Re: [MBZ] I guess 126 seats will fit in a 116?
I dont know, is this something you came up with? Steve MacSween wrote: So you believe me now, doya? Mac on 11/24/06 7:32 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was talking about the fact that 126 seats will fit in a 116. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] I guess 126 seats will fit in a 116?
He probably just converted the 126 seats to manual. Steve MacSween wrote: Yebbut where are the controls? I don't see them anywhere in the pics. Weird. Maybe he just put 126 boxes/pads/covers onto the original w116 seats? They do look nice tho. Mac on 11/24/06 6:23 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: interesting, this opens up possibilities http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/1/4/85899014.htm ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OT Big uptick in spam
Our subscriber lists are not sold or provided to any 3rd parties. David Brodbeck wrote: Zoltan Finks wrote: And that's just how it used to be for me with gmail. But it's changed recently. Hmmm. The great they have got my number somehow. Posting to mailing lists tends to eventually have that effect. Some people keep a separate account for things like mailing lists and newsgroups, for that reason. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Non MB Diesel Question
Jim Cathey wrote: totally OT question - how did that electronic OD work? My guess is the usual: a bolt-on planetary gear with a solenoid to engage/disengage a clutch on the outside. A planetary gear, with nothing pinned down, doesn't change the gear ratio. That's basically it, as far as my limited understanding goes. It was manufactured by Laycock, so Googling Laycock overdrive will probably find a description of its internals. The same unit was used on Triumph TR4s and some other cars. I can't quite visualize how it works; I get lost somewhere in all the talk about Sprague clutches and such. In stock form there's a 4th gear interlock switch to prevent it from engaging in any gear but 4th. I'm told bypassing the switch isn't a good idea as the overdrive doesn't take the greater torque in lower gears very well. Also, trying to back up with it engaged is said to destroy it almost instantly. Interestingly enough, early versions of the owner's manual say that clutching while shifting the overdrive is unnecessary, but suggest pushing the clutch in slightly to smooth the shift. Later versions unequivocally recommended pushing the clutch in fully. Perhaps there were some wear issues with unclutched shifts? Mine was a bit worn, which made it slow to engage, but it worked very well otherwise. The 4-speed plus overdrive is said to be sturdier and longer-lived than the conventional 5-speed that followed. Apparently the 5-speed had some lubrication issues.
Re: [MBZ] OT Big uptick in spam
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Our subscriber lists are not sold or provided to any 3rd parties. No, but spambots still find web archives and such to harvest addresses from.
Re: [MBZ] SLS suspension fluid substitutes
Mitch Haley wrote: pIs there an acceptable, readily available substitute for W201 SLS fluid?/ppI find it necessary to use the 16v for a daily driver this week. I put a used control valve in it, and now it goes up and down when I work the lever on the valve, and it holds base pressure. I want to get rid of my test fluid (universal farm hydraulic oil) and put in something close to what is supposed to be in there before I install the new accumulators. /ppIs it safe to use the tractor fluid for a few days? The stuff is kind of smelly, so I worry about it harming the rubber bladders in my accumulators. /ppI found an old message from Meade that suggested 5606A aviation fluid was the closest match, but it seems the stuff is outdated. Common stuff now if 5609, 5606B might be available, I think it superceded 5606A. My neighbor, the ex aircraft mechanic, suggested that 5606B was very much like Dexron, but I don't know if he was basing that on facts or just on them both being red and thin . ! He did say it had less viscocity loss than 5606A when warm. I'm thinking Dexron wouldn't be likely to damage the bladders in my new accumulators, but I'd like to be sure. /pp/ppMitch/pp1979 300SD/pp1986 2.3-16/pp1987 2.5 turbo/p From Dave Bruckmann: The MB fluid 000 989 91 03 is known as ZH-M. As a matter of interest, you can order the exact-equivalent Febi 2615 fluid from Rusty for about $9/Litre. Look under suspension on his website. Pentosin 11S supercedes 7.1 in VW/Audi applications. The 7.1 fluid is G-002-000-G and 11S is G-002-000 (no suffix). It says (on the 11S bottle) that it's not miscible with 7.1, but Audi service bulletins specifically indicate that 11S can be used in a 7.1 system (but not the reverse; 11S is a better fluid than 7.1; it's synthetic and has a higher flashpoint). Neither of them is the textbook-correct MB ZH-M fluid (mostly because of colour, I suspect!), but either will work in W123 applications. They are mineral based and won't attack seals etc. 11S meets the MB 345.0 spec vs ZH-M's 236.3 spec. Perhaps Marshall or someone with the TDM can look up whether that's the standard we're aiming for. You can check: http://www.pentosin.de/eng/products/chf/body_hydraulic.html As an aside, I'm currently running with Pentosin 11S in my wagon because I had some kicking around. The previous wagon ran Febi 6162, which is equivalent to Pentosin 7.1 fluid. If I were you I'd just order it from Rusty; it'll be way cheaper than the VW dealer, where they want about CDN$ 22/Litre for 11S. You can use VW mineral hydraulic fluid G002000, also known as Pentosin 11S. It is green, and should be available at any auto parts store or VW/Audi dealer. Usually between $10 and $20/litre, sold in 1L square steel cans. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Volvo diesel
I believe Volvo used a VW, or was it the Audi, 6 cylinder diesel which I have heard was not very bulletproof. VW truck engine. RLE
Re: [MBZ] SLS suspension fluid substitutes
I found this reference: James, You and others with MB hydraulic suspension systems may be interested in knowing that the original service data that came with my 85 300 TD states that Aeroshell Fluid 4 can be used in this system. Aeroshell Fluid 4 is known in the aviation community as 5606 fluid because it meets mil spec 5606H (obsolete). There are a number of suppliers of 5606H fluid, including Royal Lubricants and Texaco. The FBO at the airport quoted me $ 12 per gallon for Aeroshell Fluid 4. How's that compare with MB fluid pricing? Jim Grillot Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Volvo diesel
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I believe Volvo used a VW, or was it the Audi, 6 cylinder diesel which I have heard was not very bulletproof. VW truck engine. Lots of problems with their 1st generation aluminum heads!! Many failed after 100-150kmi. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Volvo diesel
I believe Volvo used a VW, or was it the Audi, 6 cylinder diesel which I have heard was not very bulletproof. VW truck engine. We got one of these for my wife to drive around 1984 or 1985--it was a six cylinder VW truck engine, may have been a direct injection engine as it was noisy as hell in the winter and smoked like crazy on cold startup--the neighbors did not like it. We kept it through the first winter and got rid of it. Peter Ferguson 1983 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Volvo diesel
I have owned several D24s, and they last forever if well maintained, but are not bulletproof by any means. I have never seen one have head problems unless they were severely overheated, but they have tons of small coolant hoses which can burst easily when old. I replaced mine with brass elbows and straight sections of standard size coolant hose, instead of paying the $500 to Volvo for all new hoses. I still managed to blow the oil to water oil-cooler and overheat the motor, and I am going to install a new head soon on mine. I think this is the case with any engine using an aluminum head on an iron block, but most engines have much less coolant hoses The rings seem to wear out before 100k miles if you use non-synthetic oil of the factory recommended viscosity, but people who run 5w30 Mobil 1 seem to have virtually no ring wear after several hundred thousand miles. I do not understand why this is, but do not ever use non-synthetic in one of these. There are a lot of myths out there about how awful the D24 diesel is, but most of them are only true when compared to the longevity and bulletproofness of the Volvo red block gasoline engines. There are many people who have driven them over a million miles without rebuilds on non-synthetic oil. The D24T is smooth, powerful, low maintenance, and will get over 30mpg when tuned properly with a manual transmission. Tyler Backman On Nov 25, 2006, at 5:32 PM, Marshall Booth wrote: Lots of problems with their 1st generation aluminum heads!! Many failed after 100-150kmi. Marshall
Re: [MBZ] Volvo diesel
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 Sounds like it had bad glow plugs, wrong oil, or incorrect timing. Mine starts quietly (for an pre-combustion chamber diesel) and instantly with very little smoke in cold weather. Tyler On Nov 25, 2006, at 5:51 PM, P. D. Ferguson wrote: We got one of these for my wife to drive around 1984 or 1985--it was a six cylinder VW truck engine, may have been a direct injection engine as it was noisy as hell in the winter and smoked like crazy on cold startup--the neighbors did not like it. We kept it through the first winter and got rid of it. Peter Ferguson 1983 300TD -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.5 (Darwin) iD8DBQFFaPYyt178NxI/higRArBIAJ9Gx/vfm2NkyXQp+3/WP+yIrIDnZgCfYicT ObF2w4EQxiC+errr42j4NhM= =ed0N -END PGP SIGNATURE-
Re: [MBZ] SLS suspension fluid substitutes
pIt appears that any 5606 fluid would be OK, I might be able to find 5606G or 5606H./ppSynthetic and veggie oils seem to be verboten. /ppIf I can't find 5606, I'll just stick with the RO hydraulic fluid I have on hand, it might be better than ATF. Looks like it would be in my best interest to eventually flushamp;fill with a LHM type fluid, probably get 2-3 liters of Febi from Rusty. (search buymbparts.com for part # 0009899103)/ppI found this in a Citroen FAQ:/pphttp://www.citroen-ca.com/faq.html/ppfont color=#ff3. Can I use Dextron II instead of the Citroen LHM?/font /ppifont color=#00Yes and no. Dextron II, like any other mineral-based hydraulic oil, can be used as an emergency alternative to the Citroen LHM fluid. However, it is not recommended that Dextron II be used on a long-term basis. Dextron II differs from LHM in several ways. First, Dextron II is red instead of green - sounds minor, but you wouldn't believe how many mechanics assume it's brake fluid because of the oil's color. Second, Dextron II is a higher viscosity oil than LHM - this causes all your hydraulic components to react slower than the thinner LHM. Thirdly, Dextron II uses a lot of detergents that will react adversely with any rubber seals and o'rings in the Citroen hydraulic system. Finally, and most importantly, Dextron II is a very abrasive oil (put some between your fingers - it feels gritty) that will actually wear down moving metal components. Past experience has even shown us that any Citroen that has used Dextron II for more than 30,000 miles can not go back to LHM. The Dextron II will have worn down the Citroen's hydraulic system to a point that it will still function (barely) with the Dextron II (because of the oil's higher viscosity) but will have massive internal leakage when changed back to the thinner LHM. /font/i/p
[MBZ] 124 rear axle CV joint repair advice?
