Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Luther Gulseth
Sorry about the incorrect time.

I modified the T-stat by bending about 1/2 of the radiator flap up and creating 
a gap for constant flow.

I ran it on just water to check for leaks at the t-stat and other hoses, then I 
dumped a bottle of Prestone flush in and drove it around the neighborhood in 
2nd for about 5 minutes...2 different times.  5 minutes is about how long it 
takes to hit 100-110C.  After the first trip, the radiator was still cold but 
the bottom hose was slightly warmer.  After the 2nd trip around, the bottom 
hose was actually warm to touch, but the center of the radaitor was still 
coldgrrr.  But, I take this to show that the water pump is making an 
effort, even with resistance, to move coolant through the system.  Maybe with 
time and several more trips with the flush, it'll open the radaitor up.

I'm fairly certain the head is cracked or at least the gasket is blown.  With 
the pressure cap off and the engine idling you can see a constant wisp of vapor 
coming out.  With the cap on, it doesn't take long to build enough pressure to 
cause the cap to release some of it, and that's a continual cycle.  Sound right?


On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 17:19:48 -0600, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yesterday and today I've worked on the SDL trying to figure out why it is 
 overheating.  Yesterday, I first checked to see if the fan clutch was 
 engaging, it's not.well, the radiator isn't hot enough to cause the 
 clutch to engage.  Lower hose is cool to the touch, top is HOT.  I am also 
 not getting very much heat in the cab when I select defrost and MAX temp.  
 Hrm, so I drained all of the coolant and started pulling some of the system 
 apart and noticed this red, gritty grime coating the inside of EVERYTHING.  
 Hrm, wonder if the PPO (previous-previous owner before Kaleb) tried some of 
 that block/head/radiator sealer?  I have modified the old thermostat to be 
 mostly open all the time.  Could the cold bottom/hot top problem be a bad 
 water pump and how would I check that?




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car



Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Luther Gulseth
Do you still have the silicone oil?  I might take a shipment of that

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 16:36:58 -0600, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 the radiator isn't hot enough to cause the clutch to engage.  Lower
 hose is cool to the touch, top is HOT.  I am also not getting very
 much heat in the

 Your radiator is clogged, perhaps also the heater core.  First step
 would be
 to flush the system, then try an acid flush.  But be prepared to have to
 replace things like heater core, radiator, and monovalve insert if they
 indeed did use clog-o-matic on it.

 So sorry for you.  See: http://cathey.dogear.com/SDLcool.html

 -- Jim




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car



Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread OK Don

why do it the hard way? Take the radiator out, and let a radiator shop
clean it and verify good flow.

I suspect that your t-stat mod might be causing more problem than
help, if it can't close the bypass port (don't know whether the bent
part prevents that or not).

On 10/29/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Sorry about the incorrect time.

I modified the T-stat by bending about 1/2 of the radiator flap up and creating 
a gap for constant flow.

I ran it on just water to check for leaks at the t-stat and other hoses, then I 
dumped a bottle of Prestone flush in and drove it around the neighborhood in 
2nd for about 5 minutes...2 different times.  5 minutes is about how long it 
takes to hit 100-110C.  After the first trip, the radiator was still cold but 
the bottom hose was slightly warmer.  After the 2nd trip around, the bottom 
hose was actually warm to touch, but the center of the radaitor was still 
coldgrrr.  But, I take this to show that the water pump is making an 
effort, even with resistance, to move coolant through the system.  Maybe with 
time and several more trips with the flush, it'll open the radaitor up.

I'm fairly certain the head is cracked or at least the gasket is blown.  With 
the pressure cap off and the engine idling you can see a constant wisp of vapor 
coming out.  With the cap on, it doesn't take long to build enough pressure to 
cause the cap to release some of it, and that's a continual cycle.  Sound right?



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



[MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread Craig McCluskey
Seems to be the project of the day ...

Anyway, I've set about to use the 5 pounds of citric acid I purchase
awhile back and have been de-oiling and descaling the cooling system of
our 617.912 W123.

Yesterday, I drained the antifreeze, put in an ond thermostat that
didn't close entirely and filled with water and two cups of Cascasde
dishwasher detergent. By blocking the radiator with cardboard, I was able
to bring the temp up to 100 C, let it run awhile -- noticing the flow
through the fill -- and drain. Repeated with clean water to get the
detergent out.

Today, I put in 4.5 cups (at 120 g/cup) of citric acid and water and ran
it. I found out that citric acid kills thermostats, because it did NOT
open and I did not see coolant flow throught the fill. Hmmm ...

So I went to force the thermostat permanently open, ala Jim Cathey and his
.38 cartridge brass, but I didn't have any cartridge brass. I then reread
the first couple of paragraphs of the de-oiling and descaling procedure in
the engine manual.

Guess what: It says to REMOVE the thermostat.

I looked in vain for the section that lists the shop made tool of a
forced-open thermostat I know I've seen somewhere. I couldn't find it. So,
in order to turn the car around, I put the thermostat housing back on
without the thermostat (but with the gasket).

Guess what: There IS coolant flow through the radiator with the thermostat
removed. Almost as much as when I had the thermostat in
yesterday. And certainly a whole bunch more than with the
dead thermostat in place.

So, the conventional wisdom seems to have been thrown out the window.
I was really suprised to read the engine manual saying to REMOVE the
thermostat, but I'll still try to generate a forced-open thermostat.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:02:42 -0700 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Today, I put in 4.5 cups (at 120 g/cup) of citric acid 

Oops. Make that 120 g/one-half cup (240 g/cup).


Craig



Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Luther Gulseth
Not everyone has $'s like you :)  I'm thinking of making an adapter so I 
can apply regulated air pressure to the radiator and blow the clogged stuff 
out.  Our water here doesn't have very high pressure.something about being 
rural and on top of a hill.

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:56:32 -0600, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 why do it the hard way? Take the radiator out, and let a radiator shop
 clean it and verify good flow.

 I suspect that your t-stat mod might be causing more problem than
 help, if it can't close the bypass port (don't know whether the bent
 part prevents that or not).

 On 10/29/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Sorry about the incorrect time.

 I modified the T-stat by bending about 1/2 of the radiator flap up and 
 creating a gap for constant flow.

 I ran it on just water to check for leaks at the t-stat and other hoses, 
 then I dumped a bottle of Prestone flush in and drove it around the 
 neighborhood in 2nd for about 5 minutes...2 different times.  5 minutes is 
 about how long it takes to hit 100-110C.  After the first trip, the radiator 
 was still cold but the bottom hose was slightly warmer.  After the 2nd trip 
 around, the bottom hose was actually warm to touch, but the center of the 
 radaitor was still coldgrrr.  But, I take this to show that the water 
 pump is making an effort, even with resistance, to move coolant through the 
 system.  Maybe with time and several more trips with the flush, it'll open 
 the radaitor up.

 I'm fairly certain the head is cracked or at least the gasket is blown.  
 With the pressure cap off and the engine idling you can see a constant wisp 
 of vapor coming out.  With the cap on, it doesn't take long to build enough 
 pressure to cause the cap to release some of it, and that's a continual 
 cycle.  Sound right?





-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car



Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread OK Don

Well - it's not the first time that conventional wisdom has been shown
to be wrong ---
Thanks for the information!

FWIW - I just looked up the coolant system cleaning instructions for
117, 617, and 603 engines - all in the 20-015 section of the CD.
Only the 603 calls for the special tool to replace the t-stat during
the procedure. Both the 117 and 617 instructions only require that you
remove the t-stat, replace the housing, and get to work.



So, the conventional wisdom seems to have been thrown out the window.
I was really suprised to read the engine manual saying to REMOVE the
thermostat, but I'll still try to generate a forced-open thermostat.




--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Peter Frederick

How are you filling it?

Are you pumping the upper rad hose and crimping the small line to the 
reservoir?  If not, you only have about a gallon in a two gallon system 
and it's gonna run hot!


To purge, squeeze the upper radiator hose flat, then crimp the small 
line to the reservoir, then let the upper hose go.  Coolant will be 
pulled out of the reservoir into the block.  Repeat, adding coolant or 
flush, whatever, until the level goes up and down but the tank stays at 
least half full.


If the center of the rad stays cold, it's radiator time.  Cheaper than 
a blown engine.  Get a new T-stat too, they are cheap.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread OK Don

Decalcification calls for 100grams per liter -
100 grams is 3.5 oz. (dry). A liter is approx. a quart. So, for 2
gallons of citric acid solution, I'd dissolve 2 pounds of citric acid
in 2 gallons. It should be close enough.

On 10/29/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:02:42 -0700 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Today, I put in 4.5 cups (at 120 g/cup) of citric acid

Oops. Make that 120 g/one-half cup (240 g/cup).



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Luther Gulseth
I fill in the top radiator hose until it trickles out the radiator neck.  I 
also have a Prestone flush tee installed where the block2heater core line is by 
the oil filter.  I've run the car with the water hose attached there to flush 
the system before adding the flush.

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 20:18:18 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 How are you filling it?

 Are you pumping the upper rad hose and crimping the small line to the
 reservoir?  If not, you only have about a gallon in a two gallon system
 and it's gonna run hot!

 To purge, squeeze the upper radiator hose flat, then crimp the small
 line to the reservoir, then let the upper hose go.  Coolant will be
 pulled out of the reservoir into the block.  Repeat, adding coolant or
 flush, whatever, until the level goes up and down but the tank stays at
 least half full.

 If the center of the rad stays cold, it's radiator time.  Cheaper than
 a blown engine.  Get a new T-stat too, they are cheap.

 Peter




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car



Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread Luther Gulseth
what about liquid citric acid??

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 20:32:00 -0600, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Decalcification calls for 100grams per liter -
 100 grams is 3.5 oz. (dry). A liter is approx. a quart. So, for 2
 gallons of citric acid solution, I'd dissolve 2 pounds of citric acid
 in 2 gallons. It should be close enough.

 On 10/29/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:02:42 -0700 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

  Today, I put in 4.5 cups (at 120 g/cup) of citric acid

 Oops. Make that 120 g/one-half cup (240 g/cup).





-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car



Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread OK Don

Well, it did cost $55.00 to have the 107 radiator cleaned last time --
but that was small change compared to the rest of the engine
rebuilding project, and cheap insurance.

I have adopted the fill from the upper radiator hose process, and it
has resulted in fewer troublesome bubbles to burp.

I like Peter's suggestion to pump the hose with the small hose clamped
- I'll do that also next time.

On 10/29/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Not everyone has $'s like you :)  I'm thinking of making an adapter so I 
can apply regulated air pressure to the radiator and blow the clogged stuff 
out.  Our water here doesn't have very high pressure.something about being 
rural and on top of a hill.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread OK Don

You want a 10% solution (100 grams acid to 1000 grams (1 liter)
water)-- read the label, find out what you have, and dilute to a
resulting 10%. I've never run across liquid citric acid, except as a
component in commercial cleaning solutions. I buy the solid citric
acid in 10 lb. buckets from http://www.chemistrystore.com/ . Certainly
not the least expensive after you add in the shipping, but the
easiest.

On 10/29/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

what about liquid citric acid??



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Peter Frederick

Luther, won't work.

The crud clogging the rad is aluminum phosphate corrosion, most likely 
(unless you are really lucky and it's only carbonate and will clean out 
LONG soaking in citric acid).  Aluminum phosphate deposits are pretty 
much impossible to remove when accessable, let along inside the rad 
tubes.


On top of that, if you DO clean then out, it's almost a certainty that 
the rad will leak shortly.


Get a new one, you will eventually crack the head if you don't and 
that's MUCH more bother and expense.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Peter Frederick

Do the hose shuffle to be sure.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Luther Gulseth
Crack the head?  I'm fairly certain that's already done due to the vapor that 
is constantly flowing from an open pressure cap.

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 20:48:14 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Luther, won't work.

 The crud clogging the rad is aluminum phosphate corrosion, most likely
 (unless you are really lucky and it's only carbonate and will clean out
 LONG soaking in citric acid).  Aluminum phosphate deposits are pretty
 much impossible to remove when accessable, let along inside the rad
 tubes.

 On top of that, if you DO clean then out, it's almost a certainty that
 the rad will leak shortly.

 Get a new one, you will eventually crack the head if you don't and
 that's MUCH more bother and expense.

 Peter




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car



Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 21:32:00 -0500 OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Decalcification calls for 100grams per liter -
 100 grams is 3.5 oz. (dry). A liter is approx. a quart. So, for 2
 gallons of citric acid solution, I'd dissolve 2 pounds of citric acid
 in 2 gallons. It should be close enough.

I happened to have a half-cup measure at hand as well as a gram scale, so
I weighed a half-cup of the powder = 120 grams.

Nine half-cups gives 1080 g, which is quite close to the 1100 grams my 11
liter cooling system would take.

Now everyone else knows a half-cup of citric acid is 120 grams and can
scoop out accordingly.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Peter Frederick
Serious underfilling will also give you steam, since the head isn't 
full yet -- a much better situation.


Pressure cold is a better indication of cracks in the head.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread OK Don

Great! I was going to do that -- you beat me to it.


Nine half-cups gives 1080 g, which is quite close to the 1100 grams my 11
liter cooling system would take.

Now everyone else knows a half-cup of citric acid is 120 grams and can
scoop out accordingly.


Craig



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Luther Gulseth
it's deffinately NOT steam, to light and wispy for steam.

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 21:06:37 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Serious underfilling will also give you steam, since the head isn't
 full yet -- a much better situation.

 Pressure cold is a better indication of cracks in the head.

 Peter




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car



Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plug conversion

2006-10-30 Thread Kevin J. Slater

Jim Cathey said:
 Thanks for the advice. I have a friend making me some suitable plug to
 plug cables since I don't have a good crimp tool. The plugs are on the
 way
 from Rusty. I still may attempt to use 4 of the 5 spots on my 300D glow
 plug relay at some point in the future, but there would be that issue
 of
 it not seeing what it wants from the missing glow plug which would
 probably cause the glow plug light on the dash to do funny things..

 Eh?  You're not planning to use that relay and wire the whole string to
 only one pin?  That won't work, those pins aren't rated for the full
 current.  Individually, that is.  And yes, the light won't work right.
 Changing it to a four-banger also would not be easy, as the current
 sensing
 works via balanced windings working against a reed switch.  You'd have
 to
 rewind the heavy wire coil around there to compensate, and I'm not sure
 you can do this without ruining it.  If you open the relay all should
 become clear with a bit of studying.  (Though come to think of it the
 5-cylinder version has a weird 'bolt-on' arrangement for handling #5,
 so maybe it could be converted after all.  More study would be req'd.)


Did the glowplug conversion with the new pencil style parallel plugs on
Saturday. As expected it made a huge difference for starting the car.

The friend who made up the wires for me and I got to talking as he's
pretty savvy electrically. I was explaining my curiousity about using the
5 cylinder glowplug relay and timer and he suggested a novel idea.

His thought  on how to connect it was to just take the 5th wire and
connect it to one of the other 4 plugs so that one plug would have 2 wires
going to it. This way the comparison circuit would be fooled into seeing
the same value on all 5 lines. I asked about the downside to having 2
wires to one plug (I was concerned about it wearing out faster) and he
reminded me that the current flow is controlled by the resistor in the
circuit, not by the amount of wire or gauge supplying it. Thoughts?

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi
79 240D 157k mi



Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plug conversion

2006-10-30 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 00:02:04 -0500 (EST) Kevin J. Slater
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I asked about the downside to having 2 wires to one plug (I was
 concerned about it wearing out faster) and he reminded me that the
 current flow is controlled by the resistor in the circuit, not by the
 amount of wire or gauge supplying it. Thoughts?

Given that the resistance of the plug (about 1 ohm hot) is much more than
the resistance of the wiring, his statement is correct.

In actuality, the plug with the two wires will be getting slightly higher
voltage than the others -- if all the wires are the same length. If
the lengths are very much different, it's up for grabs what the effect
will be.

Don't loose sleep over it.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Jim Cathey
Do you still have the silicone oil?  I might take a shipment of 
that


I parceled it all out, and only have the same amount left as I shipped
to each customer.  In other words, I still have my share, which is 
enough

to fool with many clutches.  Given my collection of aging beasts, I
think I'd better hang on to what I have left.  It's not hard to come
by, but you have to buy a gallon of it and shipping just about doubles
the price.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread Jim Cathey

component in commercial cleaning solutions. I buy the solid citric
acid in 10 lb. buckets from http://www.chemistrystore.com/ . Certainly
not the least expensive after you add in the shipping, but the
easiest.


I bought mine at a local (commercial) baking supply store.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plug conversion

2006-10-30 Thread Jim Cathey

His thought  on how to connect it was to just take the 5th wire and
connect it to one of the other 4 plugs so that one plug would have 2 
wires
going to it. This way the comparison circuit would be fooled into 
seeing

the same value on all 5 lines.


Won't work, IMHO.  The comparison circuit is looking for, let us say,
15A on #1, and 60A on the others.  Hooking two plug wires in parallel
is not going to cause it to draw an additional 15A to make the current
balance transformer happy!  This thing is measuring current, not
voltage.

The one 5-cyl GP relay I opened is trickier than that, in that #5 has
a separate measurement circuit, bolted onto the side of the old 
4-cylinder

design, so it might be possible that the idea could work there in some
form.  But I don't know if they're all built that way, and in general
it could not work as intended.

-- Jim




[MBZ] 300 SEL questions

2006-10-30 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Listers, 

My brother is looking at some 88-89 300SEL's. Any flags or common
recurring problems? Overall judgment of the model? TIA
Dwight 

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + + miles-Green Goddess
1990 300D 2.5t, 135K miles-The Princess
Wickford, RI




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Re: [MBZ] 300 SEL questions

2006-10-30 Thread Trampas
Personally I would go with the 420SEL or 560SEL, the 300's are just too
underpowered and the 420SEL will give more power and same mileage. 

Other than that there have been several posts about common problems with the
W126, as such I will not list here. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 7:42 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: [MBZ] 300 SEL questions

Listers, 

My brother is looking at some 88-89 300SEL's. Any flags or common
recurring problems? Overall judgment of the model? TIA
Dwight 

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + + miles-Green Goddess
1990 300D 2.5t, 135K miles-The Princess
Wickford, RI




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For
used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Trampas
When you order new radiator, make sure that it has reinforced upper radiator
hose neck. The cheap one from Rusty that I got for my gasser W126 was not
reinforced. I would have gotten more expensive one if I knew that cheap one
was not reinforced. 

Trampas 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Luther Gulseth
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 10:45 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

it's deffinately NOT steam, to light and wispy for steam.

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 21:06:37 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Serious underfilling will also give you steam, since the head isn't
 full yet -- a much better situation.

 Pressure cold is a better indication of cracks in the head.

 Peter




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[MBZ] Next issue to sort out on rescued 79 240D

2006-10-30 Thread Kevin J. Slater
So I was driving the 240D the other night and needed to turn on the
defroster (it has manual controls) and I detected the sweet smell of
coolant. I can't recall, but I seem to remember that the heater core for
W123's is in a bad place, a place that's really hard to get to. The
coolant level hasn't plummeted since we've been driving the car so I'm
guessing the leak is small / minor.

So the question is, what to do? Do I try a stop leak product? If so, which
one is likely to give the best results? (Knowing that no stop leak product
is the best choice.) Or is the RR not as bad as I've been lead to
believe?

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi
79 240D 157k mi




Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread Curt Raymond

Conventional wisdom is true on this one but its still odd...
When the coolant is cold the car will be okay with no thermostat.
Once its warmed up it'll over heat just like a stuck thermostat. Wierd but true.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:02:42 -0700
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Radiator flushing
To: mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Seems to be the project of the day ...

Anyway, I've set about to use the 5 pounds of citric acid I purchase
awhile back and have been de-oiling and descaling the cooling system of
our 617.912 W123.

Yesterday, I drained the antifreeze, put in an ond thermostat that
didn't close entirely and filled with water and two cups of Cascasde
dishwasher detergent. By blocking the radiator with cardboard, I was 
able
to bring the temp up to 100 C, let it run awhile -- noticing the flow
through the fill -- and drain. Repeated with clean water to get the
detergent out.

Today, I put in 4.5 cups (at 120 g/cup) of citric acid and water and 
ran
it. I found out that citric acid kills thermostats, because it did NOT
open and I did not see coolant flow throught the fill. Hmmm ...

So I went to force the thermostat permanently open, ala Jim Cathey and 
his
.38 cartridge brass, but I didn't have any cartridge brass. I then 
reread
the first couple of paragraphs of the de-oiling and descaling procedure 
in
the engine manual.

Guess what: It says to REMOVE the thermostat.

I looked in vain for the section that lists the shop made tool of a
forced-open thermostat I know I've seen somewhere. I couldn't find it. 
So,
in order to turn the car around, I put the thermostat housing back on
without the thermostat (but with the gasket).

Guess what: There IS coolant flow through the radiator with the 
thermostat
removed. Almost as much as when I had the thermostat in
yesterday. And certainly a whole bunch more than with the
dead thermostat in place.

So, the conventional wisdom seems to have been thrown out the window.
I was really suprised to read the engine manual saying to REMOVE the
thermostat, but I'll still try to generate a forced-open thermostat.


Craig

 
-
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From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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 Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Next issue to sort out on rescued 79 240D
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 So I was driving the 240D the other night and needed to turn on the
 defroster (it has manual controls) and I detected the sweet smell of
 coolant. I can't recall, but I seem to remember that the heater core 
 for
 W123's is in a bad place, a place that's really hard to get to. The
 coolant level hasn't plummeted since we've been driving the car so I'm
 guessing the leak is small / minor.

Sometimes you get lucky, and the leak is at the hose connections
to the core.  On some models gravity works to siphon small leaks
inside where they can drip into the works.  I don't know if the 123
is built this way, however.  Worth looking on the firewall to see
if there are any leaks there where the rubber meets the hard lines
coming through the firewall.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 300 SEL questions

2006-10-30 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
OK-thanks.
Dwight 

Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Trampas
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 8:34 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 SEL questions


Personally I would go with the 420SEL or 560SEL, the 300's are just too
underpowered and the 420SEL will give more power and same mileage. 

Other than that there have been several posts about common problems with
the W126, as such I will not list here. 

Trampas





Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust

2006-10-30 Thread andrew strasfogel

Let's all vote Larry T for Jaloponist of the Year with that amazingly
cost-effective solution.

On 10/28/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Thanks, Larry. I'll consider the liquid nails next.

Brian


On 10/28/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Don't know if this will work in your application, but my rear
 resonator/muffler/whatever it;s called had some pin holes in the leading
 surface area - not wanting to spend the $300+ for a new one I tried
Liquid
 Nails Project Adhesive.  It comes out of the tube (like a caulk tube)
and
 I
 spread it and forced it into the holes.  Once it dried (about 2 hours
 IIRC)
 I started it (my 91 300D)  up and let the resonator get good and warm -
 the
 Liquid Nails has set up hard as concrete and after 3 months is still
 working
 fine.  This is the car my wife drives to work - ~110 mi RT.

 While it's drying I would not recommend starting the engine until its
had
 time to set up completely.  When it is no longer dented by a finger
nail,
 it's dry.

 A tube of Liquid Nails is ~$5 at W'mart or Home Depot, or lowes.

 Good luck -

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:31 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust


  Ahhh BTDT.
  Rather than JB Weld get a soup can (or green beans or whatever you
have)
  and some hose clamps. Cheaper (especially if you can get free hose
 clamps
  at the wreckers) and easier...
 
  -Curt
 
 
  -
  Want to start your own business? Learn how on  Yahoo! Small Business.
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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  10/27/2006
 
 


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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 22:44:06 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  Do you still have the silicone oil?  I might take a shipment of 
  that

 It's not hard to come by, but you have to buy a gallon of it and
 shipping just about doubles the price.

So, where does one come by it?

And for what, exactly, is one looking?


Craig



[MBZ] FW: Ultra Low sulfur Diesel

2006-10-30 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
At the risk of starting another fuel thread, I wanted to know more about
the ULSD.  I fueled up the 300D 2.5t Friday  ($2.59/gal) and noticed
that the Shell station now has the new ultra low # 2.   Inside the
station, they had a Shell pamphlet of Q  A about ULSD-much of what has
been covered on this list. But there was a caveat about using it in pre
2007 diesel engines mentioning  premature fuel leakage, filter failure,
etc, etc. (I don't have the exact quotes as my dog ate the brochure. )
So my question is-is this just lawyer talk to cover themselves, or
should I start to worry-esp. about the leaks.  And, if I should star to
monitor this, should I worry more about the 240D than the 300D?
Any references or studies would be appreciated. 
 
Thanks,
Dwight
 
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.
Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + + miles-Green Goddess
1990 300D 2.5t, 135K miles-The Princess
Wickford, RI


Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust

2006-10-30 Thread Potter, Tom E
Hear! Hear! I cast my vote for Larry.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 8:41 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust

Let's all vote Larry T for Jaloponist of the Year with that amazingly
cost-effective solution.

On 10/28/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks, Larry. I'll consider the liquid nails next.

 Brian


 On 10/28/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Don't know if this will work in your application, but my rear
  resonator/muffler/whatever it;s called had some pin holes in the
leading
  surface area - not wanting to spend the $300+ for a new one I tried
 Liquid
  Nails Project Adhesive.  It comes out of the tube (like a caulk
tube)
 and
  I
  spread it and forced it into the holes.  Once it dried (about 2
hours
  IIRC)
  I started it (my 91 300D)  up and let the resonator get good and
warm -
  the
  Liquid Nails has set up hard as concrete and after 3 months is still
  working
  fine.  This is the car my wife drives to work - ~110 mi RT.
 
  While it's drying I would not recommend starting the engine until
its
 had
  time to set up completely.  When it is no longer dented by a finger
 nail,
  it's dry.
 
  A tube of Liquid Nails is ~$5 at W'mart or Home Depot, or lowes.
 
  Good luck -
 
  Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
  www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
  Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
  PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
  Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
  Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
  .
  - Original Message -
  From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:31 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust
 
 
   Ahhh BTDT.
   Rather than JB Weld get a soup can (or green beans or whatever you
 have)
   and some hose clamps. Cheaper (especially if you can get free hose
  clamps
   at the wreckers) and easier...
  
   -Curt
  
  
   -
   Want to start your own business? Learn how on  Yahoo! Small
Business.
   ___
   http://www.okiebenz.com
   For new parts see official list sponsor:
http://www.buymbparts.com/
   For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
   http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
  
  
   --
   No virus found in this incoming message.
   Checked by AVG Free Edition.
   Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.16/504 - Release Date:
   10/27/2006
  
  
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] FW: Ultra Low sulfur Diesel

2006-10-30 Thread dave walton

The people that pay for the studies will never let us look at them.
They will only release partial, if any, info as it fits their needs.
BP switched over to ULSD many months ago without telling anyone. I
went to a BP reunion last month and heard that there were in fact some
issues. BP ended up paying for repairs on a number of vehicles that
were damaged by the initial release of the fuel. No doubt, a number of
failures were never linked to BP - fancy that. The additive package
has since been modified and complaints died down.

-Dave Walton

On 10/30/06, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

At the risk of starting another fuel thread, I wanted to know more about
the ULSD.  I fueled up the 300D 2.5t Friday  ($2.59/gal) and noticed
that the Shell station now has the new ultra low # 2.   Inside the
station, they had a Shell pamphlet of Q  A about ULSD-much of what has
been covered on this list. But there was a caveat about using it in pre
2007 diesel engines mentioning  premature fuel leakage, filter failure,
etc, etc. (I don't have the exact quotes as my dog ate the brochure. )
So my question is-is this just lawyer talk to cover themselves, or
should I start to worry-esp. about the leaks.  And, if I should star to
monitor this, should I worry more about the 240D than the 300D?
Any references or studies would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dwight

Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.
Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + + miles-Green Goddess
1990 300D 2.5t, 135K miles-The Princess
Wickford, RI
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust

2006-10-30 Thread archer
Shouldn't you first ask for submissions of the most jalopical improvements 
to Mercedes and then take a vote?  I've heard descriptions of some on this 
group which would make any innovative mechanic proud.  Larry Ts Liquid Nails 
project will no doubt be among the top contenders because of its simplicity 
and the use of those ancient standbys of carpentry; liquid though they may 
be.

Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]



Let's all vote Larry T for Jaloponist of the Year with that amazingly
cost-effective solution.

On 10/28/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Thanks, Larry. I'll consider the liquid nails next.

Brian


On 10/28/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Don't know if this will work in your application, but my rear
 resonator/muffler/whatever it;s called had some pin holes in the 
 leading

 surface area - not wanting to spend the $300+ for a new one I tried
Liquid
 Nails Project Adhesive.  It comes out of the tube (like a caulk tube)
and
 I
 spread it and forced it into the holes.  Once it dried (about 2 hours
 IIRC)
 I started it (my 91 300D)  up and let the resonator get good and warm -
 the
 Liquid Nails has set up hard as concrete and after 3 months is still
 working
 fine.  This is the car my wife drives to work - ~110 mi RT.

 While it's drying I would not recommend starting the engine until its
had
 time to set up completely.  When it is no longer dented by a finger
nail,
 it's dry.

 A tube of Liquid Nails is ~$5 at W'mart or Home Depot, or lowes.

 Good luck -

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:31 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust


  Ahhh BTDT.
  Rather than JB Weld get a soup can (or green beans or whatever you
have)
  and some hose clamps. Cheaper (especially if you can get free hose
 clamps
  at the wreckers) and easier...
 
  -Curt
 
 
  -
  Want to start your own business? Learn how on  Yahoo! Small Business.
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
  --
  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.16/504 - Release Date:
  10/27/2006
 
 


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.17/505 - Release Date: 
10/27/2006








Re: [MBZ] FW: Ultra Low sulfur Diesel

2006-10-30 Thread Michael Hall

It is my understanding is that it is mostly lawyer talk to cover themselves
in the case of problems or even PERCEIVED problems that a switch to ULSD
would cause during the US switch.  This is based on a similiar experiance
with a switch in Europe.  At first, the techniques which had been used to
remove the sulfer were also removing or modifying lubricty agents in the
fuel - this problem was promptly discovered, and has been solved for quite
some time.  All ULSD will have the same or better lubricity as current #2,
without the addition of any type of fuel modifiers on the part of the
owners.  There is literature out there though that claims that ULSD DOES in
fact require lubricity additives; I believe the information they quote is
outdated.  It was the industries experiance, however, that they reicieved
alot of compliants from owners of older cars, would blame ANY type of
problem on the fuel, MOST of which were unfounded.  These types of
statements can only be made retrospectively though, since now there are very
little problems reported by European owners of olders cars.  However, a
large portion of older cars have fuel lines thats are know to go bad
otherwise.  I can only imagine the number of complaints from 98-99 E300D
owners regarding fuel leaks from using ULSD that will popping up on the
various MB lists.  The thing is, those cars are known for having weak
plastic fuel lines - on cars that still have the originals, at 7-8 years,
its probably the end of their useful life anyways!  So the companies selling
ULSD put out literature that protects them from people blaming their fuel
for any and all related fuel problems.  Printing even a couple million
packets is alot cheaper than even paying a hundred claims or getting
involved it 10 lawsuits.  So just put the fuel in the cars, and when you
have a fuel problem, consider how old your car and its fuel lines are before
rushing to judgement on ULSD.

Please note I havn't thouroughly checked all the facts on the issue, and
would welcome constructive criticisism if any of my statements contain
questionable facts.

Mike

On 10/30/06, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


At the risk of starting another fuel thread, I wanted to know more about
the ULSD.  I fueled up the 300D 2.5t Friday  ($2.59/gal) and noticed
that the Shell station now has the new ultra low # 2.   Inside the
station, they had a Shell pamphlet of Q  A about ULSD-much of what has
been covered on this list. But there was a caveat about using it in pre
2007 diesel engines mentioning  premature fuel leakage, filter failure,
etc, etc. (I don't have the exact quotes as my dog ate the brochure. )
So my question is-is this just lawyer talk to cover themselves, or
should I start to worry-esp. about the leaks.  And, if I should star to
monitor this, should I worry more about the 240D than the 300D?
Any references or studies would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dwight

Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.
Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + + miles-Green Goddess
1990 300D 2.5t, 135K miles-The Princess
Wickford, RI
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL

2006-10-30 Thread Jim Cathey

I bought 12,500 centistoke oil from thechemistrystore.com
Closest they had to the 6-7k oil that is supposedly what
you really need.  Maybe.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Next issue to sort out on rescued 79 240D

2006-10-30 Thread LarryT

Hi Kevin.
   Check the mixer valve assy on the firewall (located behind the trans 
dipstick on firewall) and check hose connections as Jim suggested.  Other 
than that I can't help - but I may have the WSM instructions I may be able 
to send to you, once I figure out how.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 8:47 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Next issue to sort out on rescued 79 240D



So I was driving the 240D the other night and needed to turn on the
defroster (it has manual controls) and I detected the sweet smell of
coolant. I can't recall, but I seem to remember that the heater core for
W123's is in a bad place, a place that's really hard to get to. The
coolant level hasn't plummeted since we've been driving the car so I'm
guessing the leak is small / minor.

