Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-10 Thread David Brodbeck

R A Bennell wrote:

It is basic ignorance. Most people out there have no idea that your old
diesel can't go any faster. For whatever reason, people behind the wheel
often become irritated way too easy. Traffic is frustrating at times and
people have no patience. They just want you out of their way now.


I had that problem in spades with my diesel Vanagon.  One of those makes 
a 240D look like a top fuel dragster.


I had a bumper sticker on the back hatch that said, 48 horsepower.  
Please, just pass.  It seemed to help.  If people chuckle they forget 
to get angry.




Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?

2006-03-10 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Thanks I'll pass-I already have one auto-looking for a stick for my next
one.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Keefe
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 6:48 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?



It's an automatic.  Make an offer.

From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 17:37:40 -0500

Could it be purchased for scrap price? Is it a stick?

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Keefe
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 5:20 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?


Turned in to scrap, ie, recycled.


 From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?
 Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2006 15:58:12 -0600
 
 huh?
 
 Jim Keefe wrote:
   If there is no interest in this car, it looks like curtains for 
   it.
  
  
  
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90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Look, Ma! No mast!

2006-03-10 Thread David Brodbeck

Luther Gulseth wrote:

That works out really well since most ships sail full Asia to US and empty US 
to Asia..
  


Honda actually started paying farmers around their factories to grow 
soybeans, so they'd have something to send back to Japan in the empty 
shipping containers that parts had arrived in.




Re: [MBZ] OT: 1988 Caprice Classic half track/ice fishing vehicle

2006-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
Yes! Love the Red Green!

Brian

On 3/9/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 R A Bennell wrote:
  Now, you know, you have to admit it is kinda neat - and it went for
 under a
  grand.

 It's extremely clever and also frightening at the same time.

 It looks like something Red Green would come up with.

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Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-10 Thread David Brodbeck

Trampas wrote:
There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes. 
  


With all due respect, a cheap BMW is much more expensive. ;)



Re: [MBZ] Chain Stretch?

2006-03-10 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 09 Mar 2006 15:40:57 -0500 John Ervine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Chuck Landenberger wrote:
  Hi John,
  
  I looked at the thesaurus too, but we are dealing w/metal and IMHO  
  stretch implies some flexibility.
 
 Metal is, by definition, a flexible material - see malleability and
 ductility.  The stretch we measure in the timing chain is due to wear
 and fatigue of the metal.

In fact, the term plastic was coined to describe some of the properties
of steel. It only later became a generic descriptor of polymerized
hydrocarbons.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-10 Thread David Brodbeck

Marshall Booth wrote:
The cost of major repairs on a Mercedes (required infrequently, but if 
needed - they ARE REQUIRED) can be very high...


Part of the problem is Mercedes mechanics are expensive and hard to 
find, and run-of-the-mill shops don't want to touch these cars.  I'm 
beginning to think my next beater that I drive for work will be an 
American car, just for ease of getting work done.  It'd be nice to be 
able to use normal mechanics that are open at times other than when I'm 
supposed to be at work.  It's hard to figure out how to drop a car off 
at a place that's open 8 to 5 only on weekdays without taking time off!




Re: [MBZ] Aggressive Driving

2006-03-10 Thread Richard Barnaby
I like the George Carlin bit on Driving (I'll try from memory)
Have you ever noticed, when you're driving that all the people who are
going SLOWER than you are are Idiots!?
Have you?   You IDIOT!   Get out of the way!   IDIOT!
And, and all the people who drive faster than you are 'Maniacs.  (Does the
head move indicating someone just whoshing by)
MANIAC!
But you wont let someone drive the SAME speed as you will you?  If they do,
you'll speed up, or slow down.
Whats he doing now, that JERK just hanging off my left side.  
Really, if you think about it, it’s a wonder there arent more accidents with
all those IDIOTS, MANIACS and JERKS out there.
(Apologies to George)
-b

-- 
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Re: [MBZ] Chain Stretch?

2006-03-10 Thread Chuck Landenberger

Craig,

I'm constantly amazed about how much you guys on this list know and  
how much I DON'T know.


Hopefully, I can keep my mind open and let the knowledge in...!!

Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
On Mar 9, 2006, at 4:39 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:


On Thu, 09 Mar 2006 15:40:57 -0500 John Ervine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:


Chuck Landenberger wrote:

Hi John,

I looked at the thesaurus too, but we are dealing w/metal and IMHO
stretch implies some flexibility.


Metal is, by definition, a flexible material - see malleability and
ductility.  The stretch we measure in the timing chain is due to wear
and fatigue of the metal.


In fact, the term plastic was coined to describe some of the  
properties

of steel. It only later became a generic descriptor of polymerized
hydrocarbons.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Chain Stretch?

2006-03-10 Thread John Ervine

Chuck Landenberger wrote:

Craig,

I'm constantly amazed about how much you guys on this list know and  
how much I DON'T know.


Hopefully, I can keep my mind open and let the knowledge in...!!


To further harp on it, if metal wasn't flexible and didn't have the properties 
of malleability and ductility, it would essentially be useless to us - last time 
I checked, they aren't making timing chains out of rocks with much success.  ;-)


--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi
1980 300TD 175+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi
1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi



Re: [MBZ] Chain Stretch?

2006-03-10 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

I make them out of rope and duct tape though.

John Ervine wrote:


Chuck Landenberger wrote:


Craig,

I'm constantly amazed about how much you guys on this list know and  
how much I DON'T know.


Hopefully, I can keep my mind open and let the knowledge in...!!



To further harp on it, if metal wasn't flexible and didn't have the properties 
of malleability and ductility, it would essentially be useless to us - last time 
I checked, they aren't making timing chains out of rocks with much success.  ;-)




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



[MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Christopher McCann
$105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the  brake 
torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After  replacing all 
the ball joints and now finally securing the brake  torsion bar, she sounds 
JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A  beautiful thing.
  
  Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new in  box, 
but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel prior  to engine 
start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously goes  BEFORE fuel 
filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't hurt.  Any thoughts?
  
  I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has TONS  of 
them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's if  they're worth 
the trouble.
  
  Thanks all,
  
  
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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Perfect example of Bashing at it's best and never finding a comfortable, 
peaceful state of mind ..Captures the culture part of America 
Maybe in a couple of generations, this will be mostly gone.

Bill
1981 300 TD


Richard Barnaby wrote:
 I like the George Carlin bit on Driving (I'll try from memory)
 Have you ever noticed, when you're driving that all the people who are
 going SLOWER than you are are Idiots!?
 Have you?   You IDIOT!   Get out of the way!   IDIOT!
 And, and all the people who drive faster than you are 'Maniacs.  (Does the
 head move indicating someone just whoshing by)
 MANIAC!
 But you wont let someone drive the SAME speed as you will you?  If they do,
 you'll speed up, or slow down.
 Whats he doing now, that JERK just hanging off my left side.  
 Really, if you think about it, it’s a wonder there arent more accidents with
 all those IDIOTS, MANIACS and JERKS out there.
 (Apologies to George)
 -b

   
 

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Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
Congrats on Wulf.

This fuel heater. Sheesh another thing to think about. I would love to
install a block heater before too long, but a fuel heater I had not given
much thought to. Warm diesel fuel combusts better I'm assuming? Resulting in
easier starts? Isn't it true that gasoline combusts better or more
efficiently if cooler?

Does it run on a timer? Or just when the key is turned? Runs off battery
power I assume, as opposed to AC?

Brian
83 240D

On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 $105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the  brake
 torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After  replacing
 all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake  torsion bar, she
 sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A  beautiful thing.

 Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new
 in  box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel
 prior  to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously
 goes  BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't
 hurt.  Any thoughts?

 I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has
 TONS  of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's
 if  they're worth the trouble.

 Thanks all,




 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
 -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
 -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
 -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
 -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

 -
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[MBZ] how to take apart w124 seats

2006-03-10 Thread Sunil Hari
I'm wanting to install seatcovers on my 300D, but I can't figure out how to
take off the seatback to take off the armrest assembly to get the cover on.
That was how I did it on my W123 300D, but this one, I can't figure it out.
I unscrewed the seat back panel (2 screws), but couldn't pry off the back -
the MB-Tex would just pull along with it.

--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] how to take apart w124 seats

2006-03-10 Thread Peter Frederick
The cover is tucked into the sides, just like the W123 and W115.  I 
think you have to pull the bottom of the back panel outward some, then 
down.  It may have stuck to the covers -- a thin bit of blunt plastic 
slipped along where they meet will help separate them.  Going back in, 
tuck the cover in, the slide the panel back in.


I've not had mine apart (at it won't be hard, someone else did it for 
me a screwed them up), but a friend of mine said his were pretty stuck 
at first.


The plastic panel doesn't flex as easily as the other fiberboard ones 
did.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] how to take apart w124 seats

2006-03-10 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 3/9/06, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'm wanting to install seatcovers on my 300D, but I can't figure out how
 to
 take off the seatback to take off the armrest assembly to get the cover
 on.
 That was how I did it on my W123 300D, but this one, I can't figure it
 out.
 I unscrewed the seat back panel (2 screws), but couldn't pry off the back
 -
 the MB-Tex would just pull along with it.


If it's like an '87, the Tex on the side panels wraps around the back and is
held under tension in a little gutter at the edge of the panel.  To get it
loose you have to put something like a kitchen knife or broad-bladed
screwdriver into the channel at the lower side and pry out the edge.  Push
in on the back panel (towards the front of the car) while prying to relieve
the tension on the side panel.  Once you get it started it will unzip all
the way up easily.  It's easier to do the outer sides first.  (Although I
don't think I've ever had the back panels all the way off now that I think
about it.  I had to get in there to fix the usual broken 124 headrest issue,
but I had plenty of room to work just undoing the outer edge of each back
panel and swinging it out of the way.)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper


Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?

2006-03-10 Thread Mike Canfield

Jim,
 Can you tell me again where it is so i can see how far i have to go?  It 
does run right?  Are you in a huge hurry to get it out of the way?  It would 
be 3 or 4 weeks before I could get time to come pick it up.  This is a navy 
blue 123 chasis right?  Scrap price for cars here is $60 a ton so how's a 
couple hundred bucks sound?  I think I could swing a roadtrip along with 
that.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Keefe [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?



Make an offer.



From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 17:35:03 -0500

I'd pay more than scrap or junk price for it.

Mike
- Original Message -
From: Jim Keefe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 3:55 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?


 If there is no interest in this car, it looks like curtains for it.



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Re: [MBZ] The change when people drive [was: 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads]

2006-03-10 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 9 Mar 2006 17:36:51 -0600 Zoltan Finks
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 And I would think, you know, these people that I just had this nice
 experience with are no different than those red-faced, gesturning,
 furious ones on the road. It's just the act of driving that causes the
 problem.
 
 I have a saying: Driving does terrible things to people. May sound
 dramatic, but I find it to be true.

Walt Disney had a cartoon in the late '50s that made just this point.
Donald Duck was the one who was transformed when he got behind the wheel
of his car.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] The change when people drive [was: 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads]

2006-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
No kidding? I'd like to see that cartoon.

Brian

On 3/9/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 On Thu, 9 Mar 2006 17:36:51 -0600 Zoltan Finks
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  And I would think, you know, these people that I just had this nice
  experience with are no different than those red-faced, gesturning,
  furious ones on the road. It's just the act of driving that causes the
  problem.
 
  I have a saying: Driving does terrible things to people. May sound
  dramatic, but I find it to be true.

 Walt Disney had a cartoon in the late '50s that made just this point.
 Donald Duck was the one who was transformed when he got behind the wheel
 of his car.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
I'd be interested here in NE if you figure out that is easy to install
and worth the ttrouble.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 7:42 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)


$105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the
brake torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After
replacing all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake
torsion bar, she sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A
beautiful thing.
  
  Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new in
box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel prior
to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously goes
BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't hurt.
Any thoughts?
  
  I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has
TONS  of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's
if  they're worth the trouble.
  
  Thanks all,
  
  
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38
deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
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Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail  makes sharing a breeze. 
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Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-10 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 3/9/06, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A couple of general comments on this thread:

 1) Putting on two snow tires - meaning real snows, with the snowflake
 on the mountain symbol (not M+S rated tires, which means NOTHING)...
 is half useless. You need FOUR snow tires. You do expect to steer,
 and/or stop, right? A set of snows usually last for many seasons. A
 couple hundred bucks, spread out over a few years, is way cheaper
 than wrecking your car, or getting stranded somewhere.

 2) Anyone who thinks all season tires work great in snow or ice
 either does not live in real ice or snow country, or has never driven
 a car with four real snow tires (again, an M+S rating does not mean
 snow tire).


I strongly agree and I don't even live in real ice or snow country!  But I
think I need to add one:

3) If you routinely change tires for the winter but don't have a second set
of wheels you're being penny-wise and pound-foolish.  Potomac German Auto
will sell you a set of four beat-up but straight alloys for $150 or so, and
I imagine Kaleb can do better.  Get the snow tires mounted on 'em once and
forget ever again having to plan ahead to switch over---now you can do it
yourself.  Plus you save wear and tear on your nice rims.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper


Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Christopher McCann
from the instructions: heat is supplied only when the temperature is  low 
enough for wax particles to form. Power supply is to from an  automotive type 
12 VDC battery with an alternator system.
  
  So it must have a temp sensor that switches it on and off - neat.
  
  Locate a 12 volt wire (off and on with ignition switch) on a circuit  able 
to handle the extra 7.5 amps that the heater will require.
  
  Suggestions on the back for many makes, but not Mercedes - all but one  
suggests 12 VDC source as Electrical shutoff lead on injection pump.  For 
Toyota a specific terminal in the fusebox.
  
  Hmm...wonder where it should go an a W126 MB?
  
  The point isn't to heat the fuel so it combusts better but to heat the  fuel 
as it starts to get wax crystals at cloud point. It rarely gets  that cold 
here, and when it does, a spritz of GE-Betz OTR8932Q is the  cheapest and best 
way to handle it. This will do nothing to help you  start your car. If you 
don't treat your fuel and the lines and the tank  gel up, this will not help. 
If the fuel clouds, but does not gel, it  won't help starting much either, but 
WILL keep it running once started  (wax won't clog filter, it will be melted by 
this thing).
  
  Hmm - Nifty device, but I would MUCH prefer it warm the fuel not at the  
cloud point of diesel BUT AT THE FREEZING POINT OF WATER...becuase  emulsified 
water particles will freeze and clog your filter too. I'm  MUCH more worried 
about that.
  
  Hmm - It could be rigged up to do that automatically...or you could  bypass 
the timer entirely and put a switch on the dash and turn it on  when it's below 
freezing or somehow change it to come on at 32, BUT  THEN, it will be supplying 
heat as if it were at the cloud point (much  colder) which will be WAY too much 
heat...maybe even enough to start a  fire.
  
  BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or  
north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE  OTHER 
GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you  don't need 
in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block  heater. That's for 
North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota,  IMHRUO (IR=relatively  
U=uninformed).
  
  Chris

Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Congrats on Wulf.

This fuel heater. Sheesh another thing to think about. I would love to
install a block heater before too long, but a fuel heater I had not given
much thought to. Warm diesel fuel combusts better I'm assuming? Resulting in
easier starts? Isn't it true that gasoline combusts better or more
efficiently if cooler?

Does it run on a timer? Or just when the key is turned? Runs off battery
power I assume, as opposed to AC?

Brian
83 240D

On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann  wrote:

 $105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the  brake
 torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After  replacing
 all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake  torsion bar, she
 sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A  beautiful thing.

 Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new
 in  box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel
 prior  to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously
 goes  BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't
 hurt.  Any thoughts?

 I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has
 TONS  of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's
 if  they're worth the trouble.

 Thanks all,




 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
 -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
 -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
 -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
 -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

 -
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger


Re: [MBZ] Cheap paint booth

2006-03-10 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 3/7/06, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/139979639.html

 since we are cheap, why not supply our own?
 --



I think to most of the people on this list the term paint booth refers to
the driveway on a fairly calm day.  That's certainly what it means to me.
And if I'm feeling especially proud of my craft I might shake the rattlecan
for an extra second or two before getting started.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper


Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If it's like most stanadyne heaters it should come on in the mid 30's ( 
where untreated junk diesel starts to cloud ) The factory stanadyne 
heater on my truck comes on at about 37 deg. The thing is self 
regulating, has some little circuit in it and is built into the filter 
head..


I'd be interested in one or two of those things if cheap enough.

---Robert

Christopher McCann wrote:

from the instructions: heat is supplied only when the temperature is  low enough 
for wax particles to form. Power supply is to from an  automotive type 12 VDC battery 
with an alternator system.
  
  So it must have a temp sensor that switches it on and off - neat.
  
  Locate a 12 volt wire (off and on with ignition switch) on a circuit  able to handle the extra 7.5 amps that the heater will require.
  
  Suggestions on the back for many makes, but not Mercedes - all but one  suggests 12 VDC source as Electrical shutoff lead on injection pump.  For Toyota a specific terminal in the fusebox.
  
  Hmm...wonder where it should go an a W126 MB?
  
  The point isn't to heat the fuel so it combusts better but to heat the  fuel as it starts to get wax crystals at cloud point. It rarely gets  that cold here, and when it does, a spritz of GE-Betz OTR8932Q is the  cheapest and best way to handle it. This will do nothing to help you  start your car. If you don't treat your fuel and the lines and the tank  gel up, this will not help. If the fuel clouds, but does not gel, it  won't help starting much either, but WILL keep it running once started  (wax won't clog filter, it will be melted by this thing).
  
  Hmm - Nifty device, but I would MUCH prefer it warm the fuel not at the  cloud point of diesel BUT AT THE FREEZING POINT OF WATER...becuase  emulsified water particles will freeze and clog your filter too. I'm  MUCH more worried about that.
  
  Hmm - It could be rigged up to do that automatically...or you could  bypass the timer entirely and put a switch on the dash and turn it on  when it's below freezing or somehow change it to come on at 32, BUT  THEN, it will be supplying heat as if it were at the cloud point (much  colder) which will be WAY too much heat...maybe even enough to start a  fire.
  
  BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or  north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE  OTHER GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you  don't need in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block  heater. That's for North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota,  IMHRUO (IR=relatively  U=uninformed).
  
  Chris


Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Congrats on Wulf.

This fuel heater. Sheesh another thing to think about. I would love to
install a block heater before too long, but a fuel heater I had not given
much thought to. Warm diesel fuel combusts better I'm assuming? Resulting in
easier starts? Isn't it true that gasoline combusts better or more
efficiently if cooler?

Does it run on a timer? Or just when the key is turned? Runs off battery
power I assume, as opposed to AC?

Brian
83 240D

On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann  wrote:
  

$105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the  brake
torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After  replacing
all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake  torsion bar, she
sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A  beautiful thing.

Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new
in  box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel
prior  to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously
goes  BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't
hurt.  Any thoughts?

I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has
TONS  of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's
if  they're worth the trouble.

Thanks all,




Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
Yahoo! Mail
Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail  makes sharing a breeze.
___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Christopher McCann, Squier 

Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Christopher McCann
if it comes on at 37, that would be great. I'll have to fiddle with it  when I 
get back from vacation. You are on the list - don't know what  they should go 
for. If he wants to get rid of them, should we offer $10  each? Comes with 
EVERYTHING you need (electrical and hose connectors,  wires, etc)
  
  What do you think? May low ball at $5 each?
  
  Chris

Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  If it's like most stanadyne 
heaters it should come on in the mid 30's ( 
where untreated junk diesel starts to cloud ) The factory stanadyne 
heater on my truck comes on at about 37 deg. The thing is self 
regulating, has some little circuit in it and is built into the filter 
head..

I'd be interested in one or two of those things if cheap enough.

---Robert

Christopher McCann wrote:
  from the instructions: heat is supplied only when the temperature is  low 
 enough for wax particles to form. Power supply is to from an  automotive type 
 12 VDC battery with an alternator system.
   
   So it must have a temp sensor that switches it on and off - neat.
   
  Locate a 12 volt wire (off and on with ignition switch) on a circuit  able 
 to handle the extra 7.5 amps that the heater will require.
   
  Suggestions on the back for many makes, but not Mercedes - all but one  
 suggests 12 VDC source as Electrical shutoff lead on injection pump.  For 
 Toyota a specific terminal in the fusebox.
   
   Hmm...wonder where it should go an a W126 MB?
   
  The point isn't to heat the fuel so it combusts better but to heat the  fuel 
 as it starts to get wax crystals at cloud point. It rarely gets  that cold 
 here, and when it does, a spritz of GE-Betz OTR8932Q is the  cheapest and 
 best way to handle it. This will do nothing to help you  start your car. If 
 you don't treat your fuel and the lines and the tank  gel up, this will not 
 help. If the fuel clouds, but does not gel, it  won't help starting much 
 either, but WILL keep it running once started  (wax won't clog filter, it 
 will be melted by this thing).
   
  Hmm - Nifty device, but I would MUCH prefer it warm the fuel not at the  
 cloud point of diesel BUT AT THE FREEZING POINT OF WATER...becuase  
 emulsified water particles will freeze and clog your filter too. I'm  MUCH 
 more worried about that.
   
 Hmm - It could be  rigged up to do that automatically...or you could bypass 
 the timer  entirely and put a switch on the dash and turn it on when it's 
 below  freezing or somehow change it to come on at 32, BUT THEN, it will be  
 supplying heat as if it were at the cloud point (much colder) which  will be 
 WAY too much heat...maybe even enough to start a fire.
   
  BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or  
 north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE  
 OTHER GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you  don't 
 need in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block  heater. 
 That's for North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota,  IMHRUO (IR=relatively 
  U=uninformed).
   