I'm getting occasional crunch noises from what appears to be the left rear axle CV joints, and would like to learn more about what is involved in repairing/replacing worn parts. For example, how much work is involved in disassembly; what special tools are required; any special techniques that would suggest that an experienced M-B mechanic should be used? And if one side needs repair, is the recommended approach to do both sides? I assume that Rusty would have all the requisite parts, but knowing what to order so as to put the car up on a lift only once would be a big help. The car is a 1990 300D 2.5, with 226k miles. TIA, Werner 1990 300D 2.5 226k 1983 300SD 222k
Re: [MBZ] SLS suspension fluid substitutes
On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 21:29:19 -0500 Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: /ppI found this in a Citroen FAQ:/pphttp://www.citroen-ca.com/faq.html/ppfont color=#ff3. Can I use Dextron II instead of the Citroen LHM?/font /ppifont color=#00 Say, Mitch, why the HTML code in text messages all of a sudden? Craig
[MBZ] Calling Kevin Kraly
Kevin, How far are you from Eugene? I may be headed out there next week. Craig
Re: [MBZ] Calling Kevin Kraly
I'm about 100 miles north of Eugene in Hillsboro. Kevin in Hillsboro Oreogn 1983 300SD 284K miles, Ursula, soon to have NICE COMFY SEATS!
Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axle CV joint repair advice?
I'm getting occasional crunch noises from what appears to be the left rear axle CV joints, and would like to learn more about what is involved in repairing/replacing worn parts. For example, how much work is involved in No special tools required to replace a bad half-axle with a good used one. Widely considered the best approach to a repair. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Calling Kevin Kraly
On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 21:09:49 -0800 kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm about 100 miles north of Eugene in Hillsboro. That's a ways, all right. Thanks, Craig
[MBZ] Glow plugs and smoke
Okay, I know this is diesel 101 stuff, but: Can having one or more bad glow plug cause your engine to smoke - even when the engine is warmed up? I believe I may have a bad glow plug, because the glow plug light sometimes takes between 3 and 5 seconds to come on when I turn the key to ignition position. When it comes on, it stays on like normal and I can start the engine, but it may take a second try. Prior to the unusual g.p. light activity, this engine started first time every time. Last evening after dark, as I took off from a stop light, I noticed that the vehicle was producing a significant amount of smoke, and I don't think that it normally does. (83 240D) Brian 83 240D
[MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Recently as I was on vacation at a nice resort in Sedona, I noticed that one of the batch of new Mercedes Benzes in the parking lot had its left hand parking light on most of the day, and all night. I'm assuming that the light control switch is the same as it is on the older models (MB seems to keep many things the same in terms of interior equipment, which is really interesting to me). And it's quite easy when turning off the headlights to turn the switch one click too far, resulting in this embarrassing condition. Tonight as we drove, we saw a new MB on the highway in front of us and it had an extra red light on on the driver side rear (inboard from the running lamps in the tail light assy, these were the light assys. in the trunk lid). We assumed the boo boo was taking place. But later I realized we were probably wrong, because they had their headlights on, and so I don't know what this red light on the driver side was, besides distracting. I caught my wife making the boo boo the other day too. Any of you out there relate? Brian 83 240D
[MBZ] SD vs. SDL
The designation SDL sounds familiar, as does SEL. But I couldn't tell you what sets them apart from the SD and the SL. More specifically, I'll mention that my wondering whether there was such thing as an SDL was ended tonight in a mall parking lot when I saw an one. Looked to be mid to late 80s. Of course long wheel base and top of the line-looking, including headlight wipers. So is the SDL simply a top of the line SD? Brian 83 240D bottom of the line, and lovin' it
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Yes, Brian! My dad tends to do it on a regular basis, and only notices it upon returning to the car. It's a good thing that the battery doesn't drain quickly when this happens! I've gotten better at reminding him of it as we get out of the car, but if not, I can't see it to let him know that he's done it again! Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 1983 300SD 284K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] SD vs. SDL
So is the SDL simply a top of the line SD? It's an S class diesel long wheelbase (SDL. SEL means S class einspritzer (gasser fuel injected) long wheelbase. Any cars without the L designation (300SD, 300SE, 380SE etc are short wheelbase models. I don't believe that there are such designations clearly badged on Mercedes vehicles anymore. Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 1983 300SDS 284K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] Glow plugs and smoke
Brian, NEVER judge what you see out of the tailpipe at night as being a problem! What you see at night is the same as what you DON'T see in the daylight. If you see that much smoke in the daytime, LOOK INTO IT. It's normal. Jeff Zedic Toronto
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Brian, I'm surprised you're asking this question as you've been here long enough to know a rear fog lamp when you see one!! Jeff Zedic Toronto
Re: [MBZ] SLS suspension fluid substitutes
Say, Mitch, why the HTML code in text messages all of a sudden? Because my ISP changed my preferences in their @(%@ webmail and I didn't know it. My computer had a major user induced failure Monday, and I haven't been able to recover my WinXP system restore files because many services, like RPC and Help, refuse to load. Telephony can't load either, so I'm off the net on my main computer and don't have regular email.
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Yes, Brian! My dad tends to do it on a regular basis, and only notices it upon returning to the car. It's a good thing that the battery doesn't drain quickly when this happens! Methinks you need an audible alarm (ding-ding-ding) when the driver's door is open and one of the parking lamps is powered. My Taurus does it when the key is in the ignition or the headlight switch isn't off.
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Ha. Yeah, Jeff, I've been here a spell now, but I don't know much about the new MBs, and I'll be the first to admit that there's a mega-ton that I don't know - period - especially compared to some of the veritable gurus here. When I don't know, I ask questions. I thought fog lamps would be amber, not red. And why would just one side be lit? Bear in mind that I've found it useful in life sometimes to ask questions that may sound stupid. It's often the quickest path to the answer. This, unfortunately, irritates some folks, but I do always have a purpose in mind. I wonder if it would be useful to have a beginner's-list and a seasoned-list? Those seasoned-folks that felt charitable enough to read the beginner's list could provide us with help, and the rest could be free from newbie questions. But until that takes place I guess we all have to grin and bear eachother. Brian On 11/26/06, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Brian, I'm surprised you're asking this question as you've been here long enough to know a rear fog lamp when you see one!! Jeff Zedic Toronto ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
My Taurus does it when the key is in the ignition or the headlight switch isn't off. He does this with our Dodge pickup that also has the audible alarm. He accidentally turns on the cargo light which can't be seen due to the camper shell (canopy for us in the PNW). He couldn't figure out why it was dinging the first time it happened. I guess I'd better get the canopy wired so that the cargo light switch powers up that light along with the one on the cab as it is suppose to. Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 1983 300SD 284K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
I didn't know about the red rear fog lamps either, and I've been on this list for 4 years now. I guess I'll never see the LIGHT! Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 1983 300SD 284K miles, Ursula
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
the rear fog light is a European thing - pull out the headlight knob once for front fog lights, pull again for rear. On 11/26/06, kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I didn't know about the red rear fog lamps either, and I've been on this list for 4 years now. I guess I'll never see the LIGHT! Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 1983 300SD 284K miles, Ursula ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Sunil wrote the rear fog light is a European thing - pull out the headlight knob once for front fog lights, pull again for rear. And its an annoyingly American thing to leave fogs on all the time, even when there isn't fog for 500 miles. Seems people think hey look, I have fog lights and am kool. And hey, if front fogs to blind the public are cool running the rear fogs is more cooler. Have no clue that 95% of fogs are almost perfectly useless, projecting a light pattern that doesn't do anything if going more then say 10-15MPH. On many cars (insert any Dodge or Pontiac I've driven) decorative only. Tony Wirtel
Re: [MBZ] Glow plugs and smoke
So...if you see increased smoking at idle during daylight hours what should be the first thing you look into? I've noticed a little increase lately... Bob Rentfro - Original Message - From: Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 1:46 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow plugs and smoke Brian, NEVER judge what you see out of the tailpipe at night as being a problem! What you see at night is the same as what you DON'T see in the daylight. If you see that much smoke in the daytime, LOOK INTO IT. It's normal. Jeff Zedic Toronto ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Where were you in Sedona, Brian? Bob R - Original Message - From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 2:45 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners Ha. Yeah, Jeff, I've been here a spell now, but I don't know much about the new MBs, and I'll be the first to admit that there's a mega-ton that I don't know - period - especially compared to some of the veritable gurus here. When I don't know, I ask questions. I thought fog lamps would be amber, not red. And why would just one side be lit? Bear in mind that I've found it useful in life sometimes to ask questions that may sound stupid. It's often the quickest path to the answer. This, unfortunately, irritates some folks, but I do always have a purpose in mind. I wonder if it would be useful to have a beginner's-list and a seasoned-list? Those seasoned-folks that felt charitable enough to read the beginner's list could provide us with help, and the rest could be free from newbie questions. But until that takes place I guess we all have to grin and bear eachother. Brian On 11/26/06, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Brian, I'm surprised you're asking this question as you've been here long enough to know a rear fog lamp when you see one!! Jeff Zedic Toronto ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Glow plugs and smoke
Zoltan Finks wrote: Okay, I know this is diesel 101 stuff, but: Can having one or more bad glow plug cause your engine to smoke - even when the engine is warmed up? I believe I may have a bad glow plug, because the glow plug light sometimes takes between 3 and 5 seconds to come on when I turn the key to ignition position. When it comes on, it stays on like normal and I can start the engine, but it may take a second try. Prior to the unusual g.p. light activity, this engine started first time every time. Last evening after dark, as I took off from a stop light, I noticed that the vehicle was producing a significant amount of smoke, and I don't think that it normally does. (83 240D) If the glow plug light does not come on the moment that you turn the key (THE FIRST TIME) then there is a failure of the preglow system that must be diagnosed and corrected. That's NOT what's causing smoke after the engine is warmed up (unless this condition has been present for many months or more)! You may have a defective electrical contact on the ignition switch or even a work linkage associated with the switch. You may have one or more intermittent glow plugs or a loose contact. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Glow plugs and smoke
Bob Rentfro wrote: So...if you see increased smoking at idle during daylight hours what should be the first thing you look into? I've noticed a little increase lately... Check air filter condition and timing chain stretch! A dirty air filter is a common cause in turbo diesels (and if bad enough in normally aspirated diesels) and timing chain stretch approaching 7-8 degrees WILL result in smoke. So can poor injector condition, incorrect valve clearances and poor compression. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Zoltan Finks wrote: Recently as I was on vacation at a nice resort in Sedona, I noticed that one of the batch of new Mercedes Benzes in the parking lot had its left hand parking light on most of the day, and all night. I'm assuming that the light control switch is the same as it is on the older models (MB seems to keep many things the same in terms of interior equipment, which is really interesting to me). And it's quite easy when turning off the headlights to turn the switch one click too far, resulting in this embarrassing condition. Tonight as we drove, we saw a new MB on the highway in front of us and it had an extra red light on on the driver side rear (inboard from the running lamps in the tail light assy, these were the light assys. in the trunk lid). We assumed the boo boo was taking place. But later I realized we were probably wrong, because they had their headlights on, and so I don't know what this red light on the driver side was, besides distracting. A bright red tail light on the left side is the rear fog light that is required in many European countries. They are present on many more recent Mercedes models and some older European models (my '85 Euro 190D has a rear left fog light illuminated when the headlight switch is pulled out TWO notches) Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] SD vs. SDL
Zoltan Finks wrote: The designation SDL sounds familiar, as does SEL. But I couldn't tell you what sets them apart from the SD and the SL. More specifically, I'll mention that my wondering whether there was such thing as an SDL was ended tonight in a mall parking lot when I saw an one. Looked to be mid to late 80s. Of course long wheel base and top of the line-looking, including headlight wipers. So is the SDL simply a top of the line SD? An S class car that's a diesel will be an SD and if the body is longer than the standard sedan an L is added to the designation (SDL). Thru 1985 all S class diesels were SDs. In '86-87 all the S class diesels were SDLs. In '90-'91 most were SDLs but a few SD were manufactured. I believe that all the W140 diesels were in the shorter chassis. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[MBZ] 1983 240D Cloth Seats
Does any one have a source for light blue cloth seats for 1983 240D? My new acquisition has been baking in the sun and needs some work. The driver seat is worn out, the rear deck and back of the back seat are crumbling. I would entertain purchasing good used if anyone has something they would like to get rid of. Thanks, Mike If anyone is interested: It is now roadworthy, slow and dependable. I am really enjoying it. I try to do most of the work myself with the help of this forum and Rusty as advisors. Mileage286,000 1983 Mercedes Benz 240D 4 door sedan WDBAB23A6DB415136 Color Blue Engine # 616912-10-358560 Interior Blue cloth Chassis # 123123-10-415136 $ 350.00 Valve specs Intake - cold .10mm/0.004 in Purchase Price 9/20/2006 Exhaust -cold .30mm/0.012 in Options Air Conditioning Cruise Control Power Locks Date Item Purchased From Installed by Parts cost Labor Cost Total 9/25/2006 New front brake calipers and pads - repack bearings Rusty Mike $ 235.00 $ - $ 235.00 9/29/2006 Repair tire and leaking fuel line Tim $ 118.00 $ 118.00 9/25/2006 Tow home - Uhaul dolly$ 50.00$50.00 10/3/2006 Tires - 195/70 R14 Radial TA Tim Tim $ 240.00$ 240.00 10/9/2006 Replace rusted out front Torsion bar and bushings All Benz Mike $ 160.00$ 160.00 10/10/2006 Replace driver side lower control arm bushings Rusty Mike $ 20.00$20.00 10/3/2006 Some fuel lines replaced and rear brake lines checked Tim $ 120.00 $ 120.00 10/9/2006 Replace front shocks rusty Mike $ 120.00$ 120.00 10/16/2006 Adjust valves and Throttle linkage Mike$ - Replace rear shocks Mike $ 110.00$ 110.00 Replaced window handles$ 20.00$20.00 replaced idle adjust knob$ 6.95$ 6.95 10/18/2006 Cooling System Flush Replace Anti Freeze Tim $ 30.00 $ 60.00 $90.00 anti freeze check $ - 10/17/2006 Repair fuel lines, replace in tank filter and new fuel line to filter Tim $ 30.00 $ 60.00 $90.00 10/20/2006 Replace main brake line to rear of car Mike $ 30.00$30.00 10/25/2006 Shift Boot (junk, doesn't stay on) Rusty Mike $ 11.57$11.57 10/25/2006 Drive shaft center support, bearing and boot Rusty Mike $ 50.00$50.00 10/25/2006 Replaced thermostat - It helped the heat a lot! Rusty Mike $ 22.09$22.09 10/25/2006 Tie rod assembly both sides inner and outer tie rods Rusty Mike $ 64.60$64.60 Lower Ball Joint - both sides and alignment Rusty Mr. Axle $ 40.00 $ 170.00 $ 210.00 Total $2,118.21
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
I thought fog lamps would be amber, not red. Nope, red. And why would just one side be lit? So as not to be mistaken for the brake lights in those intermittent not-quite-so-foggy patches. If it's not foggy, you shouldn't be using fog lights! (And don't get me started on that. The number of people who seem to be searching for lost contact lenses in front of their car at speed is truly bewildering.) I added a rear fog to our for-sale 450 SL. That took some doing. One or two of our cars came with them, such as the Frankenheap. I would have added it to the SDL, but its light switch has pins not screw contacts, and the pins for the rear fog function aren't there. It wasn't worth it to me to pursue buying a new light switch and perhaps socket, on top of all the rest of the work. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Yes, Brian! My dad tends to do it on a regular basis, and only notices it upon returning to the car. It's a good thing that the battery doesn't drain quickly when this happens! Methinks you need an audible alarm (ding-ding-ding) when the driver's door is open and one of the parking lamps is powered. My Taurus does it when the key is in the ignition or the headlight switch isn't off. Thus defeating the purpose of the all-night parking light. (A Euro thing.) Most MB's newer than the 70's already have the warning buzzer hooked to the parking light circuit. I'm sure with a little work the existing buzzer could be moved to the marker light settings instead. Maybe cutting a wire and putting in a couple of diodes behind the dash. IIRC, that parking function is pretty intimately associated with the light switch and not just a matter of moving a wire or two. One could also pursue rearranging the mechanical stop inside the switch itself to block off those two settings. Neither approach would be trivial. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] SD vs. SDL
The designation SDL sounds familiar, as does SEL. But I couldn't tell you what sets them apart from the SD and the SL. The S is german for luxury, C is coupe, E is fuel injection, D is diesel, and L is long. Unless you jam SL together, in which case it's Sport Light (and in the opinion of many, a complete misnomer. Perhaps Luxury Little?) Until they switched in the 90's and E meant middle, and C meant cheap. S kept its meaning, as did SL. So is the SDL simply a top of the line SD? SD's are also top of the line. SDL's are just stretched. It's a peculiarity (perhaps only in the US) that you could mostly buy only one length of car in a particular year. That's why the SDL's might be seen as a TOL SD, but that's only because the common SD's are older than the SDL's. When an SDL was available, you couldn't buy an SD, and vice-versa. Unless I've got all that wrong too! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Glow plugs and smoke
Can having one or more bad glow plug cause your engine to smoke - even when the engine is warmed up? Eventually, if the cylinder carbons up as a result. Months? -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] SD vs. SDL
FYI, D-C has been making the S class cars in both regular (note: NOT short) and long wheelbase versions for some time. MBUSA, in its infinite wisdom, selects what versions they import to the USA, which in some years is only the L. The latest S-class cars are available to others in the world in both wheelbase versions. And in Stuttgart, we were recently educated that they don't call the regular length cars short; they are the regular length. The difference is about 4 (10 cm). Werner - Original Message - From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 9:54 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] SD vs. SDL Zoltan Finks wrote: The designation SDL sounds familiar, as does SEL. But I couldn't tell you what sets them apart from the SD and the SL. More specifically, I'll mention that my wondering whether there was such thing as an SDL was ended tonight in a mall parking lot when I saw an one. Looked to be mid to late 80s. Of course long wheel base and top of the line-looking, including headlight wipers. So is the SDL simply a top of the line SD? An S class car that's a diesel will be an SD and if the body is longer than the standard sedan an L is added to the designation (SDL). Thru 1985 all S class diesels were SDs. In '86-87 all the S class diesels were SDLs. In '90-'91 most were SDLs but a few SD were manufactured. I believe that all the W140 diesels were in the shorter chassis. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Methinks you need an audible alarm (ding-ding-ding) when the driver's door is open and one of the parking lamps is powered. My Taurus does it when the key is in the ignition or the headlight switch isn't off. Thus defeating the purpose of the all-night parking light. (A Euro thing.) I don't think it defeats it. With the Taurus, if I WANT to leave the lights on, I just get out, close the door, and the alarm quits chiming. The trick is to only have the alarm function when the door is open.
Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axle CV joint repair advice?
Werner Fehlauer wrote: I'm getting occasional crunch noises from what appears to be the left rear axle CV joints, and would like to learn more about what is involved in repairing/replacing worn parts. For example, how much work is involved in disassembly; what special tools are required; any special techniques that would suggest that an experienced M-B mechanic should be used? And if one side needs repair, is the recommended approach to do both sides? I assume that Rusty would have all the requisite parts, but knowing what to order so as to put the car up on a lift only once would be a big help. The car is a 1990 300D 2.5, with 226k miles. To repair the CV joint is NOT for the faint of heart or for someone without considerable experience and skill with shop tools. Here's a site that describes what can be done: http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/ It is usually much more effective (and results in a better more reliable fix) to purchase good used axles from a reliable source (Potomac German Auto, etc.) and install them. Based on the reports I've assembled, rebuilt axles available today are NOT desirable/reliable. New ones are expensive. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] OT Big uptick in spam
The email addresses in the archives are changed so as to not be easily harvested. For example, instead of [EMAIL PROTECTED], its changed to kaleb at striplin.net. No, not 100% but does help cut down on the spammers. David Brodbeck wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Our subscriber lists are not sold or provided to any 3rd parties. No, but spambots still find web archives and such to harvest addresses from. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Also in may places illegal to run if there is no fog. Tony Wirtel wrote: Sunil wrote the rear fog light is a European thing - pull out the headlight knob once for front fog lights, pull again for rear. And its an annoyingly American thing to leave fogs on all the time, even when there isn't fog for 500 miles. Seems people think hey look, I have fog lights and am kool. And hey, if front fogs to blind the public are cool running the rear fogs is more cooler. Have no clue that 95% of fogs are almost perfectly useless, projecting a light pattern that doesn't do anything if going more then say 10-15MPH. On many cars (insert any Dodge or Pontiac I've driven) decorative only. Tony Wirtel ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 1983 240D Cloth Seats
MICHAEL ESH wrote: Does any one have a source for light blue cloth seats for 1983 240D? My new acquisition has been baking in the sun and needs some work. The driver seat is worn out, the rear deck and back of the back seat are crumbling. I would entertain purchasing good used if anyone has something they would like to get rid of. Thanks, Mike Cloth seats were not an option in the US so finding replacements, used or new is unlikely. Most of the available used seats will be MB-TEX with perhaps a few leather ones available. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axle CV joint repair advice?
Thanks, Marshall. The URL reference gave me a much better feel for what's involved. It seems that the only tool I don't have is the press, but it probably would still get done more quickly and with less grief if I take it to our local indy in New Jersey. (The local indy's advice was to just drive it until the noise gets to be continuous and just too much to tolerate, then fix it!) Werner - Original Message - From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 11:02 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axle CV joint repair advice? Werner Fehlauer wrote: I'm getting occasional crunch noises from what appears to be the left rear axle CV joints, and would like to learn more about what is involved in repairing/replacing worn parts. For example, how much work is involved in disassembly; what special tools are required; any special techniques that would suggest that an experienced M-B mechanic should be used? And if one side needs repair, is the recommended approach to do both sides? I assume that Rusty would have all the requisite parts, but knowing what to order so as to put the car up on a lift only once would be a big help. The car is a 1990 300D 2.5, with 226k miles. To repair the CV joint is NOT for the faint of heart or for someone without considerable experience and skill with shop tools. Here's a site that describes what can be done: http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/ It is usually much more effective (and results in a better more reliable fix) to purchase good used axles from a reliable source (Potomac German Auto, etc.) and install them. Based on the reports I've assembled, rebuilt axles available today are NOT desirable/reliable. New ones are expensive. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
At this time of year, I often drive with my front fogs on, and not to be kool or annoying. They really help me spot those spooked deer on country roads right after dusk. My 124's have the single rear fog (no benefit on clear nights), but I don't think my 123's do that trick. Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2 '85 300D '80 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
They [fogs] really help me spot those spooked deer on country roads right after dusk. How? If adjusted right they only light up a fan-shaped area in front of the car, such that if you were going any faster than that 10-15 MPH there's no way you could avoid anything that was lit by them anyway. I find them useful under conditions where I am tempted to roll the window down and stick my head out so that I can see better. -- Jim
[MBZ] When to use fog lights was Re: Funny boo boo among MB owners
I find them useful under conditions where I am tempted to roll the window down and stick my head out so that I can see better. Like rain storms. I struggle to even see where the road is without them Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT
[MBZ] OT - new Mini
Read this in an article about the new mini (2007) -- the Cooper (which is entry level even in Europe until they launch a new MINI One and a new MINI Diesel some time next year) The mini Diesel is what caught my eye! Wonder if it'll ever get to this side of the pond? http://autos.msn.com/advice/article.aspx?contentid=4024344 -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] 1983 240D Cloth Seats
Something like this question could provide a good test of the functionality of the online EPC. If you sign up for a month's subscription to the worldwide version you should be able to enter your VIN, go into parts lookup and let it tell you precisely the part number and color code for your seat covers. You could take that info down to your local dealer see if you can find a cooperative parts man who'll order from Germany, assuming of course that they have the right stuff still in inventory over there and that the price doesn't make you blanch. On a not unrelated note, does anybody by chance have a working link to that euro parts availibility/pricing page? Used to be http://wwwsg.daimlerchrysler.com/Projects/wi/cda/etpl?ETNR=A2012404317from=queryetpl_lang= , identified in my Favorites as Classic Ersatzteile, but this old link no longer functions. Hope they haven't abandoned that service altogether. -joe
Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality
Hi JimC, Hope you're out there ;-) I've pulled the intake and removed the GPs - tested them by attaching each in turn to a Batt chgr and all glowed red hot at the tip within ~12 sec. from the chart in the book that's pretty good - of course, they're all only about 4 weeks old. I wrote: preglow light goes out within 1 sec. of turning the key) You replied -- That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay. Ok, the relay was replaced 4 weeks ago also after it failed to light up the GPs one night when my wife wanted to come home. A new replay gets the GPs to light but the light goes out within 1 sec (about 1/5 sec) and it feels like only 4 GPs are preglowing. So, does this sound like enough testing to convince MB to replace the relay? I hate to buy another one (from Rusty this time) but if I have to so I'm sure it'll start and run properly I will. I tested the wiring between the relay and each GP - all have .4 ohms resistamce - don't know what else to test. What do you think? Should I just button things up? Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 11:33 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality Got my 2 new GPs today so tomorow I'll try to find out what the problem is. To refresh memory - I have new GPs and new GP relay - preglow light goes out within 1 sec. of turning the key) That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay. These things are likely NOS, not new-new, and the timing capacitor could have aged to death before you ever got it. I got my DMM out and set it to Resistance - using a new GP I touched the threads at the top and the threads that contact the cylinder head - got a reading of .3 - then I crossed the leads and the reading was .0 - is it OK that my DMM doesn't have a reading greater than .0? Yes, you just cross the leads to find out what its idea of zero is, and then subtract that from your reading. How do I tell if my DMM will measure current in the range you mentioned -- Was it exceedingly expensive? Then maybe. It's usually clearly written on the face somewhere, if it does current at all. I'm thinking I need at least a 30A max? But I think my DMM is good for 0A's - it's from Radio Shack -- Most DMM's have a 10A current scale, if they have anything at all. To measure more requires a shunt, rarely seen these days, or a relatively expensive clamp-on DC ammeter probe. Even my $300 Fluke only goes to 10A without the 400A external probe (another $200 IIRC). Attempts to measure more than 10A results in blowing its internal fuse, an item that costs more than an entire DMM from Harbor Freight. An old-fashioned charging gauge from the auto parts store could work, those are usually 60A over a half-scale, so are a bit too crude to get a good measurement off of. It would have detected my one bad one that had 2x normal current, however. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.13.23/513 - Release Date: 11/2/2006
Re: [MBZ] I guess 126 seats will fit in a 116?
Oh, puhleeze, you ragged my butt a few months back when I posted that it was possible. I mean, REALLY. Answer your eBay mail too. I sent you a question a week ago. Mac on 11/25/06 7:10 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I dont know, is this something you came up with? Steve MacSween wrote: So you believe me now, doya? Mac on 11/24/06 7:32 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was talking about the fact that 126 seats will fit in a 116. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axle CV joint repair advice?
Werner Fehlauer wrote: Thanks, Marshall. The URL reference gave me a much better feel for what's involved. It seems that the only tool I don't have is the press, but it probably would still get done more quickly and with less grief if I take it to our local indy in New Jersey. (The local indy's advice was to just drive it until the noise gets to be continuous and just too much to tolerate, then fix it!) The cost of having a professional try to REPAIR the CV joint/boot is more than replacing it because the job is quite labor intensive. Most independents stopped doing those 5-10 years ago and almost no dealers will repair them any more. When they can supply the labor free, some DIYers find the job satisfying (cost of parts are modest). Requires experience to know whether the joint will deliver reliable service after the boot is repaired. If the joint has torn and operated under conditions where any dirt can enter the joint, then the axle should be replaced as a scored/damaged socket can't be repaired so it will deliver reliable performance without the cost equaling/exceeding the cost off a new one. Used axle halves are a very good bet if purchased from a reliable source. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
we use them for spotting deer also. ours are adjusted properly and we seem to get some bounce that illuminates stuff along the edge of the road - not brightly but the deers eyes certainly light up. But it's more light bouncing than actually targeting the edge of the road. My wife comes home at night often and there's a LOT of deer around here - as most places - and after hitting one at 55 in our W123 we knew we never want to do it again. That time those it happened so fast there was no way to avoid him/her. Saw a flash of brown and the hood crumpled. Never saw anything coming - and I try to stay aware of things happening around me as I drive. Have a noice Sunday - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 12:15 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners They [fogs] really help me spot those spooked deer on country roads right after dusk. How? If adjusted right they only light up a fan-shaped area in front of the car, such that if you were going any faster than that 10-15 MPH there's no way you could avoid anything that was lit by them anyway. I find them useful under conditions where I am tempted to roll the window down and stick my head out so that I can see better. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.16/552 - Release Date: 11/26/2006
Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality
LarryT wrote: Hi JimC, Hope you're out there ;-) I've pulled the intake and removed the GPs - tested them by attaching each in turn to a Batt chgr and all glowed red hot at the tip within ~12 sec. from the chart in the book that's pretty good - of course, they're all only about 4 weeks old. I wrote: preglow light goes out within 1 sec. of turning the key) You replied -- That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay. Ok, the relay was replaced 4 weeks ago also after it failed to light up the GPs one night when my wife wanted to come home. A new replay gets the GPs to light but the light goes out within 1 sec (about 1/5 sec) and it feels like only 4 GPs are preglowing. So, does this sound like enough testing to convince MB to replace the relay? I hate to buy another one (from Rusty this time) but if I have to so I'm sure it'll start and run properly I will. I tested the wiring between the relay and each GP - all have .4 ohms resistamce - don't know what else to test. What do you think? Should I just button things up? Glow plug relays that sit on the self (or in a car) for months or years without power being applied to them often have timing problems. The capacitors that determine the timing seem to deteriorate and that leads to very short intervals. You MIGHT get perfectly good starting by allowing the plugs to glow for 5-10 seconds AFTER the light goes off before starting, but that's not an ideal solution - that assums that power to the plugs continues for the proper period after the lamp goes off and the post start glow function timing is proper. There was a TSB about cycling a preglow relay that exhibited foreshortened intervals about 10-12 times in a row (turn on the glow plugs and allow them to remain on until the relay cut off - and repeat 10-12 times - will likley run the battery down, but MAY revive the relay and timing MAY return to normal). This TSB (early/mid '80s as I recall) referred to new and used preglow relays that exhibited short timing intervals after being stored and not used for montns or years. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality
tested them by attaching each in turn to a Batt chgr and all glowed red hot at the tip within ~12 sec. from the chart in the book that's pretty good - of course, they're all only about 4 weeks old. That sounds good. A plug can still get hot yet draw out-of-spec current, possibly enough to PO the GP relay. But if all five acted exactly the same the chances of this are lessened. Ok, the relay was replaced 4 weeks ago also after it failed to light up the GPs one night when my wife wanted to come home. A new replay gets the GPs to light but the light goes out within 1 sec (about 1/5 sec) and it feels like only 4 GPs are preglowing. The light is hooked to a temperature-sensitive timer. The GP's are hooked to a _different_ timer. They have nothing to do with each other, except that both are started with the key. If all five GP's do not heat up, and stay heating for something like 90+ seconds before automatically cutting off, then the GP relay is defective. With good GP's, if the light does not obey the ambient temperature/time curve that's in the (some, anyway) manuals, then it is defective. I don't know what you mean about the 'feel' of 4 GP's. What do you think? Should I just button things up? If we have definitively diagnosed the relay, yes. Unless you want to dive into the relay's guts to try to repair it. Bad for warrantee issues, and you risk making things worse too. If you still have your old one, of course... There was a TSB about cycling a preglow relay that exhibited foreshortened intervals about 10-12 times in a row (turn on the glow plugs and allow them to remain on until the relay cut off - and repeat 10-12 times - will likley run the battery down, but MAY revive the relay and timing MAY return to normal). This TSB (early/mid '80s as I recall) referred to new and used preglow relays that exhibited short timing intervals after being stored and not used for months or years. This is SOP for reforming an electrolytic capacitor, since the days of vacuum tubes. It doesn't always work, of course, but is worth a try. To save your battery just unplug the GP harness. The timers should still do their cycling, which should do any possible reformation during that time. To _really_ reform a cap, you need to take it out of circuit. At that point, of course, you'd just replace it. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Non MB Diesel Question
Second best car Volvo made (the 740s are nicer). Very robust, non-interference engines, not many serious problems. Check for rust, they are all getting pretty old by now! Only real nasty job I know of is replacing ball joints on some models that have the retainer nut INSIDE the strut at the bottom, requires a very long exstension to get it out. Peter
Re: [MBZ] I guess 126 seats will fit in a 116?
And I sent you a reply. Check your email. Steve MacSween wrote: Oh, puhleeze, you ragged my butt a few months back when I posted that it was possible. I mean, REALLY. Answer your eBay mail too. I sent you a question a week ago. Mac on 11/25/06 7:10 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I dont know, is this something you came up with? Steve MacSween wrote: So you believe me now, doya? Mac on 11/24/06 7:32 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was talking about the fact that 126 seats will fit in a 116. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] help w/1984 300sd
Hi, i have a 1984 300sd that i recieved from my parents that have owned it since 1986 when they bought it. I am restoring to use as a daily driver, it has always been garage kept and is it great shape. I am doing some maintance on the vehicle and have purchased several parts for it including a new truck seal, glow plugs and a new upgraded relay from rusty, the shock for the steering wheel, brake pads and sensors, tranny filter, passanger side mirror(which i bought the a 5 plug one instead of the 4 plug one, if anyone has a 4 plug version i would be willing to trade it for) antenna, fuel tank screen. I am new to working on this car and if i could get some help as to how to install these parts or where to find instructions to install, i would really appreciate it. Emil Houston,TX. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Nov 26 20:43:47 2006 Received: from pop-borzoi.atl.sa.earthlink.net ([207.69.195.70]) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1GoQqo-0001q2-Uc for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Sun, 26 Nov 2006 20:43:47 + Received: from dialup-4.224.66.141.dial1.cincinnati1.level3.net ([4.224.66.141]) by pop-borzoi.atl.sa.earthlink.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1GoQoB-00047h-00 for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Sun, 26 Nov 2006 15:41:04 -0500 Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v622) In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed Message-Id: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 14:31:50 -0600 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.622) X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] Volvo diesel X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 20:43:47 - Its a six cylinder, 2.4L version of the one VW used. Audi/Volvo/VW design. Rotary pump is the weakest part, combined with rather extreme ignition advance cold that will bore out the top of the cylinders if driven at full throttle before the cold start device lets go. Otherwise, nearly bulletproof (crank driven oil pump, for instance). Very reliable except for that damned pump. Can be rebuilt a couple times, usually last 300,000 miles before the compression drops. Peter
Re: [MBZ] OT - new Mini
Interesting. Over the holiday I drove my brother-in-law's new Cooper S, and it is very fun. My brother drove it as well, and he is going to get one too. No wonder demand keeps growing. I also just read that VW is not including any diesels in their US 2007 line-up. They will be back in 2008. Chris K Cayce, SC Read this in an article about the new mini (2007) -- the Cooper (which is entry level even in Europe until they launch a new MINI One and a new MINI Diesel some time next year) The mini Diesel is what caught my eye! Wonder if it'll ever get to this side of the pond? http://autos.msn.com/advice/article.aspx?contentid=4024344
Re: [MBZ] Volvo diesel
Actually, with the four speed ZF tranny it gets between 31 and 33 mpg on the highway for. Cylinder head crack horribly, but can be welded, unlike the similar age Benz heads, which crack just as easily. Plastic radiator, too - luckily mine broke while I was setting the injection timing instead of on the highway. Peter
Re: [MBZ] SD vs. SDL
I'ts a bit more complicated. Benz only imported the SD model into the US from 1981 to 1985. 5 cylinder M617 engine. In 1986, they put the 603 six cylinder diesel in it, and only sold it as the SDL with the longer wheelbase (logic for this unknown). Stopped after the 1987 model year. The 86 and later cars have different headlights and some other changes. Easy discrimination: W126 SD will have a 617 5-cylinder 3.0L engine with rectangular flat headlights, SDL will be the 603 and have the semi-euro DOT slope fronted headlights with plastic surround. Peter
Re: [MBZ] Glow plugs and smoke
You will also see much more particulate matter at night, when it's lit from behind by the headlights of following cars. You would not see this in the daytime. Peter
Re: [MBZ] help w/1984 300sd
screen. I am new to working on this car and if i could get some help as to how to install these parts or where to find instructions to install, i would really appreciate it. Emil Houston,TX. You should also purchase the factory manual on CD. They're more for the experienced mechanic, yet are still plenty useful as there is some information that is available nowhere else (in print). -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] SLS suspension fluid substitutes
On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 04:36:03 -0500 Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Say, Mitch, why the HTML code in text messages all of a sudden? Because my ISP changed my preferences in their @(%@ webmail and I didn't know it. My computer had a major user induced failure Monday, and I haven't been able to recover my WinXP system restore files because many services, like RPC and Help, refuse to load. Telephony can't load either, so I'm off the net on my main computer and don't have regular email. Sorry you've had all the problems. Hope you get them straightened out quickly. Craig
Re: [MBZ] SD vs. SDL
There was a W126 350SD and 350SDL in 90 and 91 as well. (rod benders) On 11/26/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'ts a bit more complicated. Benz only imported the SD model into the US from 1981 to 1985. 5 cylinder M617 engine. In 1986, they put the 603 six cylinder diesel in it, and only sold it as the SDL with the longer wheelbase (logic for this unknown). Stopped after the 1987 model year. The 86 and later cars have different headlights and some other changes. Easy discrimination: W126 SD will have a 617 5-cylinder 3.0L engine with rectangular flat headlights, SDL will be the 603 and have the semi-euro DOT slope fronted headlights with plastic surround. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo diesel
I think the fuel economy depends on how you drive it. My experience is that the autos get under 30mpg, and the manuals get over (which is also consistent with their EPA fuel economy ratings). The autos do have a lockup torque converter, so should be similar to the manuals on the freeway. I'll second the comment about the rotary bosch injector pumps being crap compared to the mercedes type inline cam pumps. I wish there was a way to convert it over. Mine has an all brass radiator from the factory. I think there was a certain year where they switched over. If you want to talk more about the D24 you can join the D24 list and keep it off of the mercedes list: http://lists.subtend.net/mailman/listinfo/d24 There are some very knowledgeable people on there. Tyler Backman 1984 Volvo 760 Turbo Biodiesel 1974 Mercedes 240D 4spd, Biodiesel On Nov 26, 2006, at 12:34 PM, Peter Frederick wrote: Actually, with the four speed ZF tranny it gets between 31 and 33 mpg on the highway for. Cylinder head crack horribly, but can be welded, unlike the similar age Benz heads, which crack just as easily. Plastic radiator, too - luckily mine broke while I was setting the injection timing instead of on the highway. Peter
[MBZ] Benz Light Bulbs
How many Oxie Benz members does it take to change a light bulb? 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs 1 to move it to the Lighting section 2 to argue then move it to the Electricals section 7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs 5 to flame the spell checkers 3 to correct spelling/grammar flames 6 to argue over whether it's lightbulb or light bulb ... another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid 2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is lamp 15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that light bulb is perfectly correct 19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb forum 11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum 36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty 7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different light bulbs 4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URL's 3 to post about links they found from the URL's that are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs relevant to this group 13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add Me too 5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy 4 to say didn't we go through this already a short time ago? 13 to say do a Google search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs 1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it all over again. We are all human... nough' said -- Regards, Peter T. Arnold 1987 300SDL 255KMI FOR SALE! 1995 F-250 PowerChoke 196Kmi 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Thanks to wife's business trip, we were at the Hilton resort/spa in Oak Creek. Made our way into Sedona for hiking, dining, window shopping, fending off tourist information solicitors. Was good to be back in my native AZ. Brian On 11/26/06, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Where were you in Sedona, Brian? Bob R - Original Message - From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 2:45 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners Ha. Yeah, Jeff, I've been here a spell now, but I don't know much about the new MBs, and I'll be the first to admit that there's a mega-ton that I don't know - period - especially compared to some of the veritable gurus here. When I don't know, I ask questions. I thought fog lamps would be amber, not red. And why would just one side be lit? Bear in mind that I've found it useful in life sometimes to ask questions that may sound stupid. It's often the quickest path to the answer. This, unfortunately, irritates some folks, but I do always have a purpose in mind. I wonder if it would be useful to have a beginner's-list and a seasoned-list? Those seasoned-folks that felt charitable enough to read the beginner's list could provide us with help, and the rest could be free from newbie questions. But until that takes place I guess we all have to grin and bear eachother. Brian On 11/26/06, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Brian, I'm surprised you're asking this question as you've been here long enough to know a rear fog lamp when you see one!! Jeff Zedic Toronto ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SD vs. SDL
81-85 300SD will be the swb with the 5 cyl 3.0 617, 86-87 300SDL has the 603 6 cyl 3.0, 90-91 has the 350SD and 350SDL with the 603 6 cyl 3.5. Peter Frederick wrote: I'ts a bit more complicated. Benz only imported the SD model into the US from 1981 to 1985. 5 cylinder M617 engine. In 1986, they put the 603 six cylinder diesel in it, and only sold it as the SDL with the longer wheelbase (logic for this unknown). Stopped after the 1987 model year. The 86 and later cars have different headlights and some other changes. Easy discrimination: W126 SD will have a 617 5-cylinder 3.0L engine with rectangular flat headlights, SDL will be the 603 and have the semi-euro DOT slope fronted headlights with plastic surround. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] SD vs. SDL
oh yea, there is also the 78-80 w116 300SD Peter Frederick wrote: I'ts a bit more complicated. Benz only imported the SD model into the US from 1981 to 1985. 5 cylinder M617 engine. In 1986, they put the 603 six cylinder diesel in it, and only sold it as the SDL with the longer wheelbase (logic for this unknown). Stopped after the 1987 model year. The 86 and later cars have different headlights and some other changes. Easy discrimination: W126 SD will have a 617 5-cylinder 3.0L engine with rectangular flat headlights, SDL will be the 603 and have the semi-euro DOT slope fronted headlights with plastic surround. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality ('91 300D 2.5T W124)
Jim wrote:I don't know what you mean about the 'feel' of 4 GP's should have said it feels like its running on 4 cylinders out of 5. Also -when I tested the GPs with my Bat Chgr I should have mentioned it has a gauge on it - it was pegged at 15 amps on each trial. Don't know how accurate the gauge is - the charger is 20 years old. So I was able to test GP dc current draw after all - sort of. But I guess with it pegged it's not telling me much. BTW, I searched for a DMM that reads dc current to 30a or so and no one had them. I'll order one though. Marshalls suggestion about the TSB comment to cycle the relay to try and revive it is worth a try unless MB agrees to replace it - it's only 4-5 weeks old after all. I'll try to keep the battery from dieing. Also, I need to put a light on the GPs and see how many seconds they're staying on when cold. We're getting mid 30'sF in the morning so I should get a lengthy glow. I have to go to the dealer anyway to get the correct intake man gasket - they gave me a 6 cyl one by mistake. BTW, the wiring harness is in great condition - the car has 115000 babied miles on it and everything I come across as I work my way thru maint. items looks like its been well cared for or original. Thanks for everyong help - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 3:24 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality tested them by attaching each in turn to a Batt chgr and all glowed red hot at the tip within ~12 sec. from the chart in the book that's pretty good - of course, they're all only about 4 weeks old. That sounds good. A plug can still get hot yet draw out-of-spec current, possibly enough to PO the GP relay. But if all five acted exactly the same the chances of this are lessened. Ok, the relay was replaced 4 weeks ago also after it failed to light up the GPs one night when my wife wanted to come home. A new replay gets the GPs to light but the light goes out within 1 sec (about 1/5 sec) and it feels like only 4 GPs are preglowing. The light is hooked to a temperature-sensitive timer. The GP's are hooked to a _different_ timer. They have nothing to do with each other, except that both are started with the key. If all five GP's do not heat up, and stay heating for something like 90+ seconds before automatically cutting off, then the GP relay is defective. With good GP's, if the light does not obey the ambient temperature/time curve that's in the (some, anyway) manuals, then it is defective. I don't know what you mean about the 'feel' of 4 GP's. What do you think? Should I just button things up? If we have definitively diagnosed the relay, yes. Unless you want to dive into the relay's guts to try to repair it. Bad for warrantee issues, and you risk making things worse too. If you still have your old one, of course... There was a TSB about cycling a preglow relay that exhibited foreshortened intervals about 10-12 times in a row (turn on the glow plugs and allow them to remain on until the relay cut off - and repeat 10-12 times - will likley run the battery down, but MAY revive the relay and timing MAY return to normal). This TSB (early/mid '80s as I recall) referred to new and used preglow relays that exhibited short timing intervals after being stored and not used for months or years. This is SOP for reforming an electrolytic capacitor, since the days of vacuum tubes. It doesn't always work, of course, but is worth a try. To save your battery just unplug the GP harness. The timers should still do their cycling, which should do any possible reformation during that time. To _really_ reform a cap, you need to take it out of circuit. At that point, of course, you'd just replace it. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.16/552 - Release Date: 11/26/2006
Re: [MBZ] Non MB Diesel Question
The Volvo does indeed use an I5 VW/Audi designed Diesel engine that is not very bulletproof due to the fact that neither VW nor Audi had the need for an I5 with the V6 diesels Audi had in the European market. Volvo wanted to source a diesel from VW/Audi but was set on an inline design and needed more than the I4. So the Volvo engine, for lack of better explanation, is a VW I4 with an extra cylinder welded on. They didn't completely reengineer the engine or build from scratch. They took everything they knew about the I4, added a cylinder and sold it to Volvo as the I5. Which means carefully engineered oil paths, compression numbers, etc, were all stretched and no longer the same spec. Which caused the engine to exhibit problems. I'd love to find a Volvo Diesel of that age with a good engine still in it, like to tear it down and charcoal rub it against a VW I4. That's what I've been told by a mechanic that worked on primarily VW/Porsche, anyway. So take the info for what it is. Ed On 11/25/06, Robert Massmann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a neighbor that bought an older Volvo several years ago. It had a (5) cylinder VW diesel in it (?). He now has (2) more Volvos, one of which is a new 40 series. Robert Massmann Wilmington, Ohio 87 190D 2.5 Turbo On 11/25/06, John Freer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I believe Volvo used a VW, or was it the Audi, 6 cylinder diesel which I have heard was not very bulletproof. -- Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.
Re: [MBZ] help w/1984 300sd
Also - the dealer CDs are pretty expensive - there are usually some on eBay for $25USD or so. You have a lot of projects to tackle. Perhaps you could tell us the order you'd like to work so we provide the most timely info. I also suggest you switch to Mobil 1 synthetic oil and synthetic ATF. None of the jobs you mention are particularily difficult and we'll be happy to offer some help. What do you plan to do 1st? Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 3:51 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] help w/1984 300sd screen. I am new to working on this car and if i could get some help as to how to install these parts or where to find instructions to install, i would really appreciate it. Emil Houston,TX. You should also purchase the factory manual on CD. They're more for the experienced mechanic, yet are still plenty useful as there is some information that is available nowhere else (in print). -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.16/552 - Release Date: 11/26/2006
Re: [MBZ] OT - new Mini
On 11/26/06, Chris Kueny [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Interesting. Over the holiday I drove my brother-in-law's new Cooper S, and it is very fun. My brother drove it as well, and he is going to get one too. No wonder demand keeps growing. I also just read that VW is not including any diesels in their US 2007 line-up. They will be back in 2008. Chris K Cayce, SC The only non-truck diesel for 2007 is the MB Bluetec engine. Although, the interesting thing is, that GM has a Diesel engine in a Buick Rainer (330 hp, 4.5L V8) and Honda has a Diesel in an Accord (2.2L I4 140 hp) that has shown up in Automotive magazines as only text. No pics or anything. If the Buick Ranier is coming in 08 with a Diesel, I may have to drive by the local Generals Outfit in a couple years. -- Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Tony Wirtel wrote: Have no clue that 95% of fogs are almost perfectly useless, projecting a light pattern that doesn't do anything if going more then say 10-15MPH. On many cars (insert any Dodge or Pontiac I've driven) decorative only I used to think the fog light pattern was useless until I learned what it's for. The idea is not to illuminate objects down the road. It's to project a wide, flat beam of light that will illuminate the lane markings just in front of the car, without causing much backscatter glare. They're meant to be used when conditions are so bad that you're having trouble tracking where the road edges are. Besides fog, I find they're also sometimes useful in heavy rain, where spray from trucks and cars and overall poor contrast can make it very hard to see lane markings. Reflective road paint doesn't seem to reflect very well when it's wet. Using fogs in that situation seems to help me track my lane position better with my peripheral vision, so I can look farther down the road instead of having to stare just in front of the car. The best advice I ever heard for determining when to use a *rear* fog light is, Turn it on when you find yourself wishing the guy in front of you had his on so you could see him better.
Re: [MBZ] I guess 126 seats will fit in a 116?
There is nothing from you in my inbox or my eBay inbox. How did you reply, thru eBay or directly to me? Mac on 11/26/06 3:36 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: And I sent you a reply. Check your email. Steve MacSween wrote: Oh, puhleeze, you ragged my butt a few months back when I posted that it was possible. I mean, REALLY. Answer your eBay mail too. I sent you a question a week ago. Mac on 11/25/06 7:10 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I dont know, is this something you came up with? Steve MacSween wrote: So you believe me now, doya? Mac on 11/24/06 7:32 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was talking about the fact that 126 seats will fit in a 116. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Non MB Diesel Question
Ed Booher wrote: The Volvo does indeed use an I5 VW/Audi designed Diesel engine that is not very bulletproof due to the fact that neither VW nor Audi had the need for an I5 with the V6 diesels Audi had in the European market. I think you'll find it's a 2.4L I6, and VW used it in their LT line of light trucks (which were never sold in the U.S.) It's got more in common with the Audi I5 diesels than the I4, but there's a strong family resemblance in all of those engines.
Re: [MBZ] Volvo diesel
Peter Frederick wrote: Actually, with the four speed ZF tranny it gets between 31 and 33 mpg on the highway for. A word of warning about the ZF transmission. It has a known design flaw that can cause it to self-destruct if the engine is revved while in park. Fluid leaks internally and partially engages the clutches, so it ends up in park and partially in gear at the same time, burning it out. It's a pretty good transmission *if* you observe that caution. Prolonged idling in park is best avoided, as well.
Re: [MBZ] Non MB Diesel Question
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 I've heard this many times as well, but it seems to be a myth. The lubrication system works excellent, and was re-designed for the inline 6. These engines were used in large trucks, boats, and military vehicles built by VW, and are still in use today. Most of the parts are the same as other VW diesels, but that doesn't indicate a problem. The OM616 and 617 are identical except for an extra piston on the 617, but they both last a very long time. Here is a quote from Tom Bryant, who knows more about the D24T than anyone I've met: Look at it this way: The oil pump delivers the oil through a cast- in tube on the right side of the engine to the oil filter located in the *center* of that side. From there, the oil enters the center of the engine (at the center main bearing) splits, and flows both directions through mirror-image oil passages. Thus, the #1 rod bearing is just as far away from the oil source as is the #6 rod bearing. Those who allege that the #6 rod is somehow starved for oil due to excessive oil pressure loss in the supposedly greater distance traveled by the oil, or because of inadequate oil supply from the pump, simply don't know what they're talking about. I can state unequivocally and with sound engineering reasoning (I *am* a mechanical engineer by trade.) that the #6 rod bearing is just as well-supplied with oil as is the #1 rod bearing. When rebuilding these engines, I've never seen a #6 rod bearing that was in any worse condition than a #1, or a #2, 3, 4, or 5 for that matter. Tom On Nov 26, 2006, at 1:37 PM, Ed Booher wrote: The Volvo does indeed use an I5 VW/Audi designed Diesel engine that is not very bulletproof due to the fact that neither VW nor Audi had the need for an I5 with the V6 diesels Audi had in the European market. Volvo wanted to source a diesel from VW/Audi but was set on an inline design and needed more than the I4. So the Volvo engine, for lack of better explanation, is a VW I4 with an extra cylinder welded on. They didn't completely reengineer the engine or build from scratch. They took everything they knew about the I4, added a cylinder and sold it to Volvo as the I5. Which means carefully engineered oil paths, compression numbers, etc, were all stretched and no longer the same spec. Which caused the engine to exhibit problems. I'd love to find a Volvo Diesel of that age with a good engine still in it, like to tear it down and charcoal rub it against a VW I4. That's what I've been told by a mechanic that worked on primarily VW/Porsche, anyway. So take the info for what it is. Ed -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.5 (Darwin) iD8DBQFFahDSt178NxI/higRAsaGAKCewE5Fk9CMdPjonpXmYPxq5K065wCfZ7q1 GszSC0ApZ3iJ0tIAeFb2bas= =BN1m -END PGP SIGNATURE-
Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality ('91 300D 2.5T W124)
need to put a light on the GPs and see how many seconds they're staying on when cold. We're getting mid 30'sF in the morning so I should get a lengthy glow. Around freezing you should be seeing something like 30 seconds of glow. If you don't, just wait that long anyway before starting. It ought to start a lot better. (You don't need a functioning light to get a good start, if you know how long you're supposed to wait.) -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
Brian said he was: fending off tourist information solicitors. That's what stinks about going up to Sedona. They are everywhere...like rap artists. Bob Rentfro
Re: [MBZ] Glow plugs and smoke
AhhhHerr Dr, said the V workvalves you knuckleheads...I need to hook up with Mr. Jim and get it done these next days off. Danke, Herr Dr. Bob Rentfro - Original Message - From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 7:38 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow plugs and smoke Bob Rentfro wrote: So...if you see increased smoking at idle during daylight hours what should be the first thing you look into? I've noticed a little increase lately... Check air filter condition and timing chain stretch! A dirty air filter is a common cause in turbo diesels (and if bad enough in normally aspirated diesels) and timing chain stretch approaching 7-8 degrees WILL result in smoke. So can poor injector condition, incorrect valve clearances and poor compression. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Benz Light Bulbs
Ha Ha Ha, ROTFLMAO, etc. How true. You left out the side thread on whether or not to use bulb socket grease, and if so, which brand. AND - it's Okie, not Oxie -- On 11/26/06, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: How many Oxie Benz members does it take to change a light bulb? 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs 1 to move it to the Lighting section 2 to argue then move it to the Electricals section 7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs 5 to flame the spell checkers 3 to correct spelling/grammar flames 6 to argue over whether it's lightbulb or light bulb ... another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid 2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is lamp 15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that light bulb is perfectly correct 19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb forum 11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum 36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty 7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different light bulbs 4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URL's 3 to post about links they found from the URL's that are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs relevant to this group 13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add Me too 5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy 4 to say didn't we go through this already a short time ago? 13 to say do a Google search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs 1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it all over again. We are all human... nough' said -- Regards, Peter T. Arnold 1987 300SDL 255KMI FOR SALE! 1995 F-250 PowerChoke 196Kmi 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Benz Light Bulbs
Well, also missing from the list was whether or not to use synthetic or dino lube to facilitate proper insertion (now another thread?), or what the former would do to the gaskets(seals) if the fixture was made before 1967. Werner - Original Message - From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 5:39 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Benz Light Bulbs Ha Ha Ha, ROTFLMAO, etc. How true. You left out the side thread on whether or not to use bulb socket grease, and if so, which brand. AND - it's Okie, not Oxie -- On 11/26/06, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: How many Oxie Benz members does it take to change a light bulb? 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs
Re: [MBZ] Funny boo boo among MB owners
With a 1988 126 model, I find the (front) fog lights assist in seeing anything when its dark. The US DOT headlights are a poor excuse for lighting (as so many here have opined in the past). Like you, I use the fogs to help me see the edge of certain roads and when it is wet, for the same reason. As for rear fogs, the only real experience I have is as a driver behind someone who seems to think if fog lights should be on in the front, they should also be on in the back - especially when there is no fog! I was behind a Jaguar and then a Volvo with the rear fogs on. They were blindingly bright. Finally, I was forced to pull over to let someone else get a sunburn from them. Mark __ Mark E. Peneguy 420SEL, 217k New Orleans [EMAIL PROTECTED] David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I used to think the fog light pattern was useless until I learned what it's for. The idea is not to illuminate objects down the road. It's to project a wide, flat beam of light that will illuminate the lane markings just in front of the car, without causing much backscatter glare. They're meant to be used when conditions are so bad that you're having trouble tracking where the road edges are. Besides fog, I find they're also sometimes useful in heavy rain, where spray from trucks and cars and overall poor contrast can make it very hard to see lane markings. Reflective road paint doesn't seem to reflect very well when it's wet. Using fogs in that situation seems to help me track my lane position better with my peripheral vision, so I can look farther down the road instead of having to stare just in front of the car. The best advice I ever heard for determining when to use a *rear* fog light is, Turn it on when you find yourself wishing the guy in front of you had his on so you could see him better.
Re: [MBZ] I guess 126 seats will fit in a 116?
directly to you. Steve MacSween wrote: There is nothing from you in my inbox or my eBay inbox. How did you reply, thru eBay or directly to me? Mac on 11/26/06 3:36 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: And I sent you a reply. Check your email. Steve MacSween wrote: Oh, puhleeze, you ragged my butt a few months back when I posted that it was possible. I mean, REALLY. Answer your eBay mail too. I sent you a question a week ago. Mac on 11/25/06 7:10 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I dont know, is this something you came up with? Steve MacSween wrote: So you believe me now, doya? Mac on 11/24/06 7:32 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was talking about the fact that 126 seats will fit in a 116. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] help w/ 84 300sd
I would like to tackle the GP's and the relay 1st. The weather here got cold a little while ago, and i had a tough time starting the car and figured it had to be the GS's and while doing that i would upgrade the relay. I have no trouble startint the car when the weather is warm. My second item would be changing the tranny filter, fuel filters, pre-filter, and oil filter. After that would be the truck seal and antenna mounting( put new cd player in and sounds good, but can not pick up local stations with antenna in down position. I tried to lift it up manually and got it about 1/2 inch up and it pulled itself back down. Not sure if it is the switch or motor, but no mater what i put the switch on it doesn't get any responce from the atenna, no noise or anything.)
Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality ('91 300D 2.5T W124)
Jim wrote:should be seeing something like 30 seconds
of glow. If you don't, just wait that long anyway
That's what we've *been* doing since I replaced the GPs and relay - but I
want the preglow relay light to work properly. And it sounds like a new
relay will be needed to make that happen. I read the chart in the WSM
showing the various glow times needed and the curve showing the temp the GP
gets to after x seconds. it maxs out at 20 seconds and 1750F and while it
will maintain that temp if the GP stays on ot doesn't get any hotter. It
just stays hot longer.
It starts instantly - we count to 15 when it's cold and it always starts on
the 1st 1/2 revolution.
Even when it was around 15F it starts after 15 seconds of glowtime. Always
starts instantly.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality ('91 300D 2.5T W124)
need to put a light on the GPs and see how many seconds they're
staying on
when cold. We're getting mid 30'sF in the morning so I should get a
lengthy
glow.
Around freezing you should be seeing something like 30 seconds
of glow. If you don't, just wait that long anyway before starting.
It ought to start a lot better. (You don't need a functioning light
to get a good start, if you know how long you're supposed to wait.)
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.16/552 - Release Date:
11/26/2006
Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality ('91 300D 2.5T W124)
gets to after x seconds. it maxs out at 20 seconds and 1750F and while it will maintain that temp if the GP stays on ot doesn't get any hotter. It just stays hot longer. The extra heat goes into the engine. It's not wasted. Sounds like your GP's are working fine, only the light timer is wonky. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] help w/ 84 300sd
sounds good, but can not pick up local stations with antenna in down position. I tried to lift it up manually and got it about 1/2 inch up and it pulled itself back down. Not sure if it is the switch or motor, but no mater what i put the switch on it doesn't get any responce from the atenna, no noise or anything.) The switch takes the input from the radio (the blue wire) and feeds it to the antenna. If the radio wiring is bad, the antenna will never come up. That's the first place to start, see if the feed to the switch (blue) is good or not. -- Jim