So the question is, what to do? Do I try a stop leak product? If so, which
one is likely to give the best results? (Knowing that no stop leak product
is the best choice.) Or is the RR not as bad as I've been lead to
believe?

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi
79 240D 157k mi


___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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10/27/2006








[MBZ] back from RustyQ

2006-10-30 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Got back about midnight last night.  Thanks to Rusty for hosting another 
greaty party this year.  Now if we could just get him and Hurst out to 
an OkieQ...

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing

2006-10-30 Thread ts
Do a search on ebay too if you need citric acid.  I guess people use it in 
bubble baths and such.  I would not know I am married...
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 1:45 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Radiator flushing



component in commercial cleaning solutions. I buy the solid citric
acid in 10 lb. buckets from http://www.chemistrystore.com/ . Certainly
not the least expensive after you add in the shipping, but the
easiest.


I bought mine at a local (commercial) baking supply store.

-- Jim


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[MBZ] Americans... Remember to VOTE NEXT TUESDAY

2006-10-30 Thread Frank Pembleton
While walking down the street one day a US senator is tragically hit by a
truck and dies.

His soul arrives in heaven and is met by St. Peter at the entrance.

Welcome to heaven, says St. Peter. Before you settle in, it seems there
is a problem. We seldom see a high official around these parts, you see, so
we're not sure what to do with you.

No problem, just let me in, says the man.

Well, I'd like to, but I have orders from higher up. What we'll do
is have you spend one day in hell and one in heaven. Then you
can choose where to spend eternity.

Really, I've made up my mind. I want to be in heaven, says the senator.

I'm sorry, but we have our rules.

And with that, St. Peter escorts him to the elevator and he goes
down, down, down to hell. The doors open and he finds himself
in the middle of a green golf course. In the distance is a clubhouse
and standing in front of it are all his friends and other politicians
who had worked with him.

Everyone is very happy and in evening dress. They run to greet him, shake
his hand, and reminisce about the good times they had while getting rich at
the expense of the people.

They play a friendly game of golf and then dine on lobster, caviar
and champagne.

Also present is the devil, who really is a very friendly guy who
has a good time dancing and telling jokes. They are having such a
good time that before he realizes it, it is time to go.

Everyone gives him a hearty farewell and waves while the elevator
rises...

The elevator goes up, up, up and the door reopens on heaven where St. Peter
is waiting for him.

Now it's time to visit heaven.

So, 24 hours pass with the senator joining a group of contented souls moving
from cloud to cloud, playing the harp and singing. They have a good time
and, before he realizes it, the 24 hours have gone by and St. Peter returns.

Well, then, you've spent a day in hell and another in heaven. Now
choose your eternity.

The senator reflects for a minute, then he answers: Well, I would never
have said it before, I mean heaven has been delightful, but I think I would
be better off in hell.

So St. Peter escorts him to the elevator and he goes down, down,
down to hell.

Now the doors of the elevator open and he's in the middle of a
barren land covered with waste and garbage.

He sees all his friends, dressed in rags, picking up the trash and
putting it in black bags as more trash falls from above.

The devil comes over to him and puts his arm around his shoulder.
I don't understand, stammers the senator. Yesterday I was here
and there was a golf course and clubhouse, and we ate lobster and
caviar, drank champagne, and danced and had a great time. Now
there's just a wasteland full of garbage and my friends look miserable. What
happened?

The devil looks at him, smiles and says, Yesterday we were
campaigning.. Today you voted.

-- 




Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister

2006-10-30 Thread Rusty
$139.00 from me.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stuart Saxonberg
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 4:11 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister

So, I was changing my oil yesterday (w115 300D). 

 

Today, I topped it off and ran the make sure all the oil doesn't fall
out
check... and all the oil fell out.

 

Seems I've smashed up the lips on my oil filter canister pretty good, so
I'll be needing a new one.

 

Questions being:

 

Does Rusty have them? They're not obviously on the website,
but
I know that means little.

 

Or will it be time to call a recycler? If so, got any
suggestions?

 

How much is one likely to cost?

 

Thanks as always, guys.

 

Stuart S.

1976 300D w115

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Re: [MBZ] Americans... Remember to VOTE NEXT TUESDAY

2006-10-30 Thread LarryT

We can only hope this is true!

But I'll vote regardless -
;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Frank Pembleton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: MBZ mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 12:36 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Americans... Remember to VOTE NEXT TUESDAY



While walking down the street one day a US senator is tragically hit by a
truck and dies.

His soul arrives in heaven and is met by St. Peter at the entrance.

Welcome to heaven, says St. Peter. Before you settle in, it seems there
is a problem. We seldom see a high official around these parts, you see, 
so

we're not sure what to do with you.

No problem, just let me in, says the man.

Well, I'd like to, but I have orders from higher up. What we'll do
is have you spend one day in hell and one in heaven. Then you
can choose where to spend eternity.

Really, I've made up my mind. I want to be in heaven, says the senator.

I'm sorry, but we have our rules.

And with that, St. Peter escorts him to the elevator and he goes
down, down, down to hell. The doors open and he finds himself
in the middle of a green golf course. In the distance is a clubhouse
and standing in front of it are all his friends and other politicians
who had worked with him.

Everyone is very happy and in evening dress. They run to greet him, shake
his hand, and reminisce about the good times they had while getting rich 
at

the expense of the people.

They play a friendly game of golf and then dine on lobster, caviar
and champagne.

Also present is the devil, who really is a very friendly guy who
has a good time dancing and telling jokes. They are having such a
good time that before he realizes it, it is time to go.

Everyone gives him a hearty farewell and waves while the elevator
rises...

The elevator goes up, up, up and the door reopens on heaven where St. 
Peter

is waiting for him.

Now it's time to visit heaven.

So, 24 hours pass with the senator joining a group of contented souls 
moving

from cloud to cloud, playing the harp and singing. They have a good time
and, before he realizes it, the 24 hours have gone by and St. Peter 
returns.


Well, then, you've spent a day in hell and another in heaven. Now
choose your eternity.

The senator reflects for a minute, then he answers: Well, I would never
have said it before, I mean heaven has been delightful, but I think I 
would

be better off in hell.

So St. Peter escorts him to the elevator and he goes down, down,
down to hell.

Now the doors of the elevator open and he's in the middle of a
barren land covered with waste and garbage.

He sees all his friends, dressed in rags, picking up the trash and
putting it in black bags as more trash falls from above.

The devil comes over to him and puts his arm around his shoulder.
I don't understand, stammers the senator. Yesterday I was here
and there was a golf course and clubhouse, and we ate lobster and
caviar, drank champagne, and danced and had a great time. Now
there's just a wasteland full of garbage and my friends look miserable. 
What

happened?

The devil looks at him, smiles and says, Yesterday we were
campaigning.. Today you voted.

--


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10/27/2006







[MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not ambient temp) is cold

2006-10-30 Thread Christopher McCann
So I drove the 1985 300SD for 300 miles the other day. No problems.
  
  Next morning, I start the car, need to depress the accelerator to get  it to 
start (it was not cold out) and once started, if I left off the  pedal, it 
would stall. After holding it at normal idle for a minute or  so, it would idle 
at low speed, but not stall...unless I put it in  gear. Once the engine is up 
to operating temp, it idles perfectly  normally and there are no other 
problems...
  
  EXCEPT (this may or may not be related) about a year ago, the idle  started 
to slightly surge/pulsate until it got up to operating  temp...actually up to 
operating temp FOR A WHILE (like 15 minutes of  driving). This also is not 
effected by ambient temp.
  
  It was raining during the 300 miles of driving - doubt that had anything to 
do with it.
  
  It now does this every time I start it when the engine is cold. Ambient temp 
has nothing to do with it.
  
  Any ideas as to what is going on?
  
  Thanks,
  
  Chris
  
  
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 217K, Wulf
-1982 300Dt, 117K, little blue klatter box
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, One Banger
 
-
Everyone is raving about the  all-new Yahoo! Mail.
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Next issue to sort out on rescued 79 240D
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LarryT said:
 Hi Kevin.
 Check the mixer valve assy on the firewall (located behind the trans
 dipstick on firewall) and check hose connections as Jim suggested.  Other
 than that I can't help - but I may have the WSM instructions I may be able
 to send to you, once I figure out how.


I guess I should have mentioned in the original email that you will see a
small wet spot on the ground under the car and from taste, it's
antifreeze. So there is an external leak and I'd guess it's on the
firewall somewhere, but I've yet to try to pin it down. I guess more
detective work is in order.