   Chris

 Zoltan Finks  wrote:  Congrats on Wulf.

 This fuel heater. Sheesh another thing to think about. I would love to
 install a block heater before too long, but a fuel heater I had not given
 much thought to. Warm diesel fuel combusts better I'm assuming? Resulting in
 easier starts? Isn't it true that gasoline combusts better or more
 efficiently if cooler?

 Does it run on a timer? Or just when the key is turned? Runs off battery
 power I assume, as opposed to AC?

 Brian
 83 240D

 On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann  wrote:
   
 $105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the  brake
 torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After  replacing
 all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake  torsion bar, she
 sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A  beautiful thing.

 Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new
 in  box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel
 prior  to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously
 goes  BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't
 hurt.  Any thoughts?

 I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has
 TONS  of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's
 if  they're worth the trouble.

 Thanks all,




 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
 -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
 -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
 -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
 -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

 -
 Yahoo! Mail
 Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail  makes sharing a breeze.
 ___
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor: 

Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-03-10 Thread Jim Cathey

I had a busy day!  From the log:

B.  Arctic weather again!  Had to use the heat gun to thaw the
door enough to open.  Before I got too cold I managed to fabricate the
missing link for the throttle junk, so now the cruise can be hooked up
again.  (I'm sure the amplifier is broken, but it'll get its turn.)  I
also got the chewed-up idle cable threaded back through its adjuster,
but still need to come up with an attachment to the linkage.

Jacked up the corner and put in the missing brake pad wear sensor,
courtesy of the U-Pull.

I got out the MityVac and checked the various (five) vacuum systems
for leakage.  It appears that the only real leak is the door lock
system (which was expected), so that's good.  There might be a slow
leak in the vacuum tank, it's hard to tell.  My fingers got frozen so
I came in for breakfast and to put my feet up by the fire.  I knew I
had to open up the driver's door anyway, so I'll start chasing the
vacuum system there next.

I then replaced the door check strap and the broken door release
handle.  Then I made up a new moisture barrier, and started chasing
the vacuum lock system.  The left side of the car is OK.  I'm working
through the tees that are under the floor mats, and I'm labeling the
vacuum lines as I figure out what they are.  I have a sneaking
suspicion that the trunk-located stuff is at fault, and the auxiliary
fuel tank is definitely in the way.  Must it be removed to get at
the vacuum tank and the fuel filler lock?

Both right-side door lock actuators leak, as does the trunk.  I pulled
the trunk actuator and found that what is leaking is the little collar
around the shaft, the body is sealed from the elements and the main
diaphragm is thus well-protected from mechanical damage and oxidation.
It does not leak.  I'm trying an experiment where I use weatherstrip
cement (the good stuff: 3M) to seal the small cracks in the collar.

...The sealing seems to have worked, the pod now holds vacuum.  I next
moved on to the fuel door lock and removed it (painful!), it looked OK
but leaked somehow, so I disassembled it and sealed its diaphragm too.
It was rather difficult to get back in.  The thing leaked down several
times, but I kept pulling it out and looking at it, it looked fine and
didn't leak on the MityVac, yet when in place it leaked.  The lines,
right?  Wrong, I capped those and _they_ didn't leak then, yet
the entire assembly did.  I think the tees are getting stiff, I
finally got it together once and it did not leak.

The front passenger door lock also leaked, so I opened up the door and
removed the element.  It looked really grungy, so I supposed its
diaphragms were torn.  I disassembled the element and tubbed it,
scrubbing with a bristle brush.  Everything cleaned up nicely, so
nicely that I couldn't see anything wrong with any of the four
diaphragms.  The rubber was still pretty 'live'.  A mystery, I put it
back together (all clean and warm) and it sealed.  Same problem with
the lines leaking, though, when it was in place.  I tugged on the
lines through the door hinge trying to make it worse, theorizing that
there was a crack there, but then it stopped leaking altogether and I
was unable to get it to leak thereafter.  It's a bit of a mystery, but
I think that the rubber is actually in pretty good shape (except for
the one smoking gun in the trunk) and was just stiff and dirty from
disuse so that it didn't quite seal in lots of places.

I put the system back together and it worked great!  Even the vacuum
reservoir seems to be holding.  Whether this system will hold vacuum
for more than a few hours, though, remains to be seen.

I made up a new moisture barrier for the passenger door and
reassembled it.  I still have to do the driver's door and put back the
floor channels.

I then went under the hood and cleaned up the vacuum piping, then put
it in its final configuration.  The MityVac shows no leaking of any of
the vacuum consumers, except the key (brown) line when the key is off.
(No leaks when it is on.)  I started the car and all the vacuum stuff
seemed to be working, and the car even shut off immediately with the
key.  Success!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] how to take apart w124 seats

2006-03-10 Thread Jim Cathey
I'm wanting to install seatcovers on my 300D, but I can't figure out 
how to
take off the seatback to take off the armrest assembly to get the 
cover on.
That was how I did it on my W123 300D, but this one, I can't figure it 
out.
I unscrewed the seat back panel (2 screws), but couldn't pry off the 
back -

the MB-Tex would just pull along with it.


On some cars the armrest comes off from the outside.
Could this be one?

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?

2006-03-10 Thread Jim Keefe
I'm going to go start the car this weekend, while it's warm.  Since there 
has been so little interest,Ii think I'll use it while the weather is warm 
since it's still registered and insured, then just junk it when/if it quits. 
 It still gets about 30 mpg.  I have a Jeep which gets terrible mileage, 
and I'm going to buy another car, so at some point, probably this summer, 
I'll get rid of the MB.

 BTW, it's in Warren, MA.


From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 20:29:36 -0500

Jim,
  Can you tell me again where it is so i can see how far i have to go?  It
does run right?  Are you in a huge hurry to get it out of the way?  It 
would

be 3 or 4 weeks before I could get time to come pick it up.  This is a navy
blue 123 chasis right?  Scrap price for cars here is $60 a ton so how's a
couple hundred bucks sound?  I think I could swing a roadtrip along with
that.

Mike
- Original Message -
From: Jim Keefe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?


 Make an offer.


From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 17:35:03 -0500

I'd pay more than scrap or junk price for it.

Mike
- Original Message -
From: Jim Keefe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 3:55 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?


  If there is no interest in this car, it looks like curtains for it.
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread OK Don
Put me on the tentative list - thinking heating WVO?

On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 if it comes on at 37, that would be great. I'll have to fiddle with it  when 
 I get back from vacation. You are on the list - don't know what  they 
 should go for. If he wants to get rid of them, should we offer $10  each? 
 Comes with EVERYTHING you need (electrical and hose connectors,  wires, etc)

   What do you think? May low ball at $5 each?

   Chris

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Marshall Booth

Christopher McCann wrote:

$105some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the  brake 
torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After  replacing all 
the ball joints and now finally securing the brake  torsion bar, she sounds 
JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A  beautiful thing.
  
  Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new in  box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel prior  to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously goes  BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't hurt.  Any thoughts?
  
  I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has TONS  of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's if  they're worth the trouble.
  
  Thanks all,


At temps above zero, I've had NO trouble in cars without fuel heaters 
when using winterized fuel. The OM60x engines in my cars have fuel 
heaters and I believe they make a difference in REALLY cold weather 
(I've driven at temps down to 30 below F). There is NO advantage to 
heating fuel as long as it's warm enough to flow properly. When temps 
get much below zero, fuel flow becomes a problem with some fuel system 
designs (early VW diesels). With older Mercedes (pre OM61x engines), 
I've not had problems until temps got into the 20 below zero range (but 
starting at below zero was a real challenge with those engines).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?

2006-03-10 Thread Mike Canfield
I take it you are turning down my offer??  I would love to offer you more 
but I just can't swing it right now.
 I still kick myself in the ass for selling 82 to Mac for $100!!!  I would 
love to have it back for the summerI have a bunch of WVO to use up.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Keefe [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?



I'm going to go start the car this weekend, while it's warm.  Since there
has been so little interest,Ii think I'll use it while the weather is warm
since it's still registered and insured, then just junk it when/if it 
quits.

 It still gets about 30 mpg.  I have a Jeep which gets terrible mileage,
and I'm going to buy another car, so at some point, probably this summer,
I'll get rid of the MB.
 BTW, it's in Warren, MA.


From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 20:29:36 -0500

Jim,
  Can you tell me again where it is so i can see how far i have to go? 
It

does run right?  Are you in a huge hurry to get it out of the way?  It
would
be 3 or 4 weeks before I could get time to come pick it up.  This is a 
navy

blue 123 chasis right?  Scrap price for cars here is $60 a ton so how's a
couple hundred bucks sound?  I think I could swing a roadtrip along with
that.

Mike
- Original Message -
From: Jim Keefe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?


 Make an offer.


From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?
Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 17:35:03 -0500

I'd pay more than scrap or junk price for it.

Mike
- Original Message -
From: Jim Keefe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 3:55 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 1981 240D $1000 to the knackers?


  If there is no interest in this car, it looks like curtains for it.
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] the others

2006-03-10 Thread RELNGSON
I like the George Carlin bit on Driving (I'll try from memory)
Have you ever noticed, when you're driving that all the people who are
going SLOWER than you are are Idiots!?

Striking a little closer to home, I have read countless posts on this and 
other MB lists, when discussing snow driving, that all of the other drivers 
are 
clueless on the subject, whereas the poster is a paragon of skill, knowledge 
and judgement.

I could confess a few dopey things I've done in snow, starting with when I 
was a teenager.

RLE


Re: [MBZ] the others

2006-03-10 Thread OK Don
To make sure that my teenagers didn't become the others, I took them
out to empty parking lots when we had snow and/or ice for slippery
driving practice. All except my 18 yr. old son - we haven't had enough
to drive on the last three years!
With the drought though, it should be slippery enough next time it rains!

On 3/9/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I like the George Carlin bit on Driving (I'll try from memory)
 Have you ever noticed, when you're driving that all the people who are
 going SLOWER than you are are Idiots!?

 Striking a little closer to home, I have read countless posts on this and
 other MB lists, when discussing snow driving, that all of the other drivers 
 are
 clueless on the subject, whereas the poster is a paragon of skill, knowledge
 and judgement.

 I could confess a few dopey things I've done in snow, starting with when I
 was a teenager.

 RLE
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
I'm in that last one (MN). Have not had the 240D home here until just three
weeks ago. I am expecting to not be able to use the thing when it gets very
cold (until I get a block heater). The indy that installed my new (used)
engine said that he removed, anti-siezed, and replaced the plug that accepts
the factory heater.

Thing that gets me is that the heater will benefit me at home, but if I take
a trip somewhere, even to work let's say, and there is no plug in (which
there won't be in most cases) I've got no heater and thus no start most
likely.

We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But
there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must.

Thanks
Brian
83 240D

Chris wrote:

BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or
 north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE
 OTHER GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you  don't
need in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block  heater.
That's for North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota,


Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread OK Don
In a few words - Mobil 1 oil, new glow plugs, new battery, and adjust
the valves - you should not have much trouble starting it in MN
without the block heater. (My 240D was purchased new in MN by my
Grandfather).



 We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But
 there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must.

 Thanks
 Brian
 83 240D

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] the others

2006-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
You're right. Ask anyone. They will tell you they are a good, or a great
driver. People take pride in their driving skills.

I'm wasnt' talking about honest mistakes, I was talking about purposeful
behavior, or brainless habits.

I just ran across this little sheet of info that came with my auto
registration. I wonder if it's true. Seems to be designed to support the
magic 55 mph limit. If it's true, it is very interesting.

Time saved per trip at different speeds:

For a five mile trip: 45 vs. 55 - you save 1 min. 13 sec.
For a ten mile trip: 45 vs. 55  -you save 2 min. 25 sec.
For a twenty mile trip: 45 vs. 55 - you save 4 min. 50 sec.

For a five mile trip: 55 vs. 60 - you save 27 sec.
For a ten mile trip: 55 vs. 60 - you save 55 sec.
For a twenty mile trip: 55 vs. 60 - you save 1 min. 49 sec.

For a five mile trip: 60 vs. 65 - you save 23 sec.
For a ten mile trip: 60 vs. 65 - you save 46 sec.
For a twenty mile trip: 60 vs. 65 - you save 1 min. 32 sec.

Brian
83 240D

R wrote:

I have read countless posts on this and
other MB lists, when discussing snow driving, that all of the other
drivers are
clueless on the subject, whereas the poster is a paragon of skill, knowledge
and judgement.

I could confess a few dopey things I've done in snow, starting with when I
was a teenager.


[MBZ] worth at least 17k

2006-03-10 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-red-black-1970-Mercedes-Benz-300SEL-6-3-W109-M100-SUNROOF_W0QQitemZ4620329136QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



Re: [MBZ] wow

2006-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
Man, I want that.

Brian

On 3/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-Used-Mercedes-Benz-300d-1975_W0QQitemZ4620572811QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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Re: [MBZ] Apple original Airport card

2006-03-10 Thread redghost
Look at USB ethernet or wireless to regain your networking.  I have 
tried a few and they do a fine job on a non powered hub.  IIRC, there 
are wireless adapters at Fry's too.


On Thursday, March 9, 2006, at 07:00 AM, John Berryman wrote:



Does anyone have an original Apple Airport card they are interested
in selling or swapping for MB parts or whatever else? I see Airport
Extreme cards all over but I can't use the Extreme card for my 
purposes.

 My house was hit by lightning in August and damaged a lot of stuff.
Among the items damaged is an Apple DVSE 500MgHz iMac.
The iMac lost the ability to network via ethernet and 1 of 2
FireWire ports. I also lost my hard wired router and replaced it with
a Belkin wireless + 4 port router, as at the time that's the only one
I could find. I never considered using it in wireless mode until now.
I was either going to repair the old machine or give it to my buddy
in Tn to replace an earlier tray-loading iMac that I gave him. He can
only get to the internet via phone line.
 I would really love to keep this machine active on my home network
as it is zipped up a bit and give him the DV 400 that I intended to
give him.
I can repair it with a replacement logic board with IO board
attached as a second choice but it would be much easier to just go
wireless.
If anyone has any alternatives and/or the items I'm looking for,
please let me know.

Thanks, 
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread OK Don
New glow plugs are not hotter - they're just not burned out, crusted
with insulating soot, etc. The newer parallel version is much more
efficient (and perhaps hotter?) - there are conversion kits (IIRC)
available - call Rusty.

On 3/9/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 That's good to hear! There were actually klattas sold in this climate.

 We have adjusted valves, a new battery. I do know that there is a set of
 glows available that are somehow higher power for cold conditions? I had
 this and a bunch of other info. from the list stored away in another email
 account, but that account went away unexpectedly. The outfit that the acct.
 was with shall remain unnamed, but it contains the letters used in must
 switch now.

 Brian
 83 240D

 On 3/9/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  In a few words - Mobil 1 oil, new glow plugs, new battery, and adjust
  the valves - you should not have much trouble starting it in MN
  without the block heater. (My 240D was purchased new in MN by my
  Grandfather).
 
 
  
   We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway.
  But
   there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must.
  
   Thanks
   Brian
   83 240D
 
  --
  OK Don, KD5NRO
  Norman, OK
  '90 300D 243K, Rattled
  '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
  '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
  '78 450SLC 67K, brown car
  '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
 
  ___
  http://www.striplin.net
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] wow

2006-03-10 Thread OK Don
How did that car drive 163k miles, and stay that clean under the hood???


  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-Used-Mercedes-Benz-300d-1975_W0QQitemZ4620572811QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] 220D radiator in W115 240D

2006-03-10 Thread redghost
GO FOR IT!  Not sure there was a giant difference at all in the 115 
bodies related to radiator.  The alternators set up... well the whole 
engine is not the same.  Radiator should be swappable.  If not, I will 
find one at the PnP



On Thursday, March 9, 2006, at 01:35 PM, kevin kraly wrote:

I have the chance to get a 240D for nuttin!  It's been crashed in the 
front
resulting in a punctured radiator.  Will my 220D rad fit into it?  
Also, are
the rads any different between auto and manny tranny models?  All that 
this
240 needs to be a runner is a functioning rad.  The car is about 80 
miles

from me.

Kevin in HIllsboro Oregon
1973 220D parting out


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




[MBZ] O ring on oil filter housing

2006-03-10 Thread Constantine N. Polites
On the 350 sdl, the oil filter housing has a large o ring.  This is 
changed with every oil change.
The new cross section (diameter) is 4 mm.  This changes after 2,000 
miles and becomes 3.5mm
Problem:  the last few o rings leak.  The nuts are torqued to 23nm 
each.  No change in the quality
of oil from before the leak to after the leaks  began. The housing has 
not been damaged or bent.

Anyone with this problem? Any known solutions?

Constantine



Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 9, 2006, at 9:52 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:

I've not had problems until temps got into the 20 below zero range  
(but

starting at below zero was a real challenge with those engines).

Marshall



I could only imagine.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] wow

2006-03-10 Thread Mike Canfield
Cuz I would almost bet it's only 62K and they are just assuming the 100K due 
to the age.  Looks like a sweet car.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] wow



How did that car drive 163k miles, and stay that clean under the hood???



 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-Used-Mercedes-Benz-300d-1975_W0QQitemZ4620572811QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] the others

2006-03-10 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 9, 2006, at 10:04 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I could confess a few dopey things I've done in snow, starting with  
when I

was a teenager.

RLE



	Same here, the first was in a trio of young teens 13-14 years old,  
taking my buddy's sleeping father's Comet to Mitchell Field to do  
some donut practice. The car was OK but the cops made me drive it  
back and woke the father up. Then they took the other 2 of us to our  
respective parents.
	I wrapped a 4-door Lincoln Continental around a tree showing my  
friend how cool it was to fishtail at high speeds. That was at 16  
years. I gradually became more adept but there have been several I'm  
sure glad no one was coming from the other ways between then and now.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 9, 2006, at 10:22 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

Thing that gets me is that the heater will benefit me at home, but  
if I take
a trip somewhere, even to work let's say, and there is no plug in  
(which
there won't be in most cases) I've got no heater and thus no start  
most

likely.

We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it  
anyway. But

there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must.

Thanks
Brian



Brian,
	Use synthetic oil, have a good battery, glow-plugs and starter, make  
sure valves are adjusted a little loose and make sure your fuel is  
winterized. Your car should reliably start down to 0F and even below.
	 A few glow cycles is also a must when it gets down there. It is  
also wise to crank, non-stop with the pedal floored until the engine  
is firing on enough cylinders to keep itself running. This can take  
quite a bit of cranking but it is necessary and the starter can  
handle it.
	If you carry a 50' and/or 100' extension cord you'd be surprised  
where you can plug in if needed.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Cheap paint booth

2006-03-10 Thread redghost
I am in a micro-climate that is plagued by subtle gusts of wind at the 
most inopportune moments.  I have ended up rattle can painting the 
garden and curb more than the item intending to be painted.  I am sure 
the booth would have allowed me to reduce by at least a can or two the 
refinish of bundts and the MBTex.  Will really need it when Gump gets 
her new coat.


On Thursday, March 9, 2006, at 05:51 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:


On 3/7/06, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/139979639.html

since we are cheap, why not supply our own?
--




I think to most of the people on this list the term paint booth 
refers to
the driveway on a fairly calm day.  That's certainly what it means to 
me.
And if I'm feeling especially proud of my craft I might shake the 
rattlecan

for an extra second or two before getting started.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
Yup. I was actually talking about a type of glow plug that is a bit
different in that it glows either hotter or longer or something that
benefits one in the cold. I know someone will jump in here with what I'm
talking about. And someone will probably jump down my throat.

Brian
83 240D

On 3/9/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 New glow plugs are not hotter - they're just not burned out, crusted
 with insulating soot, etc. The newer parallel version is much more
 efficient (and perhaps hotter?) - there are conversion kits (IIRC)
 available - call Rusty.

 On 3/9/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  That's good to hear! There were actually klattas sold in this climate.
 
  We have adjusted valves, a new battery. I do know that there is a set of
  glows available that are somehow higher power for cold conditions? I had
  this and a bunch of other info. from the list stored away in another
 email
  account, but that account went away unexpectedly. The outfit that the
 acct.
  was with shall remain unnamed, but it contains the letters used in must
  switch now.
 
  Brian
  83 240D
 
  On 3/9/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   In a few words - Mobil 1 oil, new glow plugs, new battery, and adjust
   the valves - you should not have much trouble starting it in MN
   without the block heater. (My 240D was purchased new in MN by my
   Grandfather).
  
  
   
We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it
 anyway.
   But
there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must.
   
Thanks
Brian
83 240D
  
   --
   OK Don, KD5NRO
   Norman, OK
   '90 300D 243K, Rattled
   '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
   '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
   '78 450SLC 67K, brown car
   '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
  
   ___
   http://www.striplin.net
   For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
   For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
   http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
  
  ___
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  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 '90 300D 243K, Rattled
 '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
 '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
 '78 450SLC 67K, brown car
 '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

 ___
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] wow

2006-03-10 Thread redghost

Wonder how close to $10k it gets.  My vote is for too close.

On Thursday, March 9, 2006, at 08:08 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:


Man, I want that.

Brian

On 3/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:





--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
Ah! thanks. Yeah, I read in the owner's manual a couple interesting things
on cold weather starting: They said not to interrupt the starting procedure,
otherwise you may not get it started, or words to that effect. And they said
to pump it three times before cranking, and I forget whether they said to
hold it to the floor or not, and yes, to keep the starter running 'til it
the engine is running smoothly. Interestingly, the indy that did my engine
swap said, when I asked him the best way to start in the coldest conditions,
not to touch the pedal at all, period. But then again, cold to him is 30's.
At any rate, I will certainly take your word and try your suggested method!

I discovered a few things in getting the old ill-fated engine to start, one
of which was to keep that starter engaged 'til the thing was running
adequately. This was counter to what I was used to.

ALSO: Seasoned dieseler, don't jump on me, but I want to ask what the effect
of feathering the pedal during starting and while the thing is trying to get
going. I don't have an understanding of the workings of the system like I do
the workings of a carbureted gas engine, which actually squirts fuel with
each pump via the accelerator pump.

And thanks for the tip on the long extension cord. Will do.

Brian
83 240D

On 3/9/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 On Mar 9, 2006, at 10:22 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

  Thing that gets me is that the heater will benefit me at home, but
  if I take
  a trip somewhere, even to work let's say, and there is no plug in
  (which
  there won't be in most cases) I've got no heater and thus no start
  most
  likely.
 
  We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it
  anyway. But
  there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must.
 
  Thanks
  Brian


 Brian,
Use synthetic oil, have a good battery, glow-plugs and starter,
 make
 sure valves are adjusted a little loose and make sure your fuel is
 winterized. Your car should reliably start down to 0F and even below.
 A few glow cycles is also a must when it gets down there. It is
 also wise to crank, non-stop with the pedal floored until the engine
 is firing on enough cylinders to keep itself running. This can take
 quite a bit of cranking but it is necessary and the starter can
 handle it.
If you carry a 50' and/or 100' extension cord you'd be surprised
 where you can plug in if needed.

 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 9, 2006, at 11:02 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:


That's good to hear! There were actually klattas sold in this climate.

We have adjusted valves, a new battery. I do know that there is a  
set of

glows available that are somehow higher power for cold conditions?



Brian,
	 Where do you live and what is the lowest temperature in Winter? I  
live in a real cold area where it commonly gets below 0 and I have  
seen -36F. You will be OK with getting started and such, follow the  
advice you get here from those of us who do it all Winter every Winter .
	My 190D Euro has no block heater yet and started at  -18F, just  
recently. I normally don't plug any of them in unless it looks like  
it will be below zero. My wife gets them going every time too, I gave  
her the low-down when I gave her first MB diesel to her.



Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
John,

I live in SE Minnesota. Yes, it's southern MN, but it is cold, especially
when wind chill is factored in (it is a windy region and the wind chill
factors usually result in the same feel as up north MN, which doesn't get as
much wind - this according to the weather reports on TV). We are very
familiar with sub-zero. Each winter we can look forward to quite a few days
below zero and some teens and twenties below (wind not factored in), and of
course, if you want to talk abnormalities, we can match anyone but Alaska. I
remember some 70 below wind chills. Big adjustment for an AZ boy. I've been
here some 6 or 7 winters.

Brian
83 240D

On 3/9/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 On Mar 9, 2006, at 11:02 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

  That's good to hear! There were actually klattas sold in this climate.
 
  We have adjusted valves, a new battery. I do know that there is a
  set of
  glows available that are somehow higher power for cold conditions?


 Brian,
 Where do you live and what is the lowest temperature in Winter? I
 live in a real cold area where it commonly gets below 0 and I have
 seen -36F. You will be OK with getting started and such, follow the
 advice you get here from those of us who do it all Winter every Winter .
My 190D Euro has no block heater yet and started at  -18F, just
 recently. I normally don't plug any of them in unless it looks like
 it will be below zero. My wife gets them going every time too, I gave
 her the low-down when I gave her first MB diesel to her.


 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] Apple original Airport card

2006-03-10 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 9, 2006, at 11:12 PM, redghost wrote:


Look at USB ethernet


Are there FireWire adapters too?


or wireless to regain your networking.


This is what I would prefer to do


  I have
tried a few and they do a fine job on a non powered hub.  IIRC, there
are wireless adapters at Fry's too.


	I'll see if I can find their website. I have not seen a third party  
card that replaces Apple's Airport card. The machine we're discussing  
has no expansion slots, just an internal adapter and antenna for the  
Airport card. It is an iMac built in 2001.




Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 9, 2006, at 11:21 PM, OK Don wrote:


New glow plugs are not hotter - they're just not burned out, crusted
with insulating soot, etc. The newer parallel version is much more
efficient (and perhaps hotter?) - there are conversion kits (IIRC)
available - call Rusty.



	There is an afterglow kit, Brian's car had parallel GPs from the  
factory.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] O ring on oil filter housing

2006-03-10 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 9, 2006, at 11:36 PM, Constantine N. Polites wrote:


On the 350 sdl, the oil filter housing has a large o ring.  This is
changed with every oil change.
The new cross section (diameter) is 4 mm.  This changes after 2,000
miles and becomes 3.5mm
Problem:  the last few o rings leak.  The nuts are torqued to 23nm
each.  No change in the quality
of oil from before the leak to after the leaks  began. The housing has
not been damaged or bent.
Anyone with this problem? Any known solutions?

Constantine



	I never had one leak. I coat the new o-ring with grease before  
installation and clean around the studs.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 10, 2006, at 12:43 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:


John,

I live in SE Minnesota. Yes, it's southern MN, but it is cold,  
especially
when wind chill is factored in (it is a windy region and the wind  
chill
factors usually result in the same feel as up north MN, which  
doesn't get as

much wind - this according to the weather reports on TV). We are very
familiar with sub-zero. Each winter we can look forward to quite a  
few days
below zero and some teens and twenties below (wind not factored  
in), and of
course, if you want to talk abnormalities, we can match anyone but  
Alaska. I
remember some 70 below wind chills. Big adjustment for an AZ boy.  
I've been

here some 6 or 7 winters.

Brian
83 240D



	You can definitely benefit from what I posted earlier. A little  
extra valve clearance on the intakes makes a difference. The exhaust  
valves have enough at the normal setting.Once you get it right,  
you'll be fine.
	I keep some kero around and if I think about it I throw a few  
gallons in the tank and take a little ride a night or two before real  
low temps (Like 25 below). Just pushing the odds a little further in  
my favor.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] 55 vs 70

2006-03-10 Thread RELNGSON
 For a twenty mile trip: 60 vs. 65 - you save 1 min. 32 sec.
 
Lets be a little more realistic.

Seattle to Portland, OR 275 miles
 
 @55mph.5 hours

@70mph.3 hours 55 minutes

One hour  five minutes more exposure to other cars. You know, those other 
incompetents.

RLE



Re: [MBZ] O ring on oil filter housing

2006-03-10 Thread Jim Cathey

Problem:  the last few o rings leak.  The nuts are torqued to 23nm
each.  No change in the quality
of oil from before the leak to after the leaks  began. The housing has
not been damaged or bent.


Any chance there's another old hard flat O-ring mashed up in there?

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-10 Thread Bill Gallagher
All the people I work with and my neighbors are on their second or third 
cars. Total cost for two brand new cars is in the range of 40-65k  plus 
interest cost for some.. they always tease me about my car is under 
repair most of the times  but I tell them in 12 years since I owned 
the car, I have not put 50-60k plus interest cost into repairs ..I 
feel I am ahead of this game.
   On the other hand, there are business tools to answer this question 
under a lot of best guess estimates  My gut reaction from the worst 
to the best case is about above average cost but slowly decreasing over 
time to a reasonable amount. For example, last year on the 300 TD total 
cost was $250, year before $800.00 and this year so far $1,261.00 an 
average of $770.00 dollars driving 30k a year. .0257 cost per mile.
   If I figure in a engine overhaul, $1,000.00 per cylinder plus others 
additional the estimate is $6,000.00 next year ...which comes out to be 
average of $2077.00 per year or .069 per mileage
   Take the cost of a purchase of another MB . and you can do the 
math and estimate repair cost


Bill
1981 300 TD
p.s. major work is done in Canada like $1,261.00 bill at a MB dealer
Price quote in New England was $2,200.00 to $2,500
Take a vacation, have the car repaired and return home is about
the same in the USA  beware, dollar is falling  I started this 
when $1.00 USA dollar
is equal to $1.55 Canadian, now it's $1.00 USA dollar is $1.145 Canadian 
plus the %15 tax

Shop rate MB dealers in Canada is about $85.00 USA dollars per hour

Rick Knoble wrote:

With all due respect, a cheap BMW is much more expensive. ;)



I can second that!
Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD

'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] O ring on oil filter housing

2006-03-10 Thread Bill Gallagher
A long time ago, 8 years or so,  had a major oil leak on the housing 
the garage had it towed and found out the o-ring did not seat properly, 
a defect  installed another o-ring and many miles of happy driving .


Bill
1981 300 TD


Jim Cathey wrote:

Problem:  the last few o rings leak.  The nuts are torqued to 23nm
each.  No change in the quality
of oil from before the leak to after the leaks  began. The housing has
not been damaged or bent.



Any chance there's another old hard flat O-ring mashed up in there?

-- Jim


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[MBZ] looking for airport cards

2006-03-10 Thread Rick Hawkins




Does anyone have an original Apple Airport card they are interested
in selling or swapping for MB parts or whatever else? I see Airport
Extreme cards all over but I can't use the Extreme card for my 
purposes.




Contact me off list  i didn't see you emails

i have original apple and clone cards (not cheap)

i repair macs




thanks,

xx rick
Rick Hawkins

www.javaphoto.com
www.javacycles.com

payment by all major credit cards or by paypal

Java Photo
Java Bajaj Cycles
107 Paradise Boulevard
Athens, Georgia 30607

706 354-0988 3-6 pm or later (eastern time)
706 354-8877 fax
SKYPE: macjava
iCHAT/AIM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



[MBZ] the free? 240D

2006-03-10 Thread kevin kraly
I got a little more info on the car.  It's a pea green manny tranny 240D 
with a little more crunch 'n munch than just the rad.  It needs some 
fixing/replacement done  to the driver's side front fender, front door and 
the rear passenger's window.  This is not so bad, but the kicker is that 
they mentioned a price of $50 for the car, keys and title.  I told them that 
I would accept their ORIGINAL OFFER for me to have the car for nothing.  I'm 
waiting to find out if they decide to go for it.  It's not cool to first say 
it's free and then offer it for $50.  Perhaps the MB Gods are thinking it 
over?


Kevin in HIllsboro Oregon
1973 220D 





Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-03-10 Thread kevin kraly
Now come on over and swap some parts over for me when you get some time! 
Actually, I'm looking forward to getting this 240D and having some fun with 
it.  I'm glad that you're having some fun with yours!


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1973 220D 





Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley
Zoltan Finks wrote:
 Interestingly, the indy that did my engine swap said, when I asked
 him the best way to start in the coldest conditions,
 not to touch the pedal at all, period.

Maybe if you had the manual idle control and you turned it up at startup.
I was reading up on the 60x pumps and it seems that there is a special
startup mode built into the governor, that is engaged by pumping the pedal
once while the engine isn't turning. I suspect the older cars have it too.



[MBZ] Anybody Want This Car?

2006-03-10 Thread Tom Scordato
Before I put it up on eBay, want to offer for the group:  Below is 
description.  Email me direct if you want pictures [EMAIL PROTECTED]  Hate to 
see it go, this car is what started my affair with MB diesels, but I am not 
a two car guy and now I can concentrate on my 1979 240D.  With three kids 
and a garage I can hardly fit my lawn mower in, well...I would like to get 
$300  Regards Tom Scordato


Vin 123 130 12 04 3707

Motor number 617 912 12 0191 87



Up for sale is a Mercedes Benz 1977 300D, naturally aspirated 3.0-liter 
non-turbo, and 123 chassis automobile.  Car has 270K miles on it. I have 
owned the car for the last 100K miles since November of 2002.  This car was 
my daily driver until two weeks ago.  I believe there is something wrong 
with my #5 cylinder.  Could be an injector, but could also be something more 
severe such as valves, piston or connecting rod.  I do not know.  Car is 
drivable, but I do not recommend it until problem is resolved.  A lot of 
blue smoke and no power up hills.  So towing it might be an option.  Your 
choice.




I do not have the time to figure out the problem right now.  My Mercedes 
1979 240D diesel will be my new driver and prime concern now.




1977 300D is being sold for parts or if you want to repair engine and have 
some fun/invest some time you can do it and possibly rebuild engine and a 
have a good driver.  There is an abundance of used engines on the market in 
various shapes and conditions, my estimates are you could drop one of these 
in turnkey price including used engine with used ancillaries in the range of 
$750 to $1,500. For the last 100K miles existing engine only saw Mobil one 
synthetic, changed along with fuel filters every 10,000 miles.  I do not 
have a recent compression test.  I have no service records for the first 
185K  miles of this cars life.




All my service records will be available if you want them at time of 
purchase.




Car has many new parts; the famous HVAC II system servo valve is less than a 
year old and was bought new from for over $500 smackers.  The heavy-duty 
Bilestein shocks have less than 35K miles (they go for 150K +/- miles) were 
installed last year, $ 200 there.  Set of 4 Tires are 65 k all season radial 
tires and have around 5,000 miles on them worth $300 dollars.  New Propeller 
Shaft Flex plates, installed not more than three weeks ago are new.  Starter 
is over sized Bosch (for 300D turbo) unit and is strong.  Battery is an 
interstate about three years old but is going strong.  Vacuum door lock 
rubber units have all been replaced, but door locks just went out after I 
replaced some of the vacuum tubing.  Engine has up dated pencil type glow 
plug conversion, about 15K miles ago




Transmission shifts well and has for the last 100K miles been serviced every 
50K with Mobile 1 fully synthetic tranny fluid.  Back end suspension is ok. 
Differential has seen full synthetic for the last 100K miles.  Brake system 
recently flushed and has seen full synthetic for the last 100K miles. 
Brakes and rotors and calipers are in fine shape. New windshield seal and 
rear window seal.




Interior is in fine shape.  Driver seat has been overhauled.  Numerous other 
things/parts has been done to the car too much to list.  Much money, time 
and TLC has gone into this vehicle.




Car needs upper control arms ($80 in parts not installed plus torsion bar 
bushings $5) from my recent alignment inspection. Car has some rust in the 
usual 123 areas, has some minor water leaks if it rains and the wind blow 50 
plus mph.  Overall paint job is in good shape.  Car also needs a speedo 
cable, speedometer was recently overhauled.




Body repair work has been done around the front fender wells not body shop 
quality but holding its own.




Pa inspection was up in February of 2006, but I do a pre inspection and the 
only thing it needed to pass was the upper control arms and the torsion bar 
bushings.




Payment terms:  Paid in full within 7 days of auction, pay pal, money order, 
cash or certified check only. Pick up will be within 30 calendar days of end 
of auction




Pick up and delivery is by others.  Car has a clean title.

I reserve the right to end this auction at any time prior to the eBay end 
time.




Car is sold as is where is with no warrantees or guarantees implied.









Re: [MBZ] how to take apart w124 seats

2006-03-10 Thread l02turner

Alex wrote:the usual broken 124 headrest issue

Can you please elaborate?  I have a '91 and the headrests are fine - they 
even work with the buttons in the doors - should I expect a problem with to 
arise?


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, '91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] how to take apart w124 seats



On 3/9/06, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I'm wanting to install seatcovers on my 300D, but I can't figure out how
to
take off the seatback to take off the armrest assembly to get the cover
on.
That was how I did it on my W123 300D, but this one, I can't figure it
out.
I unscrewed the seat back panel (2 screws), but couldn't pry off the back
-
the MB-Tex would just pull along with it.



If it's like an '87, the Tex on the side panels wraps around the back and 
is
held under tension in a little gutter at the edge of the panel.  To get 
it

loose you have to put something like a kitchen knife or broad-bladed
screwdriver into the channel at the lower side and pry out the edge.  Push
in on the back panel (towards the front of the car) while prying to 
relieve
the tension on the side panel.  Once you get it started it will unzip 
all

the way up easily.  It's easier to do the outer sides first.  (Although I
don't think I've ever had the back panels all the way off now that I think
about it.  I had to get in there to fix the usual broken 124 headrest 
issue,

but I had plenty of room to work just undoing the outer edge of each back
panel and swinging it out of the way.)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
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Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Christopher McCann
My POW (place of work) installed an outdoor outlet for me...now we have  4 
employees with MB diesels and have to fight over the 2 outlets - look  at the 
problems I caused for myself by converting them!
  
  Once the engine is hot, it takes a while to chill down to the point  that it 
is hard to start, although when it gets REALLY cold, it chills  pretty quickly. 
In Canada, there are outlets at supermarkets,  McDonald's - all over, for the 
gas cars too.
  
  

Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I'm in that last one (MN). Have not 
had the 240D home here until just three
weeks ago. I am expecting to not be able to use the thing when it gets very
cold (until I get a block heater). The indy that installed my new (used)
engine said that he removed, anti-siezed, and replaced the plug that accepts
the factory heater.

Thing that gets me is that the heater will benefit me at home, but if I take
a trip somewhere, even to work let's say, and there is no plug in (which
there won't be in most cases) I've got no heater and thus no start most
likely.

We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway. But
there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must.

Thanks
Brian
83 240D

Chris wrote:

BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or
 north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE
 OTHER GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you  don't
need in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block  heater.
That's for North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota,
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
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All,

After selling my 1984 300D several months ago, I finally got around to goin=
g
over my parts pile in the garage. Got a bunch of odds and ends. If anyone i=
s
intereseted in any of this stuff, make me an offer. If there's no interest
here, it's off to Ebay for the lot.

4  OSRAM console/dash bulbs
1 door check strap, not new but in good shape
approx 11 feet of fuel line in three pieces (~7 ft, ~3 ft, and ~1 ft)
1 lug wrench, official MB, relatively new
2 turbo drain O-rings (004 997 53 48)
1 oil pan, new (115 010 04 28)
2 rubber air cleaner mounts
1 transmission modulator pushrod, new (126 277 93 75)
1 transmission modulator seal, new (014 997 11 48)
 1 transmission front pump gasket, new (126 271 12 80)
1 transmission 

Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Christopher McCann
BERU sells an EXCELLENT kit (which required special glow plugs and a  new (but 
cheap) relay). THese plugs get hotter faster, glow while  starting and glow for 
up to 3 minutes after starting to reduce  emissions and, I imagine, even out 
the engine right after start.
  
  Have them in my SD - THEY ARE GREAT!
  
  Chris

Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  That's good to hear! There were 
actually klattas sold in this climate.

We have adjusted valves, a new battery. I do know that there is a set of
glows available that are somehow higher power for cold conditions? I had
this and a bunch of other info. from the list stored away in another email
account, but that account went away unexpectedly. The outfit that the acct.
was with shall remain unnamed, but it contains the letters used in must
switch now.

Brian
83 240D

On 3/9/06, OK Don  wrote:

 In a few words - Mobil 1 oil, new glow plugs, new battery, and adjust
 the valves - you should not have much trouble starting it in MN
 without the block heater. (My 240D was purchased new in MN by my
 Grandfather).


 
  We don't plan on using the 240 in the winter if we can help it anyway.
 But
  there WILL inevitably be occasions when we must.
 
  Thanks
  Brian
  83 240D

 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 '90 300D 243K, Rattled
 '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
 '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
 '78 450SLC 67K, brown car
 '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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If you've got access to electricity near your car theres a bunch of things you 
can do to get it to start even without a block heater. Although considering 
what they cost (cheap) I think you'd ought to get one. If that plug has been 
out get one soon so it doesn't have time to corrode and get annoying.
  Anyway as Jim Cathy is fond of mentioning you could take a hairdryer or heat 
gun and shoot it in the intake. That'll get you going pretty easy. Other ideas 
include a magnetic stick on heater (extremely inefficient) or electric blanket 
over the engine (be careful of fire), but all in all the block heater is the 
best idea.
   
  I'm not so lucky as 

Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater

2006-03-10 Thread Curt Raymond
Remember that windchill doesn't effect your car...
   
  I live at 1100' (the highest elevation city in New England) and love to hear 
the idiots on the Boston news talking about frigid conditions at 20F. Its 
always at least 10 degrees colder in Gardner and since we're on top of a hill 
its always windy. I got a radio controlled plane a couple years ago for 
Christmas but I rarely get to fly it, seems like whenever I'm ready to fly its 
way to windy...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 23:43:52 -0600
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater
 (free)
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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John,

I live in SE Minnesota. Yes, it's southern MN, but it is cold, 
especially
when wind chill is factored in (it is a windy region and the wind chill
factors usually result in the same feel as up north MN, which doesn't 
get as
much wind - this according to the weather reports on TV). We are very
familiar with sub-zero. Each winter we can look forward to quite a few 
days
below zero and some teens and twenties below (wind not factored in), 
and of
course, if you want to talk abnormalities, we can match anyone but 
Alaska. I
remember some 70 below wind chills. Big adjustment for an AZ boy. I've 
been
here some 6 or 7 winters.

Brian
83 240D



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  Anyway as Jim Cathey is fond of mentioning you could take a hairdryer 
 or heat gun and shoot it in the intake. That'll get you going pretty 
 easy.

On the Unimog it's a lot easier, since you can sit in the driver's
seat and point the gun at the air intake snorkel.  It's metal, too,
so the heat gun is unlikely to do any damage even if mishandled.
This'd be a lot harder on a car where, if alone, you'd have to
hang the thing on the front by itself.

