[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb
I happen to like the Sears Bias Ply tires and snow tires on the rear.
And the spare. Hey, it's only flat on one side!
Larry said...
You wrote about octane and detonation:
making it more likely to detonate rather than burn smoothly
across the chamber. In essence you are adding a heavier component to make
it burn slower to reduce the problem of detonation
Hi Royce,
Is that your way of saying the higher
Bought some new fuel return line from Rusty (the small diameter,
fabric-wrapped line that runs between the injectors) since several
sections of mine are damp with fuel. It looks like this is just a
push-on fit, but I tugged at one and it did not pull off. The fabric
seemed to be acting like a
Explain Grays? Both wing windows are there
Umm, they would be gray? In color.
are 1972 model year doors in that nasty cream/white color.
And that would be the answer. My doors are rusting badly,
but paint is outside of the realm of possibility.
I just parked it inside, for about the
I know we talked about something like this some time ago but...
A guy I know has an old v4 Saab (four stroke), he thinks its a 95 but he also
says its a sedan which makes me think its a 96. He's insistant its a v4 so I
don't think its a 99.
Anyway he wants $600 for it, its supposed to be in
in a word, quirky.
On 1/7/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If you don't get any input here, let me know, and I can post some
questions
to the Saab list if you'd like.
Brian
On 1/6/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I know we talked about something like this some time ago
I know this was touched upon in fairly recent times, but bear with me.
Basic issue: It involves my 240D which I am not going to drive until
sometime this late Spring when all the salt/sand is off the roads
Would it be better for the vehicle's health if I started it periodically? If
so, how
Would it be better for the vehicle's health if I let it sit undisturbed
until I intend to actually drive it? And why would it be better?
That is a relatively short time, if inside especially, for anything
but the battery and the fuel tank. And you have those covered.
I'm sure that'll be best
seemed to be acting like a chinese finger handcuff -- tightening as I
pulled. Do I need to cut off the old line, or is there some secret
technique to removing it? Or just pull harder?
Brute force. Just be sure not to nick or mar the hose fittings
when you do finally take pliers or a knife to
space. Detonation occurs when the fuel air mixture explodes...i.e.
burns
in multiple places at the same time. This can happen when the fuel
mixture
contains components that ignite much like a diesel..i.e. it reaches a
combustion temperature and pressure and cooks off. When that
happens,
Proper combustion in a spark ignition engine is for the spark to ignite
the air/fuel mixture at the correct time for peak pressure to occur a
few degrees after TDC, and for the fuel mixture to burn at the correct
rate for the flame front to consume the vast majority of the fuel
before being
Take a pair of good needle nosed pliers a grip the line off-center so
that it will tear off the nipple as you crush the part between the
jaws. A bit harder to describe than do, but what you want is to grab
enough of the hose beside the nipple to cause it to fail without
gouging into the
What was the number of the Sonett? Mine had the V4 ---
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Slice through the fabric, but not all the way through the rubber line
- twist a lot, pull, etc. -
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Would it be better for the vehicle's health if I started it periodically? If
so, how often?
- or -
Would it be better for the vehicle's health if I let it sit undisturbed
until I intend to actually drive it? And why would it be better?
I vote for undisturbed. Starting
I ended up with a wrecked '89 Audi 90 Quattro (w/diff lock) that I picked up
for $250. I stripped it down, and it needs a new front clip, but all the
damaged parts are bolt-on items, and can be easily found for cheap. Didn't
hit the frame rails and just smacked the cam sprocket and auxilliary
I did have a time with a couple of them on my 300D and 300CD. The 'cD had
the worst ones which were TOTALLY dried out and broke into pieces at the
slightest tug, of course, right at the barb! I picked at them gently with a
knife which did the trick. There's no Diesel smell under the hood of
I ended up with a wrecked '89 Audi 90 Quattro (w/diff lock) that I picked up
for $250.
Is this the one equipped with the 20 valve 5 banger? I can always tell when
one drives by, even the older 5000's. Diesel content: an Audi 5000 diesel
sounds like a thrashing machine compared to a
OK Don wrote:
What was the number of the Sonett? Mine had the V4 ---
I believe the wagon was the 95 and the sedan was the 96,
with the Sonnett III being 97. The early Sonnett may have
been 97 also. I thought the S-III (1970's) was a very cool
looking car, but the S-I (1960's) was just
Allan
a pair of 45 degree angle needle nose pliers is what I use. Kind of use a
grip, left and right spin, and pull move. When they pop off try not to have
the spaz reaction pliers kick back and hit the little beveled ends o the
injector nozzle. Also check that your 17 mm nuts (?) of your
The valve uses an electromagnet to drive the plunger up down. I wonder of
the thick steel washer is needed to complete the magnetic circuit? If so
then stainless steel will not work.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Peter,
THANK YOU for that illuminating explanation. I knew some of the basics, but
your explanation filled in a LOT of holeskind of a gestalt...to use the
German term ;-)
Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 293K
-Original Message-
From: Peter Frederick [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent:
Hi, Curt.
IF the car is truly rost frei and the transmission shifts properly,
the only other thing that might be needed is an exhaust. This is from
memory and CRS is creeping up on me. I've had 2 stroke and V4 96
sedans and a V4 95 wagon and a V4 97. You met Luke once and he has a
lot of
Thanks Royce,
You wrote:Detonation occurs when the fuel air mixture explodes...i.e.
burns
in multiple places at the same time. This can happen when the fuel
mixture
contains components that ignite much like a diesel..i.e. it reaches a
combustion temperature and pressure and cooks off.
Thanks Peter - for that excellent explanation/
On a similar topic - when a cylinder head uses twin plugs - like some
competition Porsches - when does the 2nd SP fire? At the same time as the
1st? Slightly afterward?
Thx -
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil
You wrote:cheap 2.5 turbo
With over 8 days remaining, I doubt it'll be cheap for long. ;-)
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info
Hi, OK Don, et al.
It was one of the first of the V4' Twos, red engine and nicely curved
bodywork, not that angular POS Three that required keyhole surgery
just to check to the oil. I had to do a clutch on a three, late model
black engine, what a pain in the fundament! I was (much) younger
What amazes me is how diesel is refined precisely so a pre-determined
ignition can be obtained allowing diesel to be used on everything from
a
Peterbuilt to a Isuzu Diesel. But I guess all diesels must operate
at/near
the same pressures.
Ha! Precise refining? How about thinly-strained
one drives by, even the older 5000's. Diesel content: an Audi 5000
diesel
sounds like a thrashing machine compared to a properly tuned Mercedes
diesel
Freudian slip? Probably you meant threshing machine, but I kind of
like the mental picture I got from what you said!
-- Jim
Ah, but there is no fuel in the cylinder until the injection pump
fires it in! This is the secret of diesels, and the basis of R.
Diesels patents.
Lister cylcle engines use compression ignition by atomizing diesel fuel
into the air and igniting it by compression of the mixture AND a spark,
check this out
Original Message
Subject: [Banned] Kaleb's long lost Uncle's Estate
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 19:48:35 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
_Click here: MillerAuction_
That I do not know -- I would GUESS that the most ignitable portion of
the fuel/air mix is in different locations in the cylinder under
different operating condition, and low power output/miss is a result
with a single plug. There might also be a quench area that prevents
proper flame
Yeah, those Audi/VW/Volvo diesel are noisy, especially at idle. The
worst offender is actually the vaccum pump, as the operating rod is in
two parts. They clack. It also has much more combustion noise, as the
prechambers are much smaller and more open.
It does turn out quite a bit of
OMG and my neighbours think I'M bad
That is fascinating but very, very sad.
Mac
on 1/7/07 11:58 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
check this out
Original Message
Subject: [Banned] Kaleb's long lost Uncle's Estate
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 19:48:35 EST
probably not. The most disturbing part of the car though is this model
is prewired for CD changer in the trunk. Why on earth would somebody
rip out the factory head unit and install that crappy aftermarket radio?
LarryT wrote:
You wrote:cheap 2.5 turbo
With over 8 days remaining, I doubt
If I were Kaleb, I would preface this with 'Bzzzt, wrong.' But I am not so
I won't.
The Lister engines available from India today use no spark. You open a
valve to relieve compression, turn the heavy flywheel until you get some
stored inertial energy, close the valve and open the fuel
you wrote:Why on earth would somebody rip out the factory head unit and
install that crappy aftermarket radio
Couldn't agree more! Actually, I'm fighting a similar problem w/my 91. I
want a changer and bought one that needed repair. It's been with SW Stereo
since last July waiting for
Well you dont need a becker silverstone changer, the alpine 611 and
several others will work just fine with the becker system. You have to
get a coupld of adapter from PIE but thats no big deal.
LarryT wrote:
you wrote:Why on earth would somebody rip out the factory head unit and
install
Well, after examining my rear calipers and finding both had damaged bleed
screws I decided to look at the front calipers. Sure enough, the flats in
the hex were damaged by what appears to have been pliers (!!). So, I tried
to unscrew them - got a wrench on them and tapped it with a very small
OK - Thanks! I'll contact PIE tomorrow and see how much a adapter will
cost.
Thanks again. BTW, is the Alpine 611 a current changer? Or has it been out
for a while ?
Hope, at last! ;-)
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test
Peter Frederick wrote:
It does turn out quite a bit of power, though, and is higher
compression (105 hp on 2.4L)
Is that the six cylinder?
105hp won't keep up with the BMW 2.4L, or a MBZ 602 five cyl.
I have seen a Volvo in one of the Finns' videos which seems
to be about as fast as the 603
Did you heat the fronts up frist? I know that feeling all to well, when you
think it breaks free, only to have the head of the nut or whatever fall off
in your hand. :-) Don't you just love fixing cars in the winter. hee hee
Zeb
On 07/01/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Well, after
LarryT wrote:
I tried to unscrew them - got a wrench on them and tapped it with a very
small hammer - slowly. Sure enough, just when I thought they had broken
loose then broke where they enter the caliper. #!!#$%## Says I.
You did hammer on them (like pounding in nails) to knock them
Yup. With the manual 5-speed its a racer, with the auto it's a bit
slow off the line, then pulls pretty hard. Smokey, though -- no one
will every wonder if you have your foot in it or not.
1983 design.
It's not been running for the last couple years -- wont' start, I think
I need the
I had a '74 Sonett III -- had to replace the heads shortly after I
bought it - yes, keyhole surgery is a good description! Other than the
two cracked heads, the only problem I had with the car was the water
temp activated automatic choke. It was a blast to drive - though it
would have been even
The Jacobs R755 that was in Dad's Cessna 195 had two plugs per
cylinder. Each set of plugs were fired by a seperate magnito - and
they were timed about two degrees apart, IIRC. The left mag at 6
degrees BTDC, and the right mag at 8 degrees BTDC, for example. I
don't remember the exact specs.
OK Don wrote:
I had a '74 Sonett III -- It was a blast to drive - though it
would have been even more fun with one of those turbo charged in-line
fours!
That would be a huge undertaking, and probably involve a substantial
hood bulge. The 2.8L Ford Capri V-6 bolted right up, just had
to
Ebay Item # 260073393513
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/45k-ORIGINAL-MILES-PRICE-TO-SELL-THE-BEST
_W0QQitemZ260073393513QQihZ016QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Donald H. Snook
1990 300SEL 133K
Peter Frederick wrote:
Diesels WILL run with a fuel/air mix, but there is no control over the
ignition timing that way. I know at least one person who had a VW
diesel get return holes in the head plugged up, and when the oil filled
the valve cover and spilled over into the intake on the
Yeah, right -- you KNOW that is what we all aspire to. But also maybe a
heated shed to work on them.
--R
Steve MacSween wrote:
OMG and my neighbours think I'M bad
That is fascinating but very, very sad.
Mac
Ah, THRESHING machine would describe it perfectly! I haven't heard one of
them 5000D's in quite a while, maybe they've all hit the boneyard by now.
MB content: Of course, there are plenty of MB diesels around, and I hope
that this is the case for many years to come.
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
On high compression diesels (above 19:1), propane can ignite BEFORE the
fuel is injected if the mixture is rich enough to be burnable. I would
not recommend propane fumigation on anything with a compression ratio
above 16:1 nor under high load with a turbocharger running, the risk of
I delayed in doing them on my 190D when they were merely seeping and then got
to do them when one fell off...
That one got held back on with a zip tie so I could make it home. All the
others were ready to fall off.
-Curt
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2007 00:49:01 -0800
From: kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Fri, 5 Jan 2007, Zoltan Finks wrote:
Yup. I know pumping is bad - my foot just wants to do it. I'ts like, come
on, baby, you can do it!
Yes, starting is an emotional thing with me ;) - nothing worse to me than
the sound of the starter running slower and slower. Need to get over it - I
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Is this a just kidding, or do you mean it literally? Just curious for
future reference.
It's one of the things you do to try to break a bleeder loose before
applying enough twisting force to break it in half.
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Is this a just kidding, or do you mean it literally? Just curious for
future reference.
It really does seem to help to tap on the end of a rusty bolt for a
while with a hammer. It breaks the rust bonds, or wakes up the sleeping
thread demons, or something.
Threshing, thrashing?
Gee!
I thought that the back seat of an Audi was the perfect place to find
a Lesser spotted double breasted mattress thrasher!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Please don't throw things.
At 03:27 PM 1/7/2007, you wrote:
Actually farmers regularly call threshing thrashing which is
Yep. Did that first. But honestly, the bleeders were so buggered up I was
afraid they'd crumble.
Now that I've had a while to think things over, I think I'll remove the
calipers and try to drill the bleeder out. If I drill it with a bit about
75% of the OD of the bleeder it'll probably
John wrote:when you pump it you throw the pump into WoT and it
starts dumping lots of fuel
As you say - that's the reason for not touching the accelerator pedal - not
only do you get all that fuel in the chamber - it's very *cold* fuel to
boot!Which means the GPs have a bunch more fuel
ha ha ha, yeah, it's amazing what we can all come up with, an hour after
dinner, on a Sunday evening, with broken parts all around us in the
driveway, and we need the car for tomorrow morning for work. :-) More
interesting, or sould I say entertaining, would be not to read about the
fixes, but
2 comments -
a few years ago (5 IIRC) a huge collection of Dusenburgs were found in NC
and a large colection of Porsche 356s were stached away on a piece of land
in Fla. I believe the Porsches were sold by the owners son or something -
and he sold many thru Porsche club functions - thankfully
On Sun, 7 Jan 2007 17:21:48 -0500 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My wife can drive her pickup or the 240D to work if need be.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
Is this the '91 300D you're having so much trouble with?
Craig
On Jan 7, 2007, at 9:53 AM, Chris Kueny wrote:
The Lister engines available from India today use no spark. ...
See www.utterpower.comfor all the details.
Chris K
Cayce, SC
After clocking 60 hours of gas generator use in dec here in the
pacific NW I look at the various generator
LarryT wrote:
I believe it happens like this - you turn the key, a spritz of fuel is
injected to the proper cylinders, concurrently, the GPs start heating the
prechamber or cylinder depending on model...
Actually, at least in a mechanical-injection engine, no fuel is going to
get spritzed
Check on the internet to see if you can order them somewhere. When I
bought mine I got the part number off a website and had a local radio
shop order them for me. For the 91-93 cars using the alpine CD changer,
you have to get 2 PIE adaptors, and get a special interface box at the
dealer. I
Ooohh look at that cancerous rust. And it seems so nice above he high
water mark...
What IS nice is the color matching of the dash to the upholstery.
On 1/6/07, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb
I happen to like the Sears Bias Ply tires and snow tires on
Here is a link to a place that sells the proper adaptors you need. Just
for FYI, you should be able to order them elsewhere. It also lists
which of the alpine changer are compatable, although most any of the 6
disk ones will work.
http://www.logjamelectronics.com/piembzealp.html
--
Kaleb
Oh yea, it also tells you the MB part number of the interface box you
need to order from Rusty.
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Here is a link to a place that sells the proper adaptors you need. Just
for FYI, you should be able to order them elsewhere. It also lists
which of the alpine changer
Sweet car but it was the basic, bottom of the line model. It will
only hold it's value if it isn't driven.
On 1/7/07, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Ebay Item # 260073393513
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/45k-ORIGINAL-MILES-PRICE-TO-SELL-THE-BEST
Slice through the fabric covering the nipple VERY carefully with one
of those retractable razor knives and peel it apart and off.
On 1/7/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I delayed in doing them on my 190D when they were merely seeping and then got
to do them when one fell off...
That
So it would follow that on a mechanical-injection engine, there is no
preheating of fuel, and so any fuel that enters as a result of pumping is as
cold as the fuel that enters without pumping.
I'm assuming that an 83 240D is a mechanical-injection engine.
And no, I'm still not an advocate of
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