...Kevin



Re: [MBZ] Americans... Remember to VOTE NEXT TUESDAY

2006-10-30 Thread Luther

Wow, that really makes me want to exercise my right to vote and be lied to.
Lovely.

--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car



Quoting Frank Pembleton [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


While walking down the street one day a US senator is tragically hit by a
truck and dies.

His soul arrives in heaven and is met by St. Peter at the entrance.

Welcome to heaven, says St. Peter. Before you settle in,

it seems there

is a problem. We seldom see a high official around these parts, you see, so
we're not sure what to do with you.

No problem, just let me in, says the man.

Well, I'd like to, but I have orders from higher up. What we'll do
is have you spend one day in hell and one in heaven. Then you
can choose where to spend eternity.

Really, I've made up my mind. I want to be in heaven, says the

senator.


I'm sorry, but we have our rules.

And with that, St. Peter escorts him to the elevator and he goes
down, down, down to hell. The doors open and he finds himself
in the middle of a green golf course. In the distance is a clubhouse
and standing in front of it are all his friends and other politicians
who had worked with him.

Everyone is very happy and in evening dress. They run to greet him, shake
his hand, and reminisce about the good times they had while getting rich at
the expense of the people.

They play a friendly game of golf and then dine on lobster, caviar
and champagne.

Also present is the devil, who really is a very friendly guy who
has a good time dancing and telling jokes. They are having such a
good time that before he realizes it, it is time to go.

Everyone gives him a hearty farewell and waves while the elevator
rises...

The elevator goes up, up, up and the door reopens on heaven where St. Peter
is waiting for him.

Now it's time to visit heaven.

So, 24 hours pass with the senator joining a group of contented souls

moving

from cloud to cloud, playing the harp and singing. They have a good time
and, before he realizes it, the 24 hours have gone by and St. Peter

returns.


Well, then, you've spent a day in hell and another in heaven. Now
choose your eternity.

The senator reflects for a minute, then he answers: Well, I would

never

have said it before, I mean heaven has been delightful, but I think I would
be better off in hell.

So St. Peter escorts him to the elevator and he goes down, down,
down to hell.

Now the doors of the elevator open and he's in the middle of a
barren land covered with waste and garbage.

He sees all his friends, dressed in rags, picking up the trash and
putting it in black bags as more trash falls from above.

The devil comes over to him and puts his arm around his shoulder.
I don't understand, stammers the senator. Yesterday I was

here

and there was a golf course and clubhouse, and we ate lobster and
caviar, drank champagne, and danced and had a great time. Now
there's just a wasteland full of garbage and my friends look miserable.

What

happened?

The devil looks at him, smiles and says, Yesterday we were
campaigning.. Today you voted.







Re: [MBZ] back from RustyQ

2006-10-30 Thread Tom Hargrave
Or we could get Jack-Daniels to move the date of their invitational BBQ so
that I could attend..

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:01 AM
To: Banned List; Mercedes Mailing List
Subject: [MBZ] back from RustyQ

Got back about midnight last night.  Thanks to Rusty for hosting another 
greaty party this year.  Now if we could just get him and Hurst out to 
an OkieQ...
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] Americans... Remember to VOTE NEXT TUESDAY

2006-10-30 Thread Rich Thomas
You'll get lied to either way, at least this way you get to pick the 
ones you want, more or less.


--R

Luther wrote:

Wow, that really makes me want to exercise my right to vote and be lied to.
Lovely.

  





Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust

2006-10-30 Thread Zoltan Finks

Well, to self-campaign:

I have discovered that my JB Weld is holding my pipe to the body of my
cylidrical muffler (despite rust). I applied it to the ends of the
pipe first, then shoved it in, then liberally applied it around the
diameter. Then used two beer cans, crushed to the correct height, to
prop up the pipe as it dried for about a day.

Nice and quiet today.

JB Weld, I think, is 2.xx dollars.

Brian

On 10/30/06, archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Shouldn't you first ask for submissions of the most jalopical improvements
to Mercedes and then take a vote?  I've heard descriptions of some on this
group which would make any innovative mechanic proud.  Larry Ts Liquid Nails
project will no doubt be among the top contenders because of its simplicity
and the use of those ancient standbys of carpentry; liquid though they may
be.
Gerry

- Original Message -
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Let's all vote Larry T for Jaloponist of the Year with that amazingly
 cost-effective solution.

 On 10/28/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks, Larry. I'll consider the liquid nails next.

 Brian


 On 10/28/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Don't know if this will work in your application, but my rear
  resonator/muffler/whatever it;s called had some pin holes in the
  leading
  surface area - not wanting to spend the $300+ for a new one I tried
 Liquid
  Nails Project Adhesive.  It comes out of the tube (like a caulk tube)
 and
  I
  spread it and forced it into the holes.  Once it dried (about 2 hours
  IIRC)
  I started it (my 91 300D)  up and let the resonator get good and warm -
  the
  Liquid Nails has set up hard as concrete and after 3 months is still
  working
  fine.  This is the car my wife drives to work - ~110 mi RT.
 
  While it's drying I would not recommend starting the engine until its
 had
  time to set up completely.  When it is no longer dented by a finger
 nail,
  it's dry.
 
  A tube of Liquid Nails is ~$5 at W'mart or Home Depot, or lowes.
 
  Good luck -
 
  Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
  www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
  Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
  PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
  Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
  Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
  .
  - Original Message -
  From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 9:31 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust
 
 
   Ahhh BTDT.
   Rather than JB Weld get a soup can (or green beans or whatever you
 have)
   and some hose clamps. Cheaper (especially if you can get free hose
  clamps
   at the wreckers) and easier...
  
   -Curt
  
  
   -
   Want to start your own business? Learn how on  Yahoo! Small Business.
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Re: [MBZ] Partly OT - cold air into exhaust

2006-10-30 Thread Zoltan Finks

Oh, then there's the gluing of my dash trim, (some of which was bowed
out and hanging off, and some of which was all the way off), using a
mixture of dollar store super glue and Gorilla Glue (owing to the
super glue's quick bonding time, and the Gorilla's better long term
bonding strength).

The $5.xx price of the Gorillla is going to hurt me here.

Brian

I hope the purpetrator of the clothes hanger antenna doesn't chime in.



Re: [MBZ] Next issue to sort out on rescued 79 240D

2006-10-30 Thread Curt Raymond
As I think of it my '83 240D used to once in awhile put the sweet smell of 
antifreeze into the air now and again, usually after a long period of not using 
it. Usually went away in a few minutes. Never got any worse in the 3 years I 
had the car.

I HATE stops leaks. Only good for plugging thermostats.

-Curt

 
-
 Check out the New Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things 
done faster. 
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To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
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Subject: [MBZ] Columbus CL 300TE
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http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/227757628.html

Thought a lister wanted this?

-- 
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister

2006-10-30 Thread R A Bennell
Must be an item that is seldom damaged and thus needed. I bought the oil pan 
and it did not cost anywhere near that
much.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:40 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister


$139.00 from me.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stuart Saxonberg
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 4:11 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister

So, I was changing my oil yesterday (w115 300D).



Today, I topped it off and ran the make sure all the oil doesn't fall
out
check... and all the oil fell out.



Seems I've smashed up the lips on my oil filter canister pretty good, so
I'll be needing a new one.



Questions being:



Does Rusty have them? They're not obviously on the website,
but
I know that means little.



Or will it be time to call a recycler? If so, got any
suggestions?



How much is one likely to cost?



Thanks as always, guys.



Stuart S.

1976 300D w115

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister

2006-10-30 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

used ones are much cheaper

R A Bennell wrote:


Must be an item that is seldom damaged and thus needed. I bought the oil pan 
and it did not cost anywhere near that
much.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:40 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister


$139.00 from me.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stuart Saxonberg
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 4:11 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister

So, I was changing my oil yesterday (w115 300D).



Today, I topped it off and ran the make sure all the oil doesn't fall
out
check... and all the oil fell out.



Seems I've smashed up the lips on my oil filter canister pretty good, so
I'll be needing a new one.



Questions being:



Does Rusty have them? They're not obviously on the website,
but
I know that means little.



Or will it be time to call a recycler? If so, got any
suggestions?



How much is one likely to cost?



Thanks as always, guys.



Stuart S.

1976 300D w115

___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



[MBZ] Hibernation

2006-10-30 Thread R A Bennell
Last Thursday was a pretty nice day here and I am glad that I took advantage of 
it. I took the afternoon off and my
mother and I went for a ride in the old 300D. We did a circle tour of part of 
southern Manitoba. Went from Winnipeg
out southwest through Carman and then west past Stephenfield and then south to 
Manitou so that we could see the
wind generation farm again, then west from Manitou through LaRiviere to Pilot 
Mound (or at least close to it), then
north through Holland all the way to Austin, then east through Portage la 
Prairie (where we stopped for supper) and
then on back east to Winnipeg on highway 1. Left about 1:30 and back home about 
7:00 so about 5 1/2 hours with
about 5 hours in the car. Only about 235 miles but mostly 2 lane back roads. 
Very little traffic on most of it. A
few school buses around the time the kids were getting out of school. Lots of 
traffic going both ways on #1 after
supper but that is 4 lane so not as much concern about lousy drivers. Winnipeg 
sits in a broad river valley and is
pretty flat so it is the better part of an hour's run before the terrain gets 
more interesting. Gets quite pretty
once you are out an hour or more southwest. Rolling hills and farms. Can see 
why people will live out there even
though it is a bit remote. Mom is from Ontario and has seen little of Manitoba 
west of Winnipeg. She quite enjoyed
the afternoon. (She is 74 and in good health.)

Can ran well - never missed a beat. 65 mph most of the time. A bit noisier than 
our newer vehicles and the seats
are a bit hard but really amazing for its age.

I planned to pull the plates and switch to storage insurance as of Oct 31 
anyway but today it is snowing here and
messy out so I wouldn't have driven it today anyway. Snow may well stay now as 
it is cold enough to do so. Glad
that I took the time to do the run on Thursday as it has not been as good 
since. Will need to fire it up once more
to warm it a bit and then change the oil but apart from that it is done until 
spring.

Randy




Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister

2006-10-30 Thread R A Bennell
Gee, he says tongue in cheek, I wonder where one could get a used one?

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 3:16 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister


used ones are much cheaper

R A Bennell wrote:

 Must be an item that is seldom damaged and thus needed. I bought the oil pan 
 and it did not cost anywhere near
that
 much.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty
 Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:40 AM
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister


 $139.00 from me.

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stuart Saxonberg
 Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 4:11 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister

 So, I was changing my oil yesterday (w115 300D).



 Today, I topped it off and ran the make sure all the oil doesn't fall
 out
 check... and all the oil fell out.



 Seems I've smashed up the lips on my oil filter canister pretty good, so
 I'll be needing a new one.



 Questions being:



 Does Rusty have them? They're not obviously on the website,
 but
 I know that means little.



 Or will it be time to call a recycler? If so, got any
 suggestions?



 How much is one likely to cost?



 Thanks as always, guys.



 Stuart S.

 1976 300D w115

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 ___
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[MBZ] OT, router

2006-10-30 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
How do I get into my wireless Linksys router?  No, I am not stupid, I 
know how to do it, but cant seem to.  See, what happened, is the 
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave 
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless 
router.  So the internet is managed from the dlink, and wireless access 
in the house via the linksys.  I can get into the dlink, ie 192.168.0.1. 
 Cant get into the linksys.  The old address to get into it was 
192.168.1.1 I believe but that doenst get it.  The PC that is wired is 
hooked directly to the dlink so the only thing hooked to the linksys is 
the connection from the other router.  Today I moved the PC connection 
to the linksys, still gets internet access that way etc but still will 
not get into the router.  Point is, I need to get back into it to secure 
the wireless access portion.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister

2006-10-30 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Oh, I might have them maybe if one would want me to check, perhaps.

R A Bennell wrote:


Gee, he says tongue in cheek, I wonder where one could get a used one?

Randy



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] OT, router

2006-10-30 Thread Michael Hall

I know my D-Link wireless provides an option for remote access; to set it up
though, you need to connect to it.  If I understand your setup correctly,
there are 2 ways you could accomplish this with your linksys, assuming its
similiar to my D-link.  The first would be hook a computer directly into the
linksys, and manage it that way.  If its ethernet port is broken though,
you'll need to access to D-link and use port forwarding to set up a port to
the IP of the linksys, then access it that way.  IE, set up port 12345 on
the D-link to forward to the IP that corresponds to the Linksis, then access
the linksis by going to 192.168.0.1:12345

Catch all that?

Mike

On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


How do I get into my wireless Linksys router?  No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to.  See, what happened, is the
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless
router.  So the internet is managed from the dlink, and wireless access
in the house via the linksys.  I can get into the dlink, ie 192.168.0.1.
  Cant get into the linksys.  The old address to get into it was
192.168.1.1 I believe but that doenst get it.  The PC that is wired is
hooked directly to the dlink so the only thing hooked to the linksys is
the connection from the other router.  Today I moved the PC connection
to the linksys, still gets internet access that way etc but still will
not get into the router.  Point is, I need to get back into it to secure
the wireless access portion.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



Re: [MBZ] OT, router

2006-10-30 Thread Gary Hurst

i don't know, but send me those damn pictures from saturday

On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


How do I get into my wireless Linksys router?  No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to.  See, what happened, is the
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless
router.  So the internet is managed from the dlink, and wireless access
in the house via the linksys.  I can get into the dlink, ie 192.168.0.1.
Cant get into the linksys.  The old address to get into it was
192.168.1.1 I believe but that doenst get it.  The PC that is wired is
hooked directly to the dlink so the only thing hooked to the linksys is
the connection from the other router.  Today I moved the PC connection
to the linksys, still gets internet access that way etc but still will
not get into the router.  Point is, I need to get back into it to secure
the wireless access portion.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



Re: [MBZ] OT, router

2006-10-30 Thread Trampas
Kaleb,

Connect just the wireless, linksys, to the PC and nothing else. Then hit
reset button linksys and try 192.168.0.1 and 192.168.1.1, one of them should
work. 

With the netgear in loop it may not route the 192.1.68.1.1 to the linksys
correctly. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 4:29 PM
To: Mercedes Mailing List
Subject: [MBZ] OT, router

How do I get into my wireless Linksys router?  No, I am not stupid, I 
know how to do it, but cant seem to.  See, what happened, is the 
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave 
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless 
router.  So the internet is managed from the dlink, and wireless access 
in the house via the linksys.  I can get into the dlink, ie 192.168.0.1. 
  Cant get into the linksys.  The old address to get into it was 
192.168.1.1 I believe but that doenst get it.  The PC that is wired is 
hooked directly to the dlink so the only thing hooked to the linksys is 
the connection from the other router.  Today I moved the PC connection 
to the linksys, still gets internet access that way etc but still will 
not get into the router.  Point is, I need to get back into it to secure 
the wireless access portion.
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] OT, router

2006-10-30 Thread Bob Rentfro

Pictures? From Saturday? I wanna see

Bob Rentfro

- Original Message - 
From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT, router



i don't know, but send me those damn pictures from saturday

On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


How do I get into my wireless Linksys router?  No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to.  See, what happened, is the
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless
router.  So the internet is managed from the dlink, and wireless access
in the house via the linksys.  I can get into the dlink, ie 192.168.0.1.
Cant get into the linksys.  The old address to get into it was
192.168.1.1 I believe but that doenst get it.  The PC that is wired is
hooked directly to the dlink so the only thing hooked to the linksys is
the connection from the other router.  Today I moved the PC connection
to the linksys, still gets internet access that way etc but still will
not get into the router.  Point is, I need to get back into it to secure
the wireless access portion.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] OT, router

2006-10-30 Thread Gary Hurst

mine came with a disk . it said install this disk before connecting

then i connected

now i have wireless over my vast holdings


On 10/30/06, Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Kaleb,

Connect just the wireless, linksys, to the PC and nothing else. Then hit
reset button linksys and try 192.168.0.1 and 192.168.1.1, one of them
should
work.

With the netgear in loop it may not route the 192.1.68.1.1 to the linksys
correctly.

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 4:29 PM
To: Mercedes Mailing List
Subject: [MBZ] OT, router

How do I get into my wireless Linksys router?  No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to.  See, what happened, is the
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless
router.  So the internet is managed from the dlink, and wireless access
in the house via the linksys.  I can get into the dlink, ie 192.168.0.1.
Cant get into the linksys.  The old address to get into it was
192.168.1.1 I believe but that doenst get it.  The PC that is wired is
hooked directly to the dlink so the only thing hooked to the linksys is
the connection from the other router.  Today I moved the PC connection
to the linksys, still gets internet access that way etc but still will
not get into the router.  Point is, I need to get back into it to secure
the wireless access portion.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[MBZ] Flex disk change

2006-10-30 Thread Redghost
Gump has decided to destroy her rear flex disk.   I am thinking about 
what else I need for my Rusty order.  Should I do the whole drive shaft 
with center bearing and both disk?



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Flex disk change

2006-10-30 Thread kevin kraly
Wow!  How did you catch it in time before it vibrated things to pieces!? 
i've heard of anything from broken transmissions and difs and the driveshaft 
itself being destroyed by a bad blex disk.  I've never replaced one on the 
cars I've owned, so I guess I've been lucky.


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 





Re: [MBZ] Flex disk change

2006-10-30 Thread Bob Rentfro

I recall it being a kind of growl/whrrr/vibe thing.
You'll know.

Bob Rentfro

- Original Message - 
From: kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Flex disk change



Wow!  How did you catch it in time before it vibrated things to pieces!?
i've heard of anything from broken transmissions and difs and the 
driveshaft

itself being destroyed by a bad blex disk.  I've never replaced one on the
cars I've owned, so I guess I've been lucky.

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] OT, router

2006-10-30 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
yea sort of.  I did hook a computer directly to the linksys and still 
could not access it though.


Michael Hall wrote:


I know my D-Link wireless provides an option for remote access; to set it up
though, you need to connect to it.  If I understand your setup correctly,
there are 2 ways you could accomplish this with your linksys, assuming its
similiar to my D-link.  The first would be hook a computer directly into the
linksys, and manage it that way.  If its ethernet port is broken though,
you'll need to access to D-link and use port forwarding to set up a port to
the IP of the linksys, then access it that way.  IE, set up port 12345 on
the D-link to forward to the IP that corresponds to the Linksis, then access
the linksis by going to 192.168.0.1:12345

Catch all that?

Mike

On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


How do I get into my wireless Linksys router?  No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to.  See, what happened, is the
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless
router.  So the internet is managed from the dlink, and wireless access
in the house via the linksys.  I can get into the dlink, ie 192.168.0.1.
 Cant get into the linksys.  The old address to get into it was
192.168.1.1 I believe but that doenst get it.  The PC that is wired is
hooked directly to the dlink so the only thing hooked to the linksys is
the connection from the other router.  Today I moved the PC connection
to the linksys, still gets internet access that way etc but still will
not get into the router.  Point is, I need to get back into it to secure
the wireless access portion.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] OT, router

2006-10-30 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Yea, Im going to get those up on okiebenz soon.

Gary Hurst wrote:


i don't know, but send me those damn pictures from saturday

On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


How do I get into my wireless Linksys router?  No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to.  See, what happened, is the
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless
router.  So the internet is managed from the dlink, and wireless access
in the house via the linksys.  I can get into the dlink, ie 192.168.0.1.
Cant get into the linksys.  The old address to get into it was
192.168.1.1 I believe but that doenst get it.  The PC that is wired is
hooked directly to the dlink so the only thing hooked to the linksys is
the connection from the other router.  Today I moved the PC connection
to the linksys, still gets internet access that way etc but still will
not get into the router.  Point is, I need to get back into it to secure
the wireless access portion.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] OT, router

2006-10-30 Thread Michael Hall

Then your Ethernet port may in fact be broken, unless other drivers software
are necessary to access the router as someone else has suggested.  Most user
manuals are available online, try to find out if thats the case.  If not,
you may have to use the port forwarding.

Mike

On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


yea sort of.  I did hook a computer directly to the linksys and still
could not access it though.

Michael Hall wrote:

 I know my D-Link wireless provides an option for remote access; to set
it up
 though, you need to connect to it.  If I understand your setup
correctly,
 there are 2 ways you could accomplish this with your linksys, assuming
its
 similiar to my D-link.  The first would be hook a computer directly into
the
 linksys, and manage it that way.  If its ethernet port is broken though,
 you'll need to access to D-link and use port forwarding to set up a port
to
 the IP of the linksys, then access it that way.  IE, set up port 12345
on
 the D-link to forward to the IP that corresponds to the Linksis, then
access
 the linksis by going to 192.168.0.1:12345

 Catch all that?

 Mike

 On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

How do I get into my wireless Linksys router?  No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to.  See, what happened, is the
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless
router.  So the internet is managed from the dlink, and wireless access
in the house via the linksys.  I can get into the dlink, ie 192.168.0.1.
  Cant get into the linksys.  The old address to get into it was
192.168.1.1 I believe but that doenst get it.  The PC that is wired is
hooked directly to the dlink so the only thing hooked to the linksys is
the connection from the other router.  Today I moved the PC connection
to the linksys, still gets internet access that way etc but still will
not get into the router.  Point is, I need to get back into it to secure
the wireless access portion.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



Re: [MBZ] OT, router

2006-10-30 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
What I ended up doing just now was taking the dlink out of the picture, 
hooking up to the linxsys, and hitting the rest button.  I could then go 
in and change my wireless settings etc like I want.  Hooked both back 
upo again and reboot them.  No internet and cant get into the dlink. 
Took the linksys out of the loop, reboot the dlink now I have internet 
and can get into the dlink router.  Hooked linksys back up, reboot both, 
can get internet hooked to either router.  Assuming wireless portion 
will work.  Now cant get into linksys but thats OK since I was able to 
change what I needed to change.


Michael Hall wrote:

Then your Ethernet port may in fact be broken, unless other drivers software
are necessary to access the router as someone else has suggested.  Most user
manuals are available online, try to find out if thats the case.  If not,
you may have to use the port forwarding.

Mike

On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


yea sort of.  I did hook a computer directly to the linksys and still
could not access it though.

Michael Hall wrote:



I know my D-Link wireless provides an option for remote access; to set


it up


though, you need to connect to it.  If I understand your setup


correctly,


there are 2 ways you could accomplish this with your linksys, assuming


its


similiar to my D-link.  The first would be hook a computer directly into


the


linksys, and manage it that way.  If its ethernet port is broken though,
you'll need to access to D-link and use port forwarding to set up a port


to


the IP of the linksys, then access it that way.  IE, set up port 12345


on


the D-link to forward to the IP that corresponds to the Linksis, then


access


the linksis by going to 192.168.0.1:12345

Catch all that?

Mike

On 10/30/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



How do I get into my wireless Linksys router?  No, I am not stupid, I
know how to do it, but cant seem to.  See, what happened, is the
internet port on the router went out supposedly so my wireless IP gave
me a d-link router(not wireless) and piggy backed it to my old wireless
router.  So the internet is managed from the dlink, and wireless access
in the house via the linksys.  I can get into the dlink, ie 192.168.0.1.
Cant get into the linksys.  The old address to get into it was
192.168.1.1 I believe but that doenst get it.  The PC that is wired is
hooked directly to the dlink so the only thing hooked to the linksys is
the connection from the other router.  Today I moved the PC connection
to the linksys, still gets internet access that way etc but still will
not get into the router.  Point is, I need to get back into it to secure
the wireless access portion.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Flex disk change

2006-10-30 Thread Redghost

I was stupid and lucky.

Drove about 85 miles with it like that at highway speeds.  Got home and 
took a peek to see if the muffler was busted since the noise was on 
acceleration at higher speed.  No low speed noise, but get into third 
and get noise.


Not quite all shredded, but on the way.  The front disk looks fine, as 
does the center bearing.


On Oct 30, 2006, at 2:53 PM, kevin kraly wrote:

Wow!  How did you catch it in time before it vibrated things to 
pieces!?
i've heard of anything from broken transmissions and difs and the 
driveshaft
itself being destroyed by a bad blex disk.  I've never replaced one on 
the

cars I've owned, so I guess I've been lucky.

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon




--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Flex disk change

2006-10-30 Thread Redghost
Really sounded like I had blown out the exhaust and was having flaming 
fuel blowing out the underside of the car.  A growly, rumbly thing


On Oct 30, 2006, at 2:58 PM, Bob Rentfro wrote:


I recall it being a kind of growl/whrrr/vibe thing.
You'll know.

Bob Rentfro

- Original Message -
From: kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Flex disk change


Wow!  How did you catch it in time before it vibrated things to 
pieces!?

i've heard of anything from broken transmissions and difs and the
driveshaft
itself being destroyed by a bad blex disk.  I've never replaced one 
on the

cars I've owned, so I guess I've been lucky.

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz