 Brake rotor interchange

[Loren Faeth]

Holy cow, Batman!

Doesn't anyone left on the list know about 110 cars?  As near as I can 
tell, the rotors are the same for 110/111 after 63, all 108, and 115 up to 
chassis number 213511, and 114.  They probably fit some pagoda cars 
too.  i'd bet 250 and 230 SL


Anyone got some good used ones?

At 07:06 PM 8/1/2005, you wrote:

Can anyone tell me what models the brake rotors will interchange with for a
66 110.110.10 200D?

Has anyone got good rotors for a 200D?


___
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For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

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Re: [MBZ] VIbration identified

[Loren Faeth]

Yep, that is it.  Sometimes ok, sometimes terrible.  Sometimes it would 
stop if you stop, and then start out again.  I would pull over and stop on 
the interstate if it got really bad.  Most times that helped.


put the car up on stands and have a helper run it up to speed.  you don't 
need to be under.  just get down outside the car and look under from the 
rear, outside.  It is easy to spot with the car running at speed.



At 09:05 PM 8/1/2005, you wrote:
SO, was your vibration a higher frequency than you'd expect from an 
out-of-ballance tire? Did it occur at different speeds on different days? 
Was it sometimes steady at a given speed (65), and other times like a beat 
frequency - increasing thendecreasing at a steady speed?


If so, it's what my '87 300SDL is doing. If not, any other ideas?
Would anyone get undera car on HD jack stands while it was run up to 70MPH?



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC
___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

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Re: [MBZ] 86 190D 4 sale but AC doesn't work

[Loren Faeth]

Rusty's website shows several models, based on 10 or 12, and VIN.  It says 
to call for a quote.
http://aircoparts.com shows 285 for a reman,Not bad, but it is probably 
worth the money for a new compressor.  Remans are sometimes ok, and 
sometimes short-lived.  With the labor and gas, it is a safer bet to use a 
new compressor.


At 09:00 PM 8/1/2005, you wrote:

Marshall,
As usual this is helpful.  I have been looking at some 201's with AC issues.
How expensive is the Nippondenso compressor unit? I always think a grand. Is
that close?

Dwight Giles
1979 240D auto 244k + miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co.
- Original Message -
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 86 190D 4 sale but AC doesn't work


> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>> Dieselvolk,
>>
>> I'm going to look at a '86 190D, 250,000, which does not have working AC.
>>
>> I'm not scared of compressor issues, leaking hoses, etc., but I really
>> don't want to have to replace an evaporator or do anything under the
>> dash.
>>
>> Any thoughts from the gurus on most likely suspect for AC with doesn't
>> blow cold?  I'm just looking for some ideas on the likely hood of various
>> malodies, such as leaking evaporators to bad solder joints in the PB
>> unit.
>>
>
> 201 evaporators almost NEVER fail. If they do, they are replaced from
> the engine side - pretty easy compared to E and S class cars (pull the
> wiper mechanism and blower assembly and that allows you to change the
> evaporator). A Nippendenso compressor (the shaft seal is probably what
> has failed) IS expensive.
>
> Marshall
> --
>   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
>   Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
> http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
>
>
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


___
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Re: [MBZ] Looks like a beaver!

[OK Don]

I guess that if the Japanese can build ugly cars and get away with it (even 
selling them!), why shouldn't MB also?

On 8/1/05, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> That beaver needs to get laid to rest--dayamn, that's ugly!
> 
> On 8/1/05, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> > 
> > http://www.autoweek.com/article.cms?articleId=102831 
> > 
> > The bat Maybach
> > 
> > --
> > Clay
> > Seattle Bioburner
> > 
> > 1972 220D - Gump
> > 1995 E300D - Cleo
> > 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Casey
> Biodiesel:
> '87 300TD intercooler (206k) 
> '84 300D (202k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (184k)
> Olympia, WA 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC