[MBZ] I am on crank
Well I got the balancer/pulley pulled off the parts engine and installed on the 85 300D, so its now ready to go again. I ended up using a steering wheel puller for GM cars on it. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid
Loren Faeth wrote: What they said, and if you can't find an easier way to get the ATF in the trans and the lube in the diff, I have used a pump oil can. It takes a while, but it will put the stuff into hard to get to places, and doesn't not cost a fortune or tie up a lot of space. Last time I had to do a VW transmission, I used a length of clear tubing from the hardware store, with a funnel jammed in the end. I snaked it out from under the car to where I could stand, holding the end, and let gravity feed the fluid in. If you're smart, you'll heat the bottles of oil first in a warm water bath so it will flow better. I wasn't that smart and ended up standing around all afternoon watching it. This was SAE 90 gear oil, which is the consistency of honey when cold.
Re: [MBZ] I am on crank
Kaleb typed: I am on crank Good thing this wasn't on Banned... Bob Rentfro
[MBZ] Rant about driver door window switches-300D's
I am asking the group for some collective wisdom about how to get more service life out of these switches. I live in Arizona, where you typically have the windows rolled up the majority of the year. Yet, every 16 months, for the past 15 years, on each of my three 300D's, I have had to buy a new switch. Usually what happens is that the rocker action becomes sticky, then the switch literally flies apart into your hand on one of the next cycles. At nearly a hundred bux a pop from Rusty, it seems to me that there should be something from a maintenance standpoint that could be done to get some more service life out of these switches. Anyone have some suggestions? Marshall in Feenix '77 300D, '81 300TD, '85 300DT (Kalifornia)
Re: [MBZ] Rant about driver door window switches-300D's
I always disassemble them and spray liberally with contact cleaner. Seems to hold up for 30,000 miles or so like that. On 5/11/06, Marshall Field [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am asking the group for some collective wisdom about how to get more service life out of these switches. I live in Arizona, where you typically have the windows rolled up the majority of the year. Yet, every 16 months, for the past 15 years, on each of my three 300D's, I have had to buy a new switch. Usually what happens is that the rocker action becomes sticky, then the switch literally flies apart into your hand on one of the next cycles. At nearly a hundred bux a pop from Rusty, it seems to me that there should be something from a maintenance standpoint that could be done to get some more service life out of these switches. Anyone have some suggestions? Marshall in Feenix '77 300D, '81 300TD, '85 300DT (Kalifornia) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Rant about driver door window switches-300D's
If you're going to take them apart, do it inside a ziplock bag so, if the parts and pieces jetteson from the housing, they are contained. Be careful taking the switch out/prying up the fakeola chrome trim...it breaks easily after having been in our cars in AZ. Bob Rentfro '77 300D 153K Litchfield Park, AZ - Original Message - From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:42 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rant about driver door window switches-300D's I always disassemble them and spray liberally with contact cleaner. Seems to hold up for 30,000 miles or so like that. On 5/11/06, Marshall Field [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am asking the group for some collective wisdom about how to get more service life out of these switches. I live in Arizona, where you typically have the windows rolled up the majority of the year. Yet, every 16 months, for the past 15 years, on each of my three 300D's, I have had to buy a new switch. Usually what happens is that the rocker action becomes sticky, then the switch literally flies apart into your hand on one of the next cycles. At nearly a hundred bux a pop from Rusty, it seems to me that there should be something from a maintenance standpoint that could be done to get some more service life out of these switches. Anyone have some suggestions? Marshall in Feenix '77 300D, '81 300TD, '85 300DT (Kalifornia) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid
There are also small pumps intended for filling the lower units of outboard motors with gear oil available for very little money. They pump a bit faster than an oil can and with any luck the fitting on the pump will fit the cap on the oil bottle. I have used that sort of thing with some success. Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 5:20 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid What they said, and if you can't find an easier way to get the ATF in the trans and the lube in the diff, I have used a pump oil can. It takes a while, but it will put the stuff into hard to get to places, and doesn't not cost a fortune or tie up a lot of space. At 05:10 PM 5/11/2006, you wrote: you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear, yes, do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug. ... Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain AND suck for greater fluid evacuation? Draining out the drain hole is not enough? It's all about level. If it's level, it ought to fully drain and you won't overfill. If you just jack the ass of the car up for access, then all might not drain out, and you could overfill a bit. If you need to jack it for access, run the front up on ramps first. (Or jack up both ends, but I find 50% rampage easier.) I used the sucker on the 240D, but that's because it was full of black glop with the texture of runny mashed potatoes. It wouldn't actually drain much by itself. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Rant about driver door window switches-300D's
Usually what happens is that the rocker action becomes sticky, then the switch literally flies apart into your hand on one of the next cycles. Disassemble and clean, then reassemble with a dot of grease on the BB's. But I've never had a switch pop apart by itself, the usual problem around here is they get dirty and stop working correctly. I often do a rocker transplant from good junkyard rear window switches so that I get renewed legends on the front ones. Of course that's a perfect time to clean them too. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid
What's the access port on top of the diff? 14mm hex, 5mm allen, 10mm socket, what? For the vent? Vise-grips, in my case! It's a round barrel doodad that vaguely resembles the old-style fuel primer pump. It may have some flats on it, I forget, and it has a crimped-on cap with ears on it that are open on the bottom. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] W140
Beyond the wiring harness and the A/C, the blower regulator is known for melting if it's not properly installed with the right amount of thermal paste and fins, and the close assist pump (pulls doors closed) usually fails too and needs to replace, or perhaps fixed (iffy). Budget oh say $1000 to fix those two wouldn't be uncommon. Let's see oh ball joints, things in the front end, tires, it's a heavy car and things wear out much faster. mmm another 2K wouldn't be out of line. I'd say hunt for a 99 which has had the A/C evaporator replaced, that or budget $4-6K to fix just that depending on where you live. People who run Mobil 1 ATF seem to imply the transmissions last a long time, I can't say I've read about issues with transmission. On 11-May-06, at 1:20 AM, Tarek Elshenawy wrote: So I know I've seen stuff on the lists about these things having problems, but never paid attention because I thought ownership was out of the question. I recently came across a fine specimen, however and wish to be enlightened about general maintenance and common problems. The car is a 1995 S420. I remember reading about wiring harness problems... is this all wiring harnesses? I recall reading an article about how the wiring for the AC compressor was too short, but starting in 95, they corrected the problem. Did Mercedes address all wiring problems starting in 95? My second question is regarding the chassis. Does the 95 S420V designation constitute an extended wheelbase? I know they made short and long wheelbase S320's, but were all S420, 500 and 600's the long wheelbase versions? I also remember reading that the major downfall of all the gasoline W140 models was the transmission. Is this true? In short, I would just like any information regarding the common problems and general maintenance for the W140, specifically the S420 if possible. Thanks in advance. Tarek Elshenawy John 1983 300TDt 364k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac) 1990's 300TDt 166k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac) 1993 500SEL 174k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
Re: [MBZ] W140
What was the last year the diesel S-class DIDN'T have the 3.5L diesel engine? That will be my new target car. IIRC, the 126 was cursed with the 3.5L engine for a short time near the end of its life cycle. On the other hand, if the 126 ever came with the 3.5L engine, maybe I should look for one of those with a replacement engine On 5/11/06, John M McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Beyond the wiring harness and the A/C, the blower regulator is known for melting if it's not properly installed with the right amount of thermal paste and fins, and the close assist pump (pulls doors closed) usually fails too and needs to replace, or perhaps fixed (iffy). Budget oh say $1000 to fix those two wouldn't be uncommon. Let's see oh ball joints, things in the front end, tires, it's a heavy car and things wear out much faster. mmm another 2K wouldn't be out of line. I'd say hunt for a 99 which has had the A/C evaporator replaced, that or budget $4-6K to fix just that depending on where you live. People who run Mobil 1 ATF seem to imply the transmissions last a long time, I can't say I've read about issues with transmission. On 11-May-06, at 1:20 AM, Tarek Elshenawy wrote: So I know I've seen stuff on the lists about these things having problems, but never paid attention because I thought ownership was out of the question. I recently came across a fine specimen, however and wish to be enlightened about general maintenance and common problems. The car is a 1995 S420. I remember reading about wiring harness problems... is this all wiring harnesses? I recall reading an article about how the wiring for the AC compressor was too short, but starting in 95, they corrected the problem. Did Mercedes address all wiring problems starting in 95? My second question is regarding the chassis. Does the 95 S420V designation constitute an extended wheelbase? I know they made short and long wheelbase S320's, but were all S420, 500 and 600's the long wheelbase versions? I also remember reading that the major downfall of all the gasoline W140 models was the transmission. Is this true? In short, I would just like any information regarding the common problems and general maintenance for the W140, specifically the S420 if possible. Thanks in advance. Tarek Elshenawy John 1983 300TDt 364k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac) 1990's 300TDt 166k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac) 1993 500SEL 174k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] W140
The last S class in the US without the 3.5 would be the 87 300SDL. Sunil Hari wrote: What was the last year the diesel S-class DIDN'T have the 3.5L diesel engine? That will be my new target car. IIRC, the 126 was cursed with the 3.5L engine for a short time near the end of its life cycle. On the other hand, if the 126 ever came with the 3.5L engine, maybe I should look for one of those with a replacement engine -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] W140
The '87 300SDL W126 was the last S class diesel before the 350SDL came into being in 1989-1991. 1992 was the first year of the W140 actually badged as the 300SD. I'm not sure when they became S350D's. Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 1981 300CD 204K miles, Giesela
Re: [MBZ] W140
94 kevin kraly wrote: The '87 300SDL W126 was the last S class diesel before the 350SDL came into being in 1989-1991. 1992 was the first year of the W140 actually badged as the 300SD. I'm not sure when they became S350D's. Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 1981 300CD 204K miles, Giesela ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid
Jim Cathey wrote: Marshall - overflow hole??? There's one of those? And how do you check if it's clogged? How do you unclog it? There is a vent on the top of the differential, and it can get clogged. They just unscrew, you can then clean them out. Make sure you clean off the top of the differential first so crud doesn't drop into the open hole. What Jim said. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid
plain old fashioned oil can with a thumb pump, as opposed to the kind you have to turn upside down to get the oil to run out. About $3 at the hardware store. At 05:42 PM 5/11/2006, you wrote: What's the access port on top of the diff? 14mm hex, 5mm allen, 10mm socket, what? And what's this pump oil can Loren mentioned? I had to use a length of heater hose and it sucked. On 5/11/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What they said, and if you can't find an easier way to get the ATF in the trans and the lube in the diff, I have used a pump oil can. It takes a while, but it will put the stuff into hard to get to places, and doesn't not cost a fortune or tie up a lot of space. At 05:10 PM 5/11/2006, you wrote: you don't fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, as this can cause front seal problems if the overflow vent is blocked. And then I hear, yes, do fill high enough to leak out the fill hole, then put in the plug. ... Also: below I'm advised to suck the fluid out. Is this to say drain AND suck for greater fluid evacuation? Draining out the drain hole is not enough? It's all about level. If it's level, it ought to fully drain and you won't overfill. If you just jack the ass of the car up for access, then all might not drain out, and you could overfill a bit. If you need to jack it for access, run the front up on ramps first. (Or jack up both ends, but I find 50% rampage easier.) I used the sucker on the 240D, but that's because it was full of black glop with the texture of runny mashed potatoes. It wouldn't actually drain much by itself. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617
SO make one - you know, like you made the spreader when you changed the B2 in the car -- Piece of angle iron with a hole in the middle. bolt through the hole, nut on the side facing the engine. Clamp the angle iron to the balancer. hold the nut with a wrench, turn the bolt with another wrench - push against the big canter bold head - off comes the balancer. BUT - if you have another engine sitting in the garage - just swap them! On 5/11/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well I just checked the CD and it says something about a puller. Crap, I dont have a puller. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
[MBZ] Mounting rear bumper rubber: 123 vs. 108/109/111
I felt like a real champion when I discovered how easy it was to mount the rubber strip on the rear bumper of my son's 1985 300D. Just whack it with a mallet the length of the rubber and the strip pops into place on the steel flange of the bumper. On my late111 coupe, however, I had no such luck and had to laboriously lube and thread the rubber the length of the bumper. When I tried to bash it into place it just made the car vibrate and had no effect. Is there a shortcut? Both the 123 and 111 or 108/109 rubber strips are similar in that they are designed to inerlock with the steel part of the bumper... 1983 300TD 1970 280SE 3.5 W111
Re: [MBZ] W140
What was hand fitted on the 126? I've heard over the years that several different models were each the last model with hands laid on them during assembly - don't know what to believe. On 5/11/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The 126 is way more car than the 140 could ever hope to be. That is why I keep the 87 SDL. It is a really nice one. I only drive it a little each summer. But if I ever wear out my 86, I have the 87 ready to go. the 126 was the last of the hand fitted Mercedes. And the Long model is that much nicer. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] VIN check please
Hmm. Shows how much I know. I'll have to check that list out. Brian On 5/11/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We do on the biodiesel list. Zoltan Finks wrote: Do you guys talk about WVO too? Brian On 5/10/06, Bruce Lulfs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: WDBAB33A4EA040053 Bruce Sandy Our Biodiesel site http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biodieseltolarea Our Home Web site http://home.toltbbs.com/kb8dil/ ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Mounting rear bumper rubber: 123 vs. 108/109/111
Soapy water for lube. Works like a charm, can almost slide it on by hand. On Thu, 11 May 2006 22:21:01 -0500, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I felt like a real champion when I discovered how easy it was to mount the rubber strip on the rear bumper of my son's 1985 300D. Just whack it with a mallet the length of the rubber and the strip pops into place on the steel flange of the bumper. On my late111 coupe, however, I had no such luck and had to laboriously lube and thread the rubber the length of the bumper. When I tried to bash it into place it just made the car vibrate and had no effect. Is there a shortcut? Both the 123 and 111 or 108/109 rubber strips are similar in that they are designed to inerlock with the steel part of the bumper... 1983 300TD 1970 280SE 3.5 W111 -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) '82 300CD (159,xxx kmi) '82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
Re: [MBZ] I am on crank
Kaleb: Did you get my order with the question about payment? I'm re-sending it to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D - - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 7:04 PM Subject: [MBZ] I am on crank Well I got the balancer/pulley pulled off the parts engine and installed on the 85 300D, so its now ready to go again. I ended up using a steering wheel puller for GM cars on it. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
My 82 300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The banjo fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not leaking. Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no boost until 3-4,000 rpm and then I get about 6 psi max. I don't see any obvious leaks in the intake or exhaust and I can hear the turbo turning. Any guesses on probable cause? I'm wondering if the waste gate is somehow suck open. I have noticed jerky boost at high power settings (boost cuts in and out near max power) in the past so I'm wondering if the waste gate may be sticking. And If it is a sticky waste gate ... what's the cure? Thanks Scott Ritchey Kittrell NC 1982 300SD 220K 1979 300TD 350K = -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: winmail.dat Type: application/ms-tnef Size: 1776 bytes Desc: not available Url : http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/20060= 512/0788de66/winmail.bin
[MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited
Forgive me, Marshall Field, as I know this doesn't give you any information on the topic you asked about, but: Your question regarding window switches reminded me of an episode on that show Real Housewives of Orange County. One of the families' daughter gets in her couple-of-year-old Mercedes coupe and tries to operate the window switch, and it's broken. She whines like a six year old: I need a new car! I always get hand-me-downs! Incidently, her mom also drives a Mercedes coupe, and at least one other character on the show does as well. This sort of speaks (indirectly) to the issue that was being talked about a few days ago on the list. The issue of new Mercedes vs. old was brought up. I guess this encapsulates most of the reason I don't really want a new Mercedes. It seems to be just sort of a generic, overly common car that folks buy because they are in a certain slot in society. The last few times I have gone out to California, I noticed that the freeways are crawling with them. And just very recently, I've noticed that that trend is finally hitting here in little ol' Rochester, MN. I get the feeling that 85% of the drivers of these new machines could just as likely have wound up in a Lexus or an Acura. I prefer to have something that you have to want to have - something that you couldn't have accidentally. Don't misunderstand, I know that there are a lot of folks that have new Mercedes' who are actually enthusiasts, and I'm not trying to step on their toes (though I think I did). Brian 83 240D
Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters
Zoltan Finks wrote: So, when using the primer pump, you just pump 'til it begins to leak out onto your hands? If not, how do you know when the job is done? No, if it leaks you need to replace the pump. It's been a little while, but if I remember right I heard air hissing at the bleeder until the system was primed. You'll hear a change in the sound, at any rate. And what would happen if one didn't use the hand pump at all, and just tried to start it. I assume they'd get no start, but would they royally mess the system up in the process? You wouldn't mess anything up. It would start -- eventually. It might take more than one battery's worth of cranking, though. The primer pump is kind of a convenience, actually...VWs don't have it, and depending on how worn the injector pump is it can take quite a while to get one started after running out of fuel. David Brodbeck '83 300D Turbo
Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
In a message dated 5/11/2006 9:55:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My 82 300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The banjo fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not leaking. Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no boost until 3-4,000 rpm and then I get about 6 psi max. I don't see any obvious leaks in the intake or exhaust and I can hear the turbo turning. Any guesses on probable cause? I'm wondering if the waste gate is somehow suck open. I have noticed jerky boost at high power settings (boost cuts in and out near max power) in the past so I'm wondering if the waste gate may be sticking. And If it is a sticky waste gate ... what's the cure? Scott, #!. Look for loose nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the head, much pressure can be lost here. #2 Disconnect the single wire going to the pressure sensor on the intake manifold. It sounds like it may be defective and is cutting off your boost signal way too soon. You can drive it like that for testing purposes. #3. Run the boost sense line direct from the banjo to the ALDA, teeing into it right at the ALDA to verify the boost signal is getting to the ALDA. #4. Remove the U shaped pipe from the filter to the turbo so you can reach in and give the nose of the turbo a spin with your fingers. It won't spin much but should feel free, with no roughness. Wiggle the shaft side to side to see if you can make the impeller touch the housing. Some play is acceptable. Look for FOD, foreign object damage, on the parts of the impeller you can see. #5. If all looks good, adjust the screw on the top of the ALDA about 1 1/2 turns CCW to add more fuel, which will add more boost, which will add more fuel, etc. #6. Get back to the list with your findings. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 142 K miles
[MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt? The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side one does not squirt. Wondering if I need to unplug the hose from the offending squirter and see if it will flow at that point? What else? How do these things go bad (the actual squirters - assuming that's the problem). Or could it be the motor that powers the deal? Brian 83 240D
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Sounds like you got a blockage. The squirters both work off the same motor. Or perhaps you have a cracked/broken hose. Hendrik who hates cleaning squirters - Original Message - From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 4:58 PM Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt? The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side one does not squirt. Wondering if I need to unplug the hose from the offending squirter and see if it will flow at that point? What else? How do these things go bad (the actual squirters - assuming that's the problem). Or could it be the motor that powers the deal? Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 268.5.5/333 - Release Date: 5/05/2006
Re: [MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited
Brian, I'm with you 100%. I cannot stand to 'follow the crowd', I'd much rather reach my own conclusion/bias. I don't know if this is a human condition or not, I prefer to think of it as great American Rugged Individualism. Making biodiesel appeals to me for the same reason; nothing to do with political correctness or saving the planet, everything to do with being self-reliant and economical and enjoying the fruits of my labor unhindered by overbearing government (he says as he sits in uniform sucking at Mother Navy's tit with NSA probably reading every word of this email) :) Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 1:34 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited Forgive me, Marshall Field, as I know this doesn't give you any information on the topic you asked about, but: Your question regarding window switches reminded me of an episode on that show Real Housewives of Orange County. One of the families' daughter gets in her couple-of-year-old Mercedes coupe and tries to operate the window switch, and it's broken. She whines like a six year old: I need a new car! I always get hand-me-downs! Incidently, her mom also drives a Mercedes coupe, and at least one other character on the show does as well. This sort of speaks (indirectly) to the issue that was being talked about a few days ago on the list. The issue of new Mercedes vs. old was brought up. I guess this encapsulates most of the reason I don't really want a new Mercedes. It seems to be just sort of a generic, overly common car that folks buy because they are in a certain slot in society. The last few times I have gone out to California, I noticed that the freeways are crawling with them. And just very recently, I've noticed that that trend is finally hitting here in little ol' Rochester, MN. I get the feeling that 85% of the drivers of these new machines could just as likely have wound up in a Lexus or an Acura. I prefer to have something that you have to want to have - something that you couldn't have accidentally. Don't misunderstand, I know that there are a lot of folks that have new Mercedes' who are actually enthusiasts, and I'm not trying to step on their toes (though I think I did). Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] W140
I've heard this said about 111's, 107's, 123 coupes, etc. etc. Some even brag about hand assembled AMG engines (which is true). Anyone know the definitive official authorized 'legal in all 50 states' version? Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Loren Faeth Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 11:11 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] W140 snip the 126 was the last of the hand fitted Mercedes. And the Long model is that much nicer. snip
Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters
Zoltan, No, you're not being naïve. Good judgement comes from exerience, experience comes from bad judgement. I think that this procedure is one that all responsible MB diesel operators should know how to do, so that when a clogged filter episode occurs, they are not stranded helplessly on the side of the road. The hand pump only primes the fuel circuit in the IP, so that when you crank, the main fuel pump is primed to deliver fuel to the delivery valves and hence to the injectors. As discussed, if your hand pump leaks, it probably already is introducing air into the system, and needs to be replaced. Some loosen the top bolt on the main fuel filter mount while pumping, to allow air to exit there, and tighten it up when fuel starts to come out. You should hear a change in sound when the circuit is primed, and the action may get a little stiffer as well. Air in the system will not harm anything, but will make the car difficult or impossible to start, and so indirectly you might cause harm by draining your battery and using the starter excessively (could overheat it if you crank for longer than a minute or give proper cooling off time between attempts). Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 12:25 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters I guess I didn't stop to think: Am I being naive by not being more trepidacious about introducing air into the fuel system by changing the filters? I assumed I'd have to use the hand primer pump to get fuel up to the IP, or injectors (you can see my lack of understanding here). But is it really a difficult undertaking - the filter changing process - due to the air in the system? I was planning on just pouring fuel from a can into the spin-on filter. So, when using the primer pump, you just pump 'til it begins to leak out onto your hands? If not, how do you know when the job is done? And what would happen if one didn't use the hand pump at all, and just tried to start it. I assume they'd get no start, but would they royally mess the system up in the process? This is why I LOVED it when I installed an electric fuel pump on my big block, and chucked the manual one completely - and put a steel plate over its place on the block. No matter what I did, I could just turn on that trusty little pump, and I'd have fuel at the carbs in a few seconds. Brian 83 240D Curt intimated: I went a long time before I trusted myself to replace the fuel filters in my 240D, usedta pay my Indy to do it. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Brian, Most likely there are deposits in the hoses and/or squirters, and occasionally the one-way valve fails. Take apart the lines and blow them out with low pressure air, and use a fine pin or wire to clean out the squirters. A pin can also be used to aim them. In the last issue of 'The Star' magazine, Stu Ritter explained how to maintain the system, including the diagrams for how to aim the squirters. Apparently there is even an MB tool that mounts to the squirter hole and has a telescoping end, so that you can very quickly adjust them for proper spray pattern. I think that I'll ask for one for Christmas Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 3:29 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt? The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side one does not squirt. Wondering if I need to unplug the hose from the offending squirter and see if it will flow at that point? What else? How do these things go bad (the actual squirters - assuming that's the problem). Or could it be the motor that powers the deal? Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters
I found that on the 190D, removing the main vacuum line from the vac. pump was required to get clearance to the main filter. On install, I positioned new under its mount, then used a hose to fill it with diesel before I tightened it up. Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Curt Raymond Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 9:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters I went a long time before I trusted myself to replace the fuel filters in my 240D, usedta pay my Indy to do it. Now I've done them in both the 240D and my 190D, the 240D is MUCH easier! Get Rusty to send you a can of diesel purge or pickup a can of PowerService Diesel Kleen to fill the filter with. I didn't when I changed the filter on my 240D and it took forever to fill it with the little hand pump. On the powersteering I use ATF and drain the housing every time I change the oil. once a year I change the filter which is down in the bottom held down by a spring. I use Mobil 1 ATF, a quart will last a couple changes doing it that way, I figure for $6 I'll be a bigshot. When I got my 190D the powersteering pump made a little noise when it was cold but thats totally gone now after doing it just once. I expect that just changing it would have fixed the sound but I figure every bit helps. -Curt '85 190D Dory 238kmi Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 01:49:13 -0500 From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Bear with me, I won't delve into brands and such quag. But do have a few basic questions. It's going to be the first time I'll change fluids and filters on the 240D since finally taking possession of it. 1) How often do I change the fuel filters? I know - it depends. But the thing is from Arizona, so dry climate - probably not much moisture-related problems in tank/lines? The fuel filters were changed at the time of engine replacement (back in March, and some 2,000 mi. ago). It has the clear fuel filter, but I don't suppose anything worthwhile can be told by looking at that? There are actually a couple of small black bits in there. 2) Power Steering Fluid: I'm sure it has not been changed in a long time if ever (well, I don't know that for sure). Question is: The manual says to use ATF. So go ahead and use ATF, even though Rusty's site sells specific power steering fluid? What's the recommended deal here? And if ATF, use Dexron II, or Dexron III? So forgive the basic questions that you've heard a hundred times before. But help me out here. Brian 83 240D - Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Engine Oil Evacuation, was: Rear Diff Fluid
Brian, Mighty-Vac is too small for engine oil evacuation. There is a device brand name Top Sider that is very nice for about $40 or so. Cheaper routes: 1) If you have a vacuum cleaner, make a vacuum chamber (to catch the oil) from a 5 gallon bucket or some such, and get some really stiff plastic hose from hardware store (I think 5/8 inch outside diameter? Can't recall now, measure your dipstick hole inside diameter). Make one small hole in lid for the tubing to enter and go about half way down into bucket (keep hole small as possible - needs to be tight to develop vacuum), make another hole just smaller than vacuum hose, so that vacuum hose makes seal on top of lid. Cost of this will depend on what you have around the house, I think that I spent a few dollars for the tubing and used an empty cat litter container for the vacuum chamber. One fellow converted an old propane tank as vacuum chamber, added fittings for vacuum pump and and connection for air compressor; first he'd evacuate the chamber with vacuum pump, then attach line to dipstick tube and suck out oil, then pressurize the chamber with air compressor and then drain chamber with air pressure. I intend to follow this example once I buy a vacuum pump. 2) Visit your local marine goods store; they usually stock one or two different devices for this job; I've seen hand drill powered pumps, and small electric motor powered pumps (12v), price ranges vary from $20 and up. 3) I have an old sump pump that my father gave me, 115 VAC and designed to pump anything. I rigged up connections for my tubing, this pumps out the oil in about 1.5 minutes but it is loud. Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: Zoltan Finks [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:13 PM To: Dillon, Meade LCDR Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid Yes! I was going to look into the sucking method of oil change. I did buy a mighty-vac some time ago, but haven't looked at it yet. Brian 83 240D On 5/11/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yes, same procedure for checking oil level and filling in. Hazet makes a really nice wrench that has the hex bit at one end and 13mm six point at other end for oil drain plug. If you plan to do all your own oil changes, this is a really nice wrench to have, cost is about $30 I believe. I remove engine oil by suction (MB approved, removes more oil and I don't have to crawl under the car) so I don't use the oil drain plug end of the wrench, put the hex key end is really nice to have for those plugs on the tranny and diff. Change interval is not specified in the maintenance sheets (attached, will be stripped from list copy). Auto trans fluid/filter interval is 30k miles, so to be conservative I'd use same for manual trans. Differential oil and power steering fluid should probably be changed every 60k or maybe at 90k, MB does not specify a change interval. Will also depend on your driving duty - severe duty (heavy loads and/or dusty conditions/poor roads) would require shorter change intervals. Tranny and diff level should be checked every 15k miles. Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 3:05 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] Rear Diff Fluid Gotta ask too: On the rear differential, when checking the fluid, is it a matter of pulling the plug out and sticking a pinkie finger in there to feel around; and when filling, is it a matter of filling 'til it begins to run out of the hole? This is the method on what I grew up on - American Iron - but I am just making sure it's that simple with the German stuff too. Same question applies to the manual trannie. Same check/fill procedure? AND How often should this oil be changed? Brian
Re: [MBZ] Trannie Flush Technique - OK for MB???
Excellent, thanks Marshall. Changing fluid/filter on my 'new' 124.193 is going to be one of the first jobs I do next weekend. I also have a new thermostat (preventative measure install) and coolant - should be fun. Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marshall Booth Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 12:24 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Trannie Flush Technique - OK for MB??? Dillon, Meade LCDR wrote: Dieselvolk, Anyone know if this technique of flushing is approved for our cars? NO, it's NOT approved and is unwise UNLESS you want to try it before replacing a transmission that is failing (it MIGHT flush out something that's causing a problem, but that's unlikely). But the Mercedes transmission is designed so that the crud does usually end up in the pan and the filter catches it before it's recirculated back thru the transmission. The primary purpose of the flush devices was to allow a complete fluid change (both sump and torque converter) in transmissions that were NOT designed for complete oil removal. I've read the promotional and sales pitches as well as white papers on the methodology from several sources. It is a satisfactory technique for most older American cars (I have seen no papers less than 10 years old) but may not be worth the added cost over conventional routine regular transmission service. At least one study purported to show that on some transmissions, the flush service was INFERIOR. Mercedes included a torque converter drain. The flush was designed so the pan didn't need to come off - the device was hooked up, the flush performed and the device disconnected. Very quick and a money maker for the shop - UNLESS they also needed to remove the pan afterward to change the filter (which would be necessary in a Mercedes transmission) and then refill the transmission - most shops would do that. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OK, WTF? The pepto is back
On May 10, 2006, at 7:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Is there anyway I can check a radiator while its out of the car to see if its leaking fluid into the tranny cooler portion of it? Plug one hole and put vacuum or pressure to the other hole. Mity-Vac anyone? Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] W140
On Thu, 11 May 2006 23:37:16 -0400, you wrote:
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W140
From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 23:37:16 -0400
Are there any common expensive maintenance items to look out for with an 87
300SDL?
Thanks
-Dave Walton
94S350, 99E300
From my limited experience.
My 19 year old 300SDL should has had the following replaced/serviced
to date.
1) Sun Roof issues with the Angles Budget $850 {not done yet)
2) Radiator, Water pump RR Budget $300 for parts
3) Master Cylinder, Calipers, Hoses, Rotors all around Budget $400
for Parts
4) Bilsteins Shocks Budget $330 Parts
5) Front Seat Springs and Pads Budget $200/Side
6) Exhaust System Complete Budget $300
7) New Lifters Budget $1200
8) Rear Suspension rubber was about $150.
Car presently needs paint and sunroof repair. It is a very good road
car!
--
Regards,
Peter T. Arnold
1987 300SDL 24KMI
1995 F-250 PowerChoke 19Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt? Many times. The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side one does not squirt. Crud build-up in the nozzles. Remove the lines, clean them out, and back-flush the offending nozzle with compressed air. A needle is useful to poke out the crud. You'll probably need to re-aim it afterwards, the same needle is useful for that. Make _sure_ the lines are cleaned of all crud, or it'll just plug back up again. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Brian - My car had the same type of problem. Turns out that the line from the tank was crimped when the hood closed. You might not be as lucky, but do check the tube routing . BillR 1981 300SD EM 275k -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 3:29 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt? The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side one does not squirt. Wondering if I need to unplug the hose from the offending squirter and see if it will flow at that point? What else? How do these things go bad (the actual squirters - assuming that's the problem). Or could it be the motor that powers the deal? Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
On Fri, 12 May 2006 05:50:11 -0700, you wrote: Problem can be corrected if you use Mobile1 windshield washer fluid. Happy Moose Day -- Regards, Peter T. Arnold 1987 300SDL 24KMI 1995 F-250 PowerChoke 194Kmi 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!
Re: [MBZ] W140
First is determining whether the head is cracked. I had to replace the belt tensioning assembly and vacuum pump. Nothing else unusual for an MB of this age. On 5/11/06, dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Are there any common expensive maintenance items to look out for with an 87 300SDL? -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
Jim I'll check the exhaust manifold nuts (#1), although I didn't notice any blow by under the hood with motor running. Still need to do but I'll need to pull the air cleaner, I think. I don't think it's the pressure switch (although that could account for the jerky boost I noticed in the past) because the pressure was low right out of the manifold. I've checked the other things you mentioned (except adjusting the ALDA) and it all looked OK. The turbo spins nicely and coasts several seconds after I spin by hand (#4) I bypassed the crossover switch (#3) for testing and I'll road-test under load as soon as I get a longer piece of hose for the gage. I'll report back when I know something new. Scott Ritchey Kittrell NC 1982 300SD 220K 1979 300TD 350K -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 2:12 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost In a message dated 5/11/2006 9:55:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My 82 300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The banjo fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not leaking. Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no boost until 3-4,000 rpm and then I get about 6 psi max. I don't see any obvious leaks in the intake or exhaust and I can hear the turbo turning. Any guesses on probable cause? I'm wondering if the waste gate is somehow suck open. I have noticed jerky boost at high power settings (boost cuts in and out near max power) in the past so I'm wondering if the waste gate may be sticking. And If it is a sticky waste gate ... what's the cure? Scott, #!. Look for loose nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the head, much pressure can be lost here. #2 Disconnect the single wire going to the pressure sensor on the intake manifold. It sounds like it may be defective and is cutting off your boost signal way too soon. You can drive it like that for testing purposes. #3. Run the boost sense line direct from the banjo to the ALDA, teeing into it right at the ALDA to verify the boost signal is getting to the ALDA. #4. Remove the U shaped pipe from the filter to the turbo so you can reach in and give the nose of the turbo a spin with your fingers. It won't spin much but should feel free, with no roughness. Wiggle the shaft side to side to see if you can make the impeller touch the housing. Some play is acceptable. Look for FOD, foreign object damage, on the parts of the impeller you can see. #5. If all looks good, adjust the screw on the top of the ALDA about 1 1/2 turns CCW to add more fuel, which will add more boost, which will add more fuel, etc. #6. Get back to the list with your findings. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 142 K miles ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters
I guess I didn't stop to think: Am I being naive by not being more trepidacious about introducing air into the fuel system by changing the filters? It's no big deal. I assumed I'd have to use the hand primer pump to get fuel up to the IP, or injectors (you can see my lack of understanding here). But is it really a difficult undertaking - the filter changing process - due to the air in the system? I was planning on just pouring fuel from a can into the spin-on filter. That just saves time in the manual pumping phase. So, when using the primer pump, you just pump 'til it begins to leak out onto your hands? If not, how do you know when the job is done? You can hear/feel the change as the system fills with fuel. Leaking is a sign that the pump is not in good shape. But... The gasket on the screw-top pumps that leaks fuel is _not_ the same gasket that can leak air into the system. The usual extrapolation is that once one is shot then so is the other, but that's not entirely true. Also, the air seal can be replaced, I made a new one with a sheet of BUNA rubber, a 3/4 hole punch, and scissors. The pump has to be removed to do this, the rings slip on and off over the engine end of the pump's body. And what would happen if one didn't use the hand pump at all, and just tried to start it. I assume they'd get no start, but would they royally mess the system up in the process? Lots of cranking required. Such as on the 60X motors that don't have a hand primer pump. This is why I LOVED it when I installed an electric fuel pump on my big block, and chucked the manual one completely - and put a steel plate over its place on the block. No matter what I did, I could just turn on that trusty little pump, and I'd have fuel at the carbs in a few seconds. I went through great pain to restore the mechanical pump on my 250C. I didn't like the electric pump, or the idea of it (there was no cutoff circuitry) since I'd been forced to put one place when the mechanical pump failed. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Nothing better than Fully Synthetic Water. None of that crappy Class I Cracked stock water pretending to be synthetic! On 5/12/06, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Fri, 12 May 2006 05:50:11 -0700, you wrote: Problem can be corrected if you use Mobile1 windshield washer fluid. Happy Moose Day -- Regards, Peter T. Arnold 1987 300SDL 24KMI 1995 F-250 PowerChoke 194Kmi 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is! ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
The squirters will work better after you fill the tires with Fina's pink air --- On 5/12/06, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Nothing better than Fully Synthetic Water. None of that crappy Class I Cracked stock water pretending to be synthetic! -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] W140
On the other hand, if the 126 ever came with the 3.5L engine, maybe I should look for one of those with a replacement engine Yes, a new-engined 350SDL would be a nice car. IMHO not substantially better than the 86/87 variety, but it _will_ be less aged overall. There are some interior cosmetic changes. Are there any common expensive maintenance items to look out for with an 87 300SDL? New radiator? New head! These, like all 60X engines, will not tolerate overheating. Recovery can be pay-n-full. We have had bouts of overheating, but so far have been lucky. The car is on its second head and radiator (fortunately during a PO's tenure). -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] W140
Not taking into account the more electronic issues, the 140 is WAY more car than the 126. I love my 126's but I sure miss my old 140. They are really one hell of a nice car. Mine had the evaporator problem but that was it. Loren Faeth wrote: The 126 is way more car than the 140 could ever hope to be. That is why I keep the 87 SDL. It is a really nice one. I only drive it a little each summer. But if I ever wear out my 86, I have the 87 ready to go. the 126 was the last of the hand fitted Mercedes. And the Long model is that much nicer. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617
Yea, I just swapped it from another engine in the garage, but you need a puller to get it off the engine. I used my steering wheel puller for GM vehicles. OK Don wrote: SO make one - you know, like you made the spreader when you changed the B2 in the car -- Piece of angle iron with a hole in the middle. bolt through the hole, nut on the side facing the engine. Clamp the angle iron to the balancer. hold the nut with a wrench, turn the bolt with another wrench - push against the big canter bold head - off comes the balancer. BUT - if you have another engine sitting in the garage - just swap them! -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] W140
yea, seems they say about every year was the last year for the hand built ones. OK Don wrote: What was hand fitted on the 126? I've heard over the years that several different models were each the last model with hands laid on them during assembly - don't know what to believe. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] W140
cracked head dave walton wrote: Are there any common expensive maintenance items to look out for with an 87 300SDL? Thanks -Dave Walton 94S350, 99E300 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] VIN check please
its at striplin.net btw Zoltan Finks wrote: Hmm. Shows how much I know. I'll have to check that list out. Brian -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Get a bread twist tie and strip off the paper or plastic, curve about an inch+half to about the radius of a quarter, and use this end to ream out the squirter nozzle (the curve helps it slide in all the way). You can use a push-pin to aim the nozzle -- these things appear to be little balls with holes in them that rotate around in the black plastic housing. Also clear out the hoses and such. Leave this expensive tool in your car and use it every week or two. The blue wsw fluid seems to evaporate and leave crusty blue stuff in the nozzles and hoses, clogging them up. Use Mobil1 synthetic wsw fluid mixed with German water (this comes in brown and green bottles, can be found at many grocery stores in civilized locales). Pour in the wsw washer fluid and drink the German water while doing the procedure, and you should be OK. --R Zoltan Finks wrote: Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt? The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side one does not squirt. Wondering if I need to unplug the hose from the offending squirter and see if it will flow at that point? What else? How do these things go bad (the actual squirters - assuming that's the problem). Or could it be the motor that powers the deal? Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Mounting rear bumper rubber: 123 vs. 108/109/111
The best way to do it is to bend it at the middle so the channel opens up wide and fit that onto the bumper, then do the hammer trick the rest of the way. Luther Gulseth wrote: Soapy water for lube. Works like a charm, can almost slide it on by hand. On Thu, 11 May 2006 22:21:01 -0500, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I felt like a real champion when I discovered how easy it was to mount the rubber strip on the rear bumper of my son's 1985 300D. Just whack it with a mallet the length of the rubber and the strip pops into place on the steel flange of the bumper. On my late111 coupe, however, I had no such luck and had to laboriously lube and thread the rubber the length of the bumper. When I tried to bash it into place it just made the car vibrate and had no effect. Is there a shortcut? Both the 123 and 111 or 108/109 rubber strips are similar in that they are designed to inerlock with the steel part of the bumper... 1983 300TD 1970 280SE 3.5 W111 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
pull the air cleaner, I think. I don't think it's the pressure switch (although that could account for the jerky boost I noticed in the past) because the pressure was low right out of the manifold. It's not so simple as that! The system is a positive feedback one, and if there is no additional fuel to go with the (initial) modest boost, full boost will _not_ be generated! The pressure switch is absolutely capable of blocking full boost from being generated. That, after all, is its main purposes in life. Sudden failures, if not attributable to obvious mechanical breakage, are almost always electrical or small-hose (control) plumbing related. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
I thought Heinekin was the preferred fluid for both windshield washers and operators? On 5/12/06, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Get a bread twist tie and strip off the paper or plastic, curve about an inch+half to about the radius of a quarter, and use this end to ream out the squirter nozzle (the curve helps it slide in all the way). You can use a push-pin to aim the nozzle -- these things appear to be little balls with holes in them that rotate around in the black plastic housing. Also clear out the hoses and such. Leave this expensive tool in your car and use it every week or two. The blue wsw fluid seems to evaporate and leave crusty blue stuff in the nozzles and hoses, clogging them up. Use Mobil1 synthetic wsw fluid mixed with German water (this comes in brown and green bottles, can be found at many grocery stores in civilized locales). Pour in the wsw washer fluid and drink the German water while doing the procedure, and you should be OK. --R Zoltan Finks wrote: Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt? The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side one does not squirt. Wondering if I need to unplug the hose from the offending squirter and see if it will flow at that point? What else? How do these things go bad (the actual squirters - assuming that's the problem). Or could it be the motor that powers the deal? Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] I am on crank
If you sent it I probably got it. I will be responding to parts questions over the weekend. archer wrote: Kaleb: Did you get my order with the question about payment? I'm re-sending it to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D - - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 7:04 PM Subject: [MBZ] I am on crank Well I got the balancer/pulley pulled off the parts engine and installed on the 85 300D, so its now ready to go again. I ended up using a steering wheel puller for GM cars on it. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
Rather than disconnecting the wire going to the overboost valve, you will want to just bypass it for the time being to see if that is the problem. If its plugged up(which most of them are) unplugging the wire wont help. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 5/11/2006 9:55:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My 82 300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The banjo fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not leaking. Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no boost until 3-4,000 rpm and then I get about 6 psi max. I don't see any obvious leaks in the intake or exhaust and I can hear the turbo turning. Any guesses on probable cause? I'm wondering if the waste gate is somehow suck open. I have noticed jerky boost at high power settings (boost cuts in and out near max power) in the past so I'm wondering if the waste gate may be sticking. And If it is a sticky waste gate ... what's the cure? Scott, #!. Look for loose nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the head, much pressure can be lost here. #2 Disconnect the single wire going to the pressure sensor on the intake manifold. It sounds like it may be defective and is cutting off your boost signal way too soon. You can drive it like that for testing purposes. #3. Run the boost sense line direct from the banjo to the ALDA, teeing into it right at the ALDA to verify the boost signal is getting to the ALDA. #4. Remove the U shaped pipe from the filter to the turbo so you can reach in and give the nose of the turbo a spin with your fingers. It won't spin much but should feel free, with no roughness. Wiggle the shaft side to side to see if you can make the impeller touch the housing. Some play is acceptable. Look for FOD, foreign object damage, on the parts of the impeller you can see. #5. If all looks good, adjust the screw on the top of the ALDA about 1 1/2 turns CCW to add more fuel, which will add more boost, which will add more fuel, etc. #6. Get back to the list with your findings. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 142 K miles ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OK, WTF? The pepto is back
good idea dude. John Berryman wrote: On May 10, 2006, at 7:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Is there anyway I can check a radiator while its out of the car to see if its leaking fluid into the tranny cooler portion of it? Plug one hole and put vacuum or pressure to the other hole. Mity-Vac anyone? Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] My W140 gets a clean bill of health
The local MB dealer offered a FREE check up so I made an appointment. Everything was running ok but I just figured I would see what he could find wrong, well he did The rear fog light was out. They just exchanged the bulb with the other side since doesnt need a double filament on that side. They did mention I was getting close to brake pads but that was all. Oh yes, they did fill my little squirt bottle. Took a ride in the new E class Diesel while I was there, peppy little thing. To the gentleman who compared the 126 with the 140. I have had both. The 126 is a great car, easy to work on, easy on the pocketbook and a classy looker. The W140 has more junk to fail and not as easy to work on, but when I put my foot to the floor it WILL pin you back in your seat, unknown in any Diesel I have owned to this point. It does give me 30 MPG on the road (800 mile legs) and a real pleasure to drive. I have spent 33 straight hours in the 140 and came out rested, a real pleasure to drive. True, I have had everything replaced, except for the rearview mirror and fuel cap, BUT after that being said A GREAT car :-) Walt Lasher Seattle 1992 S350
[MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
My 82 300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The banjo fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not leaking. Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no boost until 3-4,000 rpm and then I get about 6 psi max. I don't see any obvious leaks in the intake or exhaust and I can hear the turbo turning. Any guesses on probable cause? I'm wondering if the waste gate is somehow suck open. I have noticed jerky boost at high power settings (boost cuts in and out near max power) in the past so I'm wondering if the waste gate may be sticking. And If it is a sticky waste gate ... what's the cure? Thanks Scott Ritchey Kittrell NC 1982 300SD 220K 1979 300TD 350K = -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: winmail.dat Type: application/ms-tnef Size: 1772 bytes Desc: not available Url : http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/20060= 511/e53b270e/winmail.bin
Re: [MBZ] OK, WTF? The pepto is back
On May 12, 2006, at 9:19 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: good idea dude. A direct result of using one's head for more than a hat rack. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Engine Oil Evacuation, was: Rear Diff Fluid
I use an old 2-3 gallon helium tank. Removed the little cap they have on the tanks, and opened it up with a punch to accept a brass barb. Threaded it in and sealed it with JB Weld. Then I cut off the top of the valve mechanisim because inside the stem is a 1/4 pipe thread that's not NPT, but with enough pipe thread tape it seals well. Then I installed a 1/4 air hose quick connect and use my handy $16.99 harbor freight air pressure to vacuum and some hose with a variable air regulator before the vacuum pump so it does not suck too hard. To empty the tank, I apply positive air pressure to the 1/4 fitting and force the oil out into a collection container. I also use the vacuum pump or PAP to collect or move vegoil around from barrel to barrel. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92475 Luther ~Brian, ~ ~Mighty-Vac is too small for engine oil evacuation. There is a device ~brand name Top Sider that is very nice for about $40 or so. Cheaper ~routes: ~ ~1) If you have a vacuum cleaner, make a vacuum chamber (to catch the ~oil) from a 5 gallon bucket or some such, and get some really stiff ~plastic hose from hardware store (I think 5/8 inch outside diameter? ~Can't recall now, measure your dipstick hole inside diameter). Make one ~small hole in lid for the tubing to enter and go about half way down ~into bucket (keep hole small as possible - needs to be tight to develop ~vacuum), make another hole just smaller than vacuum hose, so that vacuum ~hose makes seal on top of lid. Cost of this will depend on what you ~have around the house, I think that I spent a few dollars for the tubing ~and used an empty cat litter container for the vacuum chamber. One ~fellow converted an old propane tank as vacuum chamber, added fittings ~for vacuum pump and and connection for air compressor; first he'd ~evacuate the chamber with vacuum pump, then attach line to dipstick tube ~and suck out oil, then pressurize the chamber with air compressor and ~then drain chamber with air pressure. I intend to follow this example ~once I buy a vacuum pump. ~ ~2) Visit your local marine goods store; they usually stock one or two ~different devices for this job; I've seen hand drill powered pumps, and ~small electric motor powered pumps (12v), price ranges vary from $20 and ~up. ~ ~3) I have an old sump pump that my father gave me, 115 VAC and designed ~to pump anything. I rigged up connections for my tubing, this pumps out ~the oil in about 1.5 minutes but it is loud. ~ ~Very respectfully, ~/s/ ~Meade Dillon ~Charleston SC ~'87 300TD 287k miles ~'85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles ~'85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* ~ -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) '82 300CD (159,222 kmi) '82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Well, that's Dutch so not sure how it would interact. German beer is chemical free --R Levi Smith wrote: I thought Heinekin was the preferred fluid for both windshield washers and operators? On 5/12/06, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Get a bread twist tie and strip off the paper or plastic, curve about an inch+half to about the radius of a quarter, and use this end to ream out the squirter nozzle (the curve helps it slide in all the way). You can use a push-pin to aim the nozzle -- these things appear to be little balls with holes in them that rotate around in the black plastic housing. Also clear out the hoses and such. Leave this expensive tool in your car and use it every week or two. The blue wsw fluid seems to evaporate and leave crusty blue stuff in the nozzles and hoses, clogging them up. Use Mobil1 synthetic wsw fluid mixed with German water (this comes in brown and green bottles, can be found at many grocery stores in civilized locales). Pour in the wsw washer fluid and drink the German water while doing the procedure, and you should be OK. --R Zoltan Finks wrote: Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt? The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side one does not squirt. Wondering if I need to unplug the hose from the offending squirter and see if it will flow at that point? What else? How do these things go bad (the actual squirters - assuming that's the problem). Or could it be the motor that powers the deal? Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Ohh, well it sounded German to me, but I'm not culturally educated. Oh well. Do the Dutch and Germans get along? On 5/12/06, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well, that's Dutch so not sure how it would interact. German beer is chemical free --R Levi Smith wrote: I thought Heinekin was the preferred fluid for both windshield washers and operators? On 5/12/06, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Get a bread twist tie and strip off the paper or plastic, curve about an inch+half to about the radius of a quarter, and use this end to ream out the squirter nozzle (the curve helps it slide in all the way). You can use a push-pin to aim the nozzle -- these things appear to be little balls with holes in them that rotate around in the black plastic housing. Also clear out the hoses and such. Leave this expensive tool in your car and use it every week or two. The blue wsw fluid seems to evaporate and leave crusty blue stuff in the nozzles and hoses, clogging them up. Use Mobil1 synthetic wsw fluid mixed with German water (this comes in brown and green bottles, can be found at many grocery stores in civilized locales). Pour in the wsw washer fluid and drink the German water while doing the procedure, and you should be OK. --R Zoltan Finks wrote: Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt? The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side one does not squirt. Wondering if I need to unplug the hose from the offending squirter and see if it will flow at that point? What else? How do these things go bad (the actual squirters - assuming that's the problem). Or could it be the motor that powers the deal? Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
Sorry about this duplicate post, but I accidentally sent it from the wrong email account and then resent it from the account registered with this list. Jim and Kaleb: Thanks for inputs. I've bypassed the switchover valve but I need to get to a McParts store and get a long piece of tubing so I can monitor the boost under load. As Jim rightly points out, boost at fast idle may not mean much because the ALDA is not pumping in enough fuel to really spin the turbine. Also, the ALDA does not hold vacuum (a squeeze on the mitivac produces vacuum but it leaks down in less than a second) As I understand it, this may or may not be a problem. I don't have a good way to test the ALDA under positive pressure until I do a road test. I have a spare (used) ALDA somewhere if I can fins it. We recently moved from FL to NC and my cap parts are still quite disorganized. Last time I had these symptoms, the problem turned out to be a broken rubber flex hose where the stiff tubing connects to the switchover valve. I'm still hoping for something so simple. I'll report back when I know more. Scott Ritchey Kittrell NC 1982 300SD 220K 1979 300TD 350K -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott Ritchey Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 11:52 PM To: List Mercedes Subject: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost My 82 300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The banjo fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not leaking. Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no boost until 3-4,000 rpm and then I get about 6 psi max. I don't see any obvious leaks in the intake or exhaust and I can hear the turbo turning. Any guesses on probable cause? I'm wondering if the waste gate is somehow suck open. I have noticed jerky boost at high power settings (boost cuts in and out near max power) in the past so I'm wondering if the waste gate may be sticking. And If it is a sticky waste gate ... what's the cure? Thanks Scott Ritchey Kittrell NC 1982 300SD 220K 1979 300TD 350K -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: winmail.dat Type: application/ms-tnef Size: 1772 bytes Desc: not available Url : http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/20060511/e53 b270e/winmail.bin ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
On Fri, 12 May 2006 10:51:43 -0400, you wrote: Ohh, well it sounded German to me, but I'm not culturally educated. Oh well. Do the Dutch and Germans get along? They have been known to disagree concerning Beer and Borders. -- Regards, Peter T. Arnold 1987 300SDL 24KMI 1995 F-250 PowerChoke 194Kmi 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Yeah, but what about the important stuff like windshield squirters? Levi (: On 5/12/06, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Fri, 12 May 2006 10:51:43 -0400, you wrote: Ohh, well it sounded German to me, but I'm not culturally educated. Oh well. Do the Dutch and Germans get along? They have been known to disagree concerning Beer and Borders. -- Regards, Peter T. Arnold 1987 300SDL 24KMI 1995 F-250 PowerChoke 194Kmi 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is! ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617
Most auto parts store will loan or rent you one, especially autozone. Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 9:07 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] how to get the balancer/pulley off a 617 Yea, I just swapped it from another engine in the garage, but you need a puller to get it off the engine. I used my steering wheel puller for GM vehicles. OK Don wrote: SO make one - you know, like you made the spreader when you changed the B2 in the car -- Piece of angle iron with a hole in the middle. bolt through the hole, nut on the side facing the engine. Clamp the angle iron to the balancer. hold the nut with a wrench, turn the bolt with another wrench - push against the big canter bold head - off comes the balancer. BUT - if you have another engine sitting in the garage - just swap them! -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter, has degenerated
Yes, there was a time when the Dutch had large numbers of young German male undocumented migrants coming across their unsecured border to do work that the Dutch did not want to do, but I don't think getting a taste of their beer was a major factor in this migration though I am sure that it was a minor factor. Some of them did drive Benzes though, but many walked. The German government encouraged this practice for awhile until persuaded otherwise by world opinion. Now they all get along pretty well, and the border is not really much of an issue, but beer is still a point of contention among the cultural elite. It will be 5 o'clock in 7 hours, I think I will have to go adjust my squirters... --R (whose thirst for cultural education continues unabated) Peter T. Arnold wrote: On Fri, 12 May 2006 10:51:43 -0400, you wrote: Ohh, well it sounded German to me, but I'm not culturally educated. Oh well. Do the Dutch and Germans get along? They have been known to disagree concerning Beer and Borders. -- Regards, Peter T. Arnold 1987 300SDL 24KMI 1995 F-250 PowerChoke 194Kmi 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is! ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter, has degenerated
You know all this talk of squirters and beer has me thinking... Mine seem to be aimed a bit high, though at speed the wind throws the stuff onto the windshield. But perhaps they're meant to be aimed high, so that I can simply open the sunroof, and then my beer squirters can just shoot it on into the cabin for a refreshing drink. And of course the fact that they will only reach that far when stopped would solve the whole drinking and driving problem... (: Levi On 5/12/06, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yes, there was a time when the Dutch had large numbers of young German male undocumented migrants coming across their unsecured border to do work that the Dutch did not want to do, but I don't think getting a taste of their beer was a major factor in this migration though I am sure that it was a minor factor. Some of them did drive Benzes though, but many walked. The German government encouraged this practice for awhile until persuaded otherwise by world opinion. Now they all get along pretty well, and the border is not really much of an issue, but beer is still a point of contention among the cultural elite. It will be 5 o'clock in 7 hours, I think I will have to go adjust my squirters... --R (whose thirst for cultural education continues unabated) Peter T. Arnold wrote: On Fri, 12 May 2006 10:51:43 -0400, you wrote: Ohh, well it sounded German to me, but I'm not culturally educated. Oh well. Do the Dutch and Germans get along? They have been known to disagree concerning Beer and Borders. -- Regards, Peter T. Arnold 1987 300SDL 24KMI 1995 F-250 PowerChoke 194Kmi 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is! ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited
There's a great VW Passat commercial on TV that I saw on TW yesterday. As the guy drives along, the driver of each different car they pass screams out a different slogan, e.g. I EARN MORE MONEY THAN YOU!!, I AM INSECURE ABOUT MY MASCULINITY!!, GET OUT OF MY WAY BECAUSE I AM MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOU!!! I think the Mercedes driver was yelling about earning power... On 5/12/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Brian, I'm with you 100%. I cannot stand to 'follow the crowd', I'd much rather reach my own conclusion/bias. I don't know if this is a human condition or not, I prefer to think of it as great American Rugged Individualism. Making biodiesel appeals to me for the same reason; nothing to do with political correctness or saving the planet, everything to do with being self-reliant and economical and enjoying the fruits of my labor unhindered by overbearing government (he says as he sits in uniform sucking at Mother Navy's tit with NSA probably reading every word of this email) :) Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 1:34 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited Forgive me, Marshall Field, as I know this doesn't give you any information on the topic you asked about, but: Your question regarding window switches reminded me of an episode on that show Real Housewives of Orange County. One of the families' daughter gets in her couple-of-year-old Mercedes coupe and tries to operate the window switch, and it's broken. She whines like a six year old: I need a new car! I always get hand-me-downs! Incidently, her mom also drives a Mercedes coupe, and at least one other character on the show does as well. This sort of speaks (indirectly) to the issue that was being talked about a few days ago on the list. The issue of new Mercedes vs. old was brought up. I guess this encapsulates most of the reason I don't really want a new Mercedes. It seems to be just sort of a generic, overly common car that folks buy because they are in a certain slot in society. The last few times I have gone out to California, I noticed that the freeways are crawling with them. And just very recently, I've noticed that that trend is finally hitting here in little ol' Rochester, MN. I get the feeling that 85% of the drivers of these new machines could just as likely have wound up in a Lexus or an Acura. I prefer to have something that you have to want to have - something that you couldn't have accidentally. Don't misunderstand, I know that there are a lot of folks that have new Mercedes' who are actually enthusiasts, and I'm not trying to step on their toes (though I think I did). Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited
The recent year Passat's are VERY nice cars. Nicer than the current low end Mercedes IMHO. -Dave Walton 94S350, 99E300 On 5/12/06, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There's a great VW Passat commercial on TV that I saw on TW yesterday. As the guy drives along, the driver of each different car they pass screams out a different slogan, e.g. I EARN MORE MONEY THAN YOU!!, I AM INSECURE ABOUT MY MASCULINITY!!, GET OUT OF MY WAY BECAUSE I AM MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOU!!! I think the Mercedes driver was yelling about earning power... On 5/12/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Brian, I'm with you 100%. I cannot stand to 'follow the crowd', I'd much rather reach my own conclusion/bias. I don't know if this is a human condition or not, I prefer to think of it as great American Rugged Individualism. Making biodiesel appeals to me for the same reason; nothing to do with political correctness or saving the planet, everything to do with being self-reliant and economical and enjoying the fruits of my labor unhindered by overbearing government (he says as he sits in uniform sucking at Mother Navy's tit with NSA probably reading every word of this email) :) Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 1:34 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited Forgive me, Marshall Field, as I know this doesn't give you any information on the topic you asked about, but: Your question regarding window switches reminded me of an episode on that show Real Housewives of Orange County. One of the families' daughter gets in her couple-of-year-old Mercedes coupe and tries to operate the window switch, and it's broken. She whines like a six year old: I need a new car! I always get hand-me-downs! Incidently, her mom also drives a Mercedes coupe, and at least one other character on the show does as well. This sort of speaks (indirectly) to the issue that was being talked about a few days ago on the list. The issue of new Mercedes vs. old was brought up. I guess this encapsulates most of the reason I don't really want a new Mercedes. It seems to be just sort of a generic, overly common car that folks buy because they are in a certain slot in society. The last few times I have gone out to California, I noticed that the freeways are crawling with them. And just very recently, I've noticed that that trend is finally hitting here in little ol' Rochester, MN. I get the feeling that 85% of the drivers of these new machines could just as likely have wound up in a Lexus or an Acura. I prefer to have something that you have to want to have - something that you couldn't have accidentally. Don't misunderstand, I know that there are a lot of folks that have new Mercedes' who are actually enthusiasts, and I'm not trying to step on their toes (though I think I did). Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
Not to hijack your thread, but does anyone have advice in regard to the earlier version. My 76 115 300D does not squirt the windshield when I step on the doodad on the floor. Is it likely a blockage somewhere or is there a checkvalve gone bad or some such?? I know I am being lazy to ask rather than to go look but the older I get the lazier I become. If someone else already knows the most likely problem, I won't have to learn it by myself. Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Hendrik Riessen Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 4:32 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter Sounds like you got a blockage. The squirters both work off the same motor. Or perhaps you have a cracked/broken hose. Hendrik who hates cleaning squirters - Original Message - From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 4:58 PM Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt? The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side one does not squirt. Wondering if I need to unplug the hose from the offending squirter and see if it will flow at that point? What else? How do these things go bad (the actual squirters - assuming that's the problem). Or could it be the motor that powers the deal? Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 268.5.5/333 - Release Date: 5/05/2006 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
I checked my local Wal Mart but just like the Moblil 1 oil, they were out of the stuff I needed. (actually my Wal-Mart has the oil - they just want an arm and a leg for it these days) Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Peter T. Arnold Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 7:56 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter On Fri, 12 May 2006 05:50:11 -0700, you wrote: Problem can be corrected if you use Mobile1 windshield washer fluid. Happy Moose Day -- Regards, Peter T. Arnold 1987 300SDL 24KMI 1995 F-250 PowerChoke 194Kmi 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is! ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Washer Squirter
My 76 115 300D does not squirt the windshield when I step on the doodad on the floor. The usual problem is that the frog splits and gives you a nice foot bath. If that is not your problem, then it's just a blockage somewhere in the lines and it's a straightforward process to find and clear the blockage. -- Jim
[MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
I will apologize in advance for being even more off topic than usual, but I know of no other knowledge base broad enough to probably have an answer for me. I have had my constant companion IPAQ 5455 drop out of my pocket a few times and now the screen alignment is so far off it is not correctable, making the machine unable to do many of the more interesting things I used to do on it. It is sitting unused on my desk. Still connects to the PC and downloads fine. It does most of what it should but needs help. Does anyone do repairs on such things or know of a reliable source of repairs? I've not tried breaking into the thing as my electronics repair abilities seemed to max out prior to chips and printed circuits. Fun to take things apart but if it is not a loose wire I'm out of luck. Not too many tubes in this one. TIA. BillR Jacksonville FL 1981 300SD'EM' 275K Ipaq 5455 with bad alignment [EMAIL PROTECTED] for off list contact
[MBZ] 124 Glow Plug Difficutly
When I recently removed the intake manifold off my '95 E300D (124 with a 606 engine) , I changed the glow plugs. The front 3 plugs required hours of coaxing finessing and arm strength to get them out. And the new ones went in with similar difficulty. The new ones wrenched to specified torque with lots of thread still showing. The back 3 plugs came out with ease. And the new ones threaded all the way in by hand, then tightened normally with the torque wrench. Seems like I've read about the injector ports filling with carbon and causing these kinds of problem... Is my memory correct? What is the correct way to fix this problem? Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2 '85 300D '80 300TD
Re: [MBZ] OK, WTF? The pepto is back
Sounds like it a total trash out. I will give you 50 bucks for it. On 5/12/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On May 12, 2006, at 9:19 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: good idea dude. A direct result of using one's head for more than a hat rack. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- OK Richard 1987 300D 178k with miles and miles to go!!! Midwest City, Oklahoma
Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
Do you mean the screen is physically out of whack or electronically? If it is just twisted in the case (not sure how that could be) then sounds like you just need to open it up and realign it. If it is the screen image then I am not sure how that could be fixed (unless you whack it again) -- might need some major parts transplant, which would probably cost more than a new/used one. --R BillR wrote: I will apologize in advance for being even more off topic than usual, but I know of no other knowledge base broad enough to probably have an answer for me. I have had my constant companion IPAQ 5455 drop out of my pocket a few times and now the screen alignment is so far off it is not correctable, making the machine unable to do many of the more interesting things I used to do on it. It is sitting unused on my desk. Still connects to the PC and downloads fine. It does most of what it should but needs help. Does anyone do repairs on such things or know of a reliable source of repairs? I've not tried breaking into the thing as my electronics repair abilities seemed to max out prior to chips and printed circuits. Fun to take things apart but if it is not a loose wire I'm out of luck. Not too many tubes in this one. TIA. BillR Jacksonville FL 1981 300SD'EM' 275K Ipaq 5455 with bad alignment [EMAIL PROTECTED] for off list contact ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Bio-diesel Made from Sewage
My daughter found this report, complete with witty commentary. It's pretty good. http://science.slashdot.org/science/06/05/12/0215234.shtml /A New Zealand company has successfully turned sewage into modern-day gold. New Zealand Herald is reporting that a Marlborough-based Aquaflow Bionomic yesterday announced it had produced its first sample of bio-diesel fuel from algae in sewage ponds http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/story.cfm?c_id=1ObjectID=10381404. It is believed to be the world's first commercial production of bio-diesel from 'wild' algae outside the laboratory - and the company expects to be producing at the rate of at least one million litres of the fuel each year from Blenheim by April. One wag remarked: /I can already think of a slogon- Waste makes haste -- meaning he probably has not driven a 240D. --R
Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
Odd thing this. Physically it seems fine, and the screen is where it should be, but it just will not align properly and always fails that part of the self test. Some programs with options across the top cannot be accessed; often you need to press outside of whatever spot you are supposed to press to get a result. Some other Items seem to work just as they should. I think it is electronic - have even resorted to a couple of firm taps from the opposite direction of the way it smacked into the cement with no result I could see. The cost thing is something I fear is true, that to replace would be cheaper than repair. It does me no good as is, so am willing to entrust it to someone with some interest or experience with these things. BillR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 1:18 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455 Do you mean the screen is physically out of whack or electronically? If it is just twisted in the case (not sure how that could be) then sounds like you just need to open it up and realign it. If it is the screen image then I am not sure how that could be fixed (unless you whack it again) -- might need some major parts transplant, which would probably cost more than a new/used one. --R BillR wrote: I will apologize in advance for being even more off topic than usual, but I know of no other knowledge base broad enough to probably have an answer for me. I have had my constant companion IPAQ 5455 drop out of my pocket a few times and now the screen alignment is so far off it is not correctable, making the machine unable to do many of the more interesting things I used to do on it. It is sitting unused on my desk. Still connects to the PC and downloads fine. It does most of what it should but needs help. Does anyone do repairs on such things or know of a reliable source of repairs? I've not tried breaking into the thing as my electronics repair abilities seemed to max out prior to chips and printed circuits. Fun to take things apart but if it is not a loose wire I'm out of luck. Not too many tubes in this one. TIA. BillR Jacksonville FL 1981 300SD'EM' 275K Ipaq 5455 with bad alignment [EMAIL PROTECTED] for off list contact ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
Ah, I think these touch screens have a touch sensitive layer on top of the actual display, some kind of plastic with very thin wires in it or something like that, or maybe some kind of sensors along the edge. Maybe that part got moved around relative to the actual display. --R BillR wrote: Odd thing this. Physically it seems fine, and the screen is where it should be, but it just will not align properly and always fails that part of the self test. Some programs with options across the top cannot be accessed; often you need to press outside of whatever spot you are supposed to press to get a result. Some other Items seem to work just as they should. I think it is electronic - have even resorted to a couple of firm taps from the opposite direction of the way it smacked into the cement with no result I could see. The cost thing is something I fear is true, that to replace would be cheaper than repair. It does me no good as is, so am willing to entrust it to someone with some interest or experience with these things. BillR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 1:18 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455 Do you mean the screen is physically out of whack or electronically? If it is just twisted in the case (not sure how that could be) then sounds like you just need to open it up and realign it. If it is the screen image then I am not sure how that could be fixed (unless you whack it again) -- might need some major parts transplant, which would probably cost more than a new/used one. --R BillR wrote: I will apologize in advance for being even more off topic than usual, but I know of no other knowledge base broad enough to probably have an answer for me. I have had my constant companion IPAQ 5455 drop out of my pocket a few times and now the screen alignment is so far off it is not correctable, making the machine unable to do many of the more interesting things I used to do on it. It is sitting unused on my desk. Still connects to the PC and downloads fine. It does most of what it should but needs help. Does anyone do repairs on such things or know of a reliable source of repairs? I've not tried breaking into the thing as my electronics repair abilities seemed to max out prior to chips and printed circuits. Fun to take things apart but if it is not a loose wire I'm out of luck. Not too many tubes in this one. TIA. BillR Jacksonville FL 1981 300SD'EM' 275K Ipaq 5455 with bad alignment [EMAIL PROTECTED] for off list contact ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Fluids and Filters
Thanks. Actually, it was my old primer pump that leaked. That must be what had me thinking that when fuel leaks out, it's done priming. According to the indy, I now have a good primer pump that came with the new (used) engine. It is, as one would expect, the old white type with screw top. Brian 83 240D On 5/12/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I guess I didn't stop to think: Am I being naive by not being more trepidacious about introducing air into the fuel system by changing the filters? It's no big deal. I assumed I'd have to use the hand primer pump to get fuel up to the IP, or injectors (you can see my lack of understanding here). But is it really a difficult undertaking - the filter changing process - due to the air in the system? I was planning on just pouring fuel from a can into the spin-on filter. That just saves time in the manual pumping phase. So, when using the primer pump, you just pump 'til it begins to leak out onto your hands? If not, how do you know when the job is done? You can hear/feel the change as the system fills with fuel. Leaking is a sign that the pump is not in good shape. But... The gasket on the screw-top pumps that leaks fuel is _not_ the same gasket that can leak air into the system. The usual extrapolation is that once one is shot then so is the other, but that's not entirely true. Also, the air seal can be replaced, I made a new one with a sheet of BUNA rubber, a 3/4 hole punch, and scissors. The pump has to be removed to do this, the rings slip on and off over the engine end of the pump's body. And what would happen if one didn't use the hand pump at all, and just tried to start it. I assume they'd get no start, but would they royally mess the system up in the process? Lots of cranking required. Such as on the 60X motors that don't have a hand primer pump. This is why I LOVED it when I installed an electric fuel pump on my big block, and chucked the manual one completely - and put a steel plate over its place on the block. No matter what I did, I could just turn on that trusty little pump, and I'd have fuel at the carbs in a few seconds. I went through great pain to restore the mechanical pump on my 250C. I didn't like the electric pump, or the idea of it (there was no cutoff circuitry) since I'd been forced to put one place when the mechanical pump failed. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited
I saw that commercial, but was distracted from watching it (and we always mute the commercials in our house - unless we want to watch an interesting one). But, it looked like a very interesting commercial. Preaching to my choir. I know I'll have a chance to see it again. Brian On 5/12/06, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There's a great VW Passat commercial on TV that I saw on TW yesterday. As the guy drives along, the driver of each different car they pass screams out a different slogan, e.g. I EARN MORE MONEY THAN YOU!!, I AM INSECURE ABOUT MY MASCULINITY!!, GET OUT OF MY WAY BECAUSE I AM MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOU!!! I think the Mercedes driver was yelling about earning power... On 5/12/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Brian, I'm with you 100%. I cannot stand to 'follow the crowd', I'd much rather reach my own conclusion/bias. I don't know if this is a human condition or not, I prefer to think of it as great American Rugged Individualism. Making biodiesel appeals to me for the same reason; nothing to do with political correctness or saving the planet, everything to do with being self-reliant and economical and enjoying the fruits of my labor unhindered by overbearing government (he says as he sits in uniform sucking at Mother Navy's tit with NSA probably reading every word of this email) :) Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 1:34 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited Forgive me, Marshall Field, as I know this doesn't give you any information on the topic you asked about, but: Your question regarding window switches reminded me of an episode on that show Real Housewives of Orange County. One of the families' daughter gets in her couple-of-year-old Mercedes coupe and tries to operate the window switch, and it's broken. She whines like a six year old: I need a new car! I always get hand-me-downs! Incidently, her mom also drives a Mercedes coupe, and at least one other character on the show does as well. This sort of speaks (indirectly) to the issue that was being talked about a few days ago on the list. The issue of new Mercedes vs. old was brought up. I guess this encapsulates most of the reason I don't really want a new Mercedes. It seems to be just sort of a generic, overly common car that folks buy because they are in a certain slot in society. The last few times I have gone out to California, I noticed that the freeways are crawling with them. And just very recently, I've noticed that that trend is finally hitting here in little ol' Rochester, MN. I get the feeling that 85% of the drivers of these new machines could just as likely have wound up in a Lexus or an Acura. I prefer to have something that you have to want to have - something that you couldn't have accidentally. Don't misunderstand, I know that there are a lot of folks that have new Mercedes' who are actually enthusiasts, and I'm not trying to step on their toes (though I think I did). Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
Sounds like you might be thinking the repair is moving back into my area of experience. I will get brave tomorrow and crack the case. Thanks - BillR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 1:35 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455 Ah, I think these touch screens have a touch sensitive layer on top of the actual display, some kind of plastic with very thin wires in it or something like that, or maybe some kind of sensors along the edge. Maybe that part got moved around relative to the actual display. --R BillR wrote: Odd thing this. Physically it seems fine, and the screen is where it should be, but it just will not align properly and always fails that part of the self test. Some programs with options across the top cannot be accessed; often you need to press outside of whatever spot you are supposed to press to get a result. Some other Items seem to work just as they should. I think it is electronic - have even resorted to a couple of firm taps from the opposite direction of the way it smacked into the cement with no result I could see. The cost thing is something I fear is true, that to replace would be cheaper than repair. It does me no good as is, so am willing to entrust it to someone with some interest or experience with these things. BillR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 1:18 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455 Do you mean the screen is physically out of whack or electronically? If it is just twisted in the case (not sure how that could be) then sounds like you just need to open it up and realign it. If it is the screen image then I am not sure how that could be fixed (unless you whack it again) -- might need some major parts transplant, which would probably cost more than a new/used one. --R BillR wrote: I will apologize in advance for being even more off topic than usual, but I know of no other knowledge base broad enough to probably have an answer for me. I have had my constant companion IPAQ 5455 drop out of my pocket a few times and now the screen alignment is so far off it is not correctable, making the machine unable to do many of the more interesting things I used to do on it. It is sitting unused on my desk. Still connects to the PC and downloads fine. It does most of what it should but needs help. Does anyone do repairs on such things or know of a reliable source of repairs? I've not tried breaking into the thing as my electronics repair abilities seemed to max out prior to chips and printed circuits. Fun to take things apart but if it is not a loose wire I'm out of luck. Not too many tubes in this one. TIA. BillR Jacksonville FL 1981 300SD'EM' 275K Ipaq 5455 with bad alignment [EMAIL PROTECTED] for off list contact ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited
Come to think of it, the commercial you mentioned sort of shines a light on that annoying Dodge commercial in which the driver's dog is mooning out the window. This is the first instance of overt promotion by a car company of the type of attitudes people get behind the wheel. Well, not the first, I guess. There's also the current Honda Fit commercial in which it literally chomps and swallows the car in front of it. How about the Ford truck commercials that actually say that you are tough if you drive one of these. Car companies may as well start issuing official stickers with that kid that pees on everything. I can see a sticker with the kid wearing a Mercedes t-shirt and peeing on your choice of other make. Brian 83 240D On 5/12/06, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There's a great VW Passat commercial on TV that I saw on TW yesterday. As the guy drives along, the driver of each different car they pass screams out a different slogan, e.g. I EARN MORE MONEY THAN YOU!!, I AM INSECURE ABOUT MY MASCULINITY!!, GET OUT OF MY WAY BECAUSE I AM MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOU!!! I think the Mercedes driver was yelling about earning power... On 5/12/06, Dillon, Meade LCDR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Brian, I'm with you 100%. I cannot stand to 'follow the crowd', I'd much rather reach my own conclusion/bias. I don't know if this is a human condition or not, I prefer to think of it as great American Rugged Individualism. Making biodiesel appeals to me for the same reason; nothing to do with political correctness or saving the planet, everything to do with being self-reliant and economical and enjoying the fruits of my labor unhindered by overbearing government (he says as he sits in uniform sucking at Mother Navy's tit with NSA probably reading every word of this email) :) Very respectfully, /s/ Meade Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD 287k miles '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold* -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto: [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 1:34 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] New vs. Old Revisited Forgive me, Marshall Field, as I know this doesn't give you any information on the topic you asked about, but: Your question regarding window switches reminded me of an episode on that show Real Housewives of Orange County. One of the families' daughter gets in her couple-of-year-old Mercedes coupe and tries to operate the window switch, and it's broken. She whines like a six year old: I need a new car! I always get hand-me-downs! Incidently, her mom also drives a Mercedes coupe, and at least one other character on the show does as well. This sort of speaks (indirectly) to the issue that was being talked about a few days ago on the list. The issue of new Mercedes vs. old was brought up. I guess this encapsulates most of the reason I don't really want a new Mercedes. It seems to be just sort of a generic, overly common car that folks buy because they are in a certain slot in society. The last few times I have gone out to California, I noticed that the freeways are crawling with them. And just very recently, I've noticed that that trend is finally hitting here in little ol' Rochester, MN. I get the feeling that 85% of the drivers of these new machines could just as likely have wound up in a Lexus or an Acura. I prefer to have something that you have to want to have - something that you couldn't have accidentally. Don't misunderstand, I know that there are a lot of folks that have new Mercedes' who are actually enthusiasts, and I'm not trying to step on their toes (though I think I did). Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Mounting rear bumper rubber: 123 vs. 108/109/111
Kaleb, Will that trick work on a W111 or W108/109 bumper strip? On 5/12/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The best way to do it is to bend it at the middle so the channel opens up wide and fit that onto the bumper, then do the hammer trick the rest of the way. Luther Gulseth wrote: Soapy water for lube. Works like a charm, can almost slide it on by hand. On Thu, 11 May 2006 22:21:01 -0500, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I felt like a real champion when I discovered how easy it was to mount the rubber strip on the rear bumper of my son's 1985 300D. Just whack it with a mallet the length of the rubber and the strip pops into place on the steel flange of the bumper. On my late111 coupe, however, I had no such luck and had to laboriously lube and thread the rubber the length of the bumper. When I tried to bash it into place it just made the car vibrate and had no effect. Is there a shortcut? Both the 123 and 111 or 108/109 rubber strips are similar in that they are designed to inerlock with the steel part of the bumper... 1983 300TD 1970 280SE 3.5 W111 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
Did you try a soft reset!? You'll lose any data not in ROM but at this point you have very little choice, I am afraid. Good luck, Omar. Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 13:31:15 -0400 From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455 Odd thing this. Physically it seems fine, and the screen is where it should be, but it just will not align properly and always fails that part of the self test. Some programs with options across the top cannot be accessed; often you need to press outside of whatever spot you are supposed to press to get a result. Some other Items seem to work just as they should. I think it is electronic - have even resorted to a couple of firm taps from the opposite direction of the way it smacked into the cement with no result I could see. The cost thing is something I fear is true, that to replace would be cheaper than repair. It does me no good as is, so am willing to entrust it to someone with some interest or experience with these things. BillR
Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
BillR wrote: Sounds like you might be thinking the repair is moving back into my area of experience. I will get brave tomorrow and crack the case. Bill, There are no user serviceable parts inside your iPAQ, nor are there any field replaceable units contained therein. Repair of an iPAQ is replacement of the device. Not to say that you won't have any luck once you get in there, because I simply don't know. All I know is that there aren't any internal spare parts listed - whole unit replacement only. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi 1980 300TD 175+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi 1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi
Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
Done several soft and a few hard resets [quite a pain]. No change in the action. BillR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of kayoooh @ gmail Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 2:23 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455 Did you try a soft reset!? You'll lose any data not in ROM but at this point you have very little choice, I am afraid. Good luck, Omar. Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 13:31:15 -0400 From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455 Odd thing this. Physically it seems fine, and the screen is where it should be, but it just will not align properly and always fails that part of the self test. Some programs with options across the top cannot be accessed; often you need to press outside of whatever spot you are supposed to press to get a result. Some other Items seem to work just as they should. I think it is electronic - have even resorted to a couple of firm taps from the opposite direction of the way it smacked into the cement with no result I could see. The cost thing is something I fear is true, that to replace would be cheaper than repair. It does me no good as is, so am willing to entrust it to someone with some interest or experience with these things. BillR ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
Pretty much what I feared. I was shocked some years ago when the standard repair on my Commodore 64 was to junk the insides and reuse the case. Repair work isn't what it used to be. I'll open it up as I do have nothing to lose. But not today. BillR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Ervine Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 2:28 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455 BillR wrote: Sounds like you might be thinking the repair is moving back into my area of experience. I will get brave tomorrow and crack the case. Bill, There are no user serviceable parts inside your iPAQ, nor are there any field replaceable units contained therein. Repair of an iPAQ is replacement of the device. Not to say that you won't have any luck once you get in there, because I simply don't know. All I know is that there aren't any internal spare parts listed - whole unit replacement only. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi 1980 300TD 175+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi 1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot
Speaking of play: When I was under my 240D looking at the rear axles (which, yes, have split boots on one side, and cracked on the other), I noticed that I was able to take hold of the axle and move it back and forth and inch or so. I'm talking about movement along the axle's length. This alarmed me. Either it's normal, or I have been driving on seriously borrowed time (especially as I drove from AZ to MN). Brian 83 240D Gerry wrote: When I turn the right rear wheel there isn't any play between the cans and the axle shaft or the drive shaft.
Re: [MBZ] 124 Glow Plug Difficutly
IIRC, a very technically-advanced reaming tool - aka a piece of wood. On 5/12/06, ned kleinhenz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: When I recently removed the intake manifold off my '95 E300D (124 with a 606 engine) , I changed the glow plugs. The front 3 plugs required hours of coaxing finessing and arm strength to get them out. And the new ones went in with similar difficulty. The new ones wrenched to specified torque with lots of thread still showing. The back 3 plugs came out with ease. And the new ones threaded all the way in by hand, then tightened normally with the torque wrench. Seems like I've read about the injector ports filling with carbon and causing these kinds of problem... Is my memory correct? What is the correct way to fix this problem? Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2 '85 300D '80 300TD ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] 124 Glow Plug Difficutly
Seems like I've read about the injector ports filling with carbon and causing these kinds of problem... Is my memory correct? What is the correct way to fix this problem? That is what the glow plug reamer is for. Many people have made do with handheld drill bits, etc. and compressed air. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
Pretty much what I feared. I was shocked some years ago when the standard repair on my Commodore 64 was to junk the insides and reuse the case. Repair work isn't what it used to be. I'll open it up as I do have nothing to lose. But not today. That, of course, is pretty much the modern mantra of repair, except for truly expensive (read: military/industrial) items. That is not to say, however, that the accomplished and brave DIY cannot fix them, but it's not cost-effective when you're paying scale for labor. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot
I was able to take hold of the axle and move it back and forth and inch or so. I'm talking about movement along the axle's length. Sliding along the axis between the differential and wheel is normal. -- Jim
[MBZ] '91 300D purchase inspection
I'm going to look at a '91 300D that smokes. What things should I look for on this car before making an offer? It has 235kmi, clean body, no rust or dents (just parking lot dings) and the interior is clean and everything works. Suggestions welcome. TIA all. -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) '82 300CD (159,222 kmi) '82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot
Jim Cathey wrote: I was able to take hold of the axle and move it back and forth and inch or so. I'm talking about movement along the axle's length. Sliding along the axis between the differential and wheel is normal. In fact, it's necessary. As the suspension extends the axle has to get longer. David Brodbeck '83 300D Turbo
Re: [MBZ] I am on crank
Got your email. No paypal. Send me your address and I'll mail you money order. Gerry Archer --- If you sent it I probably got it. I will be responding to parts questions over the weekend. archer wrote: Kaleb: Did you get my order with the question about payment? I'm re-sending it to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D -
[MBZ] wow '85 SD
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=18021872 -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) '82 300CD (159,222 kmi) '82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