-- Jim




[MBZ] W123 parts wanted

2006-03-10 Thread Jim Cathey

Anybody got a U-Pull (-priced, anyway) right front fender molding?
Also need two ivory-ish hubcaps, but I hold out less hope for those.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-10 Thread Curt Raymond
I've been taking car repair vacations for quite awhile now. Every year when we 
go to camp for a week I try to schedule in a repair on my pickup. Why? $30/hr 
labor is why. The quality of the work is excellent and the guy appreciates it 
when I tip him $50. I appreciate coming out $200-$300 ahead... Couple years ago 
I had the radiator done, got it online for an outstanding price (although its 
leaking now, maybe it wasn't such a great deal) and had it installed with new 
hoses, thermostat and a coolant flush and refill with fresh for like $80.
   
  If I keep the Dakota (185k) it'll need a replacement transfer case and 
probably transmission before too long (I think 185k on the trans is pretty 
dammed good) plus some body work. If I decide to go that route it'll be a 2 
week vacation I think...
   
  -Curt
   
   
  Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 02:11:07 -0500
From: Bill Gallagher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Bill
1981 300 TD
p.s. major work is done in Canada like $1,261.00 bill at a MB dealer
Price quote in New England was $2,200.00 to $2,500
Take a vacation, have the car repaired and return home is about
the same in the USA  beware, dollar is falling  I started this 
when $1.00 USA dollar
is equal to $1.55 Canadian, now it's $1.00 USA dollar is $1.145 
Canadian 
plus the %15 tax
Shop rate MB dealers in Canada is about $85.00 USA dollars per hour




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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater
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 Remember that windchill doesn't effect your car...

It does, in that it will take your car down to ambient temperature
faster.  That is, if it's cold _and_ windy enough it won't matter
that you drove your car to work in the morning, it still might not
start to go home if all the heat has been sucked out again.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] the free? 240D

2006-03-10 Thread Curt Raymond
Is it also a 115? Why not swap its engine into your 220D?
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 23:54:21 -0800
From: kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] the free? 240D
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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 reply-type=original

I got a little more info on the car.  It's a pea green manny tranny 
240D 
with a little more crunch 'n munch than just the rad.  It needs some 
fixing/replacement done  to the driver's side front fender, front door 
and 
the rear passenger's window.  This is not so bad, but the kicker is 
that 
they mentioned a price of $50 for the car, keys and title.  I told them 
that 
I would accept their ORIGINAL OFFER for me to have the car for nothing.  
I'm 
waiting to find out if they decide to go for it.  It's not cool to 
first say 
it's free and then offer it for $50.  Perhaps the MB Gods are thinking 
it 
over?

Kevin in HIllsboro Oregon
1973 220D 


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The last couple days I seem to be not getting all the emails from the list. I 
know this because yesterday for instance I only saw one digest all day. Today I 
see a post from Jim Cathy replied to that I never saw in the first place.
  Is this some plot of my employer to improve my productivity?
   
  -Curt


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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)
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Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Marshall Booth

Zoltan Finks wrote:

Ah! thanks. Yeah, I read in the owner's manual a couple interesting things
on cold weather starting: They said not to interrupt the starting procedure,
otherwise you may not get it started, or words to that effect. And they said
to pump it three times before cranking, and I forget whether they said to
hold it to the floor or not, and yes, to keep the starter running 'til it
the engine is running smoothly. Interestingly, the indy that did my engine
swap said, when I asked him the best way to start in the coldest conditions,
not to touch the pedal at all, period. But then again, cold to him is 30's.
At any rate, I will certainly take your word and try your suggested method!

I discovered a few things in getting the old ill-fated engine to start, one
of which was to keep that starter engaged 'til the thing was running
adequately. This was counter to what I was used to.

ALSO: Seasoned dieseler, don't jump on me, but I want to ask what the effect
of feathering the pedal during starting and while the thing is trying to get
going. I don't have an understanding of the workings of the system like I do
the workings of a carbureted gas engine, which actually squirts fuel with
each pump via the accelerator pump.

And thanks for the tip on the long extension cord. Will do.


What is it about following what Mercedes says about cold starting that 
you don't understand and why don't you want to follow what they recommend?


They REALLY have started more Mercedes under worse conditions than 
almost anybody else!!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] O ring on oil filter housing

2006-03-10 Thread Marshall Booth

Constantine N. Polites wrote:
On the 350 sdl, the oil filter housing has a large o ring.  This is 
changed with every oil change.
The new cross section (diameter) is 4 mm.  This changes after 2,000 
miles and becomes 3.5mm
Problem:  the last few o rings leak.  The nuts are torqued to 23nm 
each.  No change in the quality
of oil from before the leak to after the leaks  began. The housing has 
not been damaged or bent.

Anyone with this problem? Any known solutions?


Never measured a new on or old one. Never needed to. The first thing I'd 
do is change brands of filter (who supply the O ring) or purchase some 
from a dealer to see if they give problems. I have NEVER had any problem 
with a leak there UNLESS someone didn't remove the old O ring so there 
were two on the filter or didn't put any on.


Marshall
--
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  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




[MBZ] almost new muffler - Eberspaecher - $75

2006-03-10 Thread Christopher McCann
For:
  
  300TE
  300 TE 4-matic
  ab 89 Merc 300 TE-24 - I think that means 300TE W124, since 1989...?
  280TE
  E280
  320TE
  E320
  200TE
  220TE ab 92 - 220 TE from 1992 on
  E250D
  E300D Kombi (what's a Kombi???)
  
  Affiliation - it's mine and I'm selling it.
  
  It was on my 300TD when I bought it. Was not on it for long. Will send  pics 
to whomever is interesting. Looks practically brand new. It came  off when I 
got a total brand new exhaust system from Mercedes due to  trap oxidizer 
recall. Piece of the ceramic trap can break off and lodge  in things like your 
turbo and your muffler too, I guess. BUT the trap  was gutted (and welded shut 
VERY well) beofre this muffler was put on,  so there is no damage to it that 
way. It DOES NOT seems that this  muffler belonged on a 300TD, but it worked 
well for the short time it  was there.
  
  Shipping is actual cost to ship via UPS.
  
  Let me know if you want to see pics.
  
  Thanks,
  
  CM
  
  
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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what's so special about Fry's?  I've never been to one, but then again I
don't buy from retailers much any more.

On 3/10/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It should be illegal for westcoasters to torture eastcoasters with the
 mere mention of Fry's. I'd give you all the CompUSA's on the planet for o=
ne
 Fry's.

   -Curt

   Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 20:12:26 -0800
 From: redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Apple original Airport card
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3DUS-ASCII; format=3Dflowed

 Look at USB ethernet or wireless to regain your networking.  I have
 tried a few and they do a fine job on a non powered hub.  IIRC, there
 are wireless adapters at Fry's too.



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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] Apple original Airport card

2006-03-10 Thread paul
They're the Wal-Mart of electronics.  We have them here in Texas...the 
nearest being about 5 minutes from my house.


p.


Sunil Hari wrote:


what's so special about Fry's?  I've never been to one, but then again I
don't buy from retailers much any more.

On 3/10/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 


It should be illegal for westcoasters to torture eastcoasters with the
mere mention of Fry's. I'd give you all the CompUSA's on the planet for one
Fry's.

 -Curt
   





Re: [MBZ] W126 rear Window

2006-03-10 Thread John W. Reames III
The trim is pulled out after the window and rubber are out of the car. It 
bends VERY easily and looks like crap when it does. 

IIRC I did something cheap and used a couple of bits of high density 
foam (you could also make little rolls of electrical tape) and use it 
to hold the wire in the moulding (in the water channel). 

On my 210 I just stashed the antenna on top of a steel part underneath the 
package shelf. I get decent reception and it is pretty stealth.
-j.





Re: [MBZ] Chain Stretch?

2006-03-10 Thread John W. Reames III
On Thu, 9 Mar 2006, Chuck Landenberger wrote:
 A timing chain gets longer because of wear of its component metal  
 parts causing its length to increase, not due to any flexibility of  
 its parts
The tensioner has to be replaced (or reset if you are cheap) when the 
chain is replaced. That is stretch.

I've seen BICYCLE chains that are longer than their replacement with the 
same number of links. (Let them go too long and you'll be replacing the 
chainrings and cogs when you do the chain.)

-j.





Re: [MBZ] OT: 1988 Caprice Classic half track/ice fishing vehicle

2006-03-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
The Red Green show?  It's hilarious!

On 3/9/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yes! Love the Red Green!

 Brian

 On 3/9/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  R A Bennell wrote:
   Now, you know, you have to admit it is kinda neat - and it went for
  under a
   grand.
 
  It's extremely clever and also frightening at the same time.
 
  It looks like something Red Green would come up with.
 
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Re: [MBZ] Apple original Airport card

2006-03-10 Thread Rick Knoble

I am not into Mac's, but is this what you are talking about??
http://shop4.outpost.com/search?search_type=regularsqxts=1query_string=airportcat=46974submit.x=7submit.y=14

Seems a little pricy. but then I know nothing of Mac's...
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT 



Re: [MBZ] Block Heater Yes or no

2006-03-10 Thread Richard Barnaby
Been following the Block Heater yes or no controversy.
My .02
First my credentials 300SD 1979 driving daily between
Montpelier VT and Montreal in up to (down to -30)
Ungaraged car. I used a block heater.
In most cases without it, won't start after overnight
But will start leaving at work w/o plug in.  BUT
If plug available will use it.
Rationale:  Even if you COULD get by without it,
Why not have the oil more warm and available.
Seems to me, cheap insurance on the engine life.

Cold Weather true story.
Once at Montreal Airport Hilton, the temp was about -40 which is the temp at
which Celsius and Farenheit scales are the same, which is also common
knowledge to anyone living in this region.  It was really cold, and windy
too.  I was waiting along with others in the lobby for some reason, and
various people would enter and a gust of frigid air would immediately negate
any effect the hotel's heating system had built up since the last entry.
The desk clerk was a bit of a clown.  The temperature was a matter of public
knowledge that night.  When one new patron entered, and exclaimed Man it's
COLD out there.  The clerk, innocently said, How cold?.  The person
entering said Forty Below.  The clerk, again innocently, Is that Celsius
or Farenheit, baiting him for the expected reply, It's the SAME.  But
this patron obviously didn't know that, and instead exclaims, Who Cares?,
which if you think about it, is a much better reply.


-- 
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.2.1/278 - Release Date: 3/9/2006
 




[MBZ] ALDA Shaft seal and O-ring

2006-03-10 Thread Mark . Maturo

Would anyone know where I can get a replacement  shaft seal and O-ring for
the ALDA?

Thanks



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Re: [MBZ] worth at least 17k

2006-03-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
Maybe 17K rupees.  It needs a complete cosmetic restoration and who knows
what else...   I also personally hate black interiors, even more so when the
the front AND the rear seat leather is cracked.  :((

On 3/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-red-black-1970-Mercedes-Benz-300SEL-6-3-W109-M100-SUNROOF_W0QQitemZ4620329136QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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Re: [MBZ] wow

2006-03-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
I had an even nicer one that was mittlerot (med. red) - stunning color!  It
also had a Becker GP radio with the search bar.  Too cool for words...  Sold
it for $8500 in 1984 after driving it 1 year.

On 3/10/06, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Wonder how close to $10k it gets.  My vote is for too close.

 On Thursday, March 9, 2006, at 08:08 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

  Man, I want that.
 
  Brian
 
  On 3/9/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 

 --
 Clay
 Seattle Bioburner

 1972 220D - Gump
 1995 E300D - Cleo
 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
 The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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[MBZ] Two way antenna want 3 way 1233 300 TD

2006-03-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
My replacement Hirschmann antenna on the 1983 300TD is great except that the
middle position controlled by the switch no longer is operative. Is there
any way to rectify this?  There is a Baltimore FM station that I can receive
only in the half-way down/up position.

Andrew
1983 300TD


Re: [MBZ] Two way antenna want 3 way 1233 300 TD

2006-03-10 Thread John Ervine

andrew strasfogel wrote:

My replacement Hirschmann antenna on the 1983 300TD is great except that the
middle position controlled by the switch no longer is operative. Is there
any way to rectify this?  There is a Baltimore FM station that I can receive
only in the half-way down/up position.


The replacement antenna is an all or nothing deal - it's either up, or it's 
down.  It's the one drawback to the replacement v/s the original.


--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi
1980 300TD 175+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi
1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi



Re: [MBZ] wow

2006-03-10 Thread R A Bennell
Not to be picky, but if it was not driven in winter or when it rained, why
does it have the big mud flaps on it?

Looks a lot like my car. I have the sunroof but not the right side mirror.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 10:00 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] wow


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-Used-Mercedes-Benz-3
00d-1975_W0QQitemZ4620572811QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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Re: [MBZ] Two way antenna want 3 way 1233 300 TD

2006-03-10 Thread Levi Smith
OK, so what exactly is the purpose of this semi-up option?  I've never 
understood that.  Unless you had some specific requirement like I need 
to clear this branch but I still want radio reception...


Levi

John Ervine wrote:

andrew strasfogel wrote:
  

My replacement Hirschmann antenna on the 1983 300TD is great except that the
middle position controlled by the switch no longer is operative. Is there
any way to rectify this?  There is a Baltimore FM station that I can receive
only in the half-way down/up position.



The replacement antenna is an all or nothing deal - it's either up, or it's 
down.  It's the one drawback to the replacement v/s the original.


  




Re: [MBZ] wow

2006-03-10 Thread R A Bennell
Hey somebody keep an eye on this one and let us know what it goes for. Will
be interesting to see what it brings.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 10:00 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] wow


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-Used-Mercedes-Benz-3
00d-1975_W0QQitemZ4620572811QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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Re: [MBZ] Cheap paint booth

2006-03-10 Thread R A Bennell
Is that not what the garage is for? You should see the overspray on stuff in
my garage.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of redghost
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 11:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cheap paint booth


I am in a micro-climate that is plagued by subtle gusts of wind at the
most inopportune moments.  I have ended up rattle can painting the
garden and curb more than the item intending to be painted.  I am sure
the booth would have allowed me to reduce by at least a can or two the
refinish of bundts and the MBTex.  Will really need it when Gump gets
her new coat.

On Thursday, March 9, 2006, at 05:51 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

 On 3/7/06, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/139979639.html

 since we are cheap, why not supply our own?
 --



 I think to most of the people on this list the term paint booth
 refers to
 the driveway on a fairly calm day.  That's certainly what it means to
 me.
 And if I'm feeling especially proud of my craft I might shake the
 rattlecan
 for an extra second or two before getting started.

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo
 '93 Isuzu Trooper
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Christopher McCann
OK - My SARCASM warning light came on, brightly...please acknowledge that you 
are joking, so it will go out.
  
  Chris

R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  That really sounds abusive to a cold 
engine. Can they really handle this
sort of thing without harm? I never try to start mine in the winter but even
in the fall it was cool enough that it did not start like in the summer. I
felt bad about having to hold the pedal down a bit to keep it running.

Randy B

-Original Message- Or at least part of it.


  A few glow cycles is also a must when it gets down there. It is
also wise to crank, non-stop with the pedal floored until the engine
is firing on enough cylinders to keep itself running. This can take
quite a bit of cranking but it is necessary and the starter can
handle it.


Johnny B.




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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
Yahoo! Mail
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Levi Smith wrote:
 OK, so what exactly is the purpose of this semi-up option?  I've never 
 understood that.  Unless you had some specific requirement like I need 
 to clear this branch but I still want radio reception...

The best that I can explain it is that the half-way position is an urban 
setting, while fully extended is for rural use.  The antenna button in the 
center console is for fine tuning.  Someone can certainly explain it better 
than that...

-- 
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi
1980 300TD 175+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi
1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi



Re: [MBZ] Two way antenna want 3 way 1233 300 TD

2006-03-10 Thread Levi Smith
Well, I guess that kind of makes sense.  I guess I just have a hard time 
believing that it makes that much difference.  Then again, I've never 
tried it in an urban setting. 
I assume this is similar to the local/dx switches on most radios that 
sound like they more or less cut the power to avoid overloading the signal?


Levi

John Ervine wrote:

Levi Smith wrote:
  
OK, so what exactly is the purpose of this semi-up option?  I've never 
understood that.  Unless you had some specific requirement like I need 
to clear this branch but I still want radio reception...



The best that I can explain it is that the half-way position is an urban 
setting, while fully extended is for rural use.  The antenna button in the 
center console is for fine tuning.  Someone can certainly explain it better 
than that...


  




Re: [MBZ] ALDA Shaft seal and O-ring

2006-03-10 Thread Dave M.
Pretty sure Jim Friesen sells these.  Jim, you out there?

Otherwise, you'd need to hit up a Bosch shop. Also, opening up the
ALDA can be a pain, sometimes the four Phillips screws can be hard to
get out. And you may need to use some sealer on the outer edge of the
big O-ring that seals the two halves of the ALDA. I used Yamabond, but
something similar would work fine.

:)

-Dave M.

 --
 Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 11:49:25 -0500
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] ALDA Shaft seal and O-ring


 Would anyone know where I can get a replacement  shaft seal and O-ring for
 the ALDA?

 Thanks



Re: [MBZ] Apple original Airport card

2006-03-10 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 10, 2006, at 11:48 AM, Rick Knoble wrote:


I am not into Mac's, but is this what you are talking about??
http://shop4.outpost.com/search? 
search_type=regularsqxts=1query_string=airportcat=46974submit.x=7 
submit.y=14


Seems a little pricy. but then I know nothing of Mac's...
Rick Knoble



	Close. Airport Extreme is for newer Macs and it is used on 802.11G  
wireless networks. This card will work on 802.11B also but is not  
backwards compatible to earlier machines. The card I'm looking for is  
the Original Airport card. Thanks for bringing this to my attention  
though.
	It is no emergency, my ethernet port got fried from a lightning  
strike back in August. I have newer Macs on my network and just  
wanted to keep this one going.
	I can network via firewire but I can't locate the iMac too far away  
from another. The whole machine can be replaced for $50-$75 and that  
is what I will probably do unless I can swing a good deal on a used  
Airport Card. They are no longer available new from Apple, I'm not  
sure that an aftermarket card is available.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Cheap paint booth

2006-03-10 Thread Dave Wakin
I use my garage, but only after using some heavy mill plastic to make a 
spray both. I usually wet the floor down as well.


I have sprayed an entire car this way, but the fumes get pretty heavy.

Dave W

Is that not what the garage is for? You should see the overspray on stuff 
in

my garage.






Re: [MBZ] Apple original Airport card

2006-03-10 Thread redghost
I tested with my Indigo slot iMac (500mhz). I have not seen any 
firewire ethernet adapters.  Could be out there and I am just blind.  
Having never seen an airport card in the flesh, are they not just 
PCMCIA cards?  On the iMac there is a stand off.connector that one 
needs to add to mine, but I am not interested in paying $50 for that 
little doo hickey.



On Thursday, March 9, 2006, at 10:00 PM, John Berryman wrote:



On Mar 9, 2006, at 11:12 PM, redghost wrote:


Look at USB ethernet


Are there FireWire adapters too?


or wireless to regain your networking.


This is what I would prefer to do


  I have
tried a few and they do a fine job on a non powered hub.  IIRC, there
are wireless adapters at Fry's too.


I'll see if I can find their website. I have not seen a third party
card that replaces Apple's Airport card. The machine we're discussing
has no expansion slots, just an internal adapter and antenna for the
Airport card. It is an iMac built in 2001.





--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Apple original Airport card

2006-03-10 Thread Rick Knoble

 The whole machine can be replaced for $50-$75 and that
is what I will probably do unless I can swing a good deal on a used
Airport Card. They are no longer available new from Apple, I'm not
sure that an aftermarket card is available.


eBay and they are not cheap. 
http://search.ebay.com/apple-airport-card_W0QQfromZR40QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQssPageNameZWLRS


Better to buy another machine if you can get one for less than one of these 
cards...


Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT



Re: [MBZ] 55 vs 70

2006-03-10 Thread redghost
Roger, you drive really slow!   You must also be way north, or doing 
round trip.  Gump made PDX from UW in a bit over 2hr 15 minutes on a 
sunday.  RT was five hours because I had to hit the head.


On Thursday, March 9, 2006, at 10:24 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


For a twenty mile trip: 60 vs. 65 - you save 1 min. 32 sec.


Lets be a little more realistic.

Seattle to Portland, OR 275 miles


@55mph.5 hours


@70mph.3 hours 55 minutes

One hour  five minutes more exposure to other cars. You know, those 
other

incompetents.

RLE

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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Wulf is back! AND Stanadyne in line fuel heater (free)

2006-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
 Marshall: I'm going to say this with as much respect as I can muster:

I did not say that I was not going to follow the guidelines in the owner's
manual.

I am simply trying to gather information from as many sources as possible.
That is why I asked my indy. That is why I asked this list. And that is why
I consulted the owner's manual. And I will continue to gather information,
and to find what works for me in reality. And therein lies the crux of this
issue - reality. I will find what works for me. I bounce questions off of
people, then get their advice, then determine in my mind what to do with
that advice. I know you greatly admire MB and have much experience with
them. But I will do things my way, and you are free to do them yours.

Thank you for your input, but I would ask, again as respectfully as I
possibly can, that if your responses to my questions are going to include
the type of demeaning language that you have written to me several times
this week, then please refrain from directing any response to me in the
future. Conversely, and preferrably, you can tell me specifically what it is
that you do not like about me. As you well know, you are free to delete any
of my posts if that's what you choose.

Maybe this type of language is just your way.  I know you are a senior,
experienced man and a PhD and a Marine. But it is not my way. And I have
been watching very closely, and I am the only one lately who has received
such discourtesy from you.

Brian
83 240D

Marshall wrote:

What is it about following what Mercedes says about cold starting that
 you don't understand and why don't you want to follow what they recommend?

 They REALLY have started more Mercedes under worse conditions than
 almost anybody else!!

 Marshall
 --
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
 turbo 237kmi

